You are a true professional..... knowledgeable, accurate, and extremely helpful ! Thank you for this excellent video!

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Great video all the information short and sweet, no wasted time no droning on. Very clear presentation.

@PartsDr

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you!!!

Excellent video, really well explained and concise. I've now used this video to repair two fridge freezers and an upright freezer, all for the cost of a few pounds for the start relay or overload device. Thanks for making such a clear and simple to follow guide.

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

Nice job diagnosing and fixing those!

Great video, i was able to diagnose a faulty compressor relay on my moms fridge. Failed the shake test and the multimeter test. replaced the relay and capacitor for $10, works great!! Thank you sir!

@PartsDr

4 жыл бұрын

Awesome! Nice job on the repair!

Very good video. You know your craft very well. I am an old retired appliance repair servicer but have not serviced a refrigerator since 1978 when I began servicing only TV sets. My refrigerator stopped cooling so I started the process of troubleshooting without any tools or test equipment. The refrigerator has been in operation for 23 years with proper cleaning. I had a severe neck injury six years ago resulting in me not being able to do normal cleaning. I also forgot to clean the condenser coil rack. Both the refrigerator and freezer temperature was 72 degrees with the evap and cond fans running. The compressor was warm with the overload protector cycling every minute or so. When the compressor would try to start the cabinet interior light would dim a little for less than a second. At this point, I thought the problem was a restricted condenser rack. I had also noted that a handy dandy door towel was preventing the refrigerator door from closing properly. I had suggested several times over the years that the door handle towel while cute was bad for the proper operation of the unit. I looked under the refrigerator and saw more lint buildup than I had ever witnessed before. I got out the vacuum cleaner and did a partial cleaning with the crevice\brush tool. The unit began to cool down so I turned the Tstat off and informed my wife that we had bad problems and that she should empty the unit and clean the interior before the repairman could take it to his shop for service. I also told her that I had to clean under the refrigerator and run some tests before calling for service. All of the above has been completed and the unit started cooling for about thirty minutes. I tested the temps three hours later to discover the compressor had stopped running again. Puzzled, I called an old friend to help me pull the unit out from under the cabinets that had been built around the unit. The carpenter had failed to leave enough height for the unit and so it had been wedged under the cabinet with less than zero clearance. The wheels on the bottom had permitted enough give for this to happen. With the unit away from the wall; I was able to completely clean out the condenser and compressor cavity. I think the start capacitor does not have enough capacitance to start the compressor now but I cannot figure out why the compressor stopped cooling a couple of hours following the first partial cleaning. I plan on ordering the start relay and capacitor before deciding to contact one of you younger guys. My wife would love a new smart fridge but with fixed retirement income that purchase will be a "real trick". It seems possible that the compressor start un internal windings may now have a problem that causes something within the windings or the relay to open after a few hours of run time. This could have been caused by the compressor running close to the FLR amps and temperature because of the dirty comp rack and\or the door handle towel preventing the complete door closure for many years. Do you have any thoughts? If a new start relay and cap does not fix the problem; should I have a new compressor installed or purchase a new unit? I will have to quit eating and give up my fast internet service to pay for the new unit. :-)

@PartsDr

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Jerry, if the start relay and capacitor don't resolve your issue it usually isn't very cost effective to replace the compressor so we usually recommend replacing the refrigerator. If your refrigerator has a condenser fan motor on the back to dissipate the heat, make sure that it is working properly.

After a complete defrost and cleaning my freezer wouldn't start back up . This is a Perfect Instructional Video , Helped me out and diagnosed my problem .. Local appliance store had a replacement upgrade in stock , $20. later we are back to freezing , Just in time for the side of beef coming this week . Saved me from purchasing a new freezer or costly repair man. Thanks very much .

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

Great to hear! Nice job with the repair!

Thank you for the great video and troubleshooting steps. My 20 year old Whirlpool stopped cooling. I followed your steps and found the continuity test failed also rattled so I ordered the relay. Installed it today now I have ice cubes again. Thanks again !

