Used your techniques a couple years ago. Glad you still have the video up as a refresher. Sometimes I either second guess myself or forget. In this case both. Thank you sir!

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 ай бұрын

You're welcome Tina. Glad to have you back. best . . . paul

So so glad that the world has you to teach us how to stain/finish/sand our projects. I’ve been watching all morning to prepare for finishing the table I’ve been sanding down.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

You can do it Kate!! best . . . paul

Hi Paul; we love to watch your videos. They are packed with great info, easy to grasp and cover the process from start to finish... thank you so much!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey User. You're very welcome. Glad to be a small part of your journey. best . . . paul

Insanely valuable education tool you put together there. This process has vexed me, but I am learning all the time.

@paulsDIYsolutions

5 жыл бұрын

Thanx peep. My friends say a 40 minute video are you crazy! 40 minutes isn't enough. Yeah I know, still learning myself. Absolutely love KZread.

This has been really helpful. Being a new hobbyist I could not get a sufficiently nice finish before, but my latest project turned out pretty well by applying your techniques shown here. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🙏🏻

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Melkjor. Thin is the key especially with acoustic instruments. While I'm tone deaf I have a friend who does instruments. Varnish and polyurethane are used on his electric stuff but he uses French polishing on all his acoustics. best . . . paul

Great looking door! Thanks for sharing the tips on how to deal with runs.

@paulsDIYsolutions

5 жыл бұрын

Hey Dale. My pleasure. Glad to be of some help. Thanx for the feedback. best . . . paul

Very happy I found your channel! Nicely done, and the tid -bits of info along the way are nicely inserted into the video!

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Thanx Just4fun. Glad to be of some help. best . . . paul

The intro to this video was awesome! It lets the user skip through to the section they need! THANK YOU!

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah I knew it was gonna be a longer video and most folks need different info. Happy Holidays . . . paul

Out of all of the finishing videos of yours that I've watched so far, the most important things seem to be thin properly and "just leave it alone..." Thank you for sharing your wisdom.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Rex. Yeah polyurethane sets up pretty quickly and playing around once it starts to set only creates flaws. best . . . paul

Thank you for your detailed videos/pdfs and sharing your experience.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Jean. Glad to be of some help. Thanx for your feedback. best . . . paul

Thank you for the tutorial, it explains why there was so many bubbles on a 10 ft shelve i had applied polyurethane. I did the in between coats sanding but still found those annoying bubbles. The technique of starting midway of the length of the project is a great way to avoid over applying the poly. Thanks for the expertise, there are so many novice videos and not enough professional woodworking videos. Hence, my father is a master carpenter and he showed me the technique of feathering, i thought he was trying to be a perfectionist, but in reality a professional finish wood finishing job requires much patience.

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Elaine. We should always listen to our parents!! LOL. Thanx for your positive feedback> Glad to be of some help. best . . . paul

Great video, thank you. I've watched several tutorials from different people and I really appreciate all the details you show. I'm using for the first time Polyurethane water based varnish, over chalk paint. I did the first coat and I'm not very happy about it, I'm hoping that by tomorrow and after sanding lightly and doing a second coat it will improve, I have some spots that the varnish did not take, so perhaps on the the second coat. My brush obviously is not as a good quality as yours because I have to dip several times. Thanks again for your lovely videos and I'm glad I'm not alone with all the issues.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Dora. Don't fret the wood's open pores suck up the polyurethane (especially thinned polyurethane). That typically only occurs on the first coat on new woods or wood that the finish has worn off. A good brush is important though so maybe splurge a little next time (it'll last forever with proper care). Also I would go with oil based (next time). It's a lot more forgiving in that it has a longer open (drying) time (5 mins vs 15 mins). This allows tiny bubbles to pop and brush marks to level. Anyway thanx for your positive feedback and glad I was of some help. Let me know how it turns out. best . . . paul

Thank you for sharing your knowledge! It is extremely helpful. (And I loved the Go Away sign!)

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Brenda. You are welcome. Happy to be of some help. The flip side says "WELCOME". Depends on the mood for the day. LOL best . . . paul

The best video on how to apply spar varnish on a front door. I used your technique last year doing my front door and it came out beautifully. I am going to redo it again this year and started to panic having not saved your video to refresh my memory. Thankfully I eventually found it, and it is now permanently bookmarked for future reference.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 ай бұрын

Hey Jerry. Permanent huh? That's scarry!! The last person to have anything of mine permenently embedded is now lockel away. Thanx for watching and commenting Jerry. best . . . paul

@ronswansonsdog2833

23 күн бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions😂😂😂

This vid will come in handy. Going to refinish an old office door from 1920. Sam Spade style! New sub. Greetings from Illinois!

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Prog Queen. Sounds cool. I too am in Illinois. Thanx for the feed back. best . . . paul

Excellent video. Thanks for sharing your secrets with the world

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Brigit. My pleasure. Glad to be of some help. Thanx for the feedback. best . . . paul

Thank you Paul. I appreciate your videos.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

You're welcome Harold. Glad it helped. Thanx for the feedback. best . . . paul

Very helpful video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Nitro. My pleasure. Thanx for your feedback. best . . . paul

I just stumbled on your videos and wow!! Thank you for all your info!!!

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

You're welcome Marvel. Thanx for stumbling and the feedback. best . . . paul

So glad I stumbled across this. I have bifold closet doors with mirrors. The have been stained but I was afraid to finish them. Once I get the "appropriate", brush and mineral spirits I am anxious to get started. The bathroom has been done for 2 weeks but I was afraid to finish the doors!

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Deb. A little fear is a good thing. But no need. It's not that difficult once you understand the basics. Be sure to do a very quick and light sand with a sandpaper around 180 or 220 before applying any finish. Stain tends to raise the grain (kinda like the frizzies in our hair after a shampoo). Applying the finish might take a little practice so I always recommend that you start with the least visible surface. Maybe the backside of your closet doors. I'm here if you have a question (I check this site daily). You got this!!! best . . . paul

Stellar video sir, I appreciate it!

@paulsDIYsolutions

5 жыл бұрын

Hey DSusty. Thanx for the feedback. Glad it was of help. best . . . paul

Very informative! Best video and so detailed that I have seen yet! Thank You so much!!

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Gald to be of some hel[p Sandy. Thanx for the feedback. best . . . paul

@llamamamadeb

11 ай бұрын

Ha!, I meant to say vertical application-thanks again

Good Job! I learned more from you than any other video.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Jessica. Glad to be of some help. Happy Holidays . . . paul

You’re the best!! Love this...

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Pat. Can you tell my wife that? Best is not a phrase she uses when talking about me!! Thanx for the feedback! best . . . paul

Thanks man, those are some great tips.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

No problem my opinion. Happy to be of some help. Keep going!! best . . . paul

The video is good. I was so absorbed into it that I didn't realize that I have already watched three quarters of it. When the material is good, length is not an issue!

