Hello Jan, Very interesting conversion... It looks very successful... Take care. Paul,,

@jansverrehaugjord9934

3 жыл бұрын

Thnks! yes, I think this is one of the more useful conversion for a manual "change-gear" lathe. As written in the header (I added some text): Not only for the aforementioned Myford, but also for example an Emco, etc., as well as the "China benches" that usually doesn't come with a gearbox, or if so, a very limited one. With an ELS (Electronic Lead Screw) on a lathe, you achieve with a motor on the Z-axis, ie controlled length feed, you achieve the same as with a gearbox. You no longer have to trouble with the different gear combination for a specific thread pitch or change from this back to the longitudenal feed (bot of which operations normally requires a quite elaborate change of the gear setup) There are "programs" for "Gearbox R" and "Gearbox L" , for operation against or from the chuck and thus to turn right or left hand threads or feed either way. This is simply selected from the menu on the ELS unit. You can choose metric or inch pitch with a "resolution" for all thread pitches be them metric or imperial (PS! I have made a table for most inch pitches to remember easier which metric conversion to use.. for example the 8TPI thread on the Myford leadscrew is 3,175mm ..). You migh tuse the "Gearbox program" or for convenience, to make it even easier to cut threads, there is also setup directly in an appropriate menu for either external or internal threads, "EXT Thread" or INT Thread". If you only have z-axis control, it becomes a semi-automatic operation, you have to do the manage the cross-axis feed yourself after each cut and press reverse/start If, on the other hand, you also have control on the cross-feed (x-axis), this is also automated. You can then set the required parameter easily and proceed to thread at a higher speed than otherwise possible, with a weaker machine you can e.g. there are several more passes with shallower cuts. Actually, you can go quite a lot faster than what is usual with manual threading (for example as I have tried, 5-600 rpm.. even up to 1000 rpm) With control over both axes, you can also turn cones, inside and outside radii and other shapes (such as balls).

Great looking lathe machine. A little automation is good.

@jansverrehaugjord9934

3 жыл бұрын

Thnks. Personally I think the ELS offers the benefits of two worlds, ie. CNC and regular manual machines very well on this scale. Not having to go all the way and convert the machine, but rather retaining the manual controls is a good thing in my eyes and is so very well done in this small package. As a Z-axis drive kit doesn't cost more than a gearbox does even this will be a better choice as it can do more.

Very nice machine. Are you using the stock myford leadscrew and x feed screw or did you install ball screws?

@jansverrehaugjord9934

2 жыл бұрын

Thnks! I am using the standard Myford leadscrew/half-nuts. The nice thing, in my eyes, with this "upgrade" is the ability to use the lathe as normal ie. both manually- and cycle-controlled.

Hi Jan nice to see another ELS video from you. You have now collected some expirency with the mounting of the motors. What would you say are the pro and cons for gear or belt drive, the motor behind the gear cover or in place of the gear box as shown in one of your last videos ?

@jansverrehaugjord9934

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Hmm... I was at least surprised with the apparant lack of backlash in the geared setup I used on this lathe. Then there was some noise (which I should have anticipated and understood, but that is another story..) that needed extra attention (it would probably have been better to use the end of the adapter that nornally fits the banjo instead of mounting it to the plate that goes to the bed. In contrast the belt connection is quite silent. The real advantage of the 90 degree geared solution is really to be able to house the motor inside the gear cover. OTOH.. this could also have been used to house the driver board, so now this had to find a different place. If I wasn't so intent to retain the look of the machine and thereby also wanted the gear cover unmolested (as opposed to the other Super 7 where I had the motor inline with the leadscrew and since this then protruded out to the left of the machine, I extended the cover.. made a "bulge" to accomodate the motor. However, although this is a good solution "drivewise", with the longer hybrid stepper, I thought the bulge would really become too long and big, so dumped that idea) I would simple have mounted a plate like I showed on the ML10 and then only used the left side ie. the door of the gear cover. I will investigate this more on my next-in-line "victim". Maybe this plate will be a little too far out with the belt length I have bought, but so be it (could of course buy shorter belts). Anyway, the belt drive is probably a good choice.. cannot see any cons here apart from that I have also ditched the idea of placing the motor facing right, ie. so that I would need a somewhat elaborate fixture for the then (in my eyes) needed bearing support. I would just go straight with the solution as on the ML10. PS! Slack in the belt and/or a longer than needed belt would probably cause some backlash, but this is easily "arranged away" both in software and of course by choosing a short belt belt and making sure it is tight. All the above true and well.. the easist is probably to mount the motor on the right hand side to the rear of the bed. I would make a plate and also add a ball bearing to the brass bushing/adapter already there, since this is on the smaller end of the leadscrew. Belt would be longer.. maybe a tightening pulley mid-travel (as in car engines) would be OK, but possibly not needed. The handwheel mount could be extended a little so I don't think there would be any need for doing away with this (even though you probably don't use it that often). The advantage with either the right or left hand side belt-driven motor placements is also that I guess you could make a housing incorporating the driver board together with the motor. Are you already an ELS user? If not, I would heartily recommend this "upgrade" or "modernisation".

