That fuel pump would have been for carbureted engines. Though I don't think the 2.5 was ever carbureted in the YJ.

@Geonious

4 жыл бұрын

You're correct Chad. The YJ was never carbureted. But the 2.5L engine did have a carburetor (see below). I have seen carb kits from Omix and Weber made for the 83-88 2.5L CJ's and YJ's. Jeep 2.5L fuel systems: 1984-1985 One barrel carb 1986-1990 Throttle body injection (87 was the first year of the YJ) 1991-2002 Multi-point fuel injection

Just about to tear into a 2.5, thanks for the helpful video. Your comments show peeps educating you on errors, you handled that with grace. I have had pistons fall out, it was a newer engine that the ex sabotaged so it started self destruction but I caught it before any real damage. The top lip is a combination of carbon and where the rings wear the cylinder, if you are re using the pistons, poor boying it, try to never push one out the top, the rings can snap, remove the crank and pull them out the rear if they fit. One poor mechanic to another. The rings on three of those pistons where placed wrong, their placement facilitates quicker wear, they should be the side as the face gets the most wear and friction. The bottom ring is the oil ring, it facilitates lubricating the piston and is fed oil through the rod oil ports. The bearing wear allows oil to flow out at the bearings and not up to the piston, this is why those pistons were showing wear and tear. Great video and please keep it up, this will be my first jeep engine rebuild as I primarily work on flat 4 VW and Chevy small blocks, I needed a jeep course to see the tricks.

Im going to have to get me some sticky notes next time snapon truck comes by!

Son son son! Ive been a mechanic for a living for 42 years and after watching 2 minutes of your video I said to myself if he rebuilds this it will go knock knock BANG instantly on start up! Next time You need to get someone in the know to help and guide/help you doing this. Also not certain but looked like a crack on side of block and or Welch plug aka freeze plug leaking coolant. If im guessing you either gave up and got a rebuilt or carried it and had it done. Also most of the best mechanics I know never went to any school. They had a high level of mechanical ability and jumped in and started learning from growing up poor and a have to fix it need. Im pretty sure you have a youtube diploma Like I said make friends with a old timer in the know and learn.

@JeepSheepTV

3 жыл бұрын

If you pay attention to the series I am only taking apart the engine to show each component and where it lives. It would have cost the same to have it machined as it did to buy a long block assembly. This engine was never intended to run again and I was not rebuilding it. I have a group of experienced mentors that I go to often and they have been incredibly valuable to me. I have also learned a ton by jumping in an trying new projects like this one. The difference between me and others is that I film it and put myself out there in hopes to help someone else like me. As for a diploma, I have a bachelors in mechanical engineering from Iowa State University. I didn't know KZread was offering diplomas but if so I want one! I would have fewer student loans.

@dgc940

3 жыл бұрын

@@JeepSheepTV Yes I seen You bought a Amazon engine

Bro you are a true hero, working on a rebuild myself 1: cause poor and 2: had my 2001 TJ since 2002 and the engine was the last thing that I have not taken out and replaced. Your videos are a godsend and very informational. DO you have Venmo or cashapp? If so I have a lil gift for you.

@JeepSheepTV

3 жыл бұрын

I'm @Jeep-Sheep on venmo. I'm not shy about my financial needs for these projects but I want you to know that I am just as happy making these videos for free. I'm just glad to help. If you want something tangible you can always head over to jeepsheeptvstore.com and snag a neck gator or sticker. Thanks again! It's always nice to know I'm helping someone out.

The head and block are at different temperatures and that's why the head gasket restrict coolant flow

Just came across this. Do you know which part(s) were causing the knock?

@JeepSheepTV

Ай бұрын

pretty sure it was the lifters. See how the top end of the engine is completely dry, the lifters basically had no oil in them.

@drewdavid9672

Ай бұрын

@@JeepSheepTV thanks for the quick response! Did the noise quiet down when warm or was it there the whole time?

@JeepSheepTV

Ай бұрын

@@drewdavid9672 it was constant

it's painfully obvious that you are learning and not very knowledgeable, That's ok, you are doing great. However, let's clarify some nomenclature, @ 6:00 you start to refer to "main bearing caps" as cylinders. Also, order of operation is important. You should remove the connecting rod caps first, then remove the piston/connecting rods BEFORE the main bearing caps. I have never seen nor heard of a piston just falling out. you did good in pointing out putting parts back in the same location AND orientation.

@JeepSheepTV

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for understanding! Is there a reason why you do connecting rod caps first? It makes sense but If there is a specific reason that would be good to know. Also, I had an engines course in college where we had a lab that was taking apart and reassembling an engine. The lab paid no attention to any kind of protocol and was set up for a short amount of time. The engines reflected this. Parts were on upside down and so on. I had a little Saturn engine and when the caps were removed those pistons just fell right out. Thinking back... they didn't have rings anymore. Too many people had gotten frustrated from putting the pistons back in that they tossed the rings in the trash...

@scotte2815

4 жыл бұрын

@@JeepSheepTV, you would never see pistons fall out with rings installed, and the only time that would ever happen would be in an auto maint. class like the one you were in LOL As for the order of assembly/disassembly, you do not want the crankshaft to be unsecure while you are doing other things. on a different note; The bearings that you removed from the rod journals and mains are the modern split hardened steel type and are very common, but there was a time when such precision was not available. way back in the old days they used to pour Babbitt bearings (Babbitt is still used in some applications today) here's a link to how that was done kzread.info/dash/bejne/fHaAkrtsj9y3Z6w.html