Knob and tube isn't "bare wire" as stated in this video, and is not unsafe unless the insulation has worn away or its overloaded. I was always taught from my instructor that when present, it can be used safely for things like lights and low current appliances like clocks just fine, just supplement the system with modern wiring for things with a higher draw.And in that same vein, some fuse boxes can be perfectly safe when the same guidelines are followed, usually as sub panels. A major hospital in Portland where I live still has fuse boxes in the old building for the stairwell lighting systems and it passes current inspection (as I was curious and asked when I worked there).

Inspecting building requires proper skills and a lot of hardwork. Very well explained video showing proper functioning of #buildinginspector.

Quote from a well known industry publication which discussed this very topic. "Anti-oxidant joint compounds used in electrical wiring are doped with zinc particles. The grease keep out oxygen to prevent corrosion, and the zinc particles enhance conductivity. The connection does not rely on the conductivity of the paste anyhow. There is metal to metal contact between the terminal and the conductor. The zinc doping just enhances any other incidental contact that is not at the precise terminal-to-conductor interface and I suppose reduces any other potential difference that might cause heating of the paste. Dielectric grease is not really used in electric wiring on terminals (except maybe in your marine industry). Dielectric grease is used to lubricate moving internal parts of disconnects and circuit breakers where the reduction of arcing between internal parts is desirable, (where incidental amounts of grease between metallic parts with potential difference would cause trouble if the grease had less than dielectric properties). A bit of it is also used on plug-on circuit breaker stabs to make it easier to get the breaker plugged on. It's essentially wiped off when metal to metal contact is made at the point of electrical interconnection."

@masterelectriciantv362

8 жыл бұрын

+Alpha Zero clearly you are ignorant and probably do not even hold a Masters Electrician license...very evident in your poor choice of verbiage.

@masterelectriciantv362

8 жыл бұрын

+Alpha Zero and sadly you remain an idiot.

At 8:17 the ball valve that is being operated looks like it supplies nothing but the capped off pipe stub. Also, is that a flexible hose supplying the water heater? And the hose is in contact with the flue?

Knob & tube is not that bad. I would rather sleep with knob & tube than aluminum wiring in my home. I have seen copper spliced to aluminum catch fire and continue to burn while being sprayed with water. I am a master electrician with 30+ years of experience. I will go to sleep tonight and an alarm clock plugged into a knob & tube fed outlet will wake me again tomorrow. I ran a 3000 volt hi potential tester on the knob & tube. No issues! I used an AC hi pot set at 3000 VAC and then a DC hi pot set at 2000 volts VDC. I am slowly eliminating ALL the knob & tube. One light bulb will probably remain on the knob & tube as that portion of the home is inaccessible. It is 12 ga copper wire. I will put that on a 10 ampere arc fault breaker. I have seen far scarier things than knob & tube. How about 18 gauge lamp cord inside walls. How about partially melted lamp cord? Extension cords run under flag stones in a home office? FPE breaker boxes? 50 amp breakers feeding # 12 AWG branch circuit wiring? We added a family room, bath & bedroom, and tied it into the old circuit. The 20 amp would not hold, nor would the 30 or 40 so we put it on a 50 amp. WOW! Who let you do that? I have seen hardware store salesmen sell 50 amp breakers to people describing this very same scenario. Consider a circuit breaker can run at 125% of the listed trip rating for 12 hours or more! Yeah, it looks easy. That was partly why I became an electrician. Installing outlets looked easier than hanging sheetrock, and without electricity we would essentially be living in barns.

If this is aimed at the homeowner, here are numerous unsafe practices practices shown and inaccurate statements in this video.

This is an awesome series. Did know this was available. Public Adjuster Careers - NJ Public Adjuster - Public Insurance Adjuster Michael Martinez

Thanks Good to know

National Electric Code Does NOT require you to replace knob and tube wiring, fused panels, or a lot of what you said. Yes, you should, but your home inspector won't mandate it, and if he does, you need to have a word with his employer.