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

That is great to hear, thank you for the feedback! Nice job fixing it yourself!

Thank you so much, exactly what I needed. Fixed my own fridge. Had a bad relay.

@PartsDr

3 жыл бұрын

Awesome! Nice job!

You the Man. Thank you. Great instruction. Straight to the point. Turns out I have a bad overload on a brand new Freezer. Great breakdown of each test. I like how you separated each part. Now to find the right replacement. Thank you.

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

Glad you narrowed it down to a bad overload. You can always search for parts on our site partsdr.com

@SF-hd5ds

2 жыл бұрын

@@PartsDr Yes. Thank you. I actually did check your site but the freezer is a Danby Brand. I used the chat to talk to an agent but they said they don't have parts for Danby Brand. So the search continues. Honestly the overload part all look the same but have different HP perimeters when I search for them. So a little confused on which one would work. If my math is correct (V x W ÷ 745.8) gives me 18.5 HP. Sooooo ya. Haha

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

@@SF-hd5ds Thanks for checking with us. Overloads are very specific and hard to match correctly unless you get the exact OEM part. Try reaching out to the manufacturer directly to see if they can assist you. Sometimes these cheaper appliances won't have parts available for them.

You have gained a powerful ally this day. Gratitude.

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Thanks for a straight forward explanation :) Cheers!

@PartsDr

4 жыл бұрын

🙂

This was unbelievably helpful thank you! I just inherited a 20 year old GE that stopped cooling. Figured out it was the relay. Cheap fix!

@PartsDr

3 жыл бұрын

That is awesome!

@lennyleejr7763

Жыл бұрын

@@PartsDr hello I have a tssu-48-12 prep fridge. Recently we had several power outages and the wires going to the overload relay burned and the fridge was warm in the inside. I change out the overload and the start relay but now the compressor is short cycling! Did I connect the wires wrong or ?

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

@@lennyleejr7763 It sounds more like a bad compressor from what you are describing, but we can not diagnose problems over comments.

@lennyleejr7763

Жыл бұрын

@@PartsDr so how should I go about checking the compressor? Would ohming out the terminals work and get my answer or is there’s another way to check it? Thanks for your reply really appreciate!

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

@@lennyleejr7763 You can ohm the windings of the compressor. But there are some things you can't check because the compressor is a sealed unit and you can't see everything.

Fantastic videos! Always clear, concise, and thorough. Now, if only I had a multimeter with continuity and capacitance on it... birthday present idea!

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you! That is a good idea! A good multimeter is something you will have in your toolbox for years. Merry Christmas!

@gemstorm16

2 жыл бұрын

Your video saved my entire fridge of food on Christmas Eve! I would have paid a technician, except I couldn't find one who was working Christmas Eve. But once I was able to determine the start capacitor relay was bad I was able to find one who would sell me the part! Definitely the easiest appliance repair I have ever done! THANK YOU!

Thank you for making this video straight and to the point plus easy to follow. Thanks again!

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

You're welcome!

Thank you so much!!! I followed your steps and had the exact same issue as one of your examples!!!

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

Great! Glad to hear that you were able to narrow down the problem!

Thank you so much! Just bought a GE freezer from 88' and it immediately stopped working the next day. I have been struggling to find anyone to show how to fix an older model. Now I know the start relay is good because of your video. I just have to keep narrowing down the issue on why it short cycles if the compressor, thermistor (guardette), and the start relay are still going strong.

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

Great!

i just used this video and now have a fixed and working drinks fridge again, THANKYOU

@PartsDr

3 жыл бұрын

Nice job! 🍻

Thanks for this video. The only one that helps me understand all the different types of relays and how to test them.

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

Great! We are glad you found this helpful!

Best and most accurate videos out there- and bought parts from you as a result.

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Best instruction for relay or capacitor I’ve seen thanks

@PartsDr

3 жыл бұрын

Great! We are glad you found it helpful!

Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. Using your guidance I found the capacitor to be bad and the relay was good on my GE fridge. Thanks to you I just saved $1800 on a new refrigerator.

