Outstanding. Great detail and great to know that this will be doable on my Rally once it finally arrives. Thanks for doing the extra work to put the video together.

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

You're welcome. It's not like there's a lot else to do in the UK during lockdown (which finishes on the 29th) Good luck with your bike when it arrives.

Solid work man! Thanks for all the tight camera angles. I want to this when mine arrives to the island of dreams! Peace 🤙🏼

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks. It means I can fit some proper handguards, and also fills a couple of lockdown evenings. Things start opening up from the 29th, so not long to go before more riding and less tinkering. Probably! 🤣🤣🤣. May yours arrive soon.

Great videos…..much better than other CRF 300 videos. I appreciate your articulation on each step of the installation.

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

You are very welcome. I had to do it for me anyway!

I really like your tutorials, Andre. Clear and concise, no waste of time. Well done. Günter from Nürnberg

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Günter. I think I’ll be riding more than tweaking now, but there’s still a few to do.

@enduromotorradtouren

3 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles A biker's work is never done, Andre. We had snowflakes again today after 20 degrees on Sunday. April ;-) Hope we can enjoy some riding in the next few days.

Thank you for all the CRL300 Rally videos. Nice editing. I am one hobo from Finland who likes your weight measurements - just for fun.

@PeakMotorcycles

Жыл бұрын

You are very welcome. I’m just sort of doing my thing. I suppose that even those that complain about weighing things still watched the videos. Finland is a nice part of the world!

Fantastic video. Thank you. Got mine due in July here in Melbourne.

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

May it be on time. July will be here soon!

Excellent job and very helpful.

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks

Good job, We need some more riding videos man

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Me too 🤣🤣🤣. Lockdown ends on 29th March. I could pretend it’s an essential journey, but that’s not really in the spirit of it. Actually, I have an eye check up tomorrow, so perhaps I’ll take the bike and check out how everything is working.

Fantastic videos!

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Just sharing my experiences here - use the nub gringing technique with caution. This approach works ok on the clutch side (if you wrap tape around the bars), but it can be problematic on the throttle side. On the throttle side, the controls have very little surface area to grab the bars, so without that nub, the chance of control rotation is high. If you are really set on grinding down the nubs (which I was), I would leave a little something there, wrap some tape around the bars, and then what remains of the nub will be able to bite into the tape. If you get on google, you will find a number of people have experienced issues stopping the throttle-side controls from rotating after grinding down the nubs. I am unfortunately in this group and will have to order new controls and drill my bars to stop the controls rotating. Removing the nubs works well on other bikes, but for the 300l, it can be a problem.

@PeakMotorcycles

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Nick, I did consider drilling, but I know Renthal say don’t drill the bars. I’m two years into mine and so far neither side has moved at all, even with the occasional drop. I found that keeping the tape wrap narrow, and just enough (3 wraps) was enough for a secure fit.

@vossenzwe7637

11 ай бұрын

Yeah, I followed this guide and removed the nub, basically impossible to get it to not rotate. I strongly recommend against using it. This is a bad idea. Drill instead.

@PeakMotorcycles

10 ай бұрын

So I've had mine like this, with the nub removed, and three wraps of tape for two years and 2000+ miles of a mix of trail and road in all weathers and it hasn't moved. Several people got in touch asking about how to stop it moving and it seems that a common problem is that people put too much (or too wide tape) on the bars. The only place you should wrap tape on the bars is where the narrow clamp is located inside the switch housing. If you go wider than that, it snags on the plastic and stops it from clamping. I've seen several pics were people even had tape showing outside the housing and if you do that, it'll never clamp properly as the plastic housing sits flush to the bar, and having tape there means that it holds it off and the actual clamp inside the housing will never tighten properly. Unfortunately this is one of those things that had I done the drilling, the other half of the internet would have been angry after drilling holes in the wrong places, or those that know that Renthal specifically recommend against drilling the bars. I don't know how much drilling weakens them, probably not much, but for me, grinding the nub gave me the flexibility for adjustment and has been a firm clamp for over two years. I'm not sure what you are doing differently, but if you'd share a pic to admin@peakmotorcycles.com of where you have the tape under the housing, I can compare it with mine. I can only base my comments off my own experience, and while I can see it's caused problems for you, I think you are in the minority and most people found this worked for them. (Drilling also works, and I'm not saying that's wrong, just for me, I preferred the option of adjustment and not going against the manufacturers recommendation.)

