This is a great tool for a shop doing small engine repair and DIY folks Works great

Great video! A "few" notes - Order some extra coarse stones. 15500 80 grit especially if you are honing to oversize pistons like I am. Stones are cheap and replacement blocks and re-sleeving aren't. I eliminated taper first, then roughed in with coarse stones on all cylinder before moving to finer stones for final dimensions. That's [#of cylinders] x [thousandths to be removed] of practice. You'll be a pro by the time you do the final dimensions with fine stones. I ordered the 280 stones as well since ring manufacturer prefers a finer finish. If you have taper to start with you will likely end with some taper. Stones are a sacrificial medium. They will partially sacrifice more at the tight areas and it will only get worst as you move from cylinder to cylinder. Also true if you have wavy cylinder walls. If you want to get picky have a set of fresh coarse stones for each cylinder. I used a set for 2 cylinders with no issues. I had 4.5 to 7 thousandth taper across my cylinders. Sacrificed a set of coarse stones to shim the bottom with a few layers of paper between stone frame and hone bracket to fix that before honing to 20 over. The paper formed an L to lift and to move stone forward a little. I used six layers of printer paper; long strip folded 3 times. This will wear that set of stones into a taper and no longer be good for straight honing. Mark your stones for easy identification. Once paired don't let them get mixed up. Ended up with a half thou of taper when done. Specs are 0.0006 thou standard on EJ2.5 so happy with that. As the taper stones wear you can't flip the stones for a fresh edge so I would set two inches of hone in the cylinder and tighten then use sanding board to knock down the top of stones so the bottom is doing most of the work; loosen and move to bottom. I drew vertical sharpie lines from bottom to top of cylinder to see if I was removing from the right areas. Once taper is gone you will get even drill resistance when you pull the stones upward or more resistance if you over honed. I had 0.015 to remove for 20 oversize pistons so I had a lot of material to play with to get it right and try different strategies. If you have a boxer or other engine that doesn't let you push past the bottom of cylinder you will also have to contend with taper as you go. Pay attention to that. Never measure the top of cylinder without checking bottom. A layer of paper shim might be all you need. My focus is on the area of cylinder where the piston skirt makes contact. Subaru's are slap happy if that is too big. The top just has to be big enough for piston install and rings do the rest. I used 4 data points over the length of cylinder. Dedicate a sheet of paper for notes on each cylinder. I considered the top at zero and recorded differences at 3 lower positions. I.E. +.5; +1.5; +3.5. When you begin set the tension on the wrist pin axis which is generally tighter until you have even resistance on wristpin and thrust axis. You'll feel it! Perfectly round holes after that. If you set on the thrust axis you can also lock up, damage stones or cylinder wall. With boxer engines with wristpin holes keep that hone oscillating. The stones will wear less at the holes and cut a groove if you don't. No aggressive cutting on boxers with wristpin holes. Order some fast epoxy. I had several stones separate from the metal frames and was able to put them back on for use. Lisle gets cheap on the glue so I used it more liberally and they never came off again. If you get broken stones glue back on and use those for taper honing. Order or find a container to store your stones in safely. The case is nice but if it is shaken the mass of the hone can break and chip the stones. Ace Ventura delivered mine so they came pre damaged and Lisle sent me some replacements. The bore gage he is using is working really well but double check against the caliper often. Easy to bumps the face even when locked down. Also clean cylinder contact surfaces before measuring so you don't "hone" the bore gauge tips while taking measurements or measure the grit left in the cylinder. I have a 0.0004-0.0012 piston to wall clearance so wouldn't take much to over hone. I also would put two stones working faces together and work them against each other to flatten them out before use. Periodically check them and repeat as needed especially before moving to another cylinder. I honed dry with the coarse stones but finished with the medium and fine stones wet. Just put a lubricant on the wipers. If the coarse stones chatter back off tension. It's tempting, especially if you have a high torque spade drill, to remove material fast but this can also cause the stones to separate from support frame and it will lock up spinning the drill and twisting your wrists. Keep engine block and pistons at same temp for measuring or let them stabilize as you do your final dimensions. 68 degrees at all times isn't feasible. When getting close to final dimensions with finer stones let temps stabilize, honing generates heat. The tortoise wins this race, the hare buys a replacement block and pays a machinist to do it. Give yourself plenty of time and walk away for a while if you run into trouble, it'll come to you. That's all I got! Good luck and thumbs up this video.

