As a 12 year mechanic myself, guys like this dude are the absolute best to listen to for learning awesome tips, tricks, and rules of thumb

@kainhall

Жыл бұрын

yup.... you could be a 52 year mechanic..... and still find tips and tricks here (or anywhere for that matter) . its like they say..... the more you know, the more you realize you dont know

@Chriscarnes1619

9 ай бұрын

That's right

@Mebot29

6 ай бұрын

@@kainhall if you feel stupid it means you learnt something

I remember meeting a old hot rodder years ago who spent hours on smoothing out a ford flathead block. Some people told him he wasted his time. Others like myself just marveled at it like a piece of art

Another chapter in your book. I was taught to deburr a block by using files. Yes files. With a file your chamfers are smaller and work just as well. You are less lightly to screw something up and you can file to the outside of the block keeping less shavings from inside the block. My son was taught using files. Look at the work, Decide what you are doing, Go slow.

@MrTheHillfolk

Жыл бұрын

I've half decked a Hercules 6 cylinder with a file. It was way out in nowhere land and would pop a head gasket every 2-3yrs. I pulled the head and the deck had all kinds of gouges from a crappy deck job. Anyways ,2-3hrs of filing off the high spots , new gasket , havent heard from them in 7-8yrs now 😁 And for some bodywork lately ,it's been real handy. I took some welds down to surface on an aluminum fender and polished it and it's mint. You can feel when the imperfection is gone because the file glides across and removes almost nothing. Good stuff

@cowthedestroyer

Жыл бұрын

@@MrTheHillfolk on top of it a good file goes an insanely long way on the amount of work you can get done. If i had to deck a block by hand i would take a sheet of glass and put it ontop then file it and i bet it would just about as good as sending it to a machine shop.

@scrappyhustler7467

Жыл бұрын

I agree 100% I too was taught to use files as well I actually have my late grandfathers old files and I use them alot I completely agree it's a slower process however when it comes to removing metal slower is better in this case.

@rogerstill719

Жыл бұрын

A pedal to adjust the speed of an electric die grinder is MUST.

@kevinmcguire3715

Жыл бұрын

@@rogerstill719 Foredom makes excellent long lasting servicable units with a pedal and a cable between the spindle and the motor. They don't get hot in your hand. I purchased lots of them in a startup company which made implantable heart defibrillators/pacemakers.

Detailing a block is really therapeutic once you get over the whole " I might fuck this thing up" stage of doing it!

@lilmike2710

Жыл бұрын

Right? 👍

@bsrob1

Жыл бұрын

Yes just take ur time and pay attention.

@captainjohnh9405

Жыл бұрын

Boy, that is sooo true. Quiet time, no one talking to me, just me and the metal. And very often, even when done, nobody else will see the results, but I will know it is there and the machine will last longer and run better.

@greasedog5699

Жыл бұрын

I've got a Chevy 350 that has been my go to several times over the years when I just want to clear my head. No real plans with the block yet, just a good core laying around. No casting flash anywhere, polished lifter valley, radiused oil drains, and I'm not done with it yet. Great for clearing your head.

@jtyoung706

Жыл бұрын

@@captainjohnh9405 exactly! That and the fact that you can gain small advantages over folks with the same setup that didn't take the time and just slapped it together!

Stress Risers: I flew a zillion older airplanes that had sheet aluminum cracks, and the solution was always to "Stop Drill" a small hole at the end of the crack. Do that and the load is spread around the circumference of the hole, and the crack never advanced.

Most of my own builds are small and big block Chevys. Your comment on cracking in the main webs is exactly why I, unlike many others, avoid factory 4 bolt main blocks. Most, if not all stock Chevy 4 bolt main engines have the outer bolt holes drilled straight into the web parallel to the inner holes and crankshaft. If I'm building an engine for a daily driver or a mild cruiser that won't see the high side of 6000 rpm, I'm fine with 2 bolt mains. If I'm building a race engine that will see high rpm, aftermarket main caps with splayed outer bolt holes and the extra machine work required are the only way to go for me. I also chamfer or radius EVERYTHING! I'm not giving cracks any chance to start!

