For those asking, I checked the TRIAC. It hasn't failed short, but it doesn't detect as a TRIAC with the Mtester (possible not enough current for that). Quick follow-up video coming shortly.

@JKnight89

5 жыл бұрын

Ok after seeing this, you make me wanna remake my hot air stations control board...... off brand Atten,i think, 858D...

@robertw1871

5 жыл бұрын

Could be latchup, might not have zero crossed to shut off, could be a cosmic ray hit it at just the wrong moment....

@alexreeve

5 жыл бұрын

is there a blocking cap across it?

@FrozenHaxor

5 жыл бұрын

I've had a diferent chinese model at work fail where the comparator in regulation circuit failed and it constantly drove the heating element.

@2soldierman2

5 жыл бұрын

This would have been my guess. Triac/mosfet failure.

Probably taking over the Weller mentality: everything is a fuse if you use it wrong enough.

@EdWatts

5 жыл бұрын

Every ship can be a minesweeper... ...Once.

@iainportalupi

4 жыл бұрын

“Everything is a fuse if you use it wrong enough!” Needs to on a teeshirt!

This is why every bench needs an "Explosion Containment Pie Dish" for just such an emergency! :)

@tuttocrafting

5 жыл бұрын

Big Clive

@nightshadelenar

5 жыл бұрын

Ah, true. Just like Clive has one for "lithium and chemical explosions", would be nice to see dave use a few.

@johnfrancisdoe1563

5 жыл бұрын

Jeffrey [Equine Sanctuary] Unfortunately this would have been way too hot for the explosion containment pie dish, it was melting the metal while receiving fresh power until unplugged.

@BrucesWorldofStuff

5 жыл бұрын

Yep Big Clive convinced me too! I have the "Pie Explosion Dish" on my bench just for such occasions... :D

@nightshadelenar

5 жыл бұрын

@@BrucesWorldofStuff They're very useful for little lithium incidents, like stabbing the lithium cell with your spudger.

The reed switch doesn't control the fan, the temperature feedback loop does. It keeps running for a minute or so after the handle is put on the rest. If the fan stopped as soon as the handle was put down, then it was certainly a fan failure.

@wolvenar

5 жыл бұрын

You are particularly right. The reed switch is feedback to the controller to know to shut down the heater and fan once cooled.

@JJayzX

5 жыл бұрын

@@wolvenar I believe when he put it down the reed wasn't triggered and fan happened to die. Now what caused the overheating was without the fan blowing the thermistor wouldn't get a proper reading now. It might have actually detected cooler temps from not having air passed through the length of element and raised temp to compensate.

@Chrisamic

5 жыл бұрын

This was my thinking as well. I don't believe it actuated the reed switch when he put it down, and the fan failed at that exact moment - the fan should have kept on going as long as the heater was over 100C. That should have been his first clue. I've had my fan start up again if there's any residual heat (I have a Yihua 878). Dave is right, it should have still tried to regulated the temperature, however with no airflow happening all bets are off.

@wolvenar

5 жыл бұрын

@@JJayzX Pretty much spot on I would guess as well. Though at some point the thermistor should have gotten warm enough. Probably to warm to be safe though.

@xxportalxx.

5 жыл бұрын

Not neccesarily, if the heater is designed to operate safely only at a fraction of the applied voltage, thus relying on a pwm scheme of sorts to keep the average power down, then a triac or controller failure could easily overpower the fan's cooling ability.

If the thermocouple is the only sensor in the handle, then without airflow, you obviously can't detect the runaway fast enough, as you will be relying upon convection only. So the plastic (in the base) will melt long before convection gets the thermocouple (at the exit) up to the set point of, say 400 degress C. Other strategy(ies) will be required.

@EEVblog

5 жыл бұрын

It's covered in metal and mica insulation so I don't think radiant heat would be too bad.

@mckryall

5 жыл бұрын

Richard Rudek I think it'd get VERY hot sitting next to all of those heaters, hot enough to trigger a cutoff if the cutoff circuitry were functional

@donkeytits1

5 жыл бұрын

Nup. This guys on the money. You ever put your hand over the back of a hair dryer? No heat out the end and glowing element wires in about 3 seconds

@alfoncejean8826

5 жыл бұрын

it would be interesting to test the actual output of the sensor whith the fan off. not sure how duable in the states this station currently is

@Promilus1984

5 жыл бұрын

well third wire (speed feedback) on fan would prevent overheating due to insufficient air flow (stuck fan) but wouldn't if blades were broken and motor idly rotating.

