Thank you CSL Messiah! I will try this! It's always good to rub the shaft with grease!

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

Im not the… Good luck mate! 😅

I have to say I just switch from the thrustmaster products and the only thing I was disappointed was that it was creaking and cracking. Even my thrustmaster stuff never did that and this totally took care of it it's made it to where I feel like it's the product I intended to be now, thanks!

@jamesirvine9493

3 ай бұрын

when i heard that noise i blamed the boost kit, i came from t300 and i managed to get it feeling nice and have did the same now with the 5Nm making it feel like the t300 but with more consintency, are you using the boost kit, i think it makes it impossible to tune

@apexshaver7301

3 ай бұрын

@@jamesirvine9493 I do... Not sure what you mean about not able to tune I have no problem tuning anything... I don't run the plastic coupler I have the metal ones on all my wheels

@jamesirvine9493

3 ай бұрын

@@apexshaver7301tuning so it feels like a car not so it ripps your arms off like a lot of people think driving a car is like, you should feel weight transfer and camber

@apexshaver7301

3 ай бұрын

@@jamesirvine9493 yeah I got mine turned down even though I have the eight new meters to get more Fidelity and it works really well I don't know why people need 15 20 or 25 foot pounds of torque I've got plenty in this unit... The upgrade to 8 mm makes a definite difference though in your fidelity and detail

@eloy559

2 ай бұрын

@@apexshaver7301Are those better I was thinking of getting those but it wanted to save a few🤦🏽‍♂️

thanks you both !!! thats the reason i love internet , those little helpfull things for everything . and i was start to fell anxiety with those cracks .

Pretty smart. Sam's suggestion makes sense. I always wanted an excuse to get lithium grease. I hope the CSL DD's shaft doesn't become limp and unresponsive from all the rubbing. And watch out for static discharge.

@Tempest1888

2 жыл бұрын

Doesn't the opposite of limp happen if you rub the shaft often with lube? You certainly could suffer from a messy discharge.

Thanks for the tips

You definitely are a master of shafts caressing :))))

@jamesirvine9493

3 ай бұрын

you prefer the bigger ones

Thank you for this video very helpful

Lithium greese is not recommended for plastic my friend, u need to use special one

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

U’re right, thanks for pointing this out. Check the pinned comment.

You can fix it upgrading quick release. I use 3Drap 3D printed QR lite upgrade with magnetic pads mod for CSL P1 V2 and it feels so much better. Sometimes i had that weird feeling when i don't screw it right but now everything is ok

Think this will still work if you've already over tightened the qr? To avoid the clunk, I pretty much have to max mine out now.

1 year latter and same issue...just put some thin alluminium foile around the shaft.Fixed

Hi , I have the CSL dd 8nm i have creakings with qr1 aluminium I should apply silicone grease ?

I'm certain the ffb feels better after this. When I first did it I was amazed. I went for a lap around the Nord's and had to go straight round for a second just to make sure. The difference is night and day.

@MarianBarbieruGitGud

2 жыл бұрын

Good thinking, Sam. How often do you think we should reapply grease?

@thebolsta

2 жыл бұрын

@@MarianBarbieruGitGud I don't think it will need doing very often. It's maybe a month since I did mine and it still feels great. Saying that I only have the one wheel at the moment, I don't swap and change. I'd just reapply if it starts to feel sticky again, be sure to give it a clean though first, just to make sure there's no debris left over. I'd do this for all the adapters too, even the metal ones. It can't do any harm, only make them better...

@MarianBarbieruGitGud

2 жыл бұрын

@@thebolsta Thanks!

@Gelangweilter

2 жыл бұрын

@@thebolsta can you explain how the grease is fixing the cracking problem under strong ffb?

@thebolsta

2 жыл бұрын

@@Gelangweilter Yes...

great idea however we never mix petroleum and plastic because plastic absorbs it and starts breaking down way sooner

Mantap 👍

If i only tighten my qr light to the mark point i feel heaps of play when under heavy load moving the wheel left and right. If i go half turn past this it fixes it but pushes the platic ring at the top of the qr out of place. Is this normal!? Its the same on both my qr on different wheels... im afraid il damage something if i keep this up

Is this solution important only for who change wheels often? 'Cause I will not change wheel at all. I will use only the base wheel.

