This is one of the best. Lots of time I hear people talk about flash duration like t0.1 and t0.5 and proceed to talk about how a faster flash duration can freeze action even better than the shutter. But they NEVER mention about ambient light. If you shoot outside with ample day light I don't see how fast duration would help unless you are able to shut out all ambient in the middle of the day by using some f/22 and 1/250s or such. The video shows ambience plays a very important role.

The dummy detail is that high-speed sync is based in repeated small flashes for the time a focal plane shutter needs to expose. Hypersync works completely differently. Yes it may need full power. It actually messes with the moment the speedlight is fired relative to the 'curtains' of the focal plane shutter. Hypersync utilizes the maximum flash duration of the speedlight (usually full power) and places the trigger moment so as to illuminate as much as possible the entire frame. The shortest/fastest flash sync time of a focal plane shutter is when the second (closing) curtain departs after the first curtain (opening) has travelled to the other end. Arrival of the first curtain is the regular flash ignition point. If we go from 1/250 sync exposure to 1/500 this means by the time curtain 1 triggers flash normally, that curtain 2 is already 50% closed and the flash fires, so half the image is flash-lit. Hypersync fires the speedlight earlier (before arrival of curtain 1). It compares to the 'rear curtain' flash trigger mode you would use with long exposures. If a (cheap or e.g. older Profoto) flash has a long flash duration at full power of say 1/200 sec, and we can fire hypersync timed right, then we can use any fast shutter speed. Whilst we talk about shutter speed the curtains always travel at the same speed. So a 1/250 sec time being the shortest exposure with both curtains open, means 1/8000 sec exposure still takes 1/250 sec total time for the curtains to go from one side to the other - just with a tiny distance between them. And we can use one full power hypersync to illuminate the 1/8000 sec exposure. High speed sync is enabled by having flash energy stored in multiple capacitors that are fired in quick sequence instead of all at the same time. This means flash power is vastly reduced as the sum of the pulses cannot exceed full power. Mind you, an original camera brand speedlight may be able to high speed sync without radios. Overpowering the sun should be easier with hypersync than high speed sync. We can also predict that speedlights, that are fast at full power, will give vignetting along top and bottom of the (landscape) image assuming modern shutters that travel vertically over a landscape image, so placement of the main subject helps to get the exposure usable.

@tscholent

Жыл бұрын

…what took you so long? Was getting tired of the “tried this so I must be right method”.

This should be the definitive guide.

Dude these photos are BUSSIN!!

Appreciate the info. Great video. I’m sold. 🙌🏽

Very nice tutorial and explanations thank you man! 👍

Thank you... Finally a simple explanation!

@CrazyJames

5 жыл бұрын

thanks, yea it can be confusing, i am still a little confused by it ha

Great explanation man, i was looking down this detail experiment since over year ago, and i was got nothing, but this one was great, i like the way you said ( dummies) anyway lol

@CrazyJames

5 жыл бұрын

haaa thankksss appreciate ittttt

Great video

How about camera setting...after ¹/350 we jas have auto fp (hss)..ty for sharing🙏🏿

Thanks for sharing this video, jas wondering which camera (nikon/canon) support for hypersync speed..? Ty🙏🏿

this was sick dude! I am about to post skate photography stuff too

thank you for your video, I want do hyper sync with my Godox ad600bm and Godox v860III. What TX do I need ? thank you

what is the best combo for transmitter, receiver and flash in your experience? Hugs

any links to flash and TX you use?

Hey man, thank you first off for this video. It makes me really stoked to see people making videos for skate photography especially ones for those just getting into the big boy stuff like. I will say, im still a bit confused tho in terms of how to set up hss very hyper sync. My setup is fuji x-t3 with a rokinon 8mm, godox v680ii with a x1r trigger. before this i was using a canon rebel t6i with its pop up flash. Ideally I usually shoot at 1/2000 during the day and 1/250- 1/100 at night depending on how dark it is. Now that I got the hefty light boy, and based on your video im thinking its best i just shoot in hyper sync most if not all the time. I got the trigger to use my flash off camera so would it matter what settings i have when its off compared to on? How do I trigger hypersync? (i know i can google this but since im already here id rather ask someone thats like minded) Do you recommend HSS for more indoor settings? Any tips for this am photographer would be greatly appreciated!

Does the flash have to have HSS function ? I have the Cactus V6ii mounted on my camera as a transmitter, then I have a Yongnuo 560 TXii stacked on the cactus acting as a receiver so that I can fire a Yongnuo YN660 manual flash on full 1/1 power above my camera's sync speed. And it works, only problem is that I get shutter masking at the top of my frame where the flash has been blocked by the shutter slightly. My camera's sync speed is 1/180 and my flash duration on full power is 1/200 could this be the problem ? I wonder if this would expose the whole frame if either the flash duration was longer or my camera's sync speed was faster. Hope that made sense. Also thanks for the great video explanation !

