Excellent in-depth look at these fuses - thanks. 309F on the top / thermal fuse is actually 309 degrees Fahrenheit- the max temperature before the fuse blows. A common part number for it is 3977393 - but there are others. If this keeps blowing, the vent with holes on the back wall of the inside of the drum may be blocked - usually by a dryer sheet, or the lint screen may have too much residue clogging the screen, also from the waxy substance on dryer sheets, or the exhaust vent tube inside the back of the dryer on the left, when you face it may be clogged with years of lint, or the fan behind that same tube may not be working, or the heating element coil may be curving or expanding enough to touch a wall of its own metal housing after it gets really hot - and causing it to ground. I replaced the fuse a couple of times and it was blowing nice and hot - at first. If the timer works and the exhaust tube inside the back of the dryer is clean and clear - and the exhaust tubing that goes outside is also clear, then there are only about 5 parts inside the back to replace and a kit is about $30. You just need a 1/4 nut driver and maybe a flat head screwdriver to push the wire contacts off of the blades of the fuses. And… always take good photos before removing parts so you know where wires and other things go.

I truly enjoyed the lesson that you gave. You make a complicated design SIMPLE. THANKS AGAIN YOU A GREAT TEACH.

Excellent! Well done sir. Now I now how the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat function /work. Thanks.

@eformance

3 жыл бұрын

Glad it helped

Excellent presentation thanks for taking the time to explain

@eformance

3 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you so much. This video helped me out so much and you were so detailed and explained everything

@eformance

3 жыл бұрын

I'm glad my video helped you!

Interesting stuff! Thanks for the video. I finally noticed that your logo isn't just an "X" and is actually two sigmas - I like it!

Well done very informative..thank you sir for sharing your knowledge..

@eformance

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Hey buddy interesting for this to come up now. My Dryer just caught fire last week. My wife came running into the shop yelling for me and I grabbed the extinguisher to put it out. When I got to it I could not see where it was on fire at first, after a minute a saw lil flame poke out of the piece of perforated metal where the heat enters so I put it out. I was surprised she saw it and it's a damn good thing did cause she was about to run errands and would have been out in shop for hours, pretty scary. I thought for sure the lint tube would have been clogged even though the tray gets cleaned every load, but it was completely clear so I'm guessing something failed in dryer. Could have been very very bad if she hadn't had noticed it. Thanks for the vid.

@robertmanning3922

4 жыл бұрын

Steve just Steve If your dryer was newer than I would expect a fault and I would hope that you would have reported it to a consumer reporting agency. A fire in that location? Where the hot air enters the dryer. Interesting. Did anyone ever tear the machine apart to see how this happened?

I know I’m late to this video but really good information thanks for video. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

@eformance

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Thanks so much for the info

@eformance

3 жыл бұрын

Your welcome, glad I could help

Great Video. Thank you.

@eformance

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks, glad you enjoyed!

Good video !

I've tried everything, vents all clean with plenty of ventilation, replaced thermal switches and fuses, replaced heating element, but the thermal fuse on heating Element housing still keeps blowing, what else is left? Its either the dump or bypass the fuse, because except for the fuse blowing, it works perfectly. Oh, and it's old so it does not have a control board.

Thanks sir for the video. Any insight on mine? The red wire is burned loose from the terminal where it connects to the element and the high limit thermostat was blown apart. Dryers runs but didn’t have heat.

@eformance

2 жыл бұрын

Blown apart? That sounds like major over temp or a power surge. What can also happen is the terminal can get dirty with oxides and not make a good connection, which makes it get hot and melt.

Thank u for explanation very good, can u tell me what is the cause keep breaking my terminal fuse on my Samsung dryer I checked everything fine but it works only 4-6 loads. Thank u

@eformance

3 жыл бұрын

There is another person with the same problem with a Samsung dryer, have a look at that comment thread.

Nice..

I have my dryer vented and running underneath my mobile home. It is brick underpened and I've had it that way since we moved there ( new home) in 2001. I'm guessing that's fine to run it like that vs it going to the outside/outside?? Over the past maybe 5 years a few times I've replaced a few fuses. Once my sister in law had it jam packed stuffed, once the machine ran for a long time and the tube wasn't spinning ( funny because last year I replaced the belt for that issue and it was working fine, and I can't remember what the 3rd time was. But I've replaced the flat white long fuse I believe that was the overload of the dryer, then the thermal twice, then another time was the one that is a set to the thermal. I never replaced several at one time though because it ohmed out fine.

