Just go to an auto parts store and get a nylon washer like what is used on your oil drain plug. They should have a box of different sizes. Have used them for years on my Holley or Holley also sells Viton washers for E85, not an O-ring. Hope this helps

@davidleet9501

23 күн бұрын

I agree. Any bolted joint (and this is a bolted joint) needs stiffness both in the bolt and the clamped material. In this case the power valve is the bolt, and the gasket is the clamped material. It’s like two stiff springs in opposition, the bolt in tension, the gasket in compression. The nylon washer you mention should be sufficiently stiff. I think you have the proper solution to this chronic issue.

This does work as a gasket. I have been chasing some strange hesitations and surging. I noticed the carb rebuilder for my 2150 used two gaskets, there was no fuel in the power valve cover however I did notice there was some between the two gaskets, so it was possibly not a tottaly air tight seal. 🤔 Either way, I got some viton o rings from Harbor Freight about $11 and so far so good. I have a single stage with a lip, I had to go quite small on the o ring size to where that lip has to sort of seat into it as you carefully screw the PV down. I was able to get it tight enough without it squeezing the O ring out, however it is possible to over tighten it and cause that. There is a very fine line between too loose and too tight. I did also go up two jet sizes and back timning off at the same time so I am unsure if the O ring alone solved my problem, but it does work as described. 👍

I just rebuilt an old 2100, the kit did not have correct seal for a single stage. I am glad to see someone who actually knows what he is talking about, not just the normal "I am doing this the first time and it is easy"... The two-stage seals that came with the kit seem too thick to work, creating a situation mentioned. The kit came with a float bowl seal from perhaps 60¨s or something, it is of light color with text on it, and it is like impregnated with something wax-like that can withstand gas. Sadly it was the one not right for the carb, so I had to use one of the modern black ones. Living in Finland, we are like a far-away state of the US , there is a sayihg that if there are only two rare (American-) cars in the whole world left, one of those is in Finland... When I was young, I used to have a Valiant 100 -64, Ford LTD -67 with 428, Newport -78 with 440, etc. Now H3, Blazer -79, and just building a Ford Taunus (Cortina) to have a 302 with that 2100 carb( will be like a Fox-body Ford). Our commies have never liked that we are perhaps the most American country in the Europe... :D

Just did that (thanks to you) on my 62 Galaxie. Problem solved! Perfect idle and response to acceleration. No more black fumes. Thank you so much!

@ctuan13

3 жыл бұрын

That's great! I'm glad you were able to solve the issue, too!

OK, so what size O-ring are you using?? Could you look at the box and tell us what size you used for the single stage and for the double stage? I'm guessing that Grainger or Mcmaster would sell packets of the correct diameter & thickness ring.

Just stumbled onto this video. I've got a 71' F100, 302 cid and it slowly has been giving me problems with the emissions testing. I don't drive it much but maybe once a week and from one year to the next the hydrocarbons at idle would be higher and higher. Idle has been pretty on and off again, as sometimes its ok and other times its bad. I'm not getting any knocking, but at full throttle I'm lucky to get it up to 70mph. With the rebuild kit that's on its way and if I get the Viton O-rings, I would have almost been better off getting one of those new carbs for $80...But at least now I know where the problem most likely lies. Thanks a bunch!! Also, for anyone doing a rebuild. Make sure the float bowl needle's cone shaped surface is concentric. The one in my last rebuild kit was so poorly shaped I couldn't use it.

Found I had this exact issue, after chasing my tail for a few days. Took mine PV off and sure as hell, full of fuel. Single stage with a new gasket (I rebuilt this carb just a few weeks ago). For now I used a new gasket, and coated it lightly inside and out with permatex gasket sealant, the type in a little tin, with a brush. It's impervious to gas, so I hope it will note leak. If it starts to exhibit symptoms again I'll go with a vitol O-ring. Thanks for posting this! I'm not enjoying glassy smooth idle, and performance is outstanding!

Thank you for this video!!! I have been chasing this demon for months now the symptoms you explained are exactly what I’m chasing. I will be switching out gasket to an o-ring and I will update you on the results.