Excellent video mate I intend doing something similar my self when my bike arrives and was wondering about the cable length thanks again Cheers Phil 👍

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

May it arrive soon! I think 50mm is the limit, 30-40mm would be ideal, but I was struggling to find any other conversion risers that were in that range. The Apico and ProTaper ones (and copies) look like they are the next level down but are all around 20mm. Cheers

Great video!

@PeakMotorcycles

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Chris, it was a while ago but glad it’s still proving useful. Ride safe!

Great vids. Thank you

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching!

Fantastic How to Video

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you sir. I guess I can bring it up to you in Donny for the servicing after I’ve had the first free one from the dealer 😉

@D2TEP

3 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles Absolutely

Top job bud 👌🏻

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Just filling the evenings, but thank you!

Well done!

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Nice. Thanks.

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

You’re welcome!

Great video very informative.. what is the torque setting for the bar bolts once reattached. Many thanks in advance

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

I don’t have a service manual for a 300, only a 250 Rally, so any numbers are from that. If I’m doubt, check with someone who knows. That said, for the 250, the bar clamp bolts aren’t listed with a specific torque, so the standard settings apply. I can’t remember if they are M8 or M10 bolts, but if an M8 it’s 27Nm and if an M10 39Nm. That said, as they’ve given no specific value, and the wisdom of the internet suggests to do them tight so there’s no gap, but not too tight. I’d start off with less and see how you go. Or ask someone who knows what they are doing!

Just wrap decorators tape round the bar, clamp the switches in place so the tape is indented. Centre punch then drill 4.9 or 5.0 mm hole

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Yup. That'd work. I guess that I'm not as sure of the position yet. Perhaps when I've ridden it a bit and got it just right, I'll put a pin/bolt/rivet back in and do as your suggest.

@marcusgarofalo4490

3 жыл бұрын

Great idea, I grinded off the notch and it still didn't work correctly....

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

@@marcusgarofalo4490 which bit? I know a few had some problems getting it to clamp, but this was fixed if the tape was only put where the clamp goes, not the width of the control plastic box. The plastic should be pretty much flush with the bar, so if the tape is too wide on the bar, and is holding the plastic off, then it’s difficult to clamp. If that’s not the problem you have, please confirm what is, and I’ll help if I can. Good luck.

@nickg2431

2 жыл бұрын

super idea

@jackjones8552

Жыл бұрын

thanks for the tape tip, used a couple of winds of electrical tape and it left a mark as clear as day!

Nice video. I do get the need for handle bar risers for taller riders such as myself, but what is the benefit of the Fatbar beside the aesthetics? It sure looks good but I feel the stock handlebar is more practical with the second rod for mounting stuff.

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

With the stock bar, you can’t fit proper handguards as the cross brace gets in the way and there is no space to fit the clamp. Also the stock bar has threaded inserts so you can’t put a fitting in the bar end. The cross brace on the stock bar is quite thin, so I doubt you’d mount anything there, and if you do, mind how you go, as it might hit you in the chest one day. There’s a reason that they are normally covered with a pad. Other than that, the stock bar is quite heavy and high up on the bike, and it’s not as stiff or as strong as a tapered/fat bar. Aesthetically there’s not much in it, to me at least, and I think a fat bar is more practical than the stock as you can still mount on it, probably with more available clamps, though each to their own.

Hello, nice Video! How much Ft. Lbs. (Nm) at 7:47 for the whole bar?

Really appreciate these videos, the bars are defo too slim originally

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

You’re very welcome. Trying to keep busy...

@connor25

3 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles just waiting on a test ride

@RA9gaymore

3 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles I really appreciate your vids. I am now £6K lighter & waiting for mid April delivery .

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

@@RA9gaymore it’ll be worth it. I hope 🤣. I had an outing to Buxton today on mine and it still makes me smile.

Since it was not visible I have to ask: The right grip just slides straight onto the new handle bar? I find your videos a.w.e.s.o.m.e. ! They give such a great deal of confidence when wanting to mod something on the rally!

