Very good presentation. Thanks for the information. Don

Awesome info, really appreciate the details.

Great vid. 2006 Dakota, 3.7. Ex-FIL's car (Go figure - I got him in the property settlement. LOL) Anyhoo. His thrust bearings are mangled and parts of them were in the pan. He's 84 and started arguing about taking the main bearing caps off to have a look. Carl, this does not have caps. It has a saddle/bed casting. He did not believe me. This vid finally convinced him.

@TreyClanton

6 жыл бұрын

Bob Kontak I’m glad the video was useful to convince him! It is definitely more of a commitment to take off the bed plate to evaluate bearing.

This guy is the Bob Ross of engine rebuilding.

so why dont you put the rear seal in now? thanks, your a great help

Trey, How would (did?) you clean the bed plate mating surfaces (both block and bed plate)? I was told not to use anything that might take even the slightest bit of metal off, so no 3M Roloc wheel for this one (that is what I used for cleaning the cylinder head mating surfaces). It is my understanding that because the crankshaft bearing journals are such tight tolerance, any changes (even extremely slight ones) on the mating surface could alter that tolerance.

@TreyClanton

7 жыл бұрын

Hello Cory! I used a plastic scraper to remove the bulk of any remaining silicone and then lightly clean it with a scotch-brite pad.

Hey Trey, I'm finally doing the build on mine and was wonderingif you actually used RTV sealant like you said in the video? Or the Mopor bedplate sealant? I believe there's an important difference

@TreyClanton

6 жыл бұрын

I used a brand name, hi-temp, RTV. I talked to a Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep technician I know, and he said that either one works equally well. The most important factor is a very clear surface free of nicks or other imperfections.

Is that a flat plane crank ?

Exelent

Just got a remanned motor bc my original 3.7 dropped a valve seat cased serious damage to the head. With the new motor the car won't start, only 3 cylinders firing. The intalling Mechanic ruled out any computer/ignition issues even replaced the key since mine (09 grand cherokee) uses a chip. Our final conclusion is that something could be wrong with the crankshaft or crankshaft position sensor, even though this was replaced. Would love your input since you know the engine components really well. Thank you!

@TreyClanton

2 жыл бұрын

Hello Sir. I would suggest you first remove the crankshaft position sensor and count the teeth on the target wheel. Depending on the year model, it should be 16 or 32 teeth. If it’s the wrong one, it will not run.

@brianhaimchand23

2 жыл бұрын

@@TreyClanton Thank you so much for your reply and information!

im currently working on the same engine, would it be possible for me to buy a copy of the repair manual from you?

Don't you need a seal around that shaft or at least a gasket on the flange?

@TreyClanton

6 жыл бұрын

Bruce Bosco Which shaft are we discussing? The counter rotating balance shaft has a rear cam galley plug(looks like a freeze plug). The front of that shaft dumps into the timing chain area which drains back into the oil pan. There is a front and rear seal for the crankshaft which I cover later in the rebuild.

You needed to check thrust bearings clearance too

Trey, I have 1 Question! Are the Main Cap Bolts a TTY bolt?

@TreyClanton

7 ай бұрын

That’s a great question. Based on what I found out during this rebuild, they are not TTY, but Mopar recommends replacing them over concerns of stretching. If I remember correctly, they only cost $2-$3 each. Not too bad all things considered.

So, I installed the bed plate and torqued everything and when I was done I could no longer turn the crank by hand. I got worried something was wrong so I backed all the bolts out and did it again. I still couldn't turn the crank by hand but could easily turn it with a 3/8 ratchet.is this normal and do you think I caused any harm to the bearings by torquing and retorquing the bolts

@TreyClanton

6 жыл бұрын

Mike Given I doubt you hurt anything. I suspect that your bearings aren’t quite the correct size. Check the back end of the crank and see if there are a series of letters (I think there might be four letters). This means that your motor requires select bearings. You should also try to get some plasti-gauge and check your bearing clearances. I suspect that one or more of the bearings is too tight.

@mikegiven9104

6 жыл бұрын

Trey Clanton , I used plastigauge on the main bearings, the clearances were all around .0015 for all four give or take .0001. I also watched your video on select fit bearings and decided to use the set that came with my rebuild kit. I uploaded a couple photos and a video to my KZread page, if you get a chance and don't mind taking a look I would appreciate it.

