Hi Tim I just wanted to give you guys a big thanks for making these videos. This type of work is frustrating enough with out dragging a camera around. I"ve used several of you video on my '99 ltd and I've a few for planned for the future such as the starter and alternator. I'd love to see a timing belt/water pump replacement if you every feel like documenting one. Thanks for all your help along the way, be safe at work!

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

Hi Bill, glad you're liking the videos we've been making. Yes, we are planning to do a Timing Belt/Water Pump Replacement video sometime early this year. So, stay tuned.

you’ve helped me out so much with your videos, my runner would normally sit at 202 for the coolant temp, I replaced my radiator and thermostat and now it doesn’t get hotter than 186… THANK YOU

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

You're very welcome Jonus. Great to know our videos are helping you out. Thanks for commenting. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!

Timmy your #1 when it comes to these 3rd gen educational videos, the best on youtube!.

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Ricardo. We appreciate the nice compliment. Happy Wrenching!

I know it's a 5 year old video, but thanks for the great videos Tim!!! So timely!! Great explanation as always!

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

You're very welcome Rob. Glad you like the video.

@mendoblendo321

2 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman hey my engine feels real hot but not overheating any idea? It's a 95 3.0 4runner

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

@@mendoblendo321 Well, without knowing the actual temp, it's hard to say if there's even an issue. You should get a Scan Gauge tool or maybe a Bluetooth OBDII reader sending info to a phone application to find out the coolant temps you're running at.

@mendoblendo321

2 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman radiator was around 180 to 190ish. Engine head 175ish And around 400ish In the back of engine on drivers side. I bought a new thermostat and gasket today to do soon followed by fixing the KS I keep getting code 52

I cant help but say thank you again, Tim. You saved me a ton of money and gave me a serious feeling of accomplishment after doing the timing belt kit.

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

You're very welcome Raynond. We love hearing from people like yourself sharing your success stories with us. It puts a smile on our faces every time. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it!

Big thanks! I live in Brazil and was able to invert the thermostat which had been changed by Toyota dealer at the 12 position. Your video inspired me to investigate the problem and change it to the 6 o'clock position with my trusted mechanic. The difference was huge, from 98 °C (208 °F) to 86 °C (187 °F). Specially here which is generally hot, now in the middle of our winter we get 27 °C (81 °F), nice weather but a little difficult for our old engines. Thanks again! And keep safe!

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

You're welcome Jose. Glad the info we shared in this video helped get your coolant temps down. Take care.

Your videos are the schiznit Tim! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Randy. You're welcome, welcome, welcome!

Timmy is amazing !!! He does excellent and easy to follow videos.

@TimmyTheToolman

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for the compliment.

awesome. Tim you rocks

Thanks for the critical information like torque specs, jiggle valve location etc. I was going to install mine with jiggle valve at 12 as I have in other cars. I've put 200K on the truck and never replaced the thermostat....so it was time. The one I removed had no jiggle valve that I could see but it looked like it came out of the box. I don't have fancy scanners like you do, but the engine wasn't running hot (as it was before I put new radiator in). So it was preventative maintenance while doing a Prestone flush and changing to Toyota Red. One thing that sped the job up a little (still took most of the day) was to reassemble the housing without the thermostat and put a bucket underneath. I disconnected top and bottom rad hose and just dumped water into the top to flush things out around engine faster. You don't have to keep running engine and waiting for thermostat to open. Will do one last flush to make sure everything is out of heater core. Although I know how to replace a thermostat, I never know for sure that I can get at things until I see your videos. I appreciate it as always!

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

You're welcome.

Scan gauge read 204-211. Checked mine yup at jiggle valve at 12, I replaced the thermostat and rotated to 6. 188-191 all day. Thanks for the helpful video and explanation

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

You're welcome.

Thanks for this video, I just placed an order on Amazon for one because mine was broken apart as well.

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

BuddyLe3 hope this video solved your problem! Thanks for commenting

Tim and crew....thanks for another great video...used it to help me change out the thermostat in my 2000 4Runner V6 that was running at 206F operating temp....did not even know this until I put together the diagnostic system you recommended (BAFX adapter and Torque Pro with my 8 inch Android tablet)....my dang dash gauge showed "normal", but now I understand it uses a different temp sensor than the ECU uses....go figure.....I purchased an OEM 'stat and new gasket....pre-tested the new stat in hot water on the stove - it opened fully at 185 F ...old stat was OEM with a date of "09", but the little "flapper" of the jiggle valve was missing , and the small hole was at 10 o'clock position...Put new stat at 6 o'clock as recommended....drove again on highway same route as before with ambient temp around 74 F, and EUREKA !.....operating temp now at 192 instead of 206 F.....I have no idea why that "6 o'clock" position is so important, but it works, and that's good enough for me.....thanks again, and keep the videos coming!

@TimmyTheToolman

5 жыл бұрын

You're welcome Ken. Glad you found our video helpful. You are now a believer of the magical jiggle valve.

@kenk3102

5 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman Tim....I noticed in the video that one of the gauge displays on your phone is "AFR(m)" and showing around 9.7......I am using Torque Pro and I cannot get a reading on either of my 2000 4Runners.....is that a special "plug-in" that I have to load into the app from the internet?....I would like to know what the "measured" air/fuel ratio is running on both my T4Rs....thanks.

@TimmyTheToolman

5 жыл бұрын

@@kenk3102 Hey Ken, no, it's not a special plug-in. It was just one of the available things I found I could monitor when scrolling through the list.

@juvillace22

3 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman Hi. Tim thanks again , What is the name of the app?

@TimmyTheToolman

3 жыл бұрын

@@juvillace22 Torque Pro. It's only for Android phones.