@PeakMotorcycles

Жыл бұрын

Yup, the right grip is free to rotate for the throttle so it just slides on, and you attach the throttle cables and then bolt on the switch housing.

@noidea2655

Жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles perfect -thanks! Had hopes for that as I have to switch my handlebar AND want to install Oxford heated grips

Loving your quality Andre - appreciate the effort. Qucik question if I may, the new bar is a 28mm. However, i'm guessing thats only in the middle due to the fact that your grips still fit ? Sounds obvious now i've wrote it lol. Thanks, Ringo

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Can you tell I’m trying to fill lockdown evenings? I think I finished Netflix 🤣. And yes you have answered your own question. The fat bars (or tapered bars as some call them) are 7/8” (22mm) at the end, same as the stock, and are 1 1/8” (28.2mm) at the clamp. It means you can get the strength and stiffness without that cross brace, which makes fitting handguards a lot easier.

Very detailed video, awesome work! How tall are you that you needed 50mm risers?

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Need is a strong word, 30 or 40mm would have been ideal, and the choices I could find were 20mm or 50mm. So I went for the 50mm and the Renthal Bar (604) profile is about 1cm lower than stock, to balance it out. I’m 183cm. I guess the other option would be to use 20mm risers and have more rise on the bar.

Compressed air for grips, on or off, only way to go!👍

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Especially if you have compressed air, and a suitable way to get it into the grip. If not, another way is needed, even if it’s not the only way 😉

@ozziejim8472

3 жыл бұрын

Lol! Yeah fair enough mate. Good channel too!

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

@@ozziejim8472 ta. Compressed air is on the list!

Hi Andre first of all thanks for nice and clear video. Btw what riser brand you installed there? Looks solid

@PeakMotorcycles

Жыл бұрын

Hi, they are SW-Motech Vario 50mm conversion risers. Unfortunately they are almost impossible to find these days. I also found after that that 50mm was a bit tight for the stock cables, so switched to some 20mm Apico conversion risers. Longer clutch and throttle cables are now available Venhill so I guess I could try them again, but I sort of got used to the 20mm Apico ones.

Great video, can I as if you have a part number for the SW Motech bar converters / risers please.

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Here you go: www.sw-motech-shop.co.uk/Vario-bar-back-with-conversion-22-to-28-mm-Up-back-variable-Black Part number is: LEH.00.039.172/B

Thanks for all the info the bars and risers look great . Just wondered what size adapter’s you use when you use your sky lift ? Cheers Matt .

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Matt, they are for a 2020 Ducati Panigale 1199 🤣. Yes. Really. You might find that you have to remove the left footrest if you have larger aftermarket ones. I think mine was ok with the stock ones, but I have to remove the left one now that it’s a Zeta.

@matthewseare7136

2 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles Thanks for the speedy reply. I will call Abba tomorrow and order some .My Rally is due next month, I’ve enjoyed your videos .Sorry if you’ve done a video and I’ve not seen it but what hand guards did you fit to your fat bars ? keep up the good work Regards Matt .

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

@@matthewseare7136 they are Zetas, but there’s lots of choices now. Just make sure you get fatbar ones if you get a 28mm handlebar.

Very helpful video .I am in Greece with my new crf 300l any chance of the sw motec part number for the risers ? Thanks Nick

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, the part number is LEH.00.039.172 and it's available if you click the link in the description (They are out of stock at that seller, but they are a bit like hens teeth to find)

@nickg2431

2 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles thanks for that the page didnt display properly when i looked.made some enquires in greece i can find 25mm but thats not enough -looks like an engineer will have to maybe make me some-"patent" they call it over here!

Can you pls make a video about how to put back in line the handlebar after a fall? Thanks!

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

Tricky one that… if I fall and twist my forks, when I have my cameras, then yes. If I twist my forks without them, I’d probably fix it there and then to get home. I think you’d first try and twist it back with someone holding the front wheel. If that didn’t my work, to loosen the triple clamp pinch bolts a turn and try again (and then retighten) Will see how it goes!

@giulio1555

2 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles thanks a lot!!

