This is pure awesomeness. Just finished flashing mine with an arduino nano. All you need to do is add 10k pullup resistors between +3.3V and SCL and SDA. Thank You for the content and giving me courage to follow through.

I have just done this hack in 2023 - it's awesome. Here is what you need to know: To get the unit to serial dump and program, you need to power the meter power ON, and select the 2A dial position, otherwise you will see / have no serial dump. The .ino file you need is on PAGE 7. Not Page 8. After I worked this out, everything worked great.

Came across this whilst researching this meter so thanks for showing how to do this visually - I may well give it a go when I get one! The main change for me would be defaulting to DC Amps :)

@PowerOn-

5 жыл бұрын

Yes, it's not a bad little meter...l hope you like it.

I have the same meter, pretty good mods there. I was also suffering from a loose selection wheel, the device would change modes all the time... just cleaning the contacts on the PCB fixed it for me. Great value this device.

@Herny-Orozco

Жыл бұрын

Amigo, dios lo bendiga. Por qué estaba floja la rueda de selección? Cual contactos limpió?

@benbaselet2026

Жыл бұрын

@@Herny-Orozco Ei kai siihen muuta voi sanoa kun että onnea valitsemallanne tiellä. Ja eteen päin!

Needed a DC clamp meter for occasional use at work, didn't want to spend the big bucks on a fluke when I don't need the safety for 24v DC, awesome, thanks!

@PowerOn-

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment Jamie. The Unit-e are not a bad budget choice these days.

Thanks for posting this. I give you a thumbs up and have subscribed to your channel.

@PowerOn-

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks Joseph. Your support is much appreciated.

I purchased on of these units on E-Bay. About day 4 I figured out the unit had serious issues. The 100A function was working fine but the 2A and 20A would not go into Amperage Mode. Just Beeped contentiously. Contacted the Seller and they sent me a Replacement Unit after showing them photo's of the situation as best I could. Never asked for the Return of the defective unit. Guess I'll give this a go and see if I can in fact get it working correctly. Unit works fine other then not in the 2A and 20A modes that I would be using the most. What I have I to loose ? I do in fact have everything on hand to do the task but not so confident in my abilities to get the code right ? LOL Re-flashing may or may not correct the situation. After watching this a few more times I'm more then sure I would Botch this up... Crap.

@Simon Jowett I know it's an old video, but could you add Arduino program listing? It would be great to have it with all the mods you made. Cheers!

Shit that's clever. How on Earth do you find this stuff out? I never thought this possible with an Arduino, much less knowing what all those EPROM variables even relate to. This just blew my mind.

@PowerOn-

5 жыл бұрын

Sorry for the late reply. I'm not sure how I came across this hack..... probably as a result of sitting in front of the computer too much 😂

Well cool video buddy!

@PowerOn-

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the positive feedback Terry.

Is your arduino sketch available for download anywhere?

I have everything at hand to do this but I'm more then sure I would botch up altering the Hex code. My brain just does not handle that stuff so well.

Great videohack I dont got an arduino only a bunch of those seriel to USB but quite an old meter. seems to be from 2014 and it almost cost more now 40USD then the 35bucks back at 2014 as here of 2019 and 5 years later and with your expertise and if one should pick up a clamp AC and DC meter in today's market.. is there any model that stands out at sub 100 USD..I have looked at the UT210E 38USD and the more expensive UT216D to 93USD and some other brands like NK260C to 39USD but literally In no mans land when it comes to these clamp meters and which does what, as they often not that nice to list their specs and which are centered at the clamp and which are centered at the leads and which can handle DC also on the clamp...

I just got one and was kind of annoyed that it defaulted to AC, since 90% of what I do is DC. I'm so happy I can change that!

@PowerOn-

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, the DC functions are the most used

@james10739

Жыл бұрын

Same have been thinking about doing that and the counts thing and the back light if it's an option because it feels like it's 5 seconds but I'm sure it's not more than 15

what ever you did it worked fine job

I never been able to extract the factory informations before reprogramming. I had nothing when i pressed serial monitor, like at 9:27 I try multiples times with no result...But I decided to reprogram it anyway, I changed the 78 and 97, removed the // and follow the rest of the instructions. When I pressed serial monitor with the meter on and the capacitor grounded I finally had a result, i think it work. I made a copy and paste of the result in a notepad just in case. I thought the code would be the same but my meter have not exactly the same code as your. also a 7:51 the picture said 5V, but you use 3.3V. 3.3V work

Thanks for showing, question is this the DM0660 version? I don't find anything explaining the difference to the 1106EN model.

