Two things Door County is most famous for - cherries and fish boils. This fresh feast typically consists of whitefish caught by local fishermen, red potatoes and coleslaw. Fish boils at places like the Old Post Office Restaurant turn into an elaborate presentation against a breathtaking backdrop of autumn colors as patrons watch from nearby.
Fish boils go back hundreds of years to the 1600s, when explorers and traders first encountered Native Americans in the forests around Lake Michigan. There are conflicting opinions as to whether the Potowatomi tribe initiated the practice of boiling whitefish in huge pots or if it came from the influence of Scandinavian settlers who populated the upper Midwest. Those who favor the Native American origin story point to the fact that the Potowatomi were a fishing people who recognized the value of the oils and fats that separate from the meat of the fish during the boiling process. The specific cooking process of a fish boil allows for those products to be collected during what is called the “boilover,” when a sudden spike in cooking temperature causes the water to overflow the pot.
Scandinavians didn’t go out of their way to collect these fats and oils, preferring to allow them to wash away in the boilover. This process leaves behind nothing but clean, sweet fish flesh, even if it does need a hearty ladleful of lemon juice and butter to make it more flavorful. Now, fish boils are more of a tourist attraction these days. Guests arrive by the busload to gather on benches around the huge cauldron hung over an open fire to hear the stories of the region and the ritual.
Leading the process is the head cook, known as the boilmaster. This officiant must keep a constant eye on the fire as well as the clock, adding the various ingredients at exactly the proper time to ensure they are cooked through while also bringing the fish boil to a dramatic conclusion in time to stock the smorgasbord in the dining room for supper.
The history of the Door County fish boil (late 1800s) started as a way for the original residents of the region to collect those essential oils from the plentiful whitefish that they netted from canoes in Lake Michigan. Later, fish boils became the method of choice to quickly feed a mess hall full of strapping Scandinavian loggers and fishermen. Lawrence and Annette Wickman started boiling at The Viking in Ellison Bay, followed by owners at the White Gull Inn in Fish Creek.