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Since the belts absorb so much on the first layer, maybe you should do the first layer with epoxy and dye only. Then follow up with the epoxy/diamond/dye on the second layer. Then it will not use so much of the diamond powder up front. As usual, another good informative video. Thank you.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I think that would be a much better way to do it for sure.

I will be watching all your vlogs, so much useful info! A lot of people don't have the $$$$ to spend on this equipment. Your Diy methods shall prove to be rather useful. Thanks!

@CurrentlyRockhounding

9 ай бұрын

I hear you there, I couldn't buy everything new if I wanted to so I like make things like this as well as restore old machines.

When I was administrator on a lapidary site a decade ago we published this information ( similar not exact) and we were informed by a lapidary retailer who recoats that we would be sued if we did not pull the info. It caused a lot of folks a lot of grief. Nice work.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

3 ай бұрын

That's funny, people who threaten lawsuits have never actually sued someone before and have no idea of the costs involved. Sounds like you're talking about Johnson Brothers here, if that's the case, I welcome them to say that to me! :)

@denttech2515

2 ай бұрын

What is there to sue over? If its Johnson Bros, I'll never buy from them again. There are no patents on mixing diamond powder with epoxy alone. Far too vague. It would have to be more specific. As in, a new tool design, for instance, but it would have to be the same process and product, and they would have to make a profit from it. Anyone can make anything, as long as they're not making a profit from marketing a patented or licensed product

You are already established as the man to listen to when it comes to diy lapidary products! After the arbor build out, you really got your name out there! And now the belts is an awesome step up! We all already know that if Jared built it, you know it's good! Thanks Jared!

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much! I do really enjoy making things like this and I hope some people can use it to start saving money where they can. Less money in the shop and more in the gas tank!!!

if you start out with the finer grit and progress to heavier grits then cleaning is null.

Thanks for adding this. For those of us who are straight hobbyists, the cost of belts is prohibitive. I appreciate an alternative.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

11 ай бұрын

I'm glad you liked it!

i love your honesty in all your videos.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

It's the only way.

I am not very happy. I have been perfecting my own diamond belts and I thought I was the only one to make my own other than the Johnson brothers. I have been looking for months for a KZread video on this but couldn't find one. I am kidding, but I wish I had this method before.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

What have you been doing for your method?

Spray the sticky belt with zap a gap catalyst and it will cure.

WOW! That one at the end looks like glass! Awesome job!

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Always upping your game. You got me thinking about how the ancient peoples worked stones. Time to go digging.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

You bring up a very interesting and good topic here. I really don't have a clue as to how this was done like pre 1900.

AWESOME, Dude! Who doesn't love to save money?

I’m thinking about making my own diamond plates for my fixed geometry knife sharpening system and this has given me a few ideas. Thank you.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

4 ай бұрын

I'm glad you found it to be helpful.

Maybe put on a layer of clear epoxy first and then add the diamond solution after that’s dry. It probably soaks into the belt. They make silicone brushes that wouldn’t fall apart on the belt. Basically this is the way people make those really cool looking water cups with all the glitter and stuff. Our friend is trying this with nova wheels once they are worn down to nothing. I love finding ways to make this hobby a bit more affordable.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Now that I know how much soaks into the belt I think that would have been best. The issues I had with these throw away brushes was not the best at all and I will have to find one of those silicone brushes.

Awesome video!! Thanks for the solid information!!👍😎👻🤪🌶

Great idea, Jared! Way to go. I love how resourceful and creative you are.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

After reading some of the other's comments, how about this. get a wide putty knife and bend the edges right at the width of the belt so it looks like an elongated U L_______l. Then attach a spring to keep it in contact with the belt/drum with light pressure. Then you can drizzle the epoxy onto the belt and let the spring loaded putty knife do the spreading. It will also keep the drum/belt aligned by the bent up edges. Obviously you would remove it at some point so as not to epoxy it to the wheel.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Ohhh I like that idea!