@PowerOn-

4 жыл бұрын

Sorry I don't know the answer to your question. I do understand that there are several very similar models around though.

@MatteoMi

3 жыл бұрын

They both work the same way for what concerns pins and programming, see github.com/bdlow/UT210E

hi, first of all thanks for your video. There is an unclear part, when you wire it up you have your "wiringdiagram" where you vcc to 5v, a bit later you show your wireing (perfect for checking) and there you are talking something about 3.3v, so better taking the 3.3v?

@mianuskanal6387

5 жыл бұрын

I was successful with 3.3v. Nice tool for the price now :)

@jeremyp7293

3 жыл бұрын

I tried with 3.3v and it worked

It would be nice if you could link the .ino file directly, for completeness. Is it the exact same linked on page 8 of the EEVBlog? Just modified it with calibration data read from your particular eeprom, right?

@PowerOn-

5 жыл бұрын

Given that the hack was not my own work, I felt it was more appropriate that I linked to the blog post (yes the .ino on page 8 is the one I used). The blog post is quite a long one and it's often difficult to work out what is the 'latest' information as old posts are edited and updated. Definitely take a copy of your EEprom first! Tanks for your comment though, I'll update the video description to help.

@AlexWhittemore

5 жыл бұрын

@@PowerOn- FYI it looks like the arduino sketch is actually attached on page 7.

Could this be the same hardware as the ut211b? They look the same but the later one is 6000 counts and has frequency as well. Coll feautre on the ut211b is the resolution of 0.1ma

@PowerOn-

5 жыл бұрын

Quite possible that you are right. I have heard that there are several variants of the meter.

@mariogomes9009

5 жыл бұрын

@@PowerOn- thank you for your answer. Do you know what the upper limit is now with the 6000 counts upgrade? Is it still at 100A? The ut211b is only 60A.

File the arduino uno , please

anyone knows if this can mesure frequency?

hi!! i copy your code several time and i keep getting same error on Wire.begin( ) ; not a declared code would be possible to get the code from you?

@PowerOn-

4 жыл бұрын

the 1st line of the code is the 'include' statement #include this should make the code include the wire library.....

@veracubamotorcycleelectric7187

4 жыл бұрын

THIS IS WHAT I GOT void setup() { Serial. begin(9600); Wire.begin(); Serial. print(" ..Before EEPROM... "); dumpEEPROM(); delay(10); //MODeepprom(); delay(10); Serial. print(" ..After EEPROM... "); dumpEEPROM(); } void loop() {} void dumpEEPROM() {

@szevlin

4 жыл бұрын

here is the full code www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/?action=dlattach;attach=264564;PHPSESSID=1qmgclmq3k9k299gfmsh15mht1 or see it on the bottom of page 7 www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/150/

Can´t find the file! Help please

good mod though! so if the ut210e can manage 6000 count, why dont they give it to us?

@PowerOn-

5 жыл бұрын

Hi Ray. Using the same parts for different models keep prices down for the manufacturer, then they create product differentiation with changes to software. Thaks for watching 😀

Nine one , thanks.

@PowerOn-

4 жыл бұрын

No problem. Thanks for the feedback.

I notice that you have had the PCB out and installed the three buttons backwards. The "select" button should be blue, and the "hold" button yellow.

@PowerOn-

2 жыл бұрын

Whoops. Well spotted.

elo sir, can u do for 210D?

@SpyderBDM

6 ай бұрын

Hey, I did this with a UT210D yesterday. Can tell you the differences if you want. Very similar though. Can send you my modified version of the Arduino script being used too, or tell you what to change.

Won't it cause other issues cuz as far as i know the internal chips and circuitry must be able to decode such data. This being a 2000 count meter would have a 2000 count chip as well don't you agree?

@PowerOn-

4 жыл бұрын

Check out the link in the video description for an explanation - basically its capable of 6000 counts.

