lot's of great info here...except for one tiny, little detail. You used the wrong thread chart. NFT is for tapered pipe thread. The 0.54"/13.72mm diameter is more than double the diameter you would need for 1/4-20. A UNC chart would have given you the correct thread width of 0.25"/6.35mm. I only post this because I needed to put a 1/4-20 thread in a part. Thought it seemed kinda big when I was plugging in the numbers. But everything else in here is gold!

thank you, you are the cause for my ability to advance my self with 3d modeling skill

Short, well explained and easy to follow! Thank you for the great video!

Thank you so much for this! Appreciate how clear it is for beginners, once I figured the thread size out, your instructions made it easy to replicate.

Thank You, I love simplicity especially without losing the Important things ... Great Work ... Please keep us informed and keep us the Good Work ... Thank You .. All the Best and above all - now - Stay Safe ...

Absolute hands down awesome tutorial, keep em coming.

Awesome tutorial. Thanks for sharing, particularly your approach to accounting for tolerances.

@TheEpiphanyShow

4 жыл бұрын

Your welcome, important thing to remember is that every printer is a little different so make a few small test prints to gauge how much you need to add in for your printer. Once you get a feel for it you won’t need to do that every time.

Fantastic video!! Very well explained and I learned something else as well, aligning 2 objects 😅👏. So glad I now know that 👍

I know this is an older vid but I just watched it. THANK YOU! Helped me out for sure.

Great tutorial! I was modeling a base for my wyze camera and this was perfect

Interesting tutorial. I like that part where you changed how gradual the threads are formed. Thank you once again for this tutorial

@TheEpiphanyShow

4 жыл бұрын

Your welcome!

@fpvtrys2632

4 жыл бұрын

yes you saved the day. Ephiphany Printing

Thanks a million for this one - really clearly explained and helpful

Thanks for making this so simple and understandable.

Nice video. Easy and concise. Thanks bro!

Thanks, your video taught me how to make my first 3d printed threads. Thanks!

So helpful! Much appreciated! I actually didn't think that Tinkercad was so 'advanced' to even generate threads...

That was awsome and very helpful. Only just starting out with Tinkercad. Thankyou very much.

@TheEpiphanyShow

4 жыл бұрын

Hey glad you liked it! If you want help with anything just let me know!

Thanks so much for this. Very simple and easy to follow. Wasn't sure where to begin to decide how much bigger to make the threads in the hole when designing a nut and bold.

@TheEpiphanyShow

3 жыл бұрын

Your welcome! If you need help on anything just leave a comment on one of my videos and I’ll do my best to help you out.

Great, strait to subject video. Thank You

What you did there is convinced me to get Tinkercad. And, ya I'd like you to show us how to put a thread on a sphere. That would be my end goal but as a newbie to cad. It's going to be fun figuring it out. Great vid. Subbed.

I'm going to have to try this! Thanks!

Great tutorial!

Thanks for the tutorial!!!

Saved me a lot of time and stress. Cheers 🍻

Awesome job at explaining, need this to try and make fake suppressor

Aren’t pipe threads (NPT) supposed to have a taper to them? I thought that is what you were going to explain. Otherwise, these are just normal threads, or am I missing something?

easy to follow step by step cheers

This saved my a lot of money, even with paying other to print my things. Thread adapters are way to expensive... Thank you!

The tutorial is interesting and clear. But, if you want to print everything in 3D, you also have to pay attention to the distance between each thread in the nut, or you will not be able to screw it in until the end. To check this, make the thread (in this case the cylinder) transparent, insert the screw and check the difference. A small adjustment in the height of the inner thread will be sufficient.

@stoklasajiri2426

Жыл бұрын

You only have to extend the width . The whole object must not be expanded! This would change the pitch of the thread and it cannot be screwed at all. It is only necessary to create a gap to the sides. Counterpart only width :P . I think about 10% So if the screw has a width of, say, 16.5mm, just calculate 1% is 0.165 X 10 = 1.65 mm ( 16.5 + 1.65 = 18.15 mm counterpart

This is excellent, thanks very much

I think you can change it to imperial inch, ie, "Edit Grid" bottom right.

very useful, Thanks !!

bro thank you for your help/content.

Thanks for sharing this video and information

Thanks for the tutorial. The volcano hotend will make a huge difference in print quality, and print speed.

Great video! One question though, aren't pipe threads tapered for a tight fit? Does the thread menu give you that option?

Great tutorial, got a sub!

@TheEpiphanyShow

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot!

Well done. Best of 5 I've watched on topic. More on pitch would be welcome. "PLA shrinks twice nozzle diameter" is interesting. Anyone else find this x-y regularity? Z-shrinkage?

Thank you.

thank you this helped a lot!

@TheEpiphanyShow

3 жыл бұрын

Your welcome!

Thank you

thanks for this

Thanks!

Ever tried printing these in nylon? I'd imagine it would work well for holding air pressure. I use overture nylon for threaded carabiners and they are waaaaay stronger than my pla+ or petg carabiners. It shrinks like 1 or 2 percent on its own, so the threads match right up.

Thanks for this. Btw - you don't need to stay in millimeters. You can change to inches in "Edit Grid" bottom right.