It’s amazing how much flashing is in a production engine. I cleaned up a pair of heads for a truck I owned years ago. Flashing down inside the valve bowl area. Talk about restriction. After cleaning all that up with a die grinder, port matching to the Edelbrock headers I bought, new set of rings, wow! What a difference it made on my daily driver. Time well spent! Oh, and by the way, I always chase out the bolt holes, in the blind holes, I use a bottom tap.

The 1970 Boss 302 Engine modification book states, after smoothing out flashing, you should be able to run your hand around any portion of the block without fear of getting cut.

@jesse75

Жыл бұрын

Did that my engine. Inside and out.

@jesse75

Жыл бұрын

Which I could get my hands on that book and see what else is in it.

@8000RPM.

Жыл бұрын

@@jesse75 I think reprints are still available,...

@8000RPM.

Жыл бұрын

@@jesse75 I have a copy,...

@jesse75

Жыл бұрын

@@8000RPM. 👍

There's another factor in coolant passages. Dead zones as far as coolant flow goes. For an example on AMXJ's KZread channel he has a series of interviews with an individual who was involved in cylinder head porting on the 4.0. One thing th heyfid was install thermocouples all through the engine. One of the things they found was dead coolant flow towards the rear of the block between cylinder cores. A fix for this is to install exterior coolant lines to shoot coolant right into those areas. This could be done on any engine that has hot spots caused by uneven coolant flow. Aldo the farther the heat source is from where the coolant is introduced to the block or head the hotter the coolant is by the time it gets to the rear of the block or head. Overheating kills more engines than anything else. This is one reason the Lemons for example requires only wayer as coolant. Second is probably bearing failures due to lack of oil pressure and flow. As for blocks splitting under high power loads, detonation etc. One thing the manufactures could have done is to have a web cast into the blocks between the cylinder banks. The webs could have been cast almost as high as the finidhed ends of the blocks. The cost per block would have been negligible. But weight was probably also a factor. In many ways the US auto industry penny pinched itself to death. Look at a lot of the imports. Even on four cylinder engines they employed deep skirted blocks.

my name is James, the first video of yours that I saw was the frame work on the dodge charger. You impressed me. I have been looking for a 1966/1967 charger for years and what i find is rusted out or so much money I hope to have my own one day

I’m into a large journal 327 right now that’s full of junk in the cooling passages. Been working on it for several days inspecting and cleaning it up before it goes to the machine shop. It’s pretty amazing what you can learn by just studying the block for a while. I find something new everyday. I think this is what separates the novice from the expert. The devil is in the details. Excellent video UT!

This is why I have my blocks heat cleaned.

Attention to detail, my friend. Can’t wait to see what the three of you can get out of this project engine.👍

@captainjohnh9405

Жыл бұрын

My old Master Chief Petty Officer would be proud of UT's attention to detail.

There is a lot more involved in cleaning or detailing an engine than people think, all the best to you and your loved ones

Thanks, Tony ! I learned some important tips, here. I've been deburring my blocks for 45+ years. It;s actually a process I enjoy. In fact, the whole engine process from initial grime clean to firing it the first time. The unfun is AFTER assembly, and catastrophic engine failure happens 6 laps into the first practice (I circle track Mopars) due to a hyd lifter coming apart. erg .......

You should speak on the biggest issue core shift ,which is the most important thing with both older heads and blocks cam tunnel, liffter bores ect especially if they are not virgin or factory fresh

@albertgaspar627

Жыл бұрын

i think he should mention how to find it on a block you're buying. afterward, it can only be worked out by the machine shop, perhaps. like offset boring a cylinder towards the lifter valley but not towards the waterpump, or in cam bearings, oversizing to use roller bearings.