You had me confused because you'd switched the blue and yellow button 😆

i desoldered the EEPROM to reprogramm it :D

@PowerOn-

3 жыл бұрын

Very brave. Well done!

I did this with a UT210D, but worked out my own mods. ROM is 1024 words instead of 256, but Uni-T just repeated the first 256 words four times. It was extremely similar to the data of the UT210E. I was able to dump the ROM and write my changes back to it, but sadly fried the main chip by following the diagram. Was so excited about doing the mod that I didn’t think about what I was doing. Applying 5V (as shown in the diagram) to a device which runs off of 3V was a bad idea. Obvious in hindsight. The EEPROM handled the voltage fine, but the main chip made a little popping sound as soon as I grounded it through my UNO. The meter never turned on again. 😢 Maybe the person who made that diagram read and flashed the EEPROM with it out of the meter? I didn’t power the meter either as the breakout pads for the EEPROM power the entire board, so I don’t think that’s necessary….or maybe that was where I went wrong. Who knows? Now I’m debating whether to buy a UT210E and attempt this again, or bite the bullet and just buy the UT211B instead.

Is that to assume it could go to 600 amps also

@james10739

3 жыл бұрын

I did not

@james10739

3 жыл бұрын

But I did just order one the other day so if I do decide to go thru with this I'll try to let you know

@benbaselet2026

2 жыл бұрын

@@james10739 Well did you?

Clamp do not measure AC voltage and current and NFC. The indicator shows [OL]. What is this fault?

Instead of mucking about with soldering pins, shorting lead to ground etc... I just purchased a ch3041a USB serial chip programmer and a clip... Clip, program, done :)

@PowerOn-

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Michael - post a link if you can. Thanks so much for the comment.

@speekergeek

4 жыл бұрын

@@PowerOn- kzread.info/dash/bejne/mIxhqMqqabWapbw.html That should be it

The capacitor www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/?action=dlattach;attach=258345;image

Arduino file is in page 7, post from "Flywheelz" where he describes how he did it. Just a quick tip since i've spend 15 minutes trying to find file on page 8 :D

@cekpi7

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks, without you i wouldn't found out about this. I flashed it with Uno clone and it works fine.

Dotless mode is stupid. PS. you DONT NEED batteries to program eeprom. Arduino is enough.

@PowerOn-

5 жыл бұрын

You don't have to invoke all the changes...just choose the ones you do like....thanks for the comment though.

2:17 Let's also talk about OL for a second and WHAT IT DOESN'T MEAN it DOES NOT Mean Over load it Does mean OVER LIMIT what that means is.... - When each multimeter is manufactured it has a range of lmits you can test between - it has an upper limit and lower limit - When you exceed the limit OL will be displayed it is for all intensive purpose the thing that is displayed to say I CAN'T DISPLAY THAT FIGURE OR QUANTIFY IT BECAUSE IT IS OUT OF MY RANGE OR ABILITY Some say OUT OF LMIIT (Which is also correct) Some call it Open loop (which is not correct but only applies when measuring Resistance) Let's also keep in mind that OL is not just for Resistance mode but for all modes therefore IT DOES NOT MEAN OPEN LOOP IT DOES NOT MEAN OVER LOAD It has nothing to do with Load to begin with it has to do with supported range of measurements and limitations that it has that's why it is OUT OF LMIT or OVER LIMIT (although OVER limit can be argued because it can also appear below specified limits) so the word OVER doesn't always apply but it does in say 99% of cases

Used my few months old UNI-T 210D once last year. This year it does not read DC volts which is basically why it was bought. My Fluke meter is donkeys years old but I need a clamp meter now and again. I am annoyed and disappointed. This was a waste of money.

@PowerOn-

2 жыл бұрын

I too have a trusty Fluke from the 1980's. It's still going strong. My Uni-t is showing some signs of age already, I think the rotary dial contacts are not as good as they were. I also have another meter, a Brymen and that complains about bad calibration data for the capacitance setting. Ho hum, built in obsolescence (or just poor quality manufacturing), you take your pick!

@michaelhall7921

2 жыл бұрын

@@PowerOn- Just chucked the crap tool in the bin yesterday. Many good tools are manufactured in China and are cheap but some are abysmal. used once and then caput is bad and no chance whatsoever of recompense.

you have too much time on your hands