I have been a Fuji shooter for more than 5 years now and this is the first time someone is explaining this to me in a clear and concise way. Thank you.

Me, clicking on this video: Probably nothing to see here Me, after watching: My entire life has been a lie

@jjdr9645

3 жыл бұрын

very true

I bought many paid tutorials of Fujifilm, NO ONE explained how Dynamic Range works! Finally learnt form GOOD Teacher. @Pal2tech I enjoy all of you R&D video about Fujifilm!!! THANK YOU !

@MiraRK69

2 ай бұрын

You bought PAID tutorials? I do not want to disappoint you, but bro, you was scammed. :(

I definitely turned DR 400% on after seeing the results. What I really like about this feature (at least in the firmware I have), it doesn't limit your ISO when you have 400% DR enabled, but instead will put an icon on screen to let you know that you're only getting 100% or 200%, so that way I can shoot below 640 if I need too without digging through the menus to disable it and missing the shot.

@oscarabello84

Жыл бұрын

Dont affect Raw?

By a clear mile, you’re my favorite Fujifilm related channel. Thanks for the amazing tips and videos.

@pal2tech

3 жыл бұрын

Wow, thanks!

@equisetuminc

3 жыл бұрын

Same here. I come from an engineering background and like when the information is clear, concise, and - entertaining. Thanks pal2tech

@SamBorgman

2 жыл бұрын

@@equisetuminc Tell me something. Have you been overwhelmed by the menu of Fuji camera? I've never had problem figuring out an electronic device before this and it's been upsetting lol. If as an engineer you've struggled too, it would make me feel better about it lol I bought my XT4 like 2 weeks ago and I'm still figuring out the settings. I see endless opportunities where the menus could've been made much clearer. How is DR 100% and 200% just 1 stop apart. You'd think it doubles the range. That's just one example.

Finally someone explains this clearly! Thank you!

I have been shooting Fuji for 3 years and really never understood this until now. Thank you as always!!!

Great video. Dynamic Range is a strange beast. If the Fuji is truly ISO invariant (as we're told it is) then you can replicate DR400 in bright scenes by simply shooting with a quarter normal exposure and then boosting the non-highlight areas by up to four times back on your home computer. Not that you'd want to, as it's an editing hassle. If you take your Fuji and increase DR from 100 to 400 when you'd normally shoot at ISO125, it will indeed protect the highlights but also add a tiny bit of (ISO500 minimum) fuzz into the picture. The DR 400 will literally have reduced the light on your sensor down to a quarter, which is quite spooky when you think about it. (For example, a 500th/second F2.0 ISO125 shot at DR 100 becomes a 125th/second F2.0 ISO500 shot at DR 400). But, as long as you don't mind that tiny ISO500 fuzz, you've saved your highlights. If you take your Fuji and increase DR from 100 to 400 in a gloomy scene where you'd be at ISO500+ anyway, your DR100 and DR400 shots will be the same. It's an artistic etc decision whether you actually like blown-out areas in a photo and whether you care about accessing the best light quality (and least ISO fuzz) possible. For me, although I hate giving up on finest ISO125 picture quality, I'm happy to pay the tax always of being at ISO500+ for the comfort of knowing two stops worth of highlights are protected. So I'm on DR400 for my street snapping and anywhere that risks blown-out highlights. And knowing that, in gloomier light (where I'd be at ISO500+ anyway), I've lost nothing anyway compared to DR100. The above is based on my tests and research, but this is a slippery topic and I might find reasons to change. (As an aside, DR400 can be impossible with mechanical shutter on bright says as it'll be too bright to run ISO500 on normal shutter speeds).

since i got an x e4 this channel has been my bible to understand (i'm coming from 135 film). this man's doing god's work

The marshmallow-highlight-LR transformation was smooth! Nice one! @02:00

Wow, mind blowing. Thanks so much for the detailed explanation! I have never understood the raw file effects and I've shot at DR 100% for the past 6 years. I am just now realizing for almost all my applications, I should have been using DR 200 or 400. Fuji's xtrans filter does such a good job with noise that for almost everything except still landscapes, the noise tradeoff is negligible. This video should be a must see for any fujifilm owner

@bh9262

2 жыл бұрын

Me too!

