Wow! Thanks Paul, I did the most beautiful richest stain job I ever saw by following your procedure in this video!

@paulsDIYsolutions

8 ай бұрын

Glad to hear Charlie. It's not hard once someone lays out the basics. Thanx for watching and commenting. best . . . paul

Paul, thank you for the vids! Your technique helped my refinish of a wood top turn out awesome. No more dipping a rag. Flood and wipe is the way!

Thank you so much for all your knowledge!!

@paulsDIYsolutions

9 ай бұрын

Can you share that sentiment with my wife??

Great collections of instructional videos. THANKS, I have never done better finsishes

@paulsDIYsolutions

Ай бұрын

Hey David. Glad to hear. It's not rocket science once someone lays out the basics. Thanx for watching and commenting. best . . . paul

Just found you, love watching + learning

Learning lots from you thank you for sharing your knowledge

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

You're welcome Malissa. Thanx for watching and your feedback. Be sure to print step-by-step summary sheets available on my website www.paulsDIY.solutions they're nice to have close by while you're working. You'll also find a written detailed outlines of most of my finishing techniques. best . . . paul

Very helpful thank you!

@paulsDIYsolutions

6 ай бұрын

You're welcome Julian. Thanbx for watching and commenting. best . . . paul

He has the best instructions you’re gonna find if you use his method it comes out excellent

@paulsDIYsolutions

5 ай бұрын

Thanx Skip. Appreciate the feedback and recommendation. Glad to be a part of the journey. best . . . paul

LOVE your videos, Paul! Like yourself, I've been making sawdust for going on 40 years yet staining and finishing are areas I rarely seem to get right. Forget about mastering them, I just want to be *good* at them! I didn't realize how substandard my knowledge was until watching your videos. I've learned more from this and your other videos than any other source I know, especially your vid on applying poly. That was a master class for me. I'm in the final stages of making a barn door using cherry and roasted poplar and I've been dreading staining and finishing it for fear of messing it all up. I'll practice your tips and techniques on some scrap but I'm confident I'll get it looking nice. Thanks again for the help! ~John

@paulsDIYsolutions

10 ай бұрын

Hey Proud. Thanx I'm humbled! I was fortunate early in my woodworking to have an older gentleman taech me a lot. There was no KZread or even VHS tapes (clues as to my age) in those days. Happy to share. Thanx for watching and commenting. best . . . paul

This was good!! Thanks.

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 ай бұрын

Glad to be of some help Debby. Thanx for watching and commenting. best . . . paul

Great tips now im off to try it.

@paulsDIYsolutions

8 ай бұрын

Cool UP. I'm here if you have questions. Thanx for watching. best . . . paul

I like this guy!

@paulsDIYsolutions

8 ай бұрын

Thanx Ode. I like you too!!! best . . . paul

This is so well made and I formative thank you so much!! One addition is when you throw your rags etc away put it in a vacuum seal bag with water and get as much air out if that bag as possible as a trash can fire is still not wanted although better than house fire. Tip from a painter

@paulsDIYsolutions

8 ай бұрын

Good tip thanx pennypincher. best . . . paul

I only follow Paul’s method & I have had amazing results, 30 years in metal fab /welding . On my way to being a decent woodworker

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 ай бұрын

Thanx Skip. Wish I knew something about welding. Wanted to take a class at a local community college they wanted close to $500!! Thought I'll stick to wood for awhile. LOL. best . . . paul

Paul-Thanks for some really informative and well-produced videos. You stick to the subject and you are a good teacher/presenter. A rare combination on KZread. I appreciate your style and the pdf notes with the videos. I would like to know more about dyeing wood and how to use dyes and wood stains or other finishes together. Do you plan to do a video on this? Thanks again. Ron

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Ron. I use a lot of wood stains but I honestly don't use dyes. I have a few videos on wood staining. The best place to learn about dyes is on KZread but check out guitar finisgers. They use dyes a lot. best . . . paul

@ronlacy2507

Жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks, Paul. I appreciate the information.

This is an awesome video!!!! Thank you so much!!!! I’m working on 2 piece dowel Bo staffs for my son. Everything went well until the stain…2 different dowels…ugh now my poly is acting up on my other staff….your tips are super helpful!!!

@paulsDIYsolutions

6 ай бұрын

Hey Lea. Tried looking up dowel Bo because I've never heard of it. Google seems not to know either. What the heck is it? Antway glad to be of some help. Thanx for watching and commenting. best . . . paul

@leahb7883

6 ай бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions well it’s not something you’ll find lol My sons karate instructor said he could use a 4 foot dowel (cheaper than a bo staff) it wasn’t the right height….he’s tall… so I bought two dowels cut to length added a ‘union’ (Home Depot guy called it that- male female looking screw things) and now I have a two piece dowel Bo staff….after much sanding and shaping of course lol- Actually he has 3 staffs now….second poly goes on today and wood burning the stained one…I also made a three piece for fun 🥳 thanks again, please keep doing your awesome videos!

You are officially my KZread Dad. Thank you!!

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 ай бұрын

Hey Mama . Father's Day is June 16th. Where you taken me?? LOL. Thanx for watching. best . . . paul

Thanks! Doing a maple bench top. I will try your tactics.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 ай бұрын

Hey Adam. Be careful staining maple. Hard maple doesn't take stain well. And soft maple blotches. best . . . paul

@adamnorthville5636

3 ай бұрын

Thank you. So far it has been a challenge.

Great video, keep up the good job. Would Acacia be considered a hard or soft wood? Would you condition it before staining?

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey mark. Acacia is an extremely hard wood. It's a breautiful durable, tight grained, water resitant wood that darkens over time. Because of that I have never stained it so I can't comment on that. I would experiment on scrap especially around knots where cut fibers tend to be open and susceptible to blotching. My guess is you won't need a conditioner. In fact I would bet that trying to stain it is a lot like trying to stain hard maple where absorption is an issue. Please let me kow what you figure out and how it reacts if you do stain it. Thanx . . . paul

LOVE your videos SO much. Thank you! Question: I just bought some unfinished oak cabinets for my mud room. I have an existing 13 year old golden oak factory finished (so not very good…) sink cabinet in there. I’d like them all to match, of course! I’m planning on staining them and putting poly on top, as per your videos. Any of your wise knowledge would be so appreciated. Thank you, Paul!

