Honda Accord Rust Hole Treatment Using Eastwood Paints

Автокөліктер мен көлік құралдары

Start to 8:30 - Chipping out rust and rough cleaning
8:30 to 11:50 - washing and drying affected areas
11:51 to 17:49 - Application of Eastwood Internal Frame Coating
17:50 to 19:16 - Eastwood Internal Frame Coating after drying
19:17 to End - Eastwood Rust Encapsulator overcoat after spraying
This is some crude video of some winterizing work on my 1999 Honda Accord, which was featured in my videos of overhauling the severely damaged automatic transmission.
This show what you can do with rust holes that you just aren't going to fix properly with new metal. It seems to me that this is the best way to do it, and Eastwood is the gold standard of restoration supplies. The Internal Frame Coating and Rust Encapsulator used came in aerosol with a 24" extension tube with a nozzle that produces a forward facing conical spray pattern. I cut a length of mig wire and put it inside the tube so I could form it a little easier and make it more rigid.
The Marine Clean degreaser I used is a POR-15 brand, and is the most effective degreaser I've ever used. It's the first prep chemical used before using POR-15 rust preventive paint. It also contains acid that adds some etching action to bare metal and leaves it really clean and thirsty for the correct kind of paint.
I also apologize for the length/boringness of the video. I cannot speed up video with the KZread video editor and had to omit a lot more busy work to make it this short. I had intended to have much of the video at high speed. If I get a 3rd party video editor, I'll surely remake this.
Internal Frame Coating:
www.eastwood.com/internal-fram...
Rust Encapsulator:
www.eastwood.com/ew-rust-encap...
Marine Clean, now called POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser:
www.por15.com/POR-15-Cleaner-D...

Пікірлер: 18

  • @alienbones04
    @alienbones049 жыл бұрын

    I plan on doing the same to my S10. All the research I've done, Eastwood looks like the best and easiest. To seal up the holes and large open areas you could cut a piece of sheet metal, that's larger than the open area, and pop rivet it on with a silicon sealer either around the seam or put on like a gasket. Make sure to treat the added sheet metal with some sort of rust prevention, but it looks like you on top of that in this vid.

  • @ifixmycarmyself2502
    @ifixmycarmyself25028 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for the video. Excellent treatment but very much to late, by 10 years I would say. That product and the money are best spent on a new car, before, the rust has kicked in. At this point welding is the only thing that can prolong the life of that bucket, together with many hours of work. Sadly that product is a hell to take away, because you have to before starting any welding. You have yourself a excellent vinter project.

  • @arealsourapple
    @arealsourapple9 жыл бұрын

    That's damn scary...that Accord is ready for the yard.

  • @Fopeano

    @Fopeano

    9 жыл бұрын

    Not even close, man. This car drives like it's new, and anybody who drives/rides in it is very surprised at how nice it is. Completely smooth quiet ride with perfect engine, trans, and brake performance. I was doing 50mph 360s in the snow in an empty parking lot with it not more than an hour ago. I suppose I wouldn't jump the thing over railroad tracks with it like that. I may go in there in a year or two and do up some new metal. Take it from me, I'm a 15 year veteran of snowbelt rust rehab. Every old car here has bolts under it that look like pinecones. Everyday, what was once metal comes rolling into the shop on four wheels for another repair. Layers of flaking salt upon layers of flaking rust, like a toaster strudel from hell. I even need a special MIG wire that's designed to tolerate corrosion.

  • @arealsourapple

    @arealsourapple

    9 жыл бұрын

    Haha okay. It just looks very structurally compromised to me. That said, I'm pointing fingers at you, but I have one pointing back at myself. I was driving around a very unsafe Dakota whose frame was about to snap. I ended up replacing the whole frame, and I used Eastwood's Internal Frame Coat just like you did. Also had to replace the driver's floor pan...and it remains to be seen how my (in)experience in sheet metal work holds up. I have some fairly major rust repair to do on my Subaru Outback, though it's not as structural as the rails..quarter panels and wheel arches are bad. Maybe I don't quite have 15 years experience yet, but I completely understand where you're coming from.