Hi! Thank you so much for this video!. my temps are similar, replaced the radiator, still high temps, should have done the thermostat, or at least checked it because it was only replaced 10k miles ago. Ill do the radiator cap, and report back if that is what fixed my issue. If not ill go and bite the bullet and do thermostat. This difference of 205 vs 190 operating coolant temperature is a such a common problem on the forums. This can really help the next person out!

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

Bardia, after working on Joe's truck, I decided to replace my cap as well for preventative maintenance. I have a new radiator already so I figured adding the new cap would be smart too. But, if you cap looks intact still, I bet that's not the issue. Your thermostat jiggle valve is probably in the wrong position. If you're going to check it, just replace it and get a new gasket as well. The gasket does not come with the thermostat. Your coolant is still good, so I'd get a perfectly clean bucket, rinse it out with water to be sure there's no debris in there and dry it out with a towel. This way, you can reuse it. The thermostat is really easy to do. Just make sure you put the jiggle valve pointing downward towards the ground in the 6 o'clock position. If you still have high coolant temps, I would then check the performance of the fan clutch, and if it seems tired at all with the tests you do, replace it. But, a guy on the Toyota-4runner.org forum said his passed all the tests he did but it was definitely the cause of his high coolant temps. So, you might just want to replace it because with a new radiator, new radiator cap, new thermostat with the jiggle valve in the correct position, you've exhausted all your possibilities unless the system wasn't burped correctly. I've honestly never heard the "burp" term until recently and I don't know how much of an issue it can be. I've always just drained the coolant, refilled it and then ran the engine until the thermostat opened up and topped off the radiator and reservoir. I might find that the coolant level in the reservoir has dropped after a day or two and maybe that was because there was some trapped air in there that finally made it's way out. But now that I know more about it, I'll always run the heater after draining and refilling the coolant to make sure I'm working out any air pockets. Anyway, let me know how it goes and what ends up being the fix to your high coolant temps.

@shahsmerdis

7 жыл бұрын

Tim, I'll give the thermostat a once over tonight. If i remember last time mine might have lost the middle part too. which made me have an ah yah moment once i saw your video. (I had nothing to compare it too), but I gotta confirm tonight when I get home. I really wish I just put back my old coolant when I did the radiator swap it was brand new, and it was replaced 6 months before that. But everyone convinced me to replace it anyway. I had to get just shy 2+ gals of radiator fluid (diluted) so that is 2 gal of coolant at 30 dollars a gal. I guess 60 dollars down the drain. my 4runner as a hole in the frame, so I i've been nickle and diming this car to death. I had so much passion to fix it up for my dad but once I saw that rust hole, that passion kinda went out the door. I burped the system with the spill free funnel, it wasn't so spill free actually....(Still managed to spill some) I just think that some cars are more suspectable to air, so that is why people swear by that product, maybe our 4runner just doesn't care that much. my probably should have changed the lower radator hoses as well, looked kinda crusty with the salt. but live and learn, if I do the tstat, ill go replace everything. I want to bet you are right that is my problem, but ill do cheapest to most expensive like you mentioned. I'll check out the fan clutch this weekend as well, but right now 100 dollars on a car with a rust hole for a maybe is kinda hard to justify at the moment. in any case I am confident in knowing I can do all this maintenance on my own because of your videos when I start to eliminate the problem one by one. Thank you Tim. your videos really the money shot for cooling 101 on our 3rd gens.

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

That's a bummer about the rust hole. I wonder if it could be repaired to give your 4runner some more life. I'm glad I don't live in an area where it snows and they salt the roads. I do go to the snow sometimes, Lake Tahoe mostly, and I think they salt the roads there sometimes. Let me know how the thermostat job goes.

you already answered back to me tim, thanks

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

Oh, I guess I did.

Thanks for all these videos and all your help with my '96 4Runner SR5. I was really happy to see your vehicle is the one I have! My truck won't go into high, will not lock up. Shifts very well but just will not make the jump into high. I have replaced fluid, filter and solenoids and they seemed to work better through the gears but still no lock up. I have read that coolant temp affects the shifting. I have the exact opposite in your video as my coolant temp runs at 186F. Could this coolant temp be low enough to affect lockup? thanks again for these great videos. They have given me the knowledge to do jobs that I never would have considered doing before.

@TimmyTheToolman

11 ай бұрын

Hey John, your coolant temp is normal. There's two different coolant sensors, one that communicates with the ECU, and one that communicates with your dash gauge. I've never tried to diagnose a problem like you're having. It might be an issue with a shift solenoid or the torque converter. I'm happy to know our videos have helped you out. When you figure out what the issue was with your transmission, come back and let us know.

I'm over here like COOL I'm at 212! In 109 heat, idle. Crap!! It gets up to 232 on the highway at 90 mph. 80 it stayed at ~210. I didn't know that was an issue! So glad I clicked on this!

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

You are in some really hot temps, but your coolant temps are a bit high. With my 98 rig that has some air flow constriction to the radiator due to an aftermarket front bumper with a winch, my temps can get up there when I'm climbing grades in really hot temps. Good luck getting your temps down.

thanks Tim sure I have time, super thanks my friend

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

Hey Carlos, I looked it up in my FSM. It says to align the jiggle valve with the protrusion of the water inlet housing and it can be within 15 degrees of either side of the prescribed position. If you give me your email address, I can send you some pics from the page in the FSM to make it easier to understand.

Really usefull info

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for the great videos. Is it necessary to remove the radiator to change the thermostat?

