I had a quote from my painter for 3500 bucks. Talked him down to 3k. Still too Much. I had a drywall guy come out and tell me he was going to use a heat gun to skim and patch my walls. I just decided. Hell nah. I’m gonna get my dads old tools and figure this shit out. I just bought a condo and the previous owners did some booty buttcheeks work. After about 20 hours of watching this channel I feel like I went to school. I can feather. I can skim. I can do quick patches. Corners. I’ve fixed almost everything in my crib. Thanks dude. I have spent about 1k on paint and tools though. Including a sprayer

Major props to you for doing this! That's a real rarity in our trade, alot of us are very...stuck in our ways

I'm curious to know if you check back in with us in a couple of weeks and see if there's still no flashing after both the hot mud and paint have fully cured.

It’s awesome that you seem to put our videos not just to “boost your KZread algorithm”, but legitimately share good information and learn something yourself! I’m not even a drywaller, but I appreciate tagging along your drywall journey😜👍🏽!

@vancouvercarpenter

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you! Knowledge and being useful is the goal. Sometimes the algorithm punishes me for it but our creator doesn't :)

@Cindy25Cox

Жыл бұрын

@@vancouvercarpenter 100% correct.

My two cents if it helps anybody. I found on smaller patches what occurs and causes the paint to look different is... Say you take a 1 gallon can of paint poured into a cut in bucket mini roller and paint the first coat of paint over fresh drywall either hot mud or regular Then you wait for that coat of paint to dry Next you use the same cut-in bucket with the leftover paint (not poor anymore clean paint in from the 1 gallon can) and the same roller and brush then paint your second coat of paint. This is where the problem occurs and acts like "flashing". Stick with me for the explanation... If you were to take a sponge very lightly damp and rub that drywall patch then look at the sponge you will have drywall on the sponge this is what occurred to your first coat of paint. You took your roller and brush rub the drywall patch and then contaminated the remaining paint in the cut-in bucket now your paint is a different color and Sheen. Some people call this flashing; it's not. This is the reason a lot of people say You must use a Drywall primer all Drywall primer is - is cheap paint. If you have a large section to do, use Drywall primer. If you have small patchwork to do use your regular paint. The solution: Use your first coat of paint as primer when you're done clean out your cut in bucket, rollers, brushes and start with fresh paint from the clean one gallon bucket to do your second coats. Let me know if this helps you guys out?

@EdgeSanityGaming

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, I think this does happen. Some mud gets dissolved into your paint if it's not sealed with primer.

@ianholmes6078

2 жыл бұрын

Incredible explanation, and a very probable reason

@Chris.Rhodes

2 жыл бұрын

this is probably the only explanation that actually makes total sense to me.

@MIGHTYX2010

2 жыл бұрын

@@Chris.Rhodes thanks I appreciate the feedback. It took me a long time to have an understanding of this situation with mud and paint. 👍

@Chris.Rhodes

2 жыл бұрын

@@MIGHTYX2010 I've always been a believer of "never start or enter a conversation if you can't learn something" so I'm always for learning. I've always just painted hot mud, if I'm doing an entire wall, or job, I'll definitely finish with Plus 3 air dry mud, but for any patches I always paint the hot mud I never seen a reason to come back with like 3 coats (sometimes) of hot mud and add all purpose or plus 3 just to paint it. I never had an issue. But I've always painted one small coat with a cut in bucket and a 4" roller and then I get my pan out and fill with fresh paint for my next coat, or two. So maybe I've been doing it the way you explained the whole time, and I just didn't know it lol

Amazing video so helpful and entertaining. Keep up the amazing work Ben.

Excellent! We are skimming a room now and have some exposed quickset...some of the same materials.. sounds like the bottom line is "Know your materials!" thanks for your excellent channel!

Very glad you did this video. I’m a home Diyer but I’ve always used 90 easy sand quickset and paint/primer for my small patch jobs and it’s always blended nicely. I’ve heard you say never to paint hot mud and worried I was doing something wrong.

@gordonjohnson2497

2 жыл бұрын

Same day???

@xbadandy182x

6 ай бұрын

​@@gordonjohnson2497I've done it same day. But only on very thin patches and never sand in between costs of quickset. I didn't have any problem with shrinkage days later

Older hotmudd was different than it is now I've noticed. It did used to flash badly. I srarted, and still do use a semi-gloss first coat. It is a great way to make any patch blend with a wall, or lid, that has many coats of paint. I grab some of the discounted paint cuz it doesn't matter what color it is, as long as it's not way off, either semi or gloss.

