Spoiler Saver Please remember that this is just for entertainment, what you will see in this video IS DANGEROUS!!!! Please do not copy anything that you see! I hope you enjoy it.

@maico4902

2 жыл бұрын

.

@TimLathen

2 жыл бұрын

It won’t let me add the link on here but it seems there are sellers on eBay with replacement BMU circuit boards for that battery

@DodgyFPV

2 жыл бұрын

Already salvaged a few 18650 from a power tool battery, just one out of 10 was bad, useful cells to have hanging around I am powering my bike lights off them :), also I agree if you don't know what you are doing don't play with them, and definitely don't solder them.

@kylereese4822

2 жыл бұрын

You can get the nickel strip and mini spot welder to rebuild the pack... the batteries i`d use laptop cells for it... :)

@steffendetrick9403

2 жыл бұрын

I love listening to British people talk!

Pro tip: take off your wedding ring when working on energized circuitry - or get a silicone ring. You could easily lose that finger if the battery welded itself to the ring. I still have a large scar from a metal watch-band that exploded when working on a car near the starter (the battery lead is always hot). I cringed every time you touched the sides of the battery with your ring on. Stay safe, I love the content, cheers!

@austinaitchison5731

2 жыл бұрын

More people to like this so he sees it

@kruleworld

2 жыл бұрын

Don't watch Electroboom if this scares you.

@optic1972

2 жыл бұрын

Nearly mentioned the same thing in my comment Thomas...couple of years ago I managed to short a laptop cell on my ring and suffered with severe burns for weeks - super heating to say the least!

@SMAAAASHTV

2 жыл бұрын

Aka: Don't get married if you wanna live. 😂😂😂

@thatman84

2 жыл бұрын

Very good comment. However funny it would be to say "I'm watching 9finger Vince" I would rather Vince keeps all his fingers 😁

Vince when you're using low melt solder be sure to add flux to help it flow and mix in with the regular solder. It makes a huge difference! :)

Great video! The circuit board is for balancing the cells, if you charge a few cells, the voltage will drop because it's being redistributed over all cells. Either connect the battery to a full other battery(with enough discharge) or charge each cell separate bypassing the board. Smart chargers will most likely detect the battery once it's about 15Volts

The mosfet besides the cap is probably blown. You can replace it with a mosfet from taken a motherboard. Measure in diode mode between source and drain, you should get 0.4 to 0.7 V.

@jeroen7062

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah my thoughts aswell. I would've checked the pads where the cap was, see if there is still a short with the cap removed. That mosfet looks like it took some heat and might have shorted.

One trick to make the solder stick to the battery ends is to scratch it before soldering. So the solder has a mechanical connection with the battery. I repaired a vacuum like that and is going really strong. This will also make it easier to solder, you don't need to apply so much heat because the solder will flow to the scratches and grab into.

@davidelliott5843

2 жыл бұрын

Solder simply needs clean, bare metal and the correct flux. Solder uses a molecular level connection. No need to rough up the surface.

I have zero reason to watch this I just watched the whole thing for some reason and found it very interesting! Thanks

these videos are so satisfying and they help me settle down to sleep

If cells drop below 2.7v the bms ic will destroy circuit for protection. I guess that ic is BQ and they will destroy the fuse near cells to protect them and some newer BQ types will lock themselves. In this case you can charge them from output so it’s look like that just ic is locked. You can try unlocking it by shorting data and clock to ground. If that doesn’t help, you will need to reprogram it. But, if you want to program it, be aware that in mostly cases, manufacturers protect them with the password.

@MyTubeSVp

2 жыл бұрын

So, in fact they are self destructing when they think something serious is wrong …

@revelationnow

2 жыл бұрын

Interesting. I was speculating the chip next to the replaced cap was effectively a system management controller that had gone brain dead. I assume it talks to the charger to relay system health (of the battery) and it was bad

@kirkb4989

2 жыл бұрын

It does not "destroy" the circuit, it just shuts off the mosfets so no additional power can be drained by the tool.