Not vibration isolation but seal to force all air forward.

@EEVblog

5 жыл бұрын

Yep, does that too.

@teardowndan5364

5 жыл бұрын

@@EEVblog Pretty sure that's its primary if not only intended function.

@EEVblog

5 жыл бұрын

Sure, gotta make sure the air flow out and not backwards.

Dave, pay David so he can buy a decent rework station! ;)

@randynovick7972

5 жыл бұрын

Aye, Wouter. This. A thousand times, this.

@BavarianM

5 жыл бұрын

David needs to pay David more 😂

@Damicske

5 жыл бұрын

A nice Quick 861D :)

@ToTheGAMES

5 жыл бұрын

@@EscapeMCP Type it right if you want to spam something. RossmanN. Double N.

@Wilson84KS

5 жыл бұрын

Over the years he made more than enough money with that, no he throw out some thousand bucks for a JBC soldering iron plus some thousand bucks for the station and some hundret bucks for some new tips.

Why not a more hands on look into the problem instead of just speculation? You didn't even show a multimeter in this video. New lab not setup enough yet to hook up to the heating element, re-solder the fan and power it up and check things and actually determine where the failure was? Or just not worth your time?

@dorfschmidt4833

5 жыл бұрын

He should check the wires from hand piece to the station for continuity, especially the wires for the thermocouple.

@jimb032

5 жыл бұрын

Dave is not going to do more than that to check a lowly Yehaaa, Yahoo, or any other brand that costs less than $1000!

@mckryall

5 жыл бұрын

James Kerns Jr. Consider the effect of such an investigation though, there's more value investigating one of these because far more people have these than have $1000+ stations. As well, the $1000 stations are (usually) good anyway. The cheap ones need more work to figure out which ones are good enough.

@jimb032

5 жыл бұрын

@@mckryall Oh I agree with you, I'm just saying you clicked to the wrong channel for that! Dave is the electronics snob of KZread. And I'm not making fun of the Yahua either, I have 1 rework/solder station, 2 temp controlled solder pens, 1 DC lab power supply and a "Big Clive" 'lil USB power supply with Big Clive Mod! I also have 2 older Wellers when they were really good, and I wont spend anymore the money for the Weller tips. I'm sorry they are not noticeably better to me, I think I'd rather use the Yihua, so you will not hear me bashing them. It's also not like that thing should be left unattended anyway, even though that doesn't give an excuse for poor electrical safety, which does bother me.

@MetalheadAndNerd

5 жыл бұрын

You are right. Dave doesn't make much use of his equipment in these videos. If he restricted himself to power banks and LED lights the voice would be the only difference to Big Clive.

Yeah, I have one of these (similar), and the thermal sensor is in the path of the airflow (where you'd want it to be). You only care what the temperature of the air is during operation, not the coil (until it goes meltdown). Likely, a thermal fuse on the coil would be what you want. I could tell because if I set the airflow to near zero, the coil would just turn on all the time and get quite toasty in a hurry.

I suspect the triac is the original fault, shorted out so the element didn’t power down when it was put back in the cradle, so the controller tried to shut it off and turned off the control signals for the fan and element, but if the triac shorted the element wouldn’t be able to have its power shut off.

@EEVblog

5 жыл бұрын

That doesn't explain the failed fan though. Bit of a coincidence to get a TRIAC and fan failure at the same time, unless the fan failure caused the TRIAC failure somehow (I don't see the opposite happening)

@CharlesJCliffe

5 жыл бұрын

There’s several videos online where the TRIAC has failed in these models and caused exactly the same outcome; I think the TRIAC (knockoff part?) failed while using it and didn’t go nuclear until it was put back on the holder.. I’d bet the heater wrecked the fan if anything.

@TheDefpom

5 жыл бұрын

EEVblog - I know you measured the fan but maybe it’s internal control fooled your test, have you tried powering it?

@alfoncejean8826

5 жыл бұрын

@@EEVblog overhead from the failed control killed the fan?

@alfoncejean8826

5 жыл бұрын

@@TheDefpom but is the triac actually failed?

I never actually measured it, but wouldn't a brushless DC fan always measure open circuit since there's a bunch of transistors between the supply an the stator?

