The Evapo-Rust instructions specifically said to leave it for 1-2 hours and avoid sunlight. I'm sure the intent is to wipe it off before it dries. Also, your concerns about using large quantities of the liquid form have some validity, but remember that you can keep reusing the same liquid over and over. Just store it in a large container that you can cover (to keep it from evaporating).

Nice to see a side by side as it really makes the comparison very evident to see. Thanks Keith

The smell you described like something burnt or drying was probably iron citrate. I do a lot of immersion de-rusting and it's my cleaner of choice. Mixed correctly it can keep an appropriate pH to minimise dissolution of the substrate iron. In this respect it's quite a restrained choice, and doesn't typically overshoot. Some would find that appealing.

Thanks Keith, I have not seen either of these and I need to remove the rust on a delta wood shaper table. I have used evaporust in a bucket with good success, but have no way to submerge the whole table, so I was hoping for great result with these products. I was a bit disappointed with the results also and will keep and eye out for subsequent comparisons, Thanks again!

Keep in mind that the Metal Rescue instructions say that you may need to leave it up to 24 hours, whereas the Evaporust probably stops working once it's dry.

@juanperes-jy1di

Жыл бұрын

You need to apply some more every 3-4 hours

Excellent side by side comparison and very timely for me. Thanks !!!

Thank you Keith for an truthful review on the products, regards Frank

love the idea of a side by side review

Liquid Metal Rescue does a good job. Haven't tried the EvapoRust version. Think I'll avoid the gels altogether. Thanks for all you do Keith!

Like the side by side! Please finish the job on the pulley with your previously demonstrated tub, washing soda?, battery charger technique. Maybe finish the lathe ways with recommended 24 hours of metal rescue, it looks quite promising to this Model T Ford buff.. Keep up the great work!

Thanks Keith. I just picked up a slightly rusty Gorton Mastermil and I'm looking for good options to clean it up. I'm sure this will help me.

Granted I had a small rust issue with a couple files, with some scaling, I soaked them in straight vinegar for 3 days, all rust was dissolved and had useable files once again, during that time I did give them a quick wire brushing. I believe you would benefit from placing that pully in a vinegar a few days. Best regards, Terrance

Watched this entire video before starting on a project to restore my great-grandfather's antique metal and wood tools. I'm thinking of getting Krud Cutter or Navel Jelly.

It’s my supposition that when the evaporust dries the chemical reaction slows/stops. The evaporust behaves differently in liquid form. See abomb 79 whose evaporust comes out pretty clean. Next time turn vertical and soak portions of pulley in a tub, need less evaporust. Clean up each section as it comes out. Keith please try this.

This is a very well-done video. Thank you for making it!

This was a great review. Thank you!

Hi Keith!Have you tried citric acid and wallpaper glue? I´ve had good luck with just citric acid and water, but I left the parts in for a couple of days, weak solution, but haven´t tried the glue yet.Great video as always.

Too bad electrolysis could not be used. On a previous video, the electrolysis method was used and it worked very well. Will there be a followup video on the rest of the pulley cleanup? What product(s) will you use?

I have had fairly good results with liquid EvapoRust by placing a saturated paper towel on the workpiece. EvapoRust seems to stop working when it dries out. I don't think my rust was as bad as yours. I had to put paste wax on the cleaned surface to keep it from flash rusting. I'm guessing that the Houston climate is similar to what you have.

Thanks for the honest eval.

Great video . . . Professionally executed product performance comparisons . . . Thank You

Very helpful video Keith. Thanks.

I agree that you should probably cover the Evaporust, too. Since this is chemical rust removal, the reaction is probably faster in liquid state than dry. Also I don't think that cutting off oxygen matters, as there is already plenty of oxygen in the rust (i.e. ferrous/ferric oxides) and the process is trying to get rid of this oxygen. When using paint strippers, I had great success with covering the parts as well.

Very good comparison based on manf application and clean up instructions! Metal rescue does seem to be the clear winner.

Try covering the EvapoRust with plastic wrap

@chrisstephens6673

5 жыл бұрын

a j that would be my thought too, but the instructions didn't mention it so Mr. R was right to try it without.

I have 2 bottles of EvapoRust Gel. The instructions on the small one are the same as what you read in the video, but the larger bottle has additional instructions for large objects. It says to keep the surface most by wetting paper towels with the gel, then wrapping with plastic wrap. Perhaps another attempt using those instructions is in order.

