I was looking into a all metal direct extruder for the more demanding fillements on an ender 6. This helped my newbie behind a lot. Thank you for sharing your experience.

Velocity -> acceleration. Acceleration -> Jerk. Jerk is how quickly the acceleration changes. Acceleration is how hard you press the gas pedal. Jerk is how fast you change how hard you're pushing the gas pedal.

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the clarification.

I am thinking on a Voron Trident printer build but I was doubting about due to many comments about results compared to a Bowden and normal cartesian printer. This video helped me to decide whether build it or not but definitively I will. Thanks. Experience is when you get your hands dirty.

I had nothing but trouble with Bowen tube printing. I upgraded my CR10 to a direct drive Micro Swiss extruder and ALL of my troubles went away.

The cheapest and most important upgrade is replacing unidirectional press fits with bidirectional screw fits for the bowden tube. The cheap unidirectional will desintegrate and degrade your prints with debris clogging more and more.

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

Interesting

Hi, thanks for another great session. BTW, you may want to improve your understanding of JERK.. Jerk is to acceleration as acceleration is to velocity. That is, the first derivative of jerk is acceleration, and the second derivative of jerk (as well as the first derivative of acceleration) is velocity. Said differently, the jerk is the rate of acceleration of an acceleration. You have described jerk simply to be a negative acceleration (eg a deceleration) . Keep up the good work, look forward to you next video. -g2

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the clarification. I was looking for a non mathematical explanation but I may have missed the mark.

@backgammonbacon

2 жыл бұрын

You mean change of acceleration or "delta" of acceleration, acceleration has a specific meaning so acceleration of acceleration makes no sense. This isn't what jerk is anyway its just what step change in frequency you can send step signals to the stepper is i.e. 1 step per second can jump to 7 steps signals per second without needing to do the 2,3,4,5 and 6 in between.

I love your videos Irv, Thank you.

Irv, i suggest you pull the trigger and go full speed into the Make With Tech channel name. I dont see much leaving behind of the Dr. Vax channel name if you still say the words "Dr. Vax Channel" in every video. Im not a huge fan of the name change, but id rather you just own it than have two names. I watch your channel because the content is good, and i like your style. You could be called just about anything. Thanks for all the excellent content!

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

Good advice.

@jaygrafwallner

2 жыл бұрын

@@MakeWithTech i agree with the above commenter, im newer, so i have never known the old name, and im sure a lot of people are in the same boat. Maybe throw it in the description or something. Also youtube is nuts about vaccines and talking abouit them, would hate for the voice transcription catch "vax" and de-rank you video to some extent. How about a video printing the same object, somewhat challenging, on every printer you have, and comparing them all!!!

Just converted the CR10S pro v2 with micro swiss dd kit. It was almost a direct swap. I needed print a custom fan casing to include the bl touch. Lost 8mm of print space which I'm trying to figure out how to adjust the nozzle position back to the middle of the bed.

Beautiful comparison. The only thing that's put me off the Ender 5 is that a few reviews pointed out the lack of front lead screw(s). If you make a "dense" print - one that might use a whole kilo or more of filament - the lack of front support is reputed to make the bed droop at an increasing angle as it goes higher. Bed leveling is cancelled out, according to those accounts. It would be good to see some contemporary re-evaluations of that.

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

I added 3d printed supports to the front of my bed that work well. I cannot find the ones I used but these are close. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4425394 A great place to discuss this is at the MakeWithTech forum located at forum.makewithtech.com. At the free MakeWithTech forum/discussion group, you can also post images and examples of your work.

@user-sd9ky8le8k

2 жыл бұрын

It will, even without a heavy print. I have an ender 5 and it has this issue also when the printer does quick direction changes

I am not sure about the stock firmware, but if you compile Marlin 2.x yourself the Sample Config has the same settings as Cura sets it to. Also, in newer Marlin it uses Junction Deviation instead of classic Jerk. Do you know anything on calculating this? Thanks for a great video.

Upgrading my ender 5 plus to a direct drive after this. I constantly have to recalibrate my retraction settings with the Bowden setup. I believe with a better extruder on the Micro Swiss, it will give me a better print.

Great video as always 👍 The bed moves DOWN not up under printing at the Ender 5... Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

Yes correct. I starts at the top and moves down.

@EsotericArctos

2 жыл бұрын

If you use Z Hop it does go Up slightly as well. During a Z Hop it will drop down then go back up by the Z Hop distance. I believe this is what was mentioned in the video when going up and down was mentioned.

Ender5 still good for begginer in 2022 ?

Excellent video you inspired me to make this hobby and I can’t thank you enough 🙂

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words.

I have a printer I bought used and really dont know the brand name. It appears to be a clone of a prusa. It has a boden tube. One time I made a mistake and instead of putting in .3 mm for the first layer height I typed in 3. mm. When it started to print I noticed a horrible noise and the spool of filament was turning at mach speed. It was trying to extrude enough filament for a 3 mm layer height. By the time I got it shut down I had a pile of plastic about the size of a ping pong ball lol. This thing can extrude some serious filament in very short time.

Yes I have been eyeing up that micro swiss direct drive kit for my ender 5 plus. One thing I am confused about, if you are running direct drive shouldn't you get rid of all the bowden tube before the extruder? I see lots pf youtubers saying how much better DD is that Bowden yet there stil running a foot of bowden on their DD's??!?!?! Even though the extruder has more precise control of retracts aren't you still getting some of the negatives of Bowden setups such as increased drag on the filament particularly in retracts?

