I absolutely love my Creality CR6 SE ....I have done literally hundreds of prints and it has never put a foot wrong inc the strain gauge leveling and the print quality is fantastic. I upgraded the noisy fans to quiet Noctua ones and fitted a magnetic flexy bed but even fully stock it worked great. The regularly updated "community" firmware is also worth installing as the screen aesthetics are much improved and there is lots of extra functionality, and there is great support for it on the FB group......I don't regret buying it for a minute.

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

That’s for sharing. Hearing good things from my viewers about the CR6.

@rt82644

2 жыл бұрын

Second that on the cr6 se. Mine is my goto printer

@patrikmoller3643

2 жыл бұрын

I have a CR6 since almost a year now and so far it's the best printer I've ever had and I've gone through a bunch, even more high end such as BCN3D Sigma The reasons I chose the CR6 over an Ender 3 is dual Z motors, the ABL and firmly mounted bed because I where sick of having beds that didn't behave, 24V power system and a good community around the printer which I learned with my Wanhao printers are essential I where actually considering a Prusa but I found the CR6 after recommendations and after the experience I've had with this machine I'm glad I didn't get the Prusa, I'm sure it's a good machine but just to have the build volume of the CR6 over the Mk3 makes me happy with my choice The Community firmware make wonders for the CR6 and the machine get significantly better with if installed but another must is to calibrate the strain gauge, I had great issues with my bed leveling but it turned out the adjuster pot on the control board had broken meaning the strain gauge triggered at about 2500g of force, with a new board I have it set to about 160g I think and get perfect first layer all over the bed. I have upgraded the hotend but that something I do to all printers with ptfe lines hotends since I print mostly petg and other plastics at temps above 240C, and as mentioned above, the fans are noisy so they have been replaced, again nothing unique for this machine. I really think you should try a CR6 for yourself, to an in-depth test with Community firmware and calibrated strain gauge to see for yourself

@wilsongis

2 жыл бұрын

I got my CR6 S via Kickstarter. I did have the issues that required me to change out the switch (Creality sent it free) besides that issue the CR6 is my best printer. It prints with better quality that my Siderwinder X1.

@AkiraFurball

2 жыл бұрын

@@patrikmoller3643 Is it a 32 bit board, silent?

Awesome video, Irv! You are very good at explaining the tech for the average person while also not alienating your 3D print enthusiast brethren. So far, love your channel and videos. I'm looking for my next 3D printer, and will likely purchase a Creality. Thanks for the honest opinions and insights!

Excellent video! Thanks very much for your time and effort to help us with the technology that we use!!

Thanks for the video, I bought a Ender 6 on sale about two moths ago. My first 3d printer. Very happy with it so far. Chose it for the sturdy corexy and easy bltouch installation. Bltouch is basically plug and play with creality firmware support an reserved space in the printer head. Can print at impressive speeds without any noticeable quality loss (original equipment and pla). Only downside till now is third party support. Where almost all third party manufactures have out of the box ready to install products for ender 5 i had to look for or adjust solutions for my ender 6. So the magnetic printbed is 5 mm bigger then is needs to be. The third party direct extruder an hotend i wanted to expand on filament possibilities was a bit of a search.

I think the biggest advantage of Creality is availability with reasonable shipping prices. Shipping a Prusa MK3 to Israel cost almost as much as an Ender 3 ($200 just for shipping). Not to mention waiting a few months for one to become available. I’d love to get a Prusa, but I can get 4 Creality printers for the price. Maybe when the XL comes out (if it ever happens) I’ll rethink it.

@MrBassard

2 жыл бұрын

The shipping cost is the worst part of the prusa printers but I have to say that my prusa mini sees far more print time than my ender 3

@woodwaker1

2 жыл бұрын

I have to agree with the lead time and shipping. I purchased a Rat Rig in May was delivered in July and just got it printing. (not an easy kit, but worth it). The shipping was about $200-250 from Portugal and 8 week lead time. My 4 Ender 5s came within a few days of ordering and shipping was very reasonable

@oleurgast730

2 жыл бұрын

While I like my original Prusa mk3s, the Fystec clones are pretty much as good as the original (exept for the bearings). So if you already have access to a printer to print the plastic parts, you might consider it as alternative.

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

@Barak H I agree the Creality distribution network is excellent. I have a Prusa i3 MK3 which I used for a long time as my go-to printer for fast prints I needed for this channel. In general, I find my direct extruder printers are capable of the highest speed. This does go against the argument that the extra weight on the hot end is a problem but it works for me. Since upgrading my Ender 5 with a Micro Swiss direct extruder and all-metal hot end this has become my go-to printer. The Prusa extruder works well but with all of the small 3d printed parts, it can be difficult to work on. In the Micro Swiss design, the extruder dual gears are right in the open and extremely easy to tune and maintain.

@barakrl

2 жыл бұрын

@@MakeWithTech but that’s kind of the point isn’t it? While the Prusas are great, it’s much easier and cheaper to buy a Creality printer and mod it to something greater than a Prusa. I believe the smart people at Prusa know that as well and that’s part of their shift to print farms since the Chinese market can’t/don’t really compete on the customer services side. I’d still be happy to see a core XY Prusa XL thought.