Looking to improve your race pace even more? - I've released the GitGud Course, the most practical sim course with detailed practice drills and approaches for getting quicker. Link: gitgudracing.com/simracingcourse/ IMPORTANT EDIT: As I later found out, its best to avoid the lithium grease because it’s not recommended to use it for plastics, even though it feels perfect, in the long run it can damage the QR. We still need to lubricate the QR / Shaft but with a different type of grease : SILICONE GREASE. That will work perfectly with the plastic QR and everything will be good. The benefits of lubricating will show up instantly (no more creeks, knocks, better ffb)

@thebolsta

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks. I didn't know this... I wonder why it's safe to use with the polymer inserts in the brake performance kit? I assume it's only certain types of plastic, but better to be safe than sorry. I only used it because I had it with me. But yes silicone or PTFE will be good options. The lithium grease does come in a plastic bottle mind you...

@Gelangweilter

2 жыл бұрын

What is the explanation that grease will stop the cracking under strong ffb? The cracking is driving me crazy. Every time it happen, I expect something to break.

@thebolsta

2 жыл бұрын

@@Gelangweilter tightening the plastic up against the metal shaft results in binding, as the plastic reaches the limit of friction it will suddenly break free and jolt. This only has to be for the slightest fraction of a degree, and due to the stress build up before releasing it, you feel the sudden shock... A bit of lube on the shaft prevents sudden shocks from occurring.

@pa6552

2 жыл бұрын

@@thebolsta Yes, but are those two surfaces not supposed to be locked together without any movement at all? Grease/lube in such instances are counter intuitive to me to be honest, but I guess I'll have a look once I get mine delivered - to me it sounds like the "proper" solution should be more friction/locking, not less?

@thebolsta

2 жыл бұрын

@@pa6552 There doesn't have to be any noticeable movement for the creaking to happen, what is being felt is the release of built up stress when the limit of friction is reached. There will always be some amount of flex even in metal. If you've ever undone a nut or bolt that has been tightened up to the point of almost breaking, you'll know the feeling of a few creaks before the nut/bolt moves. Without overtightening and putting extra stress on the joint, the best thing to do is minimise the friction and stop the build up and sudden release of energy from ever happening. I honestly would still use some lubrication on a metal QR. minimising wear, friction and stress can only be a good thing... And the difference in feeling is undeniable.

Mine has worked fine the entire time I’ve had it so I guess I’m lucky

Will a Ceramic Grease be safe for this application? Does anyone know?

I don't think the shaft should be lubricated. There's still some (nigh undetectable) play, unless you overtighten or something. Someone on reddit suggested putting electrical tape in the top guide channel. For me, that solved the knocking sounds at high FFB torque and generally just improves the feel.

@thebolsta

2 жыл бұрын

If you are going to go down the route of using tape, I would suggest PTFE plumbers tape, it's a lot thinner and designed for threads, it very soft and squashes down well and won't put too much extra pressure on the joint. I'm of the opinion that using tape will simulate overtightening, and also make the distribution of stress more imbalanced and create pressure points though. Lubing your shaft feels great...

@Gelangweilter

2 жыл бұрын

I tried it with tape aswell. It helped but the cracking under strong ffb isn't completly gone. I wonder if there is this cracking while using the Qr1 aluminium.

I used Silicon grease 30.000 on my plastik QR. But now a have a click sound and friction.

Should any grease be added to the metal QR version? I saw somewhere that it was a good idea as well.

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

1-2 drops should be just fine

So this cracking noise was coming from the QR?!!! I was pulling my hair out and trying millions of different FFB settings because I thought this noise is coming from the wheel base. Turns out loosening QR a bit was enough to fix it!

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

Haha, yeah m8, glad u fixed it. Everything’s fine now?

