Nicely done. I have done a lot of brake job in the past, but mostly on 1969 - 1973 Mustangs and Cougars, sometimes 11978 Lincoln Mark V and various GM and Mopar vehicles. Never on a Hyundai, and I wanted to make certain there would be any nasty surprises (special tools needed). Your video is very nicely done, and it is now clear to me there is no unusual steps or special tools I need to be aware of. Many thanks!

@RMAGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you.

Watched both your videos regarding the brakes, 👍the mk1 2003 and mk2 2007 are the very same, great job.

@RMAGarage

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks

Great Job. And your right not much out there for the newer model Hyundai's. Glad I watched this now those springs were unexpected

@RMAGarage

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Thanks to your video I was able to do this job without too much trouble. Mine is a 2018 so it had a few differences but overall it was exactly what I needed.

@RMAGarage

Жыл бұрын

I glad we were able to help. Thanks for the comment.

Thank you so much for making this video. It is going to help me help my best friend with his wife vehicle. This has been the best video with great shots and very detail information. Please keep up the great work! I have a quick question do you have to bleed the brake line after you putting on new rotors?

@RMAGarage

4 жыл бұрын

I did not have to bleed the brake lines. You only have to bleed the brakes when air is introduced to the lines. This occurs when a line is removed or from a leak. You may also need to bleed the brakes if you have a soft pedal feel when brakes are applied. If you feel you need to bleed the brakes, you may want to ask help from someone who has done this before. You will not need to bleed the system if you are only changing the brake pads. Thanks for the question.

@JakeDroege

4 жыл бұрын

RMA Garage Thank you for the excellent information!

nice video. one thing I would like to add is, I like to use a wire brush to clean the calipers etc...

@RMAGarage

2 жыл бұрын

That's a good idea!

Thanks for the info, one thing I can suggest is when you are hammering off the rotors throw the lug nuts on a couple turns to protect the treads from a miss with a hammer or sludge, it will have you time and money if you screw up those threads.

@RMAGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Very Good Idea. Thanks for the Comment.

Now that's what I call step by step instructions. I'm going to do my brakes soon. I just don't have that extra cash for labor cost. Thanks

@RMAGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it helped. Thanks for the comment.

Very useful and clean job, will U please tell me is rotor for two pistons disk is the same in size as one piston disk for santaFe grand 2016

@RMAGarage

3 жыл бұрын

I am sorry, I do not know.

Very thorough video, wow. Thank you. Do I really must install the steel springs and 2 screws that hold the rotor? Is it a MUST?

@RMAGarage

2 жыл бұрын

I am a firm believer that if the engineers placed them there to begin with, then they must be in there. However, redundancy has been built into most cars so if it is omitted it most likely wont hurt things but it is better if they are there.

Great Video. I really appreciate this!

@RMAGarage

2 жыл бұрын

You're Welcome.

Eric, you do good work. I did like finding out about the impact tool for the screw on the rotor. My daughter was told of need of new rotors and I was not aware of this tool, so to my dismay, I had to tell her I could not get it off and she had to pay the dealer. Also, m ay I suggest that on brake jobs, you first open the master cylinder. The brake system is closed and pushing the piston in is much easier with the master cylinder being open. Of course, make sure you close it and then after starting the car, pump the brakes a few times to build up the pressure before driving. If not, start to drive, hit the brakes the pedal goes down to the floor and nothing! So be sure to close and pump. Secondly, I use a large C clamp on the caliper before loosening the caliper. You need to push back the piston anyway and it makes it easier to lift it off once you loosen and remove the bolts. You can also use one of the brake pads to finish compressing the piston. No need for a special piece of metal to fully retract it.

@RMAGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Thomas, thanks for the suggestions. I will keep them in mind for the next job we do.

@virusthewolf

2 жыл бұрын

You really don't need that tool, there are many other ways. for example using an impact driver with the right bit much faster and efficient. i just did my friends car with it. I also bought couple screws just in case. I bought all OEM parts online the screws were a dollar/piece.

thank u sir 4 ur knowledge sir at how many miles do you changed the rotors and brakes of hyundai 2017 ? thank u sir again

@RMAGarage

2 жыл бұрын

It depends on what type of driving you do. Highway miles will give you more miles and commuting and hills will give you less. Just check them yearly and change them when worn out. Having said that, after 40,000 miles, keep an eye on them. Thanks for the comment.

@moiseslerma3695

2 жыл бұрын

@@RMAGarage THANK U SIR 4 UR KNOWLEDGE SIR

@RMAGarage

2 жыл бұрын

@@moiseslerma3695 Your Welcome

Great video. Do you know the torque values for the caliper body hardware,, and for the pad bracket?

@RMAGarage

3 жыл бұрын

I am sorry, I do not have the torque specs. The best suggestion I have is to use a torque wrench to take off the bolts and start low and work High on the setting. When you can take the bolt off without the torque wrench kicking out, then you know you are close.

@virusthewolf

2 жыл бұрын

I do have. I'm Trying to to add an a link to the image from the specs sheet. If you still need let me know.

To push the piston back you can use the old brake pad instead of a piece of metal plate ...saves time looking for a plate as you'll have the old pad to hand

@RMAGarage

7 ай бұрын

Great Idea! Thanks for the comment.

What size attachment are you using on the drill? Also, is that a regular drill?