Transfer of knowledge, just can't be replaced. Kudos for sharing a mere fraction of your life's lessons- because that's what the youngster's can't fathom is the pain of failures to the nTH power that someone shared with you and so on and so on. There is no way to learn it all, web search it all, absorb it all- you have to ultimately live it, experience failure, figure out why, and actually learn from it. That's the real secret- it can't be bought, it can't be programmed, it can only be lived! Kudos and much respect!

Thank you for this video. 73 building my last two engines and doing them to the max. port, polish, balancing, and etc..... your videos have given me some great tips. rebuilt my first engine in 1971.

Use a boiler cleaning brush to clean the passages, they come in a variety of sizes and shapes

@kevinmcguire3715

Жыл бұрын

Gun supply stores have sort of rat tail brushes like that.

@jeffrogosz9995

Жыл бұрын

@@kevinmcguire3715 a little compressed air don’t hurt either,,

@markochs2495

7 ай бұрын

Goodson high pressure oil gallery cleaning system. The absolute best way

16:24 working in an engine shop almost 20yrs ago,I recall dirt track guys bringing us their blocks and having lightning holes all over the back of the bell housing area. That was obvious,I'm sure they did a bunch more to them.

@UncleTonysGarage

Жыл бұрын

Those holes are mostly used to help airflow through the bellhousing area

Thanks Tony for the tips, I have seen a few engines rebuilt and used to do VW air-cooled a few times for personal use and no one ever talked about the depth of detailing an engine block like you have except get it degreased and send it to the machine shop for a boil and inspection for any machining required. I heard a lot of b*tching from the machine shop mechanics/technicians about the uncleanliness of the blocks and heads not broken down brought to them, thinking it was "their" job to take care of our "ignorance" without affecting our costs of getting a rebuildable engine component back from them. This was when I brought stuff in as a favor to a friends truck and tractor repair service when I was going into town (big deal at the time because of the distance involved). Thanks for your time and efforts educating/learning folks stuff. BTW where have you been hiding Aunt Cathy? Have not seen her in a while...

Tony, you're the MAN! Thanks!

I start the old fashion way I put the block in a 44 gallon drum with a molasses mix and soak . Smokey Yunich sent hours getting the flashing of cylinders in the water jacket to stop detonation . My NEW oil pump was notchy to turn and the end float was wrong H.P , there was swarf on the ends of the drilling. From Down Under

@aaronblyth596

Жыл бұрын

Chris, what’s the ratio you use for your molasses bath. I’ve had great success with many rusted parts but never thought of it for a block. How long also do you leave it to soak. Cheers

@christophercullen4889

Жыл бұрын

@@aaronblyth596 Aaron i start mine at 20 to 1 and hang it on the engine hoist and bring it out every couple of days and check progress, it will have a black sludge on it pressure wash it off. Very ratio to suit time and corrosion it does not like oil grease , pressure wash first. It works well body panels with all the hard places to get to . Just experiment and you will see the results, not quick for a production shop. From Down Under

I decided to rebuild a 402 Chevy and when I started with the heads there was so much casting flash in the runners that it nearly touched in the middle!! I spent probably a solid 8 hours grinding on each head!

Great video Tony. This is the work that is the most important and the biggest PITA. No glamour or cool parts just hard technical dirty work. This is also the time to install oil restrictors on engines that need them. Machine shops really appreciate a well-prepared block. Most people just bring their greasy mess in and instantly contaminate all of our chemicals. We end up doing this work in your video, we charge for it. Lesson is, its sucks, it's not hard, do it yourself.

You mentioned the oil drain back holes. VERY important. Even for a stock engine. The one I rebuilt for a 71 Ford showed sings of lack of lubrication everywhere. I was told it was a common problem in certain blocks where poor casting prevented enough oil from returning to the pan fast enough. Even on a sock engine it can pose a problem.

The attention to details that will never be seen is what turns "fixing a problem" into something that is almost Holy.

The Way of the GEARHEAD MONK Now you understand... Well we can hope . Cool seeing so much of the block.. Thanks BOSS @∅

I just love your presentations my friend. I am sitting here right now with a bucket of popcorn and watching your explaination of engine block prep. Good stuff and true. O and one other thing, your teaching skills are the best I have ever send. NICE JOB. Thank you.