Great summary!

I enjoy your videos. I retired a few years ago and started playing around again with my 3D printer. I bought it in 2016 online from HIC Technology (also identified as HICTOP). The printer is identified as Part Number 3DP08. It was a full assemble which was quite challenging, but worth the effort. I had not done anything like it since completing my last Heath Kit project, an 8 digit desk calculator that I used when taking my Professional Engineering exam in 1971. I was amazed that after sitting idle for 3 or so years, the printer fired right up and completed a print. My problem is trying to decide if I should consider various upgrades to this device or consider a new printer. It is difficult to attempt to upgrade not really knowing about the status of the control system, if the firmware could/should be updated, if I should try to update the printer head, the build plate, or any other components. I connect with octo-print that I have updated and assume the printer settings are a generic PLA printer. I am not sure what name-brand printer it was designed to emulate. I can not even estimate how many prints I have completed after printing numerous cats, dogs, foxes, etc. while entertaining my grandchildren! Now I'm using it to print enclosures for various raspberry pi configurations (designed after learning just enough in Easy Cad). What are your thoughts? Frank Stevenson

Very informative and enjoyable video. Thank you!

I like this style video where a subject is discussed more in depth. And to those who think this is going too slowly, yootoop have a feature that enables you to watch a video at a greater speed. I like and sub now.

I've had my Ender 5 for nearly 2 years now. 'Tis an excellent machine!

I've had the Ender 3 pro... Had a problem with it (Later figured out that I was responsible) returned it and a month or so later, received some money and decided on the FLSUN QQ-S-Pro and have never regretted it. With Auto-level (one time only) and one-time height adjust, delta printer (fast printing) - Quick installation and more. I am sold on delta printers.

I never liked how the early 3d printers heavily used 3d printed parts in their construction. I think this was more to keep cost down in the early days when there were many little startups trying to bring 3d printers to market. While interesting I think the focus of the RepRap project on self replication was kind of a distraction from the goal of building the best quality 3d printer.

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

I agree

@Zellonous

Жыл бұрын

Print your own parts VS buy your own parts. How can that be bad?

great video, thanks. very comprehensive. I'm a hobbyist and own a, cr6 cr30 and 002 r , but the distinction between a hobbyist and consumer is sometimes marred. your video served to polarise this in an enjoyable and encompassing way. my bad grammar, sorry.

Love your video.

My mother always says: "Never point your bare finger at people who are dressed". But that's my mother. 😃 😃 😃

@pascalfust1035

2 жыл бұрын

Funny enough, it seems that we have the similar mom

I'm pretty new to this 3d printing thing but did a lot of research before jumping in. There was a lot of stuff I was nervous about due to all these channels out there pushing octoprint and similar ports, and honestly that almost kept me from getting into the hobby. I didn't want to always be sitting by this printer I just purchased watching and hoping that none of my prints would fail, due to me not being comfortable trying to set up octoprint. However the more I kept looking I ran across the creality box. Hands down an amazing little box for 18 bucks (what I paid on amazon). I kept watching the same youtubers that push octoprint reviewing this thing saying it was trash and that they couldn't get it to work lol. However smaller channels with no real subscriber base seamed to love it, so I got one. The set up was really easy and took me less than 5 min to set up. I then used an old Wyze cam I had laying around (you can get a wyze cam v3 for 23 bucks on Amazon) from my previous home security system, printed a mount to where I could attach it to my printer to view the prints if I was not home. So now not only can I slice a file from my phone but also away from my printer and monitor it from anywhere. Now, the creality cloud slicing is pretty basic I will admit that, but it works amazing for simple files. I would not recommend it for files that require custom supports, however just recently Cura added a creality cloud plug in, so now for my more difficult prints I can use my desktop to custom slice a file and sent it to the Creality Box without any TF cards. Another bug I ran into is if you use the creality box you cannot turn off your printer completely. What I mean by that is, if I finish a print and switch my manual power button on my ender 3 v2 and don't unplug the creality box from the printer not only will the screen to the printer remain on but shortly after an annoying siren from the printer will go off and an error message will be displayed as well. So to fix this I bought a cheap set of smart plugs (10 bucks on amazon) and plugged both the printer and creality box to them. After doing that I set up routines through Alexa to turn both my printer and creality box after a print was finished. So far it's all working great for me and it only cost me a total of 51 dollars which was a bit cheaper but a lot easier to set up and use than octoprint. So now I honestly love my smart printer lol.

Great vid

Great video Irv! Have a great visit! Looking at getting a CR-10S V2, your thoughts?

Got an Ender 3. I think it has to be the best value new thing I've ever bought. It's more than paid back the £160 it cost just in things I've made instead of buying.

Nice video- thanks. As a new 3d hobbyist (3 weeks in) my rude awakening was the amount of complexity in just getting a model created and ready to print. For some, support is key part of the hardware decision and lack of comment about support felt like a gap in the video content. I’m pretty happy with the Ender 3 v2 I just purchased but extruder drive pulley was defective and through that learned Creality support is a can of worms. Also and as you alluded to at this moment in Feb 2022 the end-to-end Creality ecosystem you talked about is pretty sketchy.

