when it comes to painting anything, its 90% prep and 10% doing the paint

@paulhoskins7852

Жыл бұрын

Absolutely correct!

@user-ds9zd8eq6u

2 ай бұрын

It's both!

You are not going for a paint job, you're giving your engine a clean, "witnessable" appearance which helps you identify leaks and look good doing it. Brush works great 👍

@whatyoumakeofit6635

2 жыл бұрын

Well said

@michaeldose2041

2 жыл бұрын

Exactly, and much easier to clean when you have a sealed, rather than a porous cast iron surface.

@HighlanderNorth1

2 жыл бұрын

☑️ Yeah, that's true, but there's another significant benefit to painting your Mopar or GM engine! Applying a can of Ford blue engine paint is an easy way to pick up an extra 75hp + 70ft/lbs of torque! 😁

@michaeldose2041

2 жыл бұрын

@@HighlanderNorth1 The only caution I would give there is, there are many documented cases of organ rejection with that approach.

@kengruginski6889

2 жыл бұрын

First of all I'd like to say I love your videos very knowledgeable my one and only question for you you're using Rust-Oleum paint with a brush do you know if safety orange color from Rust-Oleum is almost similar to the Mopar Orange engine color I'm asking because that's the only luck that I found with that color with Rust-Oleum any suggestions would be helpful keep up the good work my friend

KZread should give this guy one of the awards for most educational channels. I watch all the videos of his I can. He’s got a certain temperament and way about him that makes it easy to learn what he’s teaching. This video is pretty basic stuff but dude has massive knowledge about engines and how everything works

More of you old school guys need to be making videos like this. These little trucks that lead to the best and most affordable results are invaluable. Thanks my man. I’m gonna use this 👍

@j.t.cooper2963

Жыл бұрын

This is stuff we learned from our elders growing up. I'm 58 and I try to pass my knowledge on to whoever is interested.

@NoMonkeyBizz

Жыл бұрын

Ooh man im about to do this soon

@pauljones7464

Жыл бұрын

Fabulous

"Happy little casting numbers". Bob is hiding out at UTG!

Here's trick learned from doing marine engines. Cut your gloss Rustoleum with about 8~10% acetone. And use a better brush. It'll gloss even better, it'll flow into corners better, and it'll bite into the primer for a better bond 😊

@tarstarkusz

2 жыл бұрын

It's hard to paint well with a cheap brush. Those are dollar tree level brushes he's using.

@JayMalone26

2 жыл бұрын

I cut my Rustoleum w/ mineral spirits and had success results. It dries to a satin finish, though. Looks great for the undercarriage and dries very smooth like it was sprayed on.

@lynnhooley7608

2 жыл бұрын

Last step, Immediately as you get the paint applied, pull all your brushstrokes the same direction. "I learned that trick from a carpenter"

@dheujsnrhfydhehehshshhdggsd

2 жыл бұрын

@@JayMalone26 same

@BareRoseGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Depending on weather, is what I cut it with, but it seems to always be Acetone because its the winter lol. And a Purdy brush, because I paint houses as well lol. Pretty cool tip he has on that Torch, I'm definitely going to give that a go from now on.

Uncle Tony is like the Paul Harrell of engine building. 👍

@theprofessionalamateur4150

Жыл бұрын

😂😂😂 thats a great comparison.

@buckwild6587

Жыл бұрын

I got that reference!

@adriancastillo6892

4 ай бұрын

"Today we are using Remington golden Saber 180gr full metal jacket 40.cal ammunition out of a 4th gen glock 22"

Another tip is that some hardware stores can mix enamels to any of the colors that they have for their latex paint. I have done this many times and most people don’t know about this.

1:28 "... do a video on it!" Well said! It's a challenge to all of the armchair critics who just have to point out how much smarter or more skilled they are than the person who actually is putting out fantastic, useful content. Cheers from Key West, Capt. Blackheart Charlie

@jaredmayer3960

2 жыл бұрын

Last place I was on holidays was Key West…so nice.

@GMCJay_lly

2 жыл бұрын

Keys are AWESOME! 239 here.

@wyrdo1501

2 жыл бұрын

hey bud, you ever run into Kevin from how to sail oceans channel? that dude is pretty hardcore lol

This video is exactly why I watch UTG. But now I feel like pulling my motor, stripping it down, map gas, acetone, and painting it with a brush. next time... Thanks Uncle Tony. your videos are much appreciated.

