This is a good book. Does provide a step by step introduction to how to build things kzread.infoUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 , also does offer some steps. Includes pictures to give you ideas for layouts and such. If you are looking for a guide, this is not exactly what you want. But if you are trying to familiarize yourself with the way that pole barn building and other out buildings, are made, then this will work just as you need it to. A few things in this book are a barn (of course), detached garage, storage building, and coops.

I did a project similar to this. A problem that occurred with it was that our vapor barrier got punctured allowing bathroom moisture into the insulation cavity. One wiring penetration wasn’t tightened up. 5 years later there was moisture in that insulation space and some rot in the roof deck. Roofer found it. We went back and fixed it. You can’t be too careful when you insulate in a space like that, especially if there is a shower in a bathroom or a kitchen. Venting moisture sources is so important.

TIP for working with insulation and fiberglass or polycarbonate translucent/transparent panels: Reverse your saw blade. It still cuts like butter through the materials but it does not kick out so much stuff all over the place.

@jeffborders5526

5 жыл бұрын

Berkey Family this stuff cuts with a knife...

@berkeyfamily9828

5 жыл бұрын

@@jeffborders5526 Whatever tickles your fancy!

@greenstar3411

5 жыл бұрын

Also reverse blade works to cut any thin aluminum siding - good thinking

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Tried that out in a new video kzread.info/dash/bejne/jGZtlMuuhpyXmKQ.html

@tonycollinsworth7393

3 жыл бұрын

Are you saying that three layers of that expensive stuff is cheaper than spray foam

Pretty ingenious. And I like how you left the all important gap between the roof decking and foam. And the third layer of foam stops the thermal bridging.

@bigtimepimpin666

Жыл бұрын

By "thermal bridging" you mean where the lumber, in this case joists, leave gaps that are not insulated? (I'm a lay person). I am curious, How think can you go on that third sheet? And how do you hang and join the drywall? It seems like it would be really hard to do it well.

Your video is great, it is drawing out a plethora of comments from which we can overthink everything. We think you did a great job and credit you for pioneering this system. A friend did well with a cold roof design 20 years ago. (Your 1 1/2" spacing kept his shingles strong). Our plan was one layer of foam board followed by spray but you showed this to be more economical.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your kind comments!

That’s exactly the idea I’ve been batting around in my head for years. Thanks for the vid.

@mmart4321

3 жыл бұрын

😆 batting

@dukegatlin1981

2 жыл бұрын

I know Im asking randomly but does any of you know a way to log back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot my password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me.

@chandlerpablo6784

2 жыл бұрын

@Duke Gatlin Instablaster =)

@dukegatlin1981

2 жыл бұрын

@Chandler Pablo thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.

@dukegatlin1981

2 жыл бұрын

@Chandler Pablo It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D Thanks so much, you saved my ass :D

Cant thank you enough for posting this. I'm considering a diy for my attic and the visual of your thought process is enormously helpful. Thanks dude!

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

Nice Work. Thank you for reaching out to help others !

Hi Dave, thanks for this vid. Last Nov 2019 I applied your technique in the porch ceiling of my home and made it into a cathedral ceiling! I want to thank you for caring to prepare and edit and share your video. Throughout the layering of insulation I incorporated two different layers of bubble foil for radiant heat effect. :) You rock! Imitation is the best form of flattery. This proverb imitation is the sincerest form of flattery means that one imitates someone else because one admires that person or values what that person is doing. Cheers from Atlantic Canada during Covid pandemic :)

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

I am thoroughly flattered! I'd like to know how the bubble foil goes. Sounds like a toasty upgrade. Thanks so much for the kind comment!

@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs

3 жыл бұрын

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY You are most welcome and most deserving of supportive comments. Bubble foil is a thicker version of reflective foil. Here were the layers that were placed and I am so thrilled from the results mostly due to your dedication to helping others in projects like this. Hi. No spray foam in my cathedral ceiling project. Here is the layering starting from under the roof sheathing; 2 inch air space, reflective foil facing up towards roof sheathing, 6 inches of XPS styrofoam)R5/1inch=30R rating! yupeee!!! Then a vapour barrier, another layer of reflective foil but this time facing down towards living space area, 3/4 inch strapping which also helps in creating the air space the reflective foil application needs for radiant effect to take place, ceiling planks are also attached to the strapping and voila! It was quite a project with lots of caulking for air gaps and sealing joints and a sprinkle of can spray foam here and there for the gaps as well. Stay safe Dave during covid! Scary times!

I like how the 3rd layer covers the roof rafters, makes it a little harder on the drywall hanger but it does save a lot of energy. It's amazing just how much energy you lose from wooden studs.

@MikeJones-rk1un

5 ай бұрын

Thermal bridging can be eliminated by strapping.

@mar4380

5 ай бұрын

What's strapping?

I use a big shop vac hooked to the table saw for all my long rips. It cuts down on the foam board dust. Lots of dust like you show.

UPDATE!! How's the foam doing 3 years later??? We send an endoscope up the air gap. Check it out here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/Z6OHs8qJpqbcqpM.html

Thank you!! I’m a bit of a DIYer - redoing a master bedroom in a bungalow up in MA - 4x6 rafters. I was going to go closed cell spray foam because I didn’t want to lose headspace, but it’s so $$$! This video has completely changed my direction. Found R13 2” polyiso board - 3 layers will get me up to a compliant R 39 in my area and it will save me THOUSANDS. You are the man!

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

4 жыл бұрын

Awesome. Glad to have helped. Thanks for your comment!

