How to Maximize Your Reach with a Pro Climber
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How do you extend your climbing reach as a short climber? The Small vs Tall debate is hotly contested amongst climbers, but how much does height and reach actually make a difference in climbing?
In this video, I teamed up with pro Pro Climber Alex Waterhouse to look at 4 climbing tips and techniques that are crucial to maximise your climbing reach. We headed for a session at @theclimbinghangaruk in Sheffield to cover some foundational climbing techniques, designed to help you maximise your climbing reach on the wall, no matter your height and whatever your stance on the tall vs small debate!
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00:00 Introduction
00:11 Introducing Pro Climber Alex Waterhouse
00:35 Tall Vs Small as a climber
02:15 Climbing Tip 1: Twist your hips to get closer to the wall
06:01 Climbing Top Tip: Placing your feet for drop knees and rock overs
07:30 Practical Example of extending reach with a drop knee
09:14 Climbing Tip 1: using high feet to maximise reach
12:20 Practical Example: High Feet to help you reach the next hold
13:51 Dynamic Climbing: Using momentum to generate height
17:52 Practical Example: Generating with the hips for dynamic moves
20:28 Applying the techniques to a bouldering project
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I hope you enjoy this session on maximising your reach! 😅
@driesvanoosten4417
Жыл бұрын
I'm 1m93 tall and have a 1m95 span, so I feel it may be unfair if I watch this video 🤣
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
@@driesvanoosten4417 a little extra never hurt🤓
@Kaptn_Knackebrot
Жыл бұрын
@@driesvanoosten4417 1.93 with 200 span here, it is always morally correct to abuse our reach since we are heavy 👍
The amount of effort that goes into picking a topic, picking out the problems that really highlight the topic and then attempting and filming all of it! This feels like a paid lesson rather than a free KZread video. Also, love the chill vibes of your videos. So calming!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Thank you! It’s really so nice that you picked up on the effort that goes into trying to upload an episode weekly that adds value to other people’s climbing journey! I’m so glad you like them 🤩
DIdn't realize Alex Waterhouse had a twin with the same name who is not wearing funky shorts
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
I WAS ALSO SHOOK
Hannah you have made some of theee very best educational content for climbers through your collaborations!! Thank you for your effort and focus on educating! MOOOOAR!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Thank you very much! I really appreciate that :) Definitely more coming
As a 5ft exactly climber, it felt pretty brutal to hear you describe yourselves as short at 5'5 haha. I will be trying these tips!
@ST-vt4nu
Жыл бұрын
I know right! I'm 5'2 and I feel like anyone that is 5'5 and above is not allowed to complain about being too short. 😂Routes are often simply not set with 5'3 and under in mind, so sometimes you do literally come short. (atleast in The Netherlands thats the case, but everyone else here is a giant). I spoke to one of the route setters (who is a giant btw) and he said that the climbs are kinda set for people that are 5'5 and up 😅
@trufflepig1491
4 ай бұрын
right! I'm 4"11 - I wish I was 5"5 my GOD
5ft/153cm climber here so very helpful video! I've been climbing for about 1-2 years and found I reached a plateau around V5-V6 that I'm slowly overcoming. Climbing in a gym with route setters that are all 6'3" can be frustrating so I'll be sure to implement some of these tips in my next session
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
I hope you find them useful! :) V5-V6 in a couple of years is great progress! :)
The best instructional climbing video i've ever seen. Clear concise and complete. Well done Alex.
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Agreed. Alex makes a great coach :)
10:20 you kind of forget he’s a pro until he’s just in the middle of a sentence, flies through the air for a second and lands on a hold most climbers would fall off even statically, and then carries on with the sentence like he’s not spiderman
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Casual
@santi_super_stunts2573
Жыл бұрын
Friendly reminder , Spider-Man is a shit climber , he’s only good cause he has the supernatural ability to stick to anything with any part of his body. And he’s only good at parkour movements because has literal super strength and super agility
@pirukiddingme1908
Жыл бұрын
@@santi_super_stunts2573 kinda seems like that would make a guy pretty good at climbing ngl
Awesome tips that aren't just for shorter climbers. Learning all these techniques to make climbing easier like Alwx was saying about saving 5% here and there. So many great points. Thanks Alex and Hannah for taking the time to share the knowledge and wisdom.