A twist drill with the tip ground flat works great for cleaning the crud out of bolt holes. Turn it by hand with a file handle or a pin vise to avoid damaging the threads. An old drill chuck makes a decent pin vise if you have one kicking around. You can even use locking pliers in a pinch

@MaxNafeHorsemanship

Жыл бұрын

A hand crank drill would work. I still remember when they were common.

There's something gratifying about grinding off that casting flash too. Thank you its nice to know the possible horrors that might happened if you didn't do it. I remember my first build and getting a head surfaced and the machine shop guy asked me if I wanted the bolt holes chamfered and I said yeah reluctantly thinking I was getting taken advantage of

Great stuff! This is engine builder's gold, very important, but simple and no cost. Just attention to detail and a little extra work.

It's so funny Uncle Tony how you described tapping the side of the block to knock out the rust because that's how you inspect and repair decking on a Navy Frigate, so cool how things relate and thanks for the memories!

Thanks for the tips. I knew a lot of what you said but your explanation of why was very interesting. Working with David Vizard eh? That alone shows your commitment to your work, if anyone didn't already see it. David's "Performance With Economy" was, and is, my go to book as reference or a teaching aid for up and coming enthusiasts.

This is a video I've been waiting for. I'm down to a short block with my 318 saving up some money and was thinking about all the cast flashing. Its funny because I was thinking while looking at it "I bet Uncle Tony grinds this stuff off." I may just have to really get down into my 318 and go the extra mile. I'm building a baby bottle rocket junior motor.

I use welding rods with points ground on one end and a 2"long 90deg bend on the other end to help hold onto it. Works great with a compressed air nozzle too.

A wealth of knowledge flowing from you. Your videos are awesome. I appreciate you.

Old school advice that's even more valid today!!!

You call it flash, I call it clings ons. My father was an aviation burr man. Can you guess how I was taught to remove flashing? Tony, as usual your class is informative and insightful. I was trained as a practical engineer, so happily I get a lot out of these sessions and sometimes even more than what you show! Incredible stuff, thanks so much and I love that you teach the young'uns things that would be forgotten otherwise.

This is why we're here, thank you!

I learned a lot in this video. I picked up a 429 for my old F-150 to swap into, I’m diving into a rebuild for the first time. Lots I didn’t even think about, thank you for the great info!

Thank you for the knowledge! Putting it to practice.

Well said and explained...the flex in even a cast iron engine block will find its weak points. The tip for tapping out large chunks...well done! Great tip on top threads, they will pop on ya.. Thanks Tony!

You can also use radiator picks on the water jackets. Auto parts stores will loan thread chasing kits. Those are machine clamp pads. You'll find them on the port floors on most heads, especially the vaunted W2 340 heads. It's really the only improvement possible on those as they are ready to race out of the box.

Very good video! You definitely taught me something new. I took top honors auto mechanics in High School, top honors in engineman school in the US Navy, stayed there till I retired. This is the first time I have ever had someone tell me to grind or file on a block or head. I definitely believe in what you are teaching here and I will definitely apply it in the future. Thank You I wish I had someone like you years ago. Thanks again! Ron

Great video, I will also take a file to the mains just to lightly chamfer the split on block and caps. I really like the way you go into great detail about the small things, some of which sometimes is very hard to put into words.

Can you make a video about demolition derby engines? The goal is to build an engine that can run without water for an hour.

Yes did a lot of blocks like that but never take the sharp edge off the mains and the bolt depth great video you can bet more than 1 head gasket let loose for the exact reason you showed.

Have seen at least 2 "B" engines that cracked the mains outward from the oil hole in the #4 block saddle, both engines were seriously overheated but no spun mains or even cooked bearings. Stock "C" body engines, and one was the notorious thick-webbing, large casting #230 blocks (late '71 cast date).

When I build a 390W I smoothed out the whole lifter valley, for better drain back.

