The purpose of this channel is to post machine-shop related projects, mainly restoration of machine tools.
For my friends and members of the Facebook group called Verktøymaskinklubben (short VMK), mainly consisting of Scandinavian speaking persons I have a Norwegian language only channel to which i will make available some projects also , as my 1st efforts here: kzread.info/dron/afO62YUYeu6YTZTsHbRLIA.html
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Nice Jan. I'm about 2 weeks away from the headstock. The bed surfaces are progressing well at the moment.
Sounds good! It is a bit of work, but rewarding to see how it progresses
Have you replaced the spindle drive belts? I have the same machine, they are very uncommon here in the US. I will be replacing the belts soon since one of them has broken. Your video is very helpful, I will be making the same repair.
Thnks for the nice comment. No, I haven't done more to this machine. I think to replace the spindle drive belt you need to take out the spindle
Hi Jan, great stuff. Seems like you are pushing the myfords to their limit and getting amazing results. Just goes to show you can achieve great results on a small machine with the right care. Here's an project you may be interested in. Not sure you if have come across such machine before, but the myford 'big bore' machines are a nice addition to the myford collection, having a larger bore. And I am sure you are wondering about the headstock, it uses a slightly different headstock than regular which I'm sure you'd be eager to disassemble and tinker with. Unfortunately (or fortunately) they fetch a steep £2k for such headstock alone, or even more if buying the complete machine. As you are a myford connesiour, you may be interested in making your own big bore headstock, since you have great knowledge around the myford headstock. It's been done before by a few people in the UK, but not much documentation from what I can see. What do you think?
Thnks for the nice comments and interesting topic of discussion. I have seen a few designs on modified headstocks, actually not only the S7, but also the ML7. Yes, as soon as I can get through the current projects I would lkie to experiment with making my version of a larger bore spindle. I have 2 versions in mind, both runing needle bearings in front, one with a hardened shaft running directly to the bearing ie. this one without the inner ring, then one with both inner- and outer rings, but still being a "thin" assembly. I know that for example a Deckel FP1 uses such needle bearings, but I am not convinced it will work here, so it is for my own good just to try out. The potential benefit apart from a larger bore canalso be higher rpm, although this is of less concern. I don't recall my calculations and have the details back at my home computer, but believe that withouth line-boring to a bigger dimension I can get something like 30mm throughput (but I may remember wrong). Maybe I will also expand the bore.. we'll see.
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Sounds good! I'll be staying tuned.
Hi Jan, do you have plans to make a CNC conversion on one of your myfords?
Not CNC, but rather one more fitted with the Rocketronics ELS system (as shown in different previous videos)
Hello, where could I download that guide on apron removal? Many thanks
Give me your email I will send you
Very helpful, thank you
You're welcome!
I really like the idea of taping the flashlight onto the scraper
Yes, very practical
How rigid is this machine? When totally assembled, does it vibrate when working? I have just bought a brand new ZAY 7045FG and it is the worst machine I have even seen. It vibrates all over even with the smallest end mill cutter of 4mm. Unbelievable. Is that one the same?
Thanks for commenting. This is not my machine, but as far as I can tell, there were some issues with fit and finish. This may be a concern vs rigidity. After scraping the parts this is improved. I can ask the owner how it performa
PS! I assume you have "optimized" the other parameters involved? Ie. tightened down axis not in use, clamped workpiece, milling cutter speed, depth of cut etc. ? Also mounted the machine correctly ie. levelled and clamped to a sturdy foundation?
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Yes, to all of your questions. I can, with all my strength, try to move the spindle by hand and feel no movement, either laterally or vertically, yet when the machine is in operation, it vibrates. I'm talking about every part of the machine from the milling bit to the table and spindle. An absolute mystery I have never seen before. I can only assume the base of the column is not mounted rigidly to the back of the base of the table body. Can you offer an opinion of this? The machine is painted all over in that area as well but I cannot see any paint splitting between the 2 parts. I would assume if the paint had cracked in that join, it would mean there is movement but there is no cracking.
