Nice, another adchannel

@PatrickRemington

2 ай бұрын

?? What are you talking about this video is not advertising anything.

@emameyer

2 ай бұрын

@@PatrickRemington bitter people are everywhere. ignore them your video was great maybe add some more specs details

@neocallimastix

2 ай бұрын

@@PatrickRemington I think he is talking about the constant pop up adds. But thats youtube.. Thanks for the great video!! How is the rocket exchanger going? :)

@robsonferreiradacosta1273

24 күн бұрын

Show! Belo trabalho!👏👏👏

A great tip for keeping the copper pipe from kinking is to use regular fine table salt. It can be hard to remove the sand as it compacts. With salt you can flush it out, since it’s water soluble, just connect your garden hose, and turn it up, just a little bit, and kick back and enjoy a beer, while the water works for you 👍🏽

@susieshaw2910

2 ай бұрын

That’s brilliant 👍

@nicodejager8644

Ай бұрын

In plumbing work, especially in normally cold environments, I would anneal the copper pipe shortly before bending (using a pipe bender, or by hand (in case of soft rolled copper). Annealing : Either lay it in the sun (Europe and Northern climates are usually quite cold inside a room / workshop). I'm south of the eqautor, so 20 - 30 minutes in the sun, will almost require gloves to handle copper pipe.. Using a blow torch to just raise the temperature by 20 deg C, about one meter at a time, then bend / coil, will help. The salt inside the pipe, for concentric coils, is also a great tip, that I have not tried yet, but have been advised to try.

@charlesrock7770

Ай бұрын

Fill with water and freeze then wrap it up

@nicodejager8644

Ай бұрын

@@charlesrock7770, I would never bend a frozen pipe. Whether it will run under pressure or even under atmospheric pressure. Bending cold pipes may cause cracking, on inside and outside of the bend, both sides of the pipe wall. Sand or salt, and annealing to slightly above room temp / ambient (max about 35 - 45°C), will ease the bending effort, and make the metal not susceptible to cracking or folds, or losing shape.

@PLAX84

Ай бұрын

Just use a pvc pipe or anything round thats will be good enough no kinds im a Plumber i work with coils or a tubing bender

As the water heats up it will naturally move up in the coil. It might be enough to circulate the water without the need for the pump.

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

Yeah, I definitely want to test this and see how well it works.

@petemack3076

3 ай бұрын

​​​@@lewishamilton9577 You need a big heat differential for that. Which you will eventually get, of course. But boiling water in the tube is 30% less efficient than pumping it: (550-212) ÷ (550-70) = 70%. So 30% longer to heat and more woid. But for use of grid it's a good choice. But it isn't convection. It's a primitive steam engine, like a drip coffee maker.

@a420dro

3 ай бұрын

pumping is better and eats just 30w watts to circulate enough to warm all rooms, but with check valves it's easy to create emergency bypass for securing the flow without electricity. Mine works not enough to feed system, but enough to not explode and to temper the tank through the night. So starting the heating at morning is faster as the water is warm already

@FadeToEvil

2 ай бұрын

Only if you want a steam generator. If you need a water heater, you have to use the pump.

@joshwalker5605

Ай бұрын

@@FadeToEvil I dont know about something this small but I've seen more than a few redneck hot tubs that work just fine using convection only, no pump.

Love the removable heat exchange, that solves a lot of problems.

Always heat the copper pipe first with an open flame to soften it . Makes it easier the form around the pipe.

I love seeing how DIY projects can solve problems when the SHTF happens. 🤔me thinks you deserve A++.

Typically you enter cold water at the bottom to not fight natural convection. Cool build. I am starting a build video for a large stainless rocket stove with integrated water jacket. Also I suggest pushing MIG. You will have better results. Cheers

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

You would if you were doing a passive setup. Just did a video on this. The pump is moving water so fast that it doesn't matter but my thinking was that it should enter at the top (coldest) and travel down the 10ft of coil to the bottom (hottest) and then exit back to the Jerry can. It honestly probably doesn't matter that much at all tho

@zaftighippo5544

2 ай бұрын

Bonus of using a bump and going coldest to hottest at the bottom is the hottest water is closest to the fire. Fish gills and many heat exchangers, both operate this way.