Do you know where I can get the bolt pattern to start with the First bolts on the Whole motor And torque specifications

@TreyClanton

3 жыл бұрын

Charles Roberts I purchased an electronic copy of the vehicle service manual on EBay. It cost around $10-15. EBay has cracked down on bootleg copies, so it’s likely more expensive now.

So i too had a similar problem after i finished torquing down the bed plate. I couldn't turn the crank even with a ratchet. I loosened the 8 main bolts and then i was able to turn by ratchet. So i finished torquing again and now it turns more easily by ratchet and i can a little bit by hand. I tried a torque wrench and it takes around 3 foot pounds to turn. Maybe less. Also, i left the sticky wax coating from the machine shop on the whole crank even on the bearing surfaces. I put lube on the surfaces over the wax coating. Would this cause it to turn slightly harder than normal and is this okay? Thanks

@TreyClanton

4 жыл бұрын

Hello Ethan. I would expect it turn fairly easily, but I don't have a measurement for "fairly easily". From your description, I would think you are good. Certainly the antirust coating could cause more drag on the crank. I think that if you installed it correctly, and it turns with only 3 ft-lbs of torque, then move forward. It is your call to make.

@15farcry

4 жыл бұрын

@@TreyClanton Thank you for your input!

I have that same motor in my ram... I'd like to pull the heads and really do some things to make them heavy duty... Is there anything you can recommend... We live in tx as well up in the Austin Area.... I have no issues driving my heads down to that machine shop you recommended.... Also do you have a shop... Can I get you to do my head swap?

@TreyClanton

8 жыл бұрын

Hello! I don't have a shop. I'm just a hobby guy that enjoys rebuilding motors. I would suggest you look around the Austin area for a head rebuild shop that can replace the valve seats and then peen the heads to prevent them from ever coming out. Austin is far enough from Houston to spend the time looking. If you do choose to use D's in Houston, you can probably work a deal to have them shipped. Good luck with it, and holler out if I can help.

@justine6650

8 жыл бұрын

+Trey Clanton is it worth having the heads ported and polished? Also what about better Springs or not worth it?

@TreyClanton

8 жыл бұрын

+Justin E, I'll give you my take, but I would suggest some research on your part. My take is to just rebuild these heads to secure the valve seats better. This engine is limited by too many other things to expect too much from polishing and porting. This would really only be useful with a larger cam. With this being a computer controlled engine, I think the mods list would get real long (and expensive) really fast. If you want more power, you might consider a 4.7 l Dodge from the same era.

@justine6650

8 жыл бұрын

+Trey Clanton ok well thank you I appreciate that... I'll just get them seated..

I took off my bedplate of my 03 liberty and I'm pretty confident there wasn't any rtv sealant of any kind... Did it look like there was on this one?

@TreyClanton

7 жыл бұрын

MMGJ10 Hello. There definately should be RTV sealant between the block and the bedplate. Drop your e-mail address in the comments and I will send you a picture of the RTV bead lay-out recommended by the factory.

@MMGJ10

7 жыл бұрын

Trey Clanton mmgj09@yahoo.com thanks. I'll send you a pic of the bedplate and block. I didn't have oil leaks at all but there isn't any sealant either? Would the factory have rtv'd it? It just doesn't make sense that there isn't any yet it didn't leak.

@MMGJ10

7 жыл бұрын

Trey Clanton Not having any rtv vs having rtv would change bearing clearances? wouldn't it?

@TreyClanton

7 жыл бұрын

MMGJ10 Hello Again! I sent you the picture via e-mail. As you will see in the e-mail, Chrysler recommends Mopar Engine RTV sealant. I have used the Mopar product and other RTV's successfully. Just be sure that the RTV is rated for high temperature oil service. The block/bed plate mating surface is so well machined, that it is not surprising that you would not notice RTV on disassembly. When you torque the bed plate bolts the RTV is mostly displaced except in small imperfections in the surface, so it does not affect the main bearing clearances.

@TreyClanton

7 жыл бұрын

Please let me know if you don't get the e-mail. I can try again.

+Trey Clanton I am also rebuilding one of these 3.7l's and I got the crank in and all of the bed plate bolts torqued and the crank has too much end play. I was wondering what is wrong or what can be done. Thanks.