@paulsDIYsolutions

11 сағат бұрын

Hey Chris. Matching is always a challenge. I would suggest you remove the door on the finished cabinet and take to your local big box store. They have manufacturers stain samples. Oak is pretty common so it should be easy. Now the part that requires patience. Stain only the inside of one of you new cabinet doors and then apply a coat or two of your finish over the new stain. Wait til dry and see if it matches. It's tedious but essential to get a match. best . . . paul

@christinamarie5141

4 минут бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions thank you so very much!

HI HI Paul. Your info is great! Thank you. Do you sand between stain coats?

@paulsDIYsolutions

6 ай бұрын

Hey Jr. No. It'll lighten the color. best . . . paul

Can you resend a kitchen cabinet down once you already stained it to get the specs

Thank you for the instructions! I have a choice here between oil-based urethane stains and water-based urethane stains. Are there any concerns I should pay attention to? I did watch your polyurethane finishing video, but I do not think everything would apply to urethane stains? For example the thinning ratio.

@296skipweld

5 ай бұрын

I think polyurethane is so much better just my opinion

Hey Paul - I’m a new hobby woodworker and I’ve been finding your videos SO informative and useful- thank you and keep on keepin on sir!! I do have a question/request: are you familiar with ebonizing? Could you make a video showing how to properly do it? I’m making a stovetop cover for my mom and she wants it to be black but still be able to see the wood grain. Thanks!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Cori. Not familiar with ebonizing but they do have a number of dark wood stains. best . . . paul

@corirandall1614

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the quick reply! Yea I’m not happy so far with my first coat of Ebony on my cheap pine practice piece. I believe I got the sanding, pre-stain and stain technique right. I did feel like I had to keep applying stain to keep the piece totally wet. Despite that and leaving the fully wet stain soaking for about 20 mins, there wasn’t much penetration. I have pics of the wet and wiped piece if you wouldn’t mind taking a look… thanks again!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@corirandall1614 Send them to paulsDIY.solutions Please repost here that you've sent them and I will open the email. I don't get to that email site very often. thanx paul

Thanks for the info. Do You recommend using a conditioner on dried pressure treated plywood?

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Bruce. My itiial response was to type yes but thought Great question! Pressure treated is made from one of the soft woods and soft woods blotch so yes but it's also an outdoor wood which tends to be used in less formal more rustic settings. I think a little blotching in that circumstance would be acceptible maybe even desired. Not sure? Depends on how you are using the wood and the look you want. It's also been treated and I'm not sure if the treatment acts as somewhat of a sealer. I would experiment on scrap if I were you. best . . . paul

On my second I noticed when it was dry there were like little black spots kind of like the wood was damaged.

Hello. I left a comment on an older video, and thought maybe best to comment on a more recent video. I am refinishing a large dining room table that has multiple wood grain directions. I did my best to apply the poly as you shared in another video, but still had a lot of brush strokes visible. I let it dry, then removed the poly to start over. Any advice you could provide on applying poly on a multi grain direction surface would be much appreciated. Just a note, that I have not been a fan of spray on poly on a project as large as this one, but will heed your advice!! Thank you!

@paulsDIYsolutions

10 ай бұрын

Hey User. Spray on's require professional equipment to get a decent finsh. Secondly I would spary lacquer instead of polyurethane as it has many advantages over poly. If brushed properly garin direction matter little. The reason that many advise ti follow the grain is too disguise brush maks. When thinned properly, applied thin and with a good applicator there should be no brush marks whatsoever. Not sure why you got brush marks but I would either recheck the video or refer to my web site for application technique and instruction. best . . . paul

Nice

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thanx DW. best . . . paul

@brucemacdonald1847

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Paul. I'm in the process of rebuilding an older truck camper and will be using the plywood for a new floor. Instead of using linoleum or floor tiles I plan to stain and cover with an epoxy of some kind.

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@brucemacdonald1847 Got it! Fun project. You should have plenty of scrap to experiment with. I prefer to avoid conditioners when possible. They change the absorption patterns of the stain and make staining large areas like yours a little tedious (I like to apply the stain immediately after wiping the conditioner for better absorption) and they tend to be costly. If you do experiment and have a piece of nontreated wood throw a little stain on it and let me know if pressure treated wood stains differently. I really have no idea. Thanx. Good luck.

I'm building a piece with an oak base and poplar half round hand rail stock. Can you give me any tips or warnings about getting an attractive stain? Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

@paulsDIYsolutions

7 ай бұрын

Hey Gee. Here's the problem you are going to run into. Poplar does not stain well no matter what you do. It's a clear straight wood that's nice to work with but it's a wood most woodworkers use when they plan on painting. Oak on the hand is one of the best woods for staining. Absorbs it easily and evenly without blotches. Sorry wish I had a good solution for you. Happy Holidays. best . . . paul

Hi Paul - Thanks for the videos - super fun to watch! I'm wanting to finish a piece using softwood using pre-stain conditioner, then oil based stain. Could I use tung oil as well for the topcoat? I'm seeing some people online say that the oil based stain will seal the wood and make it more difficult for the wood to soak up the tung oil. Thanks again!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Chris. So the pre-stain acts as a weak sealer which tends to retard absorption. I would prestain, stain and then use my combo finish. The combo finish is tung oil and varnish combination so it will deposite some oil but if not completely the varnish holds it firmly on the surface. "THE Best Clear Wood Combination Finish - Refinishing Furniture" kzread.info/dash/bejne/qKyGytOqcd3bfNI.html best . . . paul

@chrisash2801

Жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks for your help and your time Paul!

Awesome video! Would you recommend a pre-stain conditioner for red oak plywood? I am about to try staining for my first time, going with dark cherry. Thank you so much for the knowledge

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 ай бұрын

Hey Trosh. No red oak (plywood or not) takes stain very evenly. A conditioner on oak only weakens the stain. best . . . paul

@troshaffer4921

2 ай бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions awesome thank so much!

Thank You for your videos. I was wondering if you can stain over an already stained wood.

