Fridge Not Defrosting? Defrost Heater Testing, Repair
Refrigerator not defrosting? Freezing food? This video provides information on how to test a defrost heater on a refrigerator. The defrost heater is a commonly replaced part on a fridge that isn’t cooling properly.
Other commonly replaced parts when the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm are:
Defrost thermostat
Evaporator fan motor
Damper control assembly
Thermistor
Temperature control board
Main control board
Click here to purchase a replacement refrigerator defrost heater:
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How to disassemble your refrigerator:
• Refrigerator Disassemb...
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All of the information provided in this part testing video is applicable to the following brands:
Amana, Frigidaire, GE, Kenmore, KitchenAid, LG, Maytag, Samsung, Whirlpool
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Пікірлер: 85
Freezer was freezing up. Watched your video, tested the element and it was bad. Replaced it, fridge works great again. Thanks!
Ashley, This is not a typical a defrost limit thermostat. This item is a high limit thermostat which is normally closed at room temperature. It shuts of the heater if the board relay fails closed to prevent damage. The defrost system is operated by the board which uses the thermistor to monitor the frost build up on the evaporator. If the defrost heating element has continuity probably between 5-50 ohms than the board is likely defective.
@cacferguson
9 жыл бұрын
***** My coils were completely frosted over when I tested the thermostat and thermistor on the board. Wouldn't they have shown continuity if they were still frozen?
@repairclinic
9 жыл бұрын
Ashley Ferguson The thermostat should have zero resistance when below 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The thermistor should have a specific resistance when cold and change with temperature. It is unlikely both failed like that and have no continuity so you may want to double check your wiring, meter, and it's settings.
I have leaking door seals. Lately been putting a heavy 12 pack of soda against fridge door to keep it tight. The freezer door seal is also not sealing all the time and leaking. I try to keep it pushed tight but it leaks some. I get a lot of frost around the freezer door . About 3 years ago I replaced the defrost thermostat on this old Maytag which had a three wire stat with a two wire stat. Just disconnected and sealed the extra wire connection. Replaced the timer and all seemed to work okay until lately. Ice is forming around the drain hole and a solid sheet of ice forms on the length of the aluminum tray that sits over the drain hole, and also a thick ice layer forms over the drain hole. After taking the rear freezer panel off and complete manual defrost and clearing the drain hole of all ice, I turned the timer to defrost mode while I had the stat still wired and in a glass of ice water. Then plugged in fridge and the heater came on. It did not glow red or get really hot but was putting out a constant heat wave. I was wondering if the heater could be going bad but still working and not getting hot enough to fully defrost with ice accumulating over time. With the stat in ice water and not heating up and opening the circuit to cut off the heater I figured the heater should have kept heating until it was red hot. I also thought maybe with the bad door seals that warm air is getting in so much that it forms around the drain hole so thick that the heater does not melt it all and it continues to build up over time. Lately it was also icing up around the freezer fan and not enough cold air getting down to the freezer. The timer seems to be ok and the thermostat worked and the heater worked, although I don't know how hot it is suppose to get. I can hold my hand on the evaporator coils feeling the heat but not enough to burn my hand. Maybe I need to get a timer that cycles to defrost mode more often? Any suggestions?
I have a Frigidaire side by side refrigerator/freezer model FRS26R4CW3. I have the heater cover off inside the freezer but cannot determine where to find the SWITCH to turn the defrost cycle on to begin testing the heater, thermostat and timer components. Please help me identify where it is. Your videos are very good. Thank you so much for taking the time to educate and help people in this way. I appreciate any help you can give me.
I'm getting a reading of 113 ohms on my digital meter. Is that high enough to be considered bad?
My heater element Ohmed out at 185.6. Is it bad? It’s a kenmore side by side with the freezer drawer and Ice maker at the left door away from the freezer. The element failed the beep test as well.
I’m having an issue. I ordered parts from you guys I replaced the heater, thermostat and timer just to be safe. My Frigidaire freezer defrost heater is STILL not coming on. I put it in defrost mode manually and it doesn’t turn orange or get hot. Any recommendations? The model number is FRT21IS6JW1..
what if the number when set on the lowest oms keeps going up and down like up to 190 back down through the 70s 60s 50s to 1 them back up....? When I do the sound setting it beeps the whole time and stays around 34-35
I replaced the defrost heater in my GE fridge which was obviously bad. Also ordered defrost thermostat and thermistor. Checked thermostat and thermistor for continuity through main board, but neither one had continuity. I am going to replace both. Is it possible that all of these components failed, or is it more likely that I have a bad heater (replaced now) and a bad main board, which would be why these are not showing continuity when tested?