@Morberis

2 жыл бұрын

On these batteries unless its something serious the IC bricks itself after 3 failed charge attempts. Good luck for anyone trying to hack these and unlock them. Tons of talented people have tried but Milwaukee has put lots of money into making them unfixable. However what you can do is get a new grey market board if you've charged the cells. This bricking behavior is why if it flashes red and green due to low charge it's important not to attempt again but to manually charge it back up. All of this is pretty readily available info.

The safety issue with charging cells that have gone that flat is simple. They need reforming. You can do that by charging them @50mA per cell up to a voltage of 2.6 and keep them there awhile. That should recondition the cells adequately enough. The board and it's components may be another story entirely. If it has a fault lockout like other commenters have mentioned it could be completely rooted. The real acid test for the cells is to charge them and see if they keep it without self discharge over a reasonable amount of time.

Protip when using continuity in-circuit: Always check both ways. Your meter uses voltage to check for continuity. However, the circuit may have voltages across two points that will provide a false reading. I learned this fairly quickly when doing car fuses. All fuses read perfectly, including blown ones, until out of circuit.

Always happy to make some time to relax and watch Vince play with dangerous things!

I have worked with a lot of failed 18/36v batteries. I normally use a current limited supply across the whole battery set to the equivalent of 2.5v per cell and the current limit at 50ma per cell (150ma for 3 in parallel). Usually find most of the cells quickly (mins not hrs) rise to 2.5v if they haven't leaked and started rusting out. I find the bms is often the problem or is deliberately blocking re-use due to past excessive discharge. I end up discarding typically one bank per battery at most.

I really enjoy your warts and all videos on repair strategies. It's always entertaining. I really enjoy the dépistage and admire how you refuse to quit

Hi there my name's TheCod3r from your mate TheCod3r dcom and in this comment today is another comment telling you to keep up the great work! Looking forward to this one

Well this way by far one of your most risky and dangerous trying to fix videos

Usually in this case, when you don't know the capacitor value, I would look up a nearest ic's datasheet.

I had a similar problem with the Hikoki BSL 36/18 battery. All the cells are working, but the Mainboard is faulty. I found a temporary solution to my drill working with a faulty battery. I broke off the external, control contact near the negative terminal of the battery. Charging with current from the original charger is no longer possible, but I charge it with a laboratory charger and make sure that no pair of cells exceeds 4.2V. Care should also be taken that the battery does not discharge below 2.5 V/cell during use. This is only a temporary solution until I get new electronics. You should know that Li-Ion technology is very dangerous and if you do not have basic knowledge, it is better not to mess with a defective battery! Greetings from Switzerland

If I was a company that doesn't want its equipment go up in flames, I'd put protection onto the controller board, that triggers when something goes wrong. You'll probably have to reset that for the charger to work again.

The black burnt thing you IPAed off was the bug- a worm or slug. Cant check resistance on a battery as it is a power source and will screw up the resistance measurement. The sets of parallel batteries ALTERNATE polarity - think batteries end to end like in a flashlight except in this case back and forth. Recharging fully discharged lithium cells is NOT unsafe (I've recharged HUNDREDS of fully discharged cells and lipos), the full discharge just reduces battery capacity sometimes all the way down to NO capacity.. The dangerous thing you did was to REVERSE POLARITY most of the other parallel sets. The way I rescue packs is to use a TP4056 and charge each parallel bank slowly. Your cells are probably around 4Ah and when in parallel (by threes) will be 4Ah x 3 or 12Ah and charging lithium batteries is safe at up to 1C so 12Amps per bank. Really safe at 1A of the TP4052 charger.

Unfortunately you cannot measure the resistance of a power source like a battery with your ohm meter. As it uses voltage to determine the resistance, it will read wrong if there is voltage.