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Thanks so much Chris, glad you found the video informative. Absolutely, these tips would be useful for all heights. A little extra reach is always helpful. :)
@chrisembryclimbing
Жыл бұрын
@@hannahmorrisbouldering definitely agree on the reach. Working on a project after work that the hips suggestion will come in handy, and will help with stability too.
It’s really helpful for me! I never knew why I kept falling down when I had tried to keep my body close to the wall and jumped. Now I realize! Thanks for your video!
@isaT
Жыл бұрын
Same!!🤩 I'm going to try this on one tricky project that just keeps throwing me off!
I'm also 5' 7" (also on a good day!) - I can remember, back in 2017, thinking (in a german climbing hall) that a particular route was "Zwergentot" ("dead for dwarves" ... like me ;)!). Shortly thereafter I witnessed a (presumably approximately) 10 year old just zip up that same route. That was the beginning of me not making ANY excuses for not managing a route; a mid-point was a recent comment from a local trainer who 'passed on' a hint from an olympic boulderer: if you have to resort to dynamic (as in full dyno) moves, you just haven't developed your strength (core or otherwise) enough. His tips regarding static climbing opened my eyes, much the same as these videos from Hannah and supporting 'crew' are doing. Keep up the excellent work!
Thanks for yet another great educational climbing vid. Paid special attention in today's session to apply these techniques.
That breakdown Alex gave in the beginning was so on point, very insightful and astute. He's a sharp lad :)
Being new to bouldering and mature age I am drawn to these videos as they explain fundamental techniques so well. A great resource created. Thanks Hannah.
Great video, as a new climber this is very helpful. Thanks for sharing!
thanks a lot dear Hannah, great input from both of you!
That pink 😱 It's interesting to see a TCH one as easier for comparison, I'm on greens and just completed my first three oranges so watching you both in awe 😅
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Congrats on your first three oranges, that’s mega! I find the setting at TCH is great for when you’re just starting out, especially!
Thank you, Alex and Hannah, very much for your really well demonstrated tips. Trying to use them right in my next session. Ready for part 2 of you are ;)
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
You’re welcome ! Hope you find them useful in your next session. I’ve been finding high feet at every opportunity haha 🥳
Wow this is helpful. I haven’t seen this explanation re: pulling your hips out first. I’m going to try this!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Hope you find it useful! Definitely made such a difference on the blue boulder :)
Always great and very educational. So we'll explained and demonstrated. Thanks Hannah & Alex
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Thank you! Hope the tips come in handy. 😊
Thank you SO much. I’ve watched tons of videos showing drop knees, but this is the first video I’ve seen that explains when and why to use the drop knee!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
9 ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
Alex is such a good teacher! Loved the videos with him.
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Glad to hear it 🤩
I have definitely used a lot of the dynamic tips and body placement tutorials you've done to significantly improve my climbing, and it's so nice to also see this technique that I've kind of pulled out of your other videos being discussed here. It felt like a hack to compensate for some missing strength and now feels so valid as technique :)
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
That’s great to hear that the tips in previous videos have helped your climbing! 💪
Today I climbed, I always tried to climb properly, and to put often as I could the "inside flag". I was on a boulder and I did the inside flag, I was like "Oh my gog it's so cool, revolutionary, efficient and fu*king beautiful !" . Thanks to you (and coach Bee) to learned me that. Love from France ♥ This video was really a reminder to me too !
