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Efficient Campus Board Training | Adam Ondra's Training Series Ep.3
In part three of our new training series with Adam Ondra, we catch up with the man himself at his home climbing gym in Brno, Czech Republic. This time, we're looking at campus boarding, which Adam considers to be one of the most efficient training tools available to climbers. Adam urges caution, however, as improper technique is a one way ticket to finger injury.
Пікірлер: 86
He's completely posessed when he switches on, haha. Such a nerdy character with this psycho inner beast, a real character.
"You should be climbing AT LEAST a 7b route.. " I don't belong here.. sayonara
@wiktordeneka7175
3 жыл бұрын
😂😂 me too
@alexbarcovsky4319
3 жыл бұрын
I think you could also be climbing 6C+ or 7A boulders, similar finger strength required.
@langman194
3 жыл бұрын
I’ve been climbing 6 times and asked my friend if I should by a hang board and he went “ no way” turns out it can injure u hella bad
@adonisroyal4999
3 жыл бұрын
instablaster.
@tblends
2 жыл бұрын
It's true...
Those double dynos using two fingers blew my mind! That is power
@kohlrabenschwanz
5 жыл бұрын
1-5-9 is way harder. belive me. its like a muscle up on 4 fingers
Adam is such an character, thank you, awesome video!
@EGbean2
5 жыл бұрын
Coming a year later to remind you to watch the Road to Tokyo series
BEAST
Very informative, love these videos! Thanks for posting and thanks for taking the time to do these training vids Adam!
The uplifting soft rock towards the end while he is making ungodly guttural moans and groans is pretty hilarious tbh
Pause the video and just look at his forearms when he's campusing the upside down slopers
Thanks for giving it to us straight brother. Love your energy
Just another level of climbing, epic video!
Magnus midtbo just posted a video showing him ATTEMPTING 1-5-9. that just put into perspective how impossible this move actually is
@francescosallustio8860
3 жыл бұрын
Check Yves Gravelle then
@auroravuitton90
3 жыл бұрын
@@francescosallustio8860 Sick.. I'm sure there are plenty of ultra strong climbers that can do things beyond even the 1-5-9. But most of us normal human, arguably more than 99.9% of us can't do anything that come even close was my point
@antobolmei9453
Жыл бұрын
1-6-10 Of Yves Gravelle, then try Yves Squeeze..
This guy is such an inspiration. :)
"Campus board training" IN REALITY: Ondra doing things we could never dream of
Campus, destroyer of the show off.
The booger from episode 2 returned!
i dont even understand the undercling on slopers with no feet part
@cyrilgermain2654
7 жыл бұрын
It's the answer to the "squeeze harder" dilema :o
@dweeder1453
6 жыл бұрын
I was thinking exactly the same thing.
@Danmunshaw
5 жыл бұрын
Can't you see what needs to be done . Focus
@Danmunshaw
5 жыл бұрын
Even tho he can't he trys his hardest every time
@sillychinas
4 жыл бұрын
They are circular pinches
American ninja warrior man
amazing.
this is fucking ridiculous. definition of beast mode.
Are the campus slopers considered less dangerous than say, the finger board or bars? Assuming they put much less strain on finger tendons, are they ok for beginners? Preferably static hanging over dynamic moves or slow controlled moves in general? Would love some input from people with more experience than me =)
@mihailmilev9909
Жыл бұрын
sorry u never got that input bro
So much power, damn!!
I feel like for 7B, finger strength is needed that can't only be coming from climbing alone. maybe hangboard instead of campus then?
@Tom-mm3pv
Жыл бұрын
Depending on how genetics, it is possible for sure. I bouldered F7b just from climbing. A lot of it is learning technique too. Climbing since I was 10 though so long time
We have a campus board set up in our gym that allows you to use small footholds. I have only been bouldering for 4 months and my top grade is 7a+. I just started using the campus board and I can really feel the difference in strength even after 2 weeks. You can rarely get such pure power training on the wall. Definitely start doing campus training, if you can manage to do it safely! This way your strength improves with your technique and you won't hit a wall because you are just too weak.
@tblends
2 жыл бұрын
If you've been climbing for only 4 months, you're not really climbing 7a...lol
@Mylada
2 жыл бұрын
@@tblends Well I am climbing 7C now so I dont know whether it was 7A+ 2 years ago but it might have been. I climbed first 7A without any climbing training. Anyway, afterall I dont find the campus board that helpfull and havent done it really at all
@Rockmaster867
Жыл бұрын
@@tblends I have seen it. People who start climbing when already very strong can power through a lot.
@Arithmophobia
Жыл бұрын
@@tblendsyou just need to get stronger bro
Adam says f*** it at 4:52
@lemmysverruca
6 жыл бұрын
The word is "fuck".