Question: Whose DD Base also makes a very slight noise when it is switched on? It‘s a very slight high frequency noise. I use it with the Boost Kit which also emits a high-frequency noise. I would appreciate if you could let me know if your Base (and PSU) is COMPLETELY silent - when it's on. THX 🙏🏼

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

I have the noise as well. It comes from the PSU. You can talk with Fanatec support and they will exchange it if it bothers you. This noise is pretty common btw for some cheap power supplies (Fanatec cut costs again) but it does not affect in any way shape or form the performance or reliability of the CSL DD.

@zupaburschi6268

2 жыл бұрын

@@GitGudRacing Thx for your answer. But if you turn on the Wheelbase and listen carefully, is it COMPLETELY silent when it is in „idle mode“? I hear a very slight „electrical beep“. NOT (only) the psu…i mean the wheelbase!

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

Yep, for me the noise comes just from the PSU. Wheelbase is silent

@zupaburschi6268

2 жыл бұрын

@@GitGudRacing OK. Thx! My wheelbase (with 90 and 180 PSU) makes also this slight noise 🤔. I wrote to fanatec about this yesterday… I'm curious what they say or what other users report here.

My dd pro arrives tomorrow do you recommend doing this from the start? Also liked and subbed 👍🏻

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

Hi mate, thanks for that! Yeah, absolutely. If you’re using the plastic qr for the 8NM CSL DD you have two options imo: 1) is doing what I did in this video - but use a silicone grease and just apply a drop or two thats it. 2) Use some electrical tape and fit it in those channels from the qr (google this if you re not sure how to do it: QR LITE CSL DD electrical tape fix reddit) In the long run if you race hard and often (100% fb - 2-3 hours per day) I found QR Lite to be a risk using (check my video “A TICKING BOMB” in the same csl dd playlisy)

Does anyone know if this synthetic grease would work? Super Lube 41150 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease.

I keep googling and I can't find an answer because it's hard to explain. But, are you talking about just noise? Because for me, IDK if it makes a noise (headphones) but on hard turns it feels like there's a little something in the way of the wheel turning, it's like a little obstacle that the wheel has to overcome. The feeling is gross and grainy in that spot, but it's always around 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock on the wheel. Feels like the motor moves smooth and then it just loses it in a small spot and as you turn past the spot it kinda clicks and feels gross and if you turn back, you pass it again. I wanted to contact Fanatec, may be reinstall drivers, but it appeared in F1 2020 and Assetto Corsa Competezione, but not always. Some sessions it felt like I always had it, sometimes never. Guess I'll try the tape first and see if it's there, then resintall drivers and contact Fanatec if the tape doesnt fix it. If the tape works, I'll try silicon grease.

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

Hi mate. Have you tried to use these settings in your fanatec control panel? forum.fanatec.com/discussion/634/assetto-corsa-competizione-pc-fanatec-recommended-settings ---> these are the ones that Fanatec Recommends for ACC.

So it should work on every fanatec wheel like the csl elite as well ?

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

Yep, it cant do any harm with the right grease (silicone), but apply just a few drops thats it.

Hi , I have the same problem , do you think that if I buy the quick releases aluminium it will change it ? Thank you

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

For me, yeah, it changed it. No more issues with the metal quick release. Check my other clip - qr lite a ticking bomb. Really recommend buying the metal qr mate

thanks for the help, but please tone down on the loud memes in the future fix videos

The real reason for this is bad manufacturing. The notch in the shaft have way to much play. You can fix it with a bit of electrical tape. When you look in the QR you can see a notch. Cut as many stripes of electrical tape as you need to eliminate the play and stick the tape on the notch. When you put your wheel back on the base you should have a little bit of resistance. You can use a bit of grease to reduce the resistance. I can send you pics of my metal and simplified QR1 to show how i applied the electrical tape. The electrical tape eliminates all the play in the QR.

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

Yep Electrical Tape is another effective solution. What’s better? Try them both and decide, it isnt complicated and its no risk in doing it. The real thing to blame here is the poor design that got us into having to do fixes like that. This week I’ll get delivered the metal QR and looking to see how it will be performing.

@Gelangweilter

2 жыл бұрын

@@GitGudRacing how is the metal Qr1 doing?

