Hi Hannah, been climbing for 5 years and also have never hangboarded. Thanks for the easy to follow session. One good piece of advice I got recently was to think of hangboarding as a years long project. Don't go 0-100 right away ;)

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Absolutely! I can see how much of an injury risk hangboarding can be for sure! Hope your enjoy the sessions. I do really love the density hangs because they aren’t too intensive but they feel like they’re really doing some good!

Especially loving your recent videos!

@courtclimbs

3 жыл бұрын

Nate! Next Wednesday you're gonna wanna watch the video that I put out because I straight up was not going to do the 9c challenge until I saw your video game inspired version! So thanks for the motivation to do something creative and fun. :)

@NathanBetts

3 жыл бұрын

@@courtclimbs Awesome - I look forward to it! I only ended up doing it as a creative outlet too :)

Amazing effort Hannah ! So strong 💪 keep it up !! love the video editing and animations so cool 😁

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Faye! 😊😊

Loved the the editing this video Hannah! The illustrations, shots, wording are all so clear and crisp 😍😍 Also thanks for making a video about hangboarding. I'm in the same boat where I had no idea where to begin so this video is gonna be so handy to reference and learn from.

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Amanda! I definitely put off starting for a long time because it felt really unfamiliar. I really enjoy it now I feel like I know what I’m doing a bit more! Good luck with it 😊

Another great video Hannah. Very helpful as I've recently bought a hangboard but struggling with motivation and what to actually do to improve. Keep up the brilliant work. Thank-you.

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Rhett - your comments always put a smile on my face. There are some great hangboard workouts on the Crimpd app too if you aren’t already familiar with it. Enjoy your hangboard sessions and hopefully you see the benefit! 😊

Brush & chalk bag on point! 🙌

As promised, my second comment: Nice video :) So excited for your gyms to open back up soon and you get to use all the quarantine strength you've been working on!

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much Court! Very excited for gyms to open (and for your 9c test!) 😊

Nice gains!! Also, beautiful video! Killing it with the editing

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much Courtney! Means a lot. 😊🙌

Hangboarding is definitely one of the best things one can do in order to strengthen the fingers for sure! Really enjoyed the video, loved the content and editing :)

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Appreciate that! Looking forward to seeing how it pays off when gyms open and I can get on my outdoor projects again!

It's so easy to get over ambitious in those first few hangboarding cycles, but it sounds like you planned it really well! Keep it up! Love your accent by the way!

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Alex! I can see how it would be easy to go way too hard too soon. 😊

Nice gains! I did hangboard training for almost a month but I think that my regimen was too much/frequent with how hard I was climbing afterward so I stopped when my tendons started getting sore. Luckily, I took care of my tendons before they got hurt, but I've been nervous about trying hangboarding again. This video has inspired me to do some more research and find the right regimen for me - thanks for that!

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you! I was quite pleasantly surprised by the gains as I wasn’t sure what to expect. I completely understand why you’d be nervous about hangboarding, it seems like it’s quite an easy training tool to injure yourself on! Thanks for watching and commenting. 😊

Great video very helpful, love the graphics too.

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Dan! Glad it was useful.

I have used hangboarding much more this lockdown than the previous ones. I don't have a lot of weights so have been using smaller edges more than increased weights. I am looking forward to being able to climb again to see what if any gains transfer to actual climbing.

Really awesome video!!

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Anna!

You did great! Love to see it. :)

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! 🤩

Hola, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos. me gustó el video. llevo poco escalando pero aprendo rápido. llevo algún tiempo siguiéndote y me gusta como lo haces. yo no tengo hangboard, practico en las piedras

Nice vid! You gained a sub for sure:)

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Arnaud! Welcome to the channel 😀

There are some very useful hangboarding videos from Rachel on the BMC channel

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Ooh, didn’t know that! Will check them out. 😊

Nice work on the max hangs 🙌 The gains get addictive don't they 😁

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Yes they are! Definitely chasing those beginner gains!

Yes it definitely makes a difference! Mix it all up, but I am still a great beliver in that climbing is the best exercise for climbing!. But if it's hard bouldering instant finger power it's the way forward. Cool video.

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Yes definitely! And technique is such a huge part of climbing ability that climbing is the best way to become a better climber! Glad you liked the video - cheers for commenting!

Yey, awesome progress Hannah! I found this really useful, as I have just been looking at starting to train on a hangboard as well. I have felt quite intimidated by it, but his video made it seem very approachable. :) How many times a week do you train on the hangboard? I am not sure if you mentioned it in a video and if I just missed it.

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much Liisa, I really appreciate that! I was definitely intimidated by the hangboard too but have really enjoyed it! There’s a great app by Lattice called Crimpd which has some really great workouts for starting out too which you might find useful. 😊 I usually train on the hangboard once or twice a week and I’ll use it to warm up on during the week before I climb (kind of like the density hang sessions but less strictured!). Thanks again for commenting!

Hey Hannah what edge do you hang on when testing your max?

Ok Hannah I'm like 34 seconds in and your graphics are fireeeee... stay tuned for my second comment on this video haha

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Ahhhhh! Making my evening with your compliments! 😳😍💚

Bloody love that intro!

