Thanks for making this. That's the first I've seen anyone (besides myself) scanning film with a Leica M. I'm using the M-mount Macro Adaptor with my 35mm lens. It works okay, but I may check out that 85mm macro. Thanks again!

@aestheticcontrol

4 ай бұрын

It's definitely not the most ieal set up for scanning, but I wanted to keep everything in the M system for simplicity and the mechanical shutter release with a cable really can't be beat. I've considered an SL2, but haven't made any moves that direction. As for the 85mm macro, it's worth the low price point, but I wouldn't use it for much else than film scans.

Thanks for sharing your workflow. For my b&w work (HP5 asa @400 or @800) in 35mm I use a Pakon F135+ (until it breaks!), which brings I think even more speed to the scanning process (albeit sacrificing resolution to just 6mp, which is fine by me). For the 120 negatives I use camera scanning with a Sony A7R2 (43mp) and an Elmarit-r 60mm 2.8 in a copy stand with Valoi 360 setup, then NLP for the conversion (I don't do much there) and finally Affinity Photo for the real editing (shadows & highlight clipping, tone curves, dust removal/cloning, etc.). I am pretty satisfied with this setup for both formats. I love your new videos, please keep motivated ;-)

@aestheticcontrol

4 ай бұрын

Thank you! I've always heard good things about the speed of the Pakons, but never had the chance to use one! I'll keep my fingers crossed that it holds up for a long time for you

@manuelaguilar2175

4 ай бұрын

It’s been with me for 8 years now, hundreds of rolls scanned. These Pakons are tough beasts!

Really useful video! I also shoot HP5+ and use NLP. But why did you export to TIFF before working on the photos? Couldn't you just do all that on the originsl dng/whatever raws and then expert to JPG when it's all done?

@aestheticcontrol

4 ай бұрын

I think it's more so a mental hold over from working with TIFF scans for so many years. I like to do whatever NLP work then bake that look in to the exported TIFF and treat that as a starting point.

@Vincent171090

4 ай бұрын

Alrighty! Thanks dude@@aestheticcontrol

what is the name/model of the stand?

Can you talk more about your BW NLP preset for removing color cast? What exactly is happening when you select that preset?

@aestheticcontrol

4 ай бұрын

I just double checked and it's just making saturation 0. Since the dng files are color, and the film and light have color casts to them, that setting just removes it. I don't think it's totally necessary, but it's worked so far for me.

Jonah!

Can you elaborate as to why you shoot film? Thanks.

@aestheticcontrol

3 ай бұрын

It's really one of those things that just clicked and stuck with me. When I got back into shooting film and developing it myself around 2009, it just satisfied something in me that digital has never really touched. There's a physicality and material nature to it that I don't get from digital. Scanning is fine and gets the job done, but a dark room print is something digital never touches. There's also a built in element of time-away from the the images. Waiting to develop several rolls lets the images "rest" so I come back to them with fresher eyes instead of immediately pulling things off of a card at the end of a shoot.

@tkarlmann

3 ай бұрын

@@aestheticcontrol Do you use an enlarger and make prints, or do you print the digital files? Is your darkroom used to develop the film only? Alternatively, I find seeing the images right away can tell me immediately how an image could have been improved.

@aestheticcontrol

3 ай бұрын

@@tkarlmann I do both digital printing and dark room printing. I prefer dark room for sure, but don't always have the time to print everything, so I usually do a few test prints at smaller sizes to get an idea of what I want to take to the dark room. I do all my development with patterson tanks at home. That is a very real advantage of digital, and I use digital for some paid jobs for sure, but I find I'm always happier with a less than technically perfect film image over a perfect digital image. But, photography hits everyone differently, go with what works best for you! Thanks for watching!

I do not use Negative Lab Pro. No need for. I use Capture One als my base editor in conjunction with Affinity Photo voor the conversion and clean up. I first load the raw's in Capture One and then covert them in Affinity Photo (applyingh the function "edit with"). It is as fast as Negative Lab Pro. If I need to stich a big negative like a 4x5 sheet film I do that in Capture One before converting to positive in Affinity photo. The clean up (dust scratches etc.) I do in Affinity photo before final edit in Capture One. The two programs togeheter give a lot of control without any presets like in Negative Lab pro that preset the TIFF's.

@oscarrodriguez1313

3 ай бұрын

Good for you