Channeling your inner Bob Ross I see. "Happy little casting numbers (trees)...". I love it!

You are the Bob Ross of engine painting. The the ideas and methods you show help us diy people. Many thanks!

@airy-mountain

3 ай бұрын

Happy little casting numbers, let them shine. There you go, happy!

I love that you keep your channel focus on home builds. Your knowledge pool is admirable. I hope to be half as knowledgeable

Used rust-oleum for decades for lots of things doing just like you showed. We made a sort of kiln over to heat up casings in to paint to get rid of the moisture and oil. Reasonable low temperatures as to not effect the metallurgy of course. We liked using either yellow or white though as it made leaks from hydraulic pumps and motors or engine blocks really obvious.

This is the best "low budget" how to for the average guy in a very long time. Thanks T!

Never would've thought to use a torch to sweat the engine. Thank you for the great video

I've used Rustoleum as engine paint for years. I also like to use their "hammered finish" paint on the sheet metal parts like valve covers and oil pans. It leaves a different type of surface that helps hide small imperfections. On top of that, it just looks cool!

@ThePaulv12

2 жыл бұрын

Hammertone on engine blocks would actually look pretty cool I reckon. Hammertone grey or Altec Lansing green would make an engine look very no nonsense 'industrial.'

@MrTheHillfolk

2 жыл бұрын

Years ago in high school, we were restoring a pickup and the teacher had us he's black Rust-Oleum brush on paint for the frame. We laughed. That was like 1990. I saw the truck about 10 years ago at a show and it still looked like we just painted it. I'm a believer. I used it on one of my builds ,came out great for all the suspension. I've had great success with a 30$ husky detail gun and real automotive paint for engines ,works 10x better then duplicolor engine paint and is alot glossier and durable, but the Rust-Oleum is the next best.

@wht240sxka

2 жыл бұрын

You can get the same effect from dumping dot3 on it, ask me how I know 🙄

@offroadspecialties7383

2 жыл бұрын

I paint all chassis, roll cages and fabricated components with the black hammertone Rustolium. That stuff is fantastic. Brush or roll on only. The spray cans aren't the same thing. It doesn't separate right. It's like flat black with bubbles.

@papadocusmc3949

2 жыл бұрын

@@wht240sxka how ? why? and in replace of ? 3 dot will eat ur paint..

I love these videos so much thanks for sharing the experience UTG

@jacobclark9117

2 жыл бұрын

Built on utg? Never would've guessed

Just followed your instructions to paint my block. Turned out amazingly! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! It turned out beautiful!! Thank you !!

15:14 Your technique isn't bad at all. And you're really close to it looking absolutely amazing. All you need to do is work on the discipline to do one thing: to a quick light coat. I mean not even cover the block entirely. Let the primer show through so only about 25% of the block is actually covered in the fresh paint. This is called a tack coat, and it significantly expands that "margin of error" for runs.

Tony , you’re right on with aerosol paints. They contain a higher percentage of thinner to allow them to spray. Higher solids content equals better performance and adhesion.

I love the “nod” to Bob Ross when you mentioned, “happy little casting numbers”. Great videos, keep ‘em coming!

thank you for sharing all your knowledge uncle tony. youve helped me learn soo much about old engines, and please keep sharing so we can all learn more!

Great vid, Tony; my biggest take-away was the prep using the torch. Brilliant. Thanks.

I never thought about using the torch. Great idea!

This is a VERY MUCH NEEDED video to put out on the ol' tube! Thank you for this!

You can never be to old to learn new tricks, Old school knowledge is the best thing to learn. Thank you

Only UTG can make a video about painting an engine block interesting. Learned a few things today, thanks!

I agree with you about Rustoleum - used since I was a kid and it lives up to its rep. Great video and useful advice!

Never realized that a brush paint is way better for an engine block. Thanks UTG for showing me a simple and effective way to do this.

Great video! Thanks for sharing these pearls of wisdom, and passing them down and preserving them for the future.

Effective, inexpensive, and simple to do. The holy trinity of DIY’ers everywhere.

I was wondering about the effect of heat from the engine would have on rustoleum but if Tony says it holds up I believe it.

@MrTheHillfolk

2 жыл бұрын

Most standard paints are good for 250 degrees.... So if your engine is going to 250, you might wanna check your cooling system 😄

@jimifed2798

2 жыл бұрын

@@MrTheHillfolk Yeah, that makes sense the block shouldn't reach that but the heads might after the water pump stops.