@ctuan13

5 жыл бұрын

Hey man, I'm glad you found my video helpful! And I hopefully this fix, eliminated all your performance issues.

I needed this, my 351 has been surging and have been unable to find it.... thank you.

@hankmatthews2557

3 жыл бұрын

Yep, this solved my surging problem. Runs so smooth now. Thanks

Great video. Hey guys I bought a set of viton seals at harbor freight for $9.99

@ctuan13

4 жыл бұрын

Hey you got a good deal!

Ok, so there should be no fuel at all on the cover side of the power valve, right? I keep having fuel leaks onto the manifold from the leaking PV cover.

I have had over a hundred carbs apart that have the same valve. I have never seen a leaky gasket, lots of blown valve diaphragms, but never the gasket.

Good explanation of what the power valve does and how it works, well done 👍

Just thinking if a machinist cut a grove for the o ring it would hold it in place that is the way it would be done if it held high pressure like hydraulics

Excellent. Will try. Thanks. I Rebuilt my 2150 carb a year ago. Now it dies if I'm not raving. Power valve was leaking bad. Replaced, still a leak. Would love you to do a carb rebuild video.

@ctuan13

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks man, I'll think about it! Was it just your gasket leaking like I document in this video or was it actually the valve diaphragm itself?

I'm wondering if there is such a thing as a viton flat washer type gasket out there. I haven't tried your trick yet but I haven't ever had much luck with putting a round o-ring between two flat surfaces in the past. Additionally, not tightening it down very much dosen't sound very reliable in the long run. It seems to me with hot/cold cycles and vibration it may not be a permanent fix.

I have the same problem on a brand new carb. will try this.

I recently rebuilt my 2100 carburetor I have done that 4 other times through the course of owning the car its own and it didn't have this surging problem before. In order keep the car idling the choke being activated helps a lot but at 1500 to 2000 rpm when its open I have to hold the brakes and work the throttle to keep it running at traffic lights. I'm trying to understand the diagnostic direction to go through.

Great solution Chuck!

I have gas leaking out and onto the intake manifold from the power valve gasket. Should gas even be leaking from there or do I have a problem with my power valve. I also have gas in my carb spacer plate that builds up

So, I've watched 3 of your videos on the power valve. Done very well. I never knew what that little sucker did when I rebuilt my 2150. However, I'm a little perplexed as to how I have not experienced this issue. Have I just been lucky? I've owned a 77 F250 since 1987 and have rebuilt the carb twice and have yet to experience the symptoms of the leaky gasket. Anyway, you still deserve many props for a job well done... teaching this old fart something new.

@ctuan13

3 жыл бұрын

First lemme just say, thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching! As for why you've never had this issue, maybe you've just gotten lucky with older stock rebuild kits? It seems the biggest issues have been with newer kits and newer gasket materials from china. They are very noticeably lower quality. Even when I can find old stock gaskets I always use a viton o-ring now, but if I had to use a gasket, I'm betting the old ones would hold much better than the new ones.

@hvacguru-Kansas

3 жыл бұрын

@@ctuan13 Well, in all fairness, my latest rebuild was about 1 month ago. Maybe there hasn't been enough time for the gasket to start leaking. Anyway, if it does, I now know the symptoms and the cure. Thanks again.

I think this may be my issue! What do you think about the green nitrile o-ring gaskets? They are also fuel resistant. Great video, very easy to understand.. Awesome explanation! Appreciate ya! Thank you

Were you finding fuel in the cover or was it dry because the fuel was sucked into the carb from the vacuum? Mine is running extremely rich and the power valve cover is dry inside. Its still runs when the mixture screws are turned all the way in and the float level is good, fuel pressure is good as is the choke position. Ill try this oring out. Hopfully the threads arent leaking by basically acting as if the power valve was open. But it is dry under the cover so im not totally convinced my gasket is leaking.

@ctuan13

Жыл бұрын

So for me, I was finding fuel in the cover as my carb uses a two stage power valve with a protruding stem so the cover is deeper. I imagine with a single stage valve and shallower cover, engine vacuum might be enough to suck all of the gas out of the cover.

@Pavelow4433

Жыл бұрын

Thanks ill give it a shot.