@mazdamaniac4643

2 ай бұрын

Aye, that way if the water in the coil starts to boil, it increases convection so it doesn't run away too quickly. It essentially self-regulates up to a point. Forcing water through it with a pump ends up being less about transferring useful heat into water and more about cooling the flue gas down, because the water just doesn't have a lot of time to absorb heat energy any more. You could do it with a variable-speed temp-sensing pump setup, but that's little better than natural convection. It's like putting a crazy water pump on your car, it can actually make the engine overheat, because the coolant in the engine is going through it too fast for it to absorb anything.

@wernerviehhauser94

2 ай бұрын

You use opposite medium flow directions to maximise heat transfer, but I would assume (without doing the math) that in this case, it does not really matter since it's not built for max efficiency anyway. Therefore, cold water going in on top is not a design flaw. Also, natural convection should be negligible. Tube is long and thin, height difference is small, which results in low convective forces and high friction.

@Eric-gi9kg

Ай бұрын

​@PatrickRemington I, too thought you were backwards. Though using it for showering it makes sense. Pump moves the water fast enough to not get to hot.. giving a perfect shower water temperature. The reverse would be better if you were Storing hot water. You would want it to be screaming hot.

Awesome project! Only on suggestion....Connect the the botom conector instead of the top one as inlet of cold water. Will be less likely to have any air trapped and the cooper will be safely coolled by liquid.

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

Yeah, I normally would have the pump running before lighting the stove that way the copper never gets hot before the water hits it. I was thinking the water should go from The top (coolest) down to the hottest then exit.

@scarwn

3 ай бұрын

@@PatrickRemington Doing as Nicolas said could offer to use the heat motion to circulate the water instead of the pump may be ? Of course unless the tank is higher than the rocket you'd still need to use the pump at first. What do you think ? Also, tell me if I'm wrong, but for me a rocket is the fact that wood burn 2 times (wood and gaz included) at almost 100%, I don't think that's the case here which make your stove a stove and not a rocket stove, am I wrong ? Thanks a lot, you're the king

@nicolasciancio8050

3 ай бұрын

@@PatrickRemington Thanks for the reply. Well as heat exchangers go. The best efficiencie is with cross circulation... The coldest agaist the hottest. The biggest the temp diff, the better for exchange.

@jamesmckee4039

3 ай бұрын

No need for a pump if you run the inlet low and the outlet high. Thermosiphon will move the water with no mechanical means being used! Clever idea just the same 😊

@thehimself4056

3 ай бұрын

I was thinking the same thing. And Sleve the copper away from direct flame 🔥 contact.

Love the rocket stove with the adaptation of the water / heat exchanger. Awesome build. Will cone in handy in many ways.

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

Thank you! I appreciate that!

Awesome! I had a very similar idea for a harvested heat water heater living off grid about a decade ago, SO damn satisfying to see the same general idea actually built.

I would use air hose quick connections. We use air hose at work with water and works great.

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

I thought about using those i figure if it works for air it would work for water

I’ve been waiting for this video since I saw the short. I really enjoy my electronic pump shower can. I commented there how I used the concept but modified to my needs. I thought I might build something similar like a box with the copper coil and handle that I can drop into a fire pit or place on the large camp stove. A little more portable since space is a premium! Heat exchanger box. I will probably add an insulated bag over my can to speed up the heating increase the retention of heat developed. Thanks for all the time you put in to share your ideas and finished product.

With a little bit of tinkering for personal customization, you got the perfect off grid prepper device. Great video.

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

I agree! Just made a video on how to make it wo without a pump

Fantastic job Patrick... Thanks for taking us along ! Liked/Subscribed a long time ago ! *FJB too !*

Excellent project. Thank you for sharing.

That's fantastic! Now all ya need to do is scale it up with a bigger stove, tubing and cheap or free water heater with a blown regulator or something to make enough water for a nice, long shower! Or maybe for a hillbilly hot tub!

This showers feels awfully warm, its taking off my skin !

@melvance7281

3 ай бұрын

There are devices that limit the max temp of the water coming out

Hot water naturally wants to rise so connect cold to the bottom tube. Otherwise tidy solution 👍

Cool design.

I'm not sure i would change anything. that's another awesome idea i will have to try in the future!

Excellent work dude! I use a circular saw with the Diablo blade you mentioned when working with big sheets of 6061 aluminum works great 👨‍🏭

nice, i like how you separated the copper pipe so you can revome it, versatile :)

I definitely like this better than the round style you built afterwards. I have it on my future or potential projects list now...thanks for the work man!!! 😀

The basic concept sounds like something I would otherwise like try a build of in a few years, after an operation-use review. ...I will hold off on watching. It's awesome to know that true efficiency (societally) is starting occur.