Don’t use lubricant on grips as it won’t re-stick...use brake cleaner or light solvent as it evaporates but leaves glue behind. Reinstall the grip by spraying more brake cleaner on the bar as you slide it on 👍

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Mine did. I cleaned out the lubricant with soapy water and there have been no problems since refitting. I don’t have a similar thin tube for getting the brake cleaner under the grip either. This cat can be skinned many ways. 😉 I normally use spray paint rather than brake cleaner for fitting, though in this case didn’t bother as it’s a tight fit anyway and they won’t be on for long as I’ll be fitting some heated grips. Thanks for the suggestions, they sound like they would also work well.

Having dropped my Rally more than once on the trail I have noticed that the width of the bars are a significant in protecting the fairings (in particular the bottom) as the hit the ground first. A narrower bar could compromise that protection and the 604 appears to be slightly (10mm) narrower than standard - hopefully the handguards will overcome than deficit.

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

Yup, 5mm a side, but the hand guards stick out a bit, so I think it’s about the same as stock with the weights.

@jimcarr8425

2 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles I hope to do something over the Crimbo break now that President Macron has cancelled my holiday. The problem is too much choice!

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

@@jimcarr8425 aye, that’s not great with the changes. I’m booked to go to France in March and had a note from the holiday company today saying don’t panic 🤣 I’m sure you’ll find something to fill your time. I’ve an arrow can, a healtech thunderbox, heated grips, Denali lights, and hopefully some outback Motortek upper crash bars and rear rack to go on the CRF and Ohlins fork springs, Evotech bash and brake guard, and some tkc80’s and new sprocket and spoke wheels to go on the Ducati scrambler. Not sure I’ll get all that done over Christmas but will try. Depends on how cold it gets in the garage.

How wide were the old handlebars trying to figure out if I can fit one of these in my dining room to my rear slider

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, end to end, the stock bars are 805mm. Probably need to add a few mm at each end for grips/guards/bar end weights. You can get it through a narrower opening with the bars turned as long as the front wheel can move forward when turned sideways.

Could you maybe look at a vid on thicker fork oil for squishy suspensions

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Deon, will see what might work. I think that for me at least, I’m too heavy for the stock springs. The damping is not great too, so though heavier oil would help a bit, particularly to reduce the bounce, the springs are what they are. I think I’ll go down the cartridge route, just waiting for some to be available for the Rally.

@doneB830

3 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles thanks mate keep up the good work

Hi, I like your tutorials, really good work. I see in the video you used SW-motech risers (50mm). But on ABR I saw your bike with Apico (20mm). Any reason for the change to lower? I need to make decision (already sent back Zeta with offset, and sending-motech without conv to fatbar as in meantime I had bent the handlebars slightly). Second question I have: what did you use to stick the grips to handlebar? Glue? Third question: Any plans for episode about removing lower plastics (replacing skid plate as well)? My cracked and thinking about removing them or cutting. Thanks

@PeakMotorcycles

Жыл бұрын

Hi Artur, 1. I found the 50mm risers a bit high and the clutch and throttle cables were a little tight. At the time no aftermarket ones were available, so I went lower. Longer cables are now available from Venhill, so perhaps I’ll try again… 2. They just fitted back on. No glue needed. The Renthal bars had a textured/knurled bit where the grips fit and that was enough. If you see my heated grips video, for that it was a mission to just push fit them and they haven’t moved. 3. Not yet. Apologies. I have some prototype Kevlar lower prototype guards from Kodama, so that’ll be the closest I get in the short term.

@arturzegar1527

Жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles how did you manage to take off the end weights ? They are spinning with the screw. On the video it's efortless. Have you used only a screwdriver or any special technic?

@PeakMotorcycles

Жыл бұрын

@@arturzegar1527 I’m afraid I just unscrewed mine and they just came out. Someone else had the problem with them spinning too though, so you are not alone (not that it helps…) Does it come away at all? Even if just a crack could you get something in there to lever it out while unscrewing?

@arturzegar1527

Жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles gave up yd. But today very morning Screwfix and an impact driver saved the day 😉 it needed the torque.

The link for the risers doesn’t work, may just cause I’m in the states, not sure. I’m looking abs can’t find a 50mm riser that converts 7/8 (22mm) to 1 1/8 (28mm). Can you provide the model number?

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Hi, The company in the UK has since gone out of business, but I found some in the US on eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/191204538842?epid=1678201049&hash=item2c84adb9da:g:42YAAOSwUwVgI1BD&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338806233&toolid=11800&mkevt=1 SWMotech Part Number is LEH.00.039.172 (I think there's a /B for black or /S for silver at the end of that.) Good luck!