@Truth-Seeker777

2 жыл бұрын

I bake rustoeum onto small parts at 220 Fahrenheit, so I think it should handle the heat just fine

50 years ago a professional painter told me Rust Oleum is very good paint. just do it rite and let it dry well. I have done 5 vehicles with it and they all came out fine.

@reaper20015

2 жыл бұрын

Rust-Oleum has a new paint out called implement paint. We buy it at Tractor Supply, holds up great on frames and blocks. Spray cans aren't what they used to be. VHT used to be the best.......till they sissified it

@TheBrokenLife

2 жыл бұрын

@@reaper20015 I have always bad bad results with VHT. First tried it around 2005-ish and it held up like crap. It's also expensive. I switched off to spray bombs of Rust-Oleum engine enamel and I'm happy with it so far.

Wow, all the years I've been dealing/building cars I've never even thought of brush painting a engine block! Great job thank you for the video!

Proud craftsmanship!!!! We need more folks like him

Another fantastic video, very informative. You're the only guy I've seen who shows how to actually prep a block and I never knew to do the torch trick! Rustoleum is a great paint. When you painted your block, I got serious Bob Ross relaxation vibes.

I will definitely use this method on my next build. Great video!

The contents of this video seams so trivia but are sufficient and extremely important and informative to every engine builder , young or old . How to show off your hours of metitulous work for as long as possible , thanks for the information.

Great tips for block painting, especially the heating block with Map gas! Totally makes sense. I never would have thought of this! Great tips for primer and paint as well. I will follow you instructions!

@albertgaspar627

2 жыл бұрын

@@DanEBoyd they bake after the powder is applied via static electric attraction.

The reason the equipment paint and rustoleum holds up well, is that it's an acrylic enamel (which is oil base, not water - not the same as acrylic paint). A lot of rattle can products, even ones labeled "enamel" are lacquer. Using the brush is definitely a great idea. It's like this - you drop some sauce on your pants, you can maybe lift it off. Until you push it in and rub it around, then you're not getting it off. Just make sure you don't leave a bristle behind. This method of painting an engine is super solid and there's no doubt that it'll hold up for many years.

@ripvanrevs

2 жыл бұрын

I've been remodeling houses for over 25 years and never used a spray painter. I've always thought a brush did a much better job. Quick tip if you are painting wood, drywall etc with a water based latex and you have a couple spots come through like crayon, grease or water stain. Just shoot those small areas with a little rustoleum spray paint and then paint over after dry. Saves from buying a bigger can of oil base paint or primer.

Just got my block back from the machine shop, this is the best video I've found for prepping and painting it. Thanks for this Unc👍

Thanks for the help. We all appreciate it.

Hey brother , u have a good touch with the brush …. I’m inspired !!! …. Priming is smart , but the heating up tip is gold !!!!

I brushed the whole underside of my 58 chevy during a frame off restoration. "Chassis Saver" quart worked great for that application. That stuff hardens with moisture in the air and literally welded a 2x4 to my concrete floor when some spilled. A 3 ft prybar wouldnt remove it. The 2x4 split apart and left a chunk stuck so bad its taken 5 years to wear it away. Ive used acetone and/or rubbing alcohol for cleaning before paint. I painted my 396bbc with "cast iron gray" engine paint.

@ThePaulv12

2 жыл бұрын

I'm thinking it might be a cheap way to anchor floor joists to a concrete slab when you need to turn a garage into another room.

@MrTheHillfolk

2 жыл бұрын

Yep I spilled some por 15 on a spot in the shop about 12-14 yrs ago right in a high traffic area. Haha I bet it would buff up nice still 😄

@terrythomas790

2 жыл бұрын

@@MrTheHillfolk But wont stick on a car! lol

@GVlVG

2 жыл бұрын

@@terrythomas790 concrete has really deep pores, so it sits in really nicely, for cars you need to really scuff it well

I’m glad I clicked this. The torch trick is really great ! Makes sense and I never would’ve thought of it.

Very good video, I must say whoever done your filming is top notch, no shaking, didn't give me motion sickness like a lot of videos do. Good job !!!