I'm 65 and my dad told me about using sand to bend copper when I was a young boy in the 1960s

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

Yeah! I had my doubts as first because I couldn’t find a good video of anyone doing it but it works incredibly well.

@Faller31

3 ай бұрын

you can use water too and freeze it.

I build the same thing 6 years ago but with a ammo can . I have 5 daughters and my wife’s number one complaint while camping was the shower. The one we had was that useless bag thing. Though, putting it next to the fire with sand covering it with hot rocks is a great way to warm those up when theres not enough sun to do the job . So I took a 40mm can I had and have removable plates with coiled copper just like you have here . Normally just used steam and gravity for water pressure. Though I really like your 12v pump . Gonna borrow that idea for ours .

That is some nice engineering.

Love it, can't wait for more. 👍

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

Thank you!

Use convection to your advantage and put the supply in the bottom and the heat out the top.And a help circulation

Well done mate, a gem as usual.

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

Thanks man! How have y’all been?

Nice build!

My only suggestion comes at the end with the cross brace for cooking pans. Since your longest can is 10" you should use the same simple cross technique on top but having the longer bars reaching further out will allow for a more stable cook top for your pans. Very cool portable unit!

This is an absolutely awesome idea! An hour is a long time to have to run your pump. You know, if you put a fitting down about 6 inches from the bottom of your Jerry Can and reverse your flow of water, you don't need to use the pump. Cold water from the bottom of the van goes into the lower fitting of the exchanger. As the water heats it rises and goes out the top of the exchanger to the top of the can. The water will flow naturally. The biggest problem with heating water this way is you have to have a way to introduce cold water into the hot, in the shower line to prevent getting scalded. Also need to make sure you have a steam pop off valve on the can. As for your quick connects use an E3F3-B and a E3F3-B pressure washer coupler and nipple set.

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

Thanks for the ideas! The pump only ran for about 30min total but only needed about 20min didn't even use half the battery. I am going to see how well passive heat exchange would work. I think it will be slower.

@timhickman9911

3 ай бұрын

@@PatrickRemington it will start slower, but I. The long run it will actually heat quicker because the water will not have to cycle repeatedly through the exchanger. With passive, you will need to prime your lines, but that should be easy enough by making sure your water level is higher in the jug than the top of the coil pack.

@scottc8152

3 ай бұрын

I would say just get a smaller pump that pumps fewer GPM, and uses less battery. What size battery was used?

@timhickman9911

3 ай бұрын

@@scottc8152 Thermal dynamics precludes the need for a pump.

@SpringfieldGuy

2 ай бұрын

Exactly right, we did that back in the '60's in Explorer Scouts with a SS milk can with a detachable 1/2" pipe which was routed into the campfire.

Excelente vìdeo mis saludos cordiales de Argentina!!

Perfect 👍, it's automatically siphon by heat

good idea , tanks a lot

The burn chamber needs the pipes to have a small flange around the inside, on the TOP section, so the soot stays INSIDE, and can't leak out when it runs down the walls. The 'female' needs to be on the bottom, and the 'male' on the top, of every dividing seam, like the stovepipes are installed. So the top pipe slides INSIDE the bottom pipe. Stovepipes are installed this way, too, so the creosote doesn't run out of the pipe and out on the floor. We learned this the hard way, and our stove pad is STILL stained, because the stuff won't come off. I wonder if a person could make a stone or brick filled metal box, with water in it, and have it enclosed, and heat it outside with the stove, same as the water, and then it could serve as a tent heater for sleeping? The lid should be removable to replace brick or stones, so it can be lightweight for travelling. And maybe a clamp on stove pipe that could be bent to exit out a window? Is there such a thing as a bendable, like 'vent' pipe that could bear the heat? I know dryer vent pipe bends this way, but may not be thick enough and could melt? Like a stainless, collapsible pipe with a screen over the top end to catch the sparks. (Yes, having my coffee now. Lol.) Could make a four legged, free-standing pole, like one of those made to hold a Bible or book, with a half circle metal piece on top to hold that collapsible stove pipe? Maybe with a couple screw clamps on the sides to hold the pipe in place. This way, it could be used almost anywhere in a bind. And does anyone sell anything like this anywhere and if not, how much would it cost to have you make one for me?

