Love your ability to build such complex machines in a simple wood shed using strings, bricks, etc to lay it all out.

@Rattus-Norvegicus

Жыл бұрын

Agreed, however I would like to see him get a nice shop. I think he has more than earned it, and I'd be curious what he could build with a little more room, possibly a chain driven car? Or a custom hauling trailer? Or perhaps a mini monster truck would be neat. Hell, I'd love for him to either upgrade the Grave Ninja, or build v2.0

@Doublejj55

Жыл бұрын

Very true underrated U tuber his time will come

@Iamdesignproducts

Жыл бұрын

Facts it's amazing, he's got it down to a science lol

@MaNNeRz91

Жыл бұрын

It bugs me when people have loads of room and don't use it productively. My neighbours have huge gardens and I have 1/4 the size. Most of their gardens are an overgrown mess. I'm crammed up in my little garden trying to do similar work on motorbikes and cars 😭😭😭 my neighbours don't deserve their garden space

@Rattus-Norvegicus

Жыл бұрын

@@MaNNeRz91 That is a pretty bold statement to say whether or not someone else deserves something because they don't use it the way you like. It's kinda like those people who complain that Chris doesn't drive his stuff fast enough, as if it's not his choice to drive it however he wants to. I'm not trying to be harsh but, do you get what I'm saying?

Been waiting all day for this. Best part of my Sunday's

It is impressive how well calibrated your eyeball is in aligning the tube bending, well done!

@SNIPERL0V3

Жыл бұрын

Looks like it, just a couple of tricks you dont see

About steer angle: you do not need so much steering angle, the CV joint gonna break under such angle (in full turn). Also, so much steering angle in application WITHOUT ANY DIFFERENTIAL is asking for broken axles, cv joints and chains. Put fat guards on those! :D

@la_plata3588

Жыл бұрын

In our crosskart group we have 1 guy with 140hp in a chain drive 4 wheel drive kart no problems. Chris has lockable front drive line and and his 2 speed slider so he can stop the power to the frontend

@EliteRock

Жыл бұрын

With the front drive disengaged and the hubs unlocked the shafts don't turn, I think the idea is just having a lot of lock for tight, slow manoeuvres (3-point turns etc'). Diffs aren't really needed for something that's intended for use almost entirely on loose surfaces (that's why Jeeps, Land Rovers et al have lockable diffs for mud, gravel, snow etc').

I think you should really reconsider putting the fuel tank in the rear. You’re going need the ballast up front to balance the weight. You’ll have room for both. Love your builds keep up the great work!!

@JH-tc3yu

Жыл бұрын

Agree, radiator should go in the rear above the engine. Fuel tank in the front

@Blurgamer17

Жыл бұрын

But on the flip side, having the fuel tank in the back makes the TT safer in a head-on collision. Perhaps there's another way we could see more ballast weight in the front?

@billhicksmcgee1181

Жыл бұрын

Put the tank and radiator in the rear, there's plenty of room.

Finally someone putting a Hayabusa engine in a buggy! I've been waiting what seems like a lifetime to see someone do that and I'm glad it's you since you build things so perfectly! This thing is gonna be so sick!

I think you should make your own sway bars for this project. Use larger arms for greater control. Hinge them at 90 degrees and place the bars in the middle of the frame, not under it, to improve ground clearance.

Appreciate the content You are one of the KZread channels that help inspire my boy and I to start our own KZread. Watching your videos helps keep us inspired thank you.

That’s a lot of chain. Going to be interesting to see how it works.

@fullmetaljacket7

Жыл бұрын

Noisy as fuck I bet lol but it'll work. He needs to realize he ain't building go karts anymore. That engine should be at the front, to say the least.

@ducttapeandwrenches

Жыл бұрын

@@fullmetaljacket7 why in the front? he'd still have to run the chain to the rear.

@stevejohnson6634

Жыл бұрын

Waste of engine potential, performances. Drive shafts, transaxle needed.

@fullmetaljacket7

Жыл бұрын

@@ducttapeandwrenches because first of all, trophy trucks have their engine at the front and second, trophy trucks are rear wheel drive only.