I hate to chime in so late my friend, but I couldn't help notice the fuse was possibly the cause of the scorching. A damaged trace was loose and all the solder appeared to have vapourized.Thrown off by the continuity test you did as I have been many times. Funny that the fuse didn't blow from whatever the cause. Not that the resoldering of that fuse would solve the problem of course, but I bet the board would come to life for a better prognosis. These HD12 are very expensive. I have one on my bench that reads 17V all groups of 3 are in at 3.36V and yet the first LED blinks 8 times. I have not been able to find any damage to the board. Going to have a much closer look at the PCB and all. Here in Canada these cost $379 CAD

33:15 never thought about that, only 3 out of all of those batteries, kinda thought all went bad at same time. 👍 Good info

@Mymatevince

2 жыл бұрын

Very strange how 3 survived. Cheers Paul 👍

Been waiting for some new Vince to watch whilst I'm stuck on isolation!!

If the batteries are below 1v you need to take them out of the casing remove the welds. Then individually charge them at low amperage. Start with 100mil amp. until they get to 2.25v. then they will charge normally. I then wait a week after fully charged to see if the lose voltage. Any that drop below 4v after a week i get rid of and replace. Batteries that are deep drained can be renewed. Using you bench power supply. Once the get passed 2.25v you can up the amperage to .5amps. I have never had issues with Lithium cells. Its just a case of making sure the cells when in series and parallel are balanced. When you put them back in the pack they will self balance when in situ but most pack have a balancing control unit on the battery back. Just need to find a similar capacity and test the drain time.

I always get enjoyment from your videos, thanks again, Dave

Another great video Vince. Love your content ! Pity this one didnt result in a fix, but well done for trying ! Have Fun !

Looks like this pack is built similarly to a laptop battery. Those battery controller ICs will disable themselves as soon as the cell voltage (even on one single cell) goes too low. They can be reset, but it's not a trivial thing to do. Interestingly, I've encountered exactly the same situation when salvaging cells from a very old (~20 years) Dell battery. Out of 3 banks, one was OK (even had OK capacity), other two were totally shorted. Well, at least now you have some good quality Samsung cells which most likely can still be charged individually. I've charged dead (close to 0 V) cells before - those with at least some trace voltage present usually will still take a charge. I would charge them at low current and watch out for them while charging to make sure they aren't getting hot. I would also check for self-discharge some time after charging. Expect capacity to be degraded. I would not risk charging cells with totally 0V on them though as they can be (and usually are) internally shorted.

I know there are Makita knock-off BMSs. Maybe there's a possibility of finding one for this, or, a generic BMS that you can hookup that will prevent over discharge and over charging. You would still have to charge it with your bench power supply, but, you would have protection for the battery pack. You could even have a battery indicator with a pushbutton to check power level.

Buy a cheap used 2ah battery and swap out the circuit board, or even a cheap clone battery and use that circuit board. It would certainly be interesting to see if you can get it working. Great vid, really enjoyed it.

@TranTek

2 жыл бұрын

You can’t swap a 2ah, they use different bms only the high output 6 and 8ah use the same bms 2ah and 5ah have different bms

@marklawrence5635

Жыл бұрын

They also use the new 21000 cells instead of the older type 18950 cells so different boards used to deal with the faster charging and 50% higher output power 🔋

Being not an expert in this field of electronics, but have to admire the perseverance. Sorry it didn't work out after all those expenses.

Great video Vince =D I think you're right regards the cap being the initial fault. Cells then drained, some more than others =/ That cap size, it may be 100nF, could also be 1uF, or 10uF maybe? Likely won't make much difference I think. Either side of that area where what looked like 2 mosfets, maybe one of those had failed too? Regards desoldering batteries etc - the time they are most dangerous is when they have charge, that's where the explosive energy is, although chemical reactions can create energy too. So when dealing with a battery where its almost completely flat, there's a lot less chance of a major runaway reaction. The risk is when charging, or draining high current (or puncturing / heating a battery with charge). You might be able to get a 3rd party charge circuit for that - mod it to balance charge using a different supply maybe - but probably more hastle than its worth... I certainly wouldn't like a fault to develop in a battery like that, the fire that follows could be quite something with so many cells in such close proximity! What ever you do I wouldn't charge that unattended, although it seems like the batteries are good quality and fairly well balanced!