@CrazyJames

5 жыл бұрын

sorry for the late reply. 1/200 flash duration will be perfect for full frame exposure. This should be good up to at least 1/2000 of a shutter. I have had success stacking a flashpoint transmitter non hss on a mini tt1 hss and it worked perfect. unfortunately when stacking transmitters it is unknown what the result will be. The 560 TXii looks like a transmitter non hss , you are stacking this on a cactus v6ii hss that will put the cam into hss mode, this should work perfect, but every combo of transmitters and receivers will act differently, its always trial and error

Thanks for the video man really helpful, Quick question wit the good flashes how do you turn off the HSS to get hypersync i have the AD600BM and AD360||-c.

@CrazyJames

3 жыл бұрын

Hey dam sorry late reply, yu prob already found the answer, but just by having the flash on full power in manual mode triggered by a HSS or hypersync capable trigger, thats hypersync,

Awesome video. I'm thinking about getting some godox lights (ad360 or ad200). I love to see a video about what's in your bag.

@CrazyJames

5 жыл бұрын

yea i love the form and size of the ad200

@nosaj205

4 жыл бұрын

@@CrazyJames So. Do you have a video of how to set up for hypersync? My Nikon will not go over 1/250 without hss turned on.

Thanks . Só the diference between hss and hypersync is about a 2 stop gain? What about using the d3 with the yn622nII tranceivers? Do I need the yn622tx to adjust the delay? What kind of gain over hss can i get with my d3 and yn622tx you think? Thanks.

@CrazyJames

3 жыл бұрын

Depends on the flash your using, the AD360 has almost identical power output with hyper and hss. With Hyper just a tiny bit of banding. If your using speedlights i would just keep the flash on manual full power triggering it with a hss hypersync capable trigger receiver. In my experience with the yungnuos there is a slight delay for the flash to fire after pressing the shutter button. In newer versions this may have changed. This will effect you if your shooting action, but for anything else it will be a minor inconvenience.

Hi man, I have a sony a7iii, what transmitter, receiver and flash do you recommend ? Not too expensive but that works for skateboarding, good video

@ollie_fpv

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Felipe, did you decide on a flash? Ihave a Sony a6400 and wanting to try skateboarding photography. thanks!

@FelipeCea

2 жыл бұрын

@@ollie_fpv no man

Shutter delay reduces if you switch all automatic functions to manual: autofocus, white balance, exposure, ISO (and flash too). A lot - in the milliseconds domain.

Can a godox trigger and receiver work on an Alien Bee strobe for hypersync?

@CrazyJames

5 жыл бұрын

sorry for late reply, the flash duration numbers look to fast for all 3 of them, i have not tested that flash but i would say no

What do you think is 400 wsj power enought for that kind of action or better to go with 600? Just think what to choose.

@CrazyJames

3 жыл бұрын

I find the 400 perfect in almost all situations

1:40 u explained that HSS Triggers/Flashes at FULL power is what Hypersync is. On 3:50 i was confused since the test u made with info on the examples shown, says that all of them were at FULL power. And u said they were on FULL power. But one is HSS (which has weaker exposure) and other 2 were at Hypersync (more powerful exposure) How did that happen? If they were all at full power wouldnt that make them all Hypersync?

@CrazyJames

4 жыл бұрын

The nikon sb-800 has a high speed sync mode you can put it into. 3:50 was just to show there is no reason to put a speedlight in high speed sync mode because of the power loss. So instead just have the flash in regular manual mode at full power. The flashpoint ad360s have no power loss in high speed sync mode mode.

Did you have to set up any flash delay on the transmitters to achieve the hypersync?

@CrazyJames

3 жыл бұрын

There should be just a mode for hypersync then it works when most flashes are in full power.

@patrickcrich

3 жыл бұрын

@@CrazyJames a hypersync mode on the transmitter? I have the R2 (godox x1t) and can’t see a mode. Sorry for the additional questions. Cheers 🙌

Hi, am I too late to grab the charts? The link is inactive. Just found this video tonight. lol Thanks in advance.

@CrazyJames

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Alison, i can upload them and send you a link, if you have any questions about hss and hypersync let me know.

@AlisonCarlino

3 жыл бұрын

@@CrazyJames Many thanks! Email link to ocfgirl11@gmail.com

If you have a nikon D70, you don't have to worry about hypersync and high speed sync 😁

LOVE your work/results, but in all honesty....I prefer the implied/motion shots to the frozen. My 2cents: That to me means free-styling skateboarding....

I have a bunch of PocketWizard FlexTT5. No relation with them, no benefits. They are more expensive by a lot. Take Nikon i-TTL. FlexTT5 has firmware updates that go through updates, adding or improving camera and speedlight models and adaptable behavior. Hypersync - see my other comment - really needs timing optimization between flash rise time and shutter lag so it differs depends on specific camera and flash models.