Could you guys possibly do a video on cleaning an anchor and repelling back down?

@nigelmtb

Жыл бұрын

Rapelling

You couldn't find anyone better to walk folks through these important basic concepts with clarity. Trevor and Des rock like Led Zeppelin and have built an amazing guide service. Trevor has left a loooong and amazing list of brilliant must do climbs in his wake, around the world. Treat yourself to some.

Amazing teacher. Wanna see more videos with him. Thanks

I were so impressed with not only your skill but also your style. Now looking for just the same like VAN pr Camping Car exactly.

You're a really great teacher!

I've seen many many many video about this topic. This one is the clearest of all. good job!

Excellent guy excellent explanations!!!!!!

Great content, very useful!

Really nice, very well explained

excellent explanation

Great video, thanks!

Please show more anchors and also how to clean them in the end.

Great tips, would love more info videos from this guy

@dailyclimbing

3 жыл бұрын

More coming soon!

@chaosengine4597

3 жыл бұрын

book a course. If you life in that area - he seems to be a decent trainer and you should book with him :)

@theopenacademy9102

3 жыл бұрын

His name is Trevor Massiah

Trevor is cool, more Trevor videos.

Very helpfull! Thank you from germany.

Wished you showed other types of anchors like chains, cold shuts...etc for TR.

@reneeschke

11 ай бұрын

I second this

Great video!

Great video thanks. I assume with any anchor you always want at least two?

Love this dude

Hey brutha! Good stuff ✊🏾

Is there a reason for using only two locking caribiners as opposed to four on the starting anchor?

That’s interesting, I’ve always learned to just thread it right away and the top rope off of it, but now I’m questionning this habit and might share this to some friends !

@FlyfishermanMike

2 жыл бұрын

It really depends on the area and the local customs. I prefer to use my own gear and will always do do.

guys, a quick question from a beginner climber. Aren't you supposed to clip yourself closer to the rock (opposite of when you lead), when building top rope anchor, assuming you built it for someone else to toprope after you lower?

gracias por la explicación. me gusto el video

cool video!

Thank you

Just out of curiosity here, shouldn't the force be equalized on both, it kind of looks like there is only force being used on the screw-lock, or did you use this set up because the bolts are off?

I’d love to see a video on how the last person transfers off the placed gear onto the in-situation gear. Thanks.

@chaosengine4597

3 жыл бұрын

I would definetely NOT want to see a video on this, because people might think they can replicate what they saw in that video. I highly recommend to take a trainer or book a climbing course to learn that.

@5upl1an

3 жыл бұрын

@@chaosengine4597 while thats true, if no professional is going to do such videos then someone might upload one where they show it even wrongly, so it would still be better if there was one done by a professional instructor like this guy.

@TwistedChaz

3 жыл бұрын

I would love to see a proper in-depth video on this. Showing different types of anchors, and how to correctly set up, clean and lower off a route. There’s already loads of sub par confusing videos and I believe Climbing Daily has the skills to put together a really comprehensive version!

@damiensmith8351

3 жыл бұрын

@@chaosengine4597 I learnt how to clean a route from KZread, and after many many times doing so I'm still alive and not had any close calls, just double check as I go.

@chaosengine4597

3 жыл бұрын

@@damiensmith8351 probably you are smart. Not all people are smart though. But overall I think you cannot avoid those videos. So maybe EpicTV is a good option then to have the good ones.

Great 👍

Isn't there an issue with the equalized load? The right bolt seems to be weighted more, doesn't it?

@atarisbetter9199

2 жыл бұрын

Right I wouldn't feel safe doing this way but isn't there many ways of setting up a bolted TR anchor? Like 2 quickdraws, building a quad or other rope/sling anchor that would be safer.

@ccolagio_

2 жыл бұрын

Not *more*. The anchor hanger using the carabiner is the ***ONLY*** piece of hardware that is loaded. The quickdraw is taking 0 load. This...is not a "textbook" video. If you're going to go simple - a long (17cm) quickdraw and a short (12cm) quickdraw with some lockers on the rope ends wouldve likely done a more balanced job. but do to the anchor placement, if you want eqaulized, youre going to need to create an anchor: kzread.info/dash/bejne/iq6rm7yNXa2dYag.html&ab_channel=HowNOT2

@dpmoffitt

Жыл бұрын

There is enough redundancy that its ok

@TheIamwalruss

Жыл бұрын

@@ccolagio_ That makes sense. I was thinking it was the positioning of the bolts, they looked a little off.