@eformance

2 жыл бұрын

The best approach is to have a smooth pipe to reduce friction, the longer the run and the harder it is to blow through. A smooth pipe is also easier to clean with a pipe cleaner.

what can be wrong I check all the fuses thermostat and they continuity in my Kenmore Elite but heat for 5 seconds then turn off again,what I need to check next,thank for your answer

@eformance

4 жыл бұрын

Is the blower fan coming on? If the blower fan doesn't blow past the heater grid then it will overhead and shutoff. Does the whole machine shut off or does it just stop heating? It's also possible the controller/knob assembly is defective and can't pass the current for more than 5 seconds before it fails.

@jorgedeleon9685

4 жыл бұрын

@@eformance everything works but the heater element shuts off

What can you fix on the dryer to prevent the thermal fuse from continuously Poppin ? I’ve changed 4 in the last month

@eformance

5 жыл бұрын

Your dryer duct is probably obstructed with lint. The air isn't able to flow past the heating element fast enough because of the obstruction, so the element gets too hot. The same thing would happen to a hair dryer if was clogged with lint.

@Dodgechallengersixpack

4 жыл бұрын

Ive got the same thing happening, but my lint has been thoroughly cleaned out of all areas. Any other ideas? Start switch? Timer?

@jessicahighfield5582

4 жыл бұрын

Check your heating element for continuity! Bad heating element/touching the casing can cause that! A faulty contol board can too if the relay had went out. Good luck!

Can a switch be defective so the dryer runs hot all of the time? The low heat setting does not seem to effect the heat output. Is there a way to test the thermal switch by using a hair dryer. Or is it all just a waste of time and for six bucks just order the new parts. I think I’ve answered my own question.

@GraceAppliance

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Robert, You can test the cycling thermostat with a lighter and an ohm meter. Unplug the dryer. Uninstall the cycling thermostat, test the two terminals for continuity and you should read about .08ohm. If so, then hold a lighter to the metal portion of the thermostat until you hear an audible click. Then, take the same ohm reading and you should get an OL or open reading at that point. Now, this will let you know that the thermostat is infact opening, but isn't telling you at exactly what temperature it has opened at. In the instance that the dryer is getting too hot on all settings, it makes me immediately suspect a shorted heating element to ground. To test this, you will (with the dryer unplugged) remove the incoming power wires to your two terminals for the heating element. Neither of these terminals on the heater should touch ground (i.e. have continuity with ground). If either of these pins has continuity between the pin and the housing of the element, that is a shorted element and this would stay on full time any time the timer is in the on position. It effectively bypasses the cycling thermostat and thus gets too hot. Let me know if you have any questions! Andy

@robertmanning3922

4 жыл бұрын

GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos thanks GE.

By the way, the limit tstat is not what normally turns the heating element on and off, that would be the thermistor in the exhaust duct. The High limit switch opens if the air temp gets higher than normal and shuts the element off until the air temp in the heating element duct cools down 50 degrees lower, than it automatically resets. If you have not cleaned your ducts in a while, you can wear the hi limit out.

@eformance

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the info.

I think they are both bimetallic switches. The hi limit switch just has a reset temperature of like -32 F degrees, so the reset temp is way outside a normal range. I tried resetting one by the smack method and couldn’t get it to do it no matter how hard. It wasn’t until I froze it that I was able to reset it with a light tap. With an air duster can I bet I could get it to reset without impact.

@eformance

3 жыл бұрын

The purpose of bi-metallic switches is to "reset" at room temperature, requiring sub-zero temps to re-establish the original shape is probably not likely to be a bi-metallic dome. It's more likely that the dome has a very low normalizing temperature, such that it relaxes at relatively low values. Bi-metallic switches work by virtue of the stress concentrations being different on both surfaces of the material, because the materials expand at different rates. I imagine the materials in the thermal fuse are an alloy of multiple metals, but not bi-metallic. I'm guessing a bronze alloy is most likely.

@TheVintageEngineer

3 жыл бұрын

@@eformance when I drilled into one it looked copper/bronzish in color.

What if the heating element glows bright orange but dryer does not turn. What fuse has blown ??

@eformance

3 жыл бұрын

That would be caused by one of the following: belt came off, broken belt, failed motor, or failed switch. Older dryers have a mechanical switch that runs everything, new dryers are computer controlled. If the dryer tub spins very easily, then the problem is probably with the belt. Diagnosing the rest of the problems requires using a volt meter to check if the motor is getting power. If the motor gets power but doesn't spin, then the motor has failed. If the motor doesn't get power, then it's probably the main control board or switch. There might be an internal fuse, but to find it you need to open the dryer up and find the wiring diagram they put inside. Usually the top surface of the dryer (folding surface) is clipped on and can be pried up with a screw driver, they probably taped the wiring diagram on the bottom of that or one of the sides.

My Amana dryer thermal fuse keeps blowing,I can only dry maybe 2 loads.I cant find the issue.Please help

@eformance

2 жыл бұрын

Make sure your dryer duct is clean and clear, if there is lint buildup in the duct or the filter, it can cause these symptoms. It is common to need to swab/brush out the dryer duct after a number of years, especially if the lint screen isn't cleaned every load.