@PartsDr

3 жыл бұрын

Excellent! Nice job!

Great video man. I'm gonna be learning a lot from you

@PartsDr

4 жыл бұрын

Awesome!

Thanks very much for stating the required ohm values instead of just saying continuity exists. That helps me to determine if the part is good or defective.

@DrakeMichaelFTM

Жыл бұрын

I watched soo many vids that said this same thing. Very frustrating

Very helpful video. The modern start relay in my Maytag failed the shake test but the impedance was OK. It would work but overload every so often. Via an HBN meter I noticed the surge was not excessive, just 800 watts when the compressor started, 150 watts once it was running, so the compressor seems to be in good condition. I disassembled the relay and squirted tuner cleaner on all of the contactors. Lo and behold, it worked after reassembly but I ordered a replacement anyway. I find tuner cleaner will resolve many intermittent problems. While it was out, I checked the capacitor for microfarads. Mine was good.

Love how straight forward you provide this information! New sub! Can't wait to watch all your other videos ❤

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Good clear and to the point. I ordered a new overload protector and it tested zero continuity nor ohms out of the box, what a joke. Will be returning it.

Fantastic documentation, great work. Definitely will be visiting PartsDr. Love the shots of inside the start device (3:49), showing how it works. I'm guessing the little "wheel" is magnet with conductive coating on two surfaces, that slides back and forth to complete circuit when needed. My overload (cheap aftermarket) did not have continuity, took apart and it had tiny wire under the disc that had disconnected or blown (not even sure a proper genuine part should have a wire under there). Wondering if it's possible to convert from a start device (combo relay, overload) to instead use the separate relay and overload? For my old Whirlpool ET1FHMXMT01, parts list does actually include numbers for the separate relay and overload (and wire for capacitor). Would only need to figure out the wiring and connectors. Also wondering how those "3-in-1 hard starts" work and look like inside.

Hey man! Just want to say thank you for the video. I tested my relay and it was bad, cap was good. Ordered both just in case, and my fridge is back up and running! Was $160 with next day shipping. None of my local appliance shops had the part in stock. The fridge is 14 years old so we're going to replace it anyway, but this extra life affords us some time to make a good decision and not feel pressured by availability. If you're taking suggestions, I'd suggest a vid with a cheap/normal multimeter. Fluke is the best of course, but weekend warriors probably don't have that nice of a unit. I had to bridge the two back connections where the wire hardness connects, then test continuity pin to pin on the three pins that plug into the condenser. I couldn't test like you did with your multimeter. Thanks again, and have a great weekend!

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

Nice job fixing it yourself! Thanks for the feedback.

Good and clear instructions. Do you have one for testing the compressor? I fridge is not cold. Evaporator and parts seems to be working. Thanks

I have the small black type. Part number says QP2-12. I think this means 12 Ohm? It's easy to unclip and open so I looked inside and the ceramic disc looks fine, but it measures aboout 20 Ohms. Is this a high enough resistance to cause a problem? When I turn the small freezer on, it hums a little like it wants to run but can't, and then the overload clicks off.

Thanks. Very clear and concise video. Certainly helped me out.

I got a pthas-s that is a 3 hole all in one. Can this one be purchased or have to get a 2 piece?

Great information. Thanks. I love how you get to the point and not talk and talk and talk.

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

You're welcome!

What is the difference between the 2, 3 and 4 pin PTC relays? Could you use a 3 or 4 pin PTC relay as a replacement for a 2 pin PTC relay? In addition, could you use a different kind of relay instead of a PTC relay? Just trying to understand more about these start relays. Thanks

My Samsung inverter makes circuit breaker of the house go off as soon as the compressor starts. Lately the compressor has been making noise. No short between windings and the ground 11.7ohms between each winding. Do you have any suggestions?