1. Love the Bob Ross flashback! Happy little cloud... 2. Acetone rocks! I've even had decent luck using it to melt the top layer of a crappy rattle can job to get a fresh (crappy rattle can) top coat to actually stick for a few years. 3. Has anyone tried POR 15 or Chassis Saver in high heat applications? It's almost indestructible on floor pans, frame rails, bathtubs and kitchen sinks, curious if anyone has tried it on a block.

@vladanorve9383

2 жыл бұрын

Haha I was gonna bring up Bob Ross too

@TheBrokenLife

2 жыл бұрын

I've tried POR's POR-20 product, which is designed for high-heat applications (specifically exhaust manifolds) and it didn't go well. Despite following all of the directions and even having it professionally baked on, It peeled off of everything I tried with it within 2 years. Some years later I used up what I had of it lying around on some chassis stuff just to see what would happen and it all rusted again in about 3-4 years, despite being top coated in color too. My belief is the color layer is what was actually doing the work. All of that was on rust-belt driven daily rigs, so no baby treatment. I wanted to see how it would hold up before using it for anything important. A buddy of mine didn't believe me and did his CJ-7 fender well headers and side pipes with it and it lasted less than a year, also in daily driving. He didn't have it baked, but he heat cycled it and all of that the way the directions suggested. Anyhow... I'm not a fan of the POR high-temp line based on my experience.

@MrTheHillfolk

2 жыл бұрын

I do like POR, but lately I've had great luck with a 30$ husky detail gun and real automotive paint for an engine. Lasts better then the trash engine paint spray bombs any day, but the por and Rust-Oleum is a second best. I did all the suspension on my summer car about 10yrs back with por and Rust-Oleum. 2 coats of por ,2 coats of brush on Rust-Oleum, and 2 coats of spray bomb Rust-Oleum for a nice gloss. And hopefully if the paint does chip,it'll just chip and still see the brush on paint.

@kcav5374

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheBrokenLife I used Eastwood's stainless steel paint on some exhaust manifolds when I rebuilt a 302 for a 77 Mercury Cougar. I had shot blasted them & spayed brake clean on them & also used a torch to wick the moisture away before I painted them. I brushed it on as it said, touching up any scuffs and heat cycled it & I was surprised how long they looked good even after a bit of oil spilled on them it just burned away and they still looked good.

@TheBrokenLife

2 жыл бұрын

@@kcav5374 I've had other bad experiences with Eastwood so I'm not too inclined to try their other products. For exhaust stuff, these days I just buy stainless and call it a day.

You're channel rocks my man even being a GM guy!! Your knowledge is invaluable and always cross-make compatible! My next engine I do I will experiment with this method! I never even considered using a brush! Good call! Thanks!

You Sir, ARE an artist of sorts. Great job,paint job, and info. Thanks for the video

I plan on building a 454 for my squarebody. Thanks for the tips, Uncle Tony

My dad and I spent a few years buying and selling old tractors 40 years ago. We would pick up a gallon of paint for ford, john deere, oliver, IH, MF, Allis Chalmers, you name it. We always used a brush. We also used a fine natural (camel, horse) hair brush. It held paint better and had fewer drips and runs, better coverage and the brush marks disappeared almost instantly. We even painted a 64 GMC dually that way on the body, rims and flatbed. We could get roughly 2 tractors per gallon. My dad wanted to try spraying it to save time. We used 4 times the paint and the results were not nearly as good. There is no such thing as overspray with a brush. Nothing popped like a 2 tone color scheme. I did this to a 235 stovebolt Chevy, chevy orange. Valve cover was aluminum gray with the orange Chevrolet script letters, the intake was the same color. The starter, generator, road draft tube, air cleaner, brackets and bolt heads were gloss black. The motor was my first rebuild and low on power, so when my brother wrecked his 69 Impala with a 327 and 2 speed powerglide, I dropped that into my 56 shortbed stepside pickup. That 327 looked much better under the hood.

@ripvanrevs

2 жыл бұрын

Oil based paint is kind of "self-leveling" so the streaks disappear.

@bradgarner2795

2 жыл бұрын

Can I ask what color for you used to get close to “ chevy orange”. Thanks

@davidj.2870

2 жыл бұрын

@@bradgarner2795 Its been 40+ years since I did that but if I recall, my local parts store had engine paint in quarts. What brand it was I have no idea. I know they also had ford blue, mopar blue and orange. Could it have been from their paint shop? possibly. I do remember buying the body color for the 56 pickup from a ppg dealer at the time after reading a hot rod magazine article on painting your own car and ppg was what they used on a 69 Z28. It wasn't lacquer though, I remember that.