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

You're welcome Ben. No, it's not necessary to remove the radiator to replace the thermostat. You would need to first drain the coolant via the valve on the bottom of the radiator. Once it's all drained out, remove the lower radiator hose. Be prepared for more coolant to spill out when you disconnect the hose. Next, remove the 3 nuts that hold the water neck onto the studs of the water pump. Pull the neck off and be prepared for some more coolant to spill out. The thermostat might fight you a bit to come out. If so, grab onto it with a pair of channel locks or similar tool. You might find you have to clean up a little corrosion on the water neck and water pump housing. Some fine sand paper like emery cloth works pretty good. Make sure to also get yourself a new rubber gasket. The new thermostat doesn't come with one. You have to buy it separately. Good luck!

Thanks for these videos,, so the factory installed that thermostat wrong?

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

You're welcome. Either the factory or a previous owner or mechanic installed it wrong.

Hi, may have been asked but what is the correct way to check operating temp( with a infrared gun that is). Just bought one and I’m getting different readings from the hose, radiator top, valve covers...

nice . i follwed ur guide and everything is cool now except the lower radiator hose seems to be little worm compare to the upper hose which is very hot

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

That's normal. The hot coolant from the engine enters the upper hose, runs through the radiator and is cooled, returns on the lower hose into the water neck, into the water pump, and then pumped back through the engine. Knowing how the coolant flows, the upper hose will be hotter than the lower hose.

@Timmy. Great video. Im a little curious of your scan tool reading 12.5V on the alternator while driving. Is it only an initial reading or is it live data? My 02 Limited shows 13.8. I wish it would be closer to 14.5

@TimmyTheToolman

4 ай бұрын

Your charging volts while driving will vary. 13.8 - 14.2 is around normal.

Timmy The Toolman.... Thank you for these videos... I have a 2001 4Runner and I already have projects for future weekends based on your videos... What's the tool/app your used at the end of this video to check temperatures on your Android? Thanks

@TimmyTheToolman

5 жыл бұрын

You're welcome. Sounds like you're going to make good use of the videos Sean and I have made. I use the Torque Pro app. If you check out the video description, I provide links to the Bluetooth OBDII reader and on/off adapter I use with the app.

Thanks! Turned my jiggle valve to 6 and it was 10c cooler

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

You're welcome. Another believer in the jiggle valve positioning.

@sparrovski

2 жыл бұрын

Ok. What is a jiggle valve?

Me engine design hot but it's not overheating on my gauge? Any idea?

Hi Tim do you know if to replace the water pump do you need to remove all the buttom pulley and everthing as if you are doing the cambelt as well ?

@TimmyTheToolman

6 жыл бұрын

You need to get the timing belt off to get the water pump out. To get the timing belt off, you do need to remove the crankshaft pulley also known as the harmonic balancer. You may as well do the timing belt at the same time and think about replacing the idler pulleys, timing belt tensioner and replacing the cam and crankshaft seals while you're in there. We have a 2 part video for the Timing Belt Job. kzread.info/dash/bejne/qHx3lpiyoKveh8Y.html kzread.info/dash/bejne/n3mmxpmxn6W5aaw.html

I’m looking at putting a 170° thermostatic valve in my 5vz because it’s supercharged with the 2.0” pulley. Hoping to drop the temps somewhat to help my A/C this summer.

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

The lower temp thermostat will help a little.

Hi Tim, I have a 2002 Toyota 4runner 2wd and I replaced the radiator and replaced the thermostat with a Toyota thermostat and yes giggle valve is at the 6oclock position. I am getting alot of gurgling out of the fill cap and no heat through the vents. Fan clutch is good / cap is new but should I try raising the Runner in the front end and try burping it? Any other ideas

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

I'd definitely try burping it again. Did you have your heater control set to high heat when burping the system? Did you have this problem before the radiator and thermostat swap?

Hi Timmy, can u please check the owner repair manual for my 1998 toyota 4 cylinder 2.7 3rz manual jiggle valve thermostat position? Thanks.

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

Respond to me with your email address and I'll send you the related pages out of the Factory Service Manual.

Hey Timmy! I really appreciate this video, having some issues that Im hoping so sort out today! Wondering what OBDii reader you recommend? I want to be able to read the coolant temperature as you did!

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

I provide a link to the reader I used in the video description. It's for Android phones only. I have recently switched to a scan gauge reader for both my rigs. amzn.to/3DTtp5M

You said that the thermostat was never changed, but since it was a 2000 model thermostat, it could’ve been done in the first year under warranty, the piddle valve wasn’t in the factory position. I promise you, that wasn’t installed upside down at the factory. It certainly could have been done by a dealership mechanic.

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

Anything is possible.

hi Tim thanks for your awesomes videos, do you know the orientation of the thermostat for a 2000 4runner 2.7 liters? . thanks

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

Hey Carlos, I'm at work and don't have my 2000 FSM with me. I could look it up in my FSM in a couple days for you if you're not in a hurry.

@RotoRCol

7 жыл бұрын

Hi Timmy I have the same question thanks

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

I don't have my FSM right now with me. If you don't get an answer from me in a couple days, remind me again. I totally forgot to get back to Carlos. Sorry dude.

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

Give me your email address and I'll forward you the info I sent to Carlos.

@RotoRCol

7 жыл бұрын

thanks it is germanlogo600@gmail.com

Hello Tim, great video. Do you happen to have the torque specs for the radiator, and thermostat? I am in the process of changing my radiator, cap, and thermostat, as well as the oil cooler. I will be checking the fan clutch as well. To flush the radiator (system), my thoughts are the following: 1 a - Drain the radiator, drain the oil, remove the alternator, remove the oil filter and change the oil cooler (which includes removing the wheel, etc) 1 b- Refill the engine with oil (including all the steps to do so) 1 c - Replace the fan clutch if needed 1 d - Re-mount the alternator, wheel, etc 2 - Remove the thermostat and use a vac to suck all the fluid from the engine, 3- Leave the thermostat out, pour distilled water into the engine (using a funnel), and remount the thermostat hose without the thermostat 4- Fill the radiator with distilled water 5 - Run the engine 6 - Repeat the steps several times till I see clear fluid 7- Pour the concentrated fluid into the engine (1 Qrt or so per your instructions) 8 - Replace the thermostat and gasket 9 - Replace the radiator and fill it with 50/50 fluid 10 - Finally, burb it. Your thoughts please.

