You have given a young bloke hope . Split my 20 , plates off ect . Didnt think I could do it with the crank in once I first tried . Thanks for the video . I’ll go tear it all out after my cuppa Tea .

@BundyBearsShed

5 ай бұрын

Go for it

@scottallpress3818

5 ай бұрын

@@BundyBearsShed all done and back together tonight . Thanks for the tips on that . Saved me pulling the crank and probably doing a full rebuild while I’m at it

I've just spent 2 hours of my life getting that bugger out in little pieces, nightmare of a job but its very reassuring having such detailed videos to refer to.

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Yes they are a bugger to get out when they have gone hard.

@temotu518

2 жыл бұрын

Yep...2hrs I'll never get back! Now to put new one in......need a nights sleep in preparation!

Hi from merry England Lance. Ive just bought my first tractor a TEF, with a sack-full of oil leaks to investigate. I appreciate that this isn't a TEF in the vid and the job may be different, but just wanted to say how much I am learning from your excellent videos in general. Cheers and beers

@BundyBearsShed

Жыл бұрын

Glad to help. The TEF is an easier seal by miles.

Dont know what we'd do without ya Lance, much appreciated!

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

You would get by Im sure.

Hello Lance, That was a new visual experience for me. Just looks like you have to be persistent and have patience. Many Thanks , Charles.

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Yes the grease helps tremendously. It is a bit fiddly though.

Rear main seals are inherently a bugger due to the flywheel mounting flange. Manufacturers have come up with lots of different designs for the seal, mostly a bugger to get in, easy to have them leak if not careful putting them in though. You made that look easy Lance.

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Lets hope the bugger doesnt leak1 lol.

Excellent couple of videos!

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much!

Thank you Lance. Always wondered how that got done!

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Glad to help, I was having a refresher doing this myself.

Thanks to this vid it took me 15 mins, I pulled it out towards the flywheel flange, then kept it still with a screwdriver pushing down on it, and cut it all the way around along the crankcase flange with a sharp knife, pulled the pieces out (which crumpled ofcourse) then whipped the inner bits out.

@BundyBearsShed

Жыл бұрын

It is a fiddly job at times

G'day, Lance. Thank you for sharing this. i guess anytime one splits a tractor, change all the clutch parts and the oil seal once it's apart, eh?

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Yes that is what I tend to do, you dont want to be in there too often.

Mr Bear, you still have not made a video about an electric tractor yet, this is outrageous! people are dying! how dare you!

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

I was going to buy one but the battery went flat.

BTW, love that splitter track set up. too bad they are so expensive.

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Yes they are, I have made them in the past using a TE20 King Pin thrust bearing. Ill try and remember to show it.

The seal i got supplied to begin with was a Vapourmatic - It looks like the Sparex ones are much more pliable from your video! I managed to damage my seal on the first attempt - now ordered some Sparex ones ..

@BundyBearsShed

10 ай бұрын

I have damaged them as well while fitting them, I always get two of them now. It is a bugger of a job really.

@bch5758

10 ай бұрын

The Sparex ones are definitely a LOT more pliable than the Vapourmatic ones.. (they arrived today!) - I went a bit overkill and ordered 4 Sparex ones to be on the extra safe side 😂

@BundyBearsShed

10 ай бұрын

Better safe than sorry.

G’day, looks like it takes a fair bit of gentle manipulation to get it in, I can see it being easy to leak if you don’t take care with the seal picks and screwdrivers and not taking notice the lip hasn’t fully rolled around. Engine manufacturers always seem to find the hardest way to fit a rear main seal. Cheers Peter

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah it is a bit of a fiddle but certainly easy enough to do. The grease made a big difference.

@pvfos

2 жыл бұрын

According to the workshop manual, the sump should be removed, and then there's free access via 2 bolts on the main bearing clamp. Its also recommended to change the seal on both sides of the rear main bearing holder/clamp once you are there. I've done this and the main rear seal is easy accessible without sump installed.

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

@@pvfos I have when doing a reco in the engine too but some dont want it done like that and thats fine.

@pgs8597

2 жыл бұрын

G’day Paul. Thanks for the info. Cheers Peter

Gday Lance, Bit off topic but would you be able to do a video on converting front wheel hubs from oil to grease on the TE20? Cheers

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

All of the new seals now a days are for grease so nothing really you need to do just clean, grease and fit.

Hi Lance, great videos, following your workflow to renovate my tea20, just had a problem refitting the bolts that compress the rear crankshaft seal, one of the bolts must have had a fracture in it and snapped off before I got any pressure on it, so could you tell me what the size and thread is for the eight bolts. Regards John

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

I think they are 1/4 unf but now Im second guessing that they were 1/4 unc so if it is a fine thread unf

@johnwhitelam5764

2 жыл бұрын

@@BundyBearsShed thanks much appreciated

Another great video, thanks. When I started to take my 1952 TEF apart, it was slightly different. There were 6 bolts with lock tabs and no rubber seal as far as I could see. Is this because yours was a TEA? Now I'm stuck and unsure what to do?

@BundyBearsShed

Жыл бұрын

The TEf has a lip seal so pull the round housing off and replace the seal, way easier job than this.