Really enjoyed this video, I'm 5ft1 and still very much a beginner but I still related to so many of the small climber struggles you guys mentioned. Can't wait to try some of these techniques next time I'm on the wall!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Hope they come in handy! Thanks so much for watching 😊🥰
Hannah, this content is GOLD. As an adult climber that’s 4’11”, I greatly appreciate these tips! I’d be interested in learning some tips on what to do when you have wide moves and your ape index isn’t quite long to reach holds (particularly compression moves that require tension, and therefore require you to hold both holds at once). Not sure if there’s really anything you can do if you can’t reach both the holds at the same time for moves like that, but I’m sure someone would have some advice. Thanks for sharing!
Hanna, thanks a lot for this video!!! This is such a helpful and educative video. I’m 5 feet 4 myself, and dragging my 9yo son (who hopefully will be taller than me in a couple of years) to the Boulder with me there times a week, all these tips and techniques are wonderful and will be put to use in our next bouldering session. I think we should pay attention to what kiddos do naturally when climbing, my son “discovered” dynos on his own (kind of frustrated because most routes had a step that was too large for him) once I noticed what he was doing, I’ve been sharing videos with him and encouraging him to use momentum to his advantage ❤️
Love your videos! Thank you for all of the hard work put into the fantastic content!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Thanks very much Michael - really good to hear you like the videos and I appreciate the comment :)
that's great educational content ! thank you so much for this video! i'll try to include all these amazing thechniques in my next climb for sure
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Glad you found it useful and hope it helps next session 🤩
Thank you both for this helpful video! Id love to see more of these! :)
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it 😊
As a taller climber, I love the idea of these techniques even though I can reach a lot of the holds! Looking forward to applying these in my next session and seeing what kind of difference they make!
This was SUUUPER helpful! I'm a relatively new climber whose on the shorter side and this really gave me some new found motivation. Keep up the great work!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Happy to help with the motivation! 💪
That was a really interesting watch thanks, lots of things that make sense when you break it down
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Really glad that you enjoyed it! Hopefully the tips are useful - definitely had a few ‘aha’ 💡moments ! ☺️
So helpful. Thank you for this content. Even as a tall climber, this will help me look at things differently.
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Glad you found it handy! Hopefully the tips help you out on some projects 🥳
Really awesome video! Very helpful and will be taking these ideas into my next session!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Glad you liked the tips and found them helpful. Hope you enjoy applying them on the wall 💪
Super instructive, Alex did a great job demonstrating these climbing hacks on the wall. I think they are no less useful for me as a tall guy (relative to the vastness of the universe, I am tiny, too!).
Awesome video. Averaged height climber here, but still learned a ton on hip and foot placement.
Cannot wait to go try the "hip thrusting" technique - absolutely solves a problem of mine!
Hannah this video is amazing and so helpful! I'm five foot nothing so reach has definitely felt like a big challenge for me, but I've got stuff to try in my next session to work on it now! So thank you!!! 🥰
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Hole you really enjoy applying the tips to your next video! 🤩
As always, this was a great, informative video! I've seen a bunch of "who is better, tall or short climbers" videos and I've always wanted to see one where the routes were custom set, with holds spaced to be the same relative distance for each climber. Videos like this make me think it'd be suuuuuper interesting to see how people approach the same climb when they're used to climbing in a certain style to account for their height.
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
That’s SUCH a cool idea. I wonder if it would be possible to set up that concept in an indoor gym with a setter! 🤔
thank you Hannah - this was awesome! you should probably reupload the video with the title "how to climb for shorties". will show this to my son, who has struggled with his height the last season!
This is so helpful, thank you !
Alex is excellent at explaining the techniques! 👌🙏
I like doing exaggerated hip movement drills during warm-ups, gets both the brain and the joints going. Really liked seeing the tips applied to a project level boulder.
I’m 6 ft 2 in and I love watching videos about short climber techniques. Lots of times I can use them to completely skip holds and make climb’s easier
Great video, these are such useful tips! Regards from a short climber
Super cool video so far. Love your content!!!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Anna! Appreciate it. Have been enjoying your vids too :)
@annaclimbswalls
Жыл бұрын
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Oh my gosh. Thank you so much!!
What a great technique video, thanks to you all.
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
You’re very welcome!