@freedog632

5 ай бұрын

Too bad the smaller one doesn't say that.

My stepson acquired a Cicinnati #3 horizontal mill. I used the liquid Evapo Rust on the vertical ways on the collum by soaking paper shop towels. I laid them on pressing them as smooth as I could. I sprayed the towels again to keep them wet. when I wiped it off I found it did an exellent Job.Sorry about the spelling. Don from Oregon

It looks like that was a good real world test of the products! I have use metal rescue liquid!

For the ways I would suggest spray fluid film on leave a week then scrub with fine scotch brite leaving the fluid film on. When it gets too rusty goo to see what you are doing flush with wd40. I did that cleaning up my tailstock and it removed the rust but the scraping marks are still visible.

I've been watching for years This is my first comment. Thank you for super job

Hi Keith, For parts that can be submerged, we use a 25% Molasses to 75% water. Actual ratio is not critical, water is used to reduce cost. Leave your pulley submerged in the Molasses solution for a month. When you remove it you will be impressed! For the ways on the lathe, I would try painting on straight Molasses on an inconspicuous trial area and leaving for a week, then wash off with a wet cloth. Molasses is very cheap and available in rural areas. Not sure of the chemical reaction with Fe203 (rust) but it works.

@steveh8724

Жыл бұрын

Molasses contains small amounts of oxalic acid and that is why it can dissolve rust.

Good comparison. When applying to the ways of the machine, I think I would leave the Metal Rescue set a lot longer, possibly a full 24 hrs. before removing. Like you, I have used the Evaporust liquid before, and the pieces turned out good, but they were smaller, and easier to submerge.

Thank you for the research

Thanks Keith.

in the past I have used a product called Navel jell . it seemed to work better than those two you just used.

I have cleaned vertical and horizontal surfaces using evaporust soaked papertowels and cling wrap. You may have to change a few times but it is passive and minimal damage.

strong solution of citric acid works very well too, and much cheaper than alot of off the shelf products.

Thanks for the effort, i have been somewhat disappointed with evaporust compared to a product "Safest Rust Remover" I have found the latter though pricey very effective.

At times Ollies in Waycross has the gallons of evaporrust for about 1/2 the price of Lowes in Tifton.

Nice comparison video. I dont have much cause for either product but I’d be miffed if I opened the tub (6:42) to find it only half full!

I think there are many "what if's" in this kind of testing (that's why there are testing labs). But this side by side raised a number of valid points, enough that in similar situations I would go with the Metal Rescue. I see a number of suggestions about various acids. I have used muriatic with good results but ... You have to watch it because when it runs out of rust to dissolve it goes after the iron next and with cast iron, it can infiltrate the pores and weaken the structure. You have to use it sparingly and neutralize thoroughly. I pick my battles carefully with any acid.

@steveh8724

Жыл бұрын

Of course, the acid doesn't really 'wait' to start on the bare metal. If there are portions of the part that are bare metal, the acid begins 'dissolving' that metal immediately. It most definitely doesn't 'wait' to affect bare metal until it 'runs out of rust to dissolve.' The rate of dissolution of bare metal is relatively slow, particular in comparison to how fast it works on iron oxide. But if you leave bare metal in (a large enough volume of a strong acid) contact long enough, it will eventually dissolve completely. But if you use a sufficiently weak acid and keep track of what's going on, you can get rid of lots of rust, while keeping damage to bare metal to an acceptable minimum.

Maybe for larger parts, but not lathe sized, you could setup some kind of a covered bin with a pump and sprayer or mister to rinse the parts in the liquid rust remover.

THANK YOU...for sharing.

The 24 hour test might have shown better results, on the pulley at least, on both items. Definitely use the cling film on both too, for a fair result.

@Rovinman

3 жыл бұрын

Don't use covering on the Evapo-rust, the instructions did not specify that.

@boots7859

3 жыл бұрын

Fair test is using as Manf states. That much rust on the pulley, anyone would leave it for a day before expecting any decent results.

Have you considered a bulk supply of pure phosphoric acid? I bought a gallon of it and use it in a spray bottle. Seems quite a bit stronger than Evaporust. I suppose you could make a pure gel phosphoric acid with polyacrylic additive if you wanted, but I just spray every so often and rust soaks it in.