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Chris. Glad to hear that! It's a long one. Most people today want sound bites, not real procedures. For them I made the "Fixing Polyurethane Bubbles, Puddles, Runs and Brush Marks" video. LOL. I like details so I just wanted to be thorough. Appreciate your positive feedback. best . . . paul

Great video, I have 13 treads and 9 risers (risers are painted a white for a two tone stair case). I also have 9 doors I am doing, I am going to paint the jambs white and then the doors a Carrington stain with poly. I am excited to try your tips/tricks, I was under the impression that I had to do everything in two coats, but I guess thinner is better :) and multiple coats if needed.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Jeff. Sounds really nice. Extra coats make more work and add a couple days but the finish will last for years and every time you walk past a door or step on a tread you'll be thankful you took and extra few days. best . . . paul

Hi Paul? This is the best video I’ve seen on finishing wood surfaces! From making sure you have a good brush to thinning the poly clear coat. I had been having trouble finishing a small table top after replacing the veneer. After four tries I finally got it right after following all your tips! I cleaned and washed /dried the brush after each application of polyurethane. Again thank you for taking the time to make a “real” video about. wood finishing.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey James. Thanx for the feedback. It's not that difficult once someone shows the steps. I've learned a ton from KZread creators. Nice to share. I'm glad I could be of some help. best . . . paul

Before i found this video i was worried my project was gonna be botched, i am confident now that with thin coats, patience and the technique you use, my project wont be as bad as i anticipated

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Meat. Not a problem. You're welcome. Hurray for KZread!! My go to!! best . . . paul

Very useful information. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Me like others doesn't mind the leght.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

You're welcome odenix. Glad to be of some help. best . . . paul

Great video. Thanks!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thanx James and thanx for watching. best . . . paul

This is the most informative video I've found for working with polyurethane. It covers many great things to look for unlike many videos on KZread. Absolutely great instruction. Quick question. Is it okay to lay brush polyurethane over wipe on if it is the same brand etc. I've started with wipe but do not like how it's covering. I don't want to remove it. Thanks

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Kickford. Yeah you should be just fine. Sand lightly with a 180 grit before applying the new coat. The sanding is not to remove any polyurethane just to give the new coat something to grab onto. best . . . paul

Couldn't find the popular video you were speaking about on your basics.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Rob. Not sure what I mentioned but it might be my first video "Bubble Free Polyurethane Application" kzread.info/dash/bejne/ipN7ubqcqcfbZc4.html best . . . paul

I just wanted to mention if you're working with a nice Hardwood that you want to see the wood grain don't use a poly to begin with. I enjoy using waterlox it's one of my favorites. It's not plastic over wood and so easy to repair. I'm not saying that I never use poly products because, there's a time to use it. Great tips on properly cleaning your brushes! Thanks for sharing with us all.

@paulsDIYsolutions

5 жыл бұрын

Hey Gina. Nothing like pure Tung Oil!! best . . . paul

@Randalkurt

4 жыл бұрын

Waterlox is an excellent product, with a high level of VOCs. Use in a well ventilated area or you will get a splitting headache!

Thanks Paul. I watch this video every time as a refresher on how to do things the right way. What are your thoughts on thinning the spar varnish 50/50 on the last coat?

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Steve. I'll be watching your videos soon!! That's a little too thin. I would stick to 75:25 (3:1).

Another GREAT video - thank you, Paul! I am refinishing a dining room table and six chairs. All was going well, but I rushed the 2nd coat of oil-based poly, darn! I did more sanding and some touch-up staining and will "slowly" apply the 2nd, okay, sort of a 1.5 coat, tomorrow, wait 48 hours, sand, clean, and then do another coat. For a dining room table would you recommend 3 or 4 coats of poly?

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey PH. Don't feel bad it took me a LONG time to realize that patience is ESSENTIAL in woodworking. As far as the number of coats the answer is easy: That depends! Sorry for the vague response. It depends on usage. For the typical dining room table with occasional use 3 coats is more than enough. If you are going to seat kids at it 24-7 I would go with 4 coats. best . . . paul

Sir: I've gotten hooked on your videos! Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge!! One minor point - this may be a personal pet peeve-. I work in a Big Box Store paint (and related) Dept. I am NOT an 'Expert', certainly not close to your level ! But I DO have to say, most days I feel like a genius! (NOT Said boastfully...rather almost sadly) Most people are Absolutely clueless when it comes to finishes! I said all that to say this- I got what you said about how 'varnishes', 'poly', 'shellac', 'lacquer' names have gotten confused, mis-used, etc. But it MAY be helpful to stick to the preferred name. ie: This video was called Refinishing a door with "SPAR VARNISH", then called it 'POLY' numerous times. Not really a complaint, but it DID cause mild confusion at times! NO OFFENSE MEANT ! I'm still a devoted fan and sub!!! Thanks

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey ZC8. Ooops, sorry about thje big box comment!! My mouth moves faster than my brain much too often. You are right about using varnsh and urethane frequently and no offense is taken. The spar varnish I used was a urethane based spar varnish vs a tung oil based spar varnish (I actually prefer the later) and I should have clarified that up front. Thanx for your feedback. Always appreciated. best . . . paul

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hi Agian ZC8. I was thinking more about your post. I'd like to say KOUDOS to you. I bet the reason that you are able to advise and help so many people is the fact that you took your own time to carefully watch a 40 minute video on varnish!! I'm sure you've read and watched a lot of others. How many employees would actually care enough to do so?? When I retired and bored to death I went to my local big box home store and applied for a part time gig. I told them of my wood working experience and finishing videos thinking they'd offer me something in lumber or paint. They called me back and offered me a position in plumbing. I know nothing about plumbing and when I do a home plumbing repair have to run back to the store 400 times because I got the wrong part or the wrong size or the wrong orientation (and often the wrong advice)!!! I applaud you and would congradulate you on going above and beyond!!

@GMan-yv8cb

Жыл бұрын

@paulsDIYsolutions Hello again ! I had to go back to catch the 'big box' comment. Believe me, they Probably deserve any comments made about them! When I applied, they offered 'garden' or 'paint'. Two areas that I had some, but limited experience in, but great interest. I've learned a TON ... both from employment and YT !! (Lesson #1- weed out good info from the ... ugh ... not-so-good) [keeping it family-friendly!] Thanks for the (rapid ! ) response! Stay well !!

Hi. I Love your video on finishing your door. I’m getting ready to finish mine but an unsure what brand of brush I should use. Can you recommend one? I have looked for Ox and China Hair but don’t come up with anything that matches. Thanks!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hi JL. Yeah good brushes are getting progressively harder to find. People want throw away junk these days and stores want stuff they can turn over fast. Check St Louis Art Supply under varnish brushes. best . . . paul

Thanks for sharing your expertise. How can should I clean up some varnish on the glass?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Henry. Let it dry (2-3 weeks) then take a razor blade to it. best . . . paul

Great video. Question: I need to apply spar poly to a hung door. Would I change the poly/mineral spirits ratio to make it a little thicker or a little thinner? I think there might be pros and cons to each.

@paulsDIYsolutions

Ай бұрын

Wedned. I thin 3:1 still. best . . . paul

Great video. Thanks for all of the info. I'm considering a Stain + Poly in one mixture to finish a bar top. Does anything in the process change when dealing with that versus straight poly?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Jh. I don't recommend combo finishes at this point. I have yet to see nice results. best . . . paul

@JHahn812

3 жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks! I'll go the 2 step route instead.

Hey Paul I love your videos! I’m working on my first stain and seal project and have run into an issue. I followed your instructions and my poly application is perfect except after application I noticed what I can assume to be raised grain. I sanded coarse to fine and used oil based poly. Should I just sand the raised grain and apply the second coat? Thank you!

