Oh wow! I had exactly the same issue with a F&P 7kg I sold to a customer. In the end they had lost all faith in me and I totally know the looks you referred to in your video! Atleast I can fix that dryer now! Thanks man!!

@HarperandKnowles

18 күн бұрын

You are very welcome! Thanks for commenting!

Been there and done that. I was in the biz for 9 years...done in 91. Much of what you work with is what I worked with...and a ton is completely different. I never ran into your problem, but what I did run into a time or two was when an element was nearly about to blow up, a thin spot in the wire would develop and which would heat the machine hotter, blowing the high limit. Always checked the element in the case of a high limit. My durned Kenmore just blew the thermal fuse and having checked for air restrictions, that'd be my next culprit. The original fuse lasted for 8 years or so. This one a few months. I'll add your discovery to the checklist. Super thanks!

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for this great comment. Thirty one years ago. Wow! I still see machines that people have that are that old. They made them to last back when you were in the business. Thanks for taking your time to watch my video, I appreciate your input. I’ll be sure to suspect the element whenever I find that fuse is blown.

@OvGraphics

2 жыл бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles In my book you ARE the man!

You did a good job, good follow up . Customer don't understand that sometimes problems are hard to find . Most office workers have absolutely no clue how a SPOON works but they are very quick saying you didn't fix it right the first time .

@HarperandKnowles

11 ай бұрын

Thank you for the kind comment. Thanks for watching too!

Thank you for sharing your time and experience, from a homeowner trying to fix a dryer.

@HarperandKnowles

5 ай бұрын

Glad to help. Thanks for watching!

As a Outside Facility tech for an ISP, yes when you think your meter tells you that its ok, sometimes its NOT ok. It may test OK then, but later when it rains and that water gets IN THE LINE, it either grounds out the copper or shorts out the copper, their service goes OUT .... Then we show up days later and the lines are "clean" because the water dried out. SO yea it makes us techs look bad and incompetant. And as i tell the customer, that water getting in the line over and over will create a corrosion bridge and at some point that corrosion will STAY there so we can catch it with the meter and find it, sad part is, its going to take a while ... Same situation here, your coils are testing FINE when cool, but when they got hot and expanded, they grounded out to the frame and used the frame to complete the circuit until the other sensor tripped. I am here because my dryer also blew the high limit thermostat, it was clean open so i changed it. Dryer ran good for 24 hrs then again today it stopped making heat again so now i have to take it apart again tomorrow and check that same sensor to see if it blew or maybe the same issue here that the coils are "touching" the metal frame ...

@HarperandKnowles

Ай бұрын

Thanks for sharing your experience and for watching too!

Exact same thing happened to me and your video helped me find it. Thanks a lot for sharing!

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

Glad it helped! Thanks for watching and for your kind comment too! Carry on!

Exact same thing happened to us! My father switched the fuse twice and when we looked at the element the frame was charred and the springs were bowed We almost said screw it and use copper threading to bypass the sensor and complete the circuit. I’m glad we didn’t though because the whole darn house would’ve probably burned down. Anyways cheers. Thank you for your help!

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, it’s never a good idea to bypass fuses. Thank you for watching my video!

Thank you, thank you! You helped me find the problem after I had replaced a bad heating element and then it started blowing the thermal fuse for the motor. Heating element was grounding. Thank you!!!

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

You're very welcome! I'm delighted to hear that my video could assist you in troubleshooting your issue. It's not always a straightforward process, but diagnosing and fixing problems like a grounding heating element can save you a lot of trouble. I'm thrilled to have been of help. Remember, I'm here for any further guidance you might need. Thanks for watching!"

Glad I found this channel. Thermal cut off keeps blowing. Everything always checks out when I use my meter. Going to inspect my heating element after work. It has to be the coils grounded out.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

Hey, Ronny, I’m glad you found us too! Good luck with your repair.

@JeannieEss

Жыл бұрын

I think it only shorts when it gets hot. I didn't really see any burn marks. I would just replace it (along with all the sensors) Amazon has a complete "kit"

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

That is very possible and replacing everything will probably fix it. Let us know how your repair goes. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for your honesty, I would call you for your help😊

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

I appreciate your kind words! I'm here to provide accurate and helpful information to help solve your appliance issues. Feel free to drop any more questions or concerns you might have in the future. Thanks for watching!

Great detective work, thanks for the teaching, sharing stuff like this makes good techs into, Great Techs.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

Hey, thanks for the compliment, and thanks for watching too!

Excellent share, my friend. Yes, real life doing repairs for a living.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind comment, and thanks for watching too.

Many thanks for this video! I had exactly this problem. I noticed that the heating element was glowing red hot after the dryer was on a while and now I realize it was because of the short to the case.

@HarperandKnowles

7 ай бұрын

I’m glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!

Good video, I figured this out on a dryer a while back. But I had some help.