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 ай бұрын

Hey K. That's a loaded question. If there's a clear wood finish over the stain the answer is no. If it's bare wood with yes stain but it will be a combination of the pols color and the new color. No predicting what that might look like. best . . . .paul

@kmehryari6068

2 ай бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions Thank You so much for your response. I guess I will have to sand the old stain out and start from there,

Hi Paul, Although I watched your video(s) a couple of times, I didn't remember how to do it correctly. This is my first project. I brushed sand dust off with a dry brush and then with a damp cloth. I also used water based stained which I know now you don't recommend. And I didn't condition the wood. Not sure what type of wood this is, but it's not blotching. This is just a practice piece. And the wood really soaked in the stain.The problem is that after staining, I noticed a couple of small spots of over spray of primer. Can I resand and reapply stain in small areas? - Tracey

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Tracy. So I'm confused. If thisa is a practoce piece I would just forget it. Now if the good piece has oversparay be sure to get it all off before staining. Matching is REEEEEALLY hard. Even professional refinishers have difficulty. Not sure if I'm on the right track here. Let me know. best . . . paul

I took your advice (different video) And after stripping a 1960 dresser i used butcher block oil to moisturize the wood because i had ORIGINALLY planned to restain it! (I only oiled 1 door) WOW the wood after using the mineral oil is Beautiful!!!!! So the big question is if i NOW want to leave it natural....... what do i do now! Thank you so very much

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey User. I'm a big fan of natural but depending on where the piece will go sometimes stain accents everything around it!! No help, right? Glad it looks good though!! best . . . paul

Hi Paul, my husband and I are planning on retaining western red cedar Timbers on the exterior of our home. We previously used TSW in a natural cedar colour, translucent stain. As our metal roof is brown we plan to go darker this time around in an attempt to match. We have prepped by cleaning with hydrogen peroxide, a scrub brush and lots of elbow grease. If it ever stops aiming the wood will dry out. Our first question is should we use a wood conditioner prior to staining? Second question is do you strongly recommend a particular exterior wood product? We want something with a fungicide in it. We think a brown semi transparent is where we’ll be heading. P.S. We’re on the Canadian side of the border. We also plan to brush on not spray on. TIA!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Sonia. You shouldn't need a conditioner on exterior cedar. Now I've checked and rechecked ratings, reviews and tests on exterior stains/presrvative and none are outstanding. I have used Maxum for the past 30 years. It's been good. best . . . paul

After sanding can you use the lacquer thinner or must it be mineral spirit

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

It can be either.

Would you change anything if it was pressure weather treated wood?

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey DJ. No. Try to find the dryest lumber you possibly can. The problem with pressure treated is it takes around 6 months for the chemical saturation to dry out. Wet wood will not absorb much stain as it;'s pores are full. best . . . paul

Hello Paul and thank you for your videos. I need some (a lot) of guidance as I started my project back in June and have started over and do not want to start over again (used water-based poly... AWFUL! That was before I found your channel). I have a beautiful dining room table I received 20 years ago. I refinished it when I received it because it had sat in a friend's garage for over 20 years prior, collecting dust... my friend's husband bought it at an estate sale 20 years earlier. I want to say the table is Victorian style, it's 5ft in length and the extenders that glide under the table are about a foot and a half at each end, so when the extenders are out, the table is about 8 ft in length. It's a beautiful, beautiful table. The legs are hard to describe... they are round, but they are styled in such a way that it was extremely time consuming to remove the old finish... a lot of crevices' to deal with but worth the time...they are round all the way down but round then small round then fat round then they taper down round again... it's just hard to describe but a lot of detail went into building this piece. I tried to follow your videos and I need some help... (sorry about the long windedness, but just wanted you to know how beautiful and unique this piece is). I stained it dark walnut, it's beautiful, very "rich" looking, but in just a very few areas, the stain looks shiny. It is dry, I stained a week ago. I was told if I proceed with the final step (I'm going to use the Tung oil method from one of your videos, the long Tung method), the shiny spots will NOT show... that the finish will "take care" of this issue... is that true? Thank you again for your videos, your expertise and your time.

@paulsDIYsolutions

11 ай бұрын

Hey C. I am not sure what the "shinny" spots are. If the color is right I would go ahead and apply the first coat of clear finish. Do not sand before napplying this coat and sand very, very lightly with a 220 grit after it has dried. I would recoomend you check out my combo finish which is a tung oil finish with a little spar varnish added. I say a little because in the video I recommend polymerized tung oil and tung oil based spar varnish. The oil is apenetrating finish and the spar varnish is a surface coating. Together thry create a warn, tough luxurious finish. It's easy to apply and hard to screw up. "THE Best Clear Wood Combination Finish - Refinishing Furniture" kzread.info/dash/bejne/qKyGytOqcd3bfNI.html I HOPE THAT HELPS. best . . . paul

@cmussell100

11 ай бұрын

Thank you so much the quick response... The shiny spots are a few areas on the table where it looks like the stain did not dry, but it IS dry... you really can't see them unless you bend down and look when the sun shines on the table, but I'm a little OCD when it comes to "perfection" hence why it's taking me so long to do this table. I just don't want to mess this up. Regarding the finish, I was going to go with the "How to apply Tung Oil properly" PDF sheet. I watched one of your videos and you stated you like the regular Tung Oil (not the polymerized) because it gives a very rich and luxurious finish. I think you mentioned that it takes longer (and I have plenty of time) but you didn't use it very often because customers don't really want to wait long for their finished piece(s). So, I bought the Tung Oil (Hope's 100% Pure) and Paint Thinner to cut it with, per the instructions on the PDF sheet and your video...I don't plan on refinishing this table again, in my lifetime, so do you think the 100% Tung Oil and Paint Thinner directions will be ok? Maybe I was mistaken on the paint thinner part... I feel so lost now LOL... @@paulsDIYsolutions

@cmussell100

11 ай бұрын

I should correct myself.. you said your favorite finish was the Tung Oil 100%

@paulsDIYsolutions

11 ай бұрын

The fact that both finishes are tung oil affords a rich, deep, luxurious look. You'll be fine with either. Polymerized tung oil is super heated and alters it chemically. It helps reduce dry time s drammatically. My only reason for switching to the combo finish in your case is the shny spots you metioned. It might be grain change areas (they sand differently) or it may be missed spots of old finish. The combo finish will adequately cover missed spots the pure tung oil will not. Sorry but I cabn't tell wahts going on without being there. best . . . paul

I did an absolute disaster staining some wooden beams (without preconditioning). Can it be sanded off, so that I can properly re-apply and finish it? Your videos are a god send. Sincere thanks.

