Currently working on an epoxy handle great videos

@SomewhatAbnormal

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Simon! I'll be adding new content soon. I apologize for not creating more, but I'm trying to get organized so that I can.

Nice knife and that work bench is awesome

@SomewhatAbnormal

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! This is a 8' Gladiator workbench I bought from Sears about 20 years ago, and I added the T-Tracks about a year ago. I use Rockler hold down clamps in the track to keep my knife stable while I'm filing or sanding. The hold down clamps with the end stop are essential when I'm gluing up a composite knife scale.

Great video man thru and thru

@SomewhatAbnormal

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you! I'm in the process of retooling my workshop, so I will have more videos soon. I really appreciate your feedback.

Thanks for the video I'm sitting here sanding my first epoxy handle now. I've only made 5 knives so this hidden tang epoxy knife is kinda rough

@SomewhatAbnormal

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment Richard! Using epoxy for knife handles is definitely challenging. Over Xmas break I was able to see how these handles have held up after 1-2 years of use, and I can verify that they are still stable.

Nice work! What would use on bone for final finish

@SomewhatAbnormal

Ай бұрын

I have not made any knives using bone for the handle. However, I think the process would be very similar. Bone can heat up and burn just the same so make sure you're not overheating when polishing.

Nice video very informative

@VaughnDTaylor

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you. I plan to make more videos soon.

@SomewhatAbnormal

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Just fyi, you can go from 1000 grit straight to the buffer. Buff with green then pink and it'll be clear as glass.

@SomewhatAbnormal

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for that feedback, and I'll give it a try with my next knife.

Does the compound ever get gummy and leave black marks on whatever you’re trying to polish? Seems like I keep running into this issue

@SomewhatAbnormal

4 ай бұрын

Yes, I've had this problem. I believe it's related to overheating the compound causing it to chemically bond to the epoxy. You need to have a light touch when buffing the epoxy. Don't stay in one place for too long and keep a container of water near to dip between passes.

Hey brother! Im new here lol but I just want to say good work, and I have a ? When you pour the resin it has this amazing 3D with all the colors, are you able to bring that back after the dullness of what the 2x72 leaves? I'm in progress of hand sanding now but it's not as glassy as I was hoping?

@SomewhatAbnormal

Жыл бұрын

Hi Al, thanks for the question. I've found that the 2X72 does a great job in getting the basic shape and the start of a sheen. After the basic grinding on the 2X72, I move over to hand shaping where I move through grits down to 8000. With hand sanding, I don't start using water until I hit 1200 grit. When I reach 5000 grit, I use Flitz which is a metal polish but it works well with sandpaper and epoxy. Side note, 5000+ sandpaper feels like you're sanding with grit-less office paper. Finally, I move to the bench grinder with polishing waxes, making sure not to overheat the epoxy which can cause it to get a matte appearance. It's a lengthy process for sure, but I'm able to eventually get to a high gloss finish.

I have found cutlers rivets tricky and like the simplicity of pin rivets. Can you talk to me about setting pin rivets and how well do they hold ? Thanks

@buddyhutchins3782

3 жыл бұрын

Hello William, I've had very good luck with pin rivets, a mini drop of superglue could be the reason. Saludos. Anaco, Anz.

@SomewhatAbnormal

3 жыл бұрын

I use pins in all of my knives and I have yet to have one fail. There are a few things I do... 1) On my bandsaw I cut little grooves around the center section of the pin which basically gives the pin additional surface area inside the handle where epoxy can seat. I take a whole piece of pin material (usually 8-12"), mark the cut lines, then spin the pin material against the blade in the center of each pin. No need to be overly neat, just make grooves then cut all the pins to length. 2) Clean all of your parts with acetone before glue up and make sure everything is dust free. 3) Don't use a quick epoxy (5 minute) for gluing up your handles. Instead use a longer curing epoxy like West System G/Flex which has a working time of 60-75 minutes, initial cure of 3-4 hours, and a workable cure of 7-10 hours. With a longer curing epoxy, you can make last minute alignment adjustments, and G/Flex makes good structural bonds that resist expansion, contraction and shock. People use it on canoes, kayaks and boats so it's engineered to stand up to water and stress. 4) Don't be afraid to use the epoxy liberally especially around the pin holes when gluing up. I've found that 2 drams of each (resin and hardener) for a total of 4 drams is the right amount for the typical knife. I use drams because the little disposable measuring cups I use are marked with drams - 1 dram is equivalent to 1.77185 grams or 0.0625002 oz. If you want to pigment your epoxy (I like to use black pigment) just make sure to add it to the epoxy (not more than 10% of volume -- basically a few drops), mix well, then add hardener. Pigment can change the properties of epoxy slightly so it's best to stick with pigments that are engineered to work with G/Flex (knifemaking.com/products/we5018-white-pigment). Hope this helps!

Everything can be done on your belt grinder, Why waste all the time hand sanding?

@SomewhatAbnormal

Жыл бұрын

I don't see a belt grinder as a fine finish tool - even with a fine grit belt. I prefer to hand sand both epoxy and wood because I find that it's much easier to focus on improving tiny imperfections without having a 2" belt threatening to add an unintentional mistake to the work. I think you'll find that with most fine crafts these days, 80% is done with a machine and 20% is done by fine handwork. Anyway, I don't see the tactile experience of hand sanding as a waste of time - I feel that it adds to joy of making things. At least that's my experience.