@davidj.2870

2 жыл бұрын

@@ripvanrevs Painting outside in Texas heat made it a requirement because it set quickly. My dad always bought the cheap brushes and they always left streaks. His idea was use the brush and toss it rather than clean it. His way also required doing it for a second coat. As the one painting the tractor and giving it a single coat was my preference I went with a better brush and reused it. But yes you are right..

Hi Tony, GREAT Video, I am an old automotive Machinist , engine builder and Body N paint/frame man and fully approve your methods, the mapp torch info is priceless.

Absolutely the best tutorial on the internet. Been doing this exact method for years, on engines & much, much more. Works everytime.

Any painting is all in the prep even your method… great stuff uncle!

Can also use propane. I just tested it on a bare block I got back from machine shop. Incredible.

OMG I NEEDED THIS, THANK YOU

I like your focus on low cost and high quality.

This still is my favorite video....Clever and resourceful...thanks' Uncle Tony.

I've had a rustoliem oil base paint job on a 2.3 for about 8 years. Its still on there still looks great!! I put some m.e.k. and penetrol in with it and get fantastic results with the same methods you used, you really cant beat rustoliem it is a great best kept secret!! The m.e.k. dries it quickly, penetrol helps with rust and helps it flow out.

You mentioned Tractor Supply. They have a brand of paint called "Majic", it can be thinned, hardener added and shot from a spray gun. If the directions are followed precisely, it gives an amazing finish. Oh, you missed a spot.

@terrythomas790

2 жыл бұрын

I saw it. It was in the freeze plug

Thanks for all the tips Uncle Tony, will try the torch first, and then paint mine by brush this time 👍

Thankyou so very much for your down to earth, common sense video. At 70 years old I'm restoring my first classic and getting ready for reassembly, looking for tips on paint and found this. Thanks again.

Absolutely love the quality of work you preformed. Brushing on rustoleum/ tremclad isn't that bad. The finish may not look as nice as a spray on but in areas like an engine block where you need durability and you need to push the paint into the pores of the cast iron I think brush on is definitely the way to go. I painted the interior of my gutted civic with a brush took a really long time but I did it that way because I couldn't afford to buy the spray cans up here in Canada it's close to $11 a rattle can. I didn't have a compressor at the time but I eventually bought one and painted the exterior of the car with an harbor freight hvlp spray gun

Very nice! I'll have to try that next time. I am a fan of the Pontiac Blue block color myself. Good video Uncle Tony

@MrTheHillfolk

2 жыл бұрын

Haha I did an engine up with the early Pontiac blue ,looked pretty sharp. It was a lil 4 cylinder though. Blue pan and block , semi gloss black head ,and blue valve cover and the rest of the accessories in a flat or semi gloss black. Good times.

Thanks Uncle Tony,for the tip on using torch to withdraw moisture from the cast iron block ! I almost never could keep paint on a block and i NEVER knew there were all those contaminates like what you boiled to the surface with torch.

This was the first video I saw of this man, and my word, he is truly the best in KZread, not only because of his knowledge or his skills, but because he shares his tricks and you are not afraid to follow along with what he says. You have my subscription and my respect mister Tony

In 2010 I had pulled down my old 69 c60. Stripped the cab , frame, engine. I live in Texas but found out I needed to be up in Colorado the following month to pick up a trailer. Short on funds but long on ingenuity I put it back together looking like it came from the factory. All the paint was rustolium equipment paint from local hardware store. It was all brushed on except the final coat. Did a light sand to get rid of brush strokes and runs then thined it a little and sprayed it. The paint is still on it solid if a bit faded from the sun. The trick with the torch i learned from an old timer restoring old tractors. Have 2 farmalls I was doing at the same time as my truck one I used the torch trick on the was already done. It has been 11 years and they are both used to pull hay wagons. The first one looks like nothing has ever been done to it and needed restoration after a couple of years. The one I prepped with the torch still has a solid paint job and only a couple of years old.

Thank you Tony for the great tips. I've been looking for (methods for dummies). And I've thought this would be the simplest method for me. This is for my 53 Ford tractor mostly in pieces. Engine been machined, all back together and rattle can primer. I've often thought of brush painting all the cast iron and I just don't think I can manage a spray gun nor have facilities. And "for dummies", I mean folks with limited experience like me. Thanks again.