@johnwhite2576

4 жыл бұрын

Plus on site cell foam is always a crap shoot in terms of mixing and applying chemicals correctly...if not right you cna only correct with a new roof !!

I had the same issue. We need only 1" of air gap above the insulation here in CA. Sister 1x2's to the rafters to give yourself 8" of space. Then take two layers of r-15, which will be 7" thick. Install normally. Prego.

Thanks. This gives me a good starting point.

Thanks for all the detail! Many vids will tell you some and show nothing. Awesome job!

hint for working with fibreglass. stay as cool as possible, and don't sweat. if this means planning your work for cool days, do so!!! Take a full, cool shower immediately after working, THEN heat yourself back up after you're fully scrubbed with the cold water. This helps BIG TIME for the itchiness.

Thank you for your effort and very helpful video.

LOVE the rain on the roof. Great place to sleep.

Looks like a toasty warm attic now, and for less money than spray foam! TY carpenter.

I had the idea of doing this. You’re the first video i’ve Found on it!

@GregoryGuay

3 жыл бұрын

did you try it yet?

Forget the worm drive or hand saw. Us an electric Turkey carving knife. Works awesome!! Thanks for the video.

@ShuasiBjorlen

5 жыл бұрын

Or a hot knife works even better, no dust and leaves a cleaner edge. Super cheap as well.

@kirkjohnson9353

5 жыл бұрын

My battery powered sawzall works really well although it takes a bit of skill to make nice cuts.

@mwnciboo

5 жыл бұрын

@@ShuasiBjorlen Hot Knife gives off alot of nasties when cutting chemical foam be careful man.

@seancrowe3353

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, it's like pick your poison. Good respirator for sure

@kevinbrauer7724

4 жыл бұрын

Yes carving knife, also Bosch scalloped jig saw blade for more custom cuts

Liked your technic, thanks for sharing !!

Wow! I scanned the comments and found I already saw this..... I have officially watched every video on KZread and am starting again! This video is a great place to start! tHanks for the video!

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

2 жыл бұрын

Ha ha! Thanks for the comment :-)

Bosch T313AW3 jig saw blade is designed to cut foam and will do so with little or no dust. 3 blades for $15 on Amazon.

@manit77

4 жыл бұрын

Also you can create a box fan with filters in the back.

@earnie219

4 жыл бұрын

That's very cool. I had taken an old PC power supply and hooked it up to three strands of SS wire twisted to make a heating element and cut my 2" foam board that way but will try these blades. Doing the same thing this guy is but was looking for a better method before I move forward. My board is 100% foamular no fiber. I had used that do-it-your self foam but that stuff is a pain in the but and $$$. They want $125 for the hose $ gun then you have to keep going no stopping or you will probably have to buy another hose and gun since it get stopped up and changes the mixture colossal mess and waste of money. I would only use it on a boat hull not a house space. Thanks again for that tip brother.

@jgrmtnjgrmtn3954

4 жыл бұрын

Is Amazon the only online source ...? ! Bezos has enough wealth...wait a little longer and buy elsewhere. America doesn't need monopolies and trillionaires !

@bimprince8489

3 жыл бұрын

Earnie g

@caseykittel

3 жыл бұрын

Cool. Thanks. I wonder if a sharp utility knife would work. No dust there.

Looks good; depending on how how hot your summer gets; a 10" auto shutter fan on one or both ends of the ridge would be a good addition; I had ridge vents across the entire length; and the heat still hangs without any prime mover. Peace

Thank you so much for this!! Your right you are the only video I have found that has the exact way my house is. So thank you!!

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

Have done similar - but with Festool TS55 hooked up to shop vac - absolutely minimum dust and super accurate cuts leaving only the awkward fitment requiring ‘filling’ the fit was so good that I could only press the insulation boards home slowly as had to allow the air pressure to dissipate.😀👍

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

4 жыл бұрын

Nice.

Polyiso foam cuts easily using a snap-off knife extended. Usually 2 passes with the knife will cut the foam cleanly. Plus this is quiet and no foam flying everywhere.

@brucea550

5 жыл бұрын

Exactly. I have cut hundreds of sheets that way. Probably thousands.

@SimonHomeintheEarth

4 жыл бұрын

But you can't cut out notches like he was doing. A Jig saw with a foam blade is what he needed.

@opkcts9025

4 жыл бұрын

Spot on. I always use an extending, snap-off, Stanley type craft knife to cut foam (and polystyrene) and I get no dust, no mess and accurate cuts. I can't believe how people use saw to cut it!

@bigk4755

4 жыл бұрын

Home in the Earth Yes you can, it is very easy to do. I do it all the time.

@bigk4755

4 жыл бұрын

opkcts especially circular saws. I don’t get that at all. Creates a huge mess.

I love GRK screws! Expensive, but well worth the cost!

@herptyderp4927

3 жыл бұрын

you could find an off brand and use off brand washers. those screws are about 3* the cost of the regular stuff

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Yes! They don't strip out when going in old dense wood!

