Every question I have had for making my knives so far has been answered in your videos already, Thank you sir!

Thank you sir!! My son and myself are starting to make knives as hobbyist just for ourselves and your videos are helpful.

Walter you have helped me out so much in my learning process and this video was just what I was looking for in building my first hidden tang Bowie knife. Now I don't feel bad going to Home Depot to get some epoxy but I will now be drilling at least one handle pin now. Your the best most down to earth bladesmith on the internet IMHO sir

Nice video, especially for the home, part time maker. Thank you for taking the time to test and share.

I appreciate your effort on the 2 videos. Systematic and relatively through to get results. The number one for me was having products too long. I was under the impression they would have an indefinite shelf like awaiting mixing. TY again!

Good on you Walter, even if the tests werent so rigourous, the video still helped me understand the different types of force and how they are manifested.

Thanks a lot Walter you're a great help to newbies in knifemaking.

Everyone on KZread could take lessons from you on how to make a tutorial. Very impressive

I know several high-end blade makers who stopped using epoxy. All but one claimed after several failures with epoxy, they now us superglue and they make sure to pein the pins like in the old days. One only uses stabilized wood and either brass or stainless steel pins. He says he's sold over 2000 handmade knives and has never had one fail. Two years ago, he too started to use superglue. Most of his clients are professional sportsmen and 9 have their own TV shows. He started using glue to keep blood and other fluids from between the handle and steel.

Another great and informative video Mr Sorrells.

One thing that helps with epoxy applications like this is to butter both pieces of bread, that is, spread epoxy on both the steel and the handle material prior to mating. The bond is less secure if you depend on transfer of the epoxy from the handle material to the steel. Spread a thin layer on each piece first then press them together.

These are great tests. I learned a lot. Thanks

Great video as well.. thanks for sharing

Great info this will save me a fortune, thanks Walter very much. Happy Trails

I think it would be interesting to see these same tests done on samples that had random holes drilled through the tang and some into the micarta. I might have to try that.

Great objective testing and review.

cool vid,, thanks. Looks like blade bond did very well. have to find me some.

I just started knife making and this helped thanks

Great video! Thanks!

Tests look legit to me. I just started buying to start making knives. I was going to buy some $30 epoxy until I saw this.

Thanks for the info.

I'd love to see those tactical style knives in this video with some shell casing heads embedded in the handles like the rosettes

Very good video

Thanks, this was very helpful!

How about buried pins, where the pins go through the steel but only part way through the scales?

thanks Walter

Thank you. I appreciated this.

I'd be interested to hear if you've tried polyurethane glues (Gorilla Glue etc) - the one-part brown stuff that kicks off with moisture and foams out of joints. It's completely waterproof and is commonly used to glue timber, but I've had good results keying the surface of the metal and then gluing something that contains moisture (wood, leather etc). You have to be careful to mask off and clean up as you go as the foamed adhesive is really hard to clean up, but it sticks like nothing else.

Can we do this again with BSI Mid Cure, BSI Slow Cure, and West Systems G/Flex?! Thanks for your work!!

Helpful to regular guys.

My only wish would be to know if I can straight apply epoxy to a stacked leather knife handle, or does some leather treatment have to be applied before hand?

The cool thing about JB Weld is that it can withstand temperatures from down to -67F to well above 200F and is WATERPROOF when cured. So even though it would probably suck as the sole means of attaching scales to a knife, used in conjunction with pins it should perform well. Your joints better be tight though if you're using a light colored handle material because it dries dark gray.

@richardharris5336

7 жыл бұрын

Are you sure this one dries dark grey? It's marketed as the 'clear' one, whereas there is another formula (8265), which states it sets grey. Either way, thanks for the recommendation on it being waterproof, I think this is what I'll be using for the kitchen knife I'm making myself.

HA! Loved the concrete test! Side note - the riff in between scenes is rather loud, any way you can tone it down a little bit in later episodes?

thank you for this video I know it is an old viedo but if somone knows, it is okay to use epoxy that is not food grade right ? because it is only inside

Great info. I’m just getting my feet wet in knife making. Right I have prefabricate blades. I’m just adding my own handles and shaping them.

.nice test! ..i drill some dozens of microholes into the mycarta (or hardwood) with different angles at 45° .. and lot holes through the steel.. so the glue has a structure like crooked nails in the handles.. that grabs so hard, i can hit my knifehandles with a hammer without any screw.. found no way to get it off till now.. i use UHU endfest 300, you can bake it at 180° Celsius in the oven and it gets even stronger.. made in germany ;) cheers

@insantonua

6 жыл бұрын

huh, I was wondering about the endfest stuff, nice will try that

I'm really curious, what about hobbyist epoxies? Those intended for R/C planes and boats. They're usually meant to be immune to water oil and vibration and 30 minute versions are pretty easy to find in a general hobby shop.

