Im proud of you jehu, i been watching you for about a year now and im glad to see youre growing a lot. Youre working really hard and you deserve even more blessings your way. Thanks for the knowledge. Peace

AND... you can add an ATS in front of the MTS. This automatically switches between grid and powerwall/inverter power. You can use it in either direction. 1) You can use grid as 'generator' power and powerall as 'grid' power - in this case the grid will power things if grid is available and will auto-switch to powerwall if grid power goes off. 2) The alternative is grid is grid and powerall is generator - in this case, the powerwall will take over if it senses power coming from the inverter. I do this at my home - turning the inverter on when the powerwall charges up enough and then off as the powerwall drains to cut-off voltage. This let's me consume my off-grid power 'automatically' switching back and forth between powerwall and grid. Note: UPSs for computer/senstative circuits take care letting things run smoothly during switch overs between grid and powerwall.

I, personally, would write the inverter to the cord socket. For Me, that would make the most sense because I also have a 20kw diesel generator. It just gives options. You have come a long way, a lot more than I have. I've been following your work for 4 years now. Take Care and be safe, John

This design reaffirms why I like the DIN rail style consumer units we have in the UK (and I assume Europe), as you can get DIN rail changeover switches that switch everything over with one switch, plus you get the benefits of the RCD/GFCIs and Circuit Breakers still being in the circuit while connected to the auxiliary power. I've even seen a Chinese made automatic switch which can do it for you but I don't know if I'd trust installing it to manage the power of my whole house.

I purposely have not purchased a single thing until after you finish and all your videos are posted. Thanks for the cool project.

@richardle7469

4 жыл бұрын

Only downside is, no more 16% off 4-6 packs.. order 4. .. and discount was like 4x 57=228. Tax/shipping was 250ish, then discount. Total 218..

@garrettscott4094

4 жыл бұрын

@@richardle7469 too true. Maybe we can get another discount once he finishes everything.

Hey dude, big fan of your channel. Looking to shift some of my mushroom farm onto batteries, and your videos are really inspirational! Thanks

3:35 It's called a ring circuit. It was common when copper was expensive and wanted to increase the ampacity of the circuit without using larger diameter wires or cable.

@peterg.8245

4 жыл бұрын

Not under US NEC

@StringerNews1

4 жыл бұрын

13A (230V) ring circuits are (or were) common in the UK for home lighting. The difference being that each end of the bus was powered by only one breaker, so the circuit was actually protected (two breakers doubles the threshold before a breaker trips, and even if one trips, the other is still live) _and_ mandated a fuse in every power plug. No, it's not allowed in the US.

Thanks Jehu, appreciate your time an versos very much. Have a great Easter weekend. M

That will work for backup power in case the mains power fails, or for load shedding during peak demand times, but with caveats. What I see looks consistent with a distribution panel for 3-phase, 4-wire wye, but without knowing voltages I wouldn't jump to that conclusion. There are other 4-wire configurations like wild-leg delta, so I'd measure leg-leg and leg-neutral voltages first. If all the leg-leg voltages are 208, and all leg-neutral voltages are 120, then it's probably a 120/208 wye panel. If there's 120, 208 _and_ 240 available, then it's likely a wild-leg delta configuration. If it's the latter, you need to be very careful because 208 and 240 aren't "close enough", you will need to make sure that 240 equipment (especially motors, incl. A/C) is getting 240, and that 208 equipment (if any) is getting 208. I see a few double-gang breakers, indicating that there are phase-phase loads, and a couple that I don't recognize. What I don't see are any 3-gang breakers for 3-phase motors or high current single-phase equipment like HVAC, heavy machinery or an electric water heater. I can only guess that there's no heavy industry, that gas is used for heating, and no 3-phase car chargers. Most of the wires look like they're suitable for 15, maybe 20A loads, except for the red & black pair coming from the bottom right breaker, going to what looks like a rubber sheathed cable. I'm guessing that's for vehicle charging. Because I'm not hearing any clear knowledge about the type and voltages of the 3-phase system, and because of the bad wiring removed, I'd double-check everything. Those phase-phase circuits especially. If they're 240V, make sure whatever they go to is for 240, not "208-230" and vice versa. For the grid tie, there's plenty of room on the panel for 3 or 6 15A circuit breakers, one for each 1000W unit. I don't know what kind of hours you keep, but if you're out of the shop during peak demand hours, you might consider using the standby power bank to keep whatever needs power at all times, shutting down everything else, and using the grid tie to do nothing but sell power to the utility at the highest rate. So if the peak time is 6-9PM, you'd size the battery, solar panels and inverters to be able to run out the battery in 3 hours, and back to a full charge in a day of daylight. To be really slick, you could use an automatic transfer switch to remove your necessary loads from the grid at 6, and turn on the grid tie. You could even use mains power at the lowest rate of the day to recharge the batteries at least partially.

OK was wondering while watching if this was an ABT but you cleared that up by saying when the goes out, right, you manually switch over to the battery backup and switch back when the power comes back on, manually.