@kellycarver2500

3 ай бұрын

As TimHickman says, the water should pump itself from the fire heating the water. There are videos of heating water with wood, that show this amazing event. Yours may even work that way without any pump, have you tried it?

This is the first time I’ve ever seen hot water defing gravity Hot water only rises kind regards Sean

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

I'm using a 12v 2.5 gpm pump to cycle the water. This isn't passive heat exchange

@akghound

3 ай бұрын

@@PatrickRemington why pump against the natural convection flow?

@matikaevur6299

3 ай бұрын

With enough force applied, even chicken can enter the beehive .. (Sorry, does not translate well :)

Nice work brother! Love it🎉

well done

You have your lines reversed. Great build.

@akghound

3 ай бұрын

I didn't watch the video but he has it backwards on the thumbnail. hot water out needs to be higher than cold water in.

@bparker86

Ай бұрын

​@@akghoundyour right he still has it that way. He defends it too lol

Copper pipe should not be exposed to flame. Stack should be made with round tube. Smaller tube wrap with copper then larger on outside. Lasts way longer

Ditch the pump, convection is your friend 👍

Excellent,

You look and sound like a rocket stove expert to me. Cool stuff.

@PatrickRemington

28 күн бұрын

Haha I’m not at all.. but thanks haha

Wow this blew my mind what a wonderful build. On your detachable parts at the bottom you could leave a inch and a half legth from the bottom of the coil and and your stove on the outer serface weld a inch and a half cage around it and plug the detachables in like vacuum cleaner detachable heads

@PatrickRemington

Ай бұрын

Thank you! Yes, I like where your heads at!

So neat...

If you put a one-way valve on the lower pipe of the heat exchange and prime the unit you won't need the 12v pump till it's time to shower as the water heats it will drawer through and flow out the top back into the tank drrawering more cool water into the system.

nice build Patrick.

@PatrickRemington

2 ай бұрын

Thanks man!

Nice idea 📈❤️👍

If you want to keep water hot, consider using a cooler. You can make enormous sous vide steaks that way.

two suggestions : Use pressurized tank like they use on backpack sprayers to have a shower .. or secondary pumped air tank. That way you don't need electricity. And water inlets to your can/tank at bottom and top for natural circulation. EDT. And should next prohibition era hit .. you only need second module for cooling ;) For quality product there is lot off applied physic and chemistry to observe and follow but still, still is a still . . (even for water purification)

yep good idea, next level is radiator for tent and heated water madress

Awesome

The latch you installed around 20:30 could've been installed differently so it does create a pinching fit. You need to attach the latch and hook slightly further apart so they pull more on eachother when pressing the latch down. With time and use it'll relax the metal and the fit won't be as tight, but bending the metal back is easy with some apprentice hammering skills.

Thank you!

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

Welcome!

22-03-2024 watched I like how it's turned 👌

For your water connection....Union fittings could work. Or you could use garden hose threaded connectors and that kind of quick connectors

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

Yeah that could work! Thanks for the suggestion!

if the cold inlet was bottom & hot at the top would it self circulate the heated water ?

Well looking at this stove reminds me of a little camping rocket stove that you could charge your phone with! I would think it would take this stove to the next level! Cooking,water heater and phone charger what’s not to like!

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

Haha love it

@smokenjoe4022

2 ай бұрын

aussietim7974 There’s a few very good reasons to have a phone with when you’re remote! Injuries serious injuries it would be nice to just make a call rather then crawl 10 miles or carry the same! If spot a lightning strike or other reason for a fire 🔥 calling it in early might save lives and livelihood! Late spring or early fall show storm it there hunting you with snow machines you could hear them and guide them to you with guess what! Right your dam phone! One thing l do know about Australia is if all the women left Australia the men wouldn’t know it for 24 hours! 🍻

@emilsmadvlogs5879

13 күн бұрын

@@aussietim7974as a boy-scout, (leader/adult now) sometimes we bring the youngest out.. I bet the parents don't mind the leaders using their phones in case of emergency :)

Pretty cool I wonder what it would be like with a triple layer coil in it was like 3/8 tubing mandrel bent (fill the tubing with water and freeze it or fill it full of sand and heat bend it) in order to get it a tighter radius

Awesome Patric , please tell us about the water pump you used .

I recently purchased a small used wood kiln. Thinking about something like this to help offset the heat in the kiln. Especially while setting the pitch. Plus burn my waste. Need to find a used pellet mill. Like the idea for heating a shed or shower water.