@ducttapeandwrenches

Жыл бұрын

​@@fullmetaljacket7 i get what you mean, i don't think he's trying to build it exactly like other trophy trucks though. wouldn't the 4wd have an advantage over rwd? i don't exactly know how you would set the weight on these things but i could see some steering disadvantages to the engine in the back

Need jack shaft half way so you have two small chains rather then one super long chain from front to back

Looks great! One thing is that Grind Hard Plumbing Co uses the tube frame for the engine coolant instead of running separate instead of having separate radiator hoses. It works well on their builds as far as I know and it only works with tube frames. Maybe that could work on this project well.

For the suspension you want your shock at 90° of the arm at full compression.

Nice build dude can’t wait to see the finished project.

I really like what you do, learn a lot from you, I'm looking forward to a new video, you deserve a lot of subscribers, I'm waiting for you to get your first million subscribers because you deserve it

You are so meticulous, I dig your attention to detail. This is going to be a neat machine when done. Keep it up! 😁

This might be the best one yet! Positiing of the engine is perfect. Care with overloading the rear though because you dont want it to be a wheelie machine. ❤️

Being able to lower the car to make it easier to get in is a cool idea. This also makes the vehicle interesting for older people.

It’s looking sweet buddy. Can’t wait too see you rip it.

As usual, fantastic work. I wish i had the room and the skills for this kind of thing! The only recommendation i would make on those rear swing arms is a stiffening bar between the outmost bearing and the cross brace. Your swing arms have no "triangle" reinforcing against the tension on the chain. That chain will pull with some serious force, and without any reinforcing you are going to get some flexing of the swing arms that will probably fatique that cross brace and snap it off. If you look down at the cross brace at 2:40, and imagine a serious tension force from the rear chain sprocket to the front chain sprocket, its going to "compress" those swing arms, and they will want to push the rear wheels "out". That will cause a bending force on that single brace you have about half way up. A single diagnonal brace from that existing brace to the outside axle bearing would be in compression under high acceleration and prevent that bending force.

for the side piping, you should make it a v looking shape. so its easier to get in and out. also will look better

Love the build so far! You may be too far into the process to make this change but most utv’s put the fuel tank and the battery under the seats. Obviously you would have to raise the seats 8-10” but this would give you more leg room and by making the cage a little taller it would give you more of a truck look.

Chris if you decide you want the doors you may want to look at a gull wing design with the hinge at the top. It would allow a sleek look but offer more head clearance when getting in. I think that would look cool on your rig.

Really enjoy how you have a "conversation" with the camera. Feels like I'm in the shed with ya.

i feel like the engine being more forward would be better for weight distribution no? either way i dig this project, coming along nicely. turbo that engine!

@ShaunHensley

Жыл бұрын

Yeah getting as much weight as possible to the center is always better

@bradley3549

Жыл бұрын

At least that boat anchor of a cast iron transmission will be in front of the axle.

Sure enjoy watching you do your builds.

I'd check your heim joints up front once you have turned the wheels. There is a good chance you will need to grind more out to keep it from binding. Another piece of advice, your main hoop behind the seats should be one continuous piece that you tie into with the harness bar and door bars

Great content mate, love your projects

I love your work. It’s sooo relaxing watching it. Thank you. ❤

Regarding the motor placement, the rotated angle has the front a bit high, you need to rotate the front down a touch so as to keep the oil level, level, the bottom of the sump will give you a good indication to the angle of the motor

Every time I watch your videos I think to myself how awesome it would be if you had a full size workshop with top of the line equipment. Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking your current shop but I believe you could benefit with a bigger shop. I can see you having a huge shop with employees working for you. Watching you create these offroad vehicles is great stuff!

@robert5

Жыл бұрын

He has the equipment that matters. lathe, mill plasma cutter welder and pretty nice versions at that.

really impressed by what you can build just in a small garage alone, respect!

I'm sure someone has already mentioned that you'll need to add a dry sump to replace your oil pan. Otherwise your engine will get starved for oil when you go around turns. Motorcycle engines aren't designed to corner while staying level. See SuperFastMatt's experience with his CBR1000 powered S600.

This things gonna be glorious when it’s done

With the point to put the bill stops id say it depends on what your planning on driving over, if it’s rocky terrain then keep it a little higher, if it’s dirt or sand or anything fine and loose then it can be lower, but id keep it where it is since it’s flat and your front is maxed out

All these comments telling you how you should change your design or make it look a certain way are funny. You have your own vision of how it should be and that’s awesome. If all the commenters want something that looks different they should build their own in their own style. I’m really enjoying seeing your creative process. ✌️

You have inspired me to be me and do what I love, fabrication, God promised us all a gift and your channel has reminded me of just that, so thank you...