Just upgraded my CR10s pro v2 to a micro swiss DD. Only problem is the touch screen won't work if I used a compiled Marlin firmware to get more features.

I’m considering just getting the Ender Extender XL kit for my Ender 3. 400x400x500.

Micro Center stores in the US are running a special until 1 April 2022 with a coupon from them for an Ender 3 Pro V2 for $100 - the shelf price is $199 and the coupon for new MC customers is $100 off. You have to pick them up in person. I slapped it together and had it printing in less the 3 hours. It has much better printing than my Robo printer any Makerbot I ever used. For $100. Quite a bargain.

My Ultimaker 3 while at a higher price point than these does use a configuration much like the Ender 7. I believe it uses a capacitance type of sensor for the bed leveling, but it works very well and was the closest to "plug and play" fdm printer I've owned. I does print quite slow though. I love the Ender 3 v2 despite a few glitches.

love the glass plate and have used only blue tape with no problems

I always say: if you want to tinker and mod, buy a creality. If you want to print, buy a Prusa.

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

I agree to a point. However in many ways Prusa is falling behind. The primary advantage of Prusa is the support and direct extrusion.

@clearviewproducts

2 жыл бұрын

@@MakeWithTech now that I know more, I'm tempted to buy and mod an ender. It actually sounds like a challenge, but I use this for business. Trying not to work extra over here.😆👍

My first 3D Printer was a Robo3D R1+

Good video! I’m having issues with getting the Creality direct drive and the CR touch working. One very blurry picture shows the CR touch running directly off the direct drive and the multi stranded cable for the drive does have a section for the CR touch, but I have not found a connection for that. I’ve also lost the Z axis control. Nothing has been posted on KZread for the combination of the Creality direct drive and the CR touch.

love my ender 5 pro and the creality software is easy to use, I wish you could go back wards form gcode to stl to resize

Thank you, sir, for another excellent video. But you missed one important printer for those seeking a larger print volume at an economical price: The Ender 3 Max. For those who don't know, the Ender 3 Max is like an upsized, or Maximized, Ender 3 Pro. It has a build volume of 300x300x340mm, comes with a "silent" main board (silent on the X, Y, and E, but for some reason not on the Z), a metal extruder, yellow upgraded bed springs, and a glass build plate. I believe it was released in 2020, I got mine in spring of 2021. As much as I enjoyed my Ender 3 Pro, which I gifted to my uncle and nephew for them to tinker with and learn from, I prefer the Ender 3 Max for the greater build volume, it's a perfect size between the Ender 3 Pro and the Ender 5 Plus. I now have an Ender 5 Plus that I'm tinkering with, and a base Ender 5 waiting for Christmas, the latter on which I plan to do a CoreXY Linear Rail mod and install an e3 mini out of the box. Getting the bulk of the "upgrade" parts from AliExpress, it was cheaper to get a base Ender 5 and upgrade it myself than to get the Ender 5 Pro that was already upgraded to an extent. I love tinkering with these machines and finding ways to improve them as much as I love the things I print.

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

You are correct I missed the Ender 3 Max. However for a printer of that size I would prefer the Ender 5 Plus which at 350 x 350 x 400 mm is a bit larger. This is another example of why Creality needs to prune their family of printer down to a reasonable count.

@serinfel

2 жыл бұрын

@@MakeWithTech Agreed, absolutely the 5 and 5 Plus are far superior machines, specifically for their form factor. At the time I purchased the Ender 3 Max, however, the 5 Plus was out of my price range at almost $600, whereas the 3 Max hit the midway point at around $350 and I didn't have to modify my Ender 3 Pro with an Extender kit. While there is more rigidity and stability in the 5 series, the 3 series, including the Max, remain in that economy-price-friendly range. Thank you, sir, for the reply, I wasn't expecting it. And thanks again for the excellent content. I prefer your content over others because not only do you come off friendly and easy going, you are easier to follow and actually learn from.

Hi Irv, my daughter, who is the one who got me into 3d printing (at 65 btw), also turned me on to your channel. It has been very helpful. Thanks for your work. As to Creality printers, I bought my first printer, an Ender 6, used a few months ago. Buying it used was probably a mistake as I found out the person we bought it from had run it pretty hard, but I have been slowly repairing things as I learn how. So here is my issue with Creality, at least the Ender 6. It seems their engineers made a few strange choices, primarily the idea of saving eeprom settings on an SD card. This has caused me a myriad of problems as sometimes the file will corrupt or simply not update or save. In fact, last week, I had to put the thing in my computer and do a disk repair on it so that it could get back to the eeprom.dat file on the card. Why in the world did they not design their board with a true eeprom chip that would save the settings? That isn't even my real question, though. I am thinking of actually replacing the Ender 6 with something and I might consider an Ender 5 plus, or even a 7, but I want to know two things: Do you still have to store settings changes on an SD card and can you adjust the z axis any closer than .1mm (that has been a big issue on the 6 with trying to get the proper amount of squish for me, even with a bltouch installed). The SD card problem is the more important one to me though. Again, thanks for your excellent work!