@tomasotreasaigh111

7 күн бұрын

​@@CurrentlyRockhounding Thanks for all the tips guys, peace and best wishes to you all from a fellow Rockhound in Ireland 👍🏻

I love saving money, who doesn't. Great Information, love that you try to help others.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

It's a two way street, you should look at the ideas and help in the comments section of this video. Y'all share some great ideas with me here.

@CurrentlyRockhounding: If you were to put a thick layer of epoxy without grit on the belt first. You could pass the belt between two rollers pressed together (or one roller against a tabletop or some other flat, hard surface.) to push the epoxy into the fabric of the belt. After that, epoxy with grit should go on evenly without thin spots. I think that a small, rubber roller with some way to adjust its position, placed above the roller on your motorized stand, would be able to press the epoxy/grit into the belt so that it is spread out without so many high or low spots. Then your break in period might be shorter as well as producing a more even distribution of grit on the belt. If you have access to a 3D printer, you could print a small trough with a slot in the bottom that is as wide as the belts are. If you make the slot the right width, and put the trough above the belt roller so that epoxy poured into the trough will flow evenly onto the belt. If you desigh the trough right you can make a follower (the follower should fit the trough's internal profile so that, when it is pushed in all the way, there is no void space where epoxy can hide) to push the epoxy/grit out of the slot. If you put the trough in front of the roller I described above, all you would have to do is to put the belt in place and start the motor. Then you'd just pour in the epoxy and put the follower in place and it would do the rest. With some experimentation, you should be able to make belts quickly and easily while still making high quality coatings on them. This is a great idea. Thanks for making this video.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

3 ай бұрын

The process could use some improvements for sure, and it sounds like a lot of those ideas you have here are worth looking into more.

Good job I might have to try it Keep the wheels turning. I cant wait to see what you come up with next. 😊 😷⚒

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I would love to hear about it if you do!

Epoxy can be hardened using ozone and / or heat. UV sometimes helps it to polymerize.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Interesting, I will have to look into that. Thank you!

@spetkovsek57

Жыл бұрын

@@CurrentlyRockhounding This is true, but it might be a specific type of epoxy that cures with UV. I hope it works with all of them though.

I’d go ahead and try that one that was sticky just because it’s sticky doesn’t mean that it’s not gonna work it means that there was enough Hardner in the whatever the topcoat him or you have on that and it’s that you can also just mix a little bit more up put it on top and harden it

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I really chalked it up as a loss but I don't see any harm in giving that a try. Thank you for the idea.

If you start with the finest diamonds 3000 you should do 1500 next and work your way to the corest you don't have to worry about the wrong diamond being on the wrong wheel.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I do plan on making more just like this.

Gotta admit, I was a bit skeptical at first, but you smashed that. Great video bud. I mean, you showed us in real time, mistakes and all, and proved it can work, and work very well. That’s awesome. Thank you for sharing this with us.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

3 ай бұрын

Thank you, I try to show my homework on projects like this.

Liked it? Loved it! You sir, are nothing short of a genius

@CurrentlyRockhounding

3 ай бұрын

Thank you!

Great job Jared, That will be such a useful video for rockhounds on a budget 👏

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad you liked it!

You might go for a 1" putty knife to apply and a 3" to evenly ?, spread. You might upgrade the arbor to better hold the wheel. That stuff is thick.

@SissyMchill1

Жыл бұрын

So similar to frosting a cake type motion? Yes that could possibly work. Good idea in my opinion.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

That very likely would have been a better way to go here with it. Pretty much I'm learning as I go with this.

Wow what a project! 🤔 you could definitely streamline the process but I’d say that’s a huge success!

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Oh for sure there is better ways to do this I think and I hope to see other people take the concept here and make it better.

Just wow!

Thanks for sharing

Great video…thanks!

Ingenius economical no expensive or heavy equipment required, no lathes or welding-EXCELLENT! A very doable project for my skill level and budget. I will have to improvise for an expandable drum wheel or a substitute-I am not afraid to experiment a bit -limiting waste is key. Thanks Jared!

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I think what I did here could also really be improved on, I think a better bush would be nice as well as a better system for turning the wheel would be good.