I put a viton rubber ring gasket. Like, what you got there. And, I got gas pissing underneath. I don't get why this is a solution. I had no problem like this for 6-7 years with the same carb. Great if it works for you, but it doesn't make sense. If so, how many other 2150/2100 carbs are out there that should be leaking too.?

@ctuan13

5 жыл бұрын

Oh that sucks man, I'm sorry it didnt work for you. All I can say is that before I figured out this trick, the valve gasket would constantly leak and make tuning impossible. It would cause hesitation and other driveability issues. But just a couple things: There shouldn't be any gas leaking from the cover. If there is, than that is an issue with the cover gasket. As for the power valve itself, it's very important that the correct sized gasket is selected, is not over tightened and in the case of a dual stage power valve, properly positioned before tightening. If you had that much fuel pouring out there could be several things wrong. There is likely something up with the cover gasket, the o-ring could be improperly sized, positioned or over or under tightened or the actual power valve itself could have a blown diaphram. I hope that helps and that you get it figured out soon. Power valve issues are always a huge pain in the ass.

@thedevilriders101

5 жыл бұрын

@@ctuan13 Thanks For You're Help. I'll check it out. I think the fake I was using, was the O shape, withheld the 3 inner notches that hold it in place. I have one of those door, so I know installed the O ring, before I tried the rubber Viton ring. I'll check the cover gasket too. Thanks!

@justin1978

11 ай бұрын

​@@thedevilriders101 I know this post is 4 years old, but you may have a warped cover. My cover was leaking because it was warped. Had to sand it flat. Just be careful not to sand too much because then the power valve may touch the inside of the cover and it will warp all over again when you go to tighten it!

@thedevilriders101

11 ай бұрын

@@justin1978 Thanks for your input. I no longer have the car. Never found the solution, and not long after I had other electrical problems. I sold it, and the guy after found out that the distributor was bad. Never mind. Was a 1978 Mercury Monarch, that I owned as my daily driver for about 7 years. Great memories!

Working on a 78 f350 with the 400 4speed manual, same carb! Having issues with getting gas in carb, changed out fuel pump and checd lines and sending units , no blocking of fuel but still can’t get it started without spraying into carb

@Racine2AK

2 жыл бұрын

the last time i had a similar problem like yours, i had air in my fuel lines... a quick youtube search for how to bleed fuel lines might help, it helped me(and good luck)

What kind of gasket can I use for the Accelerater diaphragm pump on my MC 2100? Thanks.

@ctuan13

10 ай бұрын

Any complete rebuild kit should have that included. All the best ones I've seen have been a combo accelerator pump diaphragm and cover gasket where they are one piece.

I used two gaskets and problem solved

@MrDLRu

3 жыл бұрын

The problem he's discussing is with the poor gasket material leaking through the SIDE of a proper thickness (.062) gasket. I had to do the 2 gasket deal on my previous rebuild because the supplied gasket was not thick enough at .030 and the power valve was bottoming out against the carburetor without sealing. My current carb problem was from both the power valve diaphragm and accelerator pump diaphragm leaking. For the rebuild I bought a flat Viton washer(.740 ID x 1.5 OD, $3.30 @ Grainger's) that was equivalent to the proper gasket thickness of .062 thick. I tightened the power valve down to within 1/4 turn from being bottomed out against the carburetor. Hopefully this works out as the Viton washer is 75 Shore A and squishes down somewhat. I don't know if the power valve will stay tight and sealed against the washer is my concern.

I put a small o-ring on inside the washer that way the gas as no way to go through it

Great video… thanks!

Thanks for the video learned alot ....

I commented in your previous video about that solution being incorrect, I believe the solution this video offers is also incorrect. The gasket that comes in the kit does allow gas to seep thru because it is to porous, you have to really tighten the power valve down in order to compress the gasket enough to close the pores. The gasket should really be made of a better material.

@ctuan13

2 жыл бұрын

First, thanks for watching and commenting! As to your point about tightness and leaking, I absolutely understand what you're saying. However unfortunately no matter the tightness I've always begun experiencing leaks after a week or two and the slow progressing nature of these leaks make the carburetor ever more difficult to tune. Although this is definitely not the the by-the-book or technically correct fix, it's by far the best method I've found for a 100% sealed and properly isolated power enrichment circuit as opposed to modern gaskets. Hope this helps!

