Gigantor - A Chossy Climbing Film

Спорт

Australian Climber Zac Vertrees is at home on the Dogface climbing Gigantor, a route first aid climbed in 1967 by John Ewbank. Zac freed the route in 2005, yet it has not seen a second free ascent since. 15 years later in 2020, he returns to re-climb it and finds it tougher than ever before. The Dogface is notoriously scary, gear can pop, holds break, rusty bolts snap by hand and the climbing is always a sandy affair. Zac gave the route 26R. Just quietly though, he mentioned to me that The Great Shark Hunt a grade 30/5.13c crack at Mount Buffalo felt easier than Gigantor...
Filmed and Edited by Ben Sanford
/ bensanfordmedia
www.bensanfordmedia.com
Film supported by La Sportiva Australia
Cameras used:
On the wall:
Sony A7R2 8bit 🥴, Canon R, and DJI Mavic 2 Pro
For Interviews:
Sony A7R2, Canon R5, Red Dragon X
Thanks to:
Zac Vertrees
Kamil Sustiak
Adam Darragh
Macciza McPherson
Paul Thomson
Bruce Cameron
John Ewbank
Bryden Allen
Ryan Jay Sayan
Jake Anderson
Albert Manning
National Library Australia
Songs:
Alice In Winter- Nuclear Conception
Alsever Lake - No Place To Go
Wastelander - Uncanny Valley
Cody Martin - Altered Fate
Wastelander - Grit
Wastelander - Boothill

Пікірлер: 93

  • @paulheimweh
    @paulheimweh Жыл бұрын

    16:28 its full of screws. why?

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    There’s an 11 or 12 bolt belay there. Bunch of which I filmed when Paul mentions the bad bolts. Neither the FA or FFA used them at all. They were put in by parties trying to repeat the route on aid and getting scared. When John climbed it in one pitch for the FA he didn’t need belay stations and as you know Zac wasn’t using any bolts at all.

  • @Debrugger

    @Debrugger

    Жыл бұрын

    @@bensanfordmedia Holy shit these 9 nails in a pile of dirt a so sketch dude! Let's add 2 more then it'll be good

  • @richardcarey169

    @richardcarey169

    Жыл бұрын

    No falls,,,,,no balls

  • @patrickhatch2461
    @patrickhatch2461 Жыл бұрын

    You know it's a classic when you get the second ascent of your own route over a decade later lol

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Hahaha, a trade route! Hopefully the vid sparks some more ascents

  • @patrickhatch2461

    @patrickhatch2461

    Жыл бұрын

    @@bensanfordmedia haha I'm sure it will, best Aussie climbing vid I've seen for a while. Seems like this route requires a particularly brave climber though

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    @@patrickhatch2461 Hahaha absolutely, definitely not a queue of people ready to jump on it.

  • @jasonlonon4198
    @jasonlonon4198 Жыл бұрын

    Everything about this has such an old school feel.....a rarity amongst the climbers and climbs of the current Era. Thank you! Keep up the good work and Zac, keep crushing it!

  • @billbegg1139
    @billbegg1139 Жыл бұрын

    Awesome video on every level- the climbing, the history, the story, the camera work, Zac, Macca and so on. You have created something unique and so Australian. Congratulations to everyone involved.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks for the kind words Bill, appreciate it!

  • @SteveArsenault-dm4kb
    @SteveArsenault-dm4kb Жыл бұрын

    I wish John Ewbank was around to view this video. I'll never forget my encounter with a huge Huntsmen spider while leading the crux pitch on Goliath, with John back in 1969. Great video!

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Would have been awesome to have him speak about some of the many wild times he had on those cliffs. That sounds exciting to say the least. Thanks Steve!

  • @MPHshoots

    @MPHshoots

    Жыл бұрын

    I would actually shit myself.

  • @Joe-vp4fi
    @Joe-vp4fi Жыл бұрын

    One of the most speccy walls in the mountains for sure! Great flick.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    So epic, particularly from Narrowneck. Thanks Joe!

  • @jessepawlowski5832
    @jessepawlowski5832 Жыл бұрын

    Amazing presentation, Zac is a total crusher good on him.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks Jesse, he certainly is an animal!

  • @Whiteblooder
    @Whiteblooder Жыл бұрын

    Come visit Czech paradise Zac. You'd love the climbing.

  • @micchops3921
    @micchops3921 Жыл бұрын

    This has to be one of the best Aussie climbing films ever made. The culture and history, the climbing and interview style, all top notch. My only gripe is that it's not 40 minutes longer.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks very much, such a nice comment, definitely could make a full length film on all the stories that wall holds, I’ve got a bigger Blue Mountains trad film in the works with 9 cracks.