Hi, my overload reads .8 ohms. Is that too high? Also, I'm trying to test the voltage from the control board going to the compressor. I have a red and blue wire going into the relay, and a black into the overload. Not sure which is hot or neutral. If I test red, black, or blue to the ground, I get 120 volts. Otherwise I get very low voltage from black-red, black-blue, or blue-red. Am I doing something wrong? Please help!

I love KZread. This was an excellent tutorial. Even have a referral site to purchase parts!

@PartsDr

10 ай бұрын

Happy we could help!

Ho can I test the overload of the combination style relay (the one you mentioned cannot have a continuity or ahm test done)? How do I do the visual inspection or test power going to the compressor?

Thank you so much sir. The best KZread videos ever!

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

On start relay (which has overload hiding inside the relay - newer style GE side by side refg part no. WR08X10068 ) - I get 0.3 for common and right side (looking at compressor from the front) and on left side I get 7 ohms -- does it confirm start relay is bad?

Clear and precise. Thanks.

This saved me a lot of time. Thanks.

@PartsDr

3 жыл бұрын

Good luck with your repair! Hopefully this helps you out!

I'm confused by this test. If I plug both prongs into the back 2 holes, I get 4.9 ohms. If I plug one prong into one back hole and touch the front, I get OL on one and 4.9 ohms on the other. Then if I plug one prong into the other back hole and touch the front, I get OL on one and 0.7 ohm on the other. What does this mean for this start relay?

Thanks to your video I could determine that my starter relay was indeed faulty. But how do I find a replacement? The fridge is noname, the compressor is an MP14FB, and the relay says “mtrp 5131” on it. Any help appreciated.

Thanks for this! Excellent presentation and explanation.

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

You're welcome!

Thank you for the video!

@PartsDr

3 жыл бұрын

We are glad you found it helpful!

Excellent video; just fixed my $2K Whirlpool refrigerator with a $20.00 relay from Walmart, thank you.

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

Nice job fixing it yourself!

Hi - great video! I have a relay similar to the white one (timestamp 2:00). The disc is fine and I get a good ohm reading, however, I do not get continuity with the ground to either pole on the side that the capacitor plugs in to. Is this another indication that the relay is bad?

Short and precise, thank you very much.

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

You're welcome!!

I'm not sure where you are connecting to for the "bottom" on the ohm check. Mine doesn't look like this.

this channel is going to help me get my next pay raise at work. thanks for a great page.

@PartsDr

3 жыл бұрын

Awesome! 💰💰💰

My JennAir JWC2450ARS wine cooler parts are "discontinued". My starter relay readings are all over the place. Can I just buy another brand and take the ceramic disc out and put it in mine? 5 ohm?

drb174n61a1 overload relay tested with meter to have continuity but OHM reads 1.4. IS this considered a bad overload?

thank you very much for your knowledge sharing...❤️❤️

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

We are glad you found it helpful!

You (and Project Farm) are God's gifts to the Internet, lol. Thank you for this video!

@PartsDr

5 ай бұрын

You're welcome!!

I have the Relay you show at the 1:25 mark and it reads 5.5 ohms and does not rattle. I have the Overload you show at the 2:25 mark and it reads 0.6 ohms. In short, everything works on my GE GBS22KBSBCC refrigerator except the fridge will not go below 40F and the freezer will not go below 33F. So, what would not allow strong cooling .....if the start relay was bad or the capacitor? Defroster, thermistors, evaporator fan, condenser fan are all working and the coils are spotless. I even checked the three prongs on the condenser and got a 8.4 ohm on the two main prongs, 4.5 ohms on the left and 4.2 ohms on the right. My Embraco 1PH condenser has a label on the side reading "LRA of 11.5 EGU 70HLC' 115 - 127 V". My multimeter read 0.8 amps when it is running. The Capacitor multimeter read 11.85 uF (210 VAC 50/60 Hz @ 12 uF). Some history - In July 2016 I did had a technician add R 134a and in October 2018 I had to add an evaporator thermistor since my evaporator coils were an iceberg and it was not triggering the defrost mode; refrigerator was warm but freezer worked fine. NOTE: I made a video of the Start Relay arcing with the Overload when the compressor was called for power; there was just a click sound but no compressor. Then, 90 seconds later, it called on it again and the compressor hummed away. When I took it apart again the Star Relay gave the same reading but I noted it was VERY hot. Could this Relay still be bad but not activating all the time thus overheating because it is sometimes working? If so, maybe this is why the temperatures cannot catch up. With that said, I do not know the spec for my compressor amps but had some hand written notes from the 2006 technician (when he filled my R143a) stating the original amps were 0.7 and after he added 4.5# the amps were 1.55. His notes also read "spec = 1.5 to 1.7 amps). Should I purchase a new Relay and, if so, is it "good practice" to purchase a new Overload, also? They are very pricy at $76 and $80, respectively......for a piece of plastic! ANY direction would be greatly appreciated by you.