Did the switchgear/ controls ever move with out the dowel.???

@PeakMotorcycles

2 ай бұрын

Not yet (over 3000 miles, mostly trails, no long road runs)

If you don't mind me asking. What is the diameter of the original bar end itself? The black knob thingy that screw into the end of the handlebar.

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

Good question. I’m away at the moment but will measure when I get home. I think they are bar end weights, and I guess they are around 30mm diameter (bar is 22mm, so 4mm each side for the grip thickness would be 30mm)

Does any of the controls turn since you ground down those little knobs?

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

I had to put three wraps of tape round the bars to have them grip. So no. But I’m also pretty sure I wouldn’t have drilled in the right place, and after I thought I had them in the right place, I went for a ride for an hour and then moved them both. Ideally I’d pick the perfect point from the off and drill. Others have suggested leaving the tabs on, and putting on foam tape to be marked. I guess that will work, just as long as it’s marked right.

The link for the handle bar risers doesn't work but I'm in India. Are they from the UK ? I can't find them on their website. I'm starting to build up a 300l and your videos are invaluable. Thankyou.

@PeakMotorcycles

Жыл бұрын

Hi, They were, but now they are harder to find than hens teeth. I found some on eBay in the US but Europe and the UK seem to have no stock: ebay.us/2Ivc0g That same seller also has the 40-50mm risers: ebay.us/rgjvsv If that’s any help?

@intipunku8281

Жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles Thanks for your help

8:00 so basically here you used the stock handlebar grip and inserted the Vario bar back from sw-motech inside ? As I can't tell exactly because you tighten the stock grips very well and then, fast forward, the vario bar back appear mounted :)) Great videos BTW!

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

It’s the stock top yoke that has the bottom half of the stock 22mm bar fittings. The SW-Motech kit comes with a lower 22mm bar stub that is held in place with the stock 22mm top bit. Everything from there up is 28.2mm and came with the SW Motech risers. Does that make any sense? Apologies that it’s sped up. It was already a bit long…

So just looking for an update. Any issues with the controls rotating on you?

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Nope. They were adjusted slightly upwards when I did the MotoJunkies day, but they were happy to assist with that by hitting them 🤣. They only moved a couple of degrees and haven’t moved since.

Just ordered my 300 Rally yesterday probably looking at May delivery.

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

May will be here before you know it! Or it’ll be like waiting for Christmas. Good luck and ride safe.

@djhowse

3 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles haha, it'll be joining an Africa Twin 1100 that's already in the garage so I have something to keep me occupied when we can start riding 'properly' again. How were the switchgear and throttle housing on the new bars without the lugs?

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

@@djhowse loose 🤣 it took about three wraps of electrical tape before they would clamp securely. Perhaps a better solution would be to grind off and replace with a sticky rubber pad, or leave a bit of the peg and use it with tape so it grips a little without scoring the bars.

@djhowse

3 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles yeah, thought so. I had a CRF250L a few years back and decided to drill the Pro Taper bars I put on to take the lugs. I got the position for the holes by wrapping some foam tape round the bars and then pressing the lugs into it to mark the position. It's a bit of a faff as you have to mount the bars then take them off again to drill etc but worked for me. As long as you got them cinched up in the end so they're safe!

@garethowen61

3 жыл бұрын

Having put a deposit down on a Rally I’m sure your videos will be of great help. Keep up the good work👌

Can you tell me the total rise in MM of the handlebars compared to stock without risers? I just put 30mm cheap risers on the stock bars and can't see having enough cable length to go any higher. I tried using the chart you posted a link to and didn't see the CRF 300 stock bars on it. Thank You

@PeakMotorcycles

Жыл бұрын

I've since gone to 20mm Apico risers, so it's not easy to measure I'm afraid. I used the 250L bars as the comparison from Renthal as I think they are the same (or close enough) the 300 stock bars for a comparison. Since this video was done, longer cables are now available. I was thinking of getting a clutch and throttle cable 50mm longer, even though I don't have as much rise. They are these if you can get them where you are: www.venhill.co.uk/partfinder/search/?type=1&manufacturer=40&engine=38&model=2587&year=467 They can make them longer to your requirements too. If you have an ABS bike, the brake line is a bit more complicated as it goes from the master cylinder to the ABS unit. I'm sure a longer braided line is possible, it's just a bit more work to fit one and then bleed the system.