@paulsDIYsolutions

8 ай бұрын

Hey Flim. Stain is the one thing that's virtually impossible to correct. Yes you can sand it but be prepared for a real workout!! Sorry we didn't get connected sooner but you're not alone. Wish I had a better option. best . . . paul

very helpful. I just built an island for my kitchen and am scared to deaath to stain and top coat it. I'll keep watching!

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 ай бұрын

Hey Len. What type wood?

@lenorott9875

4 ай бұрын

Thank you, it is maple on framing edges and birch plywood (I think) because I was told it would stain the same. I made an error: I applied water based conditioner a week ago. I haven't stained anything yet, but I have oil based minwax stain. So, I have this problem also and not sure whether to re-sand and apply oil based conditioner. I failed to read the can that said 'apply stain within 2 hours'. Luckily, I only did the drawer fronts with conditioner, not the entire island. Any advice helpful as now I have various problems. Luckily, nothing stained yet, just samples. @@paulsDIYsolutions

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 ай бұрын

Hey Lenor. I see a couple of issues. First off maple used for butcher block is hard maple and that's hard to stain. I had a client with an expanse of butcher block like I've never seen. He wanted this to match his dark flooring. He had a lot of scrap so we did samples. He decided to leave it natural. Mpale was used in butcher shops because its a very tight grain closed pore wood. It doesn't accept stain well. My suggestion is experiment on the underside of you block. Try to see if the stain on both the maple and birch before progressing to top side. Do it both with the conditioner and without. I'm here if you have more questions. best . . . paul

@lenorott9875

4 ай бұрын

Thanks, the top if the 'island' is actually granite. It's the base (sides and drawers) that are plywood and solid maple. They are accepting the stain soooo differently. But here's my question because I wasn't clear with all my rambling before. Question: I applied water based stain conditioner a week ago and never stained the wood....just left it there. Then, I purchased oil (custom color mix) stain. Should I apply oil based conditioner even though I applied water based conditioner last week? If so, should I sand it first, and then apply the oil based pre-stain? Thanks. I called minwax...they told me not to even use a conditioner. I love watching your videos...now I just need to do something! :) @@paulsDIYsolutions

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 ай бұрын

Here's the deal with Maple. There are both hard and soft maple. Hard maple as i said is closed grain and accepts stain poorly. Typically counters are butcher block which is hard maple. Cabinetry is generally made from soft maple it has a tendency to blotch. Here a conditioner is in order. A conditioner seals the wood partially and thus lessens blotching as the satin cannot penetrate as deeply. I would do the inside a cabinet door to experiment with dries conditioner and no conditioner and see which comes out more to your liking. Take your time, now is not the time to rush it. @@lenorott9875

Thanks for this highly informative video. @paulsDIYsolutions - any advice for how to organize the staining of different parts? I've searched to no avail. I am staining 6 pieces of outdoor furniture with lots of slats and I keep finding parts I have missed. For example, stain all the horizontal surfaces first, then the vertical, then turn it over and do the same? I hope this question makes sense.

@traceys5274

5 ай бұрын

I watched another of your videos and notice the part of working at the limit of your reach to the closest which makes perfect sense but I am looking for something more detailed 🙂

@paulsDIYsolutions

5 ай бұрын

Hey Tracey. You have to find what works for you. I typically stain from top to bottom because I usually end with splashes. best . . . paul

Hey paul, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’m building my first cabinet. I have plywood oak . Sanded to 220, conditioned and stained with oil . I’m getting ready to apply poly with your method but I noticed that the cloth rag I used to apply the stain has left behind fibers of the cloth snagged into parts of the grain . There is a lot left behind . Sanding light with 220 sands off the stain , using brown bag doesn’t break the fibers away , 0000 steel wool doesn’t work either . Only method I have found to work is by hand ; combo of rubbing and plucking . I have about 80 sq ft of wood to “clean” . There is a handful of cloth fibers every square INCH or two (quite a lot ) . I Can do it by hand but it will be tedious and time consuming. Wanted to stop here and see if you have ran into this ? How can this be avoided in future and what method have you used to fix in my scenario? Thanks!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey MP. Sorry I don't run into that as I use inexpensive (throw away) chip brushes to apply stain and lint free rags or paper shop rags to wipe off excess. Wish I could be of some help. best . . . paul

So refinishing an oak dinner table for a client does oak need conditioner? And do you suggest water popping the oak grain?

@paulsDIYsolutions

9 ай бұрын

Hey PRS. I don't seal oak. Yes I would wet the wood to raise the grain first, best . . . paul

Hi Paul, I have a question. How do I stain and poly the trim around vinyl windows without getting the stain and poly on the vinyl. What do you suggest?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 ай бұрын

Hey Julie. That's a tuff one. Taping won't work because stain is so liquidy. Sorry but I really don't have an easy (or good) solution. best . . . paul

I've always thrown my used rags into an empty (used) paint or polyurethane can and then hammered the lid shut. When the can is full then I throw it away. Does that sound like a risky practice? Thanks

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Lana. You are good. Rags need oxygen and a draft to combust spontaneously. Thanx for watching. best . . . paul

thank you for the video, question what sealer should i use? i am working with a pine table top, i used an oil based stain. thank you Raul

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Raul. You don't need a sealer. Since it's satined don't sand just apply your first coat of polyurethane then do a very light sandinh with a 220 rit paper. best . . . paul

@RAULOJEDA-fl5bn

Жыл бұрын

Mr. Paul, I applied one coat so far of polyurethane on the tabletop, but I am getting wet and dry looking spot as the table dried. How can I fix this issue to get a smooth and even look? if you can give me the magic remedy? I am making this BOHO table for my granddaughter, and I want it looking great for her, thank you in advance. Raul.

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@RAULOJEDA-fl5bn Hey Raul. That's normal. Polyurethane is a surface coating which means it lays on top of wood. Wood sometimes sucks it up in certain areas. The next coat should lay even. You are okay just apply the next coat the same as the first coat. Keep me posted.

@RAULOJEDA-fl5bn

Жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions Do i need to give it a little sand? or just apply a second coat? I truly appreciate your feedback as I am new at this.

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@RAULOJEDA-fl5bn Light sand with a 220 grit is perfect.