I just read your reply and as you could probably guess I also have been battling with this continuous leaking of this power valve gasket. After several tries I found that really tightening the gasket was the first time I had no seeping however, it's been only two days trying it this way so I don't know if it is a long term fix. It seemed to me that using an oring you could not tighten that to much or you would deform it and not being able to put enough torque on the valve it would not take long for the valve to loosen because of normal engine vibration. Have you verified it would not loosen? You know I'm not trying to give you problems, I'm trying to solve this problem in the long term myself. I believe a nylon washer of the same size as the original would solve this issue. I would appreciate a collaboration to resolve this problem and if I find what looks like a long term fix I will forward that info to you.

@ctuan13

2 жыл бұрын

I understand what you're saying. I know how frustrating the issue can be, I was simply trying to solve the same issue on my end. Considering I've had this Viton O ring fix installed for over two years now and it's held strong ever since, I'd say I can confirm it works. You make a valid point of not being able to tighten the power valve as much with an o ring versus a gasket, but the beauty of the o ring is that you don't have to. What I found works best is, grease the o ring, put it on the power valve and get it snug. Let it sit for a couple days to take up some natural compression and give it a little more of a turn and it should be good to install. I'll also say it's best with dingle stage power valves with a lip. Dual stage power valves with a flat surface may not work very well. Hope this helps!

Would this also explain why after a couple of days my old truck needs to be pumped several times to get it to start? After it's warm there's no problem,bump start! I guess I'm really asking if it drains the fuel bowl if it is leaking. Thanks Randy

@ctuan13

5 жыл бұрын

Oh yeah, that's quite possible. Obviously any carb is going to suffer evaporative losses of fuel from the bowl and usually be dry after a week or so of sitting. But if its leaking down after only two days, that seems like a power enrichment circuit leak. Probably need to crank a lot longer to fill the bowl. If you've verified that the power valve itself is not the culprit, you may very well be suffering from a gasket leak. If you remove carb after having just run the engine and then remove the power valve vacuum cover and fuel pours out, you have your answer about a leak either through the gasket or the valve itself. I hope this helps!

@RandyWBrown

5 жыл бұрын

@@ctuan13 Ok good to know, kind of what I was thinking but not certain. The most irritating problem is that it has a spot early in the throttle where I can move it forward 1/4" if that and it will die. If I feather the throttle it will be ok after about 5-10 minutes depending on the outside temperature. Everyone tells me I have a vacuum leak including the carburetor place I bought the new one from back in May. Alot of ppl say it's your accelerator pump. Well the accelerator pump is not involved when I can just turn the curb idle screw down far enough to duplicate the problem. The carburetor place insisted I change that out along with 56 sized jets and a new accelerator pump at their cost as its still under warranty. All this being done along with new spacer gaskets and unhooking ALL vacuum line and plugging them, same results. Unless it's an intake leak I have no leak! Spraying carb cleaner around the base didn't result in any speed change until I sprayed around the throttle shaft. Carb place said that was normal as they re-bushed the shaft opening. I'm tired of fighting an almost year long battle with this thing. Well that's my story, Oh and it does run great on the highway with good acceleration. If you have any ideas that I have missed I'd be more than willing to try it. Thanks for responding and keep up the good vids Best regards Randy

@ctuan13

5 жыл бұрын

Randy W. Brown How much change in RPM are you getting by spraying around the throttle shaft? If its more than a very slight change, that’s not normal and you still have a throttle shaft leak. With a dynamic leak like that, you’ll have a damn near impossible time trying to tune for that, since it will always be slightly changing.

@RandyWBrown

5 жыл бұрын

@@ctuan13 Thanks for responding, It is a pretty drastic change. I'd guess approximately 2-300 rpm increase. Thanks Randy

@vinced2514

4 жыл бұрын

A leaking PV can definitely cause the the hard starting symptom described, i.e. after sitting for a day or two, fuel bowl will empty and lots of cranking will be required to fill the bowl and get the truck started. I know because I just went through this exact same issue on my truck and after I replaced the PV, the truck can sit for days at a time and will start up immediately.