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

Still no issues whatsoever mate. Its the only thing that completely fixed the clunkiness in the wheel for me.

@Gelangweilter

2 жыл бұрын

@@GitGudRacing ok, so another 100 euros for fanatec. That sucks to be honest but I am glad that we at least can solve the problem, even though we have to spend fucking more.

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, they should accept kidney payments with these prices for the QR 😅😅 The only big plus is that the wheelbase is not so expensive compared with its competitors. TBH the 350€ base + a custom made 25€ power supply that unlocks the 8nm + 300€ for the adapter and mclaren wheel its really competitive pricing given what you get.

It’s not the quick release it’s the poor mounting clamp.. I got one off a very popular site that clamps both sides of the shaft, not just 1 side.

Hehe buoy

is this just a problem with the plastic qr? will i have issues like this with the metal one?

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

just the plastic QR m8

bgm： gran turismo oil change bgm

Put lithium grease on shaft, now I am hermaphrodite 😶 But joke aside, silicone spray oil used for car interior plastics works good too, just not as viscous as grease, so spray onto a cloth and wipe the areas to lubricate, probably easier to find than grease 👌🏻 Dispose of the cloth immediately, don't try wash it, and don't get it on your skin, silicone is very bad for us.

@JasperStaal86

2 жыл бұрын

good one. And a good reason to finally use this useless can of silicone spray that makes my car interior looks like someone spilled a bottle of massage oil all over it :D

Two rubbing surfaces will cause wear by design.

Can we use machine oil ?

@GitGudRacing

2 жыл бұрын

No, because usually machine oil is petroleum based. You need other type of grease that is best suitable for plastics. Check the pinned comment.

@kravon2315

2 жыл бұрын

@@GitGudRacing good looking out just got my csl dd 8nm and mannnnnn haha

I use my gun oil works perfectly😂😂

@butsargeee

11 ай бұрын

CLP is the most American way 🇺🇸

nah.. just use a tape.. fixed it for me

Fanatec just looks and feels nice on the outside but in reality, the inside is dollar store grade, low quality, unreliable china parts. That is just a fact. I ordered a Formula Carbon rim thinking it was really carbon but when it arrived I realized it was a thin sheet of carbon, almost as thin as cigarette paper which was glued on top of the actual plate that was there entirely for looks. My CSW2.5 wheel base broke after 3 months and my formula "carbon" rims shifter broke after 5. Customer support was primitive to say the least. Worst thing I did was buy Fanatec, BEST thing I did was sell it and buy Simucube, Heusinveld and other none fanatec gear. 2 years later and zero issues.

@jmracer86

Жыл бұрын

@jeffrey bankers You are probably invested in their eco system and are biased. The % of their failures, returns, poor customer service tells me otherwise. How do you explain my formula carbon rim being advertised as “carbon” when it really was just the thinnest sheet purely for aesthetics. Like I said, I’ve had their products. Wheelbase failed, paddle shifters came loose, pedals squeaked and this was all within a few months of ownership. My huesinkveld, simucube stuff however has been bullet proof and it’s been two years and I’m sim racing more than ever. Most of the guys I know had Fanatec failures too. Sure there might be lots of happy Fanatec customers with no issues but that’s just probable with the numbers they sell. Funny thing you mentioned engineers. A buddy of mine is an engineer and he opened up one of the broken wheelbases and couldn’t believe how cheap it was inside 😂

@Cookie-jb3xd

6 ай бұрын

Bro buys carbon shifters and thinks he's getting fast on his computer wheel XD

@jmracer86

6 ай бұрын

@@Cookie-jb3xd 2 seconds a lap with carbon! Jokes aside, I think my “carbon” Fanatec piece of crap rim came with aluminum shifters.

can i do something without this stuff?

If brakes that shit, they have to replace it free of charge!

3 semanas a durado mi base csl dd, auténtica basura

Seriously! R u Fanatec guys really doing this? My Thrustmaster dont have such nonsense. This is just a quick fix and it doesnt solve the root cause of the problem... now i am thinking twice of buying a fanatec