@jodygarcia9892

8 ай бұрын

Did you brush it own?

Torching the cast iron is a great tip! Im will use that one one on lots of projects. Thanks man!

I was involved rebuilding with a early Jaguar engine. She was so smooth and pretty. Come to find out that the Jag factory used body filler on the outside of the blocks to make them look so good.

@vintage76vipergreenBeetle

2 жыл бұрын

Didn't know that.

@Prowbar

2 жыл бұрын

on big castings like lathes and machine tools, a lot of filler is used also.

@MrTheHillfolk

2 жыл бұрын

@@Prowbar yeah I'm pretty sure I see some Bondo on our Bridgeport 😄

@Prowbar

2 жыл бұрын

@@MrTheHillfolk ya bet some places of the casting have like a 1/2" layer of Bondo haha

@holeshot1721

2 жыл бұрын

Its a sound and vibration deadner also

Nice! I found the Van Sickle (tractor paint) is also really tough (even in rattle can). If you mix that stuff and add the hardener (not required) it adds more gloss.

@sittinlow6787

11 ай бұрын

I used to paint all our little toys like go karts and mini bikes with them. That paint is tough!! Might see if it works good on motors

You're a great teacher, Tony!

Great sound quality on this video. I know in the past, you’ve said how low production quality of the video makes it more authentic and grass roots but when UT is laying down the wisdom I want to be able to hear that stuff.

Loved the video. Spent a few mornings this week in eastern Kentucky pulling the 390 out of my papaw's 67 galaxie and tommorow I'm headed home to Michigan with the top end and covers in my car with the intent to clean em up and come back down in a month with it all repainted and ready to reassemble. Only problem is I already picked up a couple rattle cans of Rust-Oleum engine paint 😅. I'll definitely be using some of these tips and maybe end up stashing the cans and picking up some brush on. Thanks for a wonderful video

@randallstewart8487

10 ай бұрын

What county in Eastern Ky,I am in Pike,got my old Jeep engine out, old paint stripped and cleaned up,was going to use Hi Heat rattle can and wasnt sure to use primer under spray can coat,I have changed my mind on the spray cans after this video and going to use the brush on Rustoleum on my jeep block,never thought about map torch on block,which makes sence,and a brush!

I build engines professionally and I agree that engine enamel really isn’t that great, comes off very easy unless you apply several cans. I gotta do what my boss wants but when I do my own personal engines I do it this way, cheaper and better.

@ZERONEINNOVATIONS

2 жыл бұрын

This Rust-Oleum paint doesn't say it's heat resistant. But it works good?

@RinegnProductions

2 жыл бұрын

@@ZERONEINNOVATIONS lmao it’s really house paint tbh

@cleveland2286

Жыл бұрын

@@ZERONEINNOVATIONS its maximum temperature is within normal operating temperature of the engine (250f). If you are exceeding that temp, chances are your engine is overheating.

Dude, what a phenomenal set of tips. I've never thought to pre-bake or heat iron/steel. That's fantastic stuff.

Thank you Tony this was really useful. The quality per dollar sounds like it’s unmatched. Definitely gonna give this a try.

Learned more from you in a few minutes than years of experimenting on my own. Thanks again Unc.

I believe the moisture you're getting when heating it with a torch is from the torch. One of the main products of combustion of MAPP is water, propane does the same, so does almost every gaseous fuel. If you come back to it tomorrow it'll do the same thing.

@funone8716

2 жыл бұрын

Ah yup. Same as the high efficiency furnace in the basement. And why has a condensate pump. Engine block is cold. Combustion byproducts are condensing on the cold block......until it warms up. Then they evaporate.

@UncleTonysGarage

2 жыл бұрын

You're wrong. Watch the video. The area hit by the torch is DRY, the area around it is damp, and you can watch the moisture disappear as the flame passes near it. I stopped at one point specifically to show the contrast.

@totensiebush

2 жыл бұрын

@@UncleTonysGarage I'd appreciate it if you'd do the same basic test a couple days in a row. I don't have an engine block around, but I've done it on 1/2" steel plate in the past with the results I describe, and I don't imagine there's anything in the pores of that (since there aren't pores). Each time I take a torch to a clean, cold plate, I initially get condensation around it, exactly like you're seeing. It's possible that some of what you're getting is coming out of the cast iron block - I don't know - but it looks very similar to what you get doing the same thing on steel plate, any time the plate is cold.