@Wuschti

Жыл бұрын

Haha me too, I always thought it only affects JPEGs and also that DR100% means already more DR than "off". Thank you @pal2tech I've learned a lot today.

Thanks for showing this off. What's also fun is to compare a properly exposed raw image with DR400 at ISO 640 to an image underexposed by two stops at ISO 160. If you take the ISO 160 and raise the exposure by two stops, you get the same image as the DR 400. And if you lower the exposure of the DR 400 by two stops you get the ISO 160 image. That's because that's how DR works. It underexposes the image (to protect those highlights) and then saves that raw file with metadata that tells editing tools to boost the base exposure by two stops. At least that was my experience when I used programming libraries to read and demosaic fuji files (thanks dcraw) with the DR setting.

I don't think anyone else will explain the HDR on Fujifilm with this deep details, great job.

How the hell can people dislike this video? So incredibly useful. And I really loved how you physically demonstrated the histogram highs and lows. Laugh out loud funny.

Excited about the F-log video 😍

@edbertcadavero14

3 жыл бұрын

Use only for daytime. Do not use on nigh time. Use HLG instead.

@nehaanil2189

3 жыл бұрын

@@edbertcadavero14 Is flog really that bad at night? I bought the XT3 for making shorts, but with the corona it has delayed my projects. My concern with using Flog during the day and HLG during the night scenes, is matching them perfectly in post. What are your thoughts?

@edbertcadavero14

3 жыл бұрын

@@nehaanil2189 on FLOG some noises can be seen on the dark area when you start grading your footages unless you have a good lights but better avoid FLOG at night. if you value your time.

I immediately thought of the uses when shooting in snow. I shoot deer often in a snowy backdrop in the winter and this sounds like a great benefit to keep from blowing out the snow details while still exposing for the deer (which I error towards in my exposures). Thanks for the tip. This was really helpful!

I love the effort you put into your videos. Much appreciated. Thank you.

when I see your videos, beyond the very interesting contents, I notice how every little thing starting from the body language is effective to create interest and grow the channel. an impressive job.

Thank you our Fuji King 🤩 always learning something new love it!

Seriously, what a great explanation. Keep up the good work!

Oh, Chris, you always manage to find something new to teach me about the fujifilm system! I never understood the DR options. Thank you for this fantastically informative video!

@pal2tech Awesome video as always! The growth in your channel is well deserved. Keep creating! Also, LOVED the intro and how you tied it in later - very creative

I love the excitement! It’s contagious 🤘🏻

You provide the most useful Fujifilm info on KZread. Thank you!

another eye-opener from pal2tech. Thanks for providing sound knowledge in an entertaining yet straightforward way.

Loving your videos. You explain things so well. Particularly on settings that are rarely used and for me generally poorly understood. Thank you.

WOW! Thank you so much for sharing this important info in regards to the dynamic range setting. That is a massive difference in terms of recovering the highlights. I had this setting off on my XT2 for the longest time because I didn't how it worked. I will definitely turn it on moving forward. 🙏 👍🏼

Amazing mate, honestly I struggle so bad with this and have read , watched so much over the years and finally, finally you explain it bang on in 4 mins 😄. Top work , keep it up

Amazing! This was such a valuable video. I will surely add this to my arsenal... Thanks Chris!

Your videos just keep getting better and better. Always so informative and presented in an easy and professional manner.

I love your detailed and simplified technical explanation. No other video have been so explicit and easy to understand like your videos. Thank you very much for making it look so easy.

I’ve been a Fujifilm shooter since 2014 and have watched a lot of fujifilm videos but I’ve only recently discovered your channel. You are the first to explain this function well and I’ve been impressed with your other videos as well. Keep up the great work!