@@redgum1340 As I am not using such a milling machine myself, I cannot really tell what the limits with respect to its' performance is. However, I suppose you have some sort of "open connection" somewhere, but this can be anything from a loose gib needing adjustment to more serious faults needing professional attention. I do however suspect the machine was tested before shipment so that this is a simple affair. If you are very certain this is not a matter of user error or like I hinted to earlier, then I would try to go through all different parts/assemblies and check thoroughly. If nothing is found, returning the machine might be one option.. or depending on where you are, move up in quality/price
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Thank you for your thoughts and replies. I think it may be an "open connection" somewhere and I really do need to find it. You are a very patient man and again, I thank you.
Hi Jan, is it possible to contact you by email ? I would like to get documentation about the Schaublin SV52 and I've read on a forum that you have some documents and manuals. But your email adress on this forum is no more accessible. Thank you
jshaugjord at gmail
Thank you Jan, I'll send you an email in a few minutes
kzread.info/dron/6Y8sXa9ikoAxS6c7mDsjlQ.html
Very interesting . Depending on the machine condition ( ie it’s cost )we have ordered new gibs or supplemented and regrounded and scraped . Great video and good work . Thank you for sharing
Thnks for the comment.Much appreciated and good luck using your accurate machine parts
Hi Jan, good tests. One quick observation from me, I see in the test of the solid tool block you used a quick change toolpost, however in the test with the compound slide, you used the 4 way toolpost. It could very well be a case that the lack of rigidity is actually stemming from the QCTP. Would be interesting to see: Toolblock -> QCTP Toolblock -> 4 way Compound - QCTP Compound -> 4way and to compare, to eliminate the variable of the tool holder changing between your tests. My best thoughts are a well scraped compound is just as good as the solid block, and actually the QCTP is far less rigid than people believe. Its like comparing the myford vertical milling attachment to a traditional mill, the overhang the vertical slide brings causes far less rigidity, same situation with the overhang of the QCTP.
Hi, Thnks fo the comments! You are of course right. The setup using the QCTP, being less rigid than the 4-way toolpost, is probably contributing to the results in the way you indicate. I guess I need to redo as you suggest :)
I am restoring a Weiler Matador which seems quite similar to yours, mine is a more sedate machine tool gray instead of race car orange. My lathe has a lead screw that was damaged and I would like to replace it. Do you have a photo of the new or old lead screw or any video of the removal? Do you have any specs on the belt sizes? Very nice video of your lathe repair.
Thnks for the nice comment! I didn't take any more video than what is shown here, sorry! The old screw wasn't much worn really, but I replaced it anyhow. The belt size is listed in the manual for the lathe, but as this is the lathe we have at my workplace, I haven't access to the manual myself from home. I can try to take a copy when back in office, but you may also get the manual from Weiler themselves as they are still in operation and will service and supply spare parts/documentation for this machine (as well as others). I would contact their service department and ask for their assistance. They were very nice to talk to and willing to help :)
I have photocopied a couple of teh pages from the instruction manual, showing the belts etc. Pls. give me your email or other contact details
Hi Jan, I used an old version of the Super 7 for about 40 years and knew the clutch inside out. I have now changed my lathe to a Mk 2 with a clutch like yours but the clutch sticks and will not release until the machine is turned off. So far I have not found any diagrams of the Mk 2 clutch operation. If you can help in any way by word or with any data I would very much appreciate it, I am 83 years old and still love to make parts on my lathe but am losing strength in my shoulder so a functioning clutch would be nice. I have tried to adjust the mechanism but to no avail. The clutch engages ok but will not disengage until depowered.
Hi there, I am in London for the weekend, but can recommend that you have a look at the diagram for the "motorizing assembly" found on Myford's web pages for the Super 7. There is also a Facebook group for the Myford
Hi! thank you for the video (I know it’s been five years)! I’m trying to fix the feed gear - pulley shift box which you open up in this video on a weiler matador (looks exactly the same). I don’t understand what should retain the lower belt pulley from sliding back with the clutch when moving the lever to clutch in the gears. it does tend to slide with it here and i’m sure i missed something cause that looks dangerous! I got it dismantled so i’m trying to puzzle it together. can you help me ? thanks in advance
Thnks for commeting. Shall try to help, but am currently in Australia at work, so must wait until I get back. I fon't remember details, but maybe I I have more footage of the part you are having problem with..