Thermosiphoning has been mentioned a bunch already. My concern is melting through the copper with high heat over time. My first thought is to consider putting the coil outside the riser pipe. Then I thought about maybe doing an inner sleeve filled with a perlite cement mix to protect the pipe and also hold the heat over time so you don’t boil your water but can continue to have reasonable heating of the water over time without having to keep the fire burning.

Could use hydraulic hose fittings as quick couplers or 3/8 air hose couplers

If you were to use air hose chucks as quick connects. By the looks of the flow of the pump if you were to restrict the outlet it should slow down the water for quicker heating times.

general awareness information - to give these systems a long service life one might want to consider electrically isolating the copper pipe from the other steel components and also add a sacrificial anode to mitigate galvanic corrosion, because the heat generated in the fire box area will accelerate the galvanic effect.

To help ease the difficulty of coiling the copper tubing. You can anneal it with a propane torch. Copper tube is work hardened from the manufacturing process. So you can soften it by the annealing process, making it way easier to coil tightly.

@CL-vz6ch

2 ай бұрын

Purchase the softer copper coil in maybe ⅜" or ½" used in refrigeration. Very easy to bend around a pipe.

Great video, thanks! Any concern the solder will melt due to the rocket stove heat?

looks very DIY

Nice build, but personally i would rather have a coil of copper on the outside so it's easier to remove and replace, as well as useful without water heating. I like the ability to cook food as well as heating water.

Once you work the bugs out, ceramic coat (like they use on turbos) on the heat ex.

Hot water rises, so cold should go in through the lower inlet and out the top. Once working and you have water circulating you should be able to turn off the pump and water should continue to circulate.

The cold water as to be in bottom and hot water in top. Hot water always go up. If connect the other way it will build pressure and it will not allow to reffil the pipe. And can make boom.

awwwsome!! Do you think will also work in a chimney with hot smoke?

So, I have been thinking about this idea for a few years. My family and I will be moving to Alaska in a couple years. We are planting a church in remote Alaska and will be building our own homestead. So, I thought of this idea to help with heating the home (ie heated floors), main water heater, and to help heat a 3 season/year round green house. I figure with enough plastic 55 gallon drums of water around the parameter of the green house, among other natural insulation. Circulating hot water constantly throughout that system could help to keep the green warm enough to keep plants alive. I don't know if it will work in practice, but that is my theory.

Another improvement would be dead simple: just put a thin piece of steel down into the middle of the heat coil. They do that with residential water heaters. The flue gasses heat up the steel, and it radiates energy to the coils. Maybe you could get two pieces and slit them halfway down the length and then fit them together at 90 deg in a cross pattern and then put that in the middle. Looks like fun!

Awesome, but cold should go to the bottom and hot out the top. This is the natural way water wants to flow. You waste energy exchange by forcing cold to go high and hot low. Switch them and no pump required. Thermogradient will cause the hot water to rise in the coil, pushing the cold water into the lower inlet of the closed tank system. the water will be hotter faster longer.

Congrats very cool ! just a word of caution : Never pump water into an already hot coil , fill with water first. Also, I hope nobody is tempted to add valves as bells and whistles to tis great and simple design.

Use hot water pressure washer fittings for quick connect

cold in at the bottom warm out at top, warm water is less dense than cold and will pump itself through the system if done correctly.. had a bigger version with reburner heating water to keep my greenhouse warm.

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

Just published a video on this today. With a thermosyphon setup you are right But with a pump it makes no difference which way you plumb it.

Get a compression copper fitting to connect to your 5/8 male fitting. Locke supply would definitely have it or Home Depot or Lowe’s, but Locke Plumbing definitely would definitely have it. It’s a copper ferrule, so it would handle the heat.

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

does a compression fitting need a special tool to do you just tighten a nut?

@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736

3 ай бұрын

@@PatrickRemington yeah, definitely nothing but a couple wrenches.

@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736

3 ай бұрын

@@PatrickRemington you may even be able to get a braided line that has the compression end fabricated into it. Lowe’s or Home Depot would carry something like that but I don’t know if you could find one very long. Because they are usually used to connect facets under a sink or to a toilet tank.

You could silver braze those stub outs to the steel to keep the steel from cutting into that copper. It’s going to get hot and soft especially if it’s in there with no water running through it. Those soft solder joints might melt out.

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

that's why it's removable. If you aren't needing the heat exchanger you could swap it out.