@technologyproductions-ye3px

7 жыл бұрын

James Walton replace it it's not worth the risk

This is a misleading representation of Aluminum Wiring. The stranded Aluminum, typically size 8 AWG and Larger is safe and of the AA 8000 Series variety mandated by the National Electrical Code. In 1972, UL began to require AA 8000 Series AL for use in building wiring and the National Electrical Code followed suite in the mid to late 80's. The issues of potential fires associated with AL Conductors was more about the poor connections, lack of devices (receptacles and switches) that were actually rated for use with AL Conductors and poor termination and inadequate installation practices. The use of AL Wiring in sizes 8 AWG and Larger is very safe and with nearly 40+ years of active use with reliable results the Aluminum wiring produced after 1972 are safe and compatible in creep and reliability with copper conductors. Now if you question my knowledge of Aluminum Wire and Copper Wire (which we make both) then you clearly do not understand wiring methods.

@masterelectriciantv362

8 жыл бұрын

+Alpha Zero The "grease" you are referring to is not "dielectric" grease. It is anti-oxidation paste that is used to reduce the effects of oxidation on the AL conductors. It is important to note that CU has such a paste as well since it also oxidizes. Nothing within the NEC says that anti-oxidation paste has to be used, it only says that IF it is used that it will not harm the termination, the insulation, or the conductor during it's use. Not having such a paste on the terminals is not a violation unless you can show the equipment that it's being applied to makes the statement for it's requirement. I agree 100% with Encore Codes.

@masterelectriciantv362

8 жыл бұрын

+Alpha Zero Incorrect......Technically - While it can be thought of as "dielectric grease" the NEC, which I know as a Home Inspector you are adverse too, if you as a home inspector call out the lack of "anti-oxidation paste" on a termination that does not require it you will become a laughing stock to the electrical community which should not be your goal. Now, while it is recommended and does serve a value it is not required if the torquing is done correctly in accordance with UL 486A-B and per the manufacturers instructions.

@masterelectriciantv362

8 жыл бұрын

+Alpha Zero Not that you ARE a HI...just trying to express why it would not be in their best interest to report an issue that is not technically an issue...unless the equipment of course requires such a compound. The electrical inspectors (who which I teach a lot over the years) are not going to understand the term "dielectric grease" but will understand the statements found in NEC Section 110.14 " Materials such as solder, fluxes, inhibitors, and compounds, where employed, shall be suitable for the use and shall be of a type that will not adversely affect the conductors, installation, or equipment." The "paste" or "Compounds" may indeed be a dielectric "grease" but alas it is also a Anti-Oxidation Compound which is the focus of the termination. You will never see the term Dielectric Grease on an equipment listings.

@masterelectriciantv362

8 жыл бұрын

+Alpha Zero Trust me...I believe I am way more qualified that you will assume.....you just happen to not know who I am....and the company I work for manufacturers the conductors to which you would apply that compound and it is not being applied to aluminum conductors because it is a conductive grease.....don't kid yourself. And I am far from a Home Inspector...How many book on the NEC have you written?.....what NEC Code Panel do you sit on......enough said.