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 thanks a lot. there is no rush. also i could a find a way to keep it from sliding. i just really wonder how it is supposed to be done, because so far it just seems to be missing the feature, which is unlikely
pls. give me your email address then I can forward a drawing I found
great! i think it gets erased by youtube so not sure how to do it… i posted on the practical machinist forum about it. thread is called “weiler matador gear and pulley feed clutch”
@@bastieng I copied the drawing from the service parts manual, but I also documented it in my video from 07:12
I love it when professional people show how it's done...if you pay attention you can learn a lot of them. Great job 👍
Thnks!
hi jan where can i get the blade thanks for excellent video
You're welcome! The blades are from BIAX, some bought from their Swedish distributor StandardMekano who supported our latest Scandinavian scraping classes
Hello, nice to meet you, I have a lathe equal to this model, but the string table plate is erased, could you help me with a photo of your lathe in the string part?
Yes, I can.. send me your email..
How can I contact you, is that if I am interested in having the thread tables I would appreciate it very much
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Thank you very much for the tip
Aahh. sorry, I misintrepeted this and l linked to the Myford group. This is of course a Weiler! However, i can copy this info
The sound of the planer cutting makes me think I'm hearing the grain of the cast iron. I can't wait to see what crazy machine Henrik uses to restore his planer bed, when that time comes. Hehe, would that be Henrik and you, with hand scrapers, a truck load of beer, and a really impressive straight edge? I have heard it said that a lathe is the only machine tool that can build itself, but I think a planer could do that too.
Thnks for commenting. I think Henrik has some projects coming, yes!
Old machine to refurbish old machine , nice job as always, thank you very much for sharing !! Have a good day
Thnks the same! Yes, 130 old planer planing 40-60 year old Myford beds :)
That's an awesome piece of machinery modernized. With excellent results too!
Thnks. Yes, indeed is a nice machine. Results were surprisingly good!
Nice video of excellent work as always Jan Sverre! You're always welcome, this old planer still has many lathe beds left to go 😀
Thnks Henrik. Yes, I bet it can outlast us both.. probably another 100 years, with proper care!
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 haha, yah it's already ahead of us being 130 years plus
Thanks Jan. What a wonderful old machine. They knew how to make machines in those days and still producing excellent results. Thanks for the video, I alway enjoy your videos and learn a lot from them. Best wishes from the uk.
And thank you also for the nice comemnts. Yes, agree, they made very nice machines also long before any electronics & software was developed and introduced and later was used in different ways, including measurements and calculations eg. numeric control and compesating for irregularities.
Very satisfying to watch. I always wonder about my Myford.
Thnks. I have plenty of more "hypnotizing" footage from the planing itself :) If your parts are turning out with less quality and/or accuracy than you need, then the machine may be worn to a degree where you can consider to have the surfaces restored. Usually this involves taking the whole machine apart, starting from the bed and move up from there. It almost invetably also invloves eitehr grinding (or planing) and scraping, plus replacing parts. Luckily there is a good stock of old parts plus of course a very nice running service from Myford (subsidiary of RDG tools) for parts and accessories etc.
No matter how well written and illustrated a manual is (and many are not), I find it so helpful to also see procedures being done. Thank you!
You're welcome. Glad you find it useful!
Great! Much appreciated 🙌🙌
Thnks. You're welcome!
These videos are so interesting and will be valuable to me when I come to rebuild my Myford Super 7 that I bought last year. The previous owner used grease instead of oil!
@@paulklasmann1218 Ouch.. well, good luck on the restoration! Glad you find the videos of value .
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Thanks to your advice I'll be doing the scraping course in Austria thats run by Biax. I'm currently taking the sub assemblies apart to make a shopping list of new parts that I want to order from Myford. I'm sure it will be a nice lathe when im done with it and you're videos will help.