@1nvertedReality

Жыл бұрын

And stuff rags into cylinders your not honing. As anal as I was I still started measuring wrong holes a couple times thinking WTF! Don't be me!😆

@fixitorleaveit4393

Жыл бұрын

Well, that was a very very informative! Thank you. I did it for the very first time in my life and I'm planning on doing it again. Patience is the key! And those waves, taper and whatnot is totally spot on in your comment. Thank you very much and also good luck on your projects, sir! ✌️

@1nvertedReality

Жыл бұрын

@@fixitorleaveit4393 I have this 2.5 subi in the bag and doing a Vortec 5.7l next to a 383 stroker for my 98 GMC. Have had enough bad experience with machine shops to put in the time on this to do it myself. Once I got it dialed in it has been like meditation. Love it. Good luck with your next project to. Cheers

@N-Lee

8 ай бұрын

@1nvertedReality Thanks ! I followed your instructions and my SBC V8 project @.020 over worked perfect. I did the first .015 dry so let me add the following: IF DOING THIS DRY, WEAR A DUST MASK ! 😷 After doing the first cylinder, I began hocking up Black Phlegm. Since the Stones didn't wear too much, I can figure out that the Blackness was mostly Cast Iron Dust. After 8 cylinders, even with ventilation in my shop, everything is covered in Black Dust. I took a Hot Soapy Shower afterward and threw my work clothes in the washer. ☠

I have honed so many cylinders with this exact hone. Over the course of time I've discovered I can correct cylinder taper out of round everything with this hone it just takes a lot of time small shims to adjust the angle of and knowing how much pressure to put on the stones. I use the 80 grit with a torque plate and I can get it pretty damn straight! Then I bring it up with a 220 grit stones to the final size then I use a BRS ball hone for final finish.

@fixitorleaveit4393

5 ай бұрын

Great idea with those shims. I was actually able to get rid of taper but one part of stones was getting worn out faster and I had no idea what to do with it besides swapping them out for a new set. Did you use some lubricant or did you hone it dry?

@EsmondPerformanceEngines

5 ай бұрын

@@fixitorleaveit4393 the stones tend to wear on the bottom faster than the top. I typically have to put a .004 feeler gauge under the bottom side after honing for a while I'll remove the stones and I will rub them together and then rinse them off rub them together rinse them off I just use mineral oil for the lube

superb video, thanks so much🙏

Amazing video!

Awesome instructions

You need a trueing cylinder to parallel the stones after they're installed in the racks., number them so they always go back in the same rack. You can use an old engine block for trueing by honing first from the top then from the bottom until the cylinder is parallel with no taper. After doing this on a couple of cylinders your stones will be wiped true.

@AJ........

2 ай бұрын

Or put it on a lathe with a single point diamond wheel dresser in the tool post and travel the length of the stones making it true

Excellent info

@fixitorleaveit4393

Жыл бұрын

Thank you :)

Nice Video

@fixitorleaveit4393

9 ай бұрын

Thank you

That s for sharing. Genius

@fixitorleaveit4393

Жыл бұрын

Thank you for watching, hope you enjoyed it!

That was a great video , I'll get some measuring tools and do it right , Quality is job one , and your method probably turns out to be a close 2nd to a machine shop

@fixitorleaveit4393

Жыл бұрын

Thank you. I believe though that a hand can't beat the machine but it can be done within specifications :)

It the tool square up you cylinders if they out of round? Thank you. I found your video very informative.

@fixitorleaveit4393

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Yes, if you set it up correctly it acts like a drill bit basically. When you dry honing I highly recommend to make some marks with a sharpie or something similar inside the cylinder so you know how the stones work, where they take material off. It takes a lot of measurements, patience.

@johnkomosa4089

Жыл бұрын

Yes, like a straight walled parellel reemer when you get it set up like you showed. Slow patience. Nice explanation.