Hi. This is what I have, does it indicate a bad relay? Whirlpool WRT111SFDW03. 7 years old. 11.2 cu ft size. Freezer on top. Start relay P/N: WPW10448874, aka W10448874. Capacitor ("cap") P/N: WPW10662129 Test relay connections with capacitor on the relay. Results: when together I can get cap to charge and discharge thru the start relay, just like it does when it's off the relay. With cap off and on, neither of the lower holes have continuity with each other. The hole on lower left has 0.0 ohms resistance thru the bottom blade of the back of the plug. The lower right hole has no continuity with anything but can be used to charge the capacitor for testing. The upper hole has 0.1 ohm resistance to the top blade on the opposite side. Remove relay cover and visually check. I cannot get combination relay apart without breaking it, so I haven't committed to that, yet. Ohm test the fridge compressor pins again. Make sure the Common (top) and lower pins are within 3 ohms. And the two pins at bottom should read about the sum of the Common with the Start and Run pins. See KZread video... Results: Top and Lower Right : 4.4 ohm. Top to Lower Left: 6.0 ohm. Two bottom pins: 10.4 ohm. None of the pins are shorted to ground. My problem is it suddenly stopped cooling without noises or warning, but I caught it from hearing loud buzzing noise from compressor and relay area, and compressor was very hot. No smoke or smells though, and wires did not seem to be hot. Do you think it's the combination relay? Thanks!

Thank you. Very thorough and helpful!!

@PartsDr

5 ай бұрын

You're welcome!! Happy to help!

Having done repairs of all types but not being a master in anything, I've realized most systems focus on the heart of the system, the workhorse. The AC Compressor is that heart. I wish your video focused on testing the compressor. Too often we look to the small parts to heal our wounds. Money is made on those, but be a little more thorough before you throw money into a hope. If we test the compressor always as part of the common tests, we just replace the compressor or buy a new or used fridge unit.

@user-hx1ox3um9m

9 ай бұрын

Testing the run cap and start relay is where you should start. I have come behind other techs who called for a new compressor, and in reality, it was the start relay or run cap. It just happened with an Americana fridge. It was the SR and not the compressor. I replaced the SR and it works just fine. Just saved the. Ustomer hundreds.

to the point and concise, thanks!

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

You're welcome!

Am trying to detect fault on my freezer, My PTC relay has continuity but the resistance is 16.6ohms. Does this means the relay is bad.

My overload reads 0.8ohm. Is that too high? My old style relay works, and reads well below 5 ohm at 0.8ohm as well.

Thanks for doing this!!! Great video.

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

You're welcome!

Where is the video on how to check the run capacitor? I don't see it listed in your videos. Thanks.

@PartsDr

3 жыл бұрын

The capacitor testing video can be found here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/gqF_lqOrpLWboLQ.html

In case it helps anyone I had combination style start relay that would test OK, but trigger overload when in the fridge with clicking noise. Replacing it even though it read OK resolved the issue. This is because by the time you take out and measure the overload, if it's not completely dead it could have reset (this would be especially true if you hear clicking sounds and the fridge works sometimes vs not at all). So don't just take the reading for single reason to call your compressor bad.