@AkiraFurball

2 жыл бұрын

IT HAS EEPROM SUPPORT ALREADY!!!!! They just cose to not bother enabling it in the marlin firmware, all you need do is delete 2 backslashes before compiling it and it fully supports save to EEPROM... It is nothing short of mindboggling incompetence!!!!

@AkiraFurball

2 жыл бұрын

Likewise the Z-probe offset babystepping in 0.025mm.. they chose not to enable it in marlin, its already there and implemented perfectly! I just learned how to compile marlin, its not that difficult once you actually get into it, and there is a mirriad of features they just did not bother to enable.. Bed corner levelling assistant being one.. makes initial tramming of the bed a breeze, its built right into the firmware, and they did not enable it!!!!

@krukhlis

2 жыл бұрын

Just use the real Marlin2 firmware and configure it for your taste. Creality firmware is always outdated and buggy fork of the original Marlin2. Regardless if it's Ender3, Ender5 or any other Creality printer board.

@AkiraFurball

2 жыл бұрын

@@krukhlis The sad thing is its not a fork, its stock marlin, but they CHOOSE to disable features that everyone needs like thermal protection, eeprom support, bed level assistant and much more.. And then enable completely useless things like power outage, if the power is out for any length of time, or you do not resume print within a minute or 2 the bed cools and the print pops off anyway! SMDH

Irv, great video. I was asked by a friend what printer they should get for their teenager for Christmas. I spent a lot of time assembling a list of Creality printers with pros and cons. I should have waited a day. Now I can forward this video so they can watch an expert say the same thing. The Creality brand is like Ford or GM, you will get something that has a lot of community support and parts availability. I have 3 Ender 5 printers and 1 Ender 5 Plus, all extensively modified. I just finished a Rat Rig and am now trying to keep them all busy. Thanks for all that you do for the community

@oleurgast730

2 жыл бұрын

At the moment the CR-200B is extremly cheap on the offical store (about 330$) - more than $100 less than on Aliexpress or other sites. Fully enclosure, ready to use (no assembly required). Able to print ABS and ASA. Some room for improvement (Extruder (design for orbiter on Thingiverse), Full metal hotend, ABL, silent fans) but printing well from stock. Just the right printer to start into 3d printing without frustration on a low budget while still be able to get into tinkering on the printer yourself.

You should try a CR-30 and make a bed leveling video. There are people still having issues with it. Also speed - the NAK3D profile goes really slow. I've had some success at 200% feedrate once it gets the first 30min to 1 hour done. 250% comes out as ramen. Slicing at a 45 degree angle is its own challenge.

Nowhere did you comment upon Creality Quality Control (QC). In my experience and observation the QC is appalling and you should NOT buy a Creality printer. At least not an Ender 3V2 (E3V2). I purchased one of the these, and the first thing I noticed when I took the base assembly out of the box was that the Y axis rollers had been done up so tight that there was a large NOTCH in the movement approximately every 70mm. This was due to that fact that overtightening had resulted in flats being put onto the rollers. These flats came round every rotation (equivalent to 70 mm of travel..do the maths pi D = circumference = 70mm. Gives approx. 22mm wheel dia.) giving a very large jerk or resistance in the movement travel. I was so disgusted that it all went back into the box and it just sits there. I have contacted Creality and they don't want to know. Research on the web will also show that the controller card shipped with the E3V2 has overheating problems which often results in level shifts as you print your object. I don't know about the electronics but there is a cooling fan on the controller but there is no exhaust for the air to come out, so effectively no cooling.

@AkiraFurball

2 жыл бұрын

Flats on bed wheels probably accounts for a lot of the levelling issues people have.. Once the bed wheels have deformed the bed will cycle up and down with the deformation making it near impossible to get a good first layer over the whole bed.. My ender 3 max the wheels were so tight i had to replace them all.. also the vertical frame was 2.2mm out of parallel which is so uncommon that there is a fix shim posted on thingiverse! Quality control obviously has some odd translation which mean comes to "Ship out any old shite" in Chinese..

Have a nice trip 😊

I was close to getting an ender 5 plus. Decided instead to get a Tronxy X5SA pro. Absolutely no regrets. I already have 2 other creality machines and whilst their quality is decent they still need lots of modding to get good quality prints. So if you're doing that anyway.... the cost of the X5SA Pro + skr 1.4 + Hemera was still cheaper than the ender 5 plus.

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing. For many of my viewers the size of the Creality support network made up of users/owners all over the Internet provides needed assistance with their machines. I love replacing control boards, hot ends, etc., but that may not be for everyone. This is why the Plus and Pro models are a good fit for these people since they come with upgraded components right from Creality. Sure these users could spend $1000 for an assembled Prusa but the high end Creality models provide a lot more printer for less money.

@Festivejelly

2 жыл бұрын

@@MakeWithTech Absolutely you hit the nail on the head there. Creality offers that middle ground, but to be honest I have a Mk3s and my Ender 5 pro produces just as good prints...most of the time actually better as it doesnt have a moving bed. I would however encourage people to get tinkering and learn about the printers. The creality machines these days come with decent control boards but it wasnt always that way. I think when people start to own multiple printers thats when they get a bit more adventurous and start modding a bit more because they still have machines to fall back on. Either way great video keep up the good work.