I’ve noticed most guys that paint on top of hot mud are usually in a rush. They sand it before it’s fully dry and paint it right away with no primer. No wonder it flashes haha! Good job and thanks again for your videos! It’s a breath of fresh air to see you do things the right way all the time!

Exactly what I needed to hear. I am painting bare drywall room next week. Just regular drywall primer will be perfect. Thanks!

Awesome. Ever since you mentioned this in another video, I've been curious about it!

I’ve had a couple of issues with painting small repairs of hot mud and just take my time. Like the video you did about one day repairs. I just need two..lol. Maybe I need to rethink that. Your videos are always so good thanks Ben!

Thank you! I always enjoy when you experiment.

I watch your videos just to calm my daily anxiety. Preciate it!

As a painter of roughly 20 years, painting hot mud has rarely been an issue for me. On newly drywalled remodels or new homes, I recommend the drywaller uses prepcoat BEFORE any texture is applied. After texture, we PVA prime the drywall and texture, then spray and backroll the finish paint. If they are trying to save as much as possible, you CAN get away without back rolling cheap flat paints, although I do not recommend it. I have never had any issues with painting hot mud or air dry mud on new work. On rare occasions, I have had patches flash. I generally don't attribute that to the mud type, its usually an issue of getting the surface to the right texture and porosity before painting.

@stylicho

2 жыл бұрын

What is prepcoat?

@srharris88

2 жыл бұрын

@@stylicho honestly I'm not sure what it's made from but it's kind of like thinned down mud that applies like paint. It helps with adhesion and makes the walls much more uniform for finish painting. When walls are taped and filled there are usually some areas of the wall board that have no mud, and others that do. It can leave the finish paint to dry uneven. It makes it so the entire wall/ceiling has the same porosity and finish. It also helps with adhesion so it's a win win IMO.

This is exactly info I've been looking for. Bathroom walls are patched with 90min CertainTeed and sanded smooth, waiting to be painted. I had no issues sanding the same day btw despite all accounts that hot mud dries super hard. Previous vid you said quickset doesn't take paint, but the guy in blue shirt from Ottawa says no primer needed. Painter friend says just spot prime with paint but he doesn't use quickset. I was afraid of flashing so was considering doing whole wall in 123. Would love to see you test this out on 5" spots surrounded by painted wall vs skimming the whole section. Cheers for all your advice and knowledge, plus love reading the comments.

I enjoyed the video. Thank you!

I have used the Zinser or Bullseye over new drywall or heavily patched and mudded drywall and then painted over that because I have found that stains will come through for whatever reason and so using the sealer will help prevent that. Also, I find that I’m not using as much paint because the drywall or mud already has the primer so isn’t soaking up that paint it otherwise would.

Thanks for my therapy appointment today Dr Ben

Love the sessions

Great video and I really enjoy your videos,GOD BLESS

The BIN shellac primer will cover anything. I love that stuff. The smell is a bit rough though.

Nice vid Ben, enjoy these types of vids……as learning new, or old, “things” is fun. Yep, actually fun, especially when someone else is doing the vids😉 For real though, these types of should you/shouldn’t you vids is cool to see and compare; b/c w/ everything, just b/c it didn’t work; doesn’t mean it will always be the case. Technology always evolving (& yes for ppl that don’t understand, there’s technology and science that goes into making paint, drywall, diff types of “muds” and so on…), & companies do change up formulas and ingredients (ratios) used…..then you have the locale difference too, meaning climate & such that can effect products. Cheers✌🏻

Yeah it's always easier on the finish if you use the premix on top, and it always seemed like it was down to sanding, tolerance for unevenness and your choice of primer as to whether it would flash. Love that your experiment settled that nagging little question though, just in case.

Ive been painting houses professionally since 1997 and from my experience paints are always changing. I had a go to exterior paint i used on literally EVERYTHING. From all my exterior projects to interior trim and cabinets. This stuff was a beast. A shot of black and it would cover literally anything in one coat, of course primed bare wood. All of the sudden I buy 2 five gallon buckets to spray a small exterior and it was literally garbage. Super thin, saggy, and runny. Where before no matter how thick you layed it on it stayed put. Just be careful banking on any one paint. Smaller projects no big deal, but I had a freaking mess on my hands, counting on my go to paint to do what it always done for me.