Hey Paul, thank you for your detailed videos, they are so insightful! I have a cherry wood dresser from the 1990s that has a blemish in the finish only (something was set on it that melted/dissolved the finish and left an indention in the finish). There doesn’t appear to be any discoloration of the wood stain below. Is it possible to sand or otherwise remove the finish layer without reaching the stain so that a new finish can be reapplied, without having to sand to bare wood and restain/finish? I’m not sure what caused the blemish, it was there when we bought it.

@paulsDIYsolutions

6 ай бұрын

Hey David. Sorry. Not sure what the stain is from, also if you are not sure what the finsh is I wouldn't be able to tell you how to procede. Stripping is the only solution without knowing. Wish I could be of more help. best . . . paul

@davidshepherd5932

6 ай бұрын

I’m pretty sure it is a laquer finish, and the blemish appears to have been from a solvent type of material chemically attacking the finish.. I’ve had a similar issue with a solvent glue that did the same thing to another piece of furniture in the past. If it is laquer, can i sand it down completely (without getting to the stained wood) and reapply the laquer? Or spot sand and build it back up with layers of laquer in that area? The area is about a 2 inch oval area where just the outer ring is indented.

@paulsDIYsolutions

6 ай бұрын

Hey David. There are professional refinishers that often have hard times trying to match a finish. I am not one that would attempt a match. I would chat with one them.@@davidshepherd5932

@davidshepherd5932

6 ай бұрын

Will do, thanks again for all of your tutorials!!

Hello! After doing final coat of oil based poly what process do you suggest for final buff and polish to get out any stray fuzzies or air bubbles that kind of thing? Thanks

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 ай бұрын

Hi Jessica. It's in the video. Brown paper bag. best . . . paul

@JessicaIles

2 ай бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions which video Paul? Thanks

Wonderful videos! Two questions: I don't know much about woods, so what if I don't know what kind of wood it is? Should I condition it just to be on the safe side? And for safety, should I dispose of the trash in a can outside--is that enough? The chance of fire is scary! Thanks!

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 ай бұрын

Hey Kelli. What type of piece are you doing?

@KelliThomerson

3 ай бұрын

It's a large desk, from the 1990s, but I also mean in general. @@paulsDIYsolutions

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 ай бұрын

Okay so you should finish all sides of the desk to seal it. If you only clear finish the top it may crack with seasonal wood expansion and contraction. This is perfect because you can experiment on the bottom surface. I would stain the a part of the bottom without conditioner and see if it blotches. Conditioner weakens the color of the stain dramatically so it's best not to use it if it's a hardwood (which guessing form its age it probably is). Hope taht makes sense. I'm here so ask if you have questions. best . . . paul@@KelliThomerson

I used the odorless mineral spirits to clean up my wood before staining and it seemed to eat at my wood. Has that happened to you? Could i use paint thinner Instead of the mineral spirits?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 ай бұрын

Hey Casey. I'm not a fan of odorless mineral spirits but I can't imagine it would ruin wood. I've stopped buying mineral spirits and use paint thinner exclusively. best . . . paul

I would like to put a tung oil finish on my grandson’s pine toy chest. I watched your videos but get a little confused because you refer to other techniques. Do you have a KZread that is specific to applying tung oil? Does pine need to be preconditioned when using tung oil? Can you recommend specific products so I purchase correctly? Should I work from the inside of the toy chest first and then proceed to the outside?

@paulsDIYsolutions

6 ай бұрын

Hey Susan. 1. "How to apply tung oil tips and technique - refinishing furniture" - Video link kzread.info/dash/bejne/l4SilpJyhKe5YNI.html 2. I use conditioner on pine only when staining 3. Check out Lee Vallet Tools (online) for Polymerized Tung Oil 4. I always recommend (and I do it) starting on a unseen side first to get practice. So yes do inside first> best . . . paul

Do you ever address finishes over paint?

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Barb. No I really don't do paint (other than my walls and trim). I appreciate the look but it kinda runs against my grain (bad pun, sorry). best . . . paul

These videos are great, I have screwed up a lot on trying to refinish some furniture. Stripping and sanding, again. One question, do you sand between coat of stain? And what if you want a dimensional look with multiple colors of stain, how do you achieve this?

@jandjsouth5.3

4 ай бұрын

Also, I used a stain/poly mix that left little deposits like the size of a pencil head, almost looks like dust but isn’t. And for something like this with a table that has grains in multiple directions due to cut of veneer how do you go about staining that with a stain/poly mix and have it go even where it meets up? We choose that because it was the only color we could find to match h what we weren’t refinishing. Now I screwed up on the poly so after watching videos have to strip it down. In your one video of fixing poly issues, where you stripped it down, can you use a stripper and only strip the poly off to not go to stain? Sorry lots of questions, been rewatching your videos since I found them this morning. Wish I would have found you sooner could have saved myself a wholeeee bunch of work, time, and money. Oh well good learning curve.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 ай бұрын

Hey Jan. No sanding after staining. You'll take a lot of the stain off. Be sure to grain raise before staining though, otherwise you'll be stuck with frizzies.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 ай бұрын

I honestly have never tried multicolor applications so I'm a bad person to ask (forgot to answer that above). Questions are good. I'm gonna flat out say I don't like the stain/poly mix. It acts more like paint on previously finished surfaces and the poly inhibits the stain on bare wood. Get rid of that stuff! Multiple direction grain patterns are not effected with regular stain. As far as color matches you can buy mini cans of stain and become a mixologist ( the bottom of your table is a great place for sampling your concoctions). Stripper will remove a lot of the stain. No way around that. Glad you found me too. It is part of the learning curve but I found mistakes make good firewood too. best . . . paul

@jandjsouth5.3

4 ай бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutionswhen you say raise the grain, do you mean wipe with mineral spirits before staining? Thanks for answering all my questions. And would mahogany need conditioner?