Hi there just a quick one. I'd leave the generator socket on the front and just plug in a plug with NO wire connection so that it is there if you need it

I got 8 packs, now just waiting on big bms for it.. might have to use buck converter 36v to 24v

Great job!

The gen input is disconnected from grid tie and never get tied to grid. So you would be better to leave the plugin so in a emergency like you need to maintain your power wall for some reason and power goes out you still have option to tie something else in like another power wall or generator if needed right away. The UL approvals for a transfer switch is that an open plugin like that will never be live when not plugged in.

Jehu you should open a contest email account so that people can mail that inbox directly with answers that way as its a separate mailbox it would be easier for you to manage, just a suggestion hope it helps, keep up the energy (ha pun) love your content.

I have been thinking about purchasing a couple of these battery modules, but I need to know it's weight and size. Thanks

I have a question, on the Daly BMS. Have you used a smart one with Bluetooth and the other features? If so can you do a nice video of it. I’m doing a 8S System. Thanks and have been enjoying your videos.

@bodavis3819

3 жыл бұрын

I have one, and I love it. I just have it on a 4s, and it allows me to adjust everything perfectly to run a 12v inverter, perfect charging cutoff 16v. Love it.

Have you done a video for a whole house off the grid battery and solar system? I’d love to see one.

I wanna see an lto 66160 wall but they are pricey but 40ah with only 6 so really how many do you really need I wonder? How many would equal out to what you built? Same with the 38120's? So I have been buying them like crazy over the last few months. I've built three 64ah banks, one 48ah, and one 32ah bank. A pw is next up on the list. Dunno if I should go small cell or large cell to build it....

Would like to install a power wall here in Canada as our electrical bill also has time of day rates.

Do you have a source for the 10S BMS leads ?

Love the buses

Hey do you have a link for 48v grid tie inverter or inverter/charger

Not every home... I live in Tulsa, Ok and power is 10¢/Wh without peaking and here in the city I’ve had maybe 4hrs outage in the past 12/mo. I’ve been looking at natural gas generators, Oklahoma being a major natural gas producer and it being super cheap, but I could never justify the expense under current conditions.

@StringerNews1

4 жыл бұрын

Here in New Mexico (also a petroleum producer) the rates are 8¢ for the first 450 kWh, 12¢ for the second and 15¢ after that, and that's the summertime rate. We pay more during the hot months, and the base rate the other 9 months. The power rarely goes out here, and when it does, the outages are fairly short. Natural gas is really cheap here too, and would be the obvious choice if we ever had extended outages. If I was still in tornado alley, I'd have a gas-powered generator (and a reasonable backup supply of propane), and fire it up when severe weather was close. I couldn't do that living in a high-rise, but did keep some AGM deep cycle batteries to run stuff during an outage. Because there's no severe weather or other natural disruptions (aside from the occasional raccoon climbing into a power station) here, I figure that any extended outage will be more intentional, and thus likely to wipe out all the utilities. So I have enough (now lithium) battery storage and solar power to recharge during the day to keep going indefinitely, albeit without A/C. When the whole city is blacked out, a house making noise from a generator or A/C compressor tends to attract all the wrong kind of people, but solar cells up on top of a flat roof can't be seen from street level.

Don't forget the PGE planned wildfire outages. Is the grid tie system your next video project. That is what I need. I have a Tesla Powerwall but it does not support my running the A/C and I can't see spending another 13 grand for another power wall. An additional 15-20KW grid tie battery system would be perfect. What batteries are you using for that so I can start accumulating them? If you have already done a video on starting please point me to it. Am I "That guy" :-)?

What you need is a correctly sized transfer switch. Find the total amps you would draw. Then people pull you critical loads to a critical loaf

@jehugarcia aren’t you worried about cooling and stacking the cells this dense ?

@jehugarcia

4 жыл бұрын

No

I would rather have an inverter that can transfer between generator battery solar grid on its own, so im looking into hybrid inverters that can power all or most of the house all while being able to send power to or get power from the grid ( grid interactive) use generator power to compensate or charge while using solar/battery power, and have so.e sort of wiring i can use to controll a whole house transfer swicth

Hola jehu como está q bonito proyecto me gustaría uno como lo está haciendo

ugggg i need those metal boxes!!! where do i get those?! :)

Dont a UPS already have automatic transfer switch?

@jamess1787

4 жыл бұрын

A main Inline UPS, yes.

How does not this feed back power to the grid now.

Is that not 3 phase so you would get 208volt not 240

Where is your Weekly Monday Q and A 7pm Live stream?

I want to know where he gets those metal enclosures at.

@fezdk

4 жыл бұрын

I'm pretty sure he said in another video, that he bought sheets of metal and bent it out to the enclosure.

@TriableMilk09

4 жыл бұрын

@@fezdk hmm... interesting. Cuz I've been looking everywhere and I could not find somewhere who sells them. All I found was either too big or just a basic electrical junction box.

@iKingRPG

3 жыл бұрын

@@TriableMilk09 yeah he buys the metal then cuts them and everything

@akyak333

3 жыл бұрын

any large electrical supply house can give you various brand catalogues for all size enclosures.