Alex is such a great instructor, giving very clear demonstration and explaining it so clearly. many other videos that ive watched, they try to tell you to "do this" and "don't do that", but the problem is 1) i can handly spot the difference as a beginner, 2) they dont really go down to the nuance on HOW to actually do it. Really appreciate Alex for the great explanation and of-cos to Hannah and team for making this video available to us here. Thank you.
@hannahmorrisbouldering
5 ай бұрын
Happy to help!
Just ordered one of your tees! Can't wait to climb in it :DD
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Yay that’s exciting! Hope you love it 😍
When Alex topped that random pink dyno problem 10 minutes in, just how effortless and casual everything was, it's just crazy how good good climbers are :D
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Haha right?! So strong and skilled it’s unreal.
@mihkelhint
Жыл бұрын
@@hannahmorrisbouldering It's just mindblowing stuff, yes :D I have some local crushers who've blown my mind for years, but seeing this stuff on youtube the level at which actual world class athletes are at climbing, it's just beyond words lol. Btw I think it actually works on all the levels though. So while you might think of yourself as this veru average amateur climber, you are blowing peoples minds also :D
I really appreciate Alex's attitude at the beginning. height is often talked about in climbing and people always joke that "he climbs better only because he's tall", but that's such a negative attitude to find excuses for oneself. You can be a good short climber and use height to your advantage too!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Absolutely. I’ve definitely been guilty of leaning on the “if I were a little taller, I could get it” but I haven’t been properly appreciating all of the technical aspects of my climbing style that I’ve been able to develop being a little shorter.
Your videos are so relatable. Thank you. 😊
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Really glad to hear it. Thanks for your comment 😎
Thank you very much for your videos, they help me improve my technique and motivate me in training 🤪💪😘😘
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Yay, that’s great to hear ! Glad you done them useful! 😅
Although I seldom have problems with reach (197 cm and an armspan around 203 cm) I too found these tips helpful, because it's just more efficient. And good to see Alex in one of your videos again, he explains stuff in such a digestable manner.
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Thanks David. Glad you liked Alex’s tips and hopefully you find them useful in your next session. 🤩
@Dave1507
Жыл бұрын
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I think having a next session would be helpful all by itself, I have been down with a cold and then I was out of town on family visit, so my last sesh was about 4 weeks ago, the longest time without bouldering since I started. But we'll see tomorrow what's left of my skin and muscles ;)
That must have been a great training session. As a taller climberwith stiff hips I am going to try those drop knees, see if I can get them to work for me.
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
It was definitely a tough session, but I learned so much from Alex! I find I use drop knees so often because I’ve drilled them in so much, hope you enjoy training them ☺️☺️
What a great video! Super useful - thank you!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Glad you found it handy :)
Great tips!
I'm 4'11 and working into the 5.11s where the moves are big and reachy. Thanks for these videos! They are helpful!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
7 ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful 🤗🤗
Love this episode! So applicable to me 😂
i've got another one! ^^ Smearing the wall! there's lots of ways you can put weight into your feet without the need for footholds and, once you keep it in mind, it will defenitely make you able to see a wider range possibilities to solve every move. That's a drill everyone should learn of course, but as shorter climbers have it more difficult at the reaching department, they'll get the most out of it
Great video! Thanks for making this. I need someone to give some tips on fitting tall person limbs into a smaller box now...
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Glad to hear you found it useful :)
I'm a beginner climber and these are such good tips for me to try and use! I'm 5'4 with shorter than average arms so this is so useful
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Great to hear! 🤩🤩
I don’t comment often (at all?) but had to for this one. I just love Alex’s approach. So focused on helping Hannah and the demonstrations were absolutely spot on for illuminating the principles. I feel like I learned so much!!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Thanks so much for commenting! Great to hear you found the video informative and hopefully you find the tips useful for your next session. 😀
@jimmahgee
Жыл бұрын
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I’m off to the gym right now! ;) Will be climbing with one of the GB youth squad on Wednesday too, I’m sure she can can give me some reinforcement on these techniques!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
@@jimmahgee ooh exciting! Have a great session ☺️
@jimmahgee
Жыл бұрын
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Thanks Hannah! Have a great evening 🙌🏻
Such a good video!!! Also will your merch ever ship to canada?