I have some experience with surface prepping metal. I do a lot of anodizing and something called the "water break test" is a key thing for that and will make or break a good anodizing job. Now, of course anodizing is not the same as glueing scales on a knife but the similarity here that is applicable is surface prep. If water beads up on the surface of the metal, there are still oils present on the metal. Oil is not your friend in this case. So you can try solvents to clean a surface but solvents just dilute the oil and will still leave a microscopic layer of oil behind. Take a piece of metal you think is clean and spray some water on it and if the water beads up, there is still oil. If the water "sheets" on the metal and does not bead up, you have clean metal with no oil. You will know what I'm talking about once you see it. So the way I have found works best is two things depending on the metal and situation. Comet household cleaner and lye (sodium hydroxide), NOT mixed, just one or the other. Comet work well for steel or aluminum and lye works well for aluminum but I have not tried it on steel. When using lye, you just dip the metal for a few seconds at a time in a solution of about 5% lye and check for water break, keep dipping and spraying with water until the water does not bead up anymore. If using comet, you rub the surface with a little Comet and water and check for water break. Comet is a bit safer to work with that lye. Read the warnings on this stuff because its nasty stuff. The reason these substances are superior to solvents is that they actually oxidize and break down the oils and not just dilute them. These substances take way less time to get an oil free surface and do a much better job than solvents can ever do. I think for steel and epoxying scales, I would try Comet. It's the bleach in the Comet that breaks down the oils so make sure the label says it has bleach in it. You might be able to use household bleach but I have never tried that. Give it a try, you will be happy you did.

@insantonua

6 жыл бұрын

why not just use hydrogen peroxide?

Hello, I've heard that West System Epoxy Resin 105/206 Slow would be good for knife making.?

Did you test BSI 30min Epoxy? if so, how does it holded up?

One thing I discovered a long time ago on a knife handle I had to re do, (because I ground too deep when shaping) is you can't just glue up that perfectly flat shiny face of micarta to the steel, or another piece of micarta. It is just too smooth to provide enough mechanical hold. I drove the pins out with a punch and all it took was a few light blows with an 8 oz hammer and brass drift to knock it loose. I started roughing the glue surface fairly aggressively ever since. I used to grind the surface with a 36 grit belt. Now I use a center cutting end mill and shave off about 0.020 off the surface. when I glue micarta to steel I have to use a wood chisel to separate them. When I glue micarta to micarta in a mortised tang handle the micarta fails before the glue.

@anitaolmo4392

6 жыл бұрын

God of Thunder olmo

People in my country recommend UHU 300 plus. Supposedly "good enough". Gonna test it soon.

hey walter ive been getting into making machetes i would really like to know which kind of steel would work for such a blade. i tend to use 1/8 '' steel and im thinking using steels such as o1, 1095, 1084 and even 52100

@aslob9321

5 жыл бұрын

oliver grundtworm jensen + All of those would work fine.

35 LBS → 35 / 2.2046 = 15.88Kg (Kg are the SI unit of mass- lbs must be converted) 9.8 meters/second squared is the acceleration Force = Mass x Acceleration (force equation) Earths gravitational force is around 9.8 m/s squared and gravity is, for simplicity sake, the only major force acting on the weight. Drag plays a part in this but not enough to really matter in such a small scale test. Force = 15.88Kg x 9.8M/S squared >>>>>>>155.624 Newtons of force acting on the micarta bond.

@ponderingturtle2720

9 жыл бұрын

Not exactly. That will tell you how much energy the mass has but not the force exerted. That will depend greatly on the elasticity of the cord used for example. Energy is also force times distance so over how far the force was exerted matters a great deal.

@blackeagle2314

9 жыл бұрын

Dan Rice I'm going off my 9th grade physics knowledge which i learned this past year. in the video, he said something along the lines of "some force i really don't know" or something like that. the equation for force is F=M x A, F being Force, M being mass (kg/lbs), and A being Acceleration. I did state in my original post that there were other forces in play but they don't have a big effect as this is a small scale test. i have not idea what the other equation is though, the one for force exerted after falling a distance, Care to fill in the blanks?

@blackeagle2314

9 жыл бұрын

Mark D That makes sense. Thanks for clearing that up :)

How about using construction grade adhesive?

Ill have to test blade bond vs g flex 650.

Ill have to test blade bond against g flex 650. I have liked g flex so far on my blades.

@schmidtforge1946

7 жыл бұрын

that would be the ultimate test

So far I've been really impressed with j flex epoxy from west system, great stuff, but about twice the price of others. If any ody is looking to do a "pinless" handle, they could to hidden pins, its a great middle of the road.

@lsubslimed

9 жыл бұрын

Jacob Aaron G-Flex* An easy way to get confused when you use that and those klingspor belts ;)

Hey Walter, I bet your neighbors are like: "he's off throwing things in the air at the park again"

I was disappointed about the results of the JB Weld (Clear) considering I have had so much success over the last 20 years with the original JB Weld (dark gray). From the labels, the Clear is supposed to be even stronger than the Gray too. Really enjoying your Channel and Videos!

@lhill5633

9 жыл бұрын

+Bobby W I believe he was using the 5 min kind. In my experience, that fast curing stuff no matter what the brand, is garbage.

Some kinds of epoxy got the elastic abilities. What about them?

I see you like Kershaw knives Mr. Sorrells.

It's no surprise the purpose made epoxies did better than the Multi-purpose ones.

trust me that weight rig is not far off a "fancy" scientific load used in some of the best scientific labs. I speak from experience

soo i was about to do handle without pins with 5 min epoxy..... guess you helped

If you changed the title of this video to "KNIFE SCIENCE TEST: Greatest Expoxies Ever Tested" you'd get a million views

The footage of you tossing the samples looks like a homeless man that has just lost it xD Made me laugh.

Hey neighbor, I believe that is not quite how knife throwing works..

Ne impacti ya, mutfak bıçağını yere atıp durarak ne yapacaksın ki? Derdin ne acep amca?

Project farm 2.0

Like you can't afford everything!