I have a lot of 3d printers. I don't usually buy budget printers cause you end up spending heaps getting them right anyway. I recently bought the Ender 6 and have had more problems than any other printer I own. I converted the horrible bowden extruder and replaced it with a Biqu H2 direct drive running Octoprint. Just starting to get it dialled in and getting half decent prints.

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing.

@kuman64

2 жыл бұрын

If you have many 3d printer, can u suggest a great printer under 1000$ with bigger size build bed?

How do you feel about the anat printers

I'd say yes, I bought an Ender 5 plus as my first and out of the box it had issues with printing. Bed levelling is harder due to the size of the bed and not being technically minded at all I've replaced the motherboard, heater block, heater cartridge, Tubing, Extruders, Stepper motors. I know the thing inside out now and I'm not even 2 months in. I say that to say this; get your feet wet with an Ender to become more experience more quickly.

Exelent videi. like every time. The CR-B200 seam to be missing on your list. While it is a quite smal printer, it might be the fastest design. It does not use CoreXY but the more superior Crossing Rods design (aka as "Ultimaker Style"). While on CoreXY you move the x-Axis in y direction, with the x-axis often made by an aluminium profile and a limear rail, a heavy moving mass, Crossing Rod used two fixed guides for each x and y. Between the two carriages of an axis there is a rod (Ultimaker II uses two 6mm rods, CR-B200 two 8mm rods if I remember correctly). So moving mass in y-direction is much less weight than on a CoreXY. The printhead sits on the crossing of theese two rods. Depending on the size of your printer you might simply change the steel rods to carbon fibre rods or to (bigger) carbon fibre tubes (both using Igus bushings of course). For a direct drive extruder you might use two rods in parallel on one axis to make it more stable (double crossing rod design). So much more acelleration is possible on a crossing rod kinematic. Also you can not scale up the CoreXY design easy. I just bought an Jennyprinter 650. It has a 650by650by600mm³ build volume and is based on a voron 2.4 design with some changes. While its parts seem to be a decent quality (have not assembled it fully now, may take some time) you clearly see the downside of using a CoreXY design in an instant. A x-axis 20by20 with a linear eail, about 80cm long - this have a lot of weight. I am pretty sure the acceleration would not be more as possible on an Ender 3... In the long term, changing to a double crossing rod design with 20mm carbon tubes and Igus bushings seem to be mandantory. If this new super-sized printer hadn't kill out my budget, I definitly would try a CR-B200. I am very happy Creality going to crossing rod design. I hope they will continue this way and do bigger printers with this design too. It is so much superior to CoreXY in an engeneering sense: Less moving weight, you can build it staticly contrained (not overconstrained like an CoreXY), not so long belts, less calculations needed (it is strictly cartesian)... Never understand the hype about CoreXY at all, as the "advantages" of CoreXY only aply in comparision to bed-slingers and "classic" cubes (with x-motor on the x-axis, like on the Ender 5). Compared to Crossing rod, CoreXY has not a single advantage (beside you can organize cabling more easy with cable chains).

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

Good point. I did miss that one.

@oleurgast730

2 жыл бұрын

@@MakeWithTech Beside my budget being a bit low at the moment, I just ordered the CR-200B now. It was less than 300€ (less than 330$US) including shipping and taxes, so I could not resist. It is ready2use. Fully enclosured. You can print ABS/ASA. While I might do some mods (ABL, spring steel bed, Orbiter extruder, Berd-Air, Carbon rods, Klipper) later, the results other youtubers show with stock configuration are quite impressive (but relativly low speed due to stock feeder and long bowden). I simply can not understand anyone considering an Ender 3 v2 as this printer is available for only a few bucks more. Sadly the low price tag in the offical store might indicate an early end of production... (it's about more than 100 bucks less there than on Aliexpress). P.S.: also no CR-30 in your list also. But thats totally O.K., as you focus on printers for beginners - and the CR-30 ist anything but beginner-friendly ;-)