@fredfarnackle5455

3 жыл бұрын

Precisely. A simple test by applying 24V DC to it would have been a definitive test. I have a similar station where the fan driver circuit failed, the fan itself is good and the hot air gun tests fine on an identical unit. I watched this video hoping to find out which component might be the culprit on mine but it was just a waste of time. The commentary really pissed me off, his high pitched squeaky non-stop voice is very irritating and he displays a contemptuous dismissive regard for what he is looking at and doesn't understand.

@joeds3775

3 жыл бұрын

Wow thats a lot of butt hurt for one soy boi. Firstly, give there were ONLY 2 wires to the motor... its not going to have transistors in it. Secondly, the price and cheapest option ethos kind of suggest a straight forward dc fan... And thirdly.. this guy is an expert who would have seen the truth in a reading of ohms that would have suggested another type. Your comments make you look a fool with little or no real depth of knowlege, and absolutely no respect. You are a muppet. And youre full of shit. Too full. Its comming out your mouth.

"sol dering station" is probably because the other side is "smd rework station" - they just separated both words after 3 and after another 6 characters. With smd rework, it fits fine. With soldering, it fits only after the second break, but hey, if you don't know how to read our characters, if you only know how to read Chinese, it would be just as hard as it is for us trying to write something in Chinese and getting it right.

@pianoman78

5 жыл бұрын

I think I would check with someone who knows Chinese before I print something that goes into production ;)

@user-mh6jy9ho9k

5 жыл бұрын

No, English obviously has spaces in between words to prevent you from those mistakes. Chinese does not. And second of all, yes you`d think they would check at least for a minute before they put that on there. So that's still a retarded mistake and shows their general company working style which probably is the actual reason why that device failed the way it did.

While a 6A fuse may have been over-rated for the application, a more appropriate 4A fuse still wouldn't have changed anything about the hot-air wand melting down from fan failure as the element was likely operating normally at the time. The fuse only does any good when something fails in a way that causes excess current draw long enough to blow it. A bit puzzled about why the temperature regulation didn't reduce the heater's duty cycle after the fan stopped. Did the TRIAC or thermocouple short out? I know my similar-looking cheapo hot-air station is pretty quick at throttling heater power when I change airflow.

The temp sensor would be expecting such high temps as its in the airflow section on the blower, its used for temp select not as a safety device, it was probably regulating the temp as spec but without the airflow the heat just built up in the handle.

@allesklarklaus147

5 жыл бұрын

GooleyGaz Yeah I think I can agree on that. The plastics are not going to take even 300C so the regulation could be just fine and it would still fuck up everything

And even this thing has a fuse WELLER!

@kapioskapiopoylos7338

5 жыл бұрын

i laugh but tbh this isn't even funny, my father and a good old professor on EE told me to get a weller as i am setting up my bench, then thankfully seen Dave's vid and got a hakko, they really made a name for themselves in the past that they do their best to ruin it now

@westelaudio943

5 жыл бұрын

Weller is a big fuse itself...

@pauldegroot2405

5 жыл бұрын

Weller has its fingers in its ears and yelling lalalalalalala

@punker4Real

5 жыл бұрын

Oversized fused so it's no better then the weller..

@RetroComputerStu

5 жыл бұрын

@@kapioskapiopoylos7338 The Hakko FX-888D is a great soldering iron for setting up an electronics workbench. I'd go for that over the Weller!

Ive got the same gun. I always stare at the temp to make sure its cooling down when it put it in the holder.

I think you got yourself a fake one. I live in China and have a genuine Yihua station. The fan is supposed to keep spinning when you place it back in the holder, only the heater should stop. Depending on the starting temperature, the fan should keep spinning for a couple of minutes until the sensor measures about 50 degrees C. Also: the plastic shell looks nearly identical but the inside of mine is completely different. The PCB is different and the magnetic sensors (there are multiple in mine) are not simply glued to the housing. The heating element is replaceable as well.

@igotes

5 жыл бұрын

It even has the "traditional assembly display retraction" as in Yihua's "how to spot a fake" guide shown at the start of the video.

@Wilson84KS

5 жыл бұрын

Yes, some of the handles have the same plastic for the shell over the hot part like the rest of the handle, but most have a different, heat resisting material.

Is the thermal couple working? I have one of these soldering iron dead years ago. That it for 5 years. Now you are making me think to upgrade. What is a reasonable chinese one just with hot air. Have Weller soldering stations and a royal ask a back up.

My Atten 858D+ v3.0 also does the same thing if I have it in my hand (fan and heating element are working) and then press the middle "store/call" button. The fan stops working and the temperature shoots through the roof, smoke included. Took me couple of seconds to realize what's going on so I quickly changed the temperature which caused the fan to start again. Firmware bug.