@Mymatevince

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the advice Chris. I'm hoping it will only need charging once a year to power that work light. If it becomes a regular thing that needs charging, then nerves will get the better of me and I will leave it be. Even when I was charging it then, I was checking for heat build up obsessively every few minutes🤣🤣 It is so complicated and I'm gutted the cap and cells didn't fix it. Thanks Gadget 👍👍👍👍👍

@GadgetUK164

2 жыл бұрын

@@Mymatevince No worries! Did you see comments below from a few people regards a replacement charge board =O

@Mymatevince

2 жыл бұрын

I did Chris, they are on there way from China 👍👍

You are priceless! You need to start a don’t try this at home channel ! Starts with : Not sure if this is going to work??? Buys the 12 amp hr battery! Buys the cheapest Milwaukee light ! Doesn’t own any other Milwaukee tools ! Complains how expensive they are ! Has his wedding ring on oblivious to the fact he could accidentally weld his finger to battery ! You remind me of my old School teacher ! Mr. Arnold ! Of course Students remember him as just Arnie !

I don't know if someone has already commented on this, but you cannot test for a short on a battery with a multi meter, try it with a known good battery and you will see for your self. The above is also true for internal battery resistance.

I just bought myself a nice new set of Makita LXT tools (SDS, Combi Drill, Screw Gun, Angle Grinder and Circular Saw) and I was gobsmacked. £120 for a battery and charger and they don't even come with the tools. Really is unbelievable how much they can charge for a few basic 18650s

With the Milwaukee I've heard that the rapid charger won't charge a battery if it gets too low the regular slower charger will that's why they run deals to get all the batteries sold about twice a year so they don't die on the shelves

Great video buddy, was hooked watching this, well waiting for the “BANG” haha, unlucky though, was a great effort

Defiantly worth getting a battery welder, even just a small portable one as they are so much easier to use with these cells. Have you thought of just getting another 3P 5S BMS to manage the charging? It wont do all the LED's but may let you charge from the Milwaulkee charger

@TranTek

2 жыл бұрын

You would need a k welder with supercaps or else you can’t weld 0.3mm factory nickel strip

I know some battary protection circuits record data on the battary and if they know the battery is dead they wont let the battery charge, had it on laptops when I try to rebuild the packs

great job ! lots of patience vince .....

Killed it! Good work!

Time to buy a Mini battery spot welder. A lot less chance of heat damage to batteries. Thanks for the Vids Cuzz. Rockford,IL USA

The board is about £5 on eBay. As far as I can tell .. Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮♥️

@cpt_kick_a_hoe_549

2 жыл бұрын

Jesus loves you

There is a little tab underneath one of the (+) terminal on the cell which breaks contact (hence 0.0v). You can stick a small needle under the (+) terminal and reset that breaker. This is not recommended but it is possible for educational purposes.

I call BS on they saying it was a bug. I am an authorized service centre for Milwaukee and I am constantly replacing batteries. I would replace it no question. Only time I do not replace is water damage.

Hi Vince, I learned a lot from this. Thanks for doing the video.

From my previous play with 18650 cells I can say even though it’s not safe I have slow charged single cells at a time on a very slow rate NMHB of .2amps and got cells to come back to life. Your safety aside it did bring the cells back and lasted about 3 years till they finally did not want to hold a charge anymore.

Bug or metal shavings is my theory. A bug is possible because some bugs zap themselves over and over again and cause a huge mess burning up. This looks like bug damage based on how wide the area is and the type of damage. Metal shavings as you can imagine and guess can cause a nasty short too but usually those burn out fast and hard. Edit: noticed the thick board coating, probably not bug damage or shavings.