@@paulklasmann1218 Wow! Sounds great! Say hello to the brothers (owners) down there. Stunningly beatiful place btw..
Hello jan can you reccomend this lathe for a beginner? I'm just retired and longing real a time for a lathe.
Sure! Very nice lathe.. as long as it is not badly worn (out).
Great video. You wouldn't have a schematic or list of the components used in this upgrade that you could share?
Thnks. The kit list from Rocketronics that I used can be found here www.rocketronics.de/shop/en/paket-servo-M.html You will also need the transmission parts and mounts, depending on how you want to drive the screws, I used direct drive hence a split coupling as well as brackets, which I made myself to suit.
Can you recommend any suppliers of scraping tools and associated tools in Europe? I see that surface plates are very expensive for large ones the length of the Myford bed.
Where are you located?
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Hi Jan, I'm in Southern Germany. Since I posted the question to you I found that Richard King has done classes at a tool supplier called Schmid and Wezel GmbH part if Biax, and they also sell scrapers. Do you know them? Its the first place I found close to where I live. I'd be willing to travel in Europe to attend his classes or any other good classes for that matter.
@@paulklasmann1218 I know this company, yes. Have several of their Biax machine scrapers and accessories. Very nice pro tools.. highly regarded, possibly the best you can find! Anyway, I don't think they sell any straightedges and/or surface plates themselves. However, they have coop with companies, eg. Kingway (Richard King, USA) and Maschratur (Austria) running scraping classes. As far as I know, Richard runs his "Machine scraping and alignment" classes solely in the US now. He was having done classes worldwide before, including the 4 classes we hosted up here in Scandinavia (Sweden, Denmark and 2xNorway) as well as in the UK, Germany and I believe a double class in Austria, actually with Maschratur www.maschratur.at/schulungen-schaben/ . If I was you I would contact them 😊 They might also offer tools, but that I am not sure of.. PS! I think Richard still sells his Straightedge castings (his own square camelback design), either at his website kingwayscraping.com/services/ or at ebay.com. I guess you can search there yourself, plus at ebay.co.uk and ebay.de as well as your other German sites /kleinanzeigen or /quoka. I would also recommend to contact H.R. Lamb and sons (UK) as they sell their own straightedges as well as run scraping classes. They advertize here at www.lathes.co.uk/page3.html/ Regarding surface plates there are plenty of sources for granite types (fewer for cast iron I think) in all qualities and prices. A quick search on Google provided several, for example this 1000x630mm from Knuth (well actually from the far East I would assume, but anyway) www.knuth.com/en/accessories/measuring-technology/surface-plates/surface-plates-s9829 PS! As you can see this should be within 9 My overall, but generally you will find a stretch to test like the 950mm Myford at better specs.. Lastly, I would also enlist at this forum forum.zerspanungsbude.net/viewtopic.php?t=39725&start=10
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Thanks for that information, I will check those links, and hopefully I can soon get started learning scraping. Ever since I first saw it being done I knew it would be a useful skill to have but previously I didn't have the space or money to buy the tools. I really appreciate your advice. In the meantime I will learn what I can from videos until I can find a course to attend.
Just found your channel looking for info to restore Myfords. Wonderful work you do. May I ask where you learnt to scrape? My previous boss showed me the basics but I've never tried it myself.
Thnks for the nice comment. I learnt most from attending the Richard King classes and can heartily recommend this. I believe he still offers these locally in the US.
Hi Jan, could you tell me what motor and what encoder you've used on this modification? Unfortunately you haven't shown that and I'd really like to recreate that on my Myford, also fitting under the original gearbox cover. I'd greatly appreciate it if you could help me on this one :) Best wishes from Germany, Cornelius
Hello there, I used the Servo M3Nm Kit from Rocketronics www.rocketronics.de/shop/de/antriebe/komplettpakete/els-umbaupakete-fuer-drehmaschinen/
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Ah perfect, thank you so much! Do you also happen to have made plans for the adapter pieces? Or did you just make them up as you go to fit?