@masterelectriciantv362

8 жыл бұрын

+Alpha Zero Firstly, You are fighting a pretty benign fight and the language is not needed. While the anti-oxidation paste is indeed available in a "grease" formula you are a bit off if you believe that it is all considered a dielectric grease. You can result to name calling if you wish as that is your your right. However, it is better to examine the facts. Not all greases are used for a generic purpose, in the terms of the aluminum connection (an CU to be honest with you) the effects of oxygen onto the conductor termination points create a film known as oxidation. In AL the oxidation is quite tough and if not cleaned off the termination it can create a higher resistance point that can hinder the termination. So why is terminations important....you seem to not understand that the idea of properly torquing a termination provides contact points to the lug surface and reduces the point to point material oxidation because it limits the oxygen to the termination. Being a former NEMA representative myself I know for a fact that the manufacturers of panelboards and resulting terminations do not require an anti- oxidation compound "or grease if you please" at the terminations....as long as you terminate the conductor properly...and it is also clear in UL 67 as well. As a manufacturer of AL and CU conductors I can promise you we do not recommend the compounds because it is a "conductive grease"...we do it to prevent oxidation at the termination, reducing the heat associated with the oxidation effects and enhances the connections reliability. So you can continue on this path and look silly over a "grease" or "not grease" debate....and understand that none of the manufacturers will call the compounds for this use a "Grease"....or a "conductive grease"...it is purely designed to help reduce the effects of oxidation. However, I am also a Master Electrician for over 26 years and author of many publications on the NEC and Electrical Codes as well as the founder of the CEU process in Virginia....so I am not clearly as "LAME" as you would wish to call me...In Fact, you have inspired me to do a MasterElectricianTV episode where I will bring in the manufacturers of the compounds....be sure to watch it as I know them all as I have worked with them for years. We can agree to disagree........Take Care

I do not understand how an electric board placed outside the home. What happens if problems arise and the outside is rain.

@filminginportland1654

8 жыл бұрын

It's odd, and surprisingly common. I'd never do it. See that corroded one it showed.

Very informative

this video is so abstract. i do not believe an inspector with out trade experiance and actual trade school learning should be an inspector

@makemyday1477

5 жыл бұрын

Ralph Riffle , and that is why here where I live they require all inspectors to be licensed contractors.

This video is misleading and dangerously too vague. Why would you inspect a water heater without testing the required pressure relief valve which you didn't even mention?

I would never ever install a gas water heater in a garage as the flames are very likely to ignite any leakage or spilled gas & or other flammables that fumes can & will easily ignite!

You should get professionals from each trade to correct you.

Ive heard many folks think about living without electricity.

You are teaching inaccurate information. It is Single-Strand Aluminum wiring that is the concern...not Multi-Strand Aliminum wiring as you show in this video. MSA is commonly used today and perfectly safe. And I agree with hiuno11...you are teaching unsafe techniques to lay-people. AND there are many other defects inside that electrical panel.

"Hot water heater" Really? If the water were "hot" why would you need a heater?

@mossfet

6 жыл бұрын

Anthony Phillips same here in washington and the east coast. Ive never heard it said any other way

I would hope that whoever did this video is well aware, after 6 years, the many deficiencies of this video. The real question is why do they allow it to stay up and continue to be an embarrassment to the home inspection industry?

Some good info but not entirely accurate.

stupid falsehoods. Aluminum just needs different hardware, making it safe. Knob and tube was NOT BARE. It was insulated wires, just not enclosed as a pair, but strung apart. The only hazard today is that the insulation would deteriorate in hot lamp fixtures. There are remedies to make it safe. Yes, breakers are the new standard, but breakers can fail to trip. Fuses ALWAYS blow when they should. Most statements here are bad science.

There is more than one type of furnace. Not everyone uses natural gas. Home heating oil, propane and electric are other types. It's not a hot water heater. If the water was already hot why would you need to heat it. It's just a water heater or saying a cold water heater would at least be more accurate

Summary: "you should be co-dependent on a ridiculously expensive tradesman" Disgusting, insulting, unhelpful rubbish.

Is there a video that consists of the hundreds of different components inside and outside of the homes.All houses dont have the same components.You just mention what theyre called,but you cant expect a noob to know what these components do,or how to tell if something is wrong.You just skim through pipes, (rubber and plastic or metal) or talking about the heat pump components and i dont even know what a heat pump does. It looks like an air conditioner to me. No details of water heater components.Doesnt help me help the home owner to show them pics of the labels.Just because something is old doesnt mean it needs to go. I see a video for plumbing but nothing about all the piles and things or what those wires are for that are outside or in basement

If you don't know what you're talking about then you shouldn't be making videos.