@olafkundrus1570

3 жыл бұрын

No, I'm not jet a ELS user, but for sure will be. This is the reason why I ask for recommendations for the set-up. I will go with the ELS 4 Pro from Rocketronics on a super 7.

@jansverrehaugjord9934

3 жыл бұрын

@@olafkundrus1570 Sounds like a very good choice! Good luck!

Hi Jan, I just purchased an ELS4 PRO kit for my Super 7 MK1 with no gearbox. The initial(test) was not hard but now comes the mounting of the motors. I have considered driving the crossfeed directly with a shaft coupler, instead og the )noisy as you say) angle gear. Do you have any specific recommendations to share on the mounting? Also what did you do to reduce backlash?

@jansverrehaugjord9934

2 жыл бұрын

Great! I used this method on my first Myford with ELS. I used coupler unit. Like this www.rocketronics.de/shop/en/drives/shaft-coupling/shaftcoupler-9nm/ The motor protruded out to the left and I modified the cover to accomodate this. Have a look at this in the start of this video here kzread.info/dash/bejne/kWym1LapabLHpag.html . The backlash was minimal and is compensated for anyway by a setting in the software

@jansverrehaugjord9934

2 жыл бұрын

Hi again Kenneth, you may also contact me at my gemail jshaugjord.. I have some more photos and may be of help re. installing the motor. I think I tried most possibilities except for the most common, namely to use a rear mounted motor with a belt on the right-hand side of the leadscrew/bed. I also tried several different adpaters/mounting methods for a rear-mounted cross-slide motor and can have some hints there too :)

@BinaryClay

2 жыл бұрын

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Thank you very much Jan, You'll get a mail from me very soon :)

Hi Jan, do you have plans to make a CNC conversion on one of your myfords?

@jansverrehaugjord9934

Ай бұрын

Not CNC, but rather one more fitted with the Rocketronics ELS system (as shown in different previous videos)

Hi, From your experience, what type of Nema 23 would you suggest for the Myford S7? 1.26Nm or nearer to 2.4Nm. I'm currently making the bracketry for the x-axis....

@jansverrehaugjord9934

Жыл бұрын

Hi again, I used what came with the kits.. latest kit I bought for the Myfords was the Servo M3N www.rocketronics.de/shop/en/paket-servo-M.html which uses a so called "hybrid stepper" for the axis and the 60BYGH250B-08 stepper motor for the x-axis. I far as I can see this is rated at 1.47Nm

@TheElderlyBiker

Жыл бұрын

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Yes, I see that now as a 1.47Nm stepper. I'm also using a Hybrid unit (Steppersonline) and that seems more than adequate. I like your idea of disengaging the x-axis coupling for manual use - I will copy that!!

Hi Jan, could you share a link to the kit for this?

@jansverrehaugjord9934

3 жыл бұрын

Sure: www.rocketronics.de/shop/en/controllers/packs/els-conversion-packs-for-lathes/ PS! I have bought both M-kits, ie. first with a stepper for the Z-axis, but last one with a so called Hybrid stepper (the blue diver box). Then you will need one of the controllers. The simplest/cheapest is fully satisfactory for use in my case www.rocketronics.de/shop/en/controllers/controls/lathecontroller/ PS! I haven't calculated what the price would be if you just had a 1 axis ie. leadscrew control, but you could at least do away with one motor with driver and cabling. Mr. Schreyer makes a point of offering genuine Leadshine products, but there may be more to save if you bought other brands

I don't see any drawbacks to the setup at all. Have you noted any?

@jansverrehaugjord9934

3 жыл бұрын

The gears are a little more noisy than if you use a belt drive.. I made a gasket out of an old bicycle tire to fit between the motor mount and the bed casting where it is fitted which helped, but this shows that the noise is really a derivate of vibrations (as most often it is), in this case from the motor, and the importance of a proper mounting. It may have been better to use teh 2 screws and flat surface to which the banjo normally fits.