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Seek. You'll need more than one coat. I recommend two coats for minimal use projects, three coats for average use and 4 coats for heavily trafficed areas. Thin ALL coats 3:1 and sand VERY lightly with a 220 grit paper between each coat. Do not sand after the last coat. Hope this addresses your question. Let me know how it turns out, please. best . . . paul

This is great thank you! Love the PDF. I’m doing a kitchen table. Are you sure you don’t need to do backsplash? 😁 That’s my next project.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

You're welcome Jen. The projects never end do they? Seems like once you are done with everything it's time to start over for a redo. Have fun, DIYing is good for the soul. best . . . paul

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Won't hurt and you're welcome.

Thanks for this amazing video ! I redid all of our trim at our previous home and I wish I would have seen this video then! We are making a cubby/bench for our entry way and I just the bench with pine. I’ve stained with your technique and applied two coats of poly. It looks so much better than anything I’ve ever done but I wonder if I should do a third coat. This will be a pretty high traffic area. What do you think?

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Meegan. You probably don't need a third coat for a bench unless the family will be throwing skates and cleats on it. best . . . paul

@meegandyrland2995

4 жыл бұрын

One more question. I had one small strip that did not take the stain very well even though I pretreated upon your suggestion since it’s pine. I put more stain and add a coat of poly. It seems sticky and I would like to know the quickest and best way to fix it. It isn’t very big but since people will be sitting on this and it will be high traffic at times, I don’t want it to get worse after we add it to the cubbies.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Meegan. Not sure what's going on. Hard to tell without seeing it. It may be that the additional stain didn't absorb or absorbed but is bleeding out excess. Again I can't advise on a fix if I'm not sure what's going on. best . . . paul

@meegandyrland2995

4 жыл бұрын

It seems to be where the knots in the wood are.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

@@meegandyrland2995 HiMeegan. Those are always tricky areas. Knots were branches and represent a change in the direction of the wood fibers. They are areas of open grain (cut fibers) and those areas always take stain differently. I still think your problem is probably oversaturation with stain. It's probably bleeding out and will stop over time.

Hi thanks so much!grest video. Question. Did you do another light sanding (with the door hung) before the 3rd coat?

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Lee. Yeah all coats get a quick and light sanding before the next is applied. It gives the polyurethane something to grab ahold of and corrects minors imperfections. best . . . paul

Great tips from the pro, I just found your video. I’m doing my home floor with oil poly varnish. Can I mix my varnish 3 to 1 ratio mineral spirit to avoid bubbles? Thanks

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hey D. Yeah. Hopefully it's a small room. My technique is more suited for furniture, steps and shelving. Professional floor finishers use squeegees or lambs wool mops. best . . . paul

Hi I loved your video I have a client that has a set of double doors would you remove both doors enclosing the entrance with plywood and two-by-fours to protect the home while refinishing the doors horizontally then do the framework while the doors are drying in the garage the only way I can figure to do it any other ideas? Once again I love your videos I've been thinking about spraying the doors but they turned out so much better with a brush thank you very much

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Doug. It kinda depends on the area (safety wise). I just stapled plastic painting tarp overnight for a couple nights. I was more worried about bugs than burglars. best . . . paul

Great video- thank you! I am going to refinish a maple dining table and chairs which is currently varnished. Based on the videos I have watched I think the process should be: - Clean with murphy soap and water - Sand, starting with 100 then 150 then 180 then 220- "raise the grain" before the 180 sanding - Vaccuum then clean/ wipe with tack cloth after all sanding is done. Making sure it is free from all dust - Prep wood with Prestain (to achieve even application) - Stain- use oil based- need to achieve a dark charcol finish- Minwax? - use polyurethane 3:1, oil based, using a natural hair brush - do 2-4 coats, (using your method in this video), let each coat cure overnight and sand with 220 grit in between and wipe surface clean with paper towel with mineral spirits to remove all dust (let dry before applying next coat) Does this sound right? Would you recommend anything else or do anything differently? I think oil based is best given I need the most durable finish possible. Are there any specific brands that will provide the best/ most durable finish? How long would you let the entire project cure before using it to ensure it hardens/ prevents dents, etc. ?Thank you again for your terrific video.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Stephanie. Such organization, impressive!! Couple things. Make sure you do a very light pass with the tack cloth it can clog the wood's pores with the sticky chemicals. You could substitute mineral spirits which dries almost instantly and will pick up dust. Be aware maple doesn't take stain well. I would practice on small sections of the bottom of your table to see if you like it. It also has the propensity to blotch pretty bad. Your coats will dry overnight but typically takes 2-3 weeks to cure (dry all the way through). During this time it tends to off gas, which leaves an odor. It also answers the other part of your question as to when it becomes fully functional. I buy whatever major brand is on sale. I haven't found a huge difference in oil based poly's. I'm here if you have additional questions but sounds like you got this. best . . . paul

Thanks

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey fireworxz you're welcome thanx for the feedback. best . . . paul

Hooe all is well Paul! You're a great teacher and i have learned a lot from you. My question is .. Do I have to use sanding sealer on interior doors before applying the spar urethane? Thank you for your help!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Marco. No. I haven't used sanding sealers in years. Wood finishes and sand papers have come a long way making sealers virtually obsolete. best . . . paul

@marcosmendoza2516

Жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions So I just apply the spar urethane 3:1 ratio and How many coats should be applied? These are interior pine solid wood doors. Thank you..

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@marcosmendoza2516 So I wouldn't use spar varnish on an interior door. Spar varnish is an outdoor finish. Use instead oil based polyurethane and follow this video: How To Apply Polyurethane Without Bubbles, Puddles, Runs or Brush Marks | Updated kzread.info/dash/bejne/oKyrr8-jl5fRebw.html

Paul i think u said your door has a vanerr coat on it , i was wondering if you lightly sanded it first then apply your spar urathane or applie the sppar urathane then the next day sanded it , and applie more spar again

Paul thanks for your video, really informative. You mention thinning the oil based version to 4:1, is it the same amounts for the water based version and is it always best to thin polyurethane before application? thanks again.

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hey MAQ. Glad it was helpful. The ratio is actually 3:1. I thin all polyurethanes and varnishes at that ratio. I do it for each and every coat. I also apply each coat in ultra thin amounts. Thickness is built up by the number of coats you apply not how thick you apply each coat. Laying it down thin virtually eliminates large bubbles, puddles and runs. Laying it on with a good brush and leaving it alone once applied eliminates brush marks. best . . .paul

I want to do my kichen cabinets , there dull from age , can i lightly sand them then put wood conditioner , then a new stain and then polly urathane them ? Or is it better to lightly sand them with 220 grit then poly urathane them ? A couple of drawers got missing spots of urathene from wear how can i fix them , this is the ladt thing i meed to do on my apartment , let me know please , eagarly waiting your responses , thanks

I stripped several layers of paint and stain, and applied the first coat of an oil based polyurethane. Yesterday my husband decided to help me and applied a second coat of the polyurethane. The door had multiple puddles and bubbles in it. We both felt bad and then watched 3 of your videos. Now that we know what went wrong with the polyurethane we are going to strip the door and start over. It is the right thing to do at this point even though I have 4 full days of work on the door. Today we went to Lowe’s, Home Depot, and True Value Hardware to find the right brush.They don’t have a brush like yours. Where can I purchase a brush like yours as I don’t want to have to start all over again. Thank you so much for the videos as we feel ready to tackle this project again. It is a double or and the second door is stained and we stopped there. Our goal is to restore the two nice solid cherry wood doors. I eagerly await your answer please. Lynn Neidert

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Lynn. I know retail shops don't stock really good brushes anymore. Check online: Tools for Working Wood, Gordon Brush or The Paint Brush Corp. For oil based polyurethane be sure to get a natural bristle brush. Ox hair/china combos are the best choice. best . . . paul

@lynnneidert1221

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you. After watching your video again I found a Purdue ox hair brush. The problem is that I wrote down oxtail instead of ox-hair so no wonder that I couldn’t find it. Thanks again for your educational videos. My first door is now stripped again down to the wood. Amazon will deliver the new brush tomorrow. This is a great project now that San Diego is all locked down again because of Covid.