@@manufacture_tools ICprrect, I just made these adapters out of what was available and had no plans.. only a rough idea how it should be
Спасибо!
I don't know if you ever have time to USE the machines you restore so wonderfully, but I am curious about the oil usage on the plain bearings. I have a benchtop lathe with plain bearings, and I had to put on a large (2 ounces - about 60 mL) reservoir to run it for any length of time. It seems like a bearing flushing system some days...
Well, I do use these machines, but must admit the most used tool is probably the drill press :) Anyway, the oil consumption for the Myford S7 spindle bearings are not that much really, more so with the countershaft. I try to oil frequently, at least each time I use the lathe. Then I go over all oiling points
I need to make a back-plate for a new chuck, so this was very well timed... Oh Dear, the video ended part way through, 😟 Hopefully there will be more later? My Super 7 is somewhat earlier than yours. The spindle lock is just a plunger inside the change-gear cover. To use it, you have to open the cover each time, which is a B*** nuisance. The "handle" on yours, and the slot in the cover is a nice idea. Many thanks.
Sorry about that.. I should however be able to show the whole process in a separate video.. Yes, the spindle lock is a nice feature and a small detail that is often overlooked in other design. Just goes to show how well thought out the Myford was really..
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 : Not a problem. If you are intending to, great, if not, that's great too! It won't cause me any problem, but I do like the way you work. Many thanks.
@@PiefacePete46 Thnks for the nice comments. I try to document the work as I go, and have also made another video on spindle adjustment and testing, i.e setting preload and clearance for the rear- and front bearings respectively, but not edited the English version yet. Here is a link to the Norwegian version version though, on a separate YT site. I often make and post both versions (though the Norwegian versoins are often simpler and less edited.. if at all) as we have a small community of Myford users up here as well. My hunch is that the spindle adjustment procedure in the Myford manual is not interpreted as easy (enough) to follow, although it really is, so this is yet anotther attempt/angle on to "demystify" this and hopefully help others in position where they need to do this. kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZKKsk6xymL21Z9o.html
It's more than Super now! I suspect a lot of model steam engine building in its future.
Thnks! Yes, could be it will make steam engines :)
Dear Jan. Please could you show us your preferred method of aligning a gearbox to the leadscrew. My leadscrew is to tight in the support bushings. Slackening the gearbox mounting screws can help, but this doesn't seem like the right thing to do.
Tja.. ? I assume you can measure (with an indicator) where the misalignment is, working from the reference the bed represents. That being so, I would try to do this with only the leadscrew and support bearings as well as the gearbox mounted .. to minimize the number of "uncertainties" involved. Actually, the support block and bored hole (for the leadscrew) should also be proven, as well as the leadscrew for straightness. Maybe it is a "simple" case of this not being true? Inwhich case it will bind up in some positions when you turn it around. Bending back to correct that is possible (various methods), but must be done with care and patience.
Very nice smooth running machines. I imagine all the slides are silky smooth. Great candidate for an electronic lead screw.
Thnks for commenting. Yes, you are right.. a good candidate to "upgrade" with an ELS system, either just the longitudenal axis or also the cross-feed. Doing both allowing a complete cycle-control, as shown before using the Rocketronics ELS system. I have been through several of these installations, both 1- and 2-axis, and different motorizing versions, espcially on Myfords and I consider this a very good "value for the investment in time and money"! The slides are newly scraped and with a new ground bed (as this is) it performs very nice..
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 have you seen the clough42 ELS. Less capable but simpler and cheaper. I would love the rocketronics unit but I work in imperial a lot and he doesn’t seem to want to add a bit of code to allow that. I think imperial offends his sensibilities 😜.
@@sblack48 Yes, I have seen the Clough42 featured. Is this also now 2ch? PS! They may be working on Imperial units for the Rocketronics system.. contact them and ask to be certain.
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 no it’s simple longitudinal feed only, but quite inexpensive.