AMAZING explanation Chris! I always use 200% like a sweet middle spot

As always, fantastic and very informative. Thanks.

@pal2tech

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Brian!!!!

Incredibly well explained, and wow! impressive results!

Thank you so much for explaining g this so clearly! Just what I was looking for. Thank you so much for all the videos you produce. They help so much!

Great videos! I have a photo editing channel but want to get out from behind the desk and into the field. I've spent the day consuming and absorbing your xt4 movie mode videos. Thanks so much for the great info. I'm a novice when it comes to cutting etc. but I know enough to appreciate the amount of work you're putting in to creating these videos! Thank you 🙏

Thank you for such a clear presentation. The more I listen to you the more I learn and appreciate going out and photographing

This is an excellent video and really shows the strength of this sensor. I've been using this to get amazing dynamic range in 8 bit with my Fuji XT30, without having to use F-Log. I'm a Mechanical engineering student with an interest in signal processing, I can dive into more technical details here. I'm mainly a video guy so I'll have more relevant info there. Fuji's modern sensors are what is called ISO invariant (as most people know). That includes the Xt2 and XT3 and all the cameras in between. So basically they do not "add" noise from raising the ISO, they amplify the existing ANALOG signal (up to a certain point). All sensors create noise, even at base ISO. Just at that level it is so far below the shadows as it's not amplified. So shooting at ISO 160 and raising it to 800 is the same as shooting at ISO 800. The sensor doesn't have any "read noise", or extra noise resulting from the signal boost. Now, on to ISO and middle grey. ISO in these cameras in RAW works differently than in video mode. For RAW, all the image data captured by the sensor is preserved. This means no compression. The way ISO works is it changes where middle grey is placed. For ISO 160, let's say out Fuji cameras get 14 stops of dynamic range. It places middle grey close to the 80 IRE point. This means you have about 10-12 stops of area BELOW that, and maybe 2 stops above. That's why you expose for the highlights and lift shadows in post, as long as you don't clip them you can recover them with a slight noise penalty. If you have a shitton of highlights and very bright areas, it is worth going to DR400 and exposing for the highlights there. You will incur a noise penalty in the shadows but that shouldn't matter given bright daylight as you'll wanna preserve more bright information. I've tested this on a monitor with a waveform output, switching between DR100, 200 and 400. DR100 will clip highlights well before the 100 IRE mark as it's running out of "highlight room". To reduce noise in stills, you want to keep a very similar exposure to ISO 160 settings even shooting at 640, you have more highlight headroom so you won't clip as easily. I'd say go 2/3rds of a stop darker just to be safe. Also, Dynamic Range Priority is an even stronger version of DR400, I've found it to be even more low contrast. Now for video, the way H.264/H.265 codecs work is they weight the scene. Luminance is weighted accordingly, so pixels close to 0 IRE are compressed and blobbed together. And they are weighted more the higher they get in IRE, until about 85 IRE. And then 85-100 IRE they are also blobbed together. See where the issue is here with ISO 160? The ISO 160 places SO much information below middle grey that gets compressed to HELL in the codec. And its also scene dependent. If you for example have a night scene, lets say indoors. The best way to get a clean image is to ADD light and keep ISO low, close to 160 if you can. Otherwise, if you have to raise it, go to atleast 2000 on the XT3 (not sure about XT2 and the like). The reason ISO 800 (XT2) or 640 (XT3) is native ISO in F-log and DR400 is that it places middle grey differently, it's placed much lower in the overall gamma curve. SO you have WAY more headroom in highlights and the shadows are flattened. That's why you also overexpose, to fit as much info into the higher areas of log footage where it can hold more. In video, it's hard to "recover" info as they are compressed heavily. For instance, an uncompressed RAW frame from the camera at full res is 58MB. Imagine 58MB for every single frame. That's an insane amount of data. That's why the log curve fits a very flat looking image into the scene and gets a lot of highlight and shadow information, without having to "recover" as it's not feasible with compressed, non-RAW codecs. I've been using DR400 in video as I find that the luminance dynamic range is basically exactly the same in Eterna DR400 compared to F-log, it just uses a Rec709 color space with a higher max luminance value, whereas switching to F-log takes the camera into a Rec2020 color space which is wider but using that with 8 bit will cause banding. FOr me, DR400 is the perfect compromise. On the XT3, HLG is similar, but instead base ISO is 1000. This is even better for places with tons of bright areas as again you have more headroom above middle grey. But you'll again be taking a noise penalty in the black areas. On to dual native ISO, can't comment on the XT2 but the XT30 and 3 (anything with the 26MP sensor) is pretty much dual native ISO. Meaning that the camera switches amplification circuits given certain conditions and ISO. Expose to the right to make good use of the sensors capability to capture a wide DR. Note: Noise reduction in camera I turn to -4, it stops the low light shots from looking like a smeary mess and the noise is pretty organic. which is easy to denoise if needed. I mainly do video so for F-Log, if you're in low light and need more exposure, go to ISO 2000 or higher. The camera supposedly switches to the high gain circuit at 2000 which cleans the image up a bit and looks really good. For stills it's apparently switching at ISO 800 for low light but I cannot confirm that as I don't do enough stills. I've done a few at 6400 and 1/8th of a second f3.5 which were good enough for me I've tested F-Log indoors at f11, 1/48th of a second, ISO 10000 and it was still a really clean image except for the black areas. Shows how much of a help a BSI sensor can be.