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

Glad you figured it out. I have a GE dryer right now that is driving me nuts. I put a new control board on it, programmed it for type 1 which it is and checked that on numerous sources. Set it for E for electric which it is and it won’t heat. I can cycle through every diagnostic test on the board and all systems check good. It just will not heat when using any cycle selected. The original board had a relay bad that caused it to click off (pause) during operation. But that board heats. This is the second board I’ve tried, still no luck. Any ideas?

same thing was happening to me. this clip that was holding the coil broke causing the coil to sag and touch the housing leaving scorch marks and causing it to ground. thanks for the assist.

@HarperandKnowles

Ай бұрын

You are welcome. Thanks for watching!

Great video, I am having trouble with my Electrolux perfect steam. I had to take it apart to replace a seized blower. Putting it back together and running it on air only, no problem. Introducing low heat and within 10 seconds of trips the breaker.

@HarperandKnowles

Ай бұрын

This tells you that there is a dead short somewhere. Probably at the heating element very close to one of the spade plug connections. I hope you find it. Thanks for watching!

@flixsymmetry

Ай бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles Thanks. Thats what some of my research points to. Here I thought replacing the blower was going to be it. Wonder if I damaged something when I dismantled it 😆. The only error code was E 52

I have a Kenmore HE4 dryer intermittently overheating & blowing the thermal fuse. Replaced thermister even though it tested good. All other components are testing good as well. I hope your video here will answer my problem. It makes sense when nothing else has. Thank you!

@HarperandKnowles

9 ай бұрын

I hope it helps you too! Good luck and thanks for watching!

@robinnielsen3613

9 ай бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles After inspecting the heater element & could not find a potential problem, could the control board intermittently cause the dryer to overheat? I did check the heater relay on the control board. It was not stuck closed, could that relay intermittently get stuck?

@HarperandKnowles

9 ай бұрын

If all the components inside the machine test good and the element isn’t expanding and shorting to the frame then the control board is the culprit.

Like always super great stuff❗

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

Appreciate that! Thanks for watching.

Good video !!

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

Glad you enjoyed it

Very good info! Thanks

@HarperandKnowles

2 ай бұрын

Thank you and thanks for watching too!

All your videos are really helpful. Are you also able to post a tutorial video on how to adjust the analog timer on the commercial laundry?

@HarperandKnowles

8 ай бұрын

I may do that some day. As for now I think there is a metal ring, I forget the proper name for it, that is on the shaft of the timer. It should have a set screw on it. When you push the coin tray in it should pass under the device attached to the timer and you should set this ring so that the adjustable part will engage with the coin tray when it returns to the out position and turn the timer shaft to start the cycle. This is on the Whirlpool brand machines. Thanks for watching.

Going through this right now. Installed new element & cut off switches. Wondering if the new element needs to be replaced, or can the coils be adjusted.

@HarperandKnowles

9 күн бұрын

If they aren’t broken go ahead and adjust them. Thanks for watching!

@CARMENARDINO

9 күн бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles will do, thanks!

Hello, the heating eliminate went out so we bought a kit, but once we put everything back together it gets hot enough it blows the thermal fuse, I changed out all the Thermal Cutout Fuse, High Limit thermostat, and the Cycling thermostat. the vents are clear out side and inside the dryer vent is too, I never used the L250-80F fuse not sure if it suppose to go on top where the Thermal Cutout fuse goes are what. I have the 309F Thermal Fuse Cutout Up top on the heating eliminate. I have the High Limit going to the Heating Elements Terminals. and i have the L155-25f fuse going to the Cycling Thermostat.

@HarperandKnowles

4 ай бұрын

Your element is probably grounding out. It could be permanently grounded or only grounded when it heats up and expands. If you turn the timer to a heat cycle like timed dry and push start then after 30 seconds or so open the door and look inside at the vents. If you can see the element glowing through the vent it is grounded. You can also use a meat thermometer at the back where the exhaust is to check and see if your temperature will cycle on and off. Do this on a timed dry setting with no clothes in the tub. Thanks for watching!

I also have high limit thermal cut that keep blowing. I replace all the fuses and cycling thermostat and heating element. I even took the exhaust temperature and it's normal. I'm thinking it is the electrical current in the wire that is causing the fuse to blow. What do you think?

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

I would check that the airflow is good at the end of the dryer vent duct outside the home and that the heating element coils aren’t bowed out and maybe shorting to the frame when they heat and expand. If you are on a municipal power grid your voltages shouldn’t be a problem.

THANK YOU !!!

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

@HarperandKnowles

4 ай бұрын

You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!

Been having this issue for the past 3 days ... replaced the fuse twice and did the tap trick a few times ... going to check if coils are hitting tomorrow... if they are hitting the walls and i re adjust the coils , the fuse should stop tripping ??

@HarperandKnowles

Ай бұрын

A “new’ fuse should stop tripping if the vent is open and there’s no air restriction and the coils aren’t shorting. That tap trick is resetting a weakened fuse. Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much for this video saved me money and time many thanks

@HarperandKnowles

3 ай бұрын

You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!