@funone8716

2 жыл бұрын

@@UncleTonysGarage The moisture condensing on the cold cast iron is the exact same principal of how a Condensing Furnace or Boiler works. It's thermal dynamics 101. The cast iron does NOT have that much moisture trapped in it. And that means you are wrong.

@TheBrokenLife

2 жыл бұрын

Something like 95% of all fossil fuel combustion byproduct is water. The important part here is that water boils off at a temperature lower than the flame front. In the case of MAPP and propane, that temperature differential is over 3000F. So, that created water is carried away as steam as part of the combustion process. Likewise, the 3000F+ torch is going to boil off any water on the block. If this didn't happen that way, you'd see a puddle in front of every Reddy-Heater/Salmander that has ever run. Instead what you would normally see is increased condensation on your windows or a steel garage door. The atmosphere is getting "wetter", but the area around the fire is not. This is probably also what is going on with the steel plate that is only briefly heated in one localized area. Keep heating the plate and you'd boil it all off. Just like if you elevated the temperature of the garage door or window above the dew point by blowing a Reddy-Heater straight at it. High efficiency furnaces extract so much heat from the exhaust gases (that's part of the efficiency) that _some_ of the water settles back out and that water needs drained. That's why they can be plumbed with plastic pipe. That's not a fair comparison to a MAP torch. The two are only similar at the burners. The torch has no heat exchanger or combustion chamber. It's a straight dump to atmosphere. Without really knowing how they calculate furnace efficiency, I would assume the torch is close to 0. Back to the block... I can also believe that if left to atmospheric conditions for a day that ambient water in the air could collect on the material again so you could do it day after day after day and see the same thing over and over again. The speed which that happens is probably going to depend on a lot of things, like the dew point. So... I believe you're both right in your own ways. Plus, Tony is cooking things off that may not necessarily be water. I've never really felt the need to pass over stuff with a torch before painting it, but for the 10 or 15 minutes it might take to do it, it's probably not a bad idea just so you can burn off "whatever".

This is why I love your videos man. Practical advice plus your experience. FYI, I have a 2000 Zinc yellow Mustang (it's 22 years old -- original owner here LOL) -- I blew some pretty decent money buying exact - matched caliper paint until by accident one day I discovered Rustoleum John Deere Yellow as simply a darker shade of the same color (pretty hard to match otherwise). On calipers -- it's perfect. Bonus: Stuff is darn near indestructible. Can't say that about other products. Pennies on the dollar and a better choice. Who da thunk it? Anyway, I'm going to be using your advice about the rusty metal primer and paint. Thanks again.

Thank you! I learned a few things I really never thought about! I appreciate that very much. Great video! It's nice that you recognize the common builder.

Best mechanic info on KZread! I have never seen the torch trick, it probably cooks out any oil particles as well

Great instruction. Nice to see I've been doing something right. I've had great results using a MAPP torch or an electric heat gun to get the moisture out of cast iron, followed by acetone or lacquer thinner cleaning, then Rust-O-Leum primer and gloss rust paint and always brushed applied. Great way to paint brake calipers.

@wjye

Жыл бұрын

The standard rust oleum paint won’t burn off the calipers??

@chrisgraham2904

Жыл бұрын

@@wjye No. Have never had an issue of burning, discoloring for flaking. I've usually done calipers and drums in fire red, or a bright yellow.

About as basic as it gets and I still enjoyed watching it.😎👍

I like it. Never thought to paint it with a brush. I always used a rattle can. I just learned something new. Thanks Tony!

Thanks for sharing your skills and experience. Your advice really helped me. I stumped up the cash for glyptal to paint the inside of my Lister CS, which really lifted it. Hopefully it'll be good for another 80 years 👍🏻

Also I assume it beats the Dulicolor turquiose I put on some bare spots on my 318 with like a wire brush and probably Rustoleum primer while I was waiting for a friend to come back with the darn engine hoist. :) Later that remaining engine paint ended up looking surprisingly good on a Stratocaster. :)

That’s genius to use the torch before painting. I’m gonna try that on the next block or heads I paint. I’ve had good luck with the rattle cans so far. Rustoleum is the go to for me.

@ripvanrevs

2 жыл бұрын

I tried it on the drywall I was going to paint and it didn't work out so well.