I think you should move the engine as far forward as possible. You're going to have 300+ pounds cantilevered behind the springs/shocks, on a 3ft lever. You can always add a spare, if you need more weight. Can't take it off very easily.

This project got me excited to watch again, you do incredible work.. I’d only suggest to watch major fabrication shops in how they build ultra4 and trophy trucks, as well as sand rails, rock crawlers/bouncers. So on so fourth, keep it up man

I'd like to see the side bars on each side of seats bend down and up for easy getting in and out. Also put the fuel tank infront of the seats(center) for weight balance. Just my thoughts. You amaze me on how you are able to machine the parts that are custom and not available to purchase! Keep up the Great Work 👍

I love the tight tolerances of all your builds! Just amazing.

you could make a spindle that uses hinge joints in both directions, and voilá, unlimited suspension travel and unlimited steer angle.

Please I really do hope u add doors, I'm actually looking forward to seeing how you will pull it off👍

I think 4" at full compression will be fine.You won't be driving over speed bumps constantly.Rocks that size will be driven over slowly anyway,so keep up what you've pictured.It's Your build.Viewer input is great for suggestions,and critical info,but it's You who'll be driving.Some of the frame can carry coolant to the front so rubber won't pop in your face,or worse...

a lower floor during landing does indeed look cool, but it probably wouldnt feel so cool if you landed over something sticking up, like a pointy rock in the track, considering how low the seats are. just something to keep in mind, maybe some extra-thick steel beneath your seat.

Looking forward to the build great video thanks for your time

Hottub? More like a Hotrod.. you doubt yourself too much... u have great designs all like watching them come to life.

Thanks for filming again Chris. 👍😁

Seeing the frame that low makes me think it would be really cool if you set it up with air bags and long travel shocks instead of coilovers. Then you could air it down and drive around the parking lot with it laying on the ground

Love all the neighbor dudes in the comments. So your using that much chain? what about sway bars? Build a door. Bend the frame tubing... love that you do what you want man your work is incredible and i love the aspect of semi basic tools. Youve grown alot since I subscribed, exited to see your continuous growth!

Most offroad buggies and UTVs will have around 3-4 inches of clearance at full bump. One thing to consider is the squish of the tire sidewall and lug pattern for ground clearance, i also recommend a rounder tire like a BFG Km3 or Kr3, and Tensor DS/DSR tires for builds like these because they make the car ride that much better.

@hwinterr

Жыл бұрын

And you want more weight in the back to push COG rearward, it will help tons with suspension geometry because of instant centre and overcoming friction inside the shocks/bushings/rod ends/etc... So try and add as much weight reasonably to the back of the car too.

thanks for the videos , enjoying the build

The top rail part where it would be a door top you could bend it like a Jeep half door. That way it gives you easier access getting in and out, plus it won't look like a bathtub.

so glad youtube recommended me your channel the engineerings great!

I think you should remove the spring from the rear shock, collapse it, and mount it to the swing arm. Then mark the arc of possible mounting points for the upper mount, extend the suspension to full droop, and build the upper mount on the arc where it would hold the extended shock less than vertical at full droop.

Your getting better exponentially.

Excellent Progress ! I have no doubt this projects gonna be awesome 😎 ☮️

Just an idea Chris. If you use mountain bike air oil damped shocks for bump stops might work and save some money. Bit left of field though?

Grate design !!! Very professional job !!

Coming along nicely.

Can't wait to see what you do for the body.

I'd recommend to bend the bottom tube inward so your footwells would be a little smaller. Then bring the top bar down to the bottom one at an angle from the edge of the backrest to the front edge of the butt of the seat. That should make it look a little sleaker in the front

Great video! Love the project and thought behind it, Im studying mechanical engineering and this is the stuff that made me choose it.

Everybody needs to like and share all his videos I love his content I be waiting non stop keep checking his channel for new videos I need him to finish this project we need more

You could improve your off-road turning circle a lot if you use 'fiddler" brakes. A separate brake for the left side and right. But, you will need diffs for this. I have used this system very effectively with VW buggies.

Looking good. Keep up the good work. Don’t sacrifice the good for the perfect.

Love that tubing jig.