I don’t think you need the pump. “Thermosiphon” is what you need to look up. Heating the water will make it flow. Pull cold water from the bottom of the Jerry can and deliver the hot water to the top. Have the top of the water level above the stove. Prime the system by filling the hose. Water boiling will push any extra air out.

I build a version of the rocket stove that more-resembles a rocket mass heater. It's fueled by hardwood pellets and the exhaust is contained in a vertical section of thick steel pipe with a flat top. Think of a steel tank with one end sealed with a flange (to facilitate maintenance) and the other flat and welded on. The bottom side of the exhaust chamber is fitted with the exit chimney. Everything is inside my house except the exhaust termination. It heats my house and I can cook on it too. I also wrap the rocket-exhaust capture cylinder with copper pipe connected to a standard 20-gallon water heater tank, which creates a closed loop and thermosiphons, eliminating the need for a pump. NOTE: Using a copper coil inside, in the flamefront area will boil the water and make steam. You don't want steam. I put my coil on the outside of the receiver cylinder nowhere near the flames. Note also, the top of my receiver cylinder gets around 700°F. There's no lack of waste heat.

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

That’s awesome!

Very cool!

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

Thank you!

Consider using a Peltier element to power the water pump.

Cold in on the bottom, heat rises and natural convection will assist your pump rather than fight against it

Could add a hopper too

If the need arised and you were truly in a no power situation, I think the water will circulate naturally via percolation without the pump. The inlet and outlet will be reversed though. Cold intake on the bottom, and boiling hot out the top. The water source should be high enough so that the heat exchange is mostly full of water at all times.

Nice design.... two question... 1. What is max temp of that rocket stove at the coil? Is that soft copper or annealed in the HW coil? Wondering how close those temps are... a stainless steel coil might hold up better at those temps...

Look for quick connect solution in pressure washer fittings

The 3/8” tubing, if you found a piece of pipe or PVC, maybe 3” O.D. That should work the same as a tubing bender and allow you to coil the 3/8” tubing without crimping it. It would be faster, but you would need to keep the tubing snug against the 3” PVC as you coil it. Same principle as bending EMT or any other conduit or tubing. For whatever it’s worth.

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

It doesn't take much for that stuff to crimp. A tubing bender has dies that support the walls as it bends and keep them from crimping. I would still use sand for sure.

@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736

3 ай бұрын

@@PatrickRemington you would just have to press it against the pipe as you press your hand to bend it around the pipe; once you get a couple of wraps around the pipe, it will be easy to continue bending it around; you could use some duck tape to tack one end while you get it started, but the important part is to keep the part your bending snug to the pipe as you press it around with the palm of your hand; maybe put a glove on to keep from getting blisters, because it will put friction to your hand, but once it’s all coiled, you can adjust the diameter and definitely easier than dumping sand into the tube, which eventually, also, has to be removed. It is fairly easy once you get the coordination down, and the pipe should be a length you can place into a vice! You don’t want to have to maneuver both.

Great build Patrick! How long did it take? I don't have a rocket stove so I am hoping you can answer a question for me. To my understanding a rocket stove got its name because of the sound it makes drawing in fresh air. Because of that fact I was curious if you put a tube in the combustion area or slightly above would it create a negative pressure in the tube? Thank you in advance for answering my question and continue the great work you're doing.

What? You just made a whole project as an excuse to have some bacon! 😂 Great video man, thanks!

Maybe look in to the quick connect fittings that are used on pressure washer wands. Can usually find them where pressure washer are sold and accessories

@PatrickRemington

3 ай бұрын

That’s a great idea! I’ll look into it!

@Odrunkmonkey

3 ай бұрын

Stainless camlock’s would be better. Beer home brewers use them for quick connect and food safe. Most “brass” these days are brass plated zinc.

Try filling the copper tube with water then freezing it. It then can be bent without pinching

Would opposing metals be an issue here? Idk myself if to prevent copper from corroding it would need to be insulated from metal chimney?

I think that round tubing is superior because if speed of air flow is a factor, round is the way to go. Air, or any fluid, moves much easier through round than anything with flat sides or corners. You get much less resistance in a round duct because it has the least surface area to internal volume and it lacks corners which create eddies that cause drag. Also, one 90 degree elbow creates the same resistance as 10 ft of straight pipe regardless of shape. How much of a difference it makes in such a short contraption, I can't say. But the ideal stove would be one with no corners made from round tubing.

Hi, we get the weight of it ? Including with and without the water heating extension ? Thanks a lot