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

The radiator bolts are 9 ft-lbs and the thermostat housing nuts are 14 ft-lbs. Your steps sound good except for #2. I don't think you're going to be able to "Suck" the coolant from the engine. There's a block drain on the passenger side of the engine you can open, but my opinion is what's left inside the engine is pretty insignificant and it will get diluted and cleaned out from the distilled water flushes. Good luck!

@cafesami9356

Жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you Timmy

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

@@cafesami9356 You're welcome.

@cafesami9356

Жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman Timmy I am sorry to keep bothering you. I got the oil cooler out. It was stuck to the engine block. I had to use a torch (quick flames) to break the o ring into pieces (it took me almost an hour or more to remove it). Do you recall if the seal that goes on the 24mm bolt has an orientation (specific sides)?

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

@@cafesami9356 I don't remember if that seal for the bolt has a specific orientation. I don't think so.

Over the last week as I'm driving on the highway in the texas heat I have noticed the temp gauge go higher than halfway twice. Close to 3/4 when I proceed to pull over and turn the ac off and the temp goes back to normal within seconds. Under the hood nothing seems out of place, pulleys and belts are good, fans are running, coolant in system and oil looks clean, no coolant in oil. No signs of running hot. Water pump was replaced along with timing 2 years ago and radiator/cap was replaced 3 months ago. No suspected head gasket issues. I ordered a oem thermostat I plan on replacing in the next 2 days. Should I be concerned about something bigger or could it just be the thermostat? Thanks.

@TimmyTheToolman

Ай бұрын

It could be a thermostat issue. It could be a problem with the fan clutch, but a bad fan clutch would most likely have you overheating at idling situations, not on the highway with plenty of air being pushed through the cooling fins of the radiator.

@TheMexicutioner685

Ай бұрын

@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the reply! Car drives like a dream, I got home and checked again for leaks but nothing. There's coolant in the system as the hoses were nice and full. I have a oem toyota thermostat I'll be throwing on tomorrow and a head gasket leak detector otw just in case.

I live in Canada i buy a 180F thermostat and i have a check engine code , for Coolant Temps to Low .. im running 185/186F is to cold for Canada what i need to do ? im offroading alot in summer , thank you

@TimmyTheToolman

9 ай бұрын

Mid to high 180s is normal for these rigs. Maybe your coolant temp sensor is failing. You should not be throwing a CEL at those temps. I'd replace the sensor.

@Frechette50

9 ай бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolmani gonna look and change it

I'm a little confused now, I've been using the Haynes manual for both my 3rd generation four runners and it always says put the jiggle valve at the 12:00 position on the 3.4 V6 thermostat? I thought that was because the bubbles float and it's easier to bleed the system with the jiggle valve at the top.

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

The Haynes manual is wrong and the Toyota factory service manual is right. You're just going to have to trust me one this. But, if you don't want to rely just on my word, do a Google search on the subject and you'll find Toyota forum threads that discuss this topic.

@b50richard

4 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman Tim I'm so glad I came across this information I did read the forums and then came back and read your reply. I trust you Tim, I'm going to change the position of the thermostats on both our 4Runners. It'll be a few weeks because I just had hernia surgery on Wednesday! Argggg!

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

@@b50richard If you have a way to monitor your coolant temps like with a scan gauge or phone app getting info from a bluetooth OBD II reader, you will see the difference in temp. Right now at the 12 o'clock position, you're probably running in the high 190s to low 200s. After you switch to the 6 o'clock position, you'll be running in the high 180s to low 190s. It basically equates to around a 10 degrees difference. But, without some type of aftermarket gauge, you won't be able to notice any difference with the analog needle gauge on your dash. Those analog gauges won't show minor fluctuations like that. Monitoring your coolant temp with an aftermarket system is very helpful. You will notice a problem much sooner than with the stock analog gauge. Once you see the analog gauge rising, your coolant temp will have already spiked and you need to pull over on the side of the road very quickly or risk overheating and doing permanent damage to your engine. If you do monitor your temps with an aftermarket gauge, let me know the temp difference you see. Hope your hernia surgery healing goes well. Happy Wrenching!

@b50richard

4 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman THANKS MAN!!😊😊

I hear the engine of this vehicle as a grind voice of a pulley ,is that correct ?

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

I don't understand what you asked. Are you saying you hear a noisy pulley on his engine?

@tahahadada1936

Жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman yes

With all due respect, Im still skeptical about the jiggle valve at 6 because it goes against physics. I just bought a new Toyota thermostat this morning and installed it at 6. The other thermostat I had in there was at 12 and I replaced it in 2018. The one before that was replaced in 2014 by the dealership with the timing belt and water pump and it was also at 12. The first radiator was replaced in 2011 because my original radiator cracked and started leaking and I bet thats the culprit right there. The fan clutch stops on a dime because its been filled with the silicone oil accordingly. The existing Toyota radiator may have become clogged through the last 9 years of use but I have a Koyo coming in at the end of September. Until then, my rig is still running at 204+ until my Koyo gets here. Ill advise. My respect to all of you, be safe and keep on trucking!