Hello, the heater gives me about 90 Ohms of resistance and it doesn't give continuity. BUT if I plug it directly ... it gets hot, it works! What's going on? Is it bad? Do i have to replace it?
Replaced defrost heater and defrost thermostat. Coils still frosting over. What should I replace to correct issue?
Great video. Thank you for sharing your ideas.
Ashley, we would suspect the main control board is defective and will need replacement. www.repairclinic.com?TLSID=1773
Sir very nice video Hi how are you..sir my refrigerator not automatic off I did change timer and biometal..but not automatic off..what problem sir guide me I'm very upset about refrigerator
Excellent video. The service tech said we needed a "defrost kit". Total cost would have been $418 - more than the fridge is worth. I decided to do a little internet homework. Thermostat works, fan works, and defrost heating element has continuity. Seeing now that the return vents in my fridge are clogged with ice, I suspect that one I get everything cleared out, it will go back to working. Thanks for the concise, simple explanation.
@michaelgerowjr.1299
Жыл бұрын
Yhy😮😮
@michaelgerowjr.1299
Жыл бұрын
😮😅😅😅
@michaelgerowjr.1299
Жыл бұрын
😢
I have a Frigidaire model FA13DSBAWA that is not defrosting,heater element is good but the thermostat is like a fan capacitor with 4 wires.i have not being able to find that part any ware because the searches tell me to check my model number again and thats the model number on the back label I have.
Hello, We have an Ariston hotpoint SDS 1721 V/HA fridge that makes too much ice on the back panel. We've changed the thermostat, but there's always too much ice. Could you tell us what kind of problem there could be, and where is the defrost heater on that kind of model. It could also be a command card problem... Thanks in advance for your answer (We're writing you from France).
How do you test the evaporater fan on a Frigidare upright refrigerator? The fan isn't working
The heater should show continuity. If it shows an open circuit it is bad. If the heater and the defrost thermostat both show good the defrost timer or defrost control board (depending on your model) may be bad.
I advanced the timer to get the defrost cycle. the heating element did quickly melt a piece of ice I put on it, but did not get red hot, and after about 6 minutes, I checked the heating element and it was not hot. The defrost cycle lasted about 22 minutes. How long is the heating element supposed to stay hot, and if I put a meter on the ends, what reading should I get. Is it possible that the heating element though working some it might be going bad? Or could it be affected by a going bad timer?
@repairclinic
9 жыл бұрын
robert arrubla If the evaporator warms up enough the defrost thermostat will open and stop the defrost heater from heating. Click here for more info: kzread.info/dash/bejne/Z6p1mq2sppjRhrw.html
Sorry we couldn't get it up and running for you! It definitely could be a bad wire or something not hooked up properly.
Gracias
I'm not getting the continuity beep on that setting but on my ohm setting i read 30 ohms. Good or bad?
Videos are nice but I do not know where these part(s) are located. I have a Roper Fridge. There was a noise coming from the freezer it sounded like the freezer wanted to come on then it would go off. Rev up and then off. Continuously. Click click...click... The sound is gone but the fridge part does not get as cold as it used to.
@luckyrefrigeration9825
4 жыл бұрын
May be possible in your freezer insight too much ice and fan motor blade touching to ice and in voice is coming
The tone won’t work with that much resistance. The heater is good with 30 ohms.
@MOR44455
11 ай бұрын
Hello, the heater gives me about 90 Ohms of resistance and it doesn't give continuity. BUT if I plug it directly ... it gets hot, it works! What's going on? Is it bad? Do i have to replace it?
You actually have to take the components out of the refrigerator to test them properly. I hope this helps!
@damianromo7051
Жыл бұрын
Please "emphasize" that the defrost heater must be removed from the fridge for testing. I tested it unplugged but inside the freezer, and it shows nothing. I thought it was bad so I ordered a new one. When I removed it from the freezer & tested it, it shows continuity.
@rswow
Жыл бұрын
Need instructions on how to do that. The wires are connected with some long black 'tubes'. Do you just pull to take the wires apart, or what?