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Ah man! Thanks 💚

Very sick video I liked it a lot

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it ☺️

@nikolaandric3200

3 жыл бұрын

@@hannahmorrisbouldering of course! Just curious if u have ur routine for this posted anywhere?

Its a huge gain. Congratulation. If your journey will be similar to mine you can expect another 3kg going up after same period of time. After that you may reach maximum what you will get from nervous system adaptations and start gaining actual strength adaptation. After that initial huge jump I started to gain only 0,5-1kg per 2-3 months of finger boarding.

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks very much! Looking forward to seeing how much I can improve my max hang (and trying not to get carried away and picking up an injury!). 😊

@MeshiMeshi-vu2hs

3 жыл бұрын

@@hannahmorrisbouldering That is very good decision. I picked mine first ever injury 7 months in finger board program. When I decided to do max hang test followed by light boulder session. A2 pully didn't like it.

Sorry if you said this, but how often do you do hangboard training? Also what hang board do you use? I've been considering starting training for a while now.

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

I usually train on the hangboard once or twice a week. I have a beastmaker 1000 and I’d say It’s definitely worth investing in one or picking up something similar (or they have a couple at V1!). Training overall has been a great find for me during lockdown! 😊

@kanebuckthorpe1

3 жыл бұрын

@@hannahmorrisbouldering I think I could manage sticking with a couple of times a week. I'm going to take the plunge and order one now :D. Thank you!

This is one of your best vids, Han Han!

Hannah, I am always amazed at how brilliantly you produce videos. Are you a trainer by chance?

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. I really do appreciate that the effort is noticed with the videos! I’m not a trainer! 😊

@highlandexplorer990

3 жыл бұрын

@@hannahmorrisbouldering You have a great style. Would be suited to a trainer.

I have tried doing this but I’m really horrendous with forearm strength so do you suggest some weight training with it?

@DrunkenDemon

Жыл бұрын

I might have an answer, even if its 10 months later. A few days ago I started training with ... that kind of pipe you can teporarily fix between your doorframe(dont know the word). I am overweight, so based on this I started with baby steps: Support your weight with your feet and try to build up strenght like that. But dont forget that bulding up your sinews takes longer ans more care than just your muscles. (please correct me if i got something wrong)

Do you you the Lattice Crimpd app? If not get it, it's free and is brilliant for providing a whole range of finger boarding exercises. You can test max hang strength and then it calculates your 90% max 10 second hang. You can also log all your sessions. Good gain in max hang but the is fairly normal in those new to this form of training, it gets a lot harder to make gains but it comes down to persistence and patience.

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

My partner Nathan uses it a fair amount and it looks great! I’ll definitely be trying it out more myself now I feel like I know the hangboard a little better! I like the idea of logging sessions in an app especially.

What do you think about training different grip types? Half crimp, open hand?

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

I generally train half crimp because it’s the grip type I find I most use when I’m climbing. I’ve never really gotten to grips with open hand grip - it always feels like I’m not really engaged but perhaps I’m not doing it correctly! I could definitely use learning to drag more often though. I’ve read that training half crimp also trains full crimp strength so I don’t really ever full crimp on the hangboard. I think it’s pretty injury prone!

@oskarskoglund9496

3 жыл бұрын

@@hannahmorrisbouldering I totally agree, I noticed when i started hangboarding a couple of months ago that I was really weak in half crimp position and a lot stronger in open hand. That made me realize that I had been activating wrong parts of my forearms when climbing. I started a program to target finger strength in strict half crimp position using a 20mm edge and a pulley system to reduce weight so I could complete 10 second reps during max hangs. Made really good improvements thanks to getting on The hangboard and training on my weaknesses

Hey, did you do density hangs and max hangs at the same time? How did you schedule them?

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Hi! I usually do one session of each per week, not at the same time! 😊 hope that helps!

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

I usually have a hangboard session as one session of a few on a given day. If I’m doing max hangs I’ll try to structure my training in a way that means I’m not going from max hangs to a heavy ‘on the wall’ session or doing max pull ups and max hangs on the same day. Density hangs are a little less intense so I’ll include those more flexibly!

How long did you rest in between the max hangs? Andd how many sets did you do?

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Oops! Sorry, would have been useful! I did 8 sets of max hangs with around 1.5 to 2 minutes rest. ☺️

@joshuagil-reynolds1605

3 жыл бұрын

@@hannahmorrisbouldering Thats More than I expected honestly. And less rest than I expected.

6 kg in two months on such a small muscle group is pretty mental actually! Well done

@hannahmorrisbouldering

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

seems more like open hand than half crimp when doing max.

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

Definitely still getting used to grip types!

@bumbipungen

3 жыл бұрын

@@hannahmorrisbouldering I did it for 6 months but now I put the knuckle of my thumb to the bottom of the hangboard and when I can't press it against the board any longer I consider it fail and let go. As I understand it this is a good way not to overload and get injured

Are you planning on working on your pulling strength? In the 9C test your pulling was quite lower

@hannahmorrisbouldering

3 жыл бұрын

I do max pull up sessions too so hopefully not for long!

I am used to listening to English podcasts and stuff, but honestly you are hard to understand 30% of the time.. and I'm only at the beginning of the video. I believe that you just talk sometimes to fast and your words are like in german - bunch of them combined into one single super-word that's hard to understand.