@HarperandKnowles

3 ай бұрын

You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!

I'm having the same issue.. keep blowing thermal fuse.. checked the vent.. checked all the other components except the heating element... gonna try this tomorrow

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

I bet you’ll find the answer there. Look for burned spots on the shroud where the element may have touched.

@gennaro4941

Жыл бұрын

@Harper & Knowles Washer and Dryer Repair thanks for informative video..appreciate you

I have the nearly the exact same problem. In my case the dryer runs for 1 minute and trips the high limit thermostat. I already replaced the motor because previously it was only running about 20 minutes and then shutting down. Just replaced the cycling thermostat also. I already cleaned out my dryer duct line and verified I have good air flow. The only difference in my symptoms is that the high limit thermostat cuts off power to the dryer before the high limit fuse burns out. Any thoughts?

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

“The high limit thermostat cuts off power to the dryer”? Are you saying that the element cuts off or does the dryer motor cut off? If your dryer motor is stopping you have a motor problem. If your high limit thermostat (also call the working thermostat and located directly on the element) is tripping, change it. I’d put a whole new thermal cut off kit in it (all four components). Run it for a minute then open the door and look at the hot air inlet. If you see it glowing while the drum has stopped turning then your element is grounding to the frame. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching my friend!

Thats exactly whats happening with mine i believe. Limit switch failed again after replacing 2-3 weeks prior. Some black spots on element case. No visible cracks but the metal plate is warped and has some rust. Im thinking ill just replace that and then get the kit with the two limit switches and thermostat. I believe the timer is good

@HarperandKnowles

5 ай бұрын

If it’s cracked and warped it will probably fail soon. As far as the ohms reading on an element… I don’t even consider that, only that it has continuity. I should know the answer but I have forgotten over time. If I run across the answer I’ll post an update. Thanks for watching!

Whats a healthy ohm range on a element? Mines reading at 9.3. ive read theyre typically 20-50 but some can be 10+ TIA

@HarperandKnowles

5 ай бұрын

I don’t even consider the ohms range on element’s anymore. If the continuity checks good I won’t replace it. Thanks for watching!

Thanks

@HarperandKnowles

9 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching!

This is great for a electric dryer. what about a gas dryer that keep blowing the hi-limit thermal fuse? i have cleaned inside and out on the exhaust and checked the outside cover for good air flow. I'm having to reset it about every other load.

@HarperandKnowles

3 ай бұрын

It sounds as if the dryer isn't cycling on and off like it should. Change the cycling thermostat. Why not change them all while you're at it. Thanks for watching!

@sixpackguy3000

3 ай бұрын

Will do, thanks

Greetings and thanks for this post. How to replace Heater Element?? Which part needs to be removed in order to? This is the problem we are currently having and I actually saw the element spark and it keeps blowing thermal fuse.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

That is going to depend on what dryer you have. Whirlpool, Samsung...? You can browse through this playlist and perhaps find a video with a dryer similar to yours.kzread.info/dash/bejne/maOupJKwg5CtqJs.html You can also do a KZread search on how to change the element on your particular dryer too. if not send me your model number and I'll try to help you.

@CountryBlessingz

Жыл бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles Thanks so much for the response and resources.The videos are helpful 😊

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

@@CountryBlessingz 👍🏻

Easy to fix yourself without having to call anyone. Just buy the kit that includes the element and all new thermostats and fuses and change it all. Make sure you give everything a good cleaning while you're in there. Whole job should take about an hour.

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

That would do it. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment too!

@russellfinn2587

Жыл бұрын

Yep that's the way to go specially if you do it for a living as a retired hobbyist to try to avoid spending any money on parts but but he explained in his video has happened to me twice now so I definitely replace the thermostat which has been the problem and still try to get by with installing the old element

@thetruth7644

Жыл бұрын

Yeah that doesn’t always work though You might have a short, a dirty vent, a bad connection or wire causing as little as 1 ohm of electrical resistance in a 240 volt dryer will do it lots of times and remember a tco can blow from NOT producing enough heat but heating at the wrong times - there’s this thing called holding temperature and functioning temperature. Of course I hope you don’t have that problem but , ya know, it ain’t always gonna be so easy as throwing parts at it brother .😂

Hey! My Whirlpool Cabrio is continuously blowing the screw-in fuses that are in a disconnect between the dryer and the breaker. Why does this keep happening? Do I need to take the dryer apart and see if it’s doing what yours is doing?

@HarperandKnowles

11 ай бұрын

Hmmm, so you have a fuse box between the dryer and the circuit breaker??? I can’t imagine why. I think you need to hire an electrician to trouble shoot your home wiring. That doesn’t sound right. Your dryer is probably operating correctly but your home wiring needs to be updated. Thanks for watching!

Help! What could cause a washing machine start cap to overheat, crack and die. Is there a run relay in the motor that I can't see.?