In our area, home dep. sell a 2” thick iso board rated @ about R-13+, that has a heavy foil face on both sides. I’d advise sealing the edges using a good foil tape if edge is exposed. Our attics are Code @ R-40. Unfortunately, most common roof framing is the cheap trusses, which have too-narrow an eave angle to fit even R-20 nearer the wall edge. It’s tricky retrofitting that for better insulation. Here, we plan to push-out walls under the eaves, to gain interior space, and install exterior insulation..which will also help those narrow angles in the attic periphery be better insulated. Strategic deco ceiling-to-wall Coving at those edges can also camouflage more insulation there.

thank you. this is great. There was 0 insulation between Rafters in my place and I installed a Sika 1/2 inch Insulation below Roof Decking between rafters, with a 2 inch air gap below it, to at least have something. Used strapping above insulation as spacer - and below it to hold it in place. Attic has No ridge vent, and won't have one ( historical home / not dealing with the association) so I stopped the insulation 8-12 Inches from the roof ridge to avoid creating a heat bomb at the ridge. Will install Gable vents on either side of the attic to help move the heat out. While installing, when my face is right in front of the insulation and air gap, I can feel the heat. It's amazing. Also installing insulation between joists above all ceilings. Attic is not a living space, and not for storage, but it does have flexible A/C vents run through it, and Air Handler for AC is located in attic too. Hoping this moderate Sika 1/2 inch R 3.2 install with Gable Vents will reduce the "oven effect" in the attic.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

Ай бұрын

Awesome. I hope it works well for you :-)

You can use a Stinger cap nailer with 2” cap nail coils to make quick work of attaching the last layer of iso insulation to rafters.

@maddierosemusic

6 ай бұрын

How ya gonna do that when the foam board is 2"? Hmmm? :)

Because the portion of the wall is sloped, in Canada, it's considered a wall, as far as R-Value requirements. However, an air space of 2 1/2 inch is required. This is required to prevent choking air circulation between other compartments.

@frostycools1315

2 жыл бұрын

inaccurate

@p0llenp0ny

Жыл бұрын

@@frostycools1315 Because..

@frostycools1315

Жыл бұрын

@@p0llenp0ny r -50 is the min not r-30 , studs screwed not nailed, vapor seal boxes in interior partitions, no poly on top plates, and i only looked for less then 3 min of the video

Holy crap what a savings. Well worth the effort I'd say. I had no idea spray foam was so expensive. Whomever occupies that room will appreciate it because without that insulation it would be a sauna up there. I have a similar attic room and I actually tacked up on the ceiling this foil radiant barrier they sell at Home Depot. It's quilted with an air pocket built in and made a huge difference. Then I screwed down a grid of those 1x2 wood battens on top of the foil blanket and tacked on cedar planks for a cedar ceiling, so there's an air gap between the foil and the cedar ceiling. Must have dropped the room temperature down by 10 degrees or more.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment. I'm sure some others might want to try that with the foil too. I saw it at HD too and was wondering how it would work. That's useful info.

I used this exact material for my house addition. Fortunately, a manufacturer is only about 10 miles from me and sold "seconds" for a fraction of the cost of new. I saved myself thousands, but it was a lot of work and a itchy mess. I filled 2x10 rafters, so my R value was over 50. FWIW, a table saw works well to cut the material.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

That's awesome, Bob. ... I did another video on cutting it, didn't try a table-saw though kzread.info/dash/bejne/jGZtlMuuhpyXmKQ.html

Radiant barrier on the top layer would have been a great idea.

@TheChupacabra

3 жыл бұрын

What’s the best way to do that though. I haven’t found a baffle that wasn’t pure flimsy junk, much less a high reflectivity one.

@bdrepin

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheChupacabra Aluminum Foil. Yes, plain old foil.

@CaseAgainstFaith1

3 жыл бұрын

What would be the proper spacing for the radiant barrier? As in, touching the plywood? Touching the insulation? Somehow suspended between them? Also, the rafters are supposed to also be protected by barrier, not just the flats between the rafters. So, how would that work?

@TheChupacabra

3 жыл бұрын

@@CaseAgainstFaith1 I’m planning on going with touching the baffle or the insulation. That radiation will be reflected back (in part) presumably to get reabsorbed by the underside of the roof deck. I’m hoping that as this radiant ping pong is going on that the inch or two of air channel is continually pulling cold air from the soffit up to the ridge and out, taking heat with it.

Genius! I just purchased an old home with 2x6 rafters, and someone back in the 70s or 80s hung fiberglass insulation right against the boards that the shingles are attached to (on the underside obviously). I’ll have to rip that stuff down, but I’ll give this method a try. THANKS!

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

May you endeavor be a successful one. Thanks for the comment!

@trishatrisha911

2 жыл бұрын

I have the same issue.

@tipr8739

2 жыл бұрын

I just bought a home from the 20s and the only tring under the roof decking is a layer of air then on the underside of the rafters are stapled cardboard boxes 🤦‍♂️

I usually fir the rafters 2” down for this exact reason. Good solution either way.

Great video and very informative, thanks

I'm in commercial roofing and very familiar with this material. Only thing I would have changed would have been to Isolate the air cavity with poly film. The facer of this insulation is organic and depending on location could result in unanticipated condensation and mold growth potential.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for that info, Chris.

@acreageliving

6 ай бұрын

poly before the insulation? or on top of the insulation?

We use inch and a half polyiso on our rim joists with 2X4 compression blocking under stud centers to nail the belly board to. I use a wallboarder's Buddy drywall cutter for the polyiso. Score both sides and snap. No dust floating around in the air. It is really accurate and straight

Excellent tutorial! Thanks so much!! We are tackling the same type project now in northern Wisconsin. Question: Why did you use batting insulation above the collar ties instead of the same rigid insulation you used on the slope?

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! ... I used the 9 1/2" batts above the collar ties because I had a deeper space to work with, and it's cheaper and easier to install. My goal was to do it all as cheaply as possible, while conserving headroom and meeting code. Thanks for the comment, C Bayles!