@BrucesWorldofStuff

5 жыл бұрын

I have a 853D 3 "N" 1 and it has done the same thing twice and I figured it out fast and turned down the temp. Also if I have the little end on it [3mm I think] and the fan is turned down all the way it overheats for a few seconds and the temp sensor backs it down. So now if I am going to turn down the fan I also turn down the temp and it evens out as the set point when first started...

Use tape to get up the small sparkly bits

*_Yeehaw 898D_*

The exact thing happened to my station (YIHUA 8786d). It's within warranty but they are not honouring the warranty. Will changing the fan solve the issue? .. I desoldered the fan and checked it ... It's not working..... Or is there a problem with the circuitry ?

Maybe a MCU brown out without a proper watchdog routine.

@Zadster

5 жыл бұрын

I think David nearly had a brown-out when the thing started to meltdown in his hand!

@davidledger5941

5 жыл бұрын

@@Zadster Accurate

@gavincurtis

5 жыл бұрын

Wouldn't suprise me one bit. Hastily compiled chinesium grade lazy slack-ware is in everything. 32K bloatware just for the SPI interface driver..... 5,458 clock cycles to execute 1 instruction. Embedded windows on an ARM chip to blink 1 LED... Use an external A/D converter because the slackware compiler tool couldnt use the internal A/D....

19:23 this fan is bldc, it have own driver on board. You can't verify it like that!

@404Anymouse

5 жыл бұрын

bldc wouldn't register as open

@DVXCine

5 жыл бұрын

I have a few of those fans ... They do not show impedance.

@SteveMasonCanada

5 жыл бұрын

I was yelling that at the screen when Dave came back and said it measured open. Surely he could plug it into a bench supply and verify.

@jumilifyify

5 жыл бұрын

Wait, can anything show as an open circuit and still do something when fed 5 V?

@danmoos3635

5 жыл бұрын

@M Rios Say that red wire goes to the gate of a controlling mosfet, or some sort of cmos input.

Could it be possible there is a malfunction with the Triac? Don't know much about them, but wow, surprising it failed like that. Terrible!

@MrZANE42

5 жыл бұрын

That would be my guess also. Testing the fan should also have been done by applying power to it instead of measuring it's resistance. I don't think that's a valid test if it's brushless for example, or if there's a diode in series with power input

@EEVblog

5 жыл бұрын

There are several possibilities like that. They are usually pretty robust though.

@Maverickx89

5 жыл бұрын

I put my bet onto it too.

@EEVblog

5 жыл бұрын

That doesn't explain the failed fan though. Bit of a coincidence to get a TRIAC and fan failure at the same time, unless the fan failure caused the TRIAC failure somehow (I don't see the opposite happening)

@Agent24Electronics

5 жыл бұрын

My first guess was that the heater control triac went shorted, but if the fan had indeed failed then perhaps it's something else. If the fan died first, then my theory is that once it failed, there was no airflow to keep the thermocouple 'updated' with the real heater temperature for some time, thus the software did not notice any significant change and did not reduce the duty cycle. Because of this, the heater temperature increased very quickly. By the time the thermocouple tracked the actual temperature of the heater by convection, the temperature value may have been so high (in software) that it was 'out of bounds' to what the program expected, and thus it (the program) did not know what to do or ignored it completely. I wouldn't be surprised if a badly written program with no sanity checking or edge-case testing caused the runaway condition following some hardware failure, but at the same time, I agree with Jimmy Pedersen, a simple resistance check on the fan isn't that conclusive, so maybe it really is just a shorted triac.

I have similar rework station atleast handle and heating element same identical.i just changed heating element end i have still no heating going.sorry for my english not my language.model is kraftdelle kd855 .maybe triac near element plug is faulty .i test multimeter on wires where heat element plug is no voltage but when random switch on off station voltage kind building up and drop.any help please

I sure hope that the white insulation material isn’t asbestos!

@DrakkarCalethiel

5 жыл бұрын

I'm curious what that material that is. I took out a thermal fuse out of my hot air gun and that stuff feels like some sort glass fiber

@DrakkarCalethiel

5 жыл бұрын

Ed Gein It is! If you google mica heater you get tons of results at alibaba

@mjouwbuis

5 жыл бұрын

It's mica. A naturally occuring mineral just like asbestos, but the flakes are quite different in shape compared to asbestos and aren't known as carcinogenic. Since it's so flaky, it isn't usually used as a wrapper. It may have been reinforced.