@PartsDr

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback, that is good advice! We have also seen the same thing happen when the start relay is on its way out.

@ChevoMKY5.7

2 жыл бұрын

I may have that problem cus my relay said 54 Homs

The white and red wires touched and the fridge shorted out on the relay. What could possibly be the fix?

Perfect. Great work!

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

which relay type is fit for SZ90E1J compressor

Hi Ryan, I have a question that maybe you can help me with. I have an old Electrolux E42BS75EPS built-in side by side. When I turn on the unit it gets cold in both the fridge and the freezer for about a day or so and then the temp starts to raise in both compartments. If I turn the unit off for a while. maybe 24 hours and sometimes even less it will get cold again but then it goes back warm. I had servicer's come out and no one seems to know the issue. I put a new board in it so I know that's not the issue. My question is...is the refrigerator fan suppose to run constantly? I'm thinking maybe the fan motor has a short or something because the fan works when the unit come on but then it stops spinning after while but I'm not sure if that's normal or not. Any advice will be appreciated.

@makemefamousfilms7426

4 жыл бұрын

Tim USA Thanks for the reply Sir. So I have been monitoring the fridge since I sent this message out to you. I pulled out the compressor fan motor and found that the metal stem from the motor connected to the plastic fan was stuck and would not turn. I used some needle nose pliers and turned it. It became unstuck. I put the fan assembly back in and the fridge works. However the freezer temp would go up and down during the day. No more than 20 degrees but then it goes back down to 0. The fridge compartment stays at 37,38 degrees and goes no higher than that. I ordered a new fan assembly because they don’t sell the motor separately for this particular model because it’s so old (2007). I’m thinking maybe I don’t even need the fan assembly because going up to 20 degrees and back down to 0 isn’t so bad. The food and ice in the fridge remain frozen. Your thoughts? Should I still pull the panel in the freezer compartment? Thanks.

Thank you so much 💕 Problem is rectified.

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

Nice job! Great to hear.

If the appliance still pulls starting wattage and eventually clicks, is this a sign the compressor couldn’t start and may be bad or the relay may be malfunctioning? After plugging into a larger wire with less impedance, the appliance seemed to work well (for now). Guessing its because less voltage drop. Consistently over the last 4 months my units range temp has gone from -2 to zero up to 7-9. It’s been a rather gradual increase minus two jumps. Thanks for any help in advance!!

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

It sounds like it is trying to start and then tripping out on the overload. This is most commonly caused by a bad start relay but it can also be caused by a bad compressor.

Very helpful. Thanks!

@PartsDr

25 күн бұрын

Great! We are glad we could help!

..but, how do you wire the separate pieces if the combination piece is not available?

hi there nice video i have a whirlpoo double door model 20RI-D4 A+ PT refrigerator the compressor and both fans are off the fridge is not on standby I checked the control panel, it's showing both temperatures cheked the relay it seems ok what can be the problem please? thanks

Subscribing... no background music thus listening clearly is at 100%

@PartsDr

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

This is a brilliant video, thank you Parts Dr - your presentation and knowledge is exceptional. I do have a question: the relay and overload protector on my LG fridge, I suspect, are both damaged: the start relay gives 30ohms of resistance, but passes the continuity test; the overload protector sometimes passes continuity and sometimes gives resistance readings, even when contacts are very stable. Sadly, LG doesn't specify the exact parameters of the overload protector and doesn't supply spares in my country. The compressor is a 155w one, so I ordered both a generic 1/4 (180w) and 1/5 HP (150w) overload protector for it - Parts Dr, which one would you use, the 1/4 or the 1/5? I also ordered a generic start relay, it was the only one I could find in the country, so I do hope it works. Thank you so much again for your wonderful video and for any help you can offer.

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

The overloads a specific to each compressor and we can only suggest to use the OEM overload suggested by the manufacturer. Hypothetically, if you couldn't get access to the OEM overload and had to use a generic, you would want to try using the one that is slightly under rated than over rated. Using a higher wattage rating overload can be a fire hazard and you can also potentially damage the compressor. Hopefully that helps!