My father has dozens and dozens of Milwaykee powertools, never used better tools! He even have about 6 Milwaykee radios/loud speakers (which uses these same batteries) and a Milwaykee pool table which he won from some draw :D

@harisyoung4110

Жыл бұрын

Nobody ask you

Use the Jessa Jones cap delete tool an exacto knife!

48:50 I was waiting when the ring makes contact with the batteries and start glowing red hot and leave 'nice' imprint in finger. I must say this guy is much braver than I. I would have taken ring off 'just in case'.

awesome video again Vince well tried :) and in the end it's working :)

try disconnecting the end terminals from the board then add cells a bank at a time starting at the negative end. you need all the cells ready to be monitored once you connect the final positive. every time you connect the BMS in the wrong order - it sees the missing bank as a fault and shuts down again.

@PowerScissor

2 жыл бұрын

Milwaukee M18 boards lock out as soon as you disconnect them. Doesn't really matter what you do after it crosses that low voltage threshold...it will never work again. Maybe a certified Milwaukee repair shop will have a tool to reset them...but for a DIY person Milwaukee screws you.

You can't check batteries for shorts by beeping them out. And batteries are supposed to be shorted, which means they have a low internal resistance.

Excellent video my friend! 👍😊

Isn't that a knockoff? I have 4 of those 12.0 high output batteries and the side labels are very different from that one. Unless they use different stickers for what they ship to the UK?

You may call me crazy, but there was a hack to revive Ryobi LiIon battery, once it dropped below the threshold where the charger would think it was broken. Basically, you'd take a 12v battery charger, set to the 2ah setting and for just a second, tap the positive and negative. It would temp charge the cells to a high enough voltage to go above the threshold and allow to charge normally. Just editing to clarify, you'd tap the charger leads to the battery pack buss positive and negative, not individual cells.

Vince you are a very good man and again i loved that video so much❤️

vince now you have met the proper company get them to sponsor you

Blimey. What a challenge that was. Brave to take apart a lithium battery but at least they are individual cells so you can't puncture them easily by mistake. Being lithium I do think you will lose charge even when not using the torch from natural discharge. So it may need charging sooner than you might think. But for continuous load it will last ages. Probably run that light for many hours. I can see why they're so expensive now given the cost of the cells and the complex circuit. My 1.5mah in my Ryobi kit is tiny in comparison yet still weighs loads. That must be seriously heavy

@Mymatevince

2 жыл бұрын

It was a bit nerve racking, more so with the fully charged cells!!! Yes, it is very heavy. Maybe the work light might not be an option then, time will tell 👍 It's my go to torch of choice right now when I have to do bin and recycling duties late at night, even though it weighs more than the bin/recycling 🤣🤣

You can bump charge them to initiate the ability for a charger to commence a charge cycle . I use a Rc charger for this . Make sure that you keep an eye for heaters ( any heaters remove and discharge / recycle ) But you will be surprised how many cells will work and be close to there full capacity and reusable - allows to sit for 4 weeks to see it they have internal shorts and use common sense !!! Ie do all this outside in a shed @ you own risk

Hi Vince, I'm trying to fix a playstation 4 controller with trace damage and thought to ask you what the product was that you painted onto the plastic pcb that leads to the l1 l2 buttons, and where can I buy some? Thanks for any help

My experience with trying to recover cells is that generally once they go near 0, beyond the safely concerns which I cant speak well too, they tend to keep nearly no charge if you do at all recover them, and likely 90% of the value of this battery pack is the cells. I have fully charged cells that went so low and they would fully self discharged in storage in a week if that.

good job mate.

What a great video, I know its just for entertainment but how interesting. My guess is that it has a bug in it but it wasn't the cause of the fault. To avoid infestation of service facilities its not unusual for companies to just refuse to repair anything with an insect in it. Just a thought. Anyways solid entertainment! Cheers!