Great video! I have 11 interior doors to do. I started with the 4 closet doors being that I am a virgin to this Learned very quickly not to hang doors and apply the poly! Spent 20 mins chasing runs LOL! So this door will have this side inside closet. The doors I am doing are six panel pine similar to the bottom of your door. Should I start inside the “box” then and trim it like you did around your windows or treat it more like a flat surface and just do straight runs?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Michael. Always do the hardest to reach part first. That way you can lean against it or place a hand on the dry parts. best . . . paul

Hi Paul, excellent tutorial! If I am applying the spar urethane to cypress louvers would that require sanding in between coats? I'm not sure how the all the surfaces would be accessible for the sanding. Is the sanding primarily to give the application a perfect appearance (which would likely not be noticeable on the slats)? TIA!

@paulsDIYsolutions

5 ай бұрын

Hey User. Yeah I agree. While I don't do this for furniture grade finishing I recommend you read the recoat time by the manufacturer. Otherwise a light sanding is recommended between coats to assure coat adhesion. Usually manufacturers recommend recoating within 3-4 hours without the need to sand. best . . . paul

Please make a video about removing cup rings and water stains when refinishing furniture...I have tried sanding stain to match if it is a small single mark but what if there are multiple overlapping water marks? I enjoy your videos please keep them coming.

@paulsDIYsolutions

5 жыл бұрын

Thanx Matt. Cup rings are common to shellac finishes. Polyurethane offers great protection in that area. There are as many ideas on how to rid rings as there are rings. At my age i doubt that I have the time to cover them all. best . . . paul

@tedmcnair9709

5 жыл бұрын

The only way to fully remove a ring is to strip the finish completely off re stain and apply your finish. Sanding only opens the grain and doing so darkens the finish regardless if you only use a clear finish. ☹️sorry but there is no easy way to fix them.

@mattjoe1740

5 жыл бұрын

Paul and @@tedmcnair9709 thank you. Yes since the first project I have learned just by taking it down to bare wood I cannot correct water stains by using stain alone, unfortunately. The sanding technique was a wow factor for me and so moving forward I think I may just try to avoid taking on those projects at all costs lol.

Great videos I wish that I had come across these before I started my exterior raised panel door. "I have done this before. I pretty much know what I am doing." Not an exterior door. One thing that I had problems with and I don't hear you point it out specifically, is you get brush marks by overworking the poly. I got brush marks that I really had to work out because I probably brushed out after poly had started to dry out, even if it didn't look like it was dry. But it was in the process of setting.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey GKD. I think I say lay it down and leave it alone (emphasizing the "Leave It Alone" part). My technique is dip the brush lightly, start in the middle stroke right (or left) to the end, overlap the middle to the left. Do 2-3 runs feather lightly and leave it alone. If applied thin there should be no brush marks. By feathering it evens out any puddles. Water based polyurethane sets up in about 5 minutes so tinkering to much runs the risk of brushing drying polyurethane setting brush marks and potentially creating waves (not to mention distorting the sheen). Oil based polyurethane sets up on about 15 minutes so you have a little longer "open time". That's why I recommend oil based polyurethane, especially for people new to this technique. Hope all that helps. best . . . paul

@KHREE1119

2 жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions hi Paul! I love your video and thank you! I just wish I'd found this before faux painting my fiberglass exterior doors to look like wood. I experienced the same problem with brush marks after the 1st coat. I was so disappointed that I decided not to apply any additional coats until I figured out what I needed to do to fix it... in fear of ruining all the work I had done to make the door look like a wooden door. It's now been 3 weeks and I finally came across your video. If I add another coat of water based poly the correct way without overworking it, will that correct my problem? Please Help!!!

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

@@KHREE1119 Hey Khree. Unfortunately it won't fill the valleys of the brush marks. Brush marks come from applying too thick (RULE: LAY IT ON THIN) and overworking during the drying phase (RULE: LAY IT ON AND LEAVE IT ALONE). Sorry not criticizing just pointing out reasons. Might be best to leave it at this point. Often only you will notice them. Sorry Khree wish I had a better answer. best . . . paul

Good video on the basics of poly basics. A bit long winded though.

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Elias. You been talking to my wife??? I hear that all the time. LOL best . . . paul

Sure wish I had watched this before applying my first coat on my vanity......Home Depot guy said , "just use this foam brush" he said.... "it'll be OK", he said..... Going now to watch the video on how to fix so many bubbles and mistakes. Good thing it's an old piece just going into my bathroom. Thanks.

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

You're not alone Cathy. Let it dry thoroughly (cure). It may take 2-3weeksthen sand it off and you'll be fine. Letme know, please. best . . .paul

You’re a great teacher! My question…I am having a very difficult time getting a good smooth finish on my corn hole boards (a gift for my son’s upcoming Air Force retirement). I’ve used several grits of sandpaper, then used excellent products; from water-based wood conditioner to water-based semi-transparent wood finish and finally Helmsman water-based spar urethane in a satin finish. I just cannot seem to get a good smooth surface with the spar. I’ve tried using different lint-free cloths. I’ve not seen such a great brush like the one you use (but for water-based products). I am also wondering if the dryness of the Arizona desert and the temperature that comes with it could be drying the urethane too quickly…faster than I can possibly move. Since it’s water-based, should I finish indoors in a climate-controlled environment instead of my garage that’s now in the low 90°F?) OR can I switch to the oil base for the last coat or last two coats? HELP PLEASE! Thank you, Paul!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey J. Water based products set up 3 times faster than oil products. The fact that you re in such a dry climate speeds set up times even more. I would sand thorougly with a 180 grit paper and swirch to a tung oil based spar varnish (not urethane based). I would then follow the directions I lay out (thinning, application, coating, etc) precisely as outlined in my video. best . . . paul

Thank you for sharing, very detail and informative video. Someone just did varnish my front door and left a lot bubble like texture on it. Shall I ask him to light sand it and applied again? Just let you know I liked you video but for somehow it unliked after couple minutes, clicked like bottom again and it unliked, don’t know what happen

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Grace. I would not pay him until you get a perfect job. No reason for bubbles other than poor workmanship. best . . . paul

Thanks Paul. A great step by step video. But I thought for best varnish sand papering is a must ???

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Mohamed. Thanx for the feedback. I don't quite understand your question though. What exactly are you talking about when you say sand papering is a must? paul

@MS-zb6gr

3 жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions yes Paul. I meant for best poly brushing is it not best by sanding first ? And if I need to put another poly second layer on top of the first one I need to sand the wood again ? Thanks

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

@@MS-zb6gr Okay got it! Yes do a very light sanding with a 220 grit paper before applying any additional coats. Do not sand after the final coat. If you have minor imperfections on the last coat replace sandpaper with the material from a brown paper bag. It's coarse enough to remove minor imperfections yet fine enough not to change the sheen. best . . . paul

I have a new wood front door that I will stain then add spar urethane. My plan was to use three coats of varnish per the label recommendation but I am wondering since I am do a 3-1 ratio do I need to do extra coats since it’s not full strength? The door is under a front porch with trees in front of the porch so it doesn’t get much sun. Mostly in the winter when the leaves are gone it may get a little morning sun.