@RMAGarage

2 жыл бұрын

The tool we are using is not a drill. It is an impact wrench with a 1/2" sized drive (www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2555-20). This is not attachment. The socket is 1/2" sized and fits on the end of the tool. The socket was not impact rated, but still worked. Thanks for the comment.

Are you using a 3/8" or 1/2" impact screwdriver? Thanks!

@RMAGarage

3 жыл бұрын

3/8"

@6guitarplayer

3 жыл бұрын

@@RMAGarage Thanks for the reply. I have everything I need according to your video to replace my front brake pads and rotors on my 2017 Sante Fe Sport. The most important question I have is where do you jacked up the Sante Fe Sport and where to you place the jack stands? It can't be the same place unless you have a Renn Stand. I know the area behind the front tire on the crimp rail that the factory says to put the jack, but then where would I place the jack stand? I can't get a straight answer locally from anyone on this question. Also, does the caliper have a bleed valve to use when compressing back the piston? I've seen other videos for other cars were they open up the bleed valve, attach a clear tube into a soda bottle and as they push the piston back, the fluid comes out of the bleed valve into the bottle and then if they need to add a little more brake fluid they will. Thanks!

@RMAGarage

3 жыл бұрын

@@6guitarplayer Thanks for the questions. You do not need to open the bleeder valve to open the pistons on the caliper. When you put pressure on the piston is will very slowing open up. Excess fluid will simply back up into the line and master cylinder. If you open the bleeder you will have to bleed the brakes. Second, there is no good spot to place the jack stand. I just put it under the "A" arm for safety but did not lower it or rest the "A" arm on the jack stand. It is there just in case the pump jack starts to fail. Hope this helps.

@6guitarplayer

3 жыл бұрын

@@RMAGarage Your whole video helped me! I did end up using my Daytona Heavy Duty Jack with a IFJF LicBund rubber jack pad frame rail adapter to lift my 2017 Santa Fe Sport at the factory recommended locations and I placed a jack stand next to it lowering just enough to touch the rail behind the crimp point and left the jack, so I have 2 supports just in case. Everything went as you said. I had bought all the things you mentioned to get the job done. My pads from Auto Zone came with backing plates on both pads. I did take off the inner pad backing plate and replaced it with the factory one since the factory backing plate extends a little past the pad to fully cover the piston. I used anti seize on the plate that the rotor gets screwed to. My rotor came off just by loosing the 2 screws. After installation, I pumped the brakes and took it out to seat the breaks. I did 6 to 8 slow stops at 10 miles and hour, 6 to 8 slow stops at 20 mph, then 4 to 5 at 30. I basically did this until I didn't hear the brakes anymore. My breaks don't have any noise, don't squeak, they are awesome! Now to do the rear brakes in the future. Thanks for making this video,. It's the first time I've ever attempted a brake and rotor job!

@RMAGarage

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing your story. This is why I started the channel....to help those who have the ability but not necessarily the exact how to.

Thank you for the video. Any difference with the rear brakes?

@RMAGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, the rear brakes are different. Check out our video for the rear brakes: kzread.info/dash/bejne/fmWoy5hyeLfPh7w.html

@davethenerd42

2 жыл бұрын

@@RMAGarage oh snap, got that egg on my face

@davethenerd42

2 жыл бұрын

@@RMAGarage one big question I had when I started the front brakes, which I couldn't for the life of me find anywhere, was whether or not to set the parking brake before beginning. I read through at least ten different "change your brake pads" articles. There was one random video I came across which said to do it, so I did it. The answer was yes, set the parking brake.

@RMAGarage

2 жыл бұрын

@@davethenerd42 Thanks fir the information and the comment.

Do we have to change the rotor once you change the break pad?

@RMAGarage

3 жыл бұрын

If the rotor does not have any grooves on the surface and is still within the manufacturer's minimum thickness, then the rotors do not need to be replaced. This is my wife's car and she is always hard on the brakes and the rotors were warped from stopping short. That is why I replaced the rotors. Having said that, my personal preference is to change the rotors with the brakes just because I know everything is new and smooth when stopping. Thanks for the question and interest.

@kalani1987

3 жыл бұрын

Either change the rotors or resurface them if within specs. You will be doing the new pads a favor

@brucewightman5168

3 жыл бұрын

most likely ,most rotors are through aways and MOST GARAGES DO NOT REFACE THEM ANYMORE , IT CAST 60 TO 75 $ TO REFACE MAY AS WEELL BUY NEW ONES

@brucewightman5168

3 жыл бұрын

IF YOUR IN SPEC AND LOOK GOOD THEN GOM AHEAD BUT MOST ROTORS ARE JUNK AND WARP .

Should tell the sizes of bolts and wrenches to help

@RMAGarage

11 ай бұрын

Good Point - will do that in future videos. Thanks for the comment.

Great job! Is your son available to fix my brakes?

@RMAGarage

3 жыл бұрын

Maybe we should start our own service garage.

That packet of grease should really go on the backing plate of the pad only. If you want to lube the clips, use a light coat of antiseize. Also threadlocker is best for the bracket bolts, not antiseize

@RMAGarage

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your comments. Looking back, thread locker probably would have been the better choice.

santa fe factory brakes don't even come with those springs

@RMAGarage

9 ай бұрын

Interesting.....Thanks for the Comment.

throw the springs in garbage , and the screws holding the rotor to the hub ,, there to piss you off lol seriously

@jh910101

2 жыл бұрын

That is my question. Do I really must install the steel springs and 2 screws that hold the rotor? Is it a MUST?