@valerionappi7839

5 жыл бұрын

Looks like mica + glass fiber to me

@One-Crazy-Cat

3 ай бұрын

According to my book it’s a mica wrap. I have a spare heating element. It says do not remove mica wrap to avoid short circuits.

Not appreciating the highly engaging thumbnails.

@Tangobaldy

5 жыл бұрын

He gotta do it to draw in people who love click bait. The thumbnail is on the verge of breaking KZread's rules as you never see a solder station on fire. If I wasn't subbed I would have never watched this video. I did skip most of it as I knew it was a video about something broken and speculating what went wrong rather than finding out. Can't please us all. Tangobaldy

@EEVblog

5 жыл бұрын

Anything else you'd like to complain about while you're at it?

@mipmipmipmipmip

5 жыл бұрын

@@EEVblog I'm subscribed to this channel for probably more than 5 years now. Thank you for your honest interest in my concise and constructive feedback.

@uK8cvPAq

5 жыл бұрын

Lab needs more females.

@xenonram

5 жыл бұрын

Tough shit.

This is a shame, because I was really looking at getting one of these. I absolutely love my TS100 and I have no problem using it as my main iron, it's displaced my need for a soldering station, but I need a hot air rework station, and I figure I might as well get a soldering iron in the mix as well, especially if it uses Hakko tips. Any budget stuff you *would* recommend?

U have question any idea about kkmoon 858d 700w?? I think it's better than this or am wrong

I could not see in the video checking the fan motor with a 24v supply. So how can you be so sure it failed?

Does the thermocouple only detect well when there is air flowing over it - ie the fan is going!

What I do with mine (different unit entirely but still ebay) is once it starts ramping down, I turn off its power switch on the unit. Just in case you know?

Is it possible to put some kind of alarm circuit on the fan that would light an LED or trip a piezo so you know?

Thanks for an interesting post mortem! Just a tiny note from an ex cable manufacturer: Quite unlikely that you would find 8 strand wires. The geometries favor 1 center & 6 around, which equals 7. The next one, used for more flexible wires would be 19 strands, (1+6+12).

It seems the triac or whatever is driving the triac failed. That's why the reed switch responded and turned off the fan and the temperature feedback sensor couldn't turn off the element. They should include a physical thermal cutoff switch near the element to prevent this.

Never leave the area when this tool cools down, keep an eye and an ear on it, a nice trick is to slightly increase the fan speed, and it should cool down more rapidly. Great tool for the price. I also often rotate the tool until i see temperature decreases...

Faults pretty clear to me. The thermocouple is a good 10mm away from the element wire. When the fan blew, there was nothing but convection and conduction to move hot air past thermocouple; it was no longer being forced past. This would make it take a reasonably long time for the thermocouple to register the true temperature of the element, certainly longer than it took for heat to conduct through that thin insulation and the metal can. Looks like they needed a separate thermal cut out in closer proximity to the element to catch an overheating scenario with no airflow

@squee222

5 жыл бұрын

This sounds most likely to me.

@ligius3

5 жыл бұрын

It would have stopped heating the element as soon as it got to the temperature. The sensor is not that far away so the effect would have been a slow melt-down instead of a burn-down. At least that's what I can figure from the witness' recollection. I'm betting on a software error as hinted by some other commenter above.

@Wilson84KS

5 жыл бұрын

On point, there is still heat but ghe difference to set temperature is huge, definitly high enough go keep on heating, the most perfect solution would be a thermocouple within the heating element and an airflow sensor, but a second TC would be enough, if there is a max temp set for it in the firmware.

I had the same one for 8 years or so. A month ago, I picked up the soldering iron, and I could see it was glowing a dull red and I could feel the heat radiating a foot away. Dumpstered it and got the pace one you reviewed. It was quite an upgrade.

The way the thermal sensor is placed, without air blowing through, how accurate would be the sensor? Circulation and conducting are minimal, so the only major heat transfer would be radiance, right? Could take a while to heat the coupling up enough to trigger a shutdown.

Could it be that the fan motor itself went bad? I'm surprised this has happened, since I have an identical unit which I've been using for over 10 years, yet haven't had a problem with it. The reed switch is a bit finicky, so care must be taken when putting the heating head back on the cradle.

So as I am considering one of these as a hobby station for occasional use, the build quality of this seems sufficiently good. A fan burning out after 3 or 4 years of substantial use doesn't seem to be a show stopper, especially if one turns the unit off at the switch rather than flapping the red hot thingy around in mid air while wondering wtf to do, haha.