@vancouvercarpenter

2 жыл бұрын

Brutal :(

The sheen and actual color of the paint plays a roll in flashing as well.

Great test! Maybe that old advice came about from either oil based paints, or latex paint that wasn't as good as modern products are. Love learning new stuff.

Great topic. I would say different brands of quick setting muds are going to behave differently. I was a taper by profession for 23 years. Always top coated hot mud patches with an all purpose joint compound. Found out about the differences when I moved from AZ to IA. In Iowa, we used to quick set out garages that couldn’t be taped in the Winter, we’d catch them up in the Spring. Unfortunately I don’t remember brand names but the hotmud we used in Iowa was affected by a Plaster Catalyst that made 90 minute mud set in 8 minutes. That same Catalyst acted as a retarder on Hamiltons brand. Actually made it set slower that the specified time on the bag. Totally different chemical make up. So, paint should be affected differently between those two. Anyway, thanks for letting us in on your experiment, keep up the great channel, it’s gotta be helping a lot of folks. Drywall is a good thing to know if you’re your own remodeler.

Been painting over 'hot mud' for 35 years with basic wall paint. As long as you spot prime with your wall paint once maybe twice if its a large patch, then you won't have any problems. I was surprised that 123 flashed so much, might be due to it dries with an eggshell finish, most other primers dry with a flat finish. If you don't do that 'spot prime' and just put 2 coats of wall paint on you will usually notice flashing. Thank you for your experiment.

I'm not a professional and I wasn't aware of the flashing issue. I've always filled and taped with Durabond (generally add glue). Use Easy Sand for the second coat and use air dry for final. Never use drywall primer/sealer. Always use use a stain sealer before topcoat. Get excellent results.

Here is my take on what went down. 123 primer has a bit of a sheen to it, meaning it isn't porous and a bit slippery. Your 1st coat overtop will be very thin even skipping a few places, akin to painting/mudding over a semi-gloss surface so your 2 coats was more like 1.3 coats and you had flashing. 123 is a great undercoat for cabinets/trim where you will be applying a melamine or semi-gloss finish but really isn't good for drywall, use a PVA primer/sealer for that. Second, super II is awesome for 2 coats over a minor patch without flashing which is why it is so popular with painters. I would still apply a PVA drywall sealer over any major patch as paint is too thick to penetrate and stick to dusty mud and get a good bond, but for minor touch up patching like pin-holes, minor imperfections, 2 coats super II without primer will get you an even sheen, that's it's whole claim to fame. And as always - pole sand (120 for flat or eggshell/ 150-220 or higher for semigloss) before each and every coat of paint.

I haven't had the same experience. I use that 123 primer every time and seems to work great and you can't tell where I had the wall repair done. If I just paint it with the finish coat and no primer, I think the mud absorbs the paint and it's obvious where the repair spot is.

Love that sander btw!

I like that Ben is turning into a bit of a scientist. He's becoming the Bill Nye of Drywall...

@robertgiresi9515

2 жыл бұрын

Ben D the drwalleriest carpenter science guy!

That Zinsser is my go to primer when priming after mudding or sealing the brown paper on drywall before mudding. Haven't had any issues and I'm just a home gamer.

just a DIYer, but i painted quickset before i knew better.. didn't have any flashing issues, but if tape got used on it it would peel the paint right off (i have since learned not to need tape, lol)

wow im so suprise im using the 123 primer but using it for a plastic baseboard and plastic ceiling baseboard, there is lots of blackspot that cant remove even after wiping n cleaning, so i use this 123 primer applied 2 coating and after i use the wood paint eggshell, 2 coat’s aswell but it finish product was good.. idk from walls but for my plastic baseboard it was good. thanks for ur video sir

I think the solution is having a good quality paint sealer. The 1-2-3 has a satin finish so it might flash if your other coats are not with good quality paint. And to avoid flashing always use something that will dry flat on your mud.

@wally7856

Жыл бұрын

Exactly! 123 is too shiny for priming drywall. Your next coat will be too thin compared to a porous flat PVA primer. Exactly what went down! Not only that but I never seen any pole sanding. No pole sanding = flashing every time. Good teacher, good mudder, needs lessons on painting.