Always a valuable learning experience … thanks

As a bike messenger back in the 90's we never raced with color tires. The dye used to color them made the rubber slicker and prone to slipping on the track.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

5 ай бұрын

Okay...

This is the best video out there so far,in my opinion! Thanks so much! You know,the mistake belt could be used inside out! Just do the process again,on the inside! In a pinch you could try to recoat it,also.I am going to use my current wheels,well cleaned,since the belts don't come off my six inch.But thanks again! I have a Kingsley North catalog,so I'll look this stuff up!!!

Great video! Thanks for sharing this useful information with us. Love seeing all your new projects.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad you liked it!

I have seen a couple of diy diamond belt production vids here on youtube. One thing I would highly recomend for all is: mix the resin completly before adding diamond- otherwise the first substance sticking to the diamond will lead to less bounding within the matrix I guess. Beside that thanks for the explanation and sharing. Cheers f

Oh Hell Yea!

Wow, very nice!

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Very nice. Thanks

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Start with the finest grit and work your way toward the coarsest. There is no need to clean in between. Can't contaminate a coarse grit with a finer one. Thanks for sharing. Learning about something I've been curious about, but haven't taken the plunge

WOW, great shine

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

I absolutely love your videos. Appreciate all the information shared in a ‘real’ manner!! Thank you I look forward to the day when I can actually support your work

@CurrentlyRockhounding

3 ай бұрын

Thank you for the kind words! I do my best around here, and I'm glad people like the videos.

Great video. I love your out of the box thinking.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Thanks and nice shop ya got there

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad you liked it.

Just subscribed. I can see definite application of this to my cabbing work.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad you found it to be helpful.

Very good video.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad you liked it.

You rock, Thank you:)

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad you liked it.

I may go with flat laps rather than wheels -easier for the machines I am using, I may have to recalculate the formula is all to cover a different size area and I can crunch a few numbers and give it a go!

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I think a flat lap would also be well worth testing this concept out on. I would love to hear how it goes for you.

@rolintt

Жыл бұрын

Yeah, I think I'll also try this on my homemade 10" flat lap machine.

Love your channel! Your creativity is inspiring. Suggest dying the belts before you start applying the epoxy. A few years ago I heard someone suggest using cold galvanizing compound spray and diamond to rejuvenate flat laps and galaxy wheels. I haven't tried yet, but intend to after a few more pressing projects are finished. Keep up the great work!!

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Hmmm that's an interesting concept. If you try it I would love hear about it.

I do this but with food. I see it + I like it + I’ll use it = I need it = I eventually make it.

Hey Jared.. what a great idea. Love the out-of-the-box ideas and concept's you mull over, experiment, and then share with us the results. With that said, if I recall correctly, the whole idea was to not have the problems that can be associated with "Cerium Oxide". Watching you DIY and creating your own belts got me wondering if the same idea could be applied (concept-wise) to creating a epoxy-based Cerium or even a Tin Oxide belt? I'm just talking outloud here.. Really enjoyed his episode and wish you continued success!

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

That is a really neat idea and something I really haven't considered but I think it is something worth exploring.

@spetkovsek57

Жыл бұрын

@@CurrentlyRockhounding HP does make a Cerium Oxide belt for one of there machine, so it can be done. Scott Wilkins uses one on his channel if you want to see it in action.

You are the man and what great idea to make your own belts. Thank you for all your hard work and teaching us these very cool tricks.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Thank you for being here watching the videos, without viewers nothing like this happens.

@ambkbero2

Жыл бұрын

@@CurrentlyRockhounding I usually consider myself pretty resourceful and cheap, but I have met my match and bow down before your omnipotent presence.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

@@ambkbero2 Ha!

Btw I just mix in acrylic paint and it works just fine as a dye.

@jonathanrood3548

4 ай бұрын

Over time I realized that acrylic paint can actually make the epoxy harder (maybe more brittle). Acrylic will also decrease the cure time with 10% added, as you increase it will cause the epoxy to become clumpy and harden almost instantly when you add a 1/1 ratio of acrylic to epoxy. Interesting stuff to play with.