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

Hi, yes there is a centrifugal switch just behind the shaft end where the water pump connects. (assuming a whirlpool product here) A start capacitor is designed to only stay in the circuit long enough to boost the motor RPM’s up to running speed. If it stays in the circuit too long it will overheat and fail. A motor that is weak and continuously clicks will also fail the capacitor. The clicking is the centrifugal switch going on and off. If the switch has failed I'd suggest replacing the motor. I hope this helps, thanks for watching.

@margaretbrewer8187

Жыл бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles thank you. I'm guessing my prob might be the motor switch. I'll test that first. If it is not faulty, I'd be better off just buying a new machine But thanks for your prompt reply. You surprised me!! 👍👍

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

The Missus tells me I'm full of surprises! Have a great day!

I have a Kenmore 700 series that keeps blowing the fuse. I have replaced all fuses and the element and the same thing keeps happening. I noticed the fan blade is a little bit wobbly but I cannot figure out what my issue is.

@HarperandKnowles

6 ай бұрын

I would need the model number to be certain but on the older units without a control board you can try this. Run the dryer without any clothes in it on the highest heat setting. Use an appropriately placarded thermometer and watch that the machine heats up to about 165 degrees Fahrenheit give or take a few degrees. If it continues to climb without cycling off and back soon about 140 degrees then either your element is grounding out or the cycling thermostat on the blower is defective. That is the only two things that can be happening. Now if this is the newer style machine with a circuit board that regulates the temperature then you will have to replace that board. Thanks for watching!

Hello, I have a gas dryer (Model Alliance AGS28AWF -or- Speedqueen) and still having a issue, maybe you can help me - the flame is turning on for about only 15 seconds and then turns off, so I ordered a High Limit Thermostat, Manufacturer Part Number 489P3 - this part is located near the flame - When I changed the part, it made no difference - same problem. I also changed the coils on the gas solenoid, still have the same problem. However when I bypass (jumper) the two wires together that was on the High limit Thermostat, the dryer work perfectly. I did check the original High Limit Thermostat with a meter and it reads (closed) ~0 ohms at room temp. Why does it not work when hooked up? What should I try? Also - I understand that this is a high limit temp switch, but what would cause this to open? Thanks

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, Tom. Speed queen isn’t a brand that is common in this area, and I have never worked on your particular model, but if I were a betting man I’d say that your flame detector/sensor was faulty. Most gas dryers I have worked on have one of these and if it doesn’t detect that the flame is lit it will shut off the gas supply soon after ignition. I found a speed queen part #D510213 that may or may not work on your machine. I hope this will help you with your repair. Thanks for watching!

@tomatexelon

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks -I will give it a try, but the unit works fine since I bypass the High Limit Switch. But I also don’t want to burn the house down from any over heating issues if it happens.

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

I did some further research and that should be the correct part number for your model.

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, bypassing those safety features is never a good idea. I’d order that part ASAP.

After all the heating elements fuse.thermostat replaced but still blows out my fuse.What should I do??this is 4th time to replace fuse..My Samsung dryer inside parts are all new one because I replaced almost whole parts even motor too..but fuse keeps blowing out now..somebody help….

@HarperandKnowles

Ай бұрын

If your Samsung dryer has a thermistor on the blower side you should change that too. Thanks for watching!

@yecho1020

Ай бұрын

Thank you for replying.I replaced thermostat also .I replaced all parts only left mother board.. In this case ,relay on mother computer board is problem??Because some KZreadr recommended in this case..only left mother board computer.please help…

@HarperandKnowles

Ай бұрын

Unfortunately, that would probably be the problem. I don't think it's a relay, but it has something to do with the temperature control on the control board. If you replace that, it will probably fix your problem. I recently had to do this with a model paired with a front-load washer.

@yecho1020

Ай бұрын

Thank you so much for help..I will replace computer control mother board.Hard time….

I am having a similar problem. I ordered the element and all the sensors. There is one clue that might diagnose this problem. I set the Whirlpool dryer to air fluff, and the exhaust was getting warm. Ill see if it is the element when I open it up (for the third time) tomorrow

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

It sounds like you're on the right track in diagnosing the problem with your Whirlpool dryer. If the exhaust is getting warm during the air fluff cycle, that suggests that there is still some heat being generated in the dryer even when it's not supposed to be heating. Excellent diagnostic work there! Very clever too. I hope others read this and learn from it, I know I sure did. Good luck with your repair and hopefully you'll be able to get your dryer working properly again soon!

@JeannieEss

Жыл бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles It was the element. It didn't look bad, but replacing (along with all the other sensors) it fix it. With further examination, it looks the center baffle was wrapped (away from the assemble) and was probably shorting, Not a great design if a thermal fuse on the heating element didn't blow it was the motor one causing the dryer to get even hotter

Yes homeowners always like to be unfriendly to service techs when situations like this and unfortunately for us we have to ride it out for the business sake...but in reality in our heads were sayin "Do some research on any product you plan on buyin instead of impulse buying junk from another country".

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

Well said my friend. Thanks for watching!