@TimmyTheToolman

3 жыл бұрын

I've seen with my own two eyes on a couple occasions the difference the jiggle valve position makes. At the 12 o'clock position the engine would run at around 198-202. With the jiggle valve at 6 o'clock, the engine would run at the normal temp of 188-192. Lots of guys were doubtful too until they saw the difference for themselves as well. And, this is isn't some original discovery from Timmy the Toolman. The Toyota factory service manual specifies this position. I just followed what the FSM told me to do and also followed the advice of a ton of guys on the Toyota forums said to do. I don't understand it myself and actually started a thread on T4R.org to see if anyone had a clue how the jiggle valve at the 6 o'clock position could have this positive effect. www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/222051-why-does-thermostat-jiggle-valve-position-make-such-big-difference.html It definitely sounds like you have some sort of other issue going on. I've heard good things about the Koyo radiator so maybe that will solve your problem. Good luck.

@likits1999

3 жыл бұрын

Timmy, Thank you for taking the time to reply and explain everything in detail to me. My Koyo radiator came in early. Last Saturday, I made a few trips to the dumps trailering yard debris. My coolant and transmission fluid reached 221 degrees before we switched tow vehicles to complete the job. On Sunday, I took my Toyota radiator out and when I removed the shroud, it had dried out red coolant that had been leaking below the seals. I installed my Hayden 679 and the Koyo radiator. The Koyo radiator was a breeze to install. Even my shroud bolted right on. I still kept the thermostat at 12 o'clock because I didn't want the Koyo to take the credit for the jiggle valve position. My coolant was between 204 and 217. I switched the thermostat to the 6 o'clock and man am I a believer now! Do you know anything about fixing tennis elbow? Lol. My truck's colant is now between 188 and 194. The transmissin has kept below 170, unless I dog it on an uphill and it goes up to 194. So NUMI built our rigs with the thermostat at 12 o'clock. You read the FSM and figured out that NUMI made a massive mistake. I appreciate you man!!! Thanks to you and Sean, a lot of us are able to improve our rigs. Beer and seafood from La Costa if whenever find yourself in Martinez. Its crazy how I used to tow a 22.5 footer wakeboarding boat for a few years and my truck didnt even overheat with the first radiator. Thanks so much once again man and have a nice evening!

@TimmyTheToolman

3 жыл бұрын

@@likits1999 Welcome to the 6 o'clock jiggle valve position believers club. It is pretty crazy the difference it makes. Your engine will be much happier over the long run now. I drive past Martinez all the time on my way up to and back from my cabin near Downieville. I can't remember but have you been to any of our parties yet? We were going to have one this summer but with this Covid-19 situation going on, we decided to not have one. I'm definitely not throwing a party where everyone is wearing masks and my neighbors might freak out seeing a big gathering of people at my place. So, maybe next year if they ever decide to lift all the ridiculous restrictions on businesses and people.

@TheDesertegal7

3 жыл бұрын

i experienced it my self.. Jiggle valve @ 6 o clock: temp is 82-84, at 85 i can hear the fan clutch engage and keeps spinning until temp down to 82-83. when downhill on cold day temp can drop to 80 and for a couple of moments to 79. Jiggle @ 12 o clock: temp is 85-88 and can reach 90 and for a moments to 91-92. can hear the fan working 87-88 and disengage 85-ish. Downhill usually sticks 85. above with normal drive with two miles hill climb on a 3RZ manual transmission. (all cooling system components in perfect condition) summary 12 higher temp as thermostat keeps closed for longer time due to cold water passes from the valve and cooling the wax. 6 position cold water passes beneath the wax allowing hot water to contact wax and opening the thermostat

hey tim awesome video. mine is around the same temp. got the cap fix but going to check the thermostat . I think when I did the waterpump I took out the old one but installed it wrong. if it's that high can it cause the fan to be on more often to make me think my fan clutch is mess up?

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

You should definitely check the position of your thermostat jiggle valve and fix it if it's not in the 6 o'clock position. This might be the sole reason you're running a little higher than normal. Running higher coolant temps could possibly keep the fan clutch engaged more. I think the fan clutch is doing most of it's work when you're at a stop and the coolant temp starts to rise due to the lack of additional air flow through the radiator cooling fins. It could also see it engaged more when you're climbing grades or in very hot temps like driving through Arizona in the summer. It makes sense that having the fan clutch engaged more would cause it to wear out faster. I just did some more research on how these fan clutches work. Here's a couple good links I found: kzread.info/dash/bejne/fqSurNWappbYo9o.html www.haydenauto.com/upload/HaydenAuto/Documents/Cat_Hayden/Fan_Clutches_How_They_Work.pdf Let me know when you figure out what was causing your high coolant temps.

@Hello_its_me_mario

7 жыл бұрын

+Timmy The Toolman hey tim the t Stat didn't have a jiggle valve?

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

Then that means it was replaced at some point in the past and they put an aftermarket thermostat in. Go buy yourself an OEM thermostat and gasket and replace it with the jiggle valve in the 6 o'clock position. I bet your high temps go away after you do this.

@Hello_its_me_mario

7 жыл бұрын

+Timmy The Toolman thanks tim. does it have to be oem to have the jiggle valve

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

Maybe there's an aftermarket one for sale with a jiggle valve but I wouldn't risk it. Many people have experienced problems when they chose an aftermarket thermostat. This isn't an expensive OEM part to buy. Trust me. Buy an OEM one and get a new OEM gasket to go with it. A few bucks potential savings isn't worth the hassle when you find it didn't work out.

Hey mr. Tim, mines runs between 185-194 between moderate daily use, the thing is once i runs on uphills, yesterday it reached 212° over 3500rpm, i got replaced new coolant, new thermostat six o clock position, New waterpump, new hoses, new radiator cap 1.1bar, on flat road temp is ok, got to say, add to the causes a steel bumper and 285/75r16, idk if you can give me an opinion on that

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

My 98 rig is heavy with aftermarket add-ons and I can get into the 200's no problem while climbing sustained grades in hot ambient temps. When you hit 212, what was temp outside? Were you running the AC?

