Ty for a clear, direct, short tutorial.

Soy milk is a binder not a mordant. It’s use are in the pre-prep after scouring and before mordanting. Its mostly used for cellulose fibres not so much for natural silk, leather wool etc it’s to help those fibres absorb the natural Color better and bind them to the fabric better. Soy milk is the protein source that adds the protein to the structure of the cellulose fibres. It is a step I wouldn’t skip for longer lasting results and higher quality print/intensified colour outcome. The dry scoured fabric is soaked in soy milk for anywhere from a few hrs however I use 24-48hrs in a sealed or covered dark container. Fabric is then squeezed out or put on spin cycle in machine. Hung out in shade until bone dry. Then repeat this step from 3-6x some dyers will do more. Then when fabric is bone dry and after several layers of soy milk treatment the fabric is stored in plastic sealed container for up to 3months (it can be used 2-3 weeks afterward but it’s best to leave for at least a month). This is the “curing time” and the end results of the color fastness and intensity on cellulose is worth all the fussing around. Soy milk is a protein and cellulose fibres like cotton, linen, ramie etc lack the protein structure that silk, leather and wool fibres have and that is why these fabrics are the most easiest to dye with because you can cut out a lot of preparation steps. The soy milk acts as a binder for the plant material to print better because the cellose fibres have already absorbed as much protein as possible and can behave more like silk or wool when dyeing the uptake of natural dyes natural Color or eco prints adhere to the pre treated fabrics. Also scouring like you have done doesn’t remove all the oils, coatings, dirt etc from the fabric - the trier and trusted method most experienced fibre artists, eco printers plant dyers use are actually boiling/simmering the fabric in washing soda for at least an hour than letting it cool and squeezing or run it through spin cycle. Some ppl will repeat this process to be thorough. Also some of those bundles looked “burnt” or overcooked which means especially with cottons and linens the fibres can go “crispy” and break or get holes in those spots or they will tear easily etc. I know you have your bundles sit for only 1 day but consider leaving them at least a week in a sealed container. The prints in this video will fade faster and plant dyes naturally will fade however by prepping the fabric better it ensures the fabrics have longer lasting effects and a Color fastness that is just as good as chemical. I’ve got eco printed garments I’ve dyed many years ago and still vibrant. Aftercare of fabric should be mentioned as well, using very very mild soap the best detergent is natures. Soap wort plant or any sapponis plant that gives a mild lather is the best. Perhaps I’m a bit serious here because many ppl sell their plant dyed plant printer creations including me and ensuring quality longer lasting products is important to me as my creations aren’t on a lower price margin. Anyway just wanted to give some more information not trying to be eco print police.

@WildcraftDyeing

Жыл бұрын

This is great! I’m very happy for folks to share more info on my channel, especially to share their expertise and advice when it comes from solid experience (I read your comment this way). My main focus is definitely yarn and fabric is it’s own thing. Interestedly, this video is my most popular video by a factor of 10. Even knowing that, I still chose to focus on yarn because I love working with it so much. I did one video on shibori techniques on silk using mushroom dyes but that was clearly with shibori/natural dye masters and expertise. Always feel free to comment on videos - all the good info!

@Msromoscreations

Ай бұрын

Wow, sounds like you should have a video tutorial too! so much knowledge. I'm concerned about the amount of soy milk. That sounds like so much! I'm new to all of this and am trying not to make a huge impact on the environment. I'd wonder the long term difference with time for folks who dont use soy milk.

Your explanation is so easy to understand! Thank you so much for sharing your technique!!

@WildcraftDyeing

Жыл бұрын

Of course! I love making these videos. Thanks so much!

So much fun, and some great tips and inspiration. Thanks!

@WildcraftDyeing

2 жыл бұрын

Awesome to hear! Let me know if there are dyes/dyeing techniques you’d like to see another video on. :)

Lichen subscribe 😂 I love it!

@WildcraftDyeing

2 жыл бұрын

Hahaha, glad you’re ….lichen it 🤣

So beautifully created video

@WildcraftDyeing

Жыл бұрын

Aww, thank you so much!

I love it

Very nice 👍

@WildcraftDyeing

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Thank you for sharing!

@WildcraftDyeing

Жыл бұрын

Pleasure! Dyeing is so fun! :)

Thank you for sharing.It 's very nice I have subscribed your channel.

@WildcraftDyeing

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much! :)

Hi,I'm sorry,I can't write english well . thank you very much for your excellent education. I didn't understand in the first part,what chemical did you dip on the fabric?❤❤

@WildcraftDyeing

Жыл бұрын

Of course - for animal fibers (wool, silk, alpaca, etc.) you want to use alum (aluminum potassium sulfate). If you want to ecoprint on plant fiber (cotton, linen, etc.) you want to use potassium acetate, often in combination with a tannin. Does this help?

Beautiful 😊 if making clothes can it be put in Washing machine or would you recomment hsndwash only?

@WildcraftDyeing

Жыл бұрын

Depending on the fabric, you can wash cotton and linen on delicate but silk should be by hand.

Is there a difference between an aluminum alloy pot and pure aluminum

@WildcraftDyeing

4 ай бұрын

Good questions - it’s been my experience that both pure aluminum and aluminium alloy pots provide essentially identical results (though I could see an alloy which uses high amounts of iron, copper, tin or titanium could shift that). The biggest issue to avoid is dyeing in iron pots (including enameled canning pots) as these will dramatically shift colours darker or can lead to splotchy and uneven results. Personally, I use large aluminum pots and standard aluminum alloy pots and find the results identical. Does this help? Let me know if I haven’t addressed any aspect of your question.

@christinasperos160

4 ай бұрын

@@WildcraftDyeing excellent answer. Thanks for taking the time.

@WildcraftDyeing

4 ай бұрын

My pleasure! :)

You didn't show the folding and tying process.

@WildcraftDyeing

Жыл бұрын

That’s a great point! The first fold very much depends on the design you’re going for. I.e., whether you want to fold it on the diagonal or half-way along either edge. Regardless though, after that first fold, you can fold once more on itself and then roll it up like a sleeping bag. It should look basically like a tight burrito when you’re done. For tying up, I’d suggest white cotton or linen twine (something that won’t transfer dye) and wrap the twine a few times around to ensure it won’t unwrap while heating and finish off with a square knot. Let me know if I should go into any more depth at each stage.

How much time steem to clothes

@WildcraftDyeing

Жыл бұрын

Hello, sorry somehow I missed this question. Simmer at least one hour and I’d leave it over night to really set your colours.

@kashan0029

Жыл бұрын

@@WildcraftDyeing thanks

WHY ANNOYING LOUD MUSIC IN THE BACK GROUND?

No entiendo el idioma 😞😭

@WildcraftDyeing

Жыл бұрын

¡Oh, no! ¿Cómo puedo ayudar? ¿Puede traducir el texto al español? :(