@Callmedstone

2 жыл бұрын

Very infromative reply. I've been on the fence about these cameras (for video) as a lot of the footage I've seen from them is missing something I can't quite put my finger on. As an aside: how far away are we from being to take an Arduino approach to building our own HDMI capture devices with FPGAs (like the Atomos and BMD units) without having to learn that awful concurrency sh*t?

Thank you so much- you do all the hard work for us and then disseminate it in the easiest, and with the smores, the most tasty ways possible.

Thank you so much for taking the time to put this together, clearly and we'll explained.

@pal2tech

3 жыл бұрын

You bet!

Thank you for this, purchased a Fuji xt4 and you have made it easy to learn the camera’s system of operation.

Thanks so much for the video. I've herd about Dynamic Range but I never looked into it until now. You explained it very well. Cheers !

Thank you for that! As always, your explanations are easy to follow and it's really nice to be able to watch videos that explain everything from start to finish. On to the video about F-Log!

Chris, I have found that coming back to your videos and rewatching them a I get more comfortable with the menu choices on my camera has been a great way to complete my setting options. I first watched this while setting up my X-T3 last year. It was a a bit over my head at the time. Now, as I am getting deeper into setting up my X-T5, I am almost ready to give the Q menu a go, I am taking another look at ISO and Dynamic Range. Now this video is really helpful. Thanks, Al

I've been so confused trying to figure this out but you explained it so well. Thanks!

Every shot is really at ISO 160, but when setting ISO 640 and DR 400%, you only change the indicated ISO in the raw metadata to 640. This means the shot is underexposed 2 EV to keep the highlights, the black and shadows get pushed up 2 EV in the cameras raw converter because of the DR400. This is actually done post exposure. ISO exposure in camera (developer push/pull or ISO) is better known as brightness, and is literally no different than changing exposure slider in LR after the fact. Reason why you see this difference in LR in your example and think it is baked in to RAW is because of the raw metadata. If you compare the RAW files in application such as RAW digger, you will find that the RAW data (real exposure) is the same, except for RAW metadata. Capture One disregard DR and will show a DR400 file as underexposed as it really happens in camera.