Hello, I hope you can help me explain. Besides the 2 stones, what use are the remaining 2 brooms? ,, I look forward to your explanation,, Thank

@fixitorleaveit4393

5 ай бұрын

I'm pretty sure besides cleaning the cylinder wall it's also meant to keep the honing tool centered in the cylinder. Imagine they're not there and it's rotating just with 2 stones sitting on opposite sides. I believe that wouldn't have worked well.

@dungvuanh3634

5 ай бұрын

@@fixitorleaveit4393 I really appreciate this is a satisfactory explanation,,thank you for sharing,,wishing you and your family happiness

After you have used the lisle 15000, would you purchase it again, knowing what you've learned.??

@fixitorleaveit4393

7 ай бұрын

I'd buy another brand just to see how it works. But if I wouldn't like to try something else I'd definitely buy Lisle again.

Sandpaper? Could a person use something like 3M cubitron or ??? and cut strips from it and somehow fix them to the surface of the stones? Then you would have the most choice in grit size, and it would be cheaper than buying lots of stones, and the geometry of the stones could stay true permanently. I am doing a refresh / rebuild on a toyota 2gr-fe 6 cylinder with 200,000 miles. I want to avoid a machine shop, because I live in Nashville TN and I have never found competent machinists here because everyone is obsessed with country music :) . You think I'm just joking, but .... sometimes I get things done in Chattanooga TN because there are more tradesmen there. Maybe Cubitron abrasive is not the best? Also, I am scared I will have grit left inbeaded in the micro scratches of the cylinder, and that will prematurely wear out my new rings. Thoughts anyone?

What if the wood stick is warped? Or when sanding down the stone, you are "rocking" the stick making the stone even more rounded? Human error by "sanding" is not going to produce a perfectly flat stone. I use a file to try an flatten a part, but depending on the slightest amount of force placed on either end, will remove more material, making it uneven. I dont think a lisle tool will ever be precise enough to round out a cylinder or remove taper. Only a machine shop boring machine will achieve precision straight bores

@fixitorleaveit4393

2 жыл бұрын

I totally agree with you. I wanted to challenge myself and give it a try. And honestly I was getting a really good results until the stones gave up on me, not sure 100% why. It's a lot of sweat & swear and a lot of time spent on it with a questionable results. I still believe it's doable once you master the tool enough. I'm planning on doing K24 some day this way though.

Will Sunnen stones fit in this hone?

@fixitorleaveit4393

Жыл бұрын

I'm guessing it won't fit since every manufacturer makes its own system purposely not compatible with any other manufacturer 🤷‍♂️

@1crazypj

Жыл бұрын

I have heard they will but not having one haven't tried it. (I've got old AMMCO hones that are totally different) Looks like the Lisle set up is superior to the Sunnen one and less wasteful? Also has some 'extra's' compared to Sunnen to make things easier to set up or return to a setting

@briana3467

7 ай бұрын

No.

Is yours a USA item? I see USA and also CHINA for sale , and both are lisle 15000

@fixitorleaveit4393

Жыл бұрын

Not sure to be honest, I bought it online from the US online shop though.

@philliphall5198

Жыл бұрын

Buy the us model

Ban cho minh 1 cai như vây

This hone is not designed to hone fully closed. You need to get closer to the hone/ boring size to measure it .

@fixitorleaveit4393

Жыл бұрын

Fully closed? What is that?

Sandpaper grit will impregnate the stones.

@fixitorleaveit4393

Жыл бұрын

It might but I always used compressed air to get rid off dust 🤷‍♂️

En español

@fixitorleaveit4393

Жыл бұрын

Španielsky bohužiaľ neviem, ale po slovensky by som mohol skúsiť.

You talk to much and do nothing

@fixitorleaveit4393

Жыл бұрын

I don't talk TO much I talk to myself

@johnkomosa4089

Жыл бұрын

Your wrong, he showed me how to assemble the hone, and he was generous to help me out. So I am thankful for this video.

. Как называется этот инструмент

@fixitorleaveit4393

5 ай бұрын

I hope this translation is correct : этот инструмент представляет собой хонинговальный инструмент, который мягко шлифует поверхность цилиндра