@reiestrada9167

2 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman on 90°f

@reiestrada9167

2 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman what is giving worries is adding a recently rebuilt it TRD Eaton Supercharger, i already adquired a 170° f Yota stat from Joe Joe, waiting to be installed once shipping arrives, other than that, would you recommend to jump up to alum radiator? EBays shows some cheap bargain, between 210 - 290$ alum rad deal,

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

@@reiestrada9167 Hmmm, 90 degrees isn't terribly hot. Maybe see how much the thermostat helps first before going for the aluminum radiator. I have a 170 degree Stant thermostat and it helps some.

@reiestrada9167

Жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman i just bought the alum rad a week ago, what I see is that going uphills is when hot temps reach 212° or even higher, what i noticed is once engine works over 199° starts drawing from expansion tank but not from radiator, I'd hate to selling my lovely 97' SR5, I just hope 170° stat + alum radiator helps, everything else is recently replaced, I think maybe fanclutch is starting to fail, that's the only part haven't been replaced yet

4:44 could bridge the fan to cool engine quicker ? dunno about viscous fan tho

@TimmyTheToolman

6 жыл бұрын

Don't know what you mean by "bridging" the fan.

@martinparker6536

6 жыл бұрын

most car radiators have a temp sender for the electric fan,if you pull that connection off and 'bridge' the wiring connection inside the fan will stay on

@TimmyTheToolman

6 жыл бұрын

Gotcha but this is a mechanical fan that runs off a belt driven by the engine.

@martinparker6536

6 жыл бұрын

ok, i dont understand how a viscous fan works, does that fan spin independently ?

@TimmyTheToolman

6 жыл бұрын

The fan turns with the engine but only turns one for one when the fan clutch is locked up. When the engine is colder, the fan is spinning but not at the same speed as the engine. There is a round temperature sensitive spring that will elongate when the vehicle reaches operating temperature. When the spring elongates and turns, it opens up fluid channels for the fan clutch fluid to flow into other chambers that makes the clutch lock up and then turn at the same RPMS as the engine. I can't explain in detail like a mechanical engineer could how exactly it's able to lock up but what I said is the best I can do.

Hi Timmy My check engine light just came on on my 1999 3rd gen 4Runner. Ob2 scanner showed two codes p0115 (engine coolant temperature circuit), and p0116 (engine coolant temperature circuit range/performance problem) I am guessing I possibly have a bad engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor based on internet researching that I have done and codes that were thrown My Ob2 reader gauge showed my coolant temperature while driving was 215-230 Any thoughts Or experience on what I described above? I will be running through all the checks you listed in this video as well.

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

Sounds like the coolant temp sensor that screws into the front of the intake manifold needs replacing. You would need to get the plenums off the top of the engine to expose that sensor. We have many videos that would show you the steps to getting the plenums off. You can choose from our Valve Cover Gasket video, Supercharger Install video. or our Misfire Diagnosis/Fuel Injector Replacement video to show you the steps to properly get the plenums off and back on. The coolant temp sensor will be easy to see once the plenums are out of the way. It screws into the intake manifold between the fuel fails right behind the camshaft pulleys. It's the only sensor you'll see screwed into the manifold on the front. If you have more questions, just ask.

@jj2956

2 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman thx for response…well the level of coolant was down approximately 3 liters so I topped up the fluid What a bonehead move for me not to be checking the levels regularly. I just figured I change coolant at the regular scheduled interval of miles so no need to check. Hopefully that’s all the issue was from the codes being throw and the ECT was doing it’s job.

@jj2956

2 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman did a 10 minute drive and coolant temperature ranging 183-187 so hopefully the issue is resolved gonna monitor coolant level closely now to ensure there is no leaks but I think it would have been obvious if there was a leak Is it normal that coolant level could evaporate approximately 3 liters? My last coolant flush was June 19 2019. From that time I put on approximately 13000 miles.

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

@@jj2956 It's not normal for a cooling system to be down that far unless you have a leak somewhere or your engine is consuming it from a bad head gasket.

@jj2956

2 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman ok just to confirm what would be the part number for head gasket and official name? I am confusing myself with valve cover gaskets, plenums etc and am not sure where what and where the head gasket is located Thanks

Some time ago I kept having my coolant steam and spray out of the overflow, turns out the radiator cap was the issue the whole time.

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

Yep, it's a fairly common issue. The cap breaks apart and no longer holds pressure on the cooling system.

I’m almost 100% sure previous owner did coolant replacement took the cover off of the thermostat cleaned it up a bit and slapped it back in upside down 😂

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

I don't think so, but you're entitled to your guess.

Question: Put a new radiator, hoses, thermostat, coolant, and the top radiator hose get's extremely hot to the touch just getting up to operating temperature while letting it purge without the radiator cap in my drive way. The bottom hose from the radiator is cool to the touch. The water pump and timing besl was changed by the dealer 15,000 miles back, don't believe this is the issue. Any ideas? It's a 2002 Toyota Tacoma 3.4

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

Get some way to monitor your coolant temps accurately with either a Bluetooth OBD II reader sending info to a phone app like Torque Pro or a Scan Gauge or Ultra Gauge. Normal coolant temps should be somewhere between 188 - 192. When you burped your system, did you have the heat adjustment all the way hot for the front and rear (if you have one) heaters? This allows the coolant to flow through the heater lines and get the air out of heating system. You also want the front end higher than the rear end to facilitate air removal from the system.