And they make a chamfer cone for top of cylinder bore. It uses a cone shaped 80 grit sandpaper and you spin it with a drill. We did that to every cylinder while I was at Grooms engines.

Great video. Thanks Tony for going through the fine details and explaining why it's important.

I've mentioned the fire survivor 454 RV engine that I have on here. I've finally gotten into it but I'm in no hurry. But I've decided the direction that I'm going with it. Machine shop first. It went through a bad fire so it gets a hot bath. Then 30 over. Then the deck gets lowered. I'll take care of those stress points myself once I get it home. I'm selling the heads and going with square port aluminum heads and a roller kit. Adjustable timing gear with quick access cover. That's as far as I'm gonna plan for now. It may be a big block but it was in an RV. Which means it has a high deck. A torque monster basically. I'm looking for HP. I'm talking about it in here because Tony's channel has me wanting to tackle a project. Hell I might even video the process. With my trucking job it'll probably take me until well into the summer to finish it. Wish me luck.

@bcbloc02

Жыл бұрын

I thought only the 427 existed in the tall deck(10.2")? As far as I know no factory 454 are tall deck they are all 9.8"

@albertgaspar627

Жыл бұрын

@@bcbloc02 two things: first, Rats really love a .060 overbore to unshroud the valves. Two, the 366 and 427 were the only tall deck blocks in trucks (i believe the 572 crate engine uses a tall deck). If you can fit your finger between the side wings or ports of the water pump and the bottom of the cylinder head, you have a tall deck block (typically seen in commercial box trucks). If the water pump outlet is flush with the deck surface/bottom of the water pump, you have a standard deck height block.

The art of freehand and an experienced mind. Great episode.

Excellent content UT. Informative and educational as always. Thanks.😎👍

Just finished the break in on my stroker VW engine, not your style motor but I still watch your show and can relate all lot of your knowledge to this engine. and you helped inspire me to keep going. Thanks Tony.

1st off NEVER use A TAP to clean threads. ONLY use thread cleaners to clean threads! The difference is Taps are used for cutting and thread cleaners are used to just clean and straighten threads. I also like to polish out the lifter Valley, behind the timing chain area, the bottom of the block below the skirts, and around in the camshaft tunnel after all the grinding has been done. Then have it hot tanked bored etc and my last step before I install the cam bearings and test fit every is to tape the inside up when paint shouldn't be (lifter bores etc) and use Glyptal paint. It also makes oil guide right back to the pan.

@sometimesleela5947

Жыл бұрын

Yes, it's scary how much metal a tap removes, even from a clean thread.

@reaper20015

Жыл бұрын

Good advice on the taps. Yes, they can leave the holes a bit loose. If you're super low budget you can always slice a channel in some old bolts, make sure there are no burrs where the channel was cut, and use those to clean the threads. I have taps, thread chasing taps, and my old modified bolts for when I get nostalgic.

@albertgaspar627

Жыл бұрын

so, how does paint help "guide" hot pressurized oil when the surface becomes just as rough as before it was painted? and how do you avoid the paint insulating the heat transfer from block to the oil? shouldn't you be painting the crank and connecting rods and camshaft and heads to get this same benefit?

@eric63377

Жыл бұрын

@@albertgaspar627 It seals any pits etc and oil flows right off of it back down to the sump for faster oil return. I personally polish all that I can before I seal it with Glyptal red.

This info is eye opening and amazing to me. I love watching your channel you have a wealth of great info and I love that you are passing it on to us younger car guys........much respect.

Might be a really good idea to magnaflux the block before you do any of what you're talking about so you know it's a good block before you put all that effort into it. Cracks can hide anywhere, better to know ahead of time.