A really interesting video Keith! I have no end of thoroughly rusted tools that reached me from my father and grandfather. I have often thought of trying one of these liquid rust removers on them. From your test I'd honestly say neither of the gels were all that brilliant, although I do appreciate when you mean about having little choice when its a huge chunk of steel you need cleaning up. When it comes to small parts the very best rust remover I have ever used is an ultrasonic bath--and you can get them in a variety of sizes. I would be interested to try filling a bath with one of the the liquid formulations and running the ultrasonics for a while. I'll wager that would be amazingly clean after a pretty short time. Otherwise, so far as chemicals go I recall my father always used to swear by the acid-based products. Obviously that would be a very poor choice for preservation and museum work though!!!

@johncoops6897

2 жыл бұрын

You can use liquid removers... just use a small rectangular tray, and soak a portion. then rotate the part... So, soak the first part (say 1/8 of circumference of this large pully) then remove, clean, then rotate and soak the 2nd 1/8th, etc. You cannot damage the metal, so any overlaps of treatment don't matter. You could then finish off with a gel, phosphoric acid brushed on, etc to even up the finish.

Keith, I only use white vinegar, it's not harsh and works great on rust.

The dried Evapo-Rust reminds me of Ospho

is using the electrolysis method better in removing rust?

Can you explain why you're cleaning the rust off the pulley? I think in some of the videos of the museum, there are tons of outdoor machines covered in (surface) rust. I'm wondering how it's determined when a part needs to have rust removed, vs parts which are ok to remain rusty. Thanks for the videos(:

@johncoops6897

2 жыл бұрын

Do you ever get a haircut? It certainly doesn't improve your functionality, so please explain why you bother.?

great review and very useful

Per the SDS sheet for the Evapo-Rust GEL it should be clear to yellowish. It also states that it should be kept from temperature extremes. Maybe your container was accidentally frozen in the shipping process and it turned it into a white goo that has decreased it's rust removal properties?

I tend to use Rover, distributed by Hach. Or Rust Mort, an SEM product. Both of these you need to use VOC, hand and eye protection. The Rover is definitely a professional grade rust remover. Water and industrial techs all over the country use it. Comes as a powder. Mix what you want. About $18 per container. It dissolves rust. Leaves a "clear" surface. The Rust Mort is a gel converter, about $30 a quart. Changes the rust to a black paintable "primer". Is aircraft certified, I believe. The dissolver makes material go away. The converter attempts to keep that material. Be ready to paint over the black residue though! Great vid! I just bought some Evapo-Rust, the economy 3.5 gal tub, to try out on the Canedy-Otto drill press that I'm restoring.

I'm thinking that for the aggravation, I'd try to set up electrolysis - cost - negligible comparatively. Won't work on the ways but anything else that you can get in a tub/tank... But then again we are talking undunkables so ...Pre-soak in WD-40 and prescrub???

@chrisforgan731

2 жыл бұрын

soak a sponge in the washing soda solution and hook up as normal. keep sponge wet. it works well.

Keith, love ur videos and intro music; such a peaceful way to end a busy day! As a chemistry graduate- covering with plastic makes sense to prevent evaporation of ALL liquids that can dry out in air. At 21:13 you imply it might not be good to cut off O². The converter or remover usually has phosphoric acid etc. to remove rust- which as iron oxide(Fe2O3) is RICH in oxygen! So- No O² required, for sure (unless you want to RE-rust the surface) LOL!

@danielguerrieri2023

2 жыл бұрын

Accelerating the rust is the way these work as well as vinegar.. it's the best simplest way. Please correct me if you think I am incorrect.

i like your video....i learned a few things from it! Thanks.

I think the way to do that pulley is the way you did the saw table-electrolysis.

I picked up a cider press that’s sat in the weather for years it’s not all scaled up rusty but it definitely is seized up I want to restore it. What would you do to free the parts up

There is an old product called ospho that I use on old rusty farm equipment to get it ready for paint. It turns rust into iron oxide which is paintable and inhibits further rust. I buy it from an old ace hardware store for about $25 a gallon. It may or may not be good for machined surfaces however it is great for rusty metal that your want to paint. It has a water like consistency that you paint on and let it dry, usually over night, clean it just a little and paint. It might be a good tool for your tool belt.