@savnbest4last249

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Timmy, thanks for replying to my question. Yes, I did turn on the heater and burped it in that manner. Didn't get as many air bubbles out of it like you did. But will try it again. The heater is also blowing hot air better than before. Truck runs normal within the middle of the temperature gauge like it always did and not over heating according to the temp gauge. So, I think it's ok? Although, the new upper radiator hose collapses after it sits for awhile and goes back up once I release the pressure from the radiator cap. Happens with the old or new radiator cap I replaced. Going to recheck the overflow line from the radiator to the reservoir again for blockage. Any idea what may be causing the vacuum to lock and collapse the top radiator hose? Bottom new radiator hose is fine. Love your videos. Thanks, Robert

@savnbest4last249

4 жыл бұрын

Also ,replaced the thermostat and placed the jiggle valve to six as you indicated. The previous thermostat was at 12:00 and stamped 1210. I assume it was made in 2010?

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

@@savnbest4last249 Yeah, sounds like the thermostat was changed at least once in the past around 2010.

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

@@savnbest4last249 The collapsing upper radiator hose is not normal. Did you do some research for this problem and come up with any causes?

I bought 2 caps for my 99 and my 02 4Runners and neither had that piece, they both looked like the old one you think broke.

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

Well, you either bought non-OEM caps or the OEM caps came damaged. And, I don't think it broke, I know it broke. The spring and plastic cap ended up in the radiator.

@rednecktech00

2 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman sorry I thought I mentioned...guess I didnt, I bought them from the dealership parts dept.

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

@@rednecktech00 Then that is definitely weird. The OEM caps I've seen have the black circular disk with the spring underneath. Sounds like to me you got some bad caps unless Toyota redesigned them. Maybe ask the folks at the Toyota parts department and see what they say.

Turns out my issue was a broken radiator cap (prev owner had one on without a spring). Now the car never got into the red on the temp gauge but I knew it was kinda hot. Ive only driven about 300 miles like this, How worried should I be from this?

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

The worry if you overheated it bad enough is either cracking one of the heads or blowing one of the head gaskets. If you start losing coolant with no obvious leak, the engine starts running rough, or you get a misfire CEL, that's when it's time to worry.

@brendanschroeder1862

2 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman ok, I got it scanned today. No misfires at all, was running a touch rough but they said since no misfires it could be old engine mounts

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

@@brendanschroeder1862 Time will tell.

@brendanschroeder1862

2 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman haha right. But in the case of this guys engine, did any damage happen?

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

@@brendanschroeder1862 No damage that I am aware of. After shooting this video with him, I never heard from him again. But, after the video, his engine was running fine.

Where in California is your car shop, o where do you leave so I can get you a 2006 4runner with 400 K miles to work on and a Toyota Sienna that is given me a lot of problems.

@TimmyTheToolman

3 жыл бұрын

We don't have a shop. We film the videos at my home in San Jose. We are open to work on anyone's rig but it has to be something we haven't filmed yet. We wouldn't be interested in working on the Sienna, but we might be interested in working on your 4runner. It all depends on what you need help with.

@juvillace22

3 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman well the Sienna was overheating because it has air in the system, I changed the thermostat and purged system and also replace oxigen sensor #1 bank 2. No more engine failure codes, but the Probably needs another engine and transmission it has 400 thousand miles they messed with timing belt . it doesn't start. Call me if you want to work on it. 253-329-3231. Thanks you so much.

Easiest way when engine is hot to relieve pressure is open petcock valve to release pressure

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, that would work, unless your heavy duty aftermarket skid plate is in the way and then it wouldn't be so easy.

What's interesting is that I've heard multiple times elsewhere that the jiggle valve is to be @ the 12 o'clock pos??? To conclude, as you've mentioned that thermostat is the the original one & never RPL'd meaning that it "may" have been installed incorrectly by Toyota??? If someone may please double check this as I keep getting different answers from diff. mechs about this silly jiggle valve.

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

Dave, Please, Please, Please trust me here. The Toyota factory service manual clearly states it's suppose to be at the 6 o'clock position. But, the real proof is seeing the difference in the coolant temps first hand with the two different jiggle valve positions. I've personally seen a difference of around 10 degrees in the coolant temp from the 12 o'clock to the 6 o'clock position. If you have a used thermostat at the 6 o'clock position, you'll be running at around 188-192 degrees Fahrenheit. At the 12 o'clock position, you'll be running at around 198 to 202 degree Fahrenheit. If you have a new thermostat, the spring will be a little stiffer and it won't open as easily as a used one. I've tested this out and saw the difference in how far they opened by putting them in a pot of hot water and then measured how far each of them opened at the same temperature. The old thermostat opened up further. So, a new thermostat at the 6 o'clock position will give you coolant temps around 190-194 and at the 12 o'clock position coolant temps around 200-204. If you have an aftermarket bumper and maybe a winch, you'll run a little hotter because you will have less air flow through the cooling fins of your radiator. Those stupid Haynes manuals are not correct. The Toyota FSM is correct. So, Dude, I don't know how I can persuade you further to believe me. This is something I am certain of. If you still choose not to believe me, do a Google search for this subject and mention T4R in your search. There are forum threads on this subject that back up what I'm telling you. Good luck.

@dmironyuk

4 жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Timmy, appreciate you mentioning the Haynes manuals as most mechs will usually base it off those books & have heard them reference these. If that's what the Toyota manual states then surely I'll go with your answer. Thanks again for your input!

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

@@dmironyuk You're welcome Dave. Happy Wrenching!

The jiggly valve was it. Mine is doing this right after hg at timing

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

Another believer in the jiggle valve position. Welcome to the informed club.