@oleurgast730

2 жыл бұрын

@Lassi Kinnunen 81 Whats the point in 45° rotation? No advantage in itself. Anyone counting it as an advantage have not under stand basic mechanical principles. Its just the way CoreXY works. It has no advantage in acceleration nor speed nor weight. It even has a disadvantage: If both belts do not have exactly the same tension, the directions are not perpendicular anymore... Also CrossingRod does not mean you have to use 6mm steel rods like Ultimaker does (of course those can not carry a lot of weight without bending). On large printers simply use carbon tubes with a large diameter. The problem is not the kinematic but the prize. One precise Igus bushing with 16mm inside diameter wich has a aluminium housing integrated (prepressed) alone cost about 50$. High precise carbon fibre tubes are also not made in mass production. You can either spending days with extreme fine sanding to make a tube precise or pay a fortune to let it be custom build it. That seem to be the reason why the best video I found on this topic shows 90° rotated crossing linear rails instead of using rods: kzread.info/dash/bejne/faxouMizg8K8ZsY.html . While it do not use rods but linear rails, you can clearly see the advantages of the kinematic: Short belts and no redirecting forces by the belt - so the linear rods can be rotated 90° and be used without support. Same moving mass in both x and y (while on CoreXY the moving mass limiting acceleration is in y-direction) I just got a Jennyprinter 650. It is based on the Voron 2.4, so CoreXY. The weight of a 75cm 2020 profile and the linear rail simply is insane high; thats a quite high moving mass in x... Two 30mm carbon fibre tubes would weight a fraction, but even using 2 crossing linear rails would reduce the moving mass by 40% Also at theese sizes different temperature expansion of different materials mater. On bigger size even the steel linear rail mounted on an aluminium profile can cause issues in a heated chamber. CoreXY is always overconsteained (have to work against the force of redirecting the belt on the joiners) . On CrossingRod you can fix the carrying rods on one side and use a bushing on the other side. So thermal expansion on the rod does not create any tension. This would even work using linear rails (use a second carriage to mount the rail on one end) Crossing rod definitly is the superior design. But of course a well build CoreXY is better than a bad designed CrossingRod (6mm axis...). There is a big hen-egg problem: As nobody build fast CrossingRod in big size in series, components are hard to get and high price. As they are high price and hard to get, nobody build it, as the compromise "CoreXY" is cheap and easy to get.

@oleurgast730

2 жыл бұрын

@Lassi Kinnunen 81 The often missed point with two motors working together is a rotated mass is also to be a- and decellerated. Thats actually the second point there I discovered the disadvantage of the Jennyprinter 650: xy1 and xy2: extremly heavy motors. While the weight of the outer part of a motor does not matter, the weight of axis and rotator does. It's a bit of a trap: If you scale up a printer, mass increases - and you have to add even more mass, to get the mass under control... For redisigning the Jennyprinter (but the kit has just arrived, I first will have to build it as intended - but reworking the dangerous 230V part first) for that reason I will use 2x and 2y motors (closed loop drivers to keep in sync) to spare the rotating axis normaly used to transfer rotation between both sides. Yes, one linear rail more for active movement + either two precise carbon tubes with bushings or 2 extra linear rails mounted 90°. Calling the Crossing Rod system superior is in an engeneering sense only, not in an economic sense... (in my opinion there is no economic sense in 3d printing as an hobby anyway). But as I was so mad to spend 2.4k€ for the Jenyprinter 650 already (Enclosure not included), theese costs are a drop of water on a hot stone anyways. Before I redesign the Jennyprinter I will first try the CR-200B. There is already a otbiter design on thingiverse, also I have 8mm carbon rods and Igus bushings (the expensive ones with aluminium, already pretensioned). As the 200B is much smaller than the Jennyprinter, it should work (I hope).

I received my Ender 5 pro about 2 weeks ago. The first few prints were ok. Then the problems started. The feeder started clicking and prints would just stop printing air. I searched the internet for solutions. I found that filament was blocking the end of the bowden tube was clogged. I attempted to clear it but I could not get the tube out. I do not all of parts names, but I found that the holder for the feeder and extruder had lost its spring so I replaced them. I also replaced the bowden tube. I leveled the bed again. Ran a test and now the plastic will not stick to the bed. As of right now I think that this printer is junk. When you buy something new you should not have to spend hours or days to get it working. This is very frustrating.

@jep0rox

2 жыл бұрын

I did exactly this and replaced my tube with a Capricorn, changed the extruder out for a metal one and then couldn't get anything to stick after using paper to find the z offset (I use a cr touch) turns out after leveling it with paper I just needed to push it into the bed even more, this is an ender 3 v2 but might also solve your issues

Is that mobile app secure? Meaning it is encrypted when using traffic over the internet? If it does that I mean. Edit: I see that many retailers for Creality near me (Norway) is all out of stock on almost all parts and upgrades for Ender printers. Will this be a lasting problem I guess would be my question?

Hello. Thank you for many videos about 3D printers. You did really teach me loads of stuff. Now Im at the point where Im trying Ender 3 max with v2 screen and Im trying to edit V2 software for it. So far so good but Im stuck with cr touch. Because ender 3 v2 have it positioned on the left and ender 3 max on the right so the sensor goes out from the build plate. Pretty please is there any chance u could help and point me to correct way to what to adjust. Thank you very much. Regards Martin

@felsinferguson1125

2 жыл бұрын

Am I safe in assuming you're compiling your own Marlin for it? If not, you ought to be. One of the things you'll need to adjust in your config files is the Z-Probe offset. Look up how to compile Marlin (You can get everything you need for the time it takes to download it) either here on KZread - There are, AT ABSOLUTE MINIMUM, a dozen good tutorials that can explain it far better than I can, and unlike me, can hand-hold you from start to finish if you need it. It ain't that hard

@mkcelectronics1152

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Thank you for the reply. Yes I was bulding on Jyers and I did figure the cr touch offset from the probe and did build the whole thing. But I did send the printer back because the bed was warped beyond any possible fix by sensor. I have the firmware ready for next time.