Really appreciate your story, but I'm not sure what to do. Same issue, but I bought a new coil (old one was burned up) and replaced everything as you did. Thermal fuse keep tripping again and again (I've replaced 3 times since new coil). Can't believe with a new coil it's grounding out, but I'll give it a look tomorrow. Very basic machine, Whirlpool WED4800BQ1.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

Try using a thermometer that reads at least 200 degrees Fahrenheit. With no clothes in it run it at high temperature and place the thermometer at the exhaust port. Somewhere between 155 and 170 you should hear the cycling thermostat trip. If your temperature keeps rising you have a grounding issue. I’ve also seen a rare cycling thermostat that trips but is still closed. I hope this helps with your repair. Thanks for watching.

@johnnixon

Жыл бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles thank you so much. Saw on another response where you mentioned if the heater coil stays on mid-cycle when you open the door, that's also a grounding issue? That's what's happening if I open door midcycle I see the orange from the coil staying on. Again, I replaced everything so I'm guessing it's the new coil still touching something?

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

@@johnnixon Yes, that indicates a grounding issue. Sometimes these are not obvious. It may even be a lead going to the element that has grounded, but that is extremely rare.

@johnnixon

Жыл бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles FOUND IT! BRAND NEW coil was grounded on itself. One of its loops were bent inward and resting on one of the supports inside the coil box. I bent it out so it wasn't touching and the continuity went away! Tried pushing it on and off and that was it! Just gotta get a new fuse and I should be in business. Nuts that a brand new coil would be bent up. Thank you sooo much for your help!!!

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

No problem I’m glad you found it. Relish in that feeling of accomplishment!

What would think it is if the high limit thermal fuse blows immediately when the start button is pressed

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

I would think that there is a direct short through the fuse. Something might be wired incorrectly. Think of the fuse as a switch acted upon by an external force. That force is the heat coming from the element. A predetermined temperature expands a concave plate inside the fuse to the point that it pops or curves in the opposite direction and opens a set of points connecting the two wires. If this fuse is blowing immediately, then something isn't wired right. It will take a minute or so before the element can heat up enough to cause it to blow that fast. I hope this helps you. Thanks for watching!

I will inspect the heating element, I am having a similar issue, but I am not blowing the high heat fuse. I can check the temperature at the vent, and see what it tells me. I am almost thinking my problem is in the control board

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

I hope your repair goes well. Thanks for watching!

In mine my thermal fuse blows..heater element its new.

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

Take the exhaust hose off the back, and with NO clothes in the dryer select, a cycle for high heat and timed dry. Test the air output with a thermometer that reads at least 200 degrees F. Your machine should cycle off when it reaches around 155 degrees F, (140 for GE, Frigidaire). It may go as high as 160 - 163 before it starts to cool, then It should cycle back on at about 130 degrees, give or take five degrees. If your machine is hotter, try replacing the cycling thermostat (the one with four prongs). It's best to change all the thermal cutoff components while you're changing them. If you still have problems after this, you probably have an airflow problem. Check out these other videos for more ideas. And thanks for watching! Good luck with your repair. kzread.info/dash/bejne/X5yIrdGtfMabcqQ.html kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZXp71bydn7CakrA.html

So did you have to buy a whole new housing unit

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

I’m not exactly sure what you are asking but I’m assuming you mean the element already strung on its ceramic standoffs and contained in its metal housing as opposed to just the element coil unstrung. If so, yep that’s what I had to do, but the cost of getting the whole element unit is negligible compared to the coils only. Thanks for the comment!

THANKS SAME ISSUE

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

Glad my video was of help to you. Thanks for watching!

Yep, This must be the culprit on my Whirlpool also, replaced thermostats, cleaned everything, reworked the vent hose but kept blowing fuses even though the element always checked out fine. Will be replacing that next, good or bad. If that doesn't work, it goes to the dump.

@HarperandKnowles

7 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching!

Im having a similar issue but my question to you is this. After the dryer shut down would it restart on its own after it cooled down? This is an awesome video btw.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

The only time a dryer would restart on its own is if it has a wrinkle shield or wrinkle guard option in the drying cycle. In this case it might appear that the dryer is starting by itself but it is normal for this to occur several times after the drying cycle completes to prevent your clothes from wrinkling. If your motor’s thermal switch activates due to a motor problem the dryer will shut off but after the motor windings cool it will restart after you push the start switch, usually with an audible motor hum. In this case your motor is failing and needs to be replaced. A blown thermal cutoff fuse on the element side won’t prevent the dryer from starting but it won’t heat. A blown thermal fuse on the blower side will prevent the dryer from starting on an electric dryer but not on a gas dryer. I hope I’ve answered your question. Thanks for watching!