So much power. Beast
i’m literally perfect, just hit my 2 years of climbing, just did my first 7b+, and 16 isn’t that mind blowing guys
@juliuscaesar7795
Жыл бұрын
shut up
1-5-9 is just a dream to me...1-5 is doable, but the 5-9 part...is not
@chaseramos4865
5 жыл бұрын
You need to learn 1 arm pullups
If you want to increase the intensity of the training you can do more reps or sets or use weights
Thanks Adam for such wise advices. Long story short: do not train on campus board if you're not climbing 7b/+. You're not going to climb 7b in your first two years anyways, you'll stay away from injuries.
@fin788
6 жыл бұрын
Antoine Blanchet disagree. U dont have to be able to climb 7b+ to campus. Some people dont even lead. They only boulder. So campusing helps for them. Need at least 1 years of exp before can campus minimally.
@ThitoO
6 жыл бұрын
I don't understand why you mention lead climbing, grades apply to bouldering too and I still think that under 7b/+ even bouldering you should not train on hanging or campus boards. It will eventually lead to injuries but also to physical first approach to climbing. In my opinion you climb best when you're "lazy" ie. try to find the easiest way to climb. If you're tough and you one arm pull up on two fingers you'll tend to power through moves and will eventually hit a maximum level when some technic will be required. Train your technic first by climbing a lot of different things (and avoiding things like "I don't like slabs" etc), and then when your technic is okay you can train your power. But it's just my opinion ;)
@fin788
6 жыл бұрын
Well everyone have their own opinion. I have climbed for 10 years exactly hence i have my own opinion. Cheers man.
@albertohart5334
6 жыл бұрын
7 months of rock climbing and im onsighting 7a+ and redpointing 7b/+ routes
@fin788
6 жыл бұрын
street orang good job! Same for me man last time cos im very light. So i get strong very fast. I dont even do campusboard/hangboard until i reach my plateau...which is after climbing for 1 year 4 months.
2:36 starts
5:24
Weaker right arm ? Hmmmmmmm , something is not adding up here boiiis =D The truth is that , i have started to wonder if we are the same species after all XD Go Go Go Go our Majestic Jirafe ^_^
I feel fat.
Maybe 1-5-8 and 1-5-9 decides whether you are able to climb 9b(+) or a 9c
Climbing 9c+
he has such a long neck :-O
He has such a long neck lol
I want to buy a campus board but I dont have the place to make it overhanging does it need to be overhanging?
@Jsoccer1999
6 жыл бұрын
Love Climbing yea otherwise your body will rub into it
@guillaumegallani9331
6 жыл бұрын
You can build/buy one that sits on a door frame, this way you'll have ample space below it for your body.
whats the best way to train for me (im 11 years old)
@hanswoast7
7 жыл бұрын
You could practice technique and agile climbing like on boulders. Muscle coordination and a good overall sense of your body will help you in many sports and is best learned early on. Also patience and a positive attitude is key. Most things in life are very hard the first few times, but when you are open to new approaches and willing to learn, you can achive a lot. Be nice to yourself and others. Persistence and peacefulness will pay you back a million times. Strength and endurance is easier and safer to gain when you are adult. Don't push yourself too hard. Bones and tendons are strongest around 30. Many young adults train strength excessively and have the muscle power to do risky moves that their tendons cannot support and they thus will break. Be nice to your body and keep in mind that your muscles are the part adapting the fastest. Other parts might need some more time. Also stretching before and after sport is important to keep agile. Doing sports without ever stretching will make you a very unagile and stiff person. I recommend you do Pilates or even meditate. Having a calm and clear mind is helpful in many ways, not only sports. I hope some of this was helpful, even though it was most likely too much. Best wishes
@souleymanediarra5565
7 жыл бұрын
Hans Woast excellent advice Hans, the key word in campus boarding is TENDON, the tendons take far longer to train and condition than muscles and tendon injuries take far longer to heal. Plyometric/ssc training can only be done safely a maximum of twice weekly even by highly trained, Olympic-level athletes. A very gradual approach is good, considering where one wants to be in a few years rather than a few months, there is saying- make haste slowly. Having fun is the most important aspect in my opinion, if you listen to most accomplished climbers or other athletes for that matter they seem to enjoy what they do each day even before they "became successful". Happy climbing 🙂
@Joe-og6br
4 жыл бұрын
I know you asked 2 years ago. However I do not recommend campus boarding until at least 16 years old. I started using a campus board when I was 13. Against the advice of more experienced climbers. I am now 30 years old and my tendons and joints are fucked. Maybe it's not because I campus boarded at such a young age. Enjoy climbing for now. Leave the campus board for a few more years.
What is a 7B in the Yosemite system? I can do 5.12-5.13 at the hardest. Been climbing for 2 years
Any armwrestlers watching this?
:O
''Campusing is very dangerous and you should be careful about it'' proceeds to do stupid hard and injury inducing moves ''dont try this a home kids''
@jidoc4877
6 жыл бұрын
it's a warning for people who may not be fit enough for it. not sure what your point is.
His neck is so long
U have to be climbing for two years:I’m good U have to be able to climb at least 7b: cool I can keep going U have to be above 15 years: shoot I gotta go.
@chaseramos4865
5 жыл бұрын
stfu