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 ай бұрын

Yes. Wet it good with water or mineral spirits (dries faster) and then sand with a 180 grit to remove any grain raise (kinda like split ends in hair after shampooing). Grain typically only raises once but if there a lot in the first raise do it again just to be safe. What you don't want is your stain raising the grain and we don't sand after staining. @@jandjsouth5.3

Hi Paul! I’m new to wood finishing and your videos are my favourite! I’ve used your technique for applying poly with a brush and the results have been amazing. I started with an unfinished acacia live edge butcher block for a bathroom vanity. Sanded, sanded, stained, sanded, poly and sanding with 330 block between coats. I am getting close to the finish line but am having difficulty covering the wood pores (not bubbles). Being a novice I didn’t know I should have also used a sealer to avoid this issue. Do you have any tips on how to fix these pin holes without stripping it down? I’m using *cough* ‘quick dry’ oil poly with a 3:1 with mineral spirits applied with a brush. I also have a dehumidifier running in my garage keeping it around 45% with a temp of 20C. Also, when I bring this into my house (with high humidity) will that be an issue or should I acclimate it over time? Sorry for the long post! lol. Thanks so much for your time and making these videos ❤

@paulsDIYsolutions

10 ай бұрын

Hey Nicolle. Beautiful wood!! Had to cost you an arm and a leg! Live edge projects should look natural (in my opinion and preference) so unless you are going for a highly polished traditional look I would accept the wood imperfections. People make a HUGE MISTAKE by trying to use polyurethane as a wood filler. It's not and never will be. What ends up happening is they try to glop it on to fill and it looks plasticy and hazy. Many live edge products are finished with a two part epoxy. It is a very clear thick finish. I am not a fan of epoxy finishes and I believe they are instead a novelty about to run it's course ( a nice varnish type clear finish has and will be around forever). Okay that said there are deep, reflective, more formal finishes that are beautiful when done properly. Thisk grandmas china cabinet and dining room fgurniture or baby grand pianos. Those finishes require a grain filler to create a perfectly flat, scratch free, closed pore, level grain surface. Then they are sanded to a 300-400 grit and then when all finishing is done polishing with wet sand paper in the 2000-4000 range. I'm typing this on my live edge desk with and polyurethane finish and all it's natural (and beutiful) surface imperfections. Hope this helps a little. best . . . paul

@nicolledixon6172

10 ай бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions Thank you so much for your reply! I absolutely agree with the natural look, however my hubby is worried about moisture getting into the wood as it’s being used for a bathroom vanity… with children. It’s more glossy that I like so I might buff the sheen down once finished. I actually just did a 50/50 poly with spirits, turned the humidity down further to lessen dry time and skipped the feathering. So far it looks like it’s helping after a couple hours. I’m really loving this hobby and the results (thanks to you!) and look forward to experimenting with different finishes in the future. Side note: I picked up the 6’ length of acacia at Home Depot for $200 CAD a couple weeks ago! Cheers and thanks again!

@paulsDIYsolutions

10 ай бұрын

Hi Nicolle. Couple things. First the pores are sealed completely after the second coat so don't worry about them soaking in moisture. Second feathering is an imporatnet part of the finishing so never skip it. Glad it turned out and welcome to the woodworking club. best . . . paul@@nicolledixon6172

@nicolledixon6172

10 ай бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions I think my biggest issue was not fully understanding the product and it’s capabilities. You hit the nail on the head! (Little woodcrafting joke for ya) lol. I had way too many coats on, even though the layers were thin. I sanded days of my life away and afterwards it looked much better. I’m pleased with the outcome being a newbie and have learned a lot for next time! Can’t thank you enough for all of your help!

@paulsDIYsolutions

10 ай бұрын

@@nicolledixon6172 Thanx Nicolle. I try not to cut corners (back at you). Glad to be of some help. best . . . paul

Hi Paul, I am planning to stain a pine tv cabinet I made. Can I just stain? Or should I stain and finish the top surface only? Stain and finish the whole project? I’m really new to this. Thanks sam

@paulsDIYsolutions

11 ай бұрын

Hey Sam. You gotta do the WHOLE THING. Stain looks dull and flat and offers no protection. best . . . paul

@samgeddes6028

11 ай бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks so much. Learning a lot from your videos. They are very helpful!

Hi, i polyd (waterbased) some light blond wood and it turned it completely dark! Anything i can do to get orig light color back?

@paulsDIYsolutions

Ай бұрын

Hey Speckre. Have no idea why it ahppened or how to correct it. Sorry. best . . . paul

Im trying to fix a small section that didnt take the stain. Ive tried to sand it back down and start over but the stain is not absorbing. Thoughts?

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 ай бұрын

Hey Remy. No I'm sorry there just too many possibilties. best . . . paul

Do you have a video where you tone down a dark stain? i.e. is it better to flood and wipe one time for a lighter finish (using a dark stain) but it won't set as deep. Or tone down the stain first (via mixing with something) and do the two coats for a deeper but lighter color?

@paulsDIYsolutions

Ай бұрын

Hey Tony. Good questions. I would experiment first using scrap or a hidden spot (like the underside). Then try wiping a little sooner and see if after one coat you like it. Or you can thin it a little with paint thinner. best . . . paul

@tonyelliott5045

Ай бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions great suggestions! thanks! glad to help keep traditional workman's art alive!

Hey Paul, I just got done staining a wooden oak hope chest that my boyfriend made. As I was getting it prepped for Poly I noticed little white fibers from the stain cloth. I didn’t see them at all while I was staining. Any ideas in how to get them off? If I could get your email I could send you pictures of what I’m talking about. Would you poly the whole chest or just the top? Thanks

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 ай бұрын

Sorry Casey. Can't help ypou on the lint. I use cheap theow away chip brushes for stain. I would poly the whole thing. Stain offers no protection.

is that a water base stain?

Hi Paul, love these videos, thanks so much for making them! I have an old rosewood desk that got some white rings from a flower pot left on it. Unfortunate incident that I don’t want to talk about 🤦‍♂️. I thought I was doing the right thing by purchasing one of the water ring removal rags from Guardsman, however, I’m unhappy with the results. While the ring is gone, the area that I rubbed is now noticeably shinier than the rest of the desktop. Mea culpa on my part, the instructions did warn about this, but I thought the current finish was considered “shiny” already so I went ahead. Clearly I was wrong. I’m completely new at this, do you think I need to sand the top completely to remove the finish and re-stain? Simply apply new finish? Looking to get a low sheen, even coating back on top. Any advice you can give would be great. Thank you and keep up the great work!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Kevin. Rosewood is a beautiful wood. Sounds nice. Is the desk an antique? Before the 1950's shellac was a very popular wood finish. It has flaws ad one of them is water rings. It has been pretty much replaced by lacquer and polyurethanes. Matching old finishes is really hard and cocering them without removing often results in hodge podge looking finishes. I would probably remove all the old finish and then start over. Before buying stripper I would try using denatured alcohol. If it's shellac it will melt under alcohol and can be wiped off. This is faster, cleaner and cheaper than strippers. best . . . paul

@KevinP-oj9uk

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the response! I don’t think it’s shellac, it’s from the early 1980s and doesn’t really have that antique look to it. Assuming it’s polyurethane, you would opt for some kind of chemical stripper rather than sanding? I’m curious too if you happen to know why those water mark removers leave behind the shininess. Is that residue or is it just changing the sheen of the existing finish somehow?

