Thank you for the videos. Just what i was looking for. Everyone seems to be into foam planes, and i dont want to lose this art form. Thanks again.

this is a perfect video for my learning curve!! thank you

Regardless of what others say, looks good using your technique.

l.m almost ready to cover with balsa sheeting an RC.40 piper cub haven't sanded it yet and this video is helpful, I decided to cover the wing and tail feathers with balsa sheets instead of ultracote, I,m also going to squeegee a thin layer of fiberglass resin over the wood sand and spray paint, Thanks.

Love your clouds. How did you animate them?

very nice, beautifulllll.....sir, so maybe you share the plans? in pdf?

Is there a kit I can buy to make an rc plane? with instructions?

up to this video how many aircraft have you assembled? ?

What airfoil did you use for the ribs?

Where did you get this kit from?

I`m building my first rc airplane. It`s a Senior Telemaster. I have been worried about the leading edge since I read that I had to shape it ,well today was the day. Overall it turned out good but I removed a little to much from the leading edge. About the last 8-10 inched from the wing tip. I removed about 1/16 " to much, how can I build that back up ? I can work around it and it will be ok but it`s not perfect and i`m kinda OCD and want it perfect. Any suggestions ?

do you know the wing loading weight 3 meter wingspan rc aircraft, i hope somebody here can help me

@hollisrutherford4853

5 жыл бұрын

Look at bird of time sales literature for est.

Would it not be better to more properly size the leading edge, spars, and rails before gluing them in? If not exactly flush, they ought to sit very slightly lower than the ribs unless you want a boundary layer trip on the forward top of the wing.

80grit is way way to coarse to sand balsa ribs and leading edge i use 240 up

If you can get old school plans,its best to start with one of those. I see the newer kits cutting back on top stringer supports as well as doubling up the wing formers in the nose of the wing. I still think scratch builds are best. Prebuilt planes are horrible now days,not enough material and huge spaces between bulkheads,but no extra support. Using one piece side formers covered in flimsy single ply balsa with no stringers really compromises the strength of the build,all in the name of calling it a lighter weight build. I would like to see carbon fiber side supports and stringers being used but thats just me. Hell most planes dont even survive a light landing nowdays in rough grass. Our throw away society has effected even our hobby.

How u have cut those airfoils on wood

Good information - unfortunately you skipped the leading edge sanding process. You started by saying you were ready to sand the leading edge. Next views we see show that you already did it, the LE is flush with the ribs. That's the part I was hoping to watch. I'm having a lot of trouble getting the top of LE down to top of rib front WITHOUT knocking off a piece of a rib.

Osm now I will proceed on my amphibird

Use a long boars sanding block when sanding larger areas like several ribs at a time. You can use a block 2 and a half foot long and sand in one direction, but sand at an angle, not straight on like you showed, make sure the sanding block contacts the ribs at all angles, not just straight forward and back. By sanding at a slight Angle, you remove equal amounts of wood across the ribs. Its really easy to sand too far by sanding just a few doing a straight on shot. I sand in one direction at the angle, not straight. Never sand straight on like you showed. I learned the hard way. You can easily rotate the eing and take off material going the other way, but, no never sand forward and back like you showed. Mabe as a finish sand, or to square the corners.

@osanshouo1684

6 жыл бұрын

RC Hobbyist Extreme OMG, we get it, dont do front and back like he did... lol😂

Not bad, except for the advice to change the airfoil shape on the leading edge by raising the rib with additional wood to meet the leading edge instead of sanding it. Top Flite T34 ... you should've routed the retract rails slightly over 1/8" to accommodate the gear doors *wink*. You also didn't push your aileron and flap leading and trailing edge pieces down far enough into the ribs; looks like you have to change the airfoil by sanding down to those pieces instead of sanding the trailing and leading edges to meet the rib instead. Oops!

With plans from Stodoys you can make it really easy.