Hi Dr.Vax (Irv), I'm looking for a first 3d printer. I have a background in science and engineering, but I would say that my interest in 3d printing is somewhere between the hobby and enthusiast level. To be honest, I'd love a 3d printer that works as reliably as my 2d printer. I have a toddler at home and I'm eager to get him interested in creating, but I think I'd be better off with a fully enclosed printer with a. HEPA filter. The printer will be in our living space. I've been looking at the flashforge adventurer 4. Could you share your thoughts on this printer, and your recommendations?

@tookmyhandle2

2 жыл бұрын

@@doopydoopydoopy looks like that model is more than a thousand dollars more expensive... Unless I'm missing something?

@edwinvanderhulst7703

2 жыл бұрын

There are plenty people who made an enclosure for their 3D printers. I made one for my Ender 3 V2 for less then 100 euro's with two tables from Ikea (Lack), plexiglass and two cooling fans and home printed parts.

IS Creality Cloud a secure network that you have privacy on? Does the cloud censor prints? How does this apply to 3D printed firearms? How does this apply to projects & prototypes that are under a NDA?

I had tried the creality cloud and I was not impressed with it. I think it would have been easier to create a plugin for octoprint

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

As of now I agree the Creality Cloud is not complete. I am more interested in its potential for non-technical folks who want to use 3d printers.

@woodwaker1

2 жыл бұрын

I have switched all of my printers to Klipper with Fluidd as the front end. I have not missed Octoprint and have nothing in the cloud. I keep all of my files on my home server and can print even if the internet is down.

@simonarcay

2 жыл бұрын

@@MakeWithTech i love your vids. Helped me a lot. Have a good time with the family

I like building my own printers, Still prefer my SD Card to carry files to the printer, just wish that there was control software on a tablet size screen but the Amazon Fire tablet is not friendly for this

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing that you have had good experiences with the CR6.

@diggraph

2 жыл бұрын

You can use a Raspberry Pi with a 7" touchsceen running Octoprint (aka OctoPi in this Config). Highly recommended.

@diggraph

2 жыл бұрын

@tradde11 Yes I agree the touchscreen is a little unnecessary but I had one handy and it does let me start a print in OctopPrint when at the printer. The SD card slot has not been used since OctoPrint was installed ;-) I also use a smart switch and Tasmota to control power to the printer and the touchscreen gives me access to that as the actual switch is under a table. I also like to watch the start of a print but using the Pi camera is OK for that mostly.

I still say the ender 3 pro is the best value. I don’t think the updates on the v2 is with it. I do t need a color screen when I have octoptint. The belt tensioners just aren’t a big enough value.

Why didn’t you ,touch on the CR-10 V3?

I have been considering 3d printing for a retirement hobby for several months. I joined a couple of Ender 3 facebook groups to learn something about the Ender. The problems people have with their printers would put me off. The recommendations usually are, you need to upgrade this or that or buy some better attachment. Does an Ender 3 not work as you buy it?

@zombiehunter1152

2 жыл бұрын

Hey ken u want a printer, buy a ender 3 max, it’s so easy to put together. It took me around 10 to 20 mins to put mine together, then it was up and running, a ender 3 has a lot more parts to put together and for my first printer was abit overwhelming but once I got my ender 3 together I loved it and still do. I got my ender 3 max about 4 weeks ago and I love that printer more. The max is 300x300x340 , as for the ender 3 is 220x220x250. The max has silent board which is great for long prints and trust me if you have your printer in the house you want the silent board in it.

@krisknowlton5935

2 жыл бұрын

Ken, I've had my Ender 3 for almost three years now and haven't upgraded anything and it prints very well. I am also retired and have found it a good way to keep me out of bars. I also have found that the diode lasers are fun machines to work with. The learning curve is a bit higher with 3D printers than the lasers but both are very rewarding. Keep busy in your retirement, it will keep you alive.

@edwinvanderhulst7703

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Ken, indeed the Ender printers print great out of the box (with the normal adjustments you have to make). Only most people love to tinker (that's why they bought the printer to begin with) and the Ender printers are easy to tinker with. That is the reason why you find those stories.

Never I would use a Chinese Cloud! I don’t even use dropbox etc.. I run my own cloud on a Synology Nas instead. With an Octoprint installation and VPN I can do everything I want. Thanks for this informative video! It’s true, Prusa printers are really expensive. The main reason is, that they offer an excellent service, which is very costly. I have decided, that this is reason enough to spend the money. A good way to save money is, to buy a used one. They are fully assembled and cost about 700€.

I never have had a 3D printer, What about smell or flumes when it's printing ? note: (I live in a small condo).

@gzcwnk

2 жыл бұрын

PLA+ not really but use near an open window/well ventilated area. Others like ABS, smelly and best avoided. The most annoying thing is the sound/noise but newer use silent drivers so are a lot better.

@jakobhansen1396

2 жыл бұрын

Not an issue when using PLA or PETG, but an Ikea filter solves any worries. Open windows near the printer tends to make wonky parts

Hmm this video doesn't answer whether you should buy a Creality printer or a competitor's product. It's great that it goes through Creality history and products but doesn't answer the very question in the title.

Creality cloud sounds possibly invasive....i think i will stick with off line ender 3's and 5's.