@phlo314

11 ай бұрын

Exactly! This was my conclusion as well! The video is wrong when it claims that any kind of separate processing of highlights and shadows happens before analog to digital conversion. While doing things that way might be theoretically possible, in practice it would require DR processing to be integrated into the sensor. The reason that the camera insists in you setting a higher ISO to enable DR is simply that underexposing and then digitally recovering the shows increases noise levels in the darker part of the image. The increase in noise (approximately) matches the increased noise that the higher ISO would show if the camera actually set the sensor to the selected ISO level instead of two stops below that. So by forcing you to select a higher ISO, the camera simply informs you about the increased noise.

@jesselam5867

11 ай бұрын

​@@phlo314 I had similar thoughts, having different iso levels on a pixel level doesn’t sound right. As far as i’m aware increasing iso just increases the voltage supplied to the entire sensor hence increasing the sensitivity/iso, not on a pixel level. If this was the case it is a BIG deal and we should always turn it on because it means we can have optimal iso value across the entire image, increasing dynamic range and lowering noise. Fujifilm would have marketed this feature more, not keep it as a hidden setting.

@StepanVoronkov

9 ай бұрын

Exactly, 6:17 is a wrong statement.

@1825OREO

8 ай бұрын

What would the best iOS to shoot?

@phlo314

8 ай бұрын

@@1825OREO There no "universally" best ISO, it's always a compromise between noise (lower at low ISO) and motion blur (higher at low ISO because shutter speeds are slower)

I don't know if I am more impressed with the great explanation of DR or that smores were used to explain it.

Yes!! Please do a video dynamic range demo. This lesson was very helpful. Thank you! Love the channel.

Again a great and very helpful tutorial! Thank you very much for your work!!!

this video made my jaw drop! Thank you for finally helping explain this. Love your channel so much.

@pal2tech

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much Ian!! 🙏🙏

Outstanding explanation and demonstration. It is a good discovering, it affects so deeply to raw files as well. Thanks for your great content!!

You have a true gift for explaining complex issues. Something I like about your approach is that you don't dumb-down the complex bits to the point of making them unintelligible. Great job!

I learn a lot with you. Your explanations are so clear! Thank you so much!

Thanks for all your videos. You've helped me understand my camera so much better. You're the best!

Great information, thanks! Never really understood what the dynamic range settings were doing in the camera. This helps a lot!

Very emotional and comprehensive explanation. Thank you!

Great video. That function has always been one I've tended to overlook/ignore. Love what you did with the snack ingredients too: perfect! 🙂👏

Thank you for these amazingly informative videos! Very generous of you! And you know how to keep it interesting. 😎⭐️

Your videos are insanely easy to understand. Very well explained and delivered

Great video, Chris! Really helpful to know exactly what's going on with the DR setting. This builds nicely on your previous video about how ISO is implemented by analog amplification. You are the best I've seen at explaining these kind of technical details. BTW, I just updated my profile pic, so I've aged about 20 years. 🙂

Another well explained piece of Fuji x advice from the man who knows , nice one Brian were would we be without your endless Fuji knowledge 👊👍

Que grande!! Gracias por el video. Estaba buscando info acerca de éste tema. De nuevo. Muchas gracias desde Argentina saludos!

Great video! Great explanation! I am an experienced digital photographer, and I have never really understood what the DR setting really does. So I have always vacillated between Auto and Off. Now I know when/how I want to set up my Fuji's. This video might well be my all-time favorite!

Thank you so much for this! I shoot a lot of landscapes and this just changed the game

Your production finesse is commendable. Educative and fun to watch.

Felicitaciones! Saludos desde Colombia! No me pierdo un solo capítulo, tremendo canal y tremenda información la que brindas!

Brilliant!! Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou, you are my guiding STAR! And I’m just loving my XT3 journey. Take care and stay safe, you are helping me get through this lockdown 🤓

Incredibly well explained!! Thanks!

What a great video, thank you! I recently shot a video in f-log for the first time and could not understand why an ISO wouldn't go below 640. This video solved the issue and helped to understand the dynamic range function.