Good explanation. I don't know whats going on with my dryer though, I have a Samsung electric dryer and the thermal fuse keeps blowing out. I've changed the fuse 3 times this month. It works for a few minutes but then it stops and when i test for continuity it doesnt read anything. I though it coudlve been the lint but i cleaned it out thouroughly and even connected a new duct with no obstruction leading directly to the backyard door and it still blew. I already replaced the the heating element a few months ago as well as the thermostat. Any ideas what it could possibly be???

@eformance

4 жыл бұрын

Check your blower fan, if the fan isn't working then air won't be drawn across the element, causing it to overheat.

@sergiolaguardia4329

4 жыл бұрын

@@eformance Thanks for responding! The blower fan is working. I changed the fuse this morning and it worked for like an hour but it blew again. When i replaced the thermal fuse it didnt come with the bracket, so i removed the old one with rivet and when i put the new fuse in i used little screws (i dont have rivet gun). Could that be why it blew out these last two times? Or could it be the drum felt seal isn't tight enough? Thanks again for your help.

@eformance

4 жыл бұрын

@@sergiolaguardia4329 Did you replace the thermal limit switch too? These switches come in pairs, one is the thermal limit switch and acts as a thermostat to regulate the heat, the other is the thermal fuse, only used when the limit switch fails to open or there isn't enough air flow. If your blower fan is before the heating element, blowing across it, then leaks are probably not an issue. If the blower fan is in the dryer duct, drawing air through the drum, then any air leaks around the drum will prevent adequate airflow across the heating element.

@sergiolaguardia4329

4 жыл бұрын

@@eformance yes i replaced the heating element a few months ago because it cracked. then a few weeks ago i replaced the thermostat and the thermal fuse a couple times this month. the thermostat isnt failing. its just the fuse. im going to try to replace the fuse again along with the thermistor and replace the worn out felt.

@haileyjohnson7606

3 жыл бұрын

Not sure if you’ll see this but did you ever figure out the problem?

When i opened my dryer and checked all the fuse, all are working but the thermal fuse is blown out. I used copper wire to see whats going on, and the copperwire overheated and blasted instantly. I assumed that the fuse is getting overpowered electricity. I change the fuse 20 times but all blown in 20 sec. Please find a solution. Additional information, every part of dryer is working perfectly fine. I also watched a lots of videos, and follow through like checking the controls or cleaning the motor, but all are working fine.

@eformance

2 жыл бұрын

It sounds like your heating element is shorted and needs to be replaced. A piece of decent sized copper wire shouldn't melt instantly unless there is something wrong with the heating element. I recommend removing the cover on the heating element and visually inspecting it for any melted wire or black spots where it shorted against something.

Interesting! I tested & replaced the thermal fuse - my dryer worked! About 2 days later it stopped.. the fuse again! Thankfully on Amazon they came in sets of 2. Before installing the 2nd one I watched your video.. went outside & thought I cleaned the tube in the wall (a ton of yuck came out) I couldn’t quite reach as far as I wanted. But my daughter & I installed the new fuse, turned the dryer on and I ran outside to check & air was coming out outside. An hour later the fuse blew again! Ugh.. is it possible it’s still partially clogged? Something else? Or I need a whole new dryer? It’s just my daughter & I and thanks to your video (so far) I haven’t had to call a repairman and it’s been something 2 girls can do!!

@eformance

4 жыл бұрын

Glad to hear you tackle these things yourself! The heater heats the air as it's blown into the dryer, the filter screen catches lint as the air leaves the dryer. You can test if the problem is with the heating or the duct by holding down the door interlock button while the door is open, then run the dryer. If the fuse doesn't trip, you still have something blocking the duct. If it trips, the limit switch is probably stuck closed. The limit switch is the thermostat, the fuse is there if the limit switch gets stuck closed or the duct is blocked. Many of the thermal switch kits come with a thermal fuse and a limit switch, I think it's a good idea to replace both together.

@kellykoster971

4 жыл бұрын

After I got your reply (thank you by the way) I decided since I had gone that far I might as well go further and I took the heating element out and it was 3/4 black and burnt! On Amazon I bought a 5 piece kit with the thermostat and everything. It came yesterday - we did it all ourselves - the dryer has been going all day! Yay! We feel like we accomplished something huge!!! Thank you to your video and your help! Kelly

@eformance

4 жыл бұрын

@@kellykoster971 Awesome! Another appliance saved from the heap! The only appliances I've come across that couldn't be repaired are front loading washing machines. In one case the seal went bad and the bearing failed catastrophically (the little balls actually split in 2). In the other case the board was obsolete and the cost to replace the board was $100 for a 10yo washer. Since that was the *second* and the first had the aforementioned bearing failure, I figured it had a good run and recycled it. Refrigerators are another appliance that is typically easy to repair and keep running for a long time.