Love this! Thanks! Kind regards, Daniel
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it 😊
My kind of video. Thank you!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Glad to hear it 😊
Every time I see the title on the thumbnail I read "Preach, father" and I think that fits just as well. Haha. Great tips and excellent content as usual!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Haha that’s great! You’re right, basically the same 😅😅
Really loved this video, didn't realize I'm the same height as Hannah! I liked to think I was decent with high feet, but this definitely showed me otherwise.
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it! High feet and flexible hips seems to be the dream combo for shorter climbers. Definitely need to keep on top of my flexibility gains more!!😎
As a taller climber, I can see a lot of places where these same techniques can apply. Thanks!
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Definitely! More reach and options for high feet / being mindful of using momentum is always handy. 😅
As a 5'2" shorty, thanks so much!
Great video Hannah! seen you in Depot on Sunday and this has sure payed of for you haha that comp wall was a breeze 😂
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
It's tricky at the moment that comp wall huh!? Hope you had a good session on Sunday :)
@callumlakin
Жыл бұрын
@@hannahmorrisbouldering yes it’s tough! I had a great session thank you didn’t want to disturb your session next time I’ll say hi 👋
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
@@callumlakin Definitely do! Would have been cool to chat to you. :)
Practiced some of this on a ladder-y auto belay. Already feeling like I’ve learned something
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Great to hear!
Love the vid Hannah, I just started climbing and also climb at the climbing hangar, Do you know what grade is associated with which colour?
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
I was informed that the reds start at roughly V4-V5 and each colour is a jump to or from the next grade bracket, if that makes sense. :)
@zExiteR
Жыл бұрын
@@hannahmorrisbouldering it does thank you!!!
headphone user here please combine the mics so i don't hear you in my left ear only and him in my right ear only. Love your content
Hannah always better! Amazing progression!! Ciaooo!!!
Fantastic video ❤
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Thank you! 😅
LOVE LOVE LOVE HMB!!!!!! I've said this before and I'll say it again. HMB is the best climbing channel on YT. PERIODT.
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
Great video, but my knees started to hurt from watching how many times he jumped off the boulder.
Height is sometimes a blessing and sometimes a curse. There are so many crumpled up starts at my gym I have no I idea how to fit into, but then I can skip some moves.
@hannahmorrisbouldering
10 ай бұрын
Nathan has the same problem - sit starts are an entirely different game for us :)
Tech service comment: @9:00 the audio panning is flipped in comparison to what you see: alex' voice is right but he appears left in the video :) or is it just me? 🙂
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Ahhhhhh man, probably not just you and an editing miss from me. Hope it's not too distracting!
@asconblake
Жыл бұрын
@@hannahmorrisbouldering nah, it was super enjoyable! I notice those things as an audio engi ;)
@alexgalays910
Жыл бұрын
The whole video sounded very/way too much mono channel to me; I felt like one of my ears was dead :( Cool content though!
Those tips are also useful if you're tall, usually skip holds but need to reach a bit extra to get at the good bit of the next hold 👁👄👁
I love it
closing in on 50k :O
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Exciting! :D
I’m 5’4 and complained a lot but now I have a 5’0 friend that crushes everything.
we hitting 50k by the end of the week for sure
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
That would be amazing! 🥰
I'm tall, so if I utilize these techniques, I'm really going to infuriate my short friends lol
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
All the more reason 👀
Does anyone know what pants Alex is wearing?!
Well it's under 30 minutes 😆
Nicest people on bouldering youtube.
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
:D :D
Please setup your mic in a way where we dont hear every seperation of your lips with this munching sound its driving me insane
Thank you for putting out consistently good content. The fact that you use ford. makes me even happier. Keep up the good work Hannah 🥰
@hannahmorrisbouldering
Жыл бұрын
Thanks, will do!