Having a house from 1900 it's not recommended to spray insulation. When buying the property two years ago knew I’d add an attic room, but needed to learn how. It's not as easy as I thought. With the Derecho storm hitting the property at 140 mph insurance with USAA is covering the roof, fascia, and new gutters. The contractor is sealing it so can add insulation and make it a room. So, that problem was solved with as little as my insurance deductible 😁 Older houses have great high-quality beams, but as you note not wide enough. Thankfully, the property has a pyramid-style roof, but don't wanna sacrifice height since I'm tall, and for future generations wanna ensure it'll suffice. This method is gold. I theorized and plotted with research, but nothing came close to this tutorial. Thank you for the wisdom and ideas. For here the energy inspection recommended a 36R value. I didn't call to ask for city rules. Thanks for the info.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the kind comment, Miss Patience. I wish you the best on your undertaking!

Good job.

I have a friend that does flat roofs, they use this exact insulation board on the roof before the rubber roof, he was talking about how high the r value was, I was building living quarters on a garage I already had, and I bought about 1500 sqft of these insulation boards from the company they used. I had it stacked on my trailer in my garage intel I was ready for it, I walk in there one warm day and the fumes coming of that insulation smelled terrible, it was so bad I thought no way em I using that in a air tight living space If it smells like that in this 50x50 with 16 ft ceiling garage, after doing some research and talking to the manufacture, this insulation is not certified for interior use, it’s sold for use on exterior of building, it is not Certified for indoor air quality requirements. I decided against using it, and sold it. It’s now on the exterior of another Friends roof he used it under a metal roof.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

We've never noticed a smell, but you're right, this type of insulation is typically used under membrane roofs. According to GAF, the manufacturer, the only stipulation is it must be separated from the interior by 1/2" gypsum board per Section R316.5.2 of the IRC. ...You've definitely given folks something to consider. Thanks for the comment.

Well done!!!! Where we live it is R22 on the diagonal & Vertical & R60 in top horizontal (Attic). Never thought of using your method and it is indeed a sound solution. Just as effective as sprayfoam but without the cost and possible off-gasing (if the two chemicals are not mixed just right). If I ever have to do this again I will copy your solution! Bravo

@brucea550

5 жыл бұрын

Polyiso off gasses for years, what’s the difference? At least spray foam won’t shrink and have gaps like this does.

@JB-ct3cr

5 жыл бұрын

@@brucea550 sprayfoam can offgas if the two chems are not mixed perfectly. Rigid foam does not. Gaps can be filled. If mixed right, spray foam is good but limited to the building structure. It is a death nail to older homes if used on double or triple brick construction. Eventually creates blowout in bricks.

@matthewmatheny

4 жыл бұрын

@@JB-ct3cr how does it create blowout of bricks?

@JB-ct3cr

4 жыл бұрын

@@matthewmatheny A double brick wall has an air gap between the two walls that cross over every 5th or 6th course where the bricks are perpendicular to the course. This interlocks the two walls. That air gap was intended to let some heat from inside the house to penetrate through the inner course and thaw out any moisture that accumulated on the inside of the outter wall. Keep in mind that when these houses were built insulation was not what it is today. You were lucky if you got horse hair. Our home was built in 1886 and had none. Double brick walls use the suns radiant heat to warm up the walls creating an R13 effect while working with internal escaping heat to thaw out walls. All that being said, if you starve out oxygen and internal heat from hitting the inner wall then the outter wall becomes more impacted to thaw/freeze. As that water accumulates in the brick over time the freezing expansion breaks down the brick. It takes time but it is a guarantee. Batt insulation against a double brick wall is fine so long as it does not exceed R30. In a stick frame home this is fine but sprayfoam and yesterdays building tech are proving to fail over time. If you live in an old stone home where the floor joists rest on the first course of bricks instead of internal framing, sprayfoam will suffocate the ends of the wood excellerating rot. Hope this helps. Builders Science of Ontario also has info on Do's and Don'ts of renovating homes built prior to 1900

@matthewmatheny

4 жыл бұрын

@@JB-ct3cr great info

Very nice!! Thanks for the video.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching!

Just read over a lot of the comments, and here's some more info ... I cut the foamboard outside and wore a dust-mask too. I'm in zone 3 R-30 is code for ceilings where I live. This is permitted and inspected construction. I told the inspector my insulation plan before-hand and he approved. It passed inspection and is now covered in finished and painted drywall. The insulation is GAF Energyguard. I could not find the board for sale online, but purchased a pallet of them from a local roofing supply company (ABC Supply, Greenville, SC) for less than $20 per sheet. www.gaf.com/en-us/roofing-products/commercial-roofing-products/insulation-cover-boards/cover-board/hd-polyiso/energyguard-hd-cover-board These particular boards are usually used in exterior roofing applications, but I confirmed with the dealer that I could use them how I did. The boards are polyisocyanurate covered with a vapor permeable fiber-reinforced paper. The inspector required 1.5 inches ventilation space between the insulation and the roof regardless of what type of insulation was used (including spray-foam) [*edit: unless my shingle manufacturer okayed no ventilation. They did not.] That is why my last layer is across the rafters. I would have rather it all been inside the bays and had the headroom instead of having a thermal break, but had to do what I had to do. Thanks for the comments. A lot of good suggestions out there. **WATCH THIS BEFORE YOU CUT FOAM kzread.info/dash/bejne/jGZtlMuuhpyXmKQ.html

@woohunter1

5 жыл бұрын

I can't believe your inspector required 1 1/2" space between insulation and roof sheathing. He must not have ever heard of a "hot roof". A lot of builders are doing it the way now and for good reason, just have to use "better" roof materials. I didn't agree with a non-vented roof at first till I did some extensive research.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

5 жыл бұрын

The inspector said I could eliminate the ventilation space if I contacted the shingle manufacturer and they okayed it. I contacted the manufacturer and they did not okay it. Their warranty documentation required the installation to have at least the 1.5 inch space between the sheathing and decking.-- I think it's good that the inspector's default requirement is the spacing (at least until the rules officially change) because a lot of folks would be unknowingly voiding their roof warranties. Though I was wary at first I like the inspector(s) I've had. They've been very fair and open-minded (in my opinion).