😳I'm surprised the "Harbor Freight Specials" actually had any bristles left at the end

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

They do suck a little bit but they did work but nicer ones would have been an improvement.

@DonariaRegia

Жыл бұрын

@@CurrentlyRockhounding A little CA glue applied where the bristles come out of the handle, sprinkle a little baking soda on the area and you have instantly cured glue with bristles fixed in place. Do a small batch for efficiency.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

@@DonariaRegia Dang! That's a really smart idea! Thank you for that.

ideas to ponder pre coat the belt die may be seen diamond will be on the surface acetone will thin epoxy hope this helps as i will try this urd best tuber

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I really didn't think of thinning the epoxy out but that would have really helped.

Alumalite dyes are more concentrated, 1 drop will definitely show up through the diamond dust. I wonder if you can do a light coat of just epoxy, let that cure for 4-6 hours, then recoat with the diamond mixture.

Great video Gives me ideas , thank you I'm thinking the cold weather caused issues with the 1st belt not drying also possible the amount of material mixed with the epoxy caused it to not cure. But it sounds like the BSI epoxy did the trick. 👍👍 BSI is the best glues for everything with the exception of E6000. Lol

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Yeah the weather sure could have been a factor. I think in the perfect world it would have been done in a climate controlled space.

My diamonds are en-route. Totally stealing all the good ideas and suggestions. Thx for video.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Do it! Part of the reason I make these videos is so that people can piggy back on the work I have done and hopefully I can do the same when other people take it and make improvements.

Adding a acetone a few drops at a time until the 220 glue is an easier to apply to the wheel might make it go smoother.

@jonathanrood3548

4 ай бұрын

Acetone won't ruin the curing process?

I think if you used a rubber brayer to coat the belt like putting ink on a running printing press.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

11 ай бұрын

Thank you! I will look into it.

Another great video, Thanks

Thanks for the how to! Please continue with the how too's. What RPM is the loritone drum unit?

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad you liked it! My Lortone arbor is running at 1800rpm.

Jared I have been waiting for this video! bout damn time!! Kidding, seriously though I have been and I have known all along that the reason for the high prices on this stuff is it is a small market! Anyone who thinks it's because of the diamonds doesn't have a good foot hold into reality. I will check out the links you have provided. I absolutely intend on making my own, I have worked with epoxy's potting electronics for aviation. I am at least familiar with epoxies and mixing..Just need to go through the learning curve myself. Thanks for doing this, it is long long overdue. With the Chinese in the market, companies like Diamond Pacific really need to look into themselves because the market in my and many others is way overpriced and due for an adjustment. This is hopefully the starting point..Thanks again.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I think this process could be refined for sure and from reading peoples comments here I already have ideas on how to make it better. I'm not familiar with them at or mixing them so I likely could have done this better but my hope here is that people see what I did and improve on the concept.

@sfbfriend

Жыл бұрын

@@CurrentlyRockhounding Those belts that ended up tacky, did you try a low temp bake? That could help them to cure, the tackiness could be from not mixing enough or not enough hardener. Is the ratio for mixing the epoxy one to one?

I had a thought and I thought I'd run it by you to see if you think it's feasible. I think that, depending on the consistency of the quartzite, it should be possible to mill out an AR-15 lower receiver. It's a part that does not undergo any pressure other than the rear tower that houses the recoil assembly and I believe that it might be possible to handle that stress or the tower could be milled with extra thickness if needed.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

That's an interesting concept but it might be rather hard to pull off and the end result might not fully function.

@savage1r

Жыл бұрын

@@CurrentlyRockhounding wish I knew someone with a 5 axis cnc that could handle rock...

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

@@savage1r Sintered bits should do it.

I wonder if that would work for flat lap disks?

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I don't see why you couldn't do this to a soft resin lap.

I've never used belts before, only diamond resin wheels. What's the benefit to using belts? Just price?

great Vid, What would you use to make a nova disk?

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

That's a good question, I haven't tried its with any flat discs.

Cool idea! Did you make an 8000? I like to use that between the 3000 and the 14000.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I have not yet but I would like to.