Thank you for the comparison video. I do believe I would have to try the evaporust with it wrapped up. Have you ever tried the cleaner made by the same company as Boeshield? The name of it slips my mind, but it was a rust remover/surface cleaner for tools that I believe is a phosphoric acid solution. I bought mine in a kit from T-9 it had the surface cleaner, blade & bit cleaner and then a can of Boeshield in it. Or, my question to you, is that a bit to harsh of a cleaner to use on a surface like machine ways?

@hankus253

5 жыл бұрын

That was also developed by the Boeing Company and called Boeshield Rust Free.

@ohhpaul7364

5 жыл бұрын

I happened to find a discussion about using phosphoric acid just an hour or two after I made the comment. apparently it converts rust into iron phosphate, and while it creates a type of barrier for rust, it turns the rust black and leaves a dark "stain" on the metal. Which does seem to be what it did to the rusty spot I used it for on my cast iron table saw.

Evapo Rust Gel was a disaster on my collectable bike! No way to remove the white chalky residue?

Nice, comparison and more realistic than just rusty bolts. :) But you should try Evaporust with cellophane to keep it moist. And let both products sit overnight - 24-48 hrs.

great video . but what is that hiss in the audio?

Seems like one or both of the directions said for heavy rust 12-24 hours, so perhaps more time would make a difference. With the Metal Rescue being wrapped in plastic seems like that might work. For surface rust like on the lathe bed ways, I find plain old elbow grease, Scotchbrite and kerosene gets the job done.

I have had better luck with Metal Rescue products in general. In my area, it is less expensive than the competing products. I am not a huge fan of gel products, but on large surfaces, they seem to be the best option. Thanks for a great comparison video keith.

We shall continue our quest for that miracle solution that replaces elbow grease. You do have much better luck with Saran Wrap than do I. It hates me.

Used 2 products years ago one was call Nutra Rust and the other was very similar was ordered in 15 gal containers during my active duty time in the army. Does anyone know if these products are available at home depot or Lowes. They seem confused.

Keith, off topic question that has me wondering. I would like to know how the spring loaded ball is installed in the end of a socket wrench. Seems like two diameters would be needed with the inside larger than the lip. Maybe the ball is just forced into the chamber? But how is the inside diameter cut larger than the edge - if that is the method?

@mattmanyam

5 жыл бұрын

This Old Tony has a vid about detents. It should answer your question.

@tomherd4179

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the lead.

Great video, thanks for sharing...What would you use to seal the cast iron after you strip it? Maybe some machine oil or is there a better way?

@TheChewy6980

4 жыл бұрын

Depending on your application, use a clear coat paint to seal the surface is a easy way

@johncoops6897

2 жыл бұрын

The traditional method is an old-time process called "painting".

@danielguerrieri2023

2 жыл бұрын

I've tried CLEAR COAT. 2-5 COATS AND. Not near the protection of spray or brush paint. And I believe Oil based paints or " epoxy " ? Type paints are better for longer protection.

@johncoops6897

2 жыл бұрын

@@danielguerrieri2023 - there is a few products called "drying oils" that can work well. Penetrol makes one, there others too. They are a very thin oil that slowly dries to a satin finish, but they will wear off and can be easily removed. I use Penetrol version on pliers and tools as I live in a humid climate and everything rusts.

@danielguerrieri2023

2 жыл бұрын

John Coops yes humidity ! In Pennsylvania mountians it is really agrssive . Drastic temp. Changes from night to day.

Would you consider using a pressure washer to clean the metal after applying the gels? I have some old ATV rims that are pretty rusty and replacements are expensive. I want to try some gel rust remover first, and thought about using my pressure washer after treating.

@johncoops6897

2 жыл бұрын

There is no advantage in using a pressure washer to rinse off, except perhaps that it potentially uses less water than a normal hose.

I would wonder what some more experimenting would make it look like. For example as mentioned by others, covering the evapo rust as well, so it will not dry out. Also for the surface plate for example, I would maybe cover it with the gel and then just loosely put some cling film on top so you don´t push out the gel and minimize evaporation. Furthermore I would go ahead and kind of bag the whole thing one more time, just to keep it as moist as possible. Last but not least, I would give it indeed up to 24 hours, as the instructions on the Metal Rescue product said, and see what difference it makes.

Great video. think I will stick to white vinegar, its cheap and effective. No use on your surface plate or lathe though.

Why not try the evapo-rust gel on a different part of the wheel and wrap it and see if it does better?