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 ай бұрын

Hey Liz. It would't hurt. I usually do three thinned and I'm in the midwest. But if you have the energy do it. best . . . paul

Hi Paul, great videos. I,m trying to put a clear gloss poly on a coffee table. I’ve watched some of your other videos too. - great advice. One problem I seem to be having is I get the odd matt streak in the middle of a lovely gloss finish. I sand and apply next coat but still can’t seem to get a uniform gloss finish. Any ideas? It’s an oil based poly.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey MrP. I'm not sure what the particular issue might be but let me explain what it takes to get a deep reflective mirror like finish. A finish often seen on a black baby grand piano or a lacquer finish on a custom show car are examples of deep reflective sheens. Perfect reflection comes from a perfect surface. While polyurethane can fill in scratches left by 180 grit sandpaper, deep high gloss reflective finishes require sanding in the 400-800 grit ranges. Depending on the wood woodworkers (and custom auto enthusiasts) will not only sand that high but then use grain fillers to assure covering of all sandpaper scratches. And then polishes to further eliminate the minutest sanding scratches. Putting a high gloss finish on an old fashioned washboard will only result in a shinny washboard. Uneven sanding would be my initial guess. There is also the possibility on chemical contamination. This could occur in restoration of a piece. Many furniture polishes contain silicone (think WD 40). It makes the surface slippery which consumers love in a furniture polish. The issue is getting rid of old silicone. It's impossible. Cleaning and sanding just move it around the surface but most often fail to eliminate it. The last thing in new wood might be moisture content. Not all wood is dried to the same degree and this will effect the evenness of the finish. Long and short it's hard to tell without knowing the steps you took to get to the finish. Wish I could be more specific. best . . . paul

@misterpictureful

3 жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks Paul. It is kiln dried teak. I think it may be grain related. Maybe I should have applied a sealer coat to the bare wood first. I think the sanding was good. It’s almost like the poly soaks in in some places but sits on top in others. Thanks again.

Thanks for the video Paul. Is there a reason why you did not tape off the windows or hardware with painters tape? I'm building cabinets but some areas that need to be painted are impossible to reach after assembly, so i must do some pre-painting before assembly. I have taped off the areas that will be joined together but am concerned that the mineral spirits will leak thru the painters tape

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 ай бұрын

I'm pretty good with trim finishing so I typically don't tape. I'm not sure about your question. I would do a quick experiment on scap wood.

Great video. Do you thin water base urethane also?

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Jose. Yes. Be a little careful with water based urethane. It sets up (becomes tacky and unworkable) approxiamtely 3X faster than oil based. Set-up time is about 5 minutes with water which means areas should be laid down with in 2 minutes and then left alone. That's a pretty good pace to keep and get it right. Oil is around 15 minutes setup time. Which gives you around 4-5 minutes workablke time. This extra time is important for brush marks to settle, puddles to level and tiny bubbles to pop. Thinning helps. It not only changes consistency but it also increases setup times and helps with surface adhesion. Once you are a little experienced and comfortable with this technique water based is okay but oil is my go to!! best . . . paul

I was really hoping this was the answer to my less-than-perfect finish on my dining table refinishing project. I followed your technique to the letter, mixing 3 parts Varathane Ultimate oil-based polyurethane with 1 part mineral spirits. I used a decent brush, best I could buy at Home Depot and designed for oil-based paint and finish. I had already applied 2 coats, one at 50/50 varathane/mineral spirits, and one coat full strength. I waited 3 days and then used your technique. For some unknown reason I got a TON of bubbles, and big ones. They showed up a minute or so after careful application and reappeared after I popped them with the corner of the brush. They kept coming and when it was finally dry, I had quite a few tiny craters left from big bubbles. I waited 48 hours, then "sanded" with a brown paper bag. This improved the surface quite a bit, but I thought I would give it ONE MORE TRY and applied a second coat of 50/50 this morning. Brush was clean (I followed your cleaning technique), surface was totally dust free, air temperature was 70 degrees. I still got big bubbles. I can only conclude that it's not a good idea to thin this product. The appearance of the bubbles after 1 minute or more of curing suggests an ongoing chemical reaction. I'm going to wait at least 24 hours before giving it another buff with the paper bag and then call it good.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey A. Sorry to hear that you are having issues. I've thinned varathane with no issues . It sounds like you did as well on your first coat. I've never waited three days to re-coat. I wonder if the previous coat was "off gassing" - the release of gases from the polyurethane's liquid carrier evaporating. The puzzling part is the post application bubbling. That is something common to epxoy finishes not polyurethane or lacquers. The other issue, and I cant verify this, might be not sanding more aggressively. I use brown bag to knock down dust nibs. It really doesn't really bite much into the finish. Perhaps sanding with a 220 grit paper opens up the surface allowing the underlying gasses to escape readily. Not sure. Again sorry you had issues. best . . . paul

@AHibbs-tu7ks

4 жыл бұрын

paulsDIYsolutions thanks for your reply. You might be right about previous layers off-gassing. I dunno! In any event, it’s good enough. Take care.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

@@AHibbs-tu7ks Believe it or not it disturbed my sleep last night (my anal side kept waking me up)!! LOL. I'm going to experiment this summer. Thanx for your response.

@AHibbs-tu7ks

4 жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions I'm sorry this disturbed your sleep! Here's some information for your experiments. This is exactly what I did beginning with a solid white oak table top sanded clean. I always removed as much dust as I could with a tack cloth. All products oil based: day 1: varathane pre-stain wood conditioner day 2: varathane Premium Wood stain in Summer Oak, Day 3: application of 50/50 polyurethane and mineral spirits with a brush. Not terribly pleased with the results... Day 5: after a light hand sanding with 220, application of full strength Polyurethane with same brush. No bubbles, just a few patches I missed. Day 7: no sanding, just another application of full strength poly with brush. Looked pretty good but the open grain was still visible so I thought I'd give your technique a go. Day 10: light sanding with power sander and 220 grit, application of 3:1 poly:mineral spirits with the brush. Bubbles galore and they continued to crop up after I popped them. Day 12: After scrupulously cleaning my brush according to your excellent demo, and careful smooth stirring of 3:1 polyurethane, I applied one more time. Still had bubbles, though perhaps not as many. We've decided to just live with it. It's not the end of the world and they will smooth down with daily wiping as this is our hard-working family dining table.

@blacksnow90

4 жыл бұрын

@@AHibbs-tu7ks hey, I'm going through a similar experience as you. If you picked up the Wooster brush, I think that might be the problem. It traps a ton of air, in fact, the way the bristles are attached, there's a huge gap in the middle. The bristles are attached in almost a circle, which traps huge bubbles. Also, when I tried to use the brush, I could only get 4 to 5 inches before the brush dried and I was gliding a dry brush on my material. Home Depot lists these brushes as natural bristles, but I think these are not great for laying oil based materials.

i love your videos but I'm having a hard time finding a thick ox hair brush.. What is your source?