@reg26

Жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles Thank you SO much!

Hello. I am reaching out to you for help. I changed my handlebars on my CRF300 Rally some month ago becouse the bar was a little bit to low and a lot to close to my body when standing up. The bar was changed by my dealer. When the job was done and I left the dealer I forget to take the old bars with me. After changing to Renthal RC with 20mm risers the bars is now a little bit to high (easily fixed) but also makes me really fatigue when riding on long trips. I am now looking for another bar and want the original bar for reference. Do you still have the old bar? And if you do, is it possible to send me the dimensions of the bar? I really appreciate the help 🙏

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, have you tried the Renthal Worksfit tool? That might be better (and more accurate) than my measurements: www.renthal.com/worksfit/#selector The CRF250L/Rally bar is, I think, the same as the 300L/Rally bar, so use that and you can then overlay various Renthal bars on top to see how they compare. Dimensions for the OE stock from the Renthal site are 814mm W, 119mm Rise, 56mm Back. I hope this makes sense.

@martinwiklund7106

2 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles Hello, thanks for answering 😊 Yes, I checked rental. The thing is when I check the zeta handlebar simulator it say 798, 96, 64, 191, 72. That's a big difference 😳 www.dirtfreak.co.jp/moto/products/zeta/handle/handle_sim/handle_sim_eng.php I wonder which one is correct. If you have the time to just measure the width of the bar I would highly appreciate it 👍

If you cut the tab it can be soldered back on if you are handy.😅

@PeakMotorcycles

9 ай бұрын

Yup, I'm sure it can, though I've left mine off and more than two years and several thousand miles later mine haven't moved.

What tape did you end up using to stop the bar assemblies from moving about ? Does it have adhesive or just to add thickness ?

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, I used regular adhesive electrical tape. You don’t need much, perhaps 3 turns, and it also needs to be narrow. Just the width of the bit that the internal clamp will press against. If you have it any wider, it might interfere with the button housing, which has to sit almost flush to the bar. If the tape is applied too wide you won’t be able to tighten it.

@jennifer-anneodendaal5279

2 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles thanks for that. I ended up using some door adhesive foam. Which I think was too thick and is inteferring with the feel of the indicators. I'll try the electrical tape thanks

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

@@jennifer-anneodendaal5279 yup, that might be it. You only need a small amount for it to grip. Maybe even 2 wraps. And no more than 1cm wide.

Can you write please full name of handlebar which you choose?

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, it’s a Renthal 604 Fatbar in black.

Is this pretty similar to installing on a 250 rally?

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

I guess so as the bars are the same, what I’m not sure of is the length of the brake and clutch cables and if they’ll extend enough.

@zickscittswinn

2 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles mmkay. I just received my new bars in the mail, so I’m gonna give it a shot!

what is the top speed with this rally?

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

Not sure, I'm still running mine in so not maxing out the revs. I'm guessing more than 80mph, less than 100mph? (Where it's legal to do so of course!)

I cant get the screws off the handlebars from either side..what did you use ...? did you get a differnt battery than the stock one and what is it?

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

I think it was either a crosshead screwdriver or a small hex key. I’m still running the stock battery. When it dies, I’ll get a lithium one, but until then, it seemed a bit of a waste to replace a perfectly good, though heavy, battery. It’ll need replacing at some point so I’ll go lightweight then.

@aichaghany9638

2 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles thank you for your very fast reply...i never planned on youtubing but thinking about throwing some of my content up about this bike bc be a shame not to share another riders input and experice as well as i just dropped $1500 on aftermarket parts from src moto and i think could really benifit people thinking to buy the rally or modifiy it bc there are definitley diferences in installation of some of these parts vs just on the 300l...i was thinking the same thing as you with the battery but inhave a 1986honda nighthawk was gonna take the heavy battery and put in there...figured you wouldve researeched the top lithium ion battery that would give us most cranks and fit the rallys system best bc i trust your sh**most over the other vids and input available on this bike so if you have a suggestion im all ears since i have the entire bike apart at the moment figure nows the time.....i keep spinning the crosshead and the weight or screw cap wont budge at all at the end,ive seen where others use pliers or grips on the grips to release tension or impact drivers with jis#3 but you looked like you just unscrewed both sides out easy no problems no power tools etc??