I use 5 minute hot mud to fill in nail holes in empty apartments to get them ready for the set of wall wreckers. We use flat wall paint and I never use any kind of primer. You can see every spot while the paint is wet. After about thirty minutes or so you can't find any spots even with my flashlight held at a angle. I'm happy that I found your channel about a year ago. I'm a big fan of 5 minute USG hot mud. I take the heal of my putty knife and push in every hole. Then a place a small piece of blue tape beside each hole. That's because after I mix my mud I go so fast I don't have to pay any attention if I miss a hole. I leave the tape on the wall because hot mud is hard to find on a flat white wall. I sand each one with a flashlight pull the tape and ready to paint.

@conradcoolerfiend

2 жыл бұрын

sometimes you can skip the tapes by putting a bit of blue chalk in your mud.

@TobiasRaphael1

2 жыл бұрын

I have found that using the rounded end of a small ball-peen hammer, is much easier and faster to prep holes in the wall for hot mud. Less fatigue and it sets a round indent, to get rid of those pesky paper-tear burrs. Try it, you might find it useful!

Prime with BIN Shellac then whatever oil base primer then paint, BIN only adds like 15-30 minutes and it will stick.

I haven't noticed flashing but that doesn't mean it hasn't happened. My understanding is (was) the biggest reason is because people try to paint while the mud is still wet under the surface, causing the paint to peel. I paint a lot of rental apartments where nobody pays attention to slight color variation.... it's expected. When I do people's homes I tend toward higher quality, meaning I would almost always prime patches. Thanks for the tip!

flashing will happen with bad paint, or if it isn't primed (assuming you let the hot mud cure for a good 24 hours).... I've had this happen in the past, different quicksets will have varying levels of flashing. Flashing don't worry me, I've had paint fall off of areas that were painted too soon, in order to knock out a repair quickly, that a customer demanded. Nothing like walking in the next day to areas of paint missing off the wall. Then again, this problem may vary by manufacturer. Another thing that causes flashing is difference of colors of walls, ceilings, floor, etc reflecting all over. We had to change the pain color of a hallway one time, because the carpet color was reflecting off the walls, when we laid a white drop cloth over the carpet, the flashing disappeared. Honestly, I wouldn't use a sealer over hot mud, because unless it is cured & all the moisture is gone, then you would be sealing the moisture behind the paint, giving you a darker color.

I rarely do my finish coats in hot mud, but in a pinch i have, and have never had a problem with painting over it.

My Papa told me years ago to add a splash of paint to my hot mud. It pre tints the finished product and non textured walls, you can often only have to top coat after everything sets up.

I wonder if these apply to textured walls as well since they get textured with regular mud. Also, does not painting patch and paint in one day apply to textured walls. I have done that without problems that I know of

I think the “rule” means that you need to use primer/sealer, prior painting top coat. I think if you go straight on top coat, will not be good. Would be interesting to see test results on that. Also hot mud needs to be dry prior painting.

I always paint hot mud, right after I prime first. Never used anything else but paintable caulk for smaller jobs. Are we supposed to use all purpose mud for the finishing? Maybe I need to brush up on more of your videos to do it right. Of course I'm letting my hot mud dry at least several days before paint and primer. Maybe that's the trick, a diyer can actually bide his time on the work needed. A drywaller maybe doesn't.

Ben, I have done repairs of every size with everything from hot mud to spackle. Yet I can’t seem to avoid flashing after painting. Will you do a video on how to avoid it, please?

I have painted over hot mud many times because I didn't know you were not supposed to. However I typically use primer. I have seen flashing before, but usually when I skipped the primer.

Something that worked well for me: two coats of Gardz and controlling the humidity in the room as much as possible during the process made painting hotmud possible for me. Your results, however, may vary. Thanks for the content.

@rolfbjorn9937

2 жыл бұрын

Skip Gardz, it takes forever to dry and can still peel and bubble off plaster and mud (which his job in the first place is to prevent!)go to BIN Shellac and a coat of odorless Zinsser or Kilz

Typically we use quickset for patches and we prime with Benjamin Moore step 1. Then paint. Never had an issue.

I have a question about priming I skimmed a ceiling with mud then on the walls I get a a bunch of patched floated them out and such but the customer didn’t wanna skimcoat the walls would take too long and I did the patches on yellow eggshell paint can I use pva on the whole wall or will it not stick to the eggshell paint

I was applying compound to a previously coated wall and had compound peeling when doing finishing pass. How and why?