@eddiesampson2177

Жыл бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles Let me ask in another way, mine shuts down after 20 minutes and appears a little hot and I dont have to do anything but give it time to cool off and it will restart just by pushing start button again. I have replaced all fuses, just cant pin point. Thanks in advance for any help.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

Your motor is failing and will soon quit working all together. It will have to be replaced. It probably hums loudly when starting. This is a symptom of a bad motor. Sometimes the hum isn’t present but most of the time it is. There is a thermal protection switch on the motor that is kicking out once the windings heat up beyond a safe temperature. There may also be a burning smell associated with a motor going bad.

@eddiesampson2177

Жыл бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles Is there a test I can do on it or should I just order one?

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

I think a dryer motor pulls about 30 amps. You could check that if you have one of those multimeters with a clamp on it to test that sort of thing. Or you could make a test cord, check this video for that: Test and Run Dryer Motors | Make A Dryer Motor Tester kzread.info/dash/bejne/nXisq9Ztf7OolKg.html . I usually take the drum out of the dryer, hook a test cord to the motor and run it for about 30 minutes. Turn it off and immediately try to restart it. If it won’t restart or it quits during the test period I replace the motor. But from what you are telling me I’m willing to bet you have a bad motor. If your dryer has an electronic control board that could be the issue too. You didn’t say what kind of dryer you have.

I have 2 questions about a Whirlpool dryer LE5800XSW3 (almost 32 years old!): #1 - Can you tell me how in the world to get the heating element out of the housing!? In this older model, the housing is one, solid piece of metal. The heating element has to be slid out of the housing from the bottom. The problem is that there isn't enough room to slide it out. The bottom of the dryer is in the way. #2 - I think that the thermostat heater has gone bad. It is WHIRLPOOL #WP61894 - THERMOSTAT HTR. I cannot find this part ANYWHERE! Is there any way it can be replaced with a different part? Thanks for any and all help.

@nlc464

Жыл бұрын

I forgot to mention that I think maybe I'm experiencing the problem you are describing in this video. I keep replacing the high limit thermostat, and it keeps blowing.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

Oh yeah, that's an old one there. Anyway, you will have to remove the back panel and you will see the element shroud resting on two teeth at the bottom. You may have to pop the top cover up and reach between the drum bulkhead and the cabinet case and remove the screw that attaches a strap at the top of the element shroud that secures it to the drum bulkhead. The top of the shroud slips inside the bulkhead so after removing that strap wiggle the shroud until it comes out and lift the element shroud off the two teeth at the bottom. Then you should be able to figure it out from there. Thanks for watching! Good luck with your repair!

@nlc464

Жыл бұрын

S@@HarperandKnowles Thank you SO MUCH for RESPONDING SO QUICKLY! I thought I had to remove the entire housing but I could find no videos showing how to do it. I will try what you said. In the meantime, I literally just finished replacing the old high limit thermostat after watching a video on how to reset it by hitting it on the back. It worked!

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

I’d replace it, that’s a weak component after it blows once. You caught me home for lunch and I was doing something on the computer when your comment popped up. I’m not usually so quick!

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

If you replace them all and a new element too you shouldn’t have anymore problems inside the back cover. A motor, some rollers and a timer and you’ve completely rebuilt it! Ha!

Me, again...I am trying to remove the cabinet case, but I can't get it to budge! I've removed all screws and wires going to it. Do you think it won't come loose from the drum bulkhead because it is so old? Do I need to use more force to "break" it loose? Any and all help is much appreciated! (I purchased a new heating element along with the heat cutoff and thermostat. I sure don't want to have to send them back.)

@nlc464

11 ай бұрын

Nevermind...I GOT IT OUT!!! Different question...the heater box is discolored (whitish). I am assuming it is due to the heat over the years. Will this affect anything, or should I try to replace the heater box?

@HarperandKnowles

11 ай бұрын

It should be fine. I wouldn’t replace it.

@nlc464

11 ай бұрын

SUCCESS! I just fired it up, and the dryer is nice and 🔥. Glowing that beautiful red/orange glow!!!🤗 Thanks for all your help!

@HarperandKnowles

11 ай бұрын

@@nlc464 glad your repair went well. Congrats!

@nlc464

11 ай бұрын

I have one more question. I have an older home that only takes the older 4-prong dryer plug. Is it safe to replace a newer 3-prong dryer cord with a 4-prong replacement cord? (This is for an older style Whirlpool different than the one I just fixed.)

Wow! I really thought you were going to give me the answer because everything has been happening to me in that exact same way. However, I had already replaced the coil at the first step along with all the other parts so that can’t be it. I’ve been through several thermistors and thermal fuse replacements. It just keeps overheating and then tripping/blowing. Sigh…

@HarperandKnowles

11 ай бұрын

So, if your machine has a thermistor it isn’t the machine like in the video. Without knowing your model I can only guess that you may have a machine with a circuit board and not an analog timer. In this case you may have a faulty control board and you are watching the wrong video. If this is the case you’ll have to replace the faulty board. I hope this is the correct answer for your particular problem . Like I said, without being able to actually diagnose your problem myself all I can give you is my best guess. Thanks for watching!