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

@@aichaghany9638 sorry to hear yours is just spinning that doesn’t sound great. Unfortunately mine just unscrewed, as you said, no power tools. KZread is an odd thing, though if it’ll help people and you have the time, go for it! The one thing I’d say is if you can, show your mistakes. If it saves one person making the same mistake it’ll be worth it. I’d like to think I’ve made most of them already 🤣, but there’s always more. Good luck with the rebuild!

@aichaghany9638

2 жыл бұрын

I just tried to get my sprocket cover off two bolts out and its just staying in place so watched you vid on sprocket cover change and realize my rally is a thai model sold to me in united states yours is uk model you talk about in that video...any suggestions on best lithium ion battery i adding trail lights and maybe heated accosories to src motos dash kit so need the battery strong but lighter than the monster in here!

Can you clear up why exactly some say that you can't put hand guards on the stock handlebars? Can the inserts at the end of the bar is not be removed? Some folks also say you can do it on the Rally but not on the L version.

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

On the stock handlebar the cross brace is fixed. Some of the handguards have the inner clamp where the cross brace is welded so you can’t get them in the right position. I’m sure the inserts can be removed, but it’s probably easier to drill and retap to the screw size for the handguards.

@billb.9159

3 жыл бұрын

The handguard situation for the CRF300L is explained at: soloracer.com/crf300lhndgrds.html

@Scoottoots

3 жыл бұрын

Not trying to plug my channel, but here's a video I did on installing Zeta handguards on the 300L using the Drill & Tap method. kzread.info/dash/bejne/e2Vmm65ug72xhtY.html . That way you use the M8 bolt supplied with the guards and everything is secure and looks proper. Those inserts cannot be removed from the bar on the 300L, and they are inset into the bar differently on each side (at least on mine), so drilling and tapping is much better than trying to use an M6 bolt or a shoulder bolt.

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

@@Scoottoots plug away Sir! Happy to support and promote. There’s plenty I haven’t done to my bike yet, so go for it.

@Scoottoots

3 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles Oh thanks. I haven't done much myself, but after riding for a couple weeks now I realize I must upgrade the shock. Maybe it's just mine but man is it soft and bouncy. It interferes with the handling. The shock on the 250L was much better as it had a lot of preload adjustment possible. This new one has almost no preload adjustment, so my race sag ends up at 140mm with max preload. Crazy. Finances though. It'll have to wait. Love your channel. Good to see lots of content on the 300L.

Did you find a skid plate for this bike? I’m In Canada Ans can’t find parts for this yet.

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

Yup, two actually. The one I am riding on at the moment is a Yamoto from Thailand which was ordered from Bikerzbits. The one I’m currently testing is a prototype carbon fibre plate from Kodama Composites in the UK. The production versions are still some weeks away, but the prototype looks pretty good. There’s videos of both on the channel.

@TheZakkmylde

2 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles ya I looked at bikerbitz but shipping and charges were unclear. Being in Canada shipping was was all high like 200$ and 20 days or more. Yet one option was 3 days and only 50 dollars. So didn’t make sense. Thank you

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

It’s the same to the UK. £40-£50 item has £20-£30 postage, but it’s still cheaper than buying here, and if it’s the case that there are no local one’s to buy, there’s not a lot of choice. Even with the shipping cost, they are cheaper to buy in Thailand than the UK. To the UK, the Bikerzbits one is £53 to buy + £20 DHL. There are more expensive shipping options, but why pay more? Canada looks slightly cheaper as only £18 shipping. So you’re doing better than we are. Do you think you can find one locally for less?

@TheZakkmylde

2 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles no I cannot find locally but on the site it said shipping times are not guaranteed so I wasn’t sure what the best option was and I think you’re right thanks to you this seems to be the best option so far just not sure how long it would take to get to Canada. I appreciate your hard work and all the videos you do it’s very helpful thank you

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheZakkmylde I’ve had about 5 or 6 orders from them. Things in stock arrive in 3-4 working days. Honda genuine parts that they get from the factory take maybe 7-10 days to get and then 3-4 days for delivery. I’ve only used DHL with them, but they seem to be pretty good. Emmet at Bikerzbits is very helpful and replies to emails if you have questions.