Tony....I did my first motor swap in 1979 and became a licensed A&P mechanic in 1983. I cannot COUNT the number of times I have heard idiots say "....oh man...that sh*t doesnt matter!!!! you're wasting your time doing all that...." and ya know what?? people have always been amazed that my cars have always been a bit faster and worked better and didnt BLOW UP when the other guys stuff blew sky high and they cried rivers because they spent BIG MONEY on bling-bling b0000lsheet and my 'plain jane' looking stuff got the job done BETTER. Over and OVER again, I have preached "IT'S ALL THE LITTLE THINGS THAT YOU DO THAT ADD UP TO THE BIG THING AT THE END OF THE DAY OR THE END OF THE 1320!!' TAKE THE TIME.....DO THE LITTLE THINGS!!!! IT IS WORTH IT at the end of the day....

Yes you're right Uncle Tony.😊

Good stuff, thanks for sharing!

Excited to see where this 318 goes! 300 horse? 350? Lots of limiting factors, but finding the ways around them will be neat to see! Good luck, Guys.

@williamweir2744

Жыл бұрын

Good video

@albertgaspar627

Жыл бұрын

built cheaply to make power below 6,500 rpm, i'll go with 300 hp. but build it for a high rpm use and OEM LA heads and 10:1 CR, i'll say 350 max

@ejgrant5191

Жыл бұрын

My buddy built a 3.90" bore 318 for a "Late Model" Dirt Track class that kind of had unlimited rules and it made over 580HP in his version....I'm sure even in Street Trim that DV can squeeze out 400+HP out of the lowly 318👍

@albertgaspar627

Жыл бұрын

@@ejgrant5191 I can believe it, but will it be streetable and run on 91 pump gas and have vacuum for brakes etc? UTG is not known for big dollar builds and he prefers torque over HP lately. but we'll see.

I learned here. TY, Tony.

Great video!! Learned a lot that I didn't know before. I bought a 89 Toyota DLX 4x4 3.0 engine 5speed engine not runnin did compression check 3 cylinders down so tore it down oil rings was stuck rod bearings rough so it's down to bare block now so I'm gonna clean it up as you say and go from there. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun enjoy

Great video! Thanks!

Very thorough work there! You are certainly putting the hours in to the thing. Will be following the project to see how it turns out.

great viedeo thanks Tony, I've already preped my 283 sbc block - it's amazing how much you can make a block better than factory in just a few days of grinding.

Great prep video mate 👌 thanks 🇭🇲

Great video Unk really enjoying them learning tons from you Thanks

Excellent video, clear precise information delivered in a professional interesting way. Subscribed.

I just got done doing a set of vortec heads for my build. Smoothing out casting junk, ports, and lapping the valves is a time consuming process, but so satisfying. The block is this weekends project

Awesome video Tony!!

Thank you Tony.

Awesome stuff UncleTony, the only thing you didn't mention was measuring the bolt lengths to make sure they're not stretched beyond safe limits.

UTG this was Excellent!

This is a great build. Will be going through my 318 soon. These videos will be a big help.

A very good tutorial, lots of good information. And you even used the correct term "core plugs' several times! Growing up in the Great Lakes area of North America (the manufacturing center of just about everything) I was 15 years old before I heard the term 'freeze plug' from a kid just up from the south. My classmates and even our shop teacher tried to explain that the 'core plugs' were to PLUG the holes left behind from the sand CORES used in the casting process. It was no use, we were wrong, he didn't believe us! And today, repair manuals, Summit and Jegs and just about everyone else buys into the freeze plug myth. Why? I dunno!

@wayneireland4802

Жыл бұрын

It's funny ha say that about core plugs here in a Australia we call them Welsh plugs.peace

@MrZdvy

Жыл бұрын

I was told that when the coolant freezes (if plain water was used instead of coolant/antifreeze) the ‘freeze’ plugs will pop out instead of the block getting cracked from the expanding water. That’s BS ofcourse because water will still expand in other areas.

@burthenry7740

Жыл бұрын

Yes! The holes are left over from the supports on the sand core. The core must be suspended inside the mold so molten metal can flow all around it. The holes are then used to empty the sand out of the casting.