Ooh. Now I’m curious where you’re at. If you happen to be in Israel let me know and I’ll buy you lunch!

Thought this was about printers

Opinion: Creality invented an online "teat" to get in the way of the (traditional?) origins of the 3D printing ecosystem. Yes, those permanently superglued to their mobile device might not give a damn, but the learning curve is what drives innovation. You have to lift a finger to learn, not just attach your life to another multinational company designing their permanent place in your life.

Where are you now Irv?

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

I am a global guy since I follow my 4 children and 13 grandchildren around the world. Our family started in the Midwest of America and now we are across America in the Midwest, east coast and southern coast along with 5 grandchildren, my daughter and son in law overseas. Specific locations are a family secret :-)

@LogicWheels

2 жыл бұрын

@@MakeWithTech Regarding the location, I completely understand. Thought you might had travelled to Europe. Enjoy your stay! :-)

You left out the Ender 3 Max

Trying to stick with him lol

No, because 3D Printers from Chinese brands have poor build quality, use cheap parts, and are difficult to update.

I did NOT buy a Glowfordge, and, now, I will NOT by a a Creality 3D printer, for exactly the same reason. I have no interest in China being able to turn off all the functionality of my printer, nor do I have any intention of giving my designs to them. PERIOD!

@woodwaker1

2 жыл бұрын

I agree with that and I like the printers as a base to modify, but have no interest in the cloud. I would have to get a cell phone to use it

screw creality apps

I bought an Ender 3 max as my first printer 6 weeks ago, while i expected teething problems there are things I, nor anyone else, should expect from a manufacturer.. First, the carborundum Glass bed started to fail after 3 days, nothing will stick to it now, and its an issue creality are aware of and have advised via their forum, cleaning them with IPA damages the coating which helps print stick to the carborundum glass, they admit this on the forum, and state that the bed should ONLY be cleaned with soap and water.. yet the manual and adverts still say clean with IPA before each print.. The vertical extrusions are out, and out by a huge 2.2mm, the bottom being 2.2mm close than the top.. Makes adjusting the wheels impossible as tension changes as the gantry moves up! Also accelerates wear on the already quite cheap and nasty wheels. This would be bad enough if it was a one off quality control issue, but given there is a printable fix on thingiverse to address it, and the 3Max is not nearly as common as the others in the range, its clearly a manufacturing defect they have not bothered to fix - and it would be extremely easy for them to fix it with a small plastic part. Dont start me on the firmare! I mean for crying out loud, the damn things save settings to unreliable SD cards which has also caused me a nightmare or two until I realised it was saving settings to the card and the card was getting corrupted, and why.. why did they specifically ignore the EEPROM support in the firmware, all they had to, or have to do is delete 2 backslashes in marlin header, its not like it is even costing them anything!!! they take the time to create a Creality bootscreen, and dont bother enabling EEPROM support or Bed levelling assistant which would benefit 99% of new owners right out of the box. I do still like the printer, I get good prints off it now, and I entered the fray with the intention of tinkering with it and learning the ins and outs, but for someone who is less "tech" minded these things are going to create extreme frustration and people abandoning the hobby because they cannot get a decent consistent output. It is just mind boggling that as a company they sit there knowing these issues exist, knowing that new users are going to be badly frustrated by them, and wont even address them even if the cost to them is absolutely ZERO! It stinks of a lack of respect for customers IMO

PLEASE use a dedicated microphone. This level of audio quality is no longer acceptable, especially in a channel of this type. Regards.

I love my Ender 5 Pro, but I'm absolutely not going to use some Chinese cloud service or mobile app. Creality maybe run by good people, but the the CCP is not.

God the whole lip smacking thing is crazy

I dont trust ccp

In 2021 bowden on FDM printers is literally dead. Direct Drive only! Also, Creality MK8-like extruders and hotendes are junk. With my farm of Creality printers the first thing I did after the purchase was to throw to the garbage bin these details and replace with something modern, TPU/Flex and high-temperatures composites compatible, lightweight and direct drive. Even chinease BMG clone for $15 installed as direct drive is 100 times better than bowden with Creality MK8-extruder.

Hey Dr Vax (Sorry old subscriber ) ... You forgot my CR10 V2 ... needs a bl touch ( bit tricky to flash the firmware but got it done with tm3d and an old windows laptop ... was not able to do on my Macbook with m1 chip and gave me months of headache during pandemic to get access to an old windows platform, but is easy if you have one laying around, reconfigured to a direct drive with a simple print and hack the all metal filament drive with a petsfang from Thingy-veurs . + an all metal hot end upgrade ( you only need to upgrade the heat breake Throat,) but it's fantastic if your up for a little upgrading. and super slicer for a slicer ...lol ... Do not use creality cloud!!!! it is CCP government affiliated and does not matter what they say your file will be scanned and assessed for governmental approval, as has been shown latly in social media , in,10 years, someone can take offence with something you have printed,(lola. bunny is persona non grata) in the past and use that against you ... you have been warned! don't wine in the future, that they are coming after you, if you dont stand up for others now!!! .. go with octoprint ... and stay off of the cloud for prints.