@PythosianMan

2 жыл бұрын

@@PartsDr This is a brilliant answer and exactly what I needed, thank you Parts Dr, truly appreciate it. Sadly, OEM spares for my fridge seem to have been discontinued about a decade ago and none are to be found anywhere. Hopefully the generic starter relay works as well. But the advice regarding the wattage of the overload compared to the compressor itself is precisely the guidance I needed; thank you once again.

thanks for this great informative video

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

My refrigerator (Samsung RS277ACRS/XAA-0000) stopped working after a power outage. The ohm readings on the compressor are: C-S: 0.4 ohm C-R: 3.4 ohm I was wondering if such a low reading on the start winding is normal for this model. The Start Relay (thermistor, DA35-00135A) was not showing continuity (R = 1300 ohms), so I replaced it. The new one couldn't start the compressor either. When I test the new one, it also does not have continuity (R = 4000 ohms). I do no know if I got a bad start relay, or my compressor is bad, and the by pulling too much current burns the start relays. The overload protector has continuity, and seems to be fine.

@PartsDr

2 ай бұрын

We don't know what is normal for compressor ohm values on this model. Some are normally lower like that. We haven't heard of a good start relay having that high of resistance values. The overload usually protects the compressor and relay from over current situations.

Thank You, maybe you can help me. The start relay I have has a broken chip inside. The Whirlpool refrigerator is about 30 years old. Model #EB22DKXWN01. I need part # 1101014 the start relay, but is discontinued with no part I can find to replace it. It looks like the 2nd one on your table next to the wire one. I've found some that resemble it and also found the disk that goes inside but my problem is all of them have different Ohms, 12,15,22 and 33. Which one should I get? I know nothing about Ohms or refrigerators. My compressor has nothing on the paper on it. I already had a Whirlpool repair man come by and never even checked anything. He told me it was the compressor because it was warm and made clicking sounds. Wish I checked KZread before giving $89. away.

Thanks. My relay is toast, no continuity and pieces are falling out of it. My OLP has continuity but it reads .8, not .3 or .4. I wonder if I need to replace that too?

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

Glad you found the bad relay. The overload is most likely good.

Thank u good discription When ptc relay return cool condition It conect again?

@PartsDr

3 жыл бұрын

The overload will open (no continuity) at higher temperatures and close (have continuity) when cooled down to room temperature. But the PTC relay itself shouldn't vary by temperature.

Thank you very much for the video now I know that my new relay n thermostat her OK so I could eliminate that as the issue my compressor gets boiling hot and the inside of the mini fridge nothing like I didn't even turn on the air the light does turn on though lol any clue ? Bad Compressor? The multimeter already told me the thermostat is good and the relay is good I have a galanz mini fridge

I have one of those newer white style ones and mine is reading around 35 ohms. Is this bad ?? You said around 5 ohms is good but I'm not sure if 35 is a problem. The compressor will start and run but will cut out on O/load after around 20 mins.

@PartsDr

3 жыл бұрын

35 ohms is higher than most that we see. But usually if the relay is bad, the compressor will not start at all. Assuming that the condenser fan motor is working and dissipating the heat, the compressor could be bad?

Question, do those round ptc thernistor discs inside ever fail ? Ive inspected mine and its in one piece but on the plastic casing outside and inline with the disc there are orangy heat marks ? Its in one piece so im guessing its good ?

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

Usually if the disc is in one piece, it is good. Try testing the ohm values to see if they are similar to what is shown in the video.

@justmadeit2

2 жыл бұрын

@@PartsDr Where do i put the red and black wires on my multi meter to test it ? Im new to this kinda stuff but kean to learn. Can you recommend any books for a beginner regarding multi meters and circuits, electronics etc ?

Excellent video!

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Nice video. Thank you.

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

You're welcome!

Thanks for information

@PartsDr

Ай бұрын

You're welcome!

Great explanations. Really appreciated the proffessionally done video.