@sandmansimms5704

3 жыл бұрын

@@kellykoster971 so the heating element itself was faulty and therefore blowing the fuse as a safety?

@officerkrupke4966

2 жыл бұрын

@@sandmansimms5704 No, her heating element was probably shorting to ground and remaining on continuously until the fuse blew.

Why is it blowing the breaker then I checked my contacts on on my fuse and I'm getting continuity through it all but it keeps on blowing the breaker

@eformance

2 жыл бұрын

It's possible the breaker is faulty or your dryer has a short which is causing it to draw too much power. My dryer has a display and you turn the dryer on before starting a cycle, does your dryer have a display that lights up when it is turned on but a drying cycle is not running? It's cheaper to have the breaker replaced than the dryer, so that is a good place to start. If it pops the breaker after being replaced, then you have a short in the dryer and it needs to be repaired.

My fuse keeps tripping and causes element to turn off, I replaced both it and the other one on my Samsung. Can't figure out what the problem is.

@eformance

4 жыл бұрын

If the thermal fuse keeps tripping, there are really only 3 possible causes: 1) bad thermal fuse 2) bad limit switch 3) obstruction somewhere in the air path of the dryer. The thermal fuse and limit switch are typically available as a kit for around $5 for most dryers. I'm not certain if Samsung uses the typical parts like a Whirpool or other domestic brand.

@matthewlarue1883

4 жыл бұрын

@@eformance thank you, I am gonna go back into the dryer and look for an obstruction, then try it again. Hopefully it will be a simple obstruction. Appreciate the tip.

@eluniversodelecuador

4 жыл бұрын

Weak air flow outside the outlet box is DEFINITELY A BLOWN FUSE.

Ok I have a GE dryer, my dryer doesn’t turn on, no power and no light inside dryer, just completely dead. Could it be the thermal fuse ?

@eformance

3 жыл бұрын

It's unlikely to be the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is only used in the heater electrical path. In your case it's more likely there is a regular fuse or breaker that is blown. The door light is usually just a simple switch connected to the bulb, so if that isn't coming on then I don't think any power is coming in to the dryer. Best to check the home electrical wiring first (fuse panel/breaker box).

@808Affliction

3 жыл бұрын

@@eformance yeah the outlet works. I plugged my washer in it and it works fine.

@808Affliction

3 жыл бұрын

@@eformance btw mines is Gas GE dryer.

@eformance

3 жыл бұрын

@@808Affliction What's the model number, perhaps I can download the service manual and take a look.

@808Affliction

3 жыл бұрын

@@eformance thank you, going to check now.

I was looking at a dryer not heating for a friend also; every single switch and fuse tested good, element good, contacts good, finally found one of the contacts in the timer control knob on the panel was bad; took it apart, sanded the contacts and been working ever since. That one frustrated me a bit. Took a while to find!

@eformance

4 жыл бұрын

Good Job!

I wish you show the pieces you where talking about

@eformance

4 жыл бұрын

Sorry, I didn't have one to show, my friend needed it to order a replacement.

👍

I’ve went through 4 fuses, and I believe the problem was my vent was kinked and did not allow for superior all flow I.e exhaust

@eformance

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, that is a good point. A restriction in the exhaust vent, due to lint or a kink, will reduce the flow and increase the temperature of the heating element. The elements are naturally self-limiting to a point, they are referred to a PTC or positive temperature coefficient heaters. This is what is used in space heaters, etc. The problem is that the heat is confined rather than allowed to radiate, so the dryer gets too hot and blows the the thermal fuse.

@calenbolo

3 жыл бұрын

@@eformance when I get home I’ll grab some dikes and trim the vent for a straight path of air flow, luckily I ordered a 6 pack of fuses for trial and error lol

@eformance

3 жыл бұрын

@@calenbolo A good diagnostic for this is to simply pull the dryer away from the wall and let it run without the vent connected. If there are no problems then the vent is the most likely culprit. Also check that the flap on the end of the vent is moving freely.

@calenbolo

3 жыл бұрын

@@eformance sure thing I will, luckily my 12 V 1/4 Milwaukee nut driver makes it easy work

"pink pink, pink pink" 🤯🤯🤯 Hahaha

Lol 309F is not a part # its a temperature Bud ;)

You are killing our business .

@eformance

4 жыл бұрын

As a whole? Most people want to know but don't have the confidence to dig into wiring, so they'll pay a repair tech.

@jessicahighfield5582

4 жыл бұрын

That's not cool he's trying to help people. 🤷