What i want to know is if someone must use a pulley to prevent cord wear?!? Is it right?

At 2:13 you can see several anchors going up the mt. I was wondering, for safety reasons do you always attach to each anchor so if you fall, your not falling that far?

@MaxwellClement1

Жыл бұрын

Yep that's the fundamental way sport climbing works. You clip your gear (called quickdraws) on one bolt (anchor is usually reserved for the top two installed points) at a time until you get to the top of the route where you anchor and lower or if possible walk off safely.

shouldn't the screwgate go through the bolt itself instead of the chain?

Could someone answer: is the 7mm cordalette quad anchor option “stronger / better” than both the sling and QuickDraw anchor method?

@pascaljutras178

2 жыл бұрын

I am not an expert but I normally tends to use 7 mm cordelette and get a double seft-equalizing setup, this is very strong (clip only 3 of the 4 strands). Looks better for me to equalized forces on both anchor and also use locked carabiner (quickdraw is quick and easy to use but it is not locked).

@gabemedina2275

Жыл бұрын

Bit late with my reply. As long as the system is redundant and equalized the double draw method is fine. I personally have a pre-tied quad for setting tr anchors and live by it. It’s especially nice for anchor like the one in this video where one bolt is higher than the other because it has no problem equalizing if anchor is long enough

What is, "in situ gear"? Thank you!

Can we talk about bolts some time please? those petzl bolts seem to be everywhere in North Wales but really damage quickdraws!

@StaggerLee68

3 жыл бұрын

There are much better bolt options out there, time to chop those MacPretzl time-bombs and replace with quality anchors. Ha ha.

What is the name of the belay device used in this video?

@ottard

2 жыл бұрын

clickup

Anyone else notice he’s tied in with a double bowline? Snazzy :) I love these types of videos...still waiting on the good rescue video though! From rescue the climber from below, and above

@davidarbinger3543

3 жыл бұрын

i was wondering which knot this is... is it considered as safe as the figure eight?

@johannessporer

3 жыл бұрын

@@davidarbinger3543 It is an equaly safe knot, just not as easy to check. Very common here in Germany. The main benefit is that it is always easy to untie even after a big fall.

@davidarbinger3543

3 жыл бұрын

@@johannessporer so like the "doppelter bulin" (sorry dont know the english word)

@johannessporer

3 жыл бұрын

@@davidarbinger3543 "Bulin" schreibt man Bowline und spricht bulin ;) das ist also der gleiche Knoten

@davidarbinger3543

3 жыл бұрын

@@johannessporer kk aber beim genaueren betrachten schaut der nicht wie ein doppelter bulin aus, sondern wie ein yosemite bulin

Would like to have seen him clean and lower off of the anchor as well, otherwise great video

Do you ever see wear on the bolts?

The question is...who puts those anchor bolt things in the first place

I'm not an expert, but so much of what he did feels wrong to me. I don't think it is necessairly unsafe, but definitely not best-practice, especially if you plan to top rope off of it. For one the anchor is not equalized so all of the weight is on one caribiner/bolt. two I was always taught to clip directly into the bolts not the chain simply to reduce the number of pieces that could fail. If I'm wrong please explain why.

I'm a bit jealous about the nice sport anchors elsewhere. In my area in southern Frankenjura you will only find single glue ins with maybe a maillon when you are lucky and that's it...

@onzeit1822

3 жыл бұрын

Take a drill and put a 2nd one next to it. :D

@johannessporer

3 жыл бұрын

@@onzeit1822 not allowed due to the ethics...chains and multiple bolts have to much visual impact. Many crags are in nature reserves where you have to find a compromise between different interests. Leaving quickdraws for more than a session is also not allowed.

@onzeit1822

3 жыл бұрын

@@johannessporer Oh I didn't know. I was following parts of the Frankenjura bolt debate but wasn't aware that a 2nd bolt at the top would be considered a problem for those reasons. That argument is ridiculous considering some bolts recently failed.

@johannessporer

3 жыл бұрын

@@onzeit1822 Yea it's always a bit scary. But most areas in the southern part of Frankenjura (f.e. Altmühltal were developed in the early 80s where safety was measured quite different to nowadays. It is also common that the first bolt is higher than 7m and bolt distances are over all very long and many routes are kind of mixed trad when you don't want to deck from 10m...

@onzeit1822

3 жыл бұрын

@@johannessporer Definitely keeps the crowds away...