Great idea to save money,I like the video although I do not do lapidary,I believe your greatest challenge is to get the glue even,my idea to achieve is to use 2 spinning wheels,1000th-2000th?,apart from each other,I would use a poker card as gap set,rotate 2 blankets put glue in between cleavage,add until all absorbed even distribution

You should try thinning out the epoxy and doing many light coats. I have a friend that did this but gave up as he could get them from someone else that also makes them for about the same price but does not waste time and stick with the core hobby.

What if you used a big plastic putty knife and let the belt spin around although I think it’s lose fit cause no speed to hold the belt.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

That would have likely been better.

Great video! Did you happen to look at the belts with your microscope to see the concentration, distribution and exposure (from under the epoxy) of the diamonds? Wonder how that is going to change over use....

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I did and the concentration seem even, its a little hard to tell really but they seem perfectly fine to me.

you could even apply to old worn-out nova wheels

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

You can for sure recoat wheels like those.

Looks like ill keep buying my belts. Entertaining though

@CurrentlyRockhounding

5 ай бұрын

What belts have you been buying?

So now that it has been a few days, how are the belts lasting? I am assuming that you made this is march or so because of the heavy clothes. What I have noticed is that the belts tend to work the best from 230 to 2k or so. I have a hard time making the 3k belts last without giving extra light scratches from the hard epoxy. I have also found that I need to take a 60 grit sand paper to the belts to even out the wear sometimes.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

It has actually been several months, I made the belts in April 2023 and this video finished up in mid June 2023. What epoxy are you using?

What if you did a initial epoxy layer without diamond grit to get established and then apply second coat with diamond grit?

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

I think that is a much better way to do it.

Do you think it would help to put a layer of epoxy down before mixing in any diamond powder?

@CurrentlyRockhounding

11 ай бұрын

I do think that would be good.

I wonder if you heated the mixture a little bit if it would mix and spread easier for you? Great video. Thanks

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

That could help and its something I should test out.

@CaravanningNewZealand

11 ай бұрын

Heat may accelerate the epoxy cure time? Not too much of a problem as you are using a slow cure epoxy though.

@jonathanrood3548

4 ай бұрын

Heat will help, but too much heat can cause the epoxy to become brittle.

Interesting process. Since it’s a cloth belt, why not pre mark the belt with a marker to show the grit size rather than use die.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

11 ай бұрын

I did that on the inside but I guess I was hoping that the color would make it really easy to know which one is which.

Jared, can you give us on update on the pads? I have still been making at least one pad a week since May or so, but I still scratching my head on the 1.2k + belts as I said in another comment the epoxy by itself slightly scratch my stones, even agates. For three longest time I thought it was best they weren't evenly coated, so I have spent several months now try to get the perfect formal and perfectly smooth coats. What I have found is that even if I spend an hour sanding my belts and get them a smooth as I can, they will only work for a stone or two and then they start to scratch my stones again. I have used Bsrezn Clear Epoxy Resin 24OZ and the resin is really strong and will cut many stones before a needing a new coat. My 60grit belts are a beast and cut fast, take a beating and my first one is lasting since June with plenty of wear left. I have been using the 60grit every other day for an hour or so. Pretty impressive. I am NOT so impressed with my 1200 grit, 2,000 gritand espcially my 3, 24:32 24:32 24:32 000 grit. I have experimented with 100% silicone, with E-6000, and some rubber putty all of which are great materials, just difficult to work with for this application. The E6000 works well for smaller applications like 5in pads, and the silicone might work for belts, but both have a small window of workable time. If Bob Smith Industries is still working for your belts, let us all know. Just curious if your thunder eggs or other stones with sharp edges have made groves that affect performance. My friend is wanting to make his own but I am going to caution him from using just any epoxy espcially for higher grit pads/belts. Would you recommend the Bob Smith industries epoxy? Where is a good source for repurposing low RPM motors?

@CurrentlyRockhounding

9 ай бұрын

I have had no issues with the belts that I have made using the BSI epoxy. How exactly are you sure that your scratches are coming from the epoxy? Also you shouldn't ever be taking sharp edges to soft belts, or pads of anything kind. That kind of work is best left for hard wheels. When you say "low RPM motor" what are you looking for and to do what exactly? Any motor can be speed adjusted with pulleys.