@woohunter1

5 жыл бұрын

Dave Voskos makes sense, I know there are builders in Texas that use this method without any problems, usually doing metal roofs or premium fiberglass shingles.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

5 жыл бұрын

--Thanks for the comment. It was a good question. It spurred me to go back and edit my original comment to clarify.

@russellhenry1188

5 жыл бұрын

@@woohunter1 everybody who is a internet ninja knows spray foam is the only thing that works lol but like he mentioned his shingle mfg would not sign off on spray foam because they are smart enough to know that without airspace the shingles would not last and would be a warranty issue....any real builder would either leave space usually if they know sprayfoam will be used and it's much easier to vent the roofing if new construction

I wish I could have done that to my house. My 2x6 rafters are not accessible accept through a tiny crawl space. Your project looks great though.

I just went through this. Building code approved all insulation installed and within 3 months everything weaped and condensates so bad it would have rotted off the roof in less than a couple years. It had full R and air space and still failed. Spray foam, spray foam, spray foam. Worth every cent.

Hi, this is exactly the idea I was looking for. Thanks for sharing this. My rafters are spaced with the gap being 14-15 inches. What do you recommend for cutting the 8x4 iso panels? Go 12 inches wide and get 3 out of a sheet and fill the gap left and right with spray foam? Did you fasten the first two layers separately, or all three with the rafter screws at once? Thanks in advance! Herb

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Good questions, Herb. If I were working with 16 OC rafters like it seems you have, I'd cut the boards about 14.5 inches wide, or a hair wider (enough for a friction fit), and use the leftover 4.5" for cracks and crevices or cut slivers to help wedge any boards in place that don't have enough friction to hold them (fasteners aren't used for the first 2 layers--just friction). I know it sounds a little wasteful, but otherwise there's no good way (that I can think of) to hold the boards in place. If you end up trying the 12" cuts and it works well, please comment back. There are always better ways to do things, and you might have found one. Thanks for the comment, and all the best on your project!

Nice to see someone doing it right.

@thomasschafer7268

3 жыл бұрын

Shure? In Europa werden don't do this for 20 years. You Cannes make so much mistakes. Look at the airthickness in this projekt. Foam is Not thick.

This is the best job I’ve seen yet. Did you consider a sealant or coating (maybe aluminumized) on the underside of the roof. I was thinking that so much hot humid air is going to be moving through these conduits that protecting the wood would be wise. I was also thinking about using a foil faced foam to reflect more of that radiant heat back at the roof.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

2 жыл бұрын

Just reading through some comments I missed. Thanks Mike. I thought about it, but I was trying to get by with the least expense and satisfy the inspector. We just scoped the roof though, check it out 3 years later kzread.info/dash/bejne/Z6OHs8qJpqbcqpM.html

Best to cut that stuff outside, but what a pain. Great job!

Countersunk screws work nicely with fender/repair/penny washers and sit flush. An insulation saw with teeth like a bread knife makes less powder. Foil faced PIR insulation gives a built in vapour barrier. Foam fill any gaps and cover all joints with aluminium tape.

Just foam it. Leaving an air space invites moisture-laden air to condense inside of the cavity. University of Dayton had this problem, removed all the insulation, foamed 4" of closed-cell foam on the underside of the cathedral roof deck. Everybody happy, and all good. Montgomery County building department (who had originally insisted on an air space) admitted they were wrong.

@Bigshoots86

2 жыл бұрын

He just did a 3 year update with a borescope and the roof decking looked fine.

@dirttdude

2 жыл бұрын

Dude totally showed how he provided code ventilation at each rafter.... I'm putting a double throwdown impeachment fact check on to you for false information propaganda, hate speech, insurrection, racism, terrorism and racist terrorism wich is a hate crime. The racism made me sad and i wound up crying and peeing in my pants and that's assault which is a misdemeanor in most States. I don't even know where to begin about how you should be completely deplatformed and banned from the internet forever for openly speaking despairingly about Montgomery County. No! Not everybody is happy, i'm totally triggered and i must inform you by law that i am going to my safe spot, slamming the door behind me and calling my emotional support therapists to tell on you.

@remy241

2 жыл бұрын

Spray foam is slowly being outed in northern Ontario, impossible to get consistent quality control. Rock-wool, which is replacing spay foam, does the same thing for most applications, and it’s fire and mold proof.

@bayougtr

2 жыл бұрын

Totally unnecessary. Obvious wrong method of installation was used. Leaving air gaps between joints & seams should be addressed during intalation, joints get taped and gaps filled and sealed. Even BlueSkin as first barrier will stop any leaks. As far as a home attic diy; this will be a excellent start.

I have never heard of a building inspector forcing r30 for a remodel on existing construction... New additions, yes but if it was legal when built, they can't force you to upgrade it.

@MrPeterJHarrison

9 ай бұрын

There's bound to be some variation from local to local but, at least where I live in the Pacific Northwest, converting an area from an unfinished/non-occupancy space to a living space must include bringing it up to modern code standards. So, if a loft conversion area isn't properly insulated, you must install additional insulation. If there were windows at either end of the attic, but they don't meet egress or energy standards, you have to replace or even reframe and replace the windows. Electrical, plumbing, the pitch of the staircase all have to satisfy modern code requirements, too.