  • @micchops3921

    @micchops3921

    Жыл бұрын

    @@bensanfordmedia Epic, can't wait!

  • @DekarNL
    @DekarNL Жыл бұрын

    Those drone shots are the best

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you!

  • @cjod33
    @cjod33 Жыл бұрын

    Love it! Great to see the guys are still out there. Not much compares to the feeling of being shit scared and being in control, just.

  • @Jindy2
    @Jindy2 Жыл бұрын

    Great climbing and great filming. S glad you included some historical perspectives.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!

  • @kazhatfield1346
    @kazhatfield1346 Жыл бұрын

    That gears really bad 😅 So sketch! Thanks to everyone involved with this film. 👏🙌🔥❤️

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks very much!

  • @OwenDavis-yk4bc
    @OwenDavis-yk4bc Жыл бұрын

    Loved it. Made me homesick

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Cheers Owen, always love coming home to the Blueys!

  • @Seno-bz4ij
    @Seno-bz4ij Жыл бұрын

    Great film. Amazing wall, great story, and the camerawork compliments the climbing so well. Awesome job

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!

  • @RopeLab
    @RopeLab Жыл бұрын

    Well shot and told. Well done all and thank you.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks very much Richard!

  • @evelynevertrees6876
    @evelynevertrees6876 Жыл бұрын

    Great film, loved it. The climbing and climbers and great camera work etc.

  • @matthewburnett6671
    @matthewburnett6671 Жыл бұрын

    awesome work guys!

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Cheers Matt!

  • @GaryHayes
    @GaryHayes Жыл бұрын

    Fantastic

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you Gary!

  • @talisenbrown-robbins4024
    @talisenbrown-robbins40248 ай бұрын

    Epic film dude, pleasure to witness! Thanks heaps

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    7 ай бұрын

    Thank you, Tali, much appreciated!

  • @superdad942
    @superdad942 Жыл бұрын

    Rad send! Nice nut ladder! What a sick climb. I've said " bomber cam" a hundred times. And thought 'bomber nut' another tenfold. I don't care what cam you love.... nothing beats the security of a sinking BOMBER nut. Unless the rock breaks that is.... yeah passive gear.

  • @ABDILLASOUR
    @ABDILLASOUR Жыл бұрын

    Wow loved it.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks Anthony!

  • @uwedannwolf3434
    @uwedannwolf3434 Жыл бұрын

    Scary shit. Keep hanging on Zac !!

  • @MickTurnbullFilms
    @MickTurnbullFilms Жыл бұрын

    Awesome work. Great story, filming and editing. Cheers.

  • @duncanblakey9343
    @duncanblakey9343 Жыл бұрын

    That was simply awesome!! The filming, the music, the history… just masterful

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks so much Duncan, kind compliment!

  • @GoshenWatts
    @GoshenWatts Жыл бұрын

    Yeah - great to see a whole climb - including placing the gear - something Trad videos often skip. Cheers.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks Goshen, figured I’d target this one at climbers not general public so I tried not to chop it up too much and make it faster than it actually is. Glad you enjoyed it!

  • @richardcarey169
    @richardcarey169 Жыл бұрын

    Good to see someone prepared to get some air under their feet on wiggly runouts instead of a bolt ladder

  • @andrewcarr3690
    @andrewcarr3690 Жыл бұрын

    Great Film!

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks Andrew!

  • @gerigTT
    @gerigTT Жыл бұрын

    Awesome!

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks Gerhard!

  • @peetiez
    @peetiez Жыл бұрын

    Love all the history!

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Glad to hear it!

  • @theruffiankj4164

    @theruffiankj4164

    Жыл бұрын

    And the tinkle of hexes ...

  • @codygoldberg7463
    @codygoldberg7463 Жыл бұрын

    Cedar Wright has entered the chat.

  • @day2ra
    @day2ra Жыл бұрын

    top notch!

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks AJ!

  • @oryipchu2830
    @oryipchu2830 Жыл бұрын

    👍💪💪💪

  • @-dirk-65
    @-dirk-65 Жыл бұрын

    'A rich experience of terror' - Sign ME up.

  • @stuarthickson6103
    @stuarthickson6103 Жыл бұрын

    Totally hard core.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Pretty wild hey, cheers Stuart!