This tool will help me out during the summer mid day while photographing pure white snowy egrets.

Great explanation. Officialy earned a sub: ) thank you so much for this.

Excellent video. This is the best and most detailed explanation of dr setting I have seen.

No wonder why all my highlights are blown away even with the RAW - now I know !!! Thank you Thank you Thank you so so so much.

Dude ! Love you’re videos - thanks for great informative and fun content

Thank you for all your videos...I am subscribed and watch all the older and of course the newer videos. Thanks for being a Fujigenius, your videos have helped me immensely!!!

@pal2tech

3 жыл бұрын

Awesome, thank you! 🙏 🙏 🙏 That means a lot to me Bobby!!!

This is the best explanation I've ever seen. Thank you very much 🙏

A great video again, thank you. Now I understood the dynamic settings in my Fujifilm X-T4.

What a complicated way of having some marshmallow chocolate and cookies! Thx again!

Great explanation! I appreciate the time and quality you put into these videos.

Finally I understand this feature. Good to know it works on raw files as well!

Very helpful video and great comparison images to demonstrate the difference! Thanks!

As a Fujifilm user, I really love your videos. From your lens reviews to camera tech talks, your videos are very knowledgeable and helpful to me. Many thanks.

Excellent and informative video. Thank you for putting the comparison together!

Wow. That was a very important video for me. Switzerland is a “winter” country. Winter = snow = need of highlight protection to see the structure of the snow in landscape photos. That cases problem. I hope so that DR 400% at ISO 640 will help me a lot. I gonna try it during the weekend. :)

@WOLFTICKVIDEOS

3 жыл бұрын

Will you please comeback and give us your experiences? I'm very curious how this will perform in shots with something like snow which will be in the majority of the frame. Thanks in advance - John

@hassannassif9464

3 жыл бұрын

I have the same problem as I live in Canada.

@Theo5555

3 жыл бұрын

Simply lower the highlights in your menu 1-2 points. This gives you better results than via DR 200 and certainly DR 400, because you can keep your ISO setting at the lowest setting. highlights cannot recover once they are burned out. Shadows can be brought back reasonably well if your ISO remains low, or your shadows would be so black that there is no more information in it.

@pixelgenau2982

3 жыл бұрын

I‘d rather stay at the lowest ISO (100 % DR) and shoot with exposure bracketing. Merge the images in Photoshop and you get a very wide dynamic range. I try to avoid noise as possible. Higher ISO means more noise. Btw, I live in Switzerland too and shot several winter landscape images recently as well 😉

@hand-heldblender8107

3 жыл бұрын

@@WOLFTICKVIDEOS currently, I am in the field with the gears. I will come back with my experience and I will share it.

This is a very very well explained video. I always thought that it only affected the JPEG files. Thank you so much for all your energy in making this excellent video! Lot’s of greetings, Dennis 🇳🇱

That was an incredibly helpful video. Thank you!

Its such a pleasure to learn from your videos, greetings from Spain!

Thank you! I always wondered how exactly the fujifilm DR settings work. super useful!

Really super video! Such a simple and important concept you explained! Thank you very much!!

Just found your channel and I just switched with Fujifilm Camera. And your contents are helping me 🙏🏻

Another great video and very well explained, thank you so very much 👍🏼

Wow! never cared about the DR setting since I always shoot in RAW... This was an eye opener, you are great! Thanks!!!

Finally a great explanation on this matter! Thanks!!

@pal2tech

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much Juan!!!! 🙏

This should be required viewing for every Fuji X shooter. Very well explained, many thank's.

Just discovered this option on my camera! thanks for explaining what it does, can't wait to try it!

this video has been a great help, thank you. Cheers from British Columbia

Great video. Finally! Someone who breaks that myth that DR didn’t affect the raw files. Thank you!

Thank you. Great video and so helpful a tutorial. Cheers, Bob.

Because of you i boot a fuji xt4 my first camera .Thank you for your videos.