@Josh.1234

9 ай бұрын

@@MrPeterJHarrison well remodeling unfinished space is a different thing, granted how are they going to know if it was finished or not previously. First inspections come after you already gut it so they wouldn't know. In our jurisdiction, if an area was ever livable, then you can gut/remodel it. They can't force you to rebuild the building to achieve code compliance if it met code in the past.

@johngermany2089

8 ай бұрын

I think the key is that it wasn’t living space before the remodel so it now has to come up to existing code if you want a permit.

@Josh.1234

8 ай бұрын

@@johngermany2089 yeah if the home owner isn't claiming it was a livable space, then they might force him. But there are large windows already up there, that would be odd to have if it was completely unfinished. Also livable is not necessarily based on current code but the code under which it was originally built or remodeled.

@riggitydoo5116

6 ай бұрын

Permit is mistake #1.

Huge savings. Thanks!

Nice job friends.

I understand you need a channel between the rafters from the soffits to the ridge vent. But do you have intake vents at the soffits themselves, or just need an air channel between insulation and shingles so they can breathe (in effect just allowing airflow from the ridge vent)?

@jonwikan3986

Жыл бұрын

channel/air gap is needed if there are soffit and ridge vents but if using aluminum foil faced the gap is needed to reflect heat back out. Obviously this here is not a shiny surface on the polyiso. In a case of no soffit and ridge vents probably no gap and make sure everything connecting to that roof space is absolutely air tight for an unvented roof assembly. I just re decked my rood after this particular assembly after 12 years or so and there was no deck rot aside from what was there from leaks 20-30 years ago but I sealed every penetration, every wire, top plate etc....I replaced the deck because I am getting solar and wanted thicker than the 75 year old 3/8" deck.

The technique is interesting and it gives an air-break for the framing lumber which is good. The thing I don't understand is why do so much work to avoid a larger rafter. Just make it 2 x 10 rafters and avoid all of the finishing issues of the foamboard on the interior ceilings?

@bobjoatmon1993

2 жыл бұрын

Have you priced a 2x10 lately? Besides which, this isn't new construction, it's a remodeling if an old house. Here in Texas we have no snow loads and a lot of builders use 2x4 for rafters. Only a custom home where the architect required it would go for wider boards.

Could you have just spray foam in between layers of the 2 inch foam board? Looking to do the exact same thing. Was thinking of batts on the knee walls and ceiling, but I've seen others do the whole thing with foam board.

Really really apreciated.i will do mine

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Good luck with yours. Thanks for the comment :-)

Dave, What zone are you in? I like the idea but two things - where do you find this stuff? And second, is it safe to have that paper packing on the foam when you are layering it? It's a common no-no to have something like faced poly-iso stacked because you trap moisture in between two layers that can never evaporate once you seal the gaps. Same principal with laying paper faced fiberglass insulation on top of paper faced fiberglass insulation. Nice work, be sure to invest in a $30 respirator so your lungs don't kill you from those particals.

@garettdoornwaard4822

4 жыл бұрын

Roofers apply this "iso" in layers all the time. Not a problem.

@glengivens8986

4 жыл бұрын

Nicpedia It was stated that The poly-Iso is faced with a permeable paper layer.

I cut 2" foilfaced foamboard with a razor just like drywall, it's quicker and if you razor it well it breaks very evenly.

@AA-zq1sx

4 жыл бұрын

Sure, but that makes too much sense and isn't macho enough. Why do it the non-messy way when there's a 10000rpm power tool handy?! LOL

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

you're right kzread.info/dash/bejne/jGZtlMuuhpyXmKQ.html wish I'd known that sooner

Great job gonna do this to my pole barn cabin already have bubble foil on roof under metal I knew I needed air gap thanks

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Good luck!

@rogerd0

3 жыл бұрын

I also have a pole barn that we are turning into a shop. It also has the bubble wrap under metal. The reason for air gap is so warm moist air can vent out and that is the problem I'm having with the bubble wrap/moisture barrier.

@lawnmowerman4040

3 жыл бұрын

@@rogerd0 Mine got insulated on the inside along with ship lap on ceiling, walls are 6” thick stuffed with insulation too we don’t have electric yet but it feels cool inside even in the 90’s

To cut without a mess, box cutter score both sides and snap. Or box cutter for the facing and a hot wire cutter for the foam

You can tape a vacuum hose to the back of the saw

@kasabiantigran4326

2 жыл бұрын

Or you can try using utility knife and cut it like a drywalls...

should have put some reflective foil on the top layer to reflect the radiant heat coming in from the sun....

@danielmilliken1684

3 жыл бұрын

A vapor barrier in a cold space like that is usually a bad idea. If any wet air gets under it there's no way for it to dry.

@garethheathcote4988

3 жыл бұрын

He didn't say vapour barrier he said silver foil insulation as a solar reflector. The most common pir board insulation that we use here in the uk has a silver effective coating on both sides,it adds to the insulation value. We use insulation like king span or celotex it's worth googling. You can actually get thin silver insulation on a roll that has good r value and it's only a quarter of an inch thick.

@enkrypt3d

3 жыл бұрын

@@danielmilliken1684 yea i'm not talking about vapor barriers....

Thanks for the video. I didn't see how you attached the top layer. Did you use long screws and a washer like on the 3rd layer to attach so the layer was suspended?