  • @eprohoda
    @eprohoda Жыл бұрын

    dude-How are you?!superb edition~ese u around.✨

  • @nateblakely4674
    @nateblakely4674 Жыл бұрын

    Amazing film, can't say it makes me want to get on that face, but cool to watch. I'm curious, if the first ascensionist placed bolts, how come they haven't been replaced with modern hardware? Are there ethical restraints in australia that prevent this? In the states it's generally accepted to rebolt, just not retrobolt. No wonder there hasn't been many other ascents with the state of the protection.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks Nate! I believe none of the bolts were put in by John Ewbank on the first ascent and Zac didn’t use any either for the free ascent. So technically you don’t need them. That 12 bolt belay station could be removed by tapping the heads of most of those bolts or grinder and glue and sand over the top. But I think at this point it’s just historical. Nobody wants to rebolt a line like that as it’d be controversial based on my points above.

  • @dwaynekoblitz6032
    @dwaynekoblitz6032 Жыл бұрын

    My mind will over passed one question. Why??

  • @osmanyenisen7082
    @osmanyenisen708210 ай бұрын

    🖤🕷️🇹🇷🕷️🖤

  • @LoganCharlesII
    @LoganCharlesII Жыл бұрын

    That old man below him is probably thinking, "Don't fall on me dude,"

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Hahaha, I wouldn't be surprised if it was in his mind at the start of the second pitch.

  • @olddirtydoggy
    @olddirtydoggy Жыл бұрын

    I'm assuming he topped out on the 2nd try? Film stops short of top out which is quite odd. Great watch even though some of the footage was repeated and not compiled in order.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    He tops out in that last shot, he's topping out while it's zooming out. Nothing hard at the end there in the final metre. Also, it's an 80m crack, a lot of the moves are going to look repetitious. The first section was intentionally repeated later when the whole route was shown. Cheers!

  • @olddirtydoggy

    @olddirtydoggy

    Жыл бұрын

    @@bensanfordmedia Thanks for taking time to reply, looking forward to seeing more of your work.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    @@olddirtydoggy Thanks very much, got a hard overhung track crack one that's nearly done, should be out in the next few months!

  • @antybris
    @antybris Жыл бұрын

    What helmet are you wearing? I didnt know dmm made helmets! I want one

  • @zacharyvertrees7171

    @zacharyvertrees7171

    Жыл бұрын

    DMM do sell helmets the Coron this is a Italian helmet with Dmm stickers.

  • @davehause8571
    @davehause8571 Жыл бұрын

    Maybe in another millennia or two the choss will give way to the harder rock underneath.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Could be waiting a while but I’m sure you’re right!

  • @SteveMcMief
    @SteveMcMief Жыл бұрын

    Great climbing! However, I lost track how often the same move was shown over and over. Did you really think nobody would notice?

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    80m cracks tend to have similar moves. either it wasn't the same move or it was when I was intentionally showing a part Zac was talking about. Wasn't trying to fool anyone thanks boss

  • @Waferdicing
    @Waferdicing Жыл бұрын

    🤎💛💛💙🖤🖤

  • @stuarthickson6103
    @stuarthickson6103 Жыл бұрын

    I didn't know there was an "R" grade in OZ .. it was M0, M1 etc. Is tha the same?

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    We occasionally have R ratings but nothing is really described as to how sketchy it particularly is, unlike the UK.

  • @Azazel518
    @Azazel518 Жыл бұрын

    1:35...never hold the rope in your teeth...if you fall you can watch your teggy's heading down into the valley before you do...Just saying 🤒

  • @Max-ik9qb
    @Max-ik9qb Жыл бұрын

    So whos idea was it to make a TRAD climbing video and edit out all the gear placements?! WTF was the point?!

  • @zacharyvertrees7171

    @zacharyvertrees7171

    Жыл бұрын

    Your obviously not very attentive.

  • @bensanfordmedia

    @bensanfordmedia

    Жыл бұрын

    Sorry Mr Salty, if I included every placement and move it would have been an hour of climbing. I also didn’t want to get in the way of Zac while he climbed, I wasn’t gonna be the reason he whipped, so I couldn’t film close ups of every piece going in. Sorry to disappoint…. 🙄

  • @mrkanangra
    @mrkanangra Жыл бұрын

    I was at Dogface aka the landslide a month ago - wifey and I went for a look/ drive for the day ( stopped by Hominy for the best pies in the world). There were some SES crews climbing/training around "change Planets"...... the exposure is crazy!.....

  • @mrkanangra
    @mrkanangra Жыл бұрын

    Holy Mackerel you are looking old!. Remember climbing with you at Nowra and bluies with Sax and Garth...I guess we all age.... I wonder how Big Red Mark is these days?????. You look like a Gangster from the Bronx......

Келесі