@sketchywhaler

9 ай бұрын

So, when I say it is the epoxy that scratches it, I mean I have made an epoxy pad with just epoxy and one with epoxy that I purposely made slightly rough. I was able to get the rough epoxy scratch an agate that I had gotten up to a 2k grit. It made noticable scratches and I didn't even press hard. I did this because I couldn't figure out why my smooth stones with no rough edges would be perfectly fine at 1200 grit but then get scratches sometimes after using the 2kgrit or 3kgrit diamond belts. Concerning the motor, I meant the little motor that you used to spin your wheel while the epoxy dries.

I'm considering doing this to re-coat some Cab King 6 inch wheels that are 1.5 inch wide. That would take quite a bit less than what you used for these belts. Any recommendation for the weight of epoxy and carats for that size compared to what you mixed?

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

That is a good question. You could try doing half of what I did. Also you will want to clean those wheels really really well before doing it. I would wash them really well with hot water and dish soap and then wipe them down with some alcohol. You want them to be dirt and oil free for maximum adherence.

I wonder if you could thin the epoxy with acetone and then spray it on with an airbrush?

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Maybe? I really don't know much about things like that.

@bentationfunkiloglio

Жыл бұрын

Air brushes are typically gravity fed. In a low viscosity fluid, the diamonds would probably fall out of suspension too fast. However, still a really good idea with one small modification. Put epoxy on first, then spray on the diamonds with a spray gun used for etching glass. Would need to lower air pressure considerably. .... hrmmmmm, might work.

@mikedodge3910

Жыл бұрын

@bentationfunkiloglio8485 thank you for that great input!

@Debbie4729

2 ай бұрын

@@bentationfunkiloglio And wear a REALLY good respirator!No fun breathing diamond dust into your lungs!!!

Thank you for sharing as always sir. Also am curious how much time was involved in getting parts, putting together the equipment you used and actually coating the belts? Also, am not sure I understand all the math involved. You mention that you were holding three containers with 100cts of diamonds....that = 33.333cts per jar and you said it was $70 for the three jars or $23.33 per jar. If you used 30cts of diamonds per belt and the jar has 33.333cts it would seem that you used around $20 of diamonds per belt...is that accurate? Thanks again!

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

Each one of those containers were 100cts, so 300 in total. So the exact math break down of price was $22.07 per 100cts x 3 which is $66.21 total. Using about 30 cts per belt to establish the belt comes to a diamond price of $6.62, and then add the resin and the actual belt. It wasn't a lot of time spent on the project really, I mean most of the time was spent waiting for them to cure and figuring out that to get them made it kind of needs to be done twice.

@BackcountrywithShaughn

Жыл бұрын

@@CurrentlyRockhounding Good to know. Thank you!

Just curious how these brlts are holding up if you are still using them.

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Ай бұрын

They have held up great.

Couldn't you use a foam roller and spin it

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Ай бұрын

It is way too thick for that.

You could probably cut down the cost by using minimal or no diamond on the very first coat. Especially if it's going to be covered up. I also think that by using less diamond and a smaller diamond to epoxy ratio on the second coat you essentially decreased the exposed diamond at the surface percentage. By covering up your first layer which had a higher diamond to epoxy ratio. Using no diamond in the first layer and maybe 35-40 carat diamond to 15c epoxy and 15c hardener might give better results. This is just my thinking and i might be way wrong about this. Playing around with the ratios though sounds like fun.

@britishlingo

2 ай бұрын

Wouldn’t you want multiple layers of epoxy and diamond so that when the epoxy wears down it will exposes more diamonds? I mean, if you just put epoxy on the first layer then when you wear the second layer of diamonds down there just epoxy.

@Pork-Zombie_Puke

2 ай бұрын

@@britishlingo i guess it would depend on what type of Stone you're polishing And how hard it is. If the epoxy is harder than the stone then it's not gonna wear it down as much, But if the stone is harder than the epoxy then you might be right. But I was figuring if One was trying to cut down on cost, do a solid Base Of just epoxy. I guess it would take some experimenting and a lot of polishing to really find out for sure.

