🖖😎👍Very cool and very nicely wonderfully well done in every detail way shape and form and painting and very nicely greatly well lit up as well and very beautifully looking indeed, A job very fabulously well done indeed Sir!👌.

Always liked this ship’s design It’s a throw back to the Constitution Class Nice work 😎👍

For the nav marker lights just scrape off the paint then paint some transluscent red, green and yellow on them. They won’t blink but you’ll still have nav marker lights.

Also, I 100% agree with you about the grills on the Nacelles!!

Awesome!

I used the tamiya blue paints on an older model version of the Enterprise C. It was more colorful and somewhat darker, bit looked alright! I used fiber optics, it was work intensive but worth it!

I just picked this up I had no idea it was a new release and I'm so glad for it! Hoping they'll do a D and/or E like this. Especially the D since finding a clear one is like looking for a needle in a haystack while the haystack is moving

You do impressive work! Thank you for the video!

Looks really good! I think when I try this model, I’ll wait for Lou’s Aztec masks to restock, cause I really want to get that paint pattern right without using a knife. I really want to see the Enterprise-D and -E re-released in the same translucent plastic.

@slighter

Жыл бұрын

I second that about the rerelease of the kits.

@michaelbenjmitchell1

3 ай бұрын

@Airius84329 Ask and thou shalt receive.

@michaelbenjmitchell1

3 ай бұрын

@@slighter When Boyd Crompton at Trekworks did his original release Enterprise E that was molded in the same white plastic as the USS Excelsior he lit his up without drilling out the windows on the ship. I saw the videos and his results looked awesome.

Very nice, I like your color choices. One thing I see a lot though, including on yours is that people neglect to paint the cowling around the deflector dish. The deflector and cowling were cast as one piece in that clear blue plastic, but the outer rim should be painted solid gray. It's not supposed to be clear blue right to the edge. Any photo I've seen of the studio models show the cowling to be close to the darker gray color of the grills on the neck.

Nice job. Never was a fan of the ridiculous paint job on the C. I like the subdued pattern you did

Looks great. Although i think i liked the darker blue on the saucer. I loke the contrast with the daker color. After seeing your build i think im going to pick this one up.

Tamiya do a white making tape that is designed specifically for curves... must better than using the standard yellow stuff IMHO. For example, Tamiya 5mm 87179 masking tape for curves allows for masking off smooth curves without wrinkles.

Great job almost didnt want u to put the battle damage

The white around the battle damaged decals is stark. Just spray some clear smoke around them and make some streaks to create carbon scoring effects. Also your darker blue mix looks like a dead match for the box photos.

Nice build! Thanks for sharing. 🇨🇦😎

Awesome video I'd like to see How you would tackle the enterprise D

Very nice work. Awesome ship! 👌

The translucent plastic really works for the windows. I think you are correct: the navigational lights probably would be very easy to do by just masking them, maybe using a little clear paint on the top.

Maybe it's worth mentioning that most of the penants you put on the ship are actually meant for the Yamaguchi. Mainly the penants on the top of the nacelles and the bottom of the secondary hull. Basically everything with a TNG-Badge does not belong on the C. The penant on the side of the secondary also need to be trimmed. I think the instructions on the box are not very clear about that.

You should lightly Airbrush Spray some Black around the Battle Damage Decals that way the Battle Damage won't look so Clean.

Nice work, I'm preparing to build this kit myself and you have given me some good ideas for how I'm going to light it. I don't have any white LED strips but i have a lot of pre-wired single LED bulbs so, my lighting rig may be somewhat different. It will only be the 2nd ship I have lighted, and due to a severely limited budget I'm mostly working with the left over LEDs from my DS9 build. how hard would it be to use colored LEDs in the nacelles and fabricate a divider to keep the red light from the domes and the Blue light from the warp coils separate?

Nice job I learned the lighting have you done the enterprise D yet

Wouldn’t some of the battle damage have some light bleed becuz of forcefeilds and even decks with power and battle damage the ship would be red or yellow alert very least

Is there some logic to the white outlines on the battle damage decals? They're so dark I don't know why they needed to be white-backed at all. Plus if they weren't white-backed, you could maybe scrape some paint off under them and get a bit of glow in the blue parts.

has anyone tried to replicate the brassy look when the lights are off that you see on the filming manager? I was thinking about trying to do a wash of some kind of brass paint. thoughts?

I'm trying to order a base, before the kit arrives, what size rod does it take? 8 mm?

Nice Build! I did notice that you put many decals on the model that are not meant for the Enterprise-C but for the Yamaguchi and so I wanted to ask if that is mistake by the R2 Guide.

@OurayMountainModels

Жыл бұрын

Which are for the Yamaguchi? I don’t think any that I put on were called out for the Yamaguchi. The decals are labeled a and b for the two ships, but the only ones I saw labeled like that were the actual names and numbers.

@OurayMountainModels

Жыл бұрын

At 14:04 you can see the instructions. if the small red ones are not for the enterprise there is nothing saying that.

@MrNBridger

Жыл бұрын

@@OurayMountainModels Unfortunately my post with links got deleted but check ex-astris-scientia. They have a great article about the Ambassador Class and the two studio models of the Enterprise-C and Yamaguchi.

Is this 1/1400 ?

The paint job was great, but I think the damage decals ruined it, especially with that white border. You'd have been better buying photoetch damage detail and using that.

You shouldn't have placed the battle damage decals...it looked better without any of that...