@rswow
Жыл бұрын
K. They do pull apart. Got one connection apart using moderate to hard force. But the other one won't give no mater how hard I pull! It's thick black rubber tube over a round metal connection shaped almost like the hand end of a baseball bat; how to separate that male end from the female end?
Thank you, nice video
My freezer works fine but not the fridge I am getting frost in freezer and on fridge vents.. I replaced the thermostat but no improvement. How can i know what to replace next? the timer or the heating element? If I advance the timer and take the back freezer panel off, should I be able to see the heating element get hot or red?
@repairclinic
9 жыл бұрын
robert arrubla The heating element will get red hot if both the element and timer are working, but if it does not either part could be to blame which is why we recommend testing the element with a meter.
@brucedevoogd261
9 жыл бұрын
robert arrubla Did you check your fan as well. If it is not moving the air then the freezer will frost over and you will get warm air in the refrigerator.
@micheletmilon3490
7 жыл бұрын
RepairClinic.com
whirelpool fridze heter no countny nuty but showing regiesten it heter ok or not
Great videos. Testing my defrost heater, I get a reading of zero ohms exactly. In the video you state that if the meter reads from 0 to 50 ohms, then there is continuity. But zero ohms exactly can't be right though?? So would my defrost heater be defective then or not??
@repairclinic
8 жыл бұрын
Zero ohms of resistance = good element. Infinite resistance = bad.
@montanajones8393
8 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the reply. Well my fridge has me totally stumped. Its a 6 yr old top freezer Frigidaire that started acting up with the freezer compartment. Cleaned the dusty coils & it was cold in the freezer again but it was running continuously. Since the defrost element is good & the only way to check the defrost thermostat is to cut it out, I decided to bite the bullet & ordered a new defrost thermostat & defrost timer just to be safe But the problem remains. If left plugged in, the fridge will run during an 8 hour period & will shut off 2 x only. Depending on where it is during the cycle in the 8 hrs the freezer is either not very cold ie. water will not freeze & the fridge compartment is not very cold either or there will be frost on the back cover & water will freeze. I checked to see if the drain line was plugged up & ran water through it no problems. Aside from the wiring harness, there is not much left to check. Suggestions or ideas??
@tonysantamaria19
8 жыл бұрын
I wish Repair Clinc would've answered your question. My Whirlpool Gold side-by-side is doing a similar thing. My evaporator coils are iced over, mainly at the bottom. When I defrost them with a hair drier the fridge gets cold. After a couple days, they are iced over again. The heater - ohms checked good. The frozen thermostat is closed. Not sure if it is stuck closed. I guess I could put a blow drier on the thermostat to see if it will open. I know freeze spraying the bi-metal closes it. The thermistor passed a diagnostic self test.
@Clearanceman2
7 жыл бұрын
Usually if the heater is good, the thermostat is bad. You need to test the thermostat.
the heater circuits have gone faulty on my freezer... when the freezer starts defrosting it trips the fuse box switch. we recently disconnected the plug for the heater/sensors and it stopped the tripping issue but after 2 days the radiator had completely frozen up and the fan was unable to pull air through it. On the heater circuit (temp sensors and the heater element), what is the most likely component that is causing a grounding issue (which is causing the fuse box to trip)? can the heater element ground onto the radiator?
@repairclinic
10 жыл бұрын
***** Sure, could be a shorted to ground defrost heating element. In most cases we have a testing video linked to the defrost heater on our website. Enter the model number of refrigerator into the website search engine to see the part testing info: www.RepairClinic.com?TLSID=1773
I have a Whirlpool Gold french door fridge with the bottom freezer drawer, it stopped cooling and when I used the on board diagnostics to check the thermostat/heater coil circuit it tested as open. My thermostat is reading at 0 Ohms and I can't seem to get a good reading on the heater coil. It's a model GX55HDXVB00, is there any other way to test the coil?
@repairclinic
9 жыл бұрын
+Lizzy Holloway The heating element should have a specific resistance. You may need to adjust the ohm range setting on the meter to get it to display properly. Normally, if you have a defrost problem the freezer is fine and the refrigerator section is warm. We would start with cleaning the condenser coils if the unit is not cooling properly.
@lizzyholloway150
9 жыл бұрын
+RepairClinic.com The freezer was fine, but the fridge completely defrosted and the condenser coils freeze up with in a minute or two.
@stevefudge2061
8 жыл бұрын
What ended up being the problem Lizzy?