This is really cool but.. like $350 worth of time plus product I think I’ll lean towards buying my belts and using the 3ish days to make stuff ngl. Really fascinating video tho!

@CurrentlyRockhounding

Жыл бұрын

How did you come up with that number of $350?

sponge man sponge or squigee

@CurrentlyRockhounding

11 ай бұрын

What?

knife makers uses diamond pastes on leather, probably not a good idea for you rock folks tho

😅#

Bro, you’re doing interesting things but damn your videos are long, just cut to the chase that’s in your title please

@CurrentlyRockhounding

6 ай бұрын

I couldn't care less about your opinion.

@jonathanrood3548

4 ай бұрын

I respectfully disagree.

Liquid pigments affect the cure rate of epoxy. Add too much and it may take a very long time to cure. You might want to try using a dyed/colored chalk powder or a pigment powder. Mohs scale hardness, 3. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcite Talc as an epoxy filler looks interesting as it may lower the viscosity. Which might aid in spreading the epoxy? Mohs scale hardness, 1. Adding mica might help with the heat and dimensional stability of the composite. Mohs scale hardness, 2.5 to 4.0. Determining the ratios of these fillers needs to be researched or by experimentation. Applying epoxy to the belt: Prime a new belt with a thinned epoxy, use acetone. Let it cure then apply your diamond filled epoxy. You can also reduce the viscosity of the epoxy diamond filler with acetone. A too viscus mixture even with rotation, will pool the resin at the bottom of the belt. So don’t thin the epoxy too much. Use a heat gun to break bubbles. Curing the epoxy at an elevated temperature increases the heat tolerance of the epoxy. For example if you cured the epoxy at 180F for 8 hours, it will maintain it’s structural integrity up to that temperature. This may also increase the life of the belt. Good luck! Notes: Mica Mica powder and pigment mica powder use oxides as dyes added to chalk. Mica-reinforced plastics also have high-heat dimensional stability, reduced warpage, and the best surface properties of any filled plastic composite. Mohs scale hardness, 2.5 to 4.0. In the paint industry, ground mica is used as a pigment extender that also facilitates suspension, reduces chalking, prevents shrinking and shearing of the paint film, increases the resistance of the paint film to water penetration and weathering and brightens the tone of colored pigments. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mica Chalk (calcite, CaCO3) It is composed mostly of tiny fragments of the calcite shells or skeletons of plankton, calcite plates ranging from 0.5 to 4 microns in size, though about 10% to 25% of a typical chalk is composed of fragments that are 10 to 100 microns in size. Chalk is typically almost pure calcite, CaCO3, with just 2% to 4% of other minerals. These are usually quartz and clay minerals, though collophane (cryptocrystalline apatite, a phosphate mineral) is also sometimes present, as nodules or as small pellets interpreted as fecal pellets. Polishing chalk Polishing chalk is chalk prepared with a carefully controlled grain size, for very fine polishing of metals.[28] Tailor's chalk (Talc, hydrated magnesium silicate, Mg3Si4O10(OH)) Tailor's chalk (also known as French chalk) is traditionally a hard chalk used to make temporary markings on cloth, mainly by tailors. It is now usually made of talc (magnesium silicate).[29] The Mohs scale of mineral hardness, based on scratch hardness comparison, defines value 1 as the hardness of talc, the softest mineral. Due to its low shear strength, talc is one of the oldest known solid lubricants. Also, limited use is made of talc as a friction-reducing additive in lubricating oils.[20] en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talc Gypsum gypsum (calcium sulfate). , use of carbonate-based chalk produces larger particles and thus less dust, and it is marketed as "dustless chalk".[20][5] Coloured chalks, pastel chalks, and sidewalk chalk, used to draw on sidewalks, streets, and driveways, are primarily made of gypsum rather than calcium carbonate chalk.[21] Mohs scale hardness, 2. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gypsum en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chalk