@momoware

2 жыл бұрын

These companies are tested daily by corner repair shops in China. They have to have some quality to survive the market.

Are there any reliable budget rework station for like 200 euro or something? Do i get something for that price?

My school outfitted their lab with 853D's (which feature the same heatgun, etc. + power "supply") I've seen a few of them meltdown in a similar manner. There's a software bug (in the 853Ds we had) : if you keep cycling it between active/holstered in a short amount of time the processor locks up and stays in a random-state {(fast) heating up, steady w/ fan, cooling off, off}. The workaround was to listen for the fan to shut off on holstering. If immediate then switch the unit off then on again, and don't leave anything heat-sensitive where the holstered heat gun is pointing. (Was actually convenient when shrink wrapping stuff.) OFC with sixty hot airguns to choose from, this wasn't a serious issue, unlike the input filters starting smoldering fires because of an inappropriate component choice(?) Those all got replaced/retrofitted before being installed so I can only guess what the TI changed.

@ligius3

5 жыл бұрын

That would be a good info to put into the 898/853 thread on the eevblog forum. A lot of the people have studied all the variants and started doing mods to make them safer.

I wonder how close this model is to the Xtronic 6040? They look near identical. I know i had this exact problem with the air gun on the Xtronic 5040-xr3, but i chalked it up as improper use because it was in a unmonitored student lab at at my university. Where some thought you melted the wires to solder something.

Heat regulation keeps the output at a set temperature, if the fan fails the output temp stays the same but there is no cooling air to protect the plastic from melting. The heat which is normally carried away finds it way back to the plastic housing. Seems like a second temp sensor would be a good safety feature.

@toddberg3892

5 жыл бұрын

Harman Robotics Even some type of sanity check of the output duty vs sensed temperature- if output is too low, poor airflow is suspected, alarm and turn off output...

@dimitris_verlis

5 жыл бұрын

Or a thermal switch in the resistor for overheat protection

@GeneralPurposeVehicl

5 жыл бұрын

OR JUST PUT THE DAMN SENSOR NEXT TO THE HOT COIL INSTEAD HAVING IT 25 MILES AWAY. (Black insulation can keep your isolation.)

do any product connect N and ground? here both is live so that will be catastrophic.

7:10 because red color means where electrons are flowing from.... duh everyone knows that electrons are blue

Bucket of Sand. It's old school but a bucket of sand is great for electronics fires like Dave had and it's not as much of a commitment as breaking out the fire extinguisher.

On my YiHUA 898 D+, when cradled the blower stays on until the temperature is below 100 and orientation doesn't matter. Features that Davids did not seem to have.

How come the fuse is rated so high? Could they be using a 220v transformer on 240v running it into saturation?

"Input fused. There you go Weller." Shots fired.

18:50.. Since so many of us have one of these WEP rework stations... why not get a functioning one and put it through some possible error conditions to see where it will/may fail ??? Then find a solution to the fail so what happened to David won't burn down our homes. Just quickly looking at it I can see adding a parallel reed switch to the opposite side of the hand held unit and perhaps a Thermal cutoff switch right at the element supply. BTW.. my 858D has been working flawlessly for the past 4 years.

What diference does it make if it is soldered instead of crimped i for one Would take soldered over crimped any day the fan wiring is fairly standard style for a tiny 12 volt fan look at any computer or anything thathas small fans like that same wire

David and Dave, well now you have a transformer for that Weller. WEP and Weller colab. 😂😂😂😂

@wolvenar

5 жыл бұрын

Wrong voltage (s) out of this one I believe.

@wolvenar

5 жыл бұрын

But it DOES have a primary fuse. LOL

@vincei4252

5 жыл бұрын

@@wolvenar IKR 😂

I do wonder if there may be something wrong with the position of the thermocouple. Because the way it is mounted it may just look at the temperature of the air around it, and not the temperature of the heating element. So if tried to keep the temperature of the air but if there is no airflow (if the fan breaks or ...), then it would overheat the element and still think that the temperature of the element is ok.

Weller : Fuses are overrated. Meh. WEP : Meh. Over-rate the fuse.

@joeds3775

3 жыл бұрын

Oh my god..... now i understand trump..

yeah this might be a joke but that leaves the question then, what is weller?