@Grimmwoldds

2 жыл бұрын

They don't have bowden tube before the extruder, it's just tubing( 8:20 ). They actually need it to prevent the filament from wandering away, kinking, or damaging itself bending around edges. Bowden tubes(Bowden mechanism) are a specific idea for transferring mechanical actuation along a cable contained within a tube(commonly used in bicycles and automobiles). Without the mechanical power transfer, it's not Bowden.

AWESOME! Just what I was looking for. I got a great deal on a QIDI X-Plus that needs some work but the filament track is terrible IMO. I am hoping Capricorn and a completely different filament/Capricorn route will smooth out the path. So my plan is to Capricorn with direct drive, i guess.

Another helpful and informative guide.

I just tried to find the upgraded control board and the th3d website seems to be gone

What 3D printer would already have all these upgrades while keeping the cost close to whatever the cost of the ender 5 would be with the upgrades. Prusa or QIDI x-max is rather expensive and not sure if it has the same updates like the Swiss extruder and all metal hot end, I do know it has the upgraded motherboard 32 bit arm but not fully automated leveling like you said the Prusa has?

How does a Prusa print so fast if it's a bed slinger? Evidently that isn't as big of a factor as you might think. It would appear that direct drive may be a big factor. Also, I've seen Ender 3 v2s with support brackets for the Z axis. Does that solve the rigidity issue?

Is there any advantage to a bed that moves on the horizontal? Should all 3D printers be designed so the bed moves vertically instead?

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

Excellent question. It might be less expensive to build but not sure.

@user-sd9ky8le8k

2 жыл бұрын

The advantage that I can see of the vertical bed over horizontal, is that in vertical config, the bed will move in only 1 direction during the print (if you dont use z hop), so you can print faster without affecting the quality (well it depends on the printer, ender 5 is the worst example possible). In horizontal bed config, the heavy bed moves back and forth, it will be affected by inertia, so you need to reduce the speed to have less pronounced quality issues.

great video, i learned a lot again.

Talking of all metal hotends and direct drives. I have an ender 3 pro and an ender 3 pro with ender extender 300xl kit installed. Both have gulfcoast robitics all metal hotends, duel z axis rods, and direct drive conversions reusing the stock parts (I do have metal extruder uprgades). I prefer to print with .8mm nozzles but have a .5mm installed on both. Both have 4.2.7 32bit boards also. Overall I am happy but I have an issue where I just can't get a good full extrusion at the start of a layer or after a retraction for 2-3 mm. I have played with all kinds of settings including speed, temp, flow rates, and prime flow. Do you or anyone recognize what may be happening here?

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

Try increasing the temperature to see if that helps. .8 mm nozzles require a lot of filament flow and your extruder may not be up to the job.

@gitss7367

2 жыл бұрын

@@MakeWithTech Thanks, It didn't matter when I had boden with Capricorn tubing. To go any higher I will need to follow your video on custom firmware. I should have mentioned I print in ABS and PetG. PetG doesn't seem to have the problem at all on one machine and reduced on the other machine. Thanks again.

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

You can determine if this is a extruder volume issue with a test. Try slowing down to 25-30mm per second and see what happens.

@gitss7367

2 жыл бұрын

@@MakeWithTech will do, thanks again. To be honest I have second guessed that I should have went MicroSwiss for my all metal hotends and direct extruder just for the tech support. Dialing this in is taking a bit, but the rest of the prints come out really good looking and very strong on functional parts

But a Bowden lightens your hot end allowing it to accelerate and decelerate faster.

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

True but in the case of the Ender 5 I did not find this to be an issue.

nice content TY for sharing

The bed assembly on ender 5 is bad and can cause more quality defects then ender 3's frame, it does not shake, its wiggles up and down . But once it is fixed or modified, yes, I would say that ender 5's frame+ z axis is better from quality/speed point of view.

Can you make a video on ultimaker S5 , there are no videos on it

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

I wish I could afford one. In addition I generally stick to FDM printers that use 1.75 diameter filament so I do not have to stock multiple types of filament.

You know what bud i dont know why i look through YT when i need a direct answere I should go straight to you, Thank you for taking your time to do this youv been helping me for a Year now with out ever askin for a dollar in return if theres any sort of support people like me can provide please say soo ive already shared with family and friend i feel like actually deserve more then a thank you In hate these young kids when they have their hand out a for copy and paste video/ Also Citizinz!! I like your style, Question? Does any of this improve print quality? Or just speed i have ender 5 im looking to upgrade towards quality 1st

Great informative video as always. I learnt something today :-) . Would changing the nozzle size to a 0.6mm size help in printer speeds?

@MakeWithTech

2 жыл бұрын

Yes. Because with a .6mm nozzle you would probably increase the layer height to .30 or even .34mm. With thicker layers you need less layers and your print completes faster. A great place to discuss this is at the MakeWithTech forum located at forum.makewithtech.com. At the free MakeWithTech forum/discussion group, you can also post images and examples of your work.

Ender 5 pro vs cr200b?

So, you can't really compare speed between the two, as the Ender 5 has been upgraded, massively, and the E3 V2 has just a BLTouch added, but they are both very different machines regardless, so...

Lesson learned: don't be A JERK.