@PartsDr

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you! We are glad you found it helpful!

Hi I have a 4 yr old Whynter wine cooler that stopped cooling and the compressor wont turn on. The compressor has good continuity between the 3 posts (19, 10, 9 ohms readings), the start relay and overload both test good and I'm getting 120 V at the wires that plug into them but it still doesn't run!? Any ideas on what else to check? Thanks!

@PartsDr

10 ай бұрын

It is most likely an internal failure of the compressor.

Very good but, how do you remove the overload protection thingy ? got it....with lots of patience and a fine steel spudger..... Opening the relay itself is a chore ... On the electronic board, the active tyristor that goes bad is a BTA212 ... mine simply opened so it's easier to buy a new relay.

@PartsDr

7 ай бұрын

Thanks for sharing! How did you determine that the BTA212 triac had failed?

Thanks for your video. I'm wondering if the relay is bad on my Frigidaire FFTR1821QW9B. - Burning smell coming from the bottom. No burning smell inside freezer or fridge - Compressor seems to never turn off - Fridge and freezer are both at correct temp and cooling. FYI. I have not pulled it out to test at this time. Do you think it is the relay, capacitor or something totally different?

@PartsDr

10 ай бұрын

We would start by looking at the relay and testing it as they can sometimes burn up inside when they fail and cause a burning smell to come from it.

Right to the point. Thanks

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

You're welcome!

Thank you so much! My multi-meter show 0.07 reading for the overload test is it ok?

@PartsDr

10 ай бұрын

Yes, that sounds like a good reading.

Hi, thank you for your work. My situation - small vine fridge overheats the overload protector after 10 seconds, taking around 9amps from the outlet before it happens, but the compressor is not humming during those 10 seconds. The condenser fan works fine, the compressor ohms seem correct - 5.3ohm, 5.1ohm and 10.4ohm. The voltage between the pins is 120v, before it shuts off. I even tried to apply the voltage directly to S pin for a sec, and then to R pin but again there was no humming/vibrating by the compressor.

@PartsDr

10 ай бұрын

It sounds like the compressor is bad and is locked up.

Thanks for the helpful video. My fridge is cold but the freezer isn't. Could it be the compressor start relay problem? I have switched the fridge on and off, pressed the power freeze + freezer button for 8+ seconds to reset the system; unscrewed the back panel of the freezer - checked that there is no ice block there; cleaned the dust off the coils at the back...The freezer temperature oscillates from 11C to 22C by itself... but never to -20C which is what we need. It's a 10 year old Samsung fridge. Am concerned that maybe it's a broken thermostat rather than the start relay - and me messing with the start relay could cause the fridge to break down as well. Any advice please? Many thanks.

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

That doesn't sound like a start relay problem. When the start relay fails, you will normally not get any cooling at all in both refrigerator and freezer sections.

Great information! Thank you, you saved me a service call!

@PartsDr

4 жыл бұрын

Awesome!

I have a model ED5LTAXVL01 Whilpool not cooling both sides compressor runs all the time I have a black small starter relay on it so what could cause the no cold

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

Check to see if the evaporator fan motor is running and if the evaporator coil is full of frost.

..excellent video, still waiting for an answer for question posed 8 months ago!

Hello I have the second type of relay (the small black one with no coil), and i tested it and it had a beep but the ohm reading is 37, the problem was that i would hear the motor trying to start for like 3 seconds then a click sound before it stops and this is repeated every like 10 minutes, is the relay bad with those readings or is it the compressor? thanks for your help

@PartsDr

2 жыл бұрын

An ohm reading of 37 is higher than what we normally see on most start relays. It might be worth trying to open to relay up to see if it is broken inside like we show in the video.

My Kenmore 15 years old does not have a start capacitor but the online part's list has one. I installed one. Good or bad? Please comment. My wife heard clicking is the reason I put a new start relay and today added the capacitor.

@PartsDr

Жыл бұрын

It sounds like you probably did the correct thing. To be certain you would need to contact the manufacturer.