The station I have right now is similar to this one, but when the handle is but back into the holder it instead turns the airflow to the max (in addition to turning the heating off), so I guess they have at least attempted to give it a better chance of survival...

You two gave me really good laugh, I wish there will be more videos of this kind :)

I'm glad this video came out. I was given this soldering station (US version) as a gift a year or so ago and once had a similar problem occur. I had the fan on the lowest setting with the most restrictive nozzle on the hot air gun and the temperature skyrocketed to I think 550 degrees C while it was just preheating. Thankfully I caught it before it could get any hotter as I had the unit resting on a wooden table. I currently don't have the money to buy a new soldering station but am wondering if it would be possible to add in a toggle switch in the heat gun to manually toggle the element off when I want it to cool off.

Well and truly wellered.

@volvo09

5 жыл бұрын

Well said

Here's a wild idea: could the reed switch have become partially-magnetized? I've seen it happen with burglar alarm door magnetic reed switches, move a magnet past metal enough times and it picks up a little magnetic charge. Maybe a combination of that and a lack of a firmware failsafe lead to an isolated occurrence?

I've got one of the similar model (YiHUA 8786D I believe) for my first year in college. Back then it only cost me ¥200(~$30) or so for both a rework and a soldering station, which was quite an affordable price for amateur student hobbiests like me. The station works pretty fine for a year, before I decided to go 'professional' and bought a ¥150(~$22) standalone T12 soldering station. But the rework function of that YiHUA model is still used until now, which helps me get through a great amount of troubles in the past year without any failure, and that magnet is actually very sensitive and reliable. One thing I've noticed is the temperature sensor on the airgun is not directly mounted to the heating element, which is quite reasonable because it is supposed to measure the heat of the airflow, not the heater. That means it requires the heat to transfer through the air gap before the sensor can sense it, and with the absence of airflow the heater can heat up dramatically before the sensor reach the target temperature. Another thing is that the airgun still blow air to cool down after it is placed back onto the holder, which means it is very easy to spot a fan failure at the scene, and you probably don't want to leave things like this working away from the scene. Anyway, you get what you pay for, don't expect too high on a cheap model, otherwise the producer won't get enough profit to survive.😉

A thermal fuse inside the housing would have saved it from melting, along with a software change and you're good to go. All David needs is a new hot air gun, a thermal fuse and you'll have it up and running in no time. I think they designed it to be pointing down when in the cradle which isn't very ergonomic, next one, cover the cradle in magnets.

Often the fan in mine doens't turn on when I remove it from the stand, but the element does.

My auto shut of is starting to fail I put it on the holder a few times and had to keep playing with before it starting to work again.you can by replacement heat blowers on Ebay ,I may have to do that or replace the whole unit.

Shouldn't there also be a last-resort one-off thermal fuse to kill power to the element if the handpiece goes above its operating range? I think they include them on electric kettles and things like that, with something like two springs joined by a blob of temperature-specific alloy.

software glitch after being left running for hours?

Where does it start spewing flames?

Hi Dave, Sounds like you had fun having a sidekick in the studio. Fun! :)

Might it be that without airflow the thermocouple doesn't get enough heat, since it is so far away from the heating element, causing the regulator to shoot up?

I had almost exactly the same thing happen a few months ago. Same WEP brand. It was an air-only model. I set it on the cradle, and a few seconds later I heard a POP and my lights flickered. I looked over, and the whole metal part of the blower was orange hot. I am absolutely sure that the fan was still running. I hit the power switch immediately and unplugged the unit from the wall. There was no smoke or flame. I took the handle apart and there wasn't any noticeable damage to anything. There was a small spot up on the metal casing that *looked* like the heating element had shorted and created a weld. I took the chance and tried turning it on again in a safe location. The fan ran but the heater did not come on. "Fortunately" mine was only a couple weeks old and I was able to return it to Amazon for a refund. Looking in forums afterwards, I read some of the best advice for these: It's good for the price but only use it in the middle of your driveway with a fire extinguisher handy.

SCR went short hence the thermal control was lost. Also the fan has control electronics and cannot be measured as a coil..

the fan does not stop when its on the cradle until it reaches 100 degrees so he should have known something was wrong as soon as the fan stopped and the degrees had not counted down

Hey Dave, here in Argentina we have the same plugs as you Aussies, and I wonder if in there you use the same wiring as here, which happens to be the same as in Germany? (Green: Earth, Blue: Live, Brown: Neutral)

@kalmdwn7711

3 жыл бұрын

Blue neutral

No air flow over the heaters to pass by the thermocouple can throw it off thinking it is cooler than it really is. The control box just keeps calling heat.