@Mr2greys

Жыл бұрын

But why would you want to? Metric has much more granularity

@andreascollin4842

Жыл бұрын

@@Mr2greysIf you need a thread in inch????

@kikook222

Жыл бұрын

When designing a specific part to fit somewhere you sometimes only have inches to work with and it's far easier to machine in a unit you took pre-existing measurements for rather than opening yourself up to conversion errors by trying to use both.

@larryrobinson7492

Жыл бұрын

@@Mr2greys Are you retarded? One isn't better than another it's just another form of measurement that you obviously don't understand. It's like saying the color green is BETTER than blue, no it's just different. Imperial in the USA is better because everything here is measured and available that way. I use metric as needed but imperial makes more sense to us because that's how everything around us is measured.

@vegaspitbikes

Жыл бұрын

Millimeters is more accurate

Lol you Could measure it or ..... google !! 😂 man after my own heart !!! Ive got a cheap knock off Dermal rotery too I need to 3d print a threded adapter so I can put it into a vice. Also subbed!

Just like drilling a hole for a new bolt. You have to size it up. 👍🏽good stuff

Thank You BRo!!

I spent hours trying to find an easy solution to a fastener. I watched the first 5 minutes and then pulled a Homer Simpson when I realized there was a "Featured" section in Tinkercad. Thanks!!

I never thought about why the holes were smaller. Nice

That's awesome. Thanks

@TheEpiphanyShow

4 жыл бұрын

No problem glad you liked it!

Hey, thanks for explaining this. I have a air pressure spike regulator i am working on, and its funny that you mentioned air pressure at the end. I always anneal my pla+ and sometimes vapor smooth also for best pressure holding results. Did you ever end up testing it?

Clever 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

Is it possible to make lengths of threaded bar more then 20 Rotation ? Cheers great Video..

Great video,Thanks for posting as I'm printing Bolts and nuts that don't want to work together,I'm going to try this method 👌👌

@TheEpiphanyShow

2 жыл бұрын

Best of luck! Remember to make a few smaller test print to get your tolerances for your printed dialed in. Also rubbing some candle wax on the threads will help them go together a little bit easier.

@richiekaye1103

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheEpiphanyShow I've got some Beeswax,But I also once added a little heat to a fastner to cut the thread into The plastic,Again nothing that needs torquing down

@richiekaye1103

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheEpiphanyShow So I took your advice on a 16mm thread that I designed but made the recieving female thread 18mm ( As 17.5 was too tight) Still not as smooth as I'd like but it's screwing in with the help of some olive oil😂

If you go to the setting menu you can change the measurements to inches instead of mm

Wow, thanks but are there no inner and outer thread radius adjustments?

thanks a lot. i made a 14mm cc thread for airsoft. I made the thread hole 15,5mm. it fits tight on the 14mm thread.

@tgntech7414

Жыл бұрын

Thank you I want to do the same! Glad it worked!

finally getting around to trying to learn tinkercad, & this is SUPER helpful! thanks from a new subscriber!

@TheEpiphanyShow

3 жыл бұрын

Hey, I’m glad you found the video helpful! If you find yourself getting stuck on something or would like to know how to do something just comment on one of my videos and I’ll try my best to get you some help!

Thanks

@TheEpiphanyShow

4 жыл бұрын

Glad it helped!

Excellent argument for scrapping imperial measurements. Well done. Subscribed.

Excellent tutorial

Do you know how to control the minor diameter as well as the Major diameter? i.e. an M12 thread has a Major diameter of 12mm and a minor of 10.106mm. When making the female threaded part if the minor is too small, the bolt won't start in the hole.

How about tapered threads?

Great video. Question, I have the need for 3x2 bushings with NPT threads. Cast iron is expensive and hard to find, plus costly to ship. Is it possible to 3D print? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for this converting to imperial had me stumped..

Elegant solution to getting the pitch when handed threads per inch.

Are you able to actually add the taper?

This looks great. The only thing I want to add is that NPT thread is tapered. NC or NF is not.

This is great thanks. How would I change the length though? You have created 1 inch of thread. Do you do the math to scale it or is there an easier way to make it a different length?

did you ever make the pressure chamber ?

Any guide for unknow treads mesurement

where can we get that iso metric thread you started with?

i cannot find the threads in any category. also there is no featured category in my list. do you have to have an upgraded membership to get the featured category?

When printing, do you need support? I know the threads have some angle to them, but if support is needed when printing can it be cleaned out well?

@_nom_

2 жыл бұрын

No. They don't hang enough

Who would/could have guessed what tip scale meant without this?

Do you know how to put the threads on the outside of a cylinder? I am trying to replicate my pool vacuum adapter from intex to summerwave pool? One cylinder needs the threads on the inside and one needs threads on the outside with a tube to connect both of them.

I’m trying to make a stash jar with a screw I top. I’ve been trying everything to get it to screw together. I’ve tried every mm possible and it still won’t do it. Any advice?

Good video BUT,, how would you make the same bolt/thread pattern in a longer bolt, 3" long????????????

Thank you so much. Im a beginner trying to make custom nerf blasters to sell and have wars!