@lizzyholloway150
8 жыл бұрын
Defrost heater was fried. You can cycle through the dios settings and it will tell you if it's open or shorted, open means either the defrost heater or the thermostat. Either way they're recommended to be changed at the same time. I got my parts on Partsdr.com, and they were far cheaper but still OEM Whirlpool parts.
@stevefudge2061
8 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the quick response and info Lizzy...I'm having the same problem, that's why I asked.
My fridge has exactly the same issue as michaels1992. Which part would be broken? The continuity test says 90 Ohms? Thanks
@repairclinic
9 жыл бұрын
cruz candelaria The best place to start is our website's troubleshooting and repair help information. Please enter your refrigerator's model number at www.repairclinic.com/repairhelp?TLSID=1773.
@cruzcandelaria7270
9 жыл бұрын
***** Thanks. I did that but my problem is not listed (type GC2220). The closest one is "Refrigerator not defrosting". Although it isn't, I feel that the problem is different since defrosting trips the RCD and it shuts off completely. With the heating element disconnected the problem does not occur. With the element connected, it gave me an electric shock touching the outside of the element. I don't mind replacing it but I am in Europe I would need to have a friend order it and FedEx it to me, so it would be difficult to return if it wouldn't fix the problem. Could it be anything else then the heating element? Thanks for your assistance.
@omarhammoud7223
7 жыл бұрын
RepairClinic.com
Mine shows 252 ohms of resistance - what could that mean? Is it broken?
so i checked mine and it reads 38. but is doesnt get hot from what i can see. idk
same problem-The continuity test says 80 Ohms - 14ft frigidaire Stand up freezer
I am getting 30 ohms through my heater and not continuity tone. Would that mean its screwed?
My defrost heater shows zero ohms resistance when tested with digital multimeter. My local appliance parts guy says it's working fine. Your vid says zero ohms is bad. Now I'm confused. Can I hook it up to 120v on my workbench and see if the element glows? Mine is a glass tube with spiral element.
@repairclinic
9 жыл бұрын
Warren Arf Williams Our video does not say that. We say at the 1:40 mark "if the meter reading shows a result between zero and fifty ohms of resistance, the component has continuity". This would indicate the heater is good.
@WarrenWilliams
9 жыл бұрын
***** Thanks for the VERY fast reply! My freezer still frosts up after a manual defrost and the frzr compartment temp eventually rises to 20 degrees where popsicles get mushy. Defrost thermometer tested good as well. What's left? It's 17 yrs old, SxS GSS25KRS
@repairclinic
9 жыл бұрын
Warren Arf Williams The control board on the back is likely defective. The relay for switching on the defrost heater probably failed. www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/WR55X10942/1531075?TLSID=1773
@tonysantamaria19
8 жыл бұрын
Do you know which of the tree relays on the control board switches the heater on? (K1, K2 or K3) I have a Whirlpool Gold side-by-side model # GD5SHAXMQ00. Do you have a schematic of the control board?
@johnhorton3635
2 жыл бұрын
@@repairclinic
i dont think my coil/spring is inside any glass container anymore, i think the glass broke - so it has NO more protection on it... how bad is that?
@repairclinic
9 жыл бұрын
atamotua64 If the glass broke we recommend replacement. It is likely to short out when ice melts and water drips onto it.
@Splash-Pro-Gaming
11 ай бұрын
@@repairclinicmy glass heater broker thrice now. Can we change to non glass heater? And what are cause of breaking often?
We can't blame him either. With a little tinkering you should be able to get it up and running again.
My defrost heater shows 115 continuity is it good or bad?
@repairclinic
9 жыл бұрын
ricky daniel Good. As long as the there is some resistance and 115 ohms is just that. If it had no continuity (infinite ohms) then it would need replacement.
12 years ago oo god
I have a Hotpoint stove/oven and i'm trying to replace the door seal located on the door itself. My stove door looks just like this one in this video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eYRmsaVmftreibg.html any help would greatly be appreciated... (BTW the parts i bought for my Samsung fridge worked nicely... replaced all 4 parts and got the freezer and fridge to cool again - i replaced the 2 cool/heat sensors, the fan, and the heater unit, all on the inside of the freezer unit, behind the back panel.)
@repairclinic
9 жыл бұрын
atamotua64 Perhaps this video will help. kzread.info/dash/bejne/aXx2q5WpmLi2pJc.html
I am getting 30 ohms through my heater and not continuity tone. Would that mean its screwed?