@Mymatevince

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Roger 👍👍👍

With lithium batteries, the 100% charge point is usually around 80% or so, and the 0% charge point is usually around 20%

@simonupton-millard

2 жыл бұрын

Depends on the device on my car its 10% minimum and 90% fully charged phones and laptops tend to be 4.2v full 3v when your devices switches off not sure about drills

You need to look at the board for jumper pins. I think you need to reset the board.

Vince get yourself balancer and a a cheap charger.Modify the battery and remove the existing circuitry 👍

Nice video , BMS has tripped 👍👍👍👍 the cap could be 1uf 10 uf

That was a great repair, Vince. Not quite what you wanted, but nonetheless it is working. 👍👍👍👍

I would like to see you fix the board on that battery just because I know you can I enjoy your videos Vince thank you very much

Individual cells can short on the inside, you can replace single cells, you just need to find a way to spot weld them back :)

Ayr is also a seaside town on the west coast of Scotland.

@Jeff44

7 ай бұрын

Indeed it was probably Scots who named it in Aus, just like Perth etc.

Alot of milwaukee tools have a Battery Gauge built into the tool itself. So you could still monitor the battery if you have a tool with gauge built in.

Hey Vince, great video as always. I wanted to ask, what it the blue mat you work on called?

Battery test lights works independently so you can check state of charge before fitting My batteries get hot when charging but never thought it was dangerous Even bought Chinese copies and seem to work well So expensive torch next revisit you will have reworked a charge jack plug within ? saves you stripping it down again to charge .. even a fly lead ?

Hi watch all your videos with great interest just to help you out a you tuber called Andy mechanic has previously done some videos on repairing milwaukee batteries and he had to replace the circuit board after he replaced the damaged cells in the battery. Keep up the fantastic educational videos.

Watching Vince soldering on that pack of lithium cells was a bit like watching someone defusing a landmine.

I love how a flashlight is called a torch?

I only know this because I had a battery go bad....i think that board does a little more than us mere mortals think it does. My 20v DeWalt battery went bad and it went flat on each cell. Apparently these new batteries have a safety feature and discharge the battery cells to make for safe disposal. I vape, so I had an 18650 charger, and charged each cell up to around 2.7v and left them sit at 2.7v for about two weeks, then finished charging, and soldered new contacts to rewire everything back up, put everything back together, and I'm still using it to this day lol

Those 18650 cells does have an internal fuse against overcharge, the temperature raises too much It cuts off. You'll ser they have 0 volts. You can get around that putting It on a vice and pressing the plus nipple a little bit so it closes the circuit again. It's dangerous though, it's safer and not expensive replacing those cells. You can be sure something went south with that BMS as It demanded so much current from one or more cell that it fried.

@TheDemoncaller

2 жыл бұрын

first of all those are 21700 batteries, and second no they dont ave any internal protections on them hence the reason they are prone to bursting into flames when they fail. he even pulls the spec sheet up on them in the video and you can clearly see where it says that there is NO protection on these cells

You can charge the battery straight from the 2 posts on top for a few minutes to wake up the cells , I usually use another 18v battery with alligator clips and then put it on the charger and it'll charge right up

I use my bench power supply to boost lithium batteries. Normally I set it for 1A 4V and this sometimes brings those cells to life. And that's a 10 uF ceramic SMD capacitor.

Well Done Vince I found that video very Interesting as I have lots of Milwaukie power tools which in my opinion are the best tools you can buy, even better than the over priced and over rated Snap-on. Must get myself one of those 12 ah batteries as they are an absolute beast lol. Keep up the good work. Mike 👍👏🍻

Need an iron (not aluminium) bucket with some sand in it and some flameproof gloves when working around lithium cells so if anything ignites you can quickly put the battery/ies in the bucket and take it outside where it/they can burn themselves out. Can't put Lithium batteries out once they start burning. They don't need oxygen, they provide their own.

You could probably buy a used battery with worn out/dead cells on ebay and use the PCB with that on your new cells.