@throckmorton8477

Жыл бұрын

@@wayneireland4802 My MGA uses slightly domed discs called Welch plugs according to the factory repair manual. Core plugs are shallow cup shaped. But whatever you call them, Welsh, Welch, core, soft or expansion plugs, It's fine by me! 😁

@burthenry7740

Жыл бұрын

Welsh (or is it Welch ?) plugs are used in the US also, in old Mopar hemis and probably many others. Think it's a name brand.

I have wondered about removing casting flash for years. I knew it might help take out weight that might help the block hold more heat. But I did not consider the stress risers.

Aaaand thank you UT for the CC! 😊

Block prep offers a Zen-like experience. Every minute you put into blueprinting the block pays back in satisfaction of effort. I always remove as much slag as possible, especially in valley vent holes. Using a burr and sanding roll to smooth out the oil passages at filter, lifter valley and even in head drain-backs should be standard practice.

Great attention to detail, UT...............

I’d love to have an engine stand and get to go through a block on my own time. Seems like therapy to me.

This is the case for blue printing and balancing, plus deburring, flashing cleanup and chamfering holes, perhaps, cross drilling.

@nicholascola7190

Жыл бұрын

I was gonna say that also. And possibly try to get creative and lighten the pistons and rods as much as you can while balancing them

@tobygathergood4990

Жыл бұрын

@@nicholascola7190 Yep. Shot peen and Polish the rod beams before balance too. If you want to get really serious, extrude hone the oil and coolant passages a little to remove any internal flashing and casting sand pockets. Can also paint the inside of the block with Glyptal.

Thanks Tony ! Can barely wait for the next video.

Great information brother 👍

Good Tips For Sure

Good video and many ways in comments on engine block prepping use what works for you. Files work and something grinding work. The key is the end results of cleaning up the engine block, heads, snowmobile jugs ever that Briggs and Stratton engine. Be careful when using a sand blaster. If you don't get sand all out it will destroy your rebuilt motor, my boss found out the hard way on his intake manifold.

It is true what you are saying. I feel this is one of the most important aspects of engine building. To end with greatness you must begin with it. There are a lot of engine assembler’s but builders not so much.

I just started prepping a second. When knocking out the core plugs all of them were tough to get loose except one. The punch hit the outside of cylinder 2 and left a knick in it. May be starting over.

You mentioned honing....was that just to aid in cylinder inspection? If honing points out flaws that lead to block rejection, better to do it before 20 hours of flashing and edge softening. If the block is not getting machined, would you suggest honing first and checking cylinders for roundness and taper?

Man you have a lot of great knowledge subscribed to your channel ill need it for when i build an engine

HOWdy U-T-G, Thanks for the BLOCK-PREP cleaning - Cleaning - CLEANING ... COOP ...

Good lesson for the youngster’s out there Tony’ right on MaN🤙🏻I’ve built a 355 small block Chevy blower motor with almost all the factory parts and rod’s radius ground motor was an animal strengthening everything and deburing is a must!!🇺🇸God Bless America and Grease Monkeys🦅

Great video. I'm glad I found your channel. From Ohio.

TONY!!! Have you ever stress relieved a block? Like say put it into an engine oven and bring it up to about 850F and then let it slowly cool over 12 to 24 hours? [the process is different for an aluminum block and its at lower temperatures]

@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542

Жыл бұрын

Side point: heating the block to 850F will pretty much break any rust in the jackets because of the massive difference in their coefficients of expansion. The rust will pop off. If you wanted to get stupid crazy, once you have gotten all your rust out, you can soak it with ammonia or urea and nitride the block, but one has to be careful because that causes GROWTH which can RE-stress the block all over again. But, still...putting 2 to 3 thousandths of an inch of nitrogen into the block will really help reduce RUST and WEAR.

@bcbloc02

Жыл бұрын

@@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542 How would one go about home nitriding a block?