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@KevinP-oj9uk Yep. The 1980's would have been lacquer for massed produce furniture. Chemical strippers are your best bet. I can't answer the sheen issues because I'm not familiar with correction compounds. best . . . paul

@KevinP-oj9uk

Жыл бұрын

I’ll give it a shot. Thanks again!

@nicolledixon6172

10 ай бұрын

@@KevinP-oj9uk Hi Kevin, I know this tip is too late now, but I learned from my grandmother years ago that you can oftentimes lift the water rings from furniture by rubbing ashes over the area, you may have to a couple times and leave over night. Sounds crazy but I’ve done it with some impressive results if you catch it quick enough. Hope things worked out!

I am doing redoing wood I believe they're pine. They were so thick with paint I sanded all the paint off I did not strip it. I used a heavy sandpaper just for removing the paint I really don't want it to Bloch. Please guide me please please please

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Diana. There's a lpot of missing info here. Is there any paint residue left? Did you go over the rough grits with finer sandapaper to remove sandpaper scratches? If so what grit was your final sand? Pine should be conditioned. Watch my other video Blotch-Free Wood Stain Application Technique | Furniture Refinishing and follow the directions there. kzread.info/dash/bejne/loFoy5RxgbHYmc4.html I'm here if you have other questions. best . . . paul

I can only find that silly odorless mineral what do I use instead

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Paint thinner.

Paul this is Larry again i got ypur earlier amswer on , if i wamt to put a darker stain on , the golden oak wasnt dark enough , i want it darker . You said i can sand it down a little and apply the darker stain , what size sanding paper do i used and you said a little , how much is a little ? And i think i found the right stain which is semi transparent english chestnut , i think its closer to what i want , i could send you pictures but cant seem to do it on my phone , let me know as soon as you can , thanks

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

No need to go crazy with sanding just to remove any fuzzies (grain raise). The purpose of sanding IS NOT to remove any of the prvious stain its' just to smooth the surface. I would use a 180 grit (too fine cretaes tiny dust particles that clog pores and stop absorption). best . . . paul

@LarryBarney-eg2ns

Жыл бұрын

Thanks paul i put on the darker stain and it looks better , i already put oil polyureathen on the trim that the hamper doors are attached to , is it too late to put darker staine on them or can i sand ot with 180 grit and put the darker stain on ? Or am i stuck with the lighter trim color ? Thank u

Paul, I’m going to be staining some oak handrails and the stain manufacturer is calling for 220 grit sanding, with your experience, is safe to use the 220 or should I use the 180? Also, they are 8 foot sections, I’m assuming to stain the entire 8 feet and then wipe instead of doing sections and wiping to obtain an even finish? Thank you for your time, Garry.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 ай бұрын

Hey Garry. I ise 180 but 220 is really pretty close in texture. The finer the sandpaper the finer thge sanding dust. Fine sanding dust can clog pores so stain doesn't absorb as well. You can go with 220 just be sure to vacuum or blow the pores out well. I would do the whole 8 feet to make sure the stain comes our even. best . . . paul

@funnyharleyman

3 ай бұрын

Paul, do you recommend conditioner for oak? I know you mentioned using it for softer woods but how about oak? Thanks! Garry

Do you need to tape off the bottom if you are going to stain both sides? I assume you need one side to dry first right?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 ай бұрын

Hey Candace. No tape just be careful not to let it run to the bottom. Check out painters pyramids (availble pretty cheap at your local big box home center). Allows yoy to flip it and do the other side. Just start with the bottom side first. best . . . paul

@candaceweatherford5138

3 ай бұрын

Thank you so much!❤

What do you do when you do not like the color of the stained wood? I am refinishing a biscuit table from the 1800's that has been stored in a barn for years. It was painted white, which I removed quite easily. I sanded properly and applied minwax golden oak stain, by the way the wood is oak. After the stain dried the piece was so blotchy and way to dark. I wanted that warm golden color. The piece has oak turned legs. The stain has collected in the groves and way darker than the flat surfaces. I am so disappointed with it that I have basically begun the sanding process all over again, but I am still not getting anywhere with it. Any suggestions are certainly welcome!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Jay. There's a reason they call it stain. It's impossible to remove once done because well it stains. Stain soaks deep between the wood's fibers and into it's opoen pores. Going darker is easy but lightening it is another story. Wish I had a simple solution for you Jay but I just don't. best . . . paul

I believe I over sanded my red oak table top with 220 grit, how can I fix this so that it’ll take the stain?

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 ай бұрын

Hey Lauren. The biggest issue is not removing the sanding dust. It can clog the pores in the wood. Pores absorb stain. If you have access to an air compresser blow them out otherwise a strong shop vacuum and vacuum them out. If those tips fail resand with a 180 grit and blow or vacuum it then. best . . . paul

Recently I was getting ready to stain an white oak project (boxes as gifts). After seeing similar advice elsewhere I wiped the boxes down with a rag dampened with mineral spirits for the first time, and then wiped on the (antique oak) stain. It looked fine at first. Several minutes later when I returned to look them over I was HORRIFIED to find large blotches all over the projects. The only way I could save them was to stand in the driveway for hours in the dark and scrub the still damp stain away with mineral spirits and course scotchbrite pad, returning them to as close a 'zero state' as possible. What do you think happened to cause this?

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Orca. Are you 100% sure they are oak? Oak typically doesn't blotch. If not send me a pic of the unfinished wood. Varry the distances of the photo with a few closeups. What brand stain? Also what type mineral spirits (was it labeled odorless?) Please let me know here when you send and I will keep an eye out (I don't check that email often). ialignm@gmail.com

@orcasea59

Жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks for the reply, Paul. Replying to your email you supplied

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey orca. Got your reply but no pics attached.