Personally I wouldn’t be using a carabiner in anything that would be having a rope going through it like he does with the ring, I understand that an aluminium binner wouldn’t easily damage a steel ring but still why take the chance, at the end of the day it doesn’t take much to damage your rope with a sharp edge

You're better off using steel carabiners for top roping instead of aluminum. Steel will last longer and you won't have to spend extra money replacing carabiners.

Equalisation of the anchor?

@onzeit1822

3 жыл бұрын

He talked about it. It is 99% equalized. 5:45

@Johannes1321

2 жыл бұрын

@@onzeit1822 That's redundancy, not equalization.

@onzeit1822

2 жыл бұрын

@@Johannes1321 Totally correct! Not equalized but redundant with very little added dynamic force in case of faliure of bolt no. 1. So, in this set-up, just as good as a belay with a chain I'd say.

What is he tied in with? Single bowline with a stopper knot?!

good basic setup, although I would have done it in a different way, not using a ring to clip in my locking carabiner. +1 for the helmet. Only people with brain need to protect it.

@joffyjenkins9241

3 жыл бұрын

There isn't a good reason to not use the ring. Especially when the bolts aren't equalised it helps to use a combination like he did. There are even places where the hanger isn't designed to be clipped and you should clip the ring. Check out what certified guides are saying and not randoms on youtube comments. www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-clip-a-ring-anchor?fbclid=IwAR1KIPm3NL_-o270oNBCogAmD9k1yFqUWIvbaSw0JZt4qgJ6lABXE7W5DYk

@chaosengine4597

3 жыл бұрын

@@joffyjenkins9241 I am a certified trainer, trained in a certified university course by certified instructors here in Austria. And I wrote "I would have..." as there is no real standard on it. My reason is that the ring should be used for textile only _in my opinion_ (and as I was trained) because metal on metal could lead to micro cuts/edges, potentially damaging the mantle of ropes and therefore lowering their duration. Yes, I am a "random guy on the internet". That's why I always recommend to go to a decent local climbing school / Alpine society or similar and get proper training. Cheers.

@joffyjenkins9241

3 жыл бұрын

​@@chaosengine4597 Ah great then you have an even bigger responsibility to stay up to date and not perpetuate myths. www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/debunking-anchor/climbing-myths-part-1 I mean, using ally biners on a steel ring is not going to damage them, a bit of material science goes well in this case. And even if it did (it doesn't), have you seen the wear from rope friction detailed even in this video? Any "micro cut" is going to be long gone with even minimal use.

@chaosengine4597

3 жыл бұрын

@@joffyjenkins9241 the article you sent is for multi-pitching, not for building top-rope stations for your friends or climbing trainees in sports climbing. Also, the site seems to be hosted by one US guy (I cannot judge his proficiency). Sorry, but I stay up to date through other sources like the excellent publications in "bergundsteigen" (only in German, but I know who is discussing topics and the arguments behind assumptions put there). Yes, I try to stay up to date as much as possible (e.g. the discussion on tuber-style belay devices in the last years has been extremely interesting). But please take into account that "my way" on building a top-rope anchor is not wrong, just because it is different to how you do it. It is just how I do it and you don't need to change my mind on this for any reason.

@joffyjenkins9241

3 жыл бұрын

@@chaosengine4597 ​ It makes no difference, bolts are bolts and metal is metal. One US guy, who then goes on to quote, question or report on multiple world wide instructors with various worldwide certifications. I am not saying what you are doing is wrong, in some circumstances it could even be the better thing to do. What I am saying is wrong is you perpetuating myths. The simple answer is that there is nothing wrong with clipping on rings, so why comment when someone does when there is no evidence for your claims?

You have to equalize the anchor, in his set up there is no equalization. The entire load is only on 1 bolt, a big no no. This is a poor anchor. Anyone watching this should follow SRENE (solid, redundant, equalized, no extension) please don't make top rope anchors like this.

@finnplanb3

3 жыл бұрын

its not really an anchor though.. just like taking whipper on a quickdraw the bolt and carabiner will most likely be fine and then there's the redundancy of the other draw taking no load. also on top rope there will be almost no loading apart from the climbers bodyweight

This is a poor anchor setup. 1. He relies on the belayer to secure himself instead of securing himself to the anchor with a strap and taking the load off the belayer 2. He doesn't equalize the anchors. All load goes on a single anchor insteqd of being shared between 2.