I wonder sometimes what happened to the German machine tools from this era. It looks like being in sweeden was what saved this one from the bombers.
Thnks for the comments. However, it is not Sweden, but Norway..
We do however still have some German machines that are leftovers from the years of the occupation 1940-45. I have mostly seen lathes that have been used by either airforce - or army personell. I guess that workshops of that period were equipped with domestic as well as foreign material, but that there was a pre-disposition for choosing machines of German origin
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 whoops! sorry :s
@@tilliesinabottle No problem at all :)
Thank you. How do you decide whether to be pulling the scraper or pushing the scrapr?
Convenience. Inside pockets I find easier to pull scrape. I tend to compare with welding, ie. different techniques, methods and equipment for the different types of material and situations etc.
Thanks for another informative video 👍🏼
You are welcome!
I read somewhere that cross slides are given a very slight angle so that faced off surfaces bear on the outer edges first. Do you try to incorporate this feature?
Yes, you are right. The specs call for a one sided tolerance (uni-lateral) of 0 to apprx -half a thou" (concave, ie. curved inwards) acc to industry standards applicable. Most Myfords I have encountered do however have double of this.. say 1thou. I assume it is better to have a little bit more than needed as the turning forces will likely bend and twist these quite "delicate" machine members within these figures anyway. As a test, try leaning onto the the top slide while having an indicator mounted to a test piece..
As always, thanks for sharing your very informative videos! Links to products are always helpful, so please post. I have some of that chinese Turcite on order, will be exciting to see if it is usable.
Thnks! Much appreciated. Do you have an email I could contact you on?
I suppose it makes me a bad person, but I hope you never get so good that it isn't interesting for you. I enjoy seeing how you work and think through the repairs and restorations. Thank you again for sharing!
Bad person.. ? No, I don't think so :) Anyway, I enjoy what I am doing, which is what a hobby should be about and have plans to stop. Thnks again for nice comments!
Thank you. Looking forward to the next video 👍🏼
You're welcome.. not long until next video :)
Rationally, I know it works. I still can't help feeling like it's wrong to trust my machine's rigidity to something that can be cut with scissors.
Hmm.. I understand, but you might have a look at applications where it is normally used, ie. really big machinery, for example as shown here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/lmmMyLqJorO4oc4.htmlsi=JSLju04tpKE3duQU . Or a bit smaller: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZWd1q9mcj9CsqbA.htmlsi=GxeB2NvDuSZwjAe5 and here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/Y66C2MaEqpjYaJc.htmlsi=3KIFoieZPzpW62y- Here is also a product video from the manufacturer, Tri Star Plastics: kzread.info/dash/bejne/rIufsshmZc6fgrg.htmlsi=z0qkXUA6eRvr7269
Very informative Jan. Thank you for showing us. As always your videos are so very interestingand helpful. Happy new year to you and your family from the UK.
Thnks for the nice comments :) And for the greetings! I am glad that the videos are helpful. These are made as I go along with my own activities in the workshop, the Myford restorations being a mainstay.. , but as this is also a very popular lathe/machine, I assumed from the start documenting my work could be of interest. PS! Pls. note that these videos are not generating any income for me ("monetized", is that the word?) so therefore my resources ie. film camera (currently the Iphone 8) and editing efforts (Camtasia mostly) are kept to a minimum, but hopefully understandable and to the point.. ie. good enough for fellow hobbyists :)
I like that procedure, I'll have to try it on my next project, a surface grinder.
Thnks. I did 2 saddles this time and this was the 2nd and most sucessfull. I will show some of the procedure for the 1st also, which gave a bit more work at the scraping stage because of a slight load imbalance during the clamping with weights I guess. Could be useful to see for others I hope.. Then the scraping of that same saddle
Hello Is it a 3-phase motor or did you change the winding yourself?
This is a 3 ph motor
First time I've seen someone scrape Aluminum. It works far better than I would have expected, I wonder why it isn't done more?
Tja.. ? I assume it isn't considered of much use for "construction" work within machining..
Very clever fixturing ! thank you best regards Steve
You're welcome!