I have this stuff called Aviation Form a gasket that I applied to the threads of my fuel pressure regulator to stop a fuel leak. It's supposed to be non-hardening, why not apply a little bit of that to the threads of the power valve? Because that seems to be were the leak would occur and the reason you need a o-ring gasket?

I stopped the leak with a plastic washer

Tried this, still leaks. I've used paper gasket. Tried the Viton o-ring from Amazon, still leaked, went to a viton impregnated paper gasket (and another new power valve,) still leaked. I'm going to try an aluminum crush washer next. This problem is driving me crazy.

@ctuan13

5 жыл бұрын

Really? That's crazy that nothing has worked. But I would advise against the aluminum crush washer since the carb body is already incredibly soft. If you try to get it tight enough to crush the washer, you will definitely strip the threads. I've never had an issue with the viton o-ring. But the key is proper sizing. If you select one that is too large, it'll still leak. Also dont overtighten the valve and apply some lubricant to allow it to tighten without binding up. Over tightening can deform the gasket and cause a leak and tightening dry can tear the o-ring. Does your carb have a single or two stage power valve? With a single stage you want to size one that is small enough that it only slips over the ridge once its tightened down. For a two stage, it needs to sit evenly close to the inner most edge of the valve when tightened. I thing it's also worth inspecting the carb body looking for cracks, since a small crack in the carb body can drive you insane.

@joejoepop

5 жыл бұрын

Crush washer didn't work, even when really tight it still seeped really really slowly. Trying again with the o ring, a different size, only hand tight this time. Not leaking yet, but I'm testing it on the bench over night.

@joejoepop

5 жыл бұрын

OK, the viton oil ring seems to be working now, not even a little bit of seepage and has been sitting with a bowl full of fuel on the bench over night. The trick this time seems to be that I only tightened it hand tight, no tightening with the wrench this time. I think the last attempt failed because I tightened the o ring too much. Thanks for posting this video.

@ctuan13

5 жыл бұрын

@@joejoepop No worries man! Theres a reason I posted this series of videos; it's because I got so frustrated by the issue, that when I discovered my solution, I knew I had to share it with others! I'm glad it worked for ya!

@crazycat1345

5 жыл бұрын

I am suffering from the same problem. I finally gave up on FORD SHIT... I had problems from a brand new carb so fuck it.

Mine is leaking fuel, why is that ?

@ctuan13

4 жыл бұрын

Well if you are finding fuel is leaking into the into the vacuum bowl, then gas is either leaking past the gasket or the valve diaphragm itself has a leak. Check out an older video I did on testing a power valve, here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/Y5aNuLmDpc-Zqps.html If your power valve tests as okay with no leaks, then the gasket is your issue. I'd definitely use the Viton o-ring. If it still seems to seep with the o-ring make sure it isnt too tight, or too loose and that you've selected the correct size. I hope this helps!

Sorry but I think this is a bad solution. I would like to see the gasket you’re using but I bet you’ve got the wrong gasket with that type of power valve. The one in your video screenshot is absolutely the wrong one for that power valve because of the step on the threaded side of the power valve.

@ctuan13

3 жыл бұрын

The thumbnail for this video was put together by my graphic designer who while very talented, is by no means a car expert. I had given her a variety of images to work with but I must have failed to communicate that the gasket with indexing tabs was only for the rimless two-stage power valve and the tab-free gasket was for the single stage with a recessed gasket rim. In actuality, the 2150 in my Continental, came with a two-stage power valve, likely for emissions purposes, but performance was greatly improved by swapping to a single stage. I was careful to use the correct gasket with each type and avoid over torquing, but without fail each gasket would if not immediately, start leaking soon after install. The viton o-ring is a permanent fix that I and many of my friends and acquaintances have had success with. I make no claim that my idea is the best solution, simply by far the best that I've found thus far. If you know of a more effective solution that I haven't tested already, please let me know! Thanks for watching and commenting!

Are you qualified ? 😜