1:00 I finally tried some Hamilton mud (though packaging said Westpac) purely because I was too lazy to get USG from the local Lowe's, which is a 15 min drive (Home Depot is less than 5 min). And I gotta say, I can see why you prefer it. I'm not a professional, but I actually find Westpac/Hamilton much easier to work with; it's more controllable than USG if that makes sense, AND it just stays on my hawk better

@vancouvercarpenter

2 жыл бұрын

It's really good mud. Never had better hotmud. Don't care for the premix as much. Decent but nothing to write home about.

When you have to fix a missed mark in your freshly painted wall, or you stupidly put one in there, I find that if you mix hot mud with your wall paint you can use that as a colored filler and then it’s just a quick little touchup on the wall that no one will ever see. That’s the only way I would paint over hot mud without a PVA primer

As a painting business owner I use hot mud and paint over it. Just pre prime the patch and you should be good to go.

We prime our patches with the wall color then come back and roll entire wall never had hot mud flash and we use it everyday .... that's how the old school painters taught me Disclaimer you have to know how to roll edges out to nothing while priming to use this method tho

Project Farm has awarded you a silver star...

@robertgiresi9515

2 жыл бұрын

"We're gonna test that...."

Paints vary quite a bit. For some jobs paint and primer works great. But if you need the primer to make the paint stick to the surface it makes no sense putting the primer in the paint. My kids wanted the ceiling in their room sanded. I told them not to but they started the job then realized what a pain in the butt it is to remove the texture from the ceiling, so they left the job to good old dad. It sucked. I don't have a dustless sander. Took several days of sand and then run and breath. And once smooth the paint would NOT stick to the ceiling, it would just peel right off. Paint and primer did nothing. But once I had a coat of just primer on the ceiling the regular paint stuck fine. The same with hiding stains. Oil stains, markers, etc. on walls. Some paint and primer work fine but some the stain will just come through, no matter how many coats you put on. Primer first usually works. The chemicals in the mud may change the texture or color or shine of the paint. Depends on the mud and depends on the paint. Your mileage may vary.

The old forum you read, probably referred to faster lower minute hot muds that don’t sand out so well, or at all. Anything under 60 is too hard and not porous enough to ansorb PVA or paints, hence the flashing.

I got this house that someone used hot mud then painted. It's peeling and cracking. How do I fix this mess

Gracias @VC

Just goes to prove that you don't know what you don't know until you know it. Thanks for the little experiment

@lorenrickey5481

2 жыл бұрын

I know right!!

If i don't have any primer on hand for a small repair trim paint or exterior paint works good as a primer.

if you read that 123 its not recommmended for spot priming for this reason...i have this problem on my kitchen ceiling...i painted the spot like 4 times still flashes!

I prime and paint hot mud all the time, I use whatever primer is most convenient. Shellac often for time and always let patches dry at least over night

My tape lines are showing after putting second coat of primer Can you make video on how to cover tape showing after painting primer..

Were all three the same "white" ? That brand primer- sealer is white -white. In a corner like that the light is usually more at the top and less at the bottom plus any reflection of floor color (usually darker). Each wall in a room will be a "hair" shade different as the main light comes in and hits each wall different . As sun moves changing direction of light coming in can give a " hair" shade different on each wall .

I found 123 did the same for me but thankfully by waiting a few days the paint soaked through the 123 and then there was only 1 patch that hadn't gone. I waited 5 days and it disappeared.

My assumption for the reasoning was always that Hotmud doesn't sand well. When I first started DIY drywall repairs I used hotmud and the results are horrible, flashing for days. But, I didn't go wide enough with my patches, and my sanding was subpar, and I never skim coated an entire surface. That said, I think it's still reasonable to suggest that hotmud is harder for beginners to get a good finish out of, particularly because it's so hard to sand/feather without a full surface skim coat. In that instance, I think air drying mud is a better option.

You got it, zinsser is now owned by rustoleum. It seems thick but the coverage is terrible. Their idea being if the surface is 70% primed, that's good enough. And that's honestly a fair point for the price of the stuff. That blue discoloration is how the stain blocking works. The primer seals the stain into itself. Just usually there's more pigment so you don't see it as much.

I've always painted my hot mud on small patch jobs. I prime first and then 2 coats of paint .

can you test something for me and let me know if this is a thing. adding 100 grams of quickset 5mins to 1-pound of all purpose. I was told by a "pro" that he does this all the time when he want to patch and paint in the same day.