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

4 жыл бұрын

The two layers between the joists are held with a friction fit. I tried to cut mine a hair too wide so they'd stay in on their own. But if cut too narrow, you can use foam trimmings/shims to wedge them in until you come back with a can of foam. The foam will glue them in place "permanently."

Great video and great way to save money!

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Get a couple 20 in box fans and a couple cheap 20x20 air filters and duct tape the air filters to the intake side of the box fan. Constantly filters the air... I'd still wear a mask bro!

@JamesGodish

5 жыл бұрын

Never thought of taping air filters before that's brilliant! Thanks.

@alliethistle8377

4 жыл бұрын

@Tony Tiger No, to keep the fiberglass in the air from settling and to draw the suspended fiberglass to the air filter. This is pretty smart and would be a heck of a lot cheaper than getting a super expensive filter designed for this purpose. For your health you really should avoid inhaling fiberglass it is glass and very thin. It is obvious once pointed out... fiberglass should not be a inhaled! It will burrow into your lungs and cause damage even though you cannot feel it. Does this mean you are certain to get cancer? No, but it is pretty likely that some folks will. It totally sucks that no one tells the labor things like this in the name of saving a buck.

@alliethistle8377

4 жыл бұрын

@Tony Tiger You are right if using manual tools. but if you are trying to speed things up with power tools you should take care as others have suggested. i e @Berkey Family suggestion of putting the saw blade on backward.

@mikeregier6376

4 жыл бұрын

Silicosis,.. use the filters and a dust mask... The fine dust from using the saw on it float in the air longer and better than you would think.

@rudygeorgiamulesandcountry1594

4 жыл бұрын

Filters plus vent it outside if you can, still wear a mask too !

Maybe cheap in 2018, but here in 2020 2" foam boar is pushing almost $30 a sheet. It will take me well over $1000 just in foam board for a little bonus room.

Beautiful Job

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Well done!

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks :-)

Timber framers that use 6"-8" thick roof panels don't have a air space?

@mayniac5.09

4 жыл бұрын

Bebo May vented nail base is an assembly that includes insulation, sheathing, and an airspace in 1 assembly.

@kenbeiser4443

4 жыл бұрын

Hot roofs work....I have built many. Sealing joints is the most difficult and important step.

How are you planning on attaching drywall to that now?

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

4 жыл бұрын

Drywall screws. kzread.info/dash/bejne/lnuZ0aNqmszFmbA.html

Very helpful. Thanks.

You can easily cut most foam insulation board with a 6" drywall taping knife and straight edge to almost eliminate the dust...

Forget the space, with foam just go direct contact with the roof. If your inspector doesn't understand, ask him to show the code. Spray foam is direct contact, and well fitted sealed foam panels is to. Ventilation is way overhyped. especially in the north east.

@aqdussiddiqui8187

5 жыл бұрын

I was about to say the same thing. California does not even allow this ventilation. Code mandates insulation to be in direct contact with the roof.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

4 жыл бұрын

He said go with what the shingle manufacturer says. GAF said it must be vented.

Best way to cut this poly-iso board without making a mess... Just sharpen the side of a thin putty knife. It will zip right through it. Trust me, last thing you want to be doing is cutting this with a saw.... They make special blades for doing it that are dustless,... But the putty knife will work just fine.

@BigWoodsman

5 жыл бұрын

I agree that the sharpened putty knife is the only way to go. Accurate and very clean cuts.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

4 жыл бұрын

I'll try to remember that when I do the other half of the attic. Thanks.

@mikeregier6376

4 жыл бұрын

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY you won't regret it. Sharpen the edge and you'll do fine, use whatever works for a straight edge if you need it. But after you get the hang of it, you should be able to free hand it fairly easily. Just watch your fingers, good luck.

@mikeregier6376

4 жыл бұрын

The covering on that particular poly-iso board is fiberglass reinforced felt. But thinking about your price per board. If you find a manufacturer around you. A lot of the times you can buy "seconds/non confirming" board directly from them. When I worked at Firestone building products, they would generally give it away if the person that came in asked if they had any to donate, if they asked to buy it, they would sell it for dirt cheap. Most the times the boards are perfectly fine, in our case anyhow, they typically just was barely under or over min/max thickness spec by a 1/16 or same for length width of the board. Just barely under/over spec. But still a perfectly fine board.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

tried your tip in a new video ... kzread.info/dash/bejne/jGZtlMuuhpyXmKQ.html it worked well!

I own a 2600 sqft cape with a walk-out basement, I had all exterior walls including exposed basement walls, the ceiling of the 18' dormer, and rim joist spray foamed, cost me $7500 including labor. Well worth the cost here in NH. I recommend you get a quote from your local insulation company before you insulate anything because they beat the cost of insulating my garage by $300, labor included!!! I quoted out the cost of the insulation from Home Depot and they came in $300 cheaper including labor, so I didn't have to deal with getting itchy, sweating my ass off, or breathing in any of the glass. The insulation companies buy the product wholesale which allowed them to quote cheaper than the big box stores including labor. Dave did a great job here and I'm impressed by how nice the job came out, but time is money so you need to include your time as well in the cost of the job, not to mention your health.

@volkan_boston

Жыл бұрын

great, if you do not mind sharing the name of insulation company in NH? thanks

@EddieCarrara1

Жыл бұрын

@@volkan_boston Builders installed products located in Auburn NH

they do make roxul 2x6 in r24 its super dense and hard to work with

Polyioscyanurate is know to experience thermal value drift. Within a year of install, you are closer to R 28. If you choose to follow a path like this, shoot a bit higher than the code value so that you meet your performance target after the drift.