@paulsDIYsolutions

8 ай бұрын

Hey Nic. Yeah good brushes are almost impossible to find in the hardware or paint isles. We have become a throw-away society. People spend big bucks on designer wear and high end autos but buy the cheapest tool that might accomplish a task they understand little about. Retailers won't tie up shelf space for quality tools that can sit for years. I bought my last brush from an art supply store. They sell varnish brushes that artists use. They have them in 3 inches. Check out St Louis Art Supply under varnish brushes. best . . . paul

That surface at the end looked far from smooth and bubble free but I guess that’s ok with an outdoor project? My OCD would make me keep sanding and appying, sanding and applying coat after coat until it’s flawless or I just give up! I’ve been working on 3 solid walnut cabinet doors for about a month now because I can’t seem to get a perfect finish!! It’s driving me absolutely crazy! I purchased a kids tent to have a “dust free” environment (that didn’t work), I purchased a %100 ox hair brush (it’s fantastic but I keep getting a shit ton of bubbles! But I resolved that by learning to thin the poly), so I changed up my technique and tried spray on polyurethane. That seemed to finish a lot better and uniform but my final cabinet is now having a weird bubbly looking finish from the spray. Idk what I’m doing different from the last two? Spraying too much? To little? My goal is to get a factory store bought piano finish and anything less just will not suffice! I also attempted to do an epoxy finish! Now that is extremely difficult! I love the durable finish of epoxy but wow, that is really hard to make a flawless finish!! With all the drips and tool marks! I was curious if I could maybe get your email Paul? Just to ask you a few questions about what I’m doing wrong? I’m honestly ready to give up because my moral is so low due to the rate of my failure. Please please help! And sorry for the ranting and raving of this obnoxiously long comment. Thanks.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Giancarlo. It's best to chat here that way others can learn or add their input. As far as spraying hard to tell what you are getting without seeing it.The two most common spray issues are fish eye or orange peel. Try googling those terms I'm sure you'll find some comparables. If you are going to spray I would spray lacquer not poly, there are sooooo many advantages to using lacquer when spraying (dry time, no sanding between coats, entire project can be completed in minutes vs days, you only have to clean your equipment once). If you are looking for a deep finish, like on a baby grand piano, you have to use a grain filler. The wood must be perfectly (and I do mean perfectly) level. Otherwise you can get a shinny surface but any grain raise will prevent a deep mirror like finish. (PS Walnut is a very grainy wood). Spraying can eliminate bubbles because it atomizes the liquid. I'm not a fan of the look of epoxy but it is deep. In any case I'm here so I'll do my best to answer your questions. best . . . paul

Also the door is Oak and appears to adjust have a clear coat on it no stain do I add a bit of stain or do I just clear coat it again

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Personally I would just clear coat. I guess it depends on how weathered the doors are and if your clients are happy with the current color.

Thank you Paul for the instruction and tips. I am working on a new chest of drawers that is plywood white wood veneer and pine. I have already applied 3 coats of full strength poly and just now found ur videos. I'm not real happy with my finish. Would it be ok to put a 3 to 1 mix of poly on now to get a smoother finish and should the last coat that goes on a project be a mix or at full can strength?

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Alan. Not sure the reason why you aren't happy with your finish. If there are flaws in the finish applying more polyurethane won't correct most of them. Please see my video "Fixing Polyurethane Bubbles, Puddles, Runs and Brush Marks". kzread.info/dash/bejne/aoRkrMyphpCff5c.html If you want to provide more detail I may be able to advise you. best . . . paul

@alansh7530

4 жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions Yes there are dust nips and a roughness that I don't like. They go away and I have a smooth finish when I sand. Then I apply another coat and the nips and roughness arr back when it dries.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Got it. Go ahead a sand and then thin and follow the directions outlined in the video. Dust is in the air and best way to get rid of the nibs is to use the material from a brown paper bag as your final sand paper. It's rough enough to remove the nibs and gentle enough so as not to alter the finish. best . . . paul

Thank you Paul for these tutorials ... and for sharing. These are a lot of work, a lot of time and a lot of sacrifices to plan, make videos, add explanations and prepare the final editing. For this very detailed video, I do not understand the last part (39:50). After finishing the first two layers horizontally, why did you add the third layer vertically? Thank you Paul.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Octopus. My doorway was covered with plastic and there were threats of really bad weather with high winds. I didn't want to take the chance of potential interior home damage. best . . . paul

@octopus3xl963

4 жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions Hi Paul, thanks for your quick reply. So if I understand correctly, you applied the third layer of polyurethane vertically just for safety because the weather is bad and if the weather was good you will finish the work horizontally. For my part, I will start applying this beautiful polish tomorrow and I will follow your advice and apply it horizontally. Thank you Paul for the time spent on answers.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Octopus. I would have preferred to do it all horizontally.

@octopus3xl963

4 жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions thinks Paul 🙂

Thank you for this. Super informative and well put together. I wanted to ask, how would you advise applying to a project with various surfaces? I'm working on an outdoor planter - so theres a top, sides, a bottom, insides.... I fear that doing everything at the same time will result in streaks... Do you advise doing one surface at a time? Curious. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Ай бұрын

Hey Yazr. Yeah. I'm thinking a planter is narrow and hard to get the both sides of the inside. Sounds like you'll have to do 1/2 and the top in the morning and the other 1/2 and the bottom in the afternoon for the intial coat and then repeat for the second coat, etc. The Japanese make a varnish brush without a handle. might be narrow enough to work? best . . . paul

@yazr1712

Ай бұрын

Thanks for the response! It's not very narrow - it measures about 56 x 24 inches. I'm just worried about brushing on the walls since gravity could cause the paint to run... The bottom is really the only thing I'd have to actually flip it for. Will think on it some more. Thanks again for the thoughtful video. Not enough of those!

@paulsDIYsolutions

Ай бұрын

@@yazr1712 The coats should be thin enough to avoid runs. Thickness is built up by applying multiple layers.

@yazr1712

Ай бұрын

Got it. Thanks!

1000 thanks for all these tutorials, I learned a lot about the application of polyurethane in this video. I appreciated your website and pdf documents, thanks for sharing. For my painting project, I will paint the front door, windows and French doors with polyurethane exterior. And I have 3 questions: 1. I have to paint vertically or horizontally? (Or maybe the main face horizontally then put the door or window vertically to paint the other side ???) 2. The rest of the polyurethane / thinner mixture that is stored in the box, before used to make the second layer, I still have it diluted a bit or not (to compensate for evaporation)? 3. To protect the wood from the sun and rain, two or three layers? Thanks a lot 🙂 Note: I do not speak much English, this message was translated with Google translate.

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey octopus. Google is amazing! I would suggest applying horizontally when that is an option. It helps to avoid drips and runs. You can store unused polyurethane just be sure your storage container is sealed and air-tight. You don't have to compensate for evaporation just use it as it is. I would personally do 3 coats. best . . . paul

@octopus3xl963

4 жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions thinks Paul 🙂

What's the ambient temp limitation for applying varnish?

Paul, I used a video of yours that included sanding, tack cloth, resanding, but can no longer find that video. Do you know which one I mean? Is it still available?