@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542

Жыл бұрын

@@bcbloc02 If you do not have an oven designed for this specifically, you have 2 initial choices: 1, cough up the money for a pre-made one, or 2, get out your builder skills and some tools and build one yourself. You need to consider this first. While there are a lot of ready-made designs out there, both free and purchased plans, I do not know of any of them which incorporate aircrete, but I would most definitely advise using it between whatever your outer structure is, and your inner refractory lining, both for stability, keeping out drafts [oxygen] and insulation [without insulation your cost of operation goes way up, especially if you plan on nitriding, or carburizing any product]. You CAN 'carbo-nitride' products, but, since most 'cast iron' blocks are, in fact ultra high carbon iron [higher than 'steel'], adding carbon is not what you need at this point, obviously. While Nickasil is another option, its complex and time consuming, not to mention deals with a lot of highly toxic chemicals and extreme precision which can mess with some people. Let me follow that up with the fact that, with some machinery, nitriding too, can some times involve at least one very toxic chemical [cyanide in one scenario, and ammonia in another one], although if you go the urea route, you don't have that problem. The 3 major chemicals used for nitriding [there may be more, I am not sure, although I do eventually plan on experimenting with other nitrogen compounds such as melamine, hydrazine and metal azides] can be obtained, with varying levels of difficulty from various sources, locally and online, depending on where you live, and what laws apply. By nature, I would tend to avoid cyanide simply because it can kill kill a person so fast, whereas ammonia is many times safer, despite having its own hazards, and urea, while seemingly easy to use, can, in some situations, lead to a few potential hazards, so one should never be careless when handling these chemicals. From there, you are going to have to consider how large you can go, because an engine block, as you know, is no small object. You are going to need roughly the volume of a 4 foot cube worth of space for a nitridation oven large enough to hold a decent sized V-8 engine block. Inside the insulated, draft-proofed oven, you will need space to put a 'sealed-yet-vented' box that you put the engine block and the nitridation feedstock so that it can be either lowered in via hoist, or rolled in at ground level on wheels. If you can not get stainless steel, it would be best, where possible, to nickel plate your box, because otherwise its going to rot away as it is force oxidized on the outside, as well as it will warp and buckle as it grows, soaking up nitrogen from the inside. The reason I put 'sealed-yet'vented' is because you need to make certain all of the oxygen is extracted, but at the same time, you need a vent where the excess gas can escape so the box does not warp or rupture. The trick is to have a small [very small, actually, 1/8" or 1/6" pipe size with a stainless steel check valve] vent which you can both attach a vacuum pump to initially to extract the oxygen, and then, when it warms up, allows it to not only continue to exhaust any other oxygen you could not get, but release excess gas when the temps get high enough that the box could potentially warp or rupture. The thicker the walls on the box, the more resistant it is to deformation, although at the same time the slower it will heat. You need to have enough heat, over enough time, for the nitrogen to soak into the metal of your part to the desired/intended depths. But never forget, nitriding metal changes the geometry/dimensions of the initial part. This means, as the metal 'swells' / 'grows', your initial dimensions are going to be totally thrown off. If you are not prepared to deal with changes in material dimensions, it is best you not try this, because it can totally throw off your entire block so that things like valves, camshafts and freeze plugs no longer fit. And boring/grinding AFTER you nitride, well... It fully defeats your work. You will grind off the nitriding. Therefore, typically, engineers who plan for parts being nitrided will prepare by over-sizing the clearances of the part, so that when the nitridation is complete, the part ends up in the final intended size/clearances/fitment.

A drill with a steel cable in the chuck, fray the end of the cable and have at those water jackets, especially if they are that crusty helps too... just make sure to match the rotation of the drill to the winding of the cable

Great showing of block prep.!!!! Why don’t other shops do this???? You guys are an example of best practices on engine building!! Thanks. 👍👍👍

Tony have you ever thought about matching the cooling and oil drains in the head and block. I'm not talking big cuts but just cleaning the edges... So they can flow easier.

@legros731

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Cannot talk about this particular engine But most of the time the biggest restriction is the gasket itself especially if it's a MLS style gasket

My best friends owned a machine shop built stock engines to top fuel engines for over 35 year's they hot tanked and cleaned all cast iron with hot high pressure soap and water and compressed air