  • @InternetDude
    @InternetDude8 жыл бұрын

    Wow that's a crazy amount of rust. Ya know that's structural metal that's messed up, eh? I just bought an 02 F150 with some serious rust. The rockers are total swiss cheese and the previous owner filled it with spray foam and fiber strand bondo. I knew that though when I bought it. Just working up the courage to buy replacement panels and start hacking into the truck. We're close to winter now so it will have to wait til spring. Other than the rockers and surface rust on the frame, the truck is pretty minty.

  • @gospos1
    @gospos19 жыл бұрын

    Great job!...I am using Eastwood products as well and love them!!...haven't used the internal frame coating yet...how many cans did you use for your project?...Paul

  • @Fopeano

    @Fopeano

    9 жыл бұрын

    This shows 2 cans of Internal Frame Coating and 2 cans of Rust Encapsulator being used. 1 can of frame coating did both of the front frame rails, and the second can of did the massive hole in front of the rear wheel. It was followed in the same way with the Rust Encapsulator.

  • @hondamanvtec2894
    @hondamanvtec28945 жыл бұрын

    And this Kids... this is how most Nissan R32-33 And 34 is

  • @hondamanvtec2894
    @hondamanvtec28945 жыл бұрын

    Did you fix the holes?

  • @joeaverager
    @joeaverager5 жыл бұрын

    Crumblezones... I'd hate to be in that car in a hard crash. Without welding in new panels that car ought to be done.

  • @Fopeano

    @Fopeano

    5 жыл бұрын

    4 years ago to the day I posted this video, and I'm about to send this pile of shit into it's fourth winter since this was done. I can assure you it's rustier now than it was then. I've actually stepped in recent years up to this ThreeBond anti-rust spray that I can only get through Mitsubishi for $60 a can. It's works miracles like POR-15, but is a very different type of chemical. It definitely causes cancer in the state of California.

  • @piecies81
    @piecies819 жыл бұрын

    I just started to notice some of this rust on my '01 Accord, not anywhere near as bad, but it is in the same place as shown in the start of this video. Is anyone familiar with how this area rusts out? And what can I do right now to prevent it? It seems that the inside is full of sand, dirt and somehow water gets in there, although I don't see how. Right now I'm going to clean it out as best as I can, maybe drill a drain hole? I'm thinking about filling the void in with expanding foam, any thoughts on that?

  • @piecies81

    @piecies81

    9 жыл бұрын

    piecies81 Also, I noticed that if I pull the interior trim I can find the same rust spot reach inside the car.

  • @Fopeano

    @Fopeano

    9 жыл бұрын

    piecies81 Expanding foam has a couple of problems. First is that I've put too much into areas like that on a car and it expands with enough force to distort good metal. I once sprayed it up inside of the frame rails on a car, and it actually popped a hole in the side and a big "snake" of the stuff oozed out into a wheel well. The other problem is that it will not prevent water from getting in there, and it will take forever to dry when it does. It may seem like "if it fills the void, then water won' get in" but that's not the case. Water will get between the foam and the metal due to capillary action, but there won't be enough air circulating to evaporate the water away. You're better off making a drain hole, but for god's sakes, paint the newly exposed metal around the hole after. You should use POR-15.

  • @Fopeano

    @Fopeano

    9 жыл бұрын

    Jason Clemens In my case it was the body damage to the wheel well seen at 9:02. Other than that, the kind of silt that gets in there is mostly carried in by driving in the rain. The water spray carries the silt and wafts every which way up into the back of the car. Rust is almost always worse the farther back you go under a car because of this. The dirt gets everywhere, and the only way to avoid it is not to drive thru it. The plastic rocker panel covers on the car are a problem area for catching silt and dirt and are extremely difficult to clean without completely removing them, as with any car with such a design.

  • @AwakeDude911
    @AwakeDude9118 жыл бұрын

    so after the frame rot then you treat it? it not gonna pass your state inspection with that much frame rott..in MASS any rust it wont pass ...yes I said any....

  • @Fopeano

    @Fopeano

    8 жыл бұрын

    This is in NY, where he only way that rust can fail a car is if it is perforated completely through at a "suspension attachment point". I've certainly failed plenty of cars on that grounds, but you can't do it otherwise no matter how rusty it is everywhere else. NYSI as a whole is a joke, just to be clear on that.

Келесі