@Transmissiondude

Жыл бұрын

@@TimmyTheToolman no fing way. You responded. Your a celebrity in my world Tim. Thank you. With my know how and you’re videos I motor swapped one. And did hg h20 pump and all the gaskets and hoses through yota1 and yota shop. Was dealing with a issue of over heating. Couldn’t figure it out. Everything is new. Bad radiator. Changed that and was seeing nominal 206. I didn’t like it. So back in I went. It’s just good practice at this point. So I high five myself and carry on. Why do I have to live the t4r so much. Oh well. I should count my blessings t4r are cheaper than drugs. Lmao.

@TimmyTheToolman

Жыл бұрын

@@Transmissiondude I don't know if I'm a celebrity, but thanks. You're very welcome! We try to respond to most people commenting and asking questions. It's one of the nice things we try to do for people. Great job doing all your own work. It's definitely worth your time and money to do it. Just think how much a shop would have charged you for all that work you did. Drugs might seem affordable compared to what a shop or dealership would have charged you. You're doing great. Keep it up!

Just an FYI, the part number listed on amazon's guaranteed fit thing is wrong for those looking ! I Was about to pull the trigger then googled the part number and its not even for a 4runner!

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

I just bought my radiator cap at the dealer. It's not that expensive but I can understand wanting to save wherever you can.

@shahsmerdis

7 жыл бұрын

Tim: its a combination of not wanting to go to the dealer, and a hassle free return policy if something is not right.

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

Got it. I actually like visiting my local dealership parts department. The people working there are very cool and they even set me up with a 15% discount when they found out I'm making repair videos. Now, I still buy most of my parts online at Camelback Toyota, but sometimes when I'm having a hard time finding something I need, like the contacts and plunger for my starter, the dealership can be a valuable resource. I recently bought alternator brushes from the dealer and I'm going to install them today as preventative maintenance. Video to follow.

So if that's the original thermostat then someone at the factory put it in wrong I guess? Weird. I guess it can happen.

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

I don't know if they did it wrong or the guys on the assembly line didn't get the memo for the proper installation. Or, maybe the engineers decided after the fact that the jiggle valve position made a difference and made the correction in the manuals.

I think the old owners did replace the thermostat. The jiggle valve was in the wrong orientation.

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

That is quite possible!

12.7-12.8 volts on a running engine, isn't that too low? Toyota's manuals for various engines says 13.2 is a normal minimum.

@TimmyTheToolman

4 жыл бұрын

For some reason, the Torque Pro app doesn't show an accurate reading for the volts. It basically shows 1 full volt low. So, it was actually really at 13.7 - 13.8 volts. I know this because I hooked up a multimeter to my battery while also viewing the Torque Pro app and I noticed it read low.

If that's the original t-stat.....that means the factory installed jiggle valve in the wrong position?

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

I was wondering the same damn thing. My jiggle valve was in the 3 o'clock position when I changed mine. Others on the Toyota forums have found their original thermostats in the wrong position as well. The FSM says specifically to place the jiggle valve pointing downward in the 6 o'clock position. Maybe Toyota realized after the fact that the jiggle valve position definitely makes a difference with the coolant temps and wrote the corrected position in the FSM. And, I know for sure the jiggle valve position makes a difference because I've seen posts from lots of people on the Toyota forums saying it definitely does affect your coolant temps if you have the jiggle valve in the wrong position. What's interesting though with my own truck, is I wasn't experiencing abnormal temps before I changed my thermostat. And I've heard this same thing from other 3rd Gen owners. But, then there's guys who say their coolant temps were 10-15 degrees too high, twisted the thermostat into the right position, and bingo, the temps dropped down to normal. It's a weird deal, but since enough people have reported a temp drop by putting the jiggle valve at the 6 o'clock position, I'm going to keep on telling people to check and correct their thermostat jiggle valve position as a possible fix to running abnormally high coolant temps.

@MinhBui-ni1by

7 жыл бұрын

looks like i'm checkin my t-stat this weekend :). Actually i should check my temps to see if they are in the 190-194 range like yours first :)

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

Yeah, check the temps before you do anything. A Bluetooth OBDII reader with the Torque Pro app is the way to go if you have an Android phone because it's way affordable. I think there's probably phone apps for I-phones as well but I can't give any advice on it because I only use Android.

@MinhBui-ni1by

7 жыл бұрын

+Timmy The Toolman I got the same one you have. Only own 1 android in my house but I got it up and did a test. Exactly the same results as yours. 190-194 operating temps :)

@TimmyTheToolman

7 жыл бұрын

Nice. I've never been able to know exactly what my coolant temps and trans temps were doing with my vehicles until now. This technology is an awesome resource. Knowing what the trans temp is doing is huge because you can prevent overheating your trans when you're really pushing your rig hard up mountain roads, towing, 4wheelin, etc. I use to own a Honda Accord that I drove the shit out of in the mountains going to mountain bike races. I ended up donating it to charity when the transmission started to slip on me at around 240,000 miles. The engine was solid though. Didn't burn a drop of oil. In retrospect, I should have put a rebuild trans in and kept it. I have no doubt I overheated the trans multiple times when I had the car loaded with teammates and our gear going to races at some of the California ski resort towns like Mammoth Mountain and Big Bear. I bet my trans temps were through the roof and I had no idea I was cooking my trans fluid.

Lol. 204F is not running HOT. Boiling point for straight water is 212F not counting what pressure cap the car has. 50/50 coolant boiling temp is 250 minimum. 204F NORMAL.

@TimmyTheToolman

2 жыл бұрын

Ok, if you say so. I know these engines well, I'm guessing a lot better than you, and the normal operating temp shouldn't be around 204. They normally run between 188-192. But hey, you believe what you want. I know what I'm talking about. You on the other hand, not so much. Mentioning boiling points means nothing. 210 degrees is pretty hot for these engines. Push it to 230 degrees and you're running the risk of blowing a head gasket or cracking a head.