Keith I just acquired a 10" Atlas lathe on a trade; I think the lathe was built in the 1930's; it does lack the "saddle wipers" for the lathe ways. Any good ideas on getting the "parafin' wax coating from years of oil on the ways off? I have gotten suggestions of sand paper to using paint thinner. The #1 suggestion was to not use anything "abrasive". The ways are not chromed either.

@chrisforgan731

2 жыл бұрын

thinners, acetone, kerosene, wax and grease remover will all work. problem with thinners and acetone is it will attack any enamel paint finish. kero and wax and grease wont. note the other name for kero is parafin.

@andrewkoetz3933

2 жыл бұрын

@@chrisforgan731 I am thinking on using a kiddie pool & electralosis for my bed and larger pieces that I have currently in a tub of evaporust in the basement. I just need to time to get them cleaned up between wrking overtime on the weekends.

@andrewkoetz3933

2 жыл бұрын

@@chrisforgan731 I am stripping everything down anyway; the paint needs a fresh coat of IMHO "Machinery Gray". My Atlas lathe has a coat of gray on it that seems like it has a slight tint of blue added to it.

How do these products work on painted surfaces?

This was GREAT! Thanks!

I recently tried the Metal Rescue liquid concentrate on some cast iron and I thought it worked better than Evaporust. I also am switching over to Metal Rescue because the nearest auto parts store to me stocks it.

@mattgardeski7369

5 жыл бұрын

One of the parts before and after: images.mjgard.es/upload/2018/08/02/20180802222012-b7e782a4.jpg

@johncoops6897

2 жыл бұрын

@@mattgardeski7369 - LOL, the original is almost 100% not rusted. You could literally wipe that off with a bit of light acid, vinegar, etc. You painted over all the working surfaces, so there is no way of assessing the "after" result. You could have achieved the same result by simply painting over the original flash rust.

@mattgardeski7369

2 жыл бұрын

@@johncoops6897 No paint, just a little oil. :)

@johncoops6897

2 жыл бұрын

@@mattgardeski7369 - then you need to remove the (black) Chelated Iron residue off the working surfaces first.

It seems to me as the both of them left a lot of work to scotchbrite, and with so much work as u have for this, I would have got a scotchbrite wheel that is suitable for an angle grinder. Is this a good idea?

@jusb1066

5 жыл бұрын

no, a powered scotchbrite takes off metal, no good for the lathe,

@VintageMachinery

5 жыл бұрын

Scothbrite is abrasive - particularly when you put it under power!

I wonder if you covered the Evaporust it would come off more easily?

what if you mix some of liquid evaporust with gel evapo rust and cover it with plastic?

If the liquid stuff is the way to go, you might try to find 1/2" diameter glass beads or 1/2" diameter high polished stones (what is cheaper and that would not float) and put the wheel inside a container and fill all the voids with the inert material, and then fill with the active liquid. I would assume evaporust will have a very low interaction with the filler material. The container should have a way to remove the evaporust through a hole in the bottom and there will be a mess cleaning the inert material, that I assume could be reused. This will not work for the lathe though :-)

Metal rescue seems to be the winner but what if left for long will it eat up the good iron? Evapo rust (the ordinary one) is safe to use regarding leaving it for long periods of time. For a cost perspective and safety (for the metal) would electrolysis be a better choice if one could submerge the part (or most of it anyway). I wonder if Evapo rust mixed with wallpaper adhesive would work. I have heard citric acid and wallpaper adhesive will work. Best regards.

@jrkorman

5 жыл бұрын

The Metal Rescue appears to use the same process as Evapo-rust; Reading from the web site.

agitation and heat help with the liquid evaporust.

@melgross

3 жыл бұрын

On small parts I use it in a heated ultrasonic. You can see the rust pouring off.

Is there something wrong with using good old fashion Ospho?

I've recently been using phosphoric acid, which is sold commonly as limescale remove / descaler. It's cheap and readily available at hardware stores in the UK. Have you ever heard of or used anything similar?

@Steve_Just_Steve

5 жыл бұрын

acids work great I use diluted muratic if you can keep it from flash rusting after.

@VintageMachinery

5 жыл бұрын

Acids will do the job, but there is a certain amount of danger to working with them. Proper disposal of the solution after use can also be an issue for the average home shop guy - you don't want to just dump that stuff out on the ground....