@liskurex

3 жыл бұрын

Right, he putting all the weight in just one bolt. The weight should be distributed as equal as possible on both bolts. People has to remember to use a lifeline, all the time for any procedure.

@Furansowakun

Жыл бұрын

How do you do to equalise the anchors then ?

I was taught that, when it comes to cleaning the anchor and going down from it, always to opt for rappelling down rather than being lowered down on the in situ gear when possible.

@chaosengine4597

3 жыл бұрын

while this would be the best option in terms of wear on the in situ gear, it's often unpracticle. If I need to clean 5-6 routes at the end of a course, there simply is not enough time. As often in climbing, it's about adapting to the given situation :)

@slimpanther02

3 жыл бұрын

If you talk to people who develop areas and are the ones bolting and maintaining the permanent gear, a lot of them will say that the slight decrease in wear and tear is not worth the greater risk of injury that comes with rappelling. If you're comfortable doing it, then by all means go for it, but they place rings and links and easy to replace gear with the intention that the last climber lower off. The vast majority I've talked to would rather swap out some grooved gear occasionally than have even one rappelling fatality.

@rodrigotellez2962

3 жыл бұрын

@@slimpanther02 Fair point to you and @chaosengine ; it is true that under time constraints, rappelling is unpractical in the best of times. And it is quite true that if one does not have the proper skill set to rappel, getting lowered down is the best option.

@johnw3736

3 жыл бұрын

@@slimpanther02 are you an enormocast listener?

@vincentkrause7097

3 жыл бұрын

@@rodrigotellez2962 In my opinion leave rappeling for the multipitch routes, use lowering for single pitch routes and downclimbing for free Solo ascents

His personal safety should be thru his hard points, not belay loop. Dont build a top rope anchor off of rings out of curiosity (ppl are trying to rapp). Build a quad on the hangers and everyone is happy

@bowlcut880

3 жыл бұрын

You can do PAS both ways. Oftentimes people will do belay loop for single pitch and hard points for multi.

There are mutliple pieces of misinformation in this video and im concerened for everyones safety. It is not normal to see wear on a rappel ring; it is ment to be used for a rappel, when the rope is stationary, not for a top rope with a sliding rope. One should not top rope on a piece of fixed gear. It presents risk of death for all climbers that come after. Bring your own slings, webbing andore cordilette and set up your anchor off of the bolts.The quick anchor made with the quick draw and locking caribeaner is not redundant. If the right anchor blows, the quick draw would be shock loaded presenting risk of catistrophic failure (permenant injury andor death). Please double check all information and remember to make anchors eqaulized and redundent.

@malcolmvk7477

9 ай бұрын

I appreciate these climbers and theire commentary about climbing safety.

Thumbnail clip is super sketch. Don't need to watch video to know this isn't a good source of information

10 min video for: use quickdraw and screwgate.

0:50 ew

First

Sorry, but this guy is using a dmm binner with a wheel in it which is EXPLICITLY NO RECOMENDED BY DMM to do top rope!!!

@onzeit1822

3 жыл бұрын

"It can decrease rope wear when used as an anchor point when top roping." DMM site about the Revolver biner.

@henriktengelin8875

3 жыл бұрын

The Revolver is NOT designed for use on zip wires, Tyrolean traverse, top roping or other situations where prolonged use could cause damaging build up of heat. 14.1 WARNING The Revolver is designed as the rope clipping carabiner in a quick draw set. The roller’s surface can be damaged if the Revolver is clipped to wires, bolts and pegs. This in turn could cause damage to a rope. Always ensure the Revolver is clipped in the correct orientation (refer to pictograms). content.dmmwales.com/DMMWales/Media/ProductInstructions/LanguageGroupsCombined/INS-Revolver-G1G2.pdf

@onzeit1822

3 жыл бұрын

@@henriktengelin8875 I think you forgot to interpret what you cited. My interpretation is, that DMM will not take any responsibility. But the Revolver is perfectly safe to use as part of a redundant top-rope setup. It's funny that DMM contradicts themselves product-page vs. safety sheet.. bit yeah whatever. Armchair experts want to hear they're right, I guess.

@onzeit1822

3 жыл бұрын

What's your argument with "sorry, this guy..." anyway? You can't take him seriously? That's ridiculous. Also quite entertaining. I often wonder how so many youtube users think of themselves as knowledgeable enough to proove wrong professionals.

@ASNIV_

3 жыл бұрын

Trevor seems awesome. Look forward to seeing more from him.