@TreyClanton

4 жыл бұрын

farm machinery fan Hello. That is a problem I’ve never had. If the stock thrust washers/bearings don’t keep the end play within spec, you have to question the wear on the crank. Can you buy over size thrust washers for a 3.7l? I’m not sure. I would begin by check the thrust surface on the crank and make sure it looks good. Then I would search for oversized thrust washers. If you know how much end play you have, you should be able to make a guess at how much oversized you need.

@farmmachineryfan856

4 жыл бұрын

@@TreyClanton Thanks for responding. It is a brand new crank, main and trust bearings. What would you think of putting the old thrust washers in? Unfortunately, I don't have a tool to measure the play. Thanks.

@TreyClanton

4 жыл бұрын

farm machinery fan Hello Again. It won’t hurt to check the old washers, but something seems fundamentally wrong if the crank is new. You can measure the end play with a feeler gauge. Just gauge the gap between the crank and the thrust washer. That dimension is your end play. Nothing fancy required. I would question if the crank is from the right year. I would double check part numbers with the dealer.

Hello, how important is it to replace the freeze plugs on this 3.7 engine? Will i be fine leaving them alone during a rebuild? Thanks

@TreyClanton

4 жыл бұрын

Ethan Reddick You can leave them if you like. I knock mine out so there is better cleaning of the water ports when they vat the block.

@15farcry

4 жыл бұрын

@@TreyClanton Thanks for your reply. As for the bed plate, i got permatex brand red rtv gasket maker. Its high temp up to 600 degrees. Will this work? Thanks

@TreyClanton

4 жыл бұрын

Ethan Reddick It will work just fine if you follow the torque instructions and use and small even bead of sealant.

@15farcry

4 жыл бұрын

@@TreyClanton Thanks so much for your advice!

@15farcry

4 жыл бұрын

@@TreyClanton Hello again, i'm hoping you can put my mind at ease. So i do had a similar problem after i finished torquing down the bed plate. I could turn the crank even with a ratchet. I loosened the 8 main bolts and then i was able to turn by ratchet. So i finished torquing again and now it turns more easily by ratchet and i can a little bit by hand. I tried a torque wrench and it takes around 3 foot pounds to turn. Maybe less. Also, the crank had the sticky wax coating that the machinist told me i could leave on and just to put lube on bearing surfaces. Is this okay? Thanks

I'm currently rebuilding my 2004 3.7 engine with 160k miles on it. Will i be able to reuse my oil pump? thanks

@TreyClanton

4 жыл бұрын

luvmyfiat You certainly can reuse it. Based on the price (relatively inexpensive), the amount of work required to get to it, and the fact that is wears with time, I would think seriously about replacing it.

@luvmyjeep

4 жыл бұрын

@@TreyClanton Thankyou for your quick response. I am rebuilding due to a bad rod bearing. Getting the crank done but not the block since the cylinder walls seem to be spotless. I also reusing the heads due to cost. I would just clean them up good and stick them on with a new gasket and bolts. What are your thoughts on this and any pointers? thanks

@TreyClanton

4 жыл бұрын

luvmyfiat I don’t see a problem per se. Take your time and check the block as well as possible. You might consider cross hatching the cylinders which can be easily done DIY. As for the heads, I would check the valve seats for any that might be loose. The bottom line is that you are doing a lot of work and you want it to be worthwhile for as long as possible. Good luck with your rebuild!

@luvmyjeep

4 жыл бұрын

​@@TreyClanton Yes i'll be doing alot of checking over on the heads. As for the walls, i can rent a honing tool which should work. Will i be fine using the same con rod which was knocking, or should i replace the one that knocked. I do have other used ones,. Could i just swap those? Thanks again for your response and for uploading these very educational vids on the 3.7.

@TreyClanton

4 жыл бұрын

luvmyfiat If the rods look good on inspection and measure out correctly, you should not have any problem with reuse.

Why do these engines need a rebuild with so low of mileage, what goes out on them?

@TreyClanton

4 жыл бұрын

Ron Osga, In my limited experience, valve and/or timing system failures are the most common cause of failure in these engines.

@ronosga5072

4 жыл бұрын

I have an 04 with 130K it has a very faint tick after its warm, but if you idle it up it doesn't speed up or become louder like a rod knock would. It has thrown a rocker arm off once but has always been maintenanced and has had an easy life. Thanks