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Margaret. I have a couple that fit that bill. Pretty standard procedure. My channel is paulsDIYsolutions. here you can see all my vids. But aslo try: "the Best Clear Wood Combination Finish" or "how to apply tung oil tips and technique". They are two of my newer videos where I open with wood prep. best . . . paul

Great video very detailed but not filled with fluff and bs

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Thanx Mister F. My wife says I'm full of both of those. But who listens to wives anyway!! best . . . paul

Hi Paul, can a foam brush work well on applying polyurethane? A foam brush as you used in the video " Blotch- free Wood Stain Application Technique". Thank you,

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey T. I think you are mistaken. You might have watched someone else's video. I never used or recommended a foam brush for polyurethane application. I may use one maybe for applying stain. best . . . paul

Is it okay to use the milky mineral spirits substitute for thinning? Also does it have to be thinned before it's applied?

@paulsDIYsolutions

10 ай бұрын

Hey Eric. The milky white is odorless MS and I woul stay away from it. It's used more for cleaning than thinning. If you can't get regular MS use paint thinner. I don't understand the second part of your question though, sorry. best . . . paul

I am going to do outdoor benches with Premium OIL MINWAX STAIN AND THEN USE MINWAX HELSMAN SPAR URETHANE. The can of the Minwax Spear Urethane does not mention to dilute it 3:1 with mineral spirits as you recommended in your video. Should I to what you recommended or not dilute as per label of the can?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 ай бұрын

Hey Marilyn. Manufacturers have been putting DO NOT DILUTE on their label for years. It's more than likely there because their legal department compliance with EPA rules. I've diluted all claer finishes for 40 years. best . . . paul

Can you provide tips for applying when the door is hung and vertical? Unfortunately taking the door down isn’t an option as I will not have anyone to help. Also how long should I let the coats try before closing the door? This is a new door so the door on both sides and frame will need to be done.

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 ай бұрын

Be sure to apply thinned and in thin coats to avoid runs. best . . . paul

Hi Paul, I love your channel! I've watched all of your videos and have learned a lot. I'm working on a solid wood exterior door and have a question about what finish to use. Would an oil based spar urethane, thinned with mineral spirits or a tung oil based spar varnish, thinned with polymerized tung oil be best? Also, should I use a brush or can it be wiped on? Thank you 😊

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Lauralynn. So you got part of it right. I peresonally prefer tung oil based spar varnish for exterior wooden surfaces. Spar varnish is an old, old finish used to protect wooded boats!! Say no more, right? But be sure to thin it with mineral spirits not more tung oil. Spar urethane is a manufacturers play on words trying to attract the spar varnish faithful user. Urethane is urethane and they put sun blockers and softening chemicals in it to attempt to make weather friendly. It's not as good as the original spar varnish. Hope that helps. I'm here if I haven't addressed your concerns. best . . . paul

@lauralynn586

Жыл бұрын

Paul, thank you so much for the info. I really appreciate your help. Take care

I did my first coat today , 3 to 1 ratio using the varathane ultimate polyurethane clear semi gloss it’s been like 10 hours still looks pretty wet should I add a slight more poly to my second coat tomorrow?

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Oscar. No. Do all coats 3:1. Should be dry unless it's in a very humid environment. Semi-gloss will make it look wet. best . . . paul

I'm restaining a 100 year old stair which had six layers of paint on it. The sanding is done. I finished with #220 grit. The wood is either white or yellow pine here in Massachusetts. We're not sure of the color stain we want. We're using an oil base wood stain with the polyurethane layer to be added separately later. Is it best to start with a "natural" color first, so that if it's too light, we can work towards a darker finish? Thanks

@paulsDIYsolutions

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Mike. Yeah probably. Be careful though wood will reach a saturation point and will start to leach liquid out. Usually two stain applications is all. Are you staining them in place or removing them?If you are removing them you can practice on the bottoms. Or maybe you can buy some scrap and experiment. Although older wood will take stain differently. Good luck. best . . . paul

Hi Paul. I am doing a door right now. Sanded to 180. Applied stain, wiped off and waited 4 hours. I thinned spar 3:1. Soaked natural bristle brush in miner spirits and did the news paper trick. When I apply the spar to the door, my stain is picking up into my brush and then the brush is leaving colored brush strokes under the dried spar. If I try to rub it on at 1:1 ratio, it takes the stain off. Any thoughts?

@paulsDIYsolutions

Жыл бұрын

Hey Chad. I have a couple thoughts. First some stain will lift that's normal but it sgouldn't be so much that it changers the appearance. It may have not been dry enough or oversaturated. I let my stains (and finishes) dry overnight. The last problem happens in refinishes. If the wood is not taken down to complete bare (in other words there is old finish remaining) the stain will lay on the wood vs being absorbed into the wood and it's pores it will lift with finishing. best . . . paul

Did you clean the poly off the glass while it was still wet or wait till it was dry. On regular glass I wait till it is dry and a razor blade takes it off quite well. But I can see how with leaded glass it might be difficult.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Marvin. Big mistake. It was a dry brush that should have been touched to paper before the first lay down. To be honest there wasn't enough to bother with. It wasn't noticeable so I left it. Thanx for the tip. best . . . paul

I ruined the finish on the top of an all-wood kitchen free-standing island. I striped it and was going to refinish it with poly the edge was not veneered and would not stain. I have used an oil primer and have applied chalk paint which caused the wood grain to raise. I want to use Oil base poly to finish it but am wondering if I can fix the raised wood grain with the poly. If so how?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Carole. Grain raise is common whenever wood is moistened. Grain raise is best handled with a very light sanding. Since you don't want to remove a lot of the paint you can do a VERY LIGHT SANDING with 220 or 300 grot sandpaper. best . . . paul

Hi Paul followed all your suggestions on applying polyurethane on a oak kitchen table i am at 6 coats of thinned poly but one question i have some of the coating has soaked into the grains leaving very small striations , will polish hang in these areas or is this a acceptable look when finished . oh and by the way the table looks great and thank you very much for sharing your knowledge

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Victor. A perfectly smooth finish comes from sanding bare wood and then using sealers and grain fillers between coats. This creates a high gloss, deep reflective finish which is not too popular these days. A more satiny, natural wood look is in. I don't like waxes and polishes won't fill anything (microscopic thin). I personally would leave it. Glad it turned out. best . . . paul

What do you do with your brush between applications? ( I put mine in mineral spirits then place it in a zip lock back )

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey ttfred. I anal. I buy very expensive brushes and clean them thoroughly after each and every use. My brushes typically last decades. Since I get asked this question a LOT, I made this video: "Proper Brush Cleaning - Paint, Polyurethane, Varnish, Shellac". kzread.info/dash/bejne/hpqTqc2FgbTQdqQ.html&ab_channel=paulsDIYsolutions People must really dread cleaning brushes. I don't get it. To me its part of the process. best . . . paul

I’m new to working with wood and wood products, so pardon me the silly questions. I sanded my birch wood counter top and I will be using water based wood stain before the polyurethane. Do I need to do the 3:1 on my products? Do I need to use mineral spirits for my water based products?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Vanessa. We all started somewhere. Do not thin the stain, use it full strength. I would strongly recommend oil based polyurethane for beginners. Try to avoid the ultra fast drying variety. Oil based polyurethane sets up (dries to touch) 3 x slower than water based. This is a huge advantage since it allows bubbles time to pop, brush marks time to settle and small puddles a chance to level. Yes thin every coat (even the last one 3:1). Use water if you are staying with water based polyurethane and mineral spirits if you decide to use oil based. Remember the old saying OIL AND WATER DON"T MIX for all your future painting or clear coating endeavors. Lastly be sure to use a good brush for good results. Natural bristle for oil and synthetic for water based. Hope that helps. I'm here so ask away. best . . . paul

If I want 4 coats for a new raw exterior storm door, should I do 4 coats on one side (24 hr dry time between coats) then flip and do 4 coats on the other side (24 hr dry time between coats)? Or do one side, flip and do other side, and repeat 4 times?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Steve. I would finish one side then flip. Just easier and will assure less chance of flipping damage. best . . . paul

Do you have to sand between coats? I'm doing my retreaded stairs so that looks like a lot of work. When can I walk on them.