Any topping can be painted...and any topping will flash. It needs to be sanded properly primed with multiple coats sanded again then multiple coats of finish.You need to keep painting it until the stiple matches...one coat of primer and one coat of paint will never be enough..

I thought the bullseye primer was to be used to seal the new drywall and mud before putting on paint

ive always assumed i could paint hot mud because i regularly paint over unprimed drydex without issue. Although like you, I can't think of too many instances where im not coating hot mud with AP.

@rockstopsthetraffic

2 жыл бұрын

I'm curious about the porosity difference between drydex and hot mud, now...

You mentioned that the 123 is white but it can be tinted to many colors. At least at my local Home Depot.

It's my experience the texture matters more than the paint. Your atea is obsessed with these dead flat walls but where I live texture is appreciated. When everything's textured you don't get flashing very easily.

I find that Hot Mud (usually 20min EZ Sand) doesn't Paint well. It often fails when the Painter comes back to Paint it. I know it has to be applied at a minimum thickness so I am thinking that may be the problem. Maybe my Plasterers aren't applying it thick enough for the chemical reaction to completely take place. Does this sound right? Has anyone had problems( bubbling, coming off on roller) Painting Hot Mud?

How does that Festool XL skimming blade work with the dust extractor?

The paints going to absorb differently with hot mud then it is with regular mud.

To get a really bright white they typically add blue to the paint. Perhaps the hot mud is accentuating the added blue tint?

@vancouvercarpenter

2 жыл бұрын

That's what I was thinking.

@williammccalla5865

2 жыл бұрын

Flat paint is the key for first coat over patches, Flat paints absorbs into drywall than sheen paints they stay more on top of drywall

I've done this many times with great success. I just use a PVA primer then two coats of PAIN and everything is good. I've never liked the 123 sealer, stark difference in quality from their other good products like BIN

@davehall3351

2 жыл бұрын

Agree, I learned to hate 123, neither blocked nor sealed

@robertgiresi9515

2 жыл бұрын

+1 for the coats of PAIN joke that never gets old!

I do all my patches with hot mud and use a primer before painting. I was taught the primer promotes adhesion, but is not meant to cover the patch with pigment.

Modern Paints often get reformulated with better ingredients to improve performance. Low cost Primers are still basic products that are only updated to be manufactured with cheaper substitutes or meet new emissions standards.

I would argue that the spot above and below were the ones that were actually "flashing" I've used zinnser 123 on light critical walls and have always found it to be an outstanding sealer. You get way better hold out painting over 123 the you do conventional pva. I can roll topcoat over a 20 ft long wall primed with 123 and it will stay wet long after I finished. Where as rolling over pva you get maybe 4 feet in width before what you rolled is "touch dry". I've had customers spot prime there own patch work with 123 and it flashed like crazy. But it was because the spots they primed, were actually sealed better then the rest of the wall that had been primed and painted multiple times. The solution was to prime the whole wall in 123 and it came out perfectly.

@sheldonclarke877

2 жыл бұрын

To be clear, 123 flashes shinier than the rest of the wall where as conventional flashing is usually duller/flatter than the rest of the wall.

I've been painting it for years never had a problem

👍

i'm thinking that the primer/sealer needs to be painted. At that point it probably wouldn't flash. Anyway, I watch all your videos and love them

Good test. But this is a bit of a red herring since you shouldn't skim with setting compound anyway.

21 year painter: you just need to prime it first bud... I use it all the time. Let it dry all the way, sand and prime... Then paint

Topcoat sheen makes a big difference. Less sheen hides a lot.

Yea I was just sayings different hot mud or other paints mayb react different

🤘🤙👍

As a homeowner and DIYer, I've always been wary of using quickset because I'm so slow.

@randomdude3066

2 жыл бұрын

Get the 45 or 90 minute kind

@conradcoolerfiend

2 жыл бұрын

@@randomdude3066 yep and make small batches

I wet sand and wipe down my hot mud patches. Comes out smooth as glass. The roller from painting ends up being the roughest texture left behind. 😂 The results of this technique has been called "magic" by those who don't know. 🤷‍♂️

I paint over hot mud and Ben Moore work great

Zinnser 123 has definitely gone downhill. I just stopped using it and returned my unused gallons.

Been paint’n mud for 73 years, everyone know giant eclipse patches stops flashing.

@vancouvercarpenter

2 жыл бұрын

😂