I really hope you can see this comment. I have a 100 year old table that we are about to stain with oil based black cherry verathane. I also bought the conditioner you suggested in your other video. I am trying to figure out the best way to finish the coat for a satin finish. I bought satin polyurethane but after lots of research I'm seeing that others say not to use that. What would you recommend?

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 ай бұрын

Hey Amanda. I'm glad you reached out. I check for comments typically early morning and early evening, so ask away. First off do you know the type of wood the table is made from. 100 years old would typically be oak. But it if it's primative farm it might be pine. I wouldn't use conditioner if it's oak. Conditioner lightens the stain too much. Anyway tables should be done on both sides to seal the wood all the way around. This helps with seasonal expansiom and contraction of the wood. This is good news because you can use the bottom as your practice area. I use satin polyurethane all the time. Satin comtains tiny silica crystals to dull the polyurethane. They may be suggesting to use gloss for the initial coats and satin for the final coat. I've done that but only when I plan to go more than 3 coats. The silica can make the wood look cloudy with 4 or more coats. Tell me more about what you've done to prep your table. best . . . paul

@amandavalentine1803

4 ай бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions thank you so much for the reply! I really want this table to be done as proficient as possible so it lasts. I was told it was locally sourced wood from Georgia and it seems very soft when I sanded it. I am assuming it is pine but there is no way for me to be sure. It was made in 1907 by my husband's great grandfather. He used wood from a cabin that they had torn down. I wanted to keep all of the cracks, nail holes, hammer marks, crumble rounded edges and even knot holes for a very rustic look with a modern finish. I sanded it first with 80 grit, then 100, then 120 and I have bought 220 but have not sanded it with that yet. I watched several of your videos then followed your suggestions on gradually sanding and getting rid of dust in between each subsequent sand. He had wanted to keep the original bottom part of the table painted grey like it already had been. I have sanded and completed that part with a semi-gloss interior oil based latex wood paint. This unfortunately means that the underside of the table is already painted but I do have a few spots on the underside where paint is not applied so that it gives a rounded edge look when it is stained. I hope that I have explained that without too much confusion.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 ай бұрын

Hey Amanda. It probably is a softwood either cedar or pine. So use a conditioner if you are going to stain. Apply stain immediately after wiping excess wet conditioner. This will allow more stain to penetrate. I use satin polyurethane all the time. I don't know why others told you not to. If I'm applying more than 3 coats (which I seldom do) I'll use c gloss urethane and do the final coat in satin. Reason: Satin urethane contains fine silica crystal which dull the finish. Too many coats and the silica creates a cloudy appearance. Your tabke should have 3 coats maximum. I would pick up a inexpensive piece of pine at your local big box store and practice with the conditioner, stain and polyurethane. It'll help assure a better experience. I'm here so ask if you have more questions. best . . .paul@@amandavalentine1803

What about spraying stain on instead of brushing?

@paulsDIYsolutions

23 күн бұрын

Hey Dr. It could be done but I think it would be a lot of work and mess. best . . . paul

Paul when I tried to wipe off the stain, everything was stiff and sticky. Couldn't even move the cloth to wipe. How can that happen? Anyway. I gave it another coat of stain and left it for 2 days to dry. Now the wood is dry but still sticky to when dragging hand. I dont undertand. Either im using a wrong can of stain, or maybe I didnt sand enough? or maybe i didnt dilute the stain from the can

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey ladioz. Please provide the brand stain, the type stain (oil, water, gel, etc.), and after applying how long did you wait to wipe?

@Ladioz

Жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions it's a can of BERGER BROLAC VARNISH STAIN DARK OAK

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@Ladioz Hi Ladioz. This is truely not a pure stain nor pure varnish. It is a combination finish. That's why you are having these issues. I'm sorry but I am not a fan of combo finishes so I know little about application methods. best . . paul

@Ladioz

Жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks for looking it up Paul. My next move is to sand everything with a 300 sandpaper and apply poly. lets see what happens

Conditioner? I saw you clean up the dust with mineral spirits but I didn't see you apply a conditioner. I went back but couldn't see it. What did you mean?

@paulsDIYsolutions

9 ай бұрын

Hey Katrina. The wood was oak. Oak does not need a conditioner. Only soft woods. Best . . . Paul

@katrinamcbride9338

9 ай бұрын

Oh I see. Only you said that the leg hadn't had a conditioner on it like the piece of wood had, which was why the leg was soaking it up more. That's what I understood from what you were saying. I've now watched your other video about finishing without blotches. It was also really good. Thank you.

Hi Paul thanks for all the great tutorials...really appreciated. If I want to pay for some advice for a project that I've really messed up and not sure what to do next, how do I reach you? I left a comment on your buy me coffee page with my email.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 ай бұрын

Text me at paulsdiysolutions@gmail.com. When youi do please come back here and let me know that you sent the text. I don't frequent that address often. Thanx

@jasonimani4139

3 ай бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions Ok sent! Thank you!

I cleaned a board with mineral spirits and it left weird marks on the board. Has that ever happened to you?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 ай бұрын

Hey Casey. No but I could possibly be of more help if you told me some of the specifics. What do the weird marks look like. What type wood? What type mineral spirits (odorless or not)? Is the board raw wood?

@CaseyReid-gs7xy

3 ай бұрын

My bf made a hope chest out of red oak. So before I stained it I grabbed a small piece of the red oak and cleaned it with the odorless mineral spirits before I tried a few different colors of stain. I was hoping to see which would look best on the red oak. After I applied the stain I had small color blotches under the stain. So it didn’t ruin the board like I thought. I then tried the same colors on another board without using the Mineral Spirits and that didn’t happen. I was hoping to be able to use the mineral spirits to clean up the rest of the dust before I applied the stain. Can I use the paint thinner to clean up the wood before I apply stain? Thanks for all the advice it’s very helpful.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 ай бұрын

@@CaseyReid-gs7xy I'm guessing it as the wood itself and not the MS. But you're still better off with paint thinner.

Out

This method consumes lot of product. Making it an expensive stain.

@paulsDIYsolutions

11 ай бұрын

Hey Z. Right!!! Worth it though.