Love your content

@xmanthegreat749

Жыл бұрын

First comment

Keep up the good work

Sand the floor in ur shop and add some poly on top. Will help protect from spills and make it last alot longer.

The lowest point of the suspension travel should be where the frame won't hit the ground while sitting on rims (no tires). Realistically, you'll probably never see full compression with flat tires, but it's a good rule of thumb when designing a suspension.

Nice work like that you do all the machining buy your self rather then order something ... badass man

Chop the lower front corners off the frame behind the front wheels at an angle, that's where its going to grab rocks and get hammered by gravel flying off the tryes. Getting rid of that sharp corner will divert the debris down and help it look less like a cherry picker cage. You dont need that much foot space.

I had a thought about this but you are making it reality. Very cool

I just got done watching your last video. A build based on a small car engine would be really cool. You could do a lot by making a light weight offroad vehicle with just an economy car engine. If you keep the weight down you will still have a really fast car built with a cheap engine and cheap parts. If you start with the engine from a front wheel drive car you can build something mide-engine/rear wheel drive. You could even use the same chain driven swing arm that you have here. If you want something AWD you can use a subaru drive train with the engine in the front (the default setup in the car), middle (with chain drives to the rear wheels) or rear (with CV axles). There is a lot of cool stuff you can make starting with smaller displacement car engines.

You should make the back Bar have a driver and passenger hoop To protect your head in the event of a roll over and also where the hoops are you can mount the shock It will give you a better angle and it will give you something to mount off of

Airbag that way you can lift and lower it with the touch of a button. Really taking shape, nice.

@camoking5059

Жыл бұрын

I 100% agree

Keep going and still watching till you finish it 😎 bro…from Paris

loved your video man hope you have a great day

You could try the radiator above the engine with fans like trophy trucks and have the gas tank in the front

I would consider making the two front upright bars a little shorter so the side bars sloped down some, I think that would help with the boxy look you’re talking about. Great work and content.

You’re such a great fabricator so I really have no reason to second guess your ideas but I think it will hurt like hell when you bottom out to the ground at high speeds. Food for thought my guy.

If you do add doors, you should use Heim joints for the hinges. That way you'll have spares if you do break one of the modified suspension joints in the back country.

The frame is looking very much like a NASCAR chassis!

This things gonna be badass

DV8 sells air bump stops for a bit less money. might be worth checking out. also, if you compare the ground clearance vs suspension travel on even some of the new sxs's, you'll see that the travel is more than the ground clearance. this allows the wheels to travel farther up than the frame allowing them to soak up the bumps better in turns. you can definitely have the rear tires travel farther upwards.

I’ve never really got how big this project is going to be. But now that the engine is on…damn. A fricking hayabusha engine and it looks so small on it.

i love the build so far dawg

Been looking forward to this moment

You could lay the rad back towards you slightly and then that would allow you to build ducts down from the rad to push hot air out the bottom and the build the gas tank to essentially fit “behind” where the dash area would be so basically above where your feet would be down in the foot well

Its a big difference in building it with or without doors in structural way,frame must be much stronger when you add doors

You want about 4inchs of ground clearance minimum. If you can afford it don’t skimp on shocks. Love the build mate 👍🇦🇺🤙

Would put the seating a bit more forward and bring the seats up off the floor some, also give the shoulder rail a slight bend at the front to make it look like a window would go there when your done or a net to get in and out, will give you more of a truck look and not a tub like you said, also you legs won't be fully extended, causing your blood to not circulate while on a long ride, also helps with your back. It will move your body weight more toward the middle since you have so much weight in the back already so cool you do this out of an idea in your head coming along so great!! I never miss a build! Little side note: they make mini trophy trucks for younger kids/teens who want to get into racing, I think it would help you to look at some of those.

Looking good bro 👍🏻

love the content keep it up

Holy crap, did you just stop that grinder disk with your bare hands at the beginning?? 😬 Ballsy af.... I would have definitely cut off another one of my fingers knowing my luck 😂🤷‍♂️ Respect 🙌

Looks good.

Looking good bud

Buy the locked off-road bump stops! I assure you they are the best choice for this project!

It's definitely very square. Ide like to see it swooping and all slick just like a big bouncer

love this series. but i REALLY think you should move the motor as forward as you can. would help weight distibution and performance alot. also will reduce the leverage on the shocks preventing them from bottoming and kicking the rear up as bad over big jumps.