@dougmoore7424

11 ай бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles you are incredible for replying and replying so fast! I greatly appreciate this. I have a whirlpool duet dryer wed9200sq1. You are correct it’s not the same. I’ll check out the other videos! Thanks!

@HarperandKnowles

11 ай бұрын

Pull your control board out of the machine and remove it from the white plastic case. Examine the back for a burned solder point on back of a relay. If it is melted out re-solder that point and it will work for you again.

@dougmoore7424

11 ай бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles thank you. I’ll try that. They no longer service dryers where I live so I’m trying to do this myself to save from having to buy a whole new dryer. Although sadly, if it is the board, they seem to be very expensive! Thank you sir!

@dougmoore7424

11 ай бұрын

I’m so thankful for this response. I opened up the control board as u suggested and can see something completely fried on it. If even melted the wiring harness attached. Looks like I can buy a new control board but not seeing any wire harness replacement options. Do you know of any?

I'm having a problem with my kenmore 90 series dryer it stopped drying it was just blowing cool air opened the bottom of my panel noticed the coils weren't glowing when running I took out the thermal cutoff slammed it on the ground to reset it I started the dryer and the coils started glowing and hot air was coming out the vent the next day I go to my nearest appliance parts store get a thermal cutoff and thermostat I install both the coils start glowing I put everything back together. While at work today I get a call saying the dryer isn't drying the clothes I get home start checking stuff for continuity everything checks out except the new thermal cutoff I'm not getting any continuity from it I remove it slam it check it now I'm getting continuity install it again turn the dryer on coils start glowing I wait a bit and notice that after 1-3 minutes the coils stop glowing. What can my problem be? I checked continuity on the heating element and I'm getting resistance I have no clue what to do anymore.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

It sounds like you may be having the exact problem that this video you commented on is describing. Watch the whole video, you might find your answer. Thanks for watching.

@dan4091

Жыл бұрын

Might also want to check the exhaust vent is not blocked with lint

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

@@dan4091 Yeah, that could cause it, but a blocked vent usually blows the blower side fuse first. I’m suspecting an intermittent ground of the element. What do you think?

@rodm2345

Жыл бұрын

@Harper & Knowles Washer and Dryer Repair It sounds very similar to what I've got going on right now. Are the coils/heating element supposed to be on during the whole heating cycle or do they turn on and off?

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

@@rodm2345 The element should cycle off when the exhaust temperature reaches the neighborhood of 155 degrees. With your dryer empty and set to high heat use a thermometer to monitor the exhaust heat. Around 155 degrees you should hear the cycling thermostat click off and your temperature should start to fall in a few seconds. When it falls to about 135 or so it will cycle back on and the temperature will begin to rise again. If your temperature does not cycle on and off then you probably have a bad cycling thermostat or your element is expanding and making contact with the frame somewhere. If the temperature continues to rise past 175 or more, open the door and look to see if your element continues to glow after the motor stops. If so it’s your element grounding, if not, change the cycling thermostat.

What could be the burning smell the heating coil and thermostat was just replaced the dryer works just smelling like burnt plastic HELP!!!

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

Plastic huh? I’d look at my dryer cord where it goes into the wall socket. A bad receptacle can cause the prongs to get hot and melt the plug. Also check where it screws into the power lug on the dryer. You may have to remove the cover to see in there. Other than that I don’t have a clue. Thanks for watching! Let me know if you find your problem.

I know that feeling 100%

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching my friend!

I found it was the timer shorting out. I took the timer apart and could clearly see a spark bridge happening.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

File those points and make sure they aren’t stuck to the plastic and you should be good to go. Thanks for watching!

If the element is cheap, and/or the dryer is older, probably best to just replace the element. The additional cost probably doesn't drive the price up much vs the total cost of a service call like this.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

You are probably right. Thanks for watching.

@Ohmypeehole

6 ай бұрын

I had this happen with a new element. The housing needs to be bigger or the coils need to be less. Changed all the thermostats and the thermistor. I did this last night because what better day than Christmas day. Not the fault of any technician if the element is designed poorly.

@HarperandKnowles

6 ай бұрын

Thanks for sharing!

Where do you buy your parts from

@HarperandKnowles

6 ай бұрын

I source my parts from many different places. I will buy in bulk the parts I use most often when I find good discounts. A lot of my parts come from Amazon. If you establish a business account with them you get business only pricing and free prime shipping if you have a prime account. Use their American Express business card to get the best cash back on purchases and upload your reseller tax info issued by your state for tax free purchasing. You can do the same with other suppliers but you’ll have to meet a minimum order from free shipping. Thanks for watching!

@mozzde4675

6 ай бұрын

@@HarperandKnowlesok thx last question so i need a thermometer on my dryer can buy any thermometer that fits??? Or do I have to buy the exact model component??

@HarperandKnowles

6 ай бұрын

Here is a link to the thermometer I use in the field. amzn.to/3v7Og6V. You can also buy a cheap meat thermometer that you can clip to the exhaust outlet.