@Steve_Just_Steve

5 жыл бұрын

Keith- I don't see the harm in dumping on ground, down the drain or almost anywhere as long as your sure you've diluted and neutralized it first. Regular ol' baking soda or I use pool PH increaser.

Have you ever tried citric acid? I've seen that used by other tubers for large parts. Seems effective. Not fast, as it can take a few days, but very economical.

I have had great luck with both products when I leave them on for more than 24hrs.

Evapo-rust (noun): a substance that evaporates and dries when applied to rust. :-P

Cleaning steel is a very common industrial operation. This is most often done with an HCl based hot pickling solution. The retail products that you've tested are too mild to do the job, the reason being that product liability law advises strongly not to make highly aggressive chemicals available retail to the public. So the companies making these too mild products just take advantage of one time buyers, as few will bother to buy them again. That big rusty pulley would come out of a 180 F deg picking bath very clean, but such a bath would have to be attended by chemical and safety experts. Keep well.......................thanks................

I left a pipe wrench in Evapo-rust and forgot it. Mean while 3 weeks latter, I removed the wrench from the tank and washed it off in the sink. No rust scale and it was black and slimy. I then painted the handle red and wire brushed the jaws. It could easily pass for brand new.

Kieth, thank you. This was very interesting information. God Bless

Have you ever used old fashioned naval jelly to remove rust?

Reality versus expectation, the result left something to be desired. Sandblasting is still the best option.

Keith. It is great to have a side by side comparison BUT ................... You know there will be a butt (but) out there somewhere. One thing I will say though is a reminder to be extremely careful using different chemicals (ie: chlorine and ammonia) where there is the possibility of cross contamination. It appears that you used the same scrub pad on the pulley to clean of both rust removers. Stay safe Keith.

Why not use walnut shelled for sandblast. easy to clean then differ kind paint.

I bought evaporust for my fridge front where down time allowed all ice inside to defrost and got rust to start in a rash of a few areas and I can't see myself wrapping plastic wrap on a vertical door! I was expecting it to remove rust like paint remover peals back the paint in curds

Get in contact with someone who does laser rust removal. The laser machines are super expensive but it would interesting to see how it would do on these old cast iron parts.

@VintageMachinery

5 жыл бұрын

I have seen this done on video, but never in person. I live in a very rural area and I would think it would be very unlikely that I could find somebody offering this service near me.

@justinl.3587

5 жыл бұрын

Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org I would have to agree with you that it’s unlikely that someone close by has such an operation. Possibly throw it out there in a video to have someone with a machine demo it for you on your channel in a video.

You can use your liquid product by putting the pulley into a tank ( like a cut down 50 gallon drum), then use about 1-2 gallons liquid and then pour in clean gravel to take up the excess space- this will raise the level up to cover the part and still give you full contact on the part.

@xenonram

5 жыл бұрын

OLD SCHOOL It's expensive. Gravel (Depending on what type.) will suck up a bunch of the liquid. So you'll waste a lot. Something non porous would be better.

@oldschool1993

5 жыл бұрын

Gravel is not porous- it just displaces the empty space- after done, you can drain off and reclaim the product.

@DSCKy

5 жыл бұрын

Marbles... :)

@timothybarney7257

5 жыл бұрын

Marbles, being glass, should be somewhat to pretty inert and not react with the chemicals.

@marklatham5692

5 жыл бұрын

What a great idea! I've got some pulleys and some lathe chucks to try it out on!

You didn't try a plastic electrolysis tank with a battery charger? Should work well on the pulley, but not the machine.

@VintageMachinery

5 жыл бұрын

The purpose of this video was to try the product on a tough job. The pulley turned out to be a tough job....

@ElectraFlarefire

5 жыл бұрын

Plus find a tank big enough for the Monarc(sp).. :) That seemed closer to the ideal situation, cleaning up rust on something too big to move or that you don't want to dismantle.

@jusb1066

5 жыл бұрын

lathe sized one might be a challenge! he did do a large table a few years back at the museum, it worked pretty well, but took 3-4 days

@thephotographicauditor6715

5 жыл бұрын

Electra Flarefire There's a farm supply store near his local airport, so I'm sure large plastic tanks are available. Yes, some disassembly would be required.

@richardlathrop61

5 жыл бұрын

Just make a temp tank using plastic sheeting . There are videos on KZread about it.

How do these chemicals compare to electrolysis?