Get an AIMS 12.000 watt 48 volt low frequency split phase inverter .

why not build automatic switch

Going Green 👍

Well here I am still in Face Book Jail. I gutted all modules and am testing all cells. Will reload the Modules as one 40 P cell. Configure them as 7S . If I was starting Fresh I would think about doing it this way.

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How often does your power go out so that you need to invest all that just to prevent it? If it is for sensitive equipment like PCs, there are already cheap UPSes, laptops are their own UPSes anyway... How much work do you need to do with your lift an power tools during those few moments than the power is out? Seems totally unnecessary...

I was thinking that fire extinguisher should be moved so you don't have to go into the fire to grab it..🤔

if we called solar something like photon farming or another catchy term maybe people would get more interested lol

where can i buy legit and good quality batteries?

@jehugarcia

4 жыл бұрын

Jag35.com

I have the answer to your question

I found the answer and messaged you on facebook

Why not just power your whole workshop with solar in an off-grid configuration?

@peterg.8245

4 жыл бұрын

Solar in a leased commercial building? Also $$$ and he’s basically time shifting his consumption like a DVR. Buy low and use high!!!

@wobbleszo

4 жыл бұрын

@@peterg.8245 Didn't know he was leasing the location. I understand the kWh peak pricing concerns.

I think I have the answer

#14 wire is good for 15 amps. #12 wire is good for 20 amps.

I sent you a dm on Facebook with the answer ☺️

Stereo mic? Right ear ain't happy.

Answer Sent - WobBor

Im sure it breaks the Electric Company's Heart to HAVE To Charge its Hostages More Money. 😂😂 I see Family members of the Rich Electric Company getting therapy for their guilt. 😂😂😂

Running appliances, including 3 phase equipment on 120/240v? Sounds terrible. Sure, works with single phase equipment, but 3-phase heaters, air conditioners, shop lighting? Something smells TERRIBLE about this. Should use 3-phase inverter with 3-phase supply....

@StringerNews1

4 жыл бұрын

I'd say "second that" but I actually warned against it after the last video. No, mixing single-phase and 3-phase equipment is a VERY bad idea! If the color codes are correct, the power coming in is 3-phase wye (Y) and each leg to neutral is 120V. This can be used to power 3-phase 208V induction motors no problem, but running the same motor using unmodified 240V split-phase is a good way to ruin both the motor and inverter. There are ways to start 3-phase motors to run on single phase, and some motors have jumpers for operation on different types of circuits, but it's not an "autoconfigure" thing. The single phase transfer switch may be usable if it's used _only_ for 120V circuits, so the ganged breakers would need to be separated, and rewired to have hot-neutral connections. Of course the wiring color codes are confusing for use with a 3-phase system that already uses red and black for other things. A halfway good electrician would use color electrical tape to mark the appropriate phase and neutral colors at each end of those wires. (A fully good one would refuse to hook it up.) I'm on split-phase at home, and my A/C units take 3-wire 240V AC (L1, L2 & ground) so in a power outage I can run them from a single phase 240V inverter, or a 120V one through a step-up transformer. So I can run the A/C during short outages, using my regular 120V equipment, but if the outage went into a second day, I'd load-shed the A/C anyway. If the shop A/C is 3-phase, forget it. If the idea here is to provide emergency backup power, my advice is to not put anything up on the lift when the power might go out. If you really must, I'd read the fine manual, and see if there's an emergency power-out way to get the car down, or find out what kind of motor it uses, and be prepared to do some rewiring for temporary emergency use.

@jamess1787

4 жыл бұрын

@@StringerNews1 definitely good points made. Yeah, delta configurations share the same neutral, I could only imagine what could happen in a situation like 1 of the fuses blew on the transformers: what kind of issues this configuration would cause if it was fired up or automated. I would like to see Jehu connect this thing properly.

@StringerNews1

4 жыл бұрын

@@jamess1787 Actually delta has no neutral, which is why it's preferred for power transmission and induction motors, because you only need three conductors (plus a safety ground for a motor). Wye is the one that wires the secondaries together to make a neutral for all phases. You can use center tapped secondaries in delta to make split-phase in either configuration, which is why it gets pretty complex. In both cases the phases are 120 degrees apart, and that's why it's a bad idea to try to try to use pahse-phase like split phase.

@jgren4048

3 жыл бұрын

Yes..... but this panel has no 3 phase equipment connected at least if the breakers are installed correctly. All of the single breakers will provide 120v to the loads same as house services. The Biggest problem Jehu May run into here, is if he has three phases sharing a single neutral(white). Because if he does, and connects all three phases to the single phase transfer switch, two of those loads will Double the neutral load instead of minimizing it. A fully good electrician would be able to know the difference and probably only a few circuits will need rewriting, as there are 11 neutrals, 17 individual hot conductors, and of those 4 go to single phase 208 loads which may not have a neutral needed

You are doing too much work

I don't know why your building this power wall you were suppose to make a video using your pcb's 😡

@jehugarcia

4 жыл бұрын

I’m building many things