Excellent video and content, thank you JJ.

In 1963 I bought a new J-50 from a Gibson employee that worked in their repair shop. It had the screwed on plastic bridge, and a card that said "This guitar has the new patented bridge, designed and engineered to produce a clearer, more resonant tone, it is a distinct improvement over old style bridges." Thirty some years later I had the bridge replaced by Aaron Crowell, who had also worked in the repair shop at Gibson. He said he had replaced many of these bridges. He masked off the bridge location and removed the finish with acetone so the new bridge could be attached with glue. Aaron recommended I leave the adjustable saddle in place.

Jeff, This is a Great technique for removing finish & setting the bridge. I’m going to try this on my guitar Iam building now. Thank you 👍🎸🎹🎼👨🏻‍🦯👨🏻‍🦯

Jeff, if the gluing surface of the bridge has been profiled to the arched surface of the top. It seams that routing the top of the guitar would leave the surface flat. Now the two surfaces would not match. Could you comment on that. Also do you cut a rebate along the edge of the bridge under surface.

@JewittGuitars

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Good point. No - I don't profile the bottom of the bridge. I also excavate the perimeter to the bridge outline.

@jamesmartinez1320

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@@JewittGuitars Thank You that helps. Thanks for your great videos on Robbie's Luthier Academy website.

Opps....Final Thoughts?