I really like this bike but its a shame for honda to put handlebars like this on a dualsport bike at this price. Also the exhaust manifold should be stainless. Nice job looks really good!!!

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

It is, and it should. I guess they have to cut costs where they can. If you only every ride it as an on-road commuter as low cost transport, the stock bars are fine. If you’re a bit taller, and riding off road, I guess the alternatives are easy enough to fit.

@nickg2431

2 жыл бұрын

i just bought one excellent bike but built to a price.My husky 450 its not....but still v happy with it.

Thanks for the video I just put Tusk Chubbs on mine this past week and I was wondering why the clamp for the controls won't fit all the way tight on the bars I'll have to grind off those nipples too thanks bud

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

There are two schools of thought. One is to drill the bars, but some manufacturers do not recommend that (including Renthal) and you need to be 100% sure you have the right position before you drill. The other way is to grind them off (what I did) though when you come to refit the controls you only need a narrow wrap of tape on the bars just where the metal clamp would grip before. If you can see tape showing when you refit the controls, it’s too wide and you won’t get it to clamp.

Don’t cut off the metal tabs on the control unit. The throttle will not be stable and swivel even with tightening the bolts.

@PeakMotorcycles

9 ай бұрын

I disagree. Mine haven't moved in two years. I found that a few (2-3) wraps of tape only where the clamp fits to the bars and no wider works perfectly well. If you put on too much tape or too wide, then it won't clamp. The alternative for this video would have been to leave the tabs and drill the bars, something that Renthal do not recommend, and I'm quite sure that if I'd done that, the other half of the internet would be telling me it was dangerous to drill the bars. I guess you can't please everyone all the time.

€100 for that?? Geez... Anyways, great vid!

@PeakMotorcycles

2 жыл бұрын

🤣🤣🤣. I nearly got that back on eBay. (Now switched to 20mm Apico conversion risers.

@nickg2431

2 жыл бұрын

@@PeakMotorcycles do you still have the 50mm risers with converters and if so would you like to sell them??

You should attach a warning to your Video. I trusted your method and now I am not able to stop my throttle Control from rotating anymore. I just did not expect this. I even did not thought there would be a chance that this could happen. Completely anoyed about that.

@PeakMotorcycles

10 ай бұрын

So what did you do differently? Mine hasn’t moved for two years. A common problem seems to be that people put the tape on the bars too wide. It should only be a narrow bit, just where the clamp inside the pod is located. Too wide and it snags on the plastic either side and won’t tighten. Also, I know that Renthal advise against drilling their bars, so I’m pretty sure I would have been damned either way. This approach with removing the nub worked for me and many others. I’m sorry it hasn’t worked for you, but if you could share what you did with the tape, I think that is the most likely problem.

@jensherrmann7116

10 ай бұрын

I did a small strap of tape. With a small height. It did not tighten Up, then I had to make it higher until it tights, but until it is only tape, you can move it when you pull on the gas control. On the left side i don't care, but on the right side, spinning around the handlebar ist a big issue off road.

LOL,,,measure and mark,,,drill once,,you could have marked rotation and measured in

@PeakMotorcycles

3 жыл бұрын

It’s the measure bit that I wasn’t sure about. With new bars, in a new position, and the option of moving the risers, working out what felt best was not easy. Perhaps if I’d used those bars for a long time and was just replacing like for like, or was certain of where they needed to be, then yes, exactly what you said.

lighter means its probably more weak when you fall , fat in the middle , thats all.. the double bar make the OEm stronger ,, thats kids tuning for me , its useless , remember me teenager messing on my moped

@PeakMotorcycles

Жыл бұрын

Or Honda make the bike to a budget? I know plenty of folks who bent the stock bars from a light drop. I don’t know anyone who’s broken a Renthal Fatbar on one of these. Lighter might also mean different material? Alloy vs steel. It’s also the grade of both that makes a difference. The OEM bar is many things, but I’m not sure it’s known for it’s strength. Happy to be proved wrong though if you know of any alloy 28mm bars that have failed?