@mozzde4675

6 ай бұрын

I’m sorry I dumb. I meant thermistor i I just use any thermistor

@HarperandKnowles

6 ай бұрын

Use your model number and then the part for a search string “model# thermistor” that should get you a variety of retailers.

I read in a repair book that said a blown fuse indicates that there could be something wrong with the motor

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

That's correct! A blown fuse can indeed indicate a problem with the motor in a dryer. When the motor experiences a malfunction or overload, it can cause the blower wheel to move less air and the airstream will become slower and hotter causing the fuse to blow as a protective measure. This is a rare occurrence. It's important to investigate the cause of the blown fuse and address any underlying motor issues to ensure proper functionality of the appliance. Thank you for sharing your knowledge from the repair book and thanks for watching!

Here’s a real test for all you diagnostic guys out there. I have a basic Maytag electric dryer less than 5 years old that keeps blowing the fuse at the fusebox. The dryer is getting power and it lights off just fine and gets hot. It runs for approx 10-15 mins then blows the breaker. I have watched approx 12 videos including this one on how to diagnose the various switches, thermistor, thermostat and parts inside the back service panel. I have used the multimeter to test all those parts and I am getting continuity on everything. What could be causing this thing to blow the breaker???

@HarperandKnowles

4 күн бұрын

Is it a gas dryer?

@HarperandKnowles

4 күн бұрын

I'd change the breaker.

@Fresh-tw7ev

4 күн бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles it’s an electric. I also checked the service panel for the electric connection and it’s tested fine at 240. Yes I’m thinking it might be a breaker.

@HarperandKnowles

4 күн бұрын

I'd change the breaker. If its coming on and running awhile its probably the breaker or a problem with the receptical or home wiring.

Wow this happens all the time wish I wouldnt known this sooner thanks!

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad you found the video helpful! It's always great to learn something new that can help prevent issues like the dryer's thermal fuse blowing. Now that you know about the heating element possibly grounding to the frame, you'll be better prepared to handle this situation in the future. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask. Thanks for watching my channel! I hope you can find my other content just as valuable.

I got the same problem

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

I’m sorry to hear that you’re having problems with your dryer. I hope this video helped. Thanks for watching.

Replacing those parts only temporary fix not the solution. There is an air flow problem or a failing thermistor which is causing the overheating of the element which is why the metal holding the coils are warped. Ohm out the thermistor and verify sufficient air flow. Always check air flow at the lint screen not outside . Tech 6yrs good luck

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

The dryer in this video doesn't have a thermistor, only thermostats and thermal fuses. Checking the airflow at the exhaust is the better option because on this model if you remove the lint filter, located on top of the machine, you still have the inlet inside the dryer drum which means the blower fan will be drawing air from two different sources. The airflow at the exhaust will be accurate if all seals are in place and the lint filter is inserted. A more accurate check of airflow would be at the element entry, I suppose, but much harder to determine. Checking the temperature at the exhaust to see if the temperature cycles on and off near the rated temperature of the cycling thermostat will guarantee that all components are functioning properly. Thanks for watching!

Americas quality control is Awsome! LOL

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching!

👍👋🙏

@HarperandKnowles

10 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching!

The customer was right you did half measure thinking its an easy fix without checking the elements for sign of warping or metal contact. That whole kit cost only $26 in amazon if you care to do it right.

@HarperandKnowles

10 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching!

Cheap made thermostats are the problem.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

I think you may be right! Thanks for watching Countryman.

@countryman4691

Жыл бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles The high limit thermostat that had a black top are much better than the white top ones.

That woman looks creepy.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

Ha! Yes, she does. Thanks for watching.

I hope you refunded the parts that you charged her for that she did not need from a bad diagnosis

@HarperandKnowles

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, I make it a habit to never cheat anyone. Thanks for watching!

Sorry, but charging the customer for a new heating element after a failed repair is just bad business. As a professional, I charge for my visit, diagnostics and parts. If my repair fails, then I failed to diagnose the problem, which comes at the cost of inconvenience to my customer. I eat the cost of my time and parts to make it right with the customer. This is why my customers are willing to wait weeks for me to service them.

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

I’ll consider that in the future. Thanks for the advise and thanks for watching too!

@raymckinnon2596

Жыл бұрын

Been in service for 40 years. Customers should expect the odd weird one, tech shouldn't have to give parts for free. If you diagnose every job and not get a odd one they you have been lucky or maybe they just called someone else?

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

YEAH, what he said! Thanks Ray!

Thanks. I had this exact thing happen to a dryer i sold but couldnt figure it out and after high limit number 2 i just swapped out the machine

@HarperandKnowles

Жыл бұрын

I hope you didn't scrap out your defective dryer. I think I did that a couple times before I figured it out. Thanks for watching.

@KushDragon420

Жыл бұрын

@@HarperandKnowles yeah i did, i actually have more washers and dryers than i can possibly repair so it wasnt a big deal but i always prefer to know why somthing doesnt work rather than resign myself to being defeated by it again.