@paulsDIYsolutions

5 жыл бұрын

Hey mgmomma1. I always do very quick and light sanding with a 220 grit sandpaper the day after application (minimum 8 hours). For stairs I would do 3 coats. You can walk on them with socks 24 hours after the last application. I wouldn't walk with shoes for a least two weeks. best . . . paul

@mgmomma1

5 жыл бұрын

paulsDIYsolutions thanks for the prompt reply. I guess I'll be sleeping on my couch for a quite awhile. I'd like to just hire someone but I'm told it's quite costly

@jeffstone2585

3 жыл бұрын

Yes you have to sand between coats if you want a nice smooth finish. If you don’t care that much about the final product, no. But then this is probably not the video for you. Just slap a few coats on and leave it at that.

Im so sorry Im bombarding you with questions, hut u really got us motivated to varnish all of our doors. for interior doors,that I beieve are virgin, do you suggest two coats of the diluted, 25%? and for exterior doors, three coats, and are the ratios the same? thanks for all the specifics

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Andrea. You got it. Exactly the same. Just make sure for exterior doors you are using exterior rated polyurethane or spar varnish. Both are softer and have UV blockers in them.

The best demonstration I have seen so far, but I have a question, I need to fix my high end dresser, it is damaged in the middle, many nail polish marks and some scratches. Should I redo the whole dresser top for the best result or it is possible to fix and varnish the damages in the middle?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Irinat. If you are going to tackle it yourself I would recommend doing the entire top. It's really hard to spot treat. I would personally do it that way. Now that said, there are professional refinishers who have the eye and skill to spot finish (I'm not one of them). best . . . paul

@irinat9521

3 жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions thank you

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Welcome

I'm retreading my stairs and there's a small landing .What do I put on a 41inx41in landing ? Sheet of hardwood or natural hardwood ? My top floor has laminate so I don't want to put that there ...thx

@paulsDIYsolutions

5 жыл бұрын

Hey mgmomma. I don't like using plywood on floors. The veneer is thin and something could accidentally cut through it. best . . . paul

I don't know if I missed something or it's related to the "spar" variety because of the dark color, are you using a stain+poly?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey yeah. Spar varnish is dark out of the can. best . . . paul

I stained and clear coated my full lite storm door in 2020 following your instructions. Process went smoothly and turned out gorgeous. Door faces east, full sun from sunrise to noon and rain. Recently noticed that the clear coat is flaking off ONLY on the exterior bottom sash bead. Guessing the rain runs down the full length window and hits this trim, which may wear it out faster over time? Do I need to sand to bare wood, restain and clearcoat again? Or is there a way I can remove just the clearcoat gently and reapply 2-3 coats on that bead sash? Additionally, would you recommend taking the door off and giving it a refresh top coat since it has been a couple years?

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Steve. I assume you used an exterior rated clearcoat. Shouldn't flake. I would take it down to bare wood and go with oil based spar varnish. As far as the door it's your call. As long as the finsih is intact I would do a wash down with a strong detergent like tri sodium phospahte then a quick scruff sand with a 180 should sufice. best . . . paul

@slappy1965

2 жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions Yes, I applied 4 coats of McCloskey Man O War Spar Varnish. So, just a clean and light sand, then apply spar varnish again? Don’t sand through the stain?

@paulsDIYsolutions

2 жыл бұрын

@@slappy1965 Yeah. The object is just to remove any grime and then give the old coat a little scratch for the new coat to grab onto. Definitely don't sand hard enough to cut throuigh to the stain.

I'm using Varathane Ultimate Polyurethane Oil base and label says "Use full strength. Do not thin.". Your video was great, but now I'm not sure if I can safely thin this product. Do you have any ideas/comments? Thank You

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Diane. In recent years the EPA has stepped in and made manufacturers remove some of the volatile chemicals. This has thickened their products to a point it spreads like molasses. Manufacturers become liable for violating EPA regulations and recommending thinning falls under that umbrella. Company lawyers have told manufacturers to protect themselves by the wording "DO NOT THIN". Personally I thin all brands of polyurethane because I want an even, flawless, professional looking finish. best . . . paul

Paul-- Love the videos and advice. I have been stripping, conditioning, staining and now have used polyurethane on my 1910 built in maple bookcase. I'm pretty impressed you've got me here. haha. Question......I purchased some very old leaded/bubble glass cabinet doors, wood is unknown but it's maple or oak. I am gonna use them on the bookcase....I built a great frame for the doors to hang on, I sanded down the old doors wood, used 80/120/220 grit, conditioned the wood with minwax conditioner, waited 20 minutes, applied the stain......but unlike the bookcase, the stain slightly streaked and after 24 hours, it's still slightly tacky. Maybe I didn't sand enough? Thought I did. Any advice?

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

Hey David. Sounds like a nice project, congrats!! You didn't mention it but I'm sure you wiped all the excess stain off once it started showing some dry spots, right? Second: with conditioner I like to apply my stain immediately after I've wiped off the excess conditioner. Conditioner is actually a wood sealer that blocks the majority of open pores and closes off cut and damaged cell membranes. So dry conditioner will cause a lot of the stain to just lay there (taking longer to dry). While manufacturers recommend applying the stain after a few minutes I personally find more stain gets absorbed while the conditioner is still damp. The dry time shrinks with this procedures as well. The last issue could be temperature and humidity where you are at. No wait just thinking as I reread this. Hard Maple (there are different Maples) is a real closed pore wood that resists staining even without a conditioner. How did the color turn out? Did it take any stain??

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

One more thing just occurred to me. I stop at a 180 grit before staining when polyurethane, shellac or lacquer will the final clear coat. Sanding too fine is another way to clog pores and retard stain absorption. 220 isn't terrible as long as you didn't oversand and you blew out the pores with an air compressor or vacuumed with a healthy shop vac. Sorry for all this but once we figure out the potential issue we can simply rectify.

@paulsDIYsolutions

3 жыл бұрын

One more thing just occurred to me. I stop at a 180 grit before staining when polyurethane, shellac or lacquer will the final clear coat. Sanding too fine is another way to clog pores and retard stain absorption. 220 isn't terrible as long as you didn't oversand and you blew out the pores with an air compressor or vacuumed with a healthy shop vac. Sorry for all this but once we figure out the potential issue we can simply rectify.

@TheHudson601

3 жыл бұрын

@@paulsDIYsolutions So---Thank you for replying. The maple bookcase took the stain very well. The poly it took really well except the mantle. Just seems some areas are drier than others. Regarding doors---The doors, I am unclear of wood type. Seems hard wood though. I googled and tried a rag with mineral spirits but the stain I did 24 hours ago was still not dry so, the mineral spirits just removed the still wet stain. I am in Tacoma, so maybe weather, but I am indoors and the maple took stain. Hmmmmm.....I could just poly coat and let that cover it and dry

@TheHudson601

3 жыл бұрын

I got these doors recently from upstate NY. I don't anything about the wood.