It was crazy watching this guy tapping the top of that battery circuit board with that ring on his finger...

I've run across problems using this type of battery with individual cells and with multiple cell battery packs in both usage and charging. In the case of your pack, each battery cell has a potential maximum voltage of 4.2 volts with a capacity of 4.0 Ahr or 4000 mAH per cell, so 3 cells in a parallel circuit = 4.2 volts @ 12 AHr or 12000 mAH. Now put 5 groups of 3 cells parallel per group in a series circuit and you end up with a maximum of 21 volts @ 12 AHr or 12000mAH @ full charge at peak battery life. I believe the industry standard minimum safe working voltage of that type of battery is 3.5 volts so the pack is considered discharged at 18 volts. The circuit board for that battery pack is likely designed to disallow any charging if the voltage has dropped below 18 volts.

Over priced batteries for power tools … given the cells inside …. Value .. Well done keeping going … Ric Scotland

The board/bms may be damaged after the capacitor issue but the bms may have turned off because of the zero battery voltage. You could try to reactivate the bms. You could try taking a jumper wire and touch it against the positive end of the battery pack before it connects to the board/bms. While holding it in place touch the other end of the jumper wire to the positive output of the board, the positive pin that connects to the charger. Hold it for a second then press the button to see if the bms has woken up. It works with laptop 18650 packs and their bms. If not your probably stuck, 10 out of 10 for effort though. Also if the bms isn't working your light will probably deplete the batteries below their safe 2.5v if you don't keep checking. I won't lie, I was waiting for a bang 😅

The first think I would have done was to hook up another 18v battery (whatever brand I had to hand) and given it a 2 minute jump start. Used this method to revive a dead battery to the point the charger would charge it more than once.

The only way you can measure m-ohms in a battery is with a constant current load load tester across a known ballast resistor and measure voltage drop for multiple current points. Old RC battery equipment could do this for battery matching. Your Ohm meter is just charging the battery. You also need to put the batteries on a trickle charge for hours to get them to around 3v as dead Lion battery is 3.6V, full charged 4.2v. Take them off charge and watch the voltage over time to see if they are holding a charge.

you should be charging at 4.2 volts per cell, at a low current until they come up to 3.2 volts. Then you can charge them like a bank at the 18v charge current. one of the banks may have bad cells as it was shorted. They all likely have degradation from being shorted so long. you can also check individual cell voltages, which is very helpful to identify dead cells. You need to charge each cell to see how much of your capacity you can recover. These may have protection circuits which is why you can't take measurements.

i’ve rebuilt laptop packs with spot welder and it works fine, id invest in a entry level spotwelder if i was you.

@ethanchow9170

2 жыл бұрын

to answer your question id say the cap went out and destroyed the cells. not caused by bugs or abuse to the unit

These batteries reset will reset after putting them on one of the implements like the light if you put it on the charger now it will work proper have done this before

I had this with a craft work battery 18v 5 cells dead so priced up replacement of them worked out cheaper to buy another 18v battery separated all the batteries and rebuilt into my battery pack with everything the same worked perfectly for a bodge job all the spot welds remove and soldered new strips on took a day to do new life in old combi drill/screwdriver. And pcb for this from eBay 11.59

Im exactly 9min in and my brain is screaming; Pleaseee Vince desolder the batterypack before touching any components with the iron!!

Might sound silly but did you check the fuse again after you had done all the work? Maybe have another look at the board and continue to fault find. Might be more than 1 failure

@SupertigerDev

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah I think he should check the board in more detail. He could get it fixed.

Great video 🥰

Wow them batteries where dear nice video made me smile a few times you need to regulate your charge current to about 500ma Set the voltage to 4.2 on lab supply turn current nob down connect battery and rise it up to 3 to 400ma voltage will be low but as it charges it rises.. make a spot welder MOT transformer good donner microwave really good video enjoyed it I'm in 🇬🇧 to ebikes next lol