@ezeehitch

Жыл бұрын

@@BundyBearsShed OK thanks

the rearseal replacement video is different from what i have theres two bolts comig in from oilpan on the bottom

@BundyBearsShed

5 ай бұрын

You may havee a different engine thei is a Standard Motor Company engine.

Hello Lance! I have a TE20 (serial number 27495) with the Z120 engine. Do you know if the Sparex S41725 rear crankshaft seal which you used in this video will work on my tractor/engine? I appreciate any help you can give me, and I really enjoy your videos.

@BundyBearsShed

Жыл бұрын

Not that I know of it seems to be for the Brittish engines. Go to Steiner tractor parts it looks like you have a rope seal like a Perkins.

@stevenandkimmetzger880

Жыл бұрын

@@BundyBearsShed , thank you Lance!

Hi Lance - this may be a dumb question, but can the rear cranckshaft seal be changed without draining the engine oil? You did not mention if it should be drained first.

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

It doesnt need to be but I find the old seal crumbles a little so it would be best to drain it and pull the strainer and clean inside in case some goes the wrong way.

So just to clarify, the split goes to the top of the shaft, 12.00 o clock positioning? Regards 🇬🇧

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Yes that is what I do, it just makes sense to have it at the highest possible place.

Put in kettle warm it up or billiebong good day to ya

@BundyBearsShed

Жыл бұрын

Good idea I had not thought of that.

Hi Lance, never seen one like that before, is thar common to any other Ferguson engine ?. Is the core plug we can see above left of the seal for coolant ? Maybe a good opportunity to do that too . Thanks.

@garethdavies3220

2 жыл бұрын

That core plug looks more like the camshaft blanking plug on reflection ? Cheers.

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Core plug is as you say below the back of the camshaft. All Ferguson Petrols have the same set up I believe.

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Yep.

i have a 1948 to20 tractor do i have to drop oilpan to change rearseal ? theres two bolts comibg from inside oilpan /

@BundyBearsShed

5 ай бұрын

I think the TO is a continental engine and different from this one.

Maybe dumb question, but what is the symptom of a bad seal on these? I have a 1949 Te20 and am having an issue with the PTO. I use a rough cut mower on the 3pt hitch, and it always drops down slowly so that I have to put a block or something under it so that it doesn't get stuck in the dirt when I start it. Is this an issue with a seal somewhere? Shouldn't it stay elevated after I shut it off?

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Leaky seal is just oil in the bell housing and possibly a sticky clutch because of it. They wont stay up it is how they are made. when we get to the hydraulics I will show a fix of sorts for that.

@karlhungus545

2 жыл бұрын

@@BundyBearsShed Awesome, keep them coming 👍 Hello from Saskatchewan!

Hello, what direction does this put in the joint?

@BundyBearsShed

17 күн бұрын

The lip goes forward to the oil.

I replaced my seal the other day what an absolute bastard the old seal is to get out. It took me about 1.5 hours to get it out in small pieces!!! there must be a better way?, the new seal took about 5 mins to put in however

@BundyBearsShed

Ай бұрын

There is a better way but that includes dropping the sump etc so this is the long short cut.

I have a TE20 with a lever on the left side. Has something to due with the pto. What can it do?

@johntaylor1947

2 жыл бұрын

The lever on the left engages and disengages the pto output shaft.

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

It engages the rear PTO shaft and it must be engaged for the hydraulics to work.

Is this the same as z120 continental

@BundyBearsShed

Жыл бұрын

I dont think so but we didnt have that engine here in australia so I cant really say for sure.

@johnstevenson975

11 ай бұрын

@@BundyBearsShed yea some say rope seal others say rubber in tin case but few spanner’s later will tell the truth 😅

@jayframes4967

2 ай бұрын

​@@johnstevenson975Hey John, what did you find out? I too have the z120 continental!

@johnstevenson975

2 ай бұрын

Rubber seal but sump has to come of to as two bottom ones are bolts and heads are in the sump

They could have come up with a better design to get to and replace that seal.

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

This was just how it was done 70 years ago but it is a bit of a pain in the bum to do alright.

@MrRandyj72

2 жыл бұрын

@@BundyBearsShed im planning on buying two seals when I do mine because i know im gonna screw up the first one

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Dont feel bad I have done that as well

7/16 arse????? 1/4 bolt 7/16 head AF //SAE wit Thread

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Close enough.

@pm270100

2 жыл бұрын

@@BundyBearsShed good vid well done

That oil seal is a miserable design and I have to replace mine I am not looking forward to that.

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

Once the hard old seal was gone the rest was quite an easy job, splitting the tractor is the biggest part of it all.

Hi Barry. Thanks for making this video's.. Very helpful. I get the other Fergi and it sounds like this.. big end gone? Yes I know I shouldn't turn the engine without liners blocked. Haven't remove the sump yet... kzread.info/dash/bejne/mYaJ2sSAoa6pdNI.html

@BundyBearsShed

2 жыл бұрын

I think it sounds like either big end bearing wear or the rings are sloppy in the grooves. Either way I would drop the sump and remove the pistons for a look, you are almost there now.