Im struggling to put small items like rivets on models

I got a question, if I need a thread of more than 20 rotations how do I generate it? the thread generator doesn't support more than 20 rotations

What if you need more than 20 rotations? Say I wanted to print a 10" threaded rod.

I need left hand threads.

I have a paint roller that has a custom thread on it ( so you buy the companies extension pole), how do I go about measuring the internal thread size and pitch so I can print out an adapter?

@TheEpiphanyShow

4 жыл бұрын

They make a tool for it but I’m assuming you don’t have it or want to buy one. What I would do is stick something inside the threads until it bottoms out for the length and make a mark on it. Then I would use something like an o-ring pick to feel the bumps of the thread. In a straight line every bump should be 1 thread. Take the length and divide it by the number of threads. For example 50mm/25 threads = 2 threads per mm. If it’s 10mm wide it would be a M10 x 2.

@AndrewAHayes

4 жыл бұрын

@@TheEpiphanyShow Thanks that sounds good to me!

What if I want threads longer than 1"?

Did you ever pressure test this?

Ii need a generator up to 100mm diameter, where i can find?

an NPT thread without the taper is not NPT. so how would you add the taper?

Can you use tinkercad to add an existing SDL, and use tinkercad to measure a piece of that object that has a recessed section? Everytime I use the ruler it just shows how tall the object is and thats it. So like a box, it wont show how deep the inside of the box is

@TheEpiphanyShow

Жыл бұрын

Unfortunately not. Best you can really do with tinkercad In this situation is make an object and merge the original as a hole and that would leave you with the void then you could use the measuring tool on that. Freecad is well free and the measuring tool is pretty easy to use.

I'm trying to make a #6 Machine Screw and it's not working. I enter the numbers and it just makes the screw too skinny and the threads too large. It's frustrating.

Did they not have imperial measure as an option when you made this? Because I certainly can work in inches on TinkerCAD.

@TheEpiphanyShow

3 жыл бұрын

Irrc at the time if I designed something in tinkercad in imperial when importing it into my slicing software it would convert to mm but not correctly. So 1” would become 1mm and you would have to convert it anyways. I’m not sure that’s the case anymore. Additionally I design almost everything with metric measurements in mind since most of the world that is what is standard so it’s commonplace for me now.

I guess instead of doing the inch to mm conversion you could have changed the units used in Edit Grid.

@TheEpiphanyShow

4 жыл бұрын

This is true but I would say most of the world uses MM and not inches.

@zumbazumba1

4 жыл бұрын

@@TheEpiphanyShow Realy? only 192 out of 195.Liberia myanmar and usa are only country's that use caveman measuring system in 2020.

so for simplicity sake. You have made a nut and a bolt. The bolt has a starting thread, but when you look at the nut. When you do the center alignment do you have to make sure the nut has a starting thread at both ends too ?

@dakkygames8508

4 жыл бұрын

No you don’t. At least not from my experience

You know you can change the units to inches in tinkercad. Click Edit Grid in the bottom right corner.

i need to make a compound miter setup block for a table saw . measurements are: 1st one 70 mm top 195 mm bottom 60 mm high. the second one is: 90 mm top 210 mm bottom 80 mm high any tips?

@TheEpiphanyShow

Жыл бұрын

I suppose I’m confused on what exactly your making. I usually use a sled type jig for repeating mitre cuts. Might you be able to explain it better here or email me a link/drawing to what your looking to make? TheEpiphanyShowyt@gmail

wouldn't you get a tighter fit if you printed it undersized and then ran a tap through it after printing?

@TheEpiphanyShow

2 жыл бұрын

Yes you could, but your weakening it at the same time since you will be cutting your outer wall layers. Once you have tuned your printer you should be able to get pretty tight fitting parts. In fact most of the time I have to give mine a bit of a rub with some wax for easy operation.

Great tutorial but when I came to put it into practice I discovered there's no way to control the thread height with this tool so "any thread" should be "many threads". I wonder why such a critical parameter is missing?

Not sure if you'll still be checking comments on this, but I have had such a hard time using trial-and-error to create a custom valve stem cap for my car tires. Can you help me figure out how to do this?

@TheEpiphanyShow

3 жыл бұрын

I can help you out with this.

@CTRstocks

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheEpiphanyShow 🏆🥇Thank you! Private message? New video follow-up?

@TheEpiphanyShow

3 жыл бұрын

@@CTRstocks Video follow up

@MotoChicken

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheEpiphanyShow So I just couldn't let this keep me awake at night anymore (not literally), so I spent some more time and was able to figure it out. I had been using dimensions I found online for Schrader (standard wheel) valves, those were (6.9mm x 0.784mm) in one place, but (7.7mm x 0.784mm) in another. Pretty sure those are incorrect or I have to use different dimensions when 3D printing. For my Ender 3 Pro, I had to set the diameter to 9.25mm, pitch 0.79mm, and everything else left as default. From there, I changed the shape from "Solid" to "Hole", nested it inside my design, and BAM! It worked. Thanks for offering to do a follow-up video, if you have already started it I still think it would be a useful video to add to your channel.

Tinkercad does let you use inches