@SpecialAgentJamesAki

2 жыл бұрын

@@ripvanrevs 🤣🤣🤣🤣

@The_BIG_salad

2 жыл бұрын

@@ripvanrevs lol

I really enjoy your videos, Tony. Always excellent information from the guy who lives next door. My kind of people.

I've used that same Rust-O-leum paint with success on axle housings and a bunch of stuff, even a truck cab, I like it, can't wait to try your method on an engine

rustoleum hasn't been killed by the epa because it's a fish oil base. Takes about a month to fully harden. I like to spray it through a cheap harbor freight hvlp gun with Majic enamel hardener. Respirator is an absolute must if you use the enamel hardener. Works great on wheels. I've always wondered if it would hold up to engine heat, now I know! Great content as usual

@jeffnolan7392

8 ай бұрын

That's whale oil, and last I checked, whales aren't fish, and Rust-Oleum hasn't had whale oil in it since whales became endangered. Rust-Oleum products no longer contain whale oil, instead using resins derived from alkyds, polyurethanes, epoxies, latex, etc. Evanston. (quote from manufacturer) The term, "fish oil" appears in answers about paint, but by "fish oil" they meant "whale oil".

I’m a rust-oleum guy to. I use it exclusively on my metal and other projects. That sunrise red is awesome; I use it on my steel fence posts, it doesn’t chip at all, and I use their primer before the finish coat. I’ve got some fence posts that I painted 22 years ago and it’s still great and it’s exposed to the weather of the Pacific Northwest.

@MrTheHillfolk

2 жыл бұрын

Haha omg I did the complete suspension on my mk2 Jetta coupe in that color about 10yrs ago and it still looks mint. 2 coats of por 15 for a base 2 coats of brush on sunrise red , and 2 top coats from a spray can in that color for the gloss after a little sanding to remove any brush marks. Shiny and still looks great!

@MrMopar413

2 жыл бұрын

@@MrTheHillfolk awesome

Spot on! You have great videos, I was heating a block watching this video and the moisture was dripping on the floor... I really hadn't thought about what was in the poors of the block that I was painting because it was dry, boy was I fooled! Thank you!

Appreciated Uncle tony! Never even thought to just put a torch to a cleaned block!

Tony I have a cheap method you may or may not like but it appears to work well, at least for me. Built a powder coat oven by converting an 250 gallon fuel tank into a oven, well I went a little overboard with mine but moving on. Used oven heater elements and a Process Control unit from Ebay. Final product cost was around $150 but I went a little crazy with mine. What I do is like you did heat the block up to 250 deg for about 20 mins, as you said you have all sorts of oils and crud in the block. And yes naptha works outstanding. then back in the oven again for a few minutes, several cycles. Then reheat the block to around 250 deg pull her out and hit it with powder coat of your pick, I use Columbia Coatings as they seem to be a quality product at a reasonable price. Give it several heavy coats and all is good. I use this a lot on air cooled engines and about the only issue so far is the cylinders and maybe the heads will eventually darken but with water cooled seems to hold for a shit load of time. As a added bennie Tony you can do wheels real easy. You can use a Harbor Freight spray outfit for most simple jobs but I broke down and bought a $500 unit for fancy stuff. Yes what you did is how I used to do it, just tried powder coat and loved the results.

@thomasheer825

2 жыл бұрын

@@rheidtech Lucky you, I got most of my general powder from the Bulk Clearance from Columbia Coating. Hey got some for just over a $1 a pound and others for $5, but as you know powder goes one hell of a long way. Often I use lacquer thinner, and found it is cheaper by the 5 gallon can from a auto parts store, about 60% of what it is at Walmart by the gallon.

The Bob Ross of engine painting!

This video was a god send. Like everything in the auto world you will get a hundred different opinions and a thousand different product options. Your simple and practical explanations cut through all of the noise. Thank you!

You are the man your channel is full of good info this is at a SEMA show level paint job I had this problem paint came right off. I did not know why it came of but it needed more prep thank you.

My dad taught me about warming the metal over 40 years ago, when I was a kid rebuilding and selling bicycles. I live in a humid climate near the ocean, so moisture returns very quickly. Spray paint wasn't as good in the 70s, but Rustoleum always gave great results. I'd spray on the primer while the metal was still warm, but not TOO hot. The ceramic engine paint they make now is phenomenal!

@hoamai2734

2 жыл бұрын

Uiyyyyú

@jeffrykopis5468

2 жыл бұрын

@@hoamai2734 huh? English, please.