@chadstocking7174

2 жыл бұрын

Polyiso dose not experience thermal drift.

@musicteacherbuilder

2 жыл бұрын

@@chadstocking7174 this is not what the research has proven. While the drift is minimal compared to some other products, it does drift as gravity will compress it a bit over time. Thus my comment about shooting for a few points higher than the desired level long term. Please research before making comments about “does not” vs “does minimally.”

@chadstocking7174

2 жыл бұрын

@@musicteacherbuilder I work for a polyiso manufacturer. The theory of drift was started by the rock wool industry. The only r-value drift you get is at -40 F when the gas’s in the polyiso starts to decrease the overall r value by .5. You recover the r value when the temperature increases. You will never have a compression drift unless it is installed as a roof system and foot traffic control s the reason for compression.

I ground all the teeth off a 10” blade so it has a knife edge. I cut lots of styrofoam installation with that blade in my table saw with little or no dust or styrofoam chips.

@kistuszek

4 жыл бұрын

That sounds pretty smart. We built a hot wire cutting table for a bigger project of ours. It works pretty quick. But your solution is cheaper smaller an more portable. I imagine it would work well with slow rpm as well. Maybe with a lubricated disc. Reciprocating saw maybe?

@misterlyle.

4 жыл бұрын

@@kistuszek Would a hot wire cutter work with the fiber-reinforced backing?

@kistuszek

4 жыл бұрын

@@misterlyle. I dont think so. But i have no experience with that stuff.

@misterlyle.

4 жыл бұрын

@@kistuszek Thanks for your reply! I think you are right.

late to the game seeing this, but thank you for the info! i have been scouring for info about this kind of project and very little out there. i did have two small questions based on the end of the video in case someone can answer. when you said batts, did you mean the fiberglass (pink) batts? if so, would using faced batts be a need to fasten within the new studs? would a friction fit material like Rockwool work as well? thanks to anyone in advance!

Good info! I've built a lot of SIP structures. Try using a hot knife to cut the foam. No dust.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment! new comparison video kzread.info/dash/bejne/jGZtlMuuhpyXmKQ.html ... I didn't use a hot knife because after some research I found it won't cut the fiberglass reinforced paper, and it cuts slower through thick foam.

Hey Dave, so when you added the drywall you simply used longer screws to overcome the foam? Thanks.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Alex, yes that's right, but it took me some figuring out because I couldn't find long enough drywall screws near me and had to order them. Here's a follow-up video where I talk about the drywall and screws. kzread.info/dash/bejne/lnuZ0aNqmszFmbA.html And thanks for the comment.

1) Could you do most of the cuts outside, at least all the repetitive standard dimensions? Leave the dust there instead of in the attic? 2) Could you cut it with a hot wire cutter so you would not create all the dust in the first place?

@tomsenft7434

5 жыл бұрын

You could use a knife. That's what I do.

@ajaipal1

4 жыл бұрын

Hot knife won't cut through fiberglass Though puf is butter

This is a great idea. We'll be doing something similar in the near future. How then do you hang your drywall on top of the insulation?

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Good luck, Drew ... here's the drywall video kzread.info/dash/bejne/lnuZ0aNqmszFmbA.html

Hey Dave, awesome video. Maybe I missed it but I'm wondering how you fastened the first two layers of foam board before getting the third one in with the cabinet screw + washer?

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

2 жыл бұрын

It was a friction fit, Aidan. And if there were boards that were slightly undersized and so didn't give a friction fit, I wedged some foam trimmings in the edges to hold it until successive layers and foam sealant could be applied. Thanks for the comment!

@aidanomalley1272

2 жыл бұрын

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Awesome, thanks for the reply!

I’m so jealous of your R-value #boss

How did you attach the drywall to the slanted walls, given the thickness of the insulation?

@MidlandTexan

5 жыл бұрын

Mark Proulx , I’m curious about that too.

@brucea550

5 жыл бұрын

Liquid adhesive and a few long screws, as long as the iso is screwed off really good.

@augustreil

5 жыл бұрын

Given that he has 24'' OC, 5/8'' drywall should be used if he's using drywall to prevent sagging and attach the same as any other, except longer screws.

@FamilyFriendlyDIY

4 жыл бұрын

kzread.info/dash/bejne/lnuZ0aNqmszFmbA.html

What if there’s no ridge vent, or soffit vent either? I’ve got a garage with similar plank roofing and only 2x4 rafters. Wondering if it makes sense to have that 1-1/2” air gap if there’s nowhere for the air to vent out

Almost all major shingle makers allow for a unvetted roof using closed cell foam that is at least 1.5-2". Also XPS foam you can score and snap with no mess

Pro tip - track saw and vacuum attachment [ie Festool] is the way to go here.

Decent job. Still didn't get R30 in that 2x6 area. You had to go to the outside. I would not put R13 fiberglass on those knee walls and fiberglass R30 on flat ceiling after all that work on the slopes. Finish the job with the foam boards.

@GregoryGuay

3 жыл бұрын

I was wondering what he would do about the knee walls. You suggest just continuing w/ the foam boards to the floor? How about air exchange in the finished space???

@tomgray3454

3 жыл бұрын

I agree how would you connect foam to FG batts just use more iso

I have seen foam insulation being cut with a hot wire on jobs. No idea about particulars (what types appropriate). Would be much less dusty

I have a similar situation with 2x4. I was going to sister truss 2x10s and do this process but some of the roof bays don't have soffits. I think I'm going to do flash and batt, I can't think of any other way to do the roof without soffit vents.