I am thinking of rewiring of my 858D. Mains switch should physically cutoff power from the heating element. I know, it means using larger switch. I have 858D for six years and have no problems, but I ran into similar issue with same optocoupler (optotriac) used here, which sometimes (and I do not know why) turns on and stays on despite the fact that diode part of it is unconnected and stays in this weird state until the triac side is disconnected. Then it returns to normal. It's rare, but it happens. I am using central switch to cutoff everything on my table, so the soldering station is most of the time disconnected from the AC, but it's not good feeling to know that there is only silicon switch (with weird optocoupler) between AC and heating element.

I have the Atten branded one. As soon as you put the handle down, the reed switch cuts the power to the heating element and the fan keeps blowing until the elements goes down to 100 C and then stop. So even with a fan failure, overheating of the element cannot be explained as it gets no power when the handle is down. It would just take more time to cool off.

Unfortunately, as we have seen recently, buying a premium brand is no guarantee of safety or reliability. They all seem to rely on one component in the protection system. If that fails then you are stuffed.

What happened to this hot air station? Will it work again?

that happen to mine 2 days after i bought now cant get it to work anymore as hot air station bought an bakko handle that seemsto be a bit better doesnt work checked the wiring and it shows S-E on the hot air screen..heeeellllllpppppp

I had the same unit for ages, the fan on mine stopped working within a few years. I simply replaced it with a better quality fan. I since upgraded and gave the unit to a family friend. Who to the best of my knowledge still uses it.

@unom5579

2 жыл бұрын

when the fan on yours stopped working, did the plastic melt down like the one in the video? what replacement fan did you use?

Did you test the reed switch?

I have a model 855D and mine has the soldering iron heat gun and a variable voltage supply. I bought it new off ebay for $89 and have used it the last 6 months and have had no problems whatsoever. It's possible to get a Lemmon every so often.

I also have a 898D from another company, and one of the greatest dangers of those devices, is that they will start when removed from the holder, EVEN IF YOU SHUT THEM DOWN FROM THE CONTROL PANEL. And by the way, mine had no information sheet whatsoever to tell ma about this magnetic switch behaviour - which made me thing first that it had spurious restarts until I realised it was when I removed it from the holder...

I have a no name version of this and so far over the last few months it has worked great. I do only use the hot air for heat shrink though.

Dave, the Quick 857DW+ is a really nice hot air station, much better than the 898D. It is roundabout 110 USD. It would be a nice addition to the lab for sure.

@EEVblog

5 жыл бұрын

I have one, as does David2

@davidledger5941

5 жыл бұрын

@@EEVblog Indeed :)

@xhivo97

5 жыл бұрын

@@EEVblog You have the 861DW, which is a beast of a station but 3x the price of the 857DW+. I highly recommend it to anyone on a budget.

@LaughingBuffaloes

5 жыл бұрын

They have a newer model now too, the Quick 957DW+, which I was able to pick up from tequitment for $95. I've been really happy with it for my needs.

@ArthursHD

5 жыл бұрын

I Have Quick 861DW but BST 863 looks very similar to it and is significantly cheaper, on a plus side it has IEC14 connector for power instead of attached power cable. Would it go on fire since it is cheaper? Cause this one was quite interesting.

My OKI brand hot air rework station had a plastic part holding the metal heating tube in the handle. It melted and broke so I machined up a new aluminium part which has proved to be the duck's nuts. The part holds the tube below where the heating element is located so when the air is flowing all will be ok. When you turn off the station, the air continues to flow for some time to cool the metal tube. I think mine was stopped a few times before the air timeout and this proved fatal as it lets the hot element heat the tube which melts the plastic parts lower in the handle. I'm going to pull mine apart again and see if I can increase the air timeout. Not really related to the problem above, but something to watch for...

There will have been significant heat build up after hours of use and the fans probably cut out too soon. I set mine to minimum flow when I put it back so that the heat has more time to dissipate from right inside of the thing. A fast fan flow would cool the surfaces and then shut down with more heat to be released.

was that fibreglass?....or asbestos?? being that close to the element it couldnt be fibreglass, it would catch fire.... ....hope that vacuum has a good filter :/

If you buy one of these make sure you inspect it internally before using it they're hit & miss assembly wise

So the fuse needs to be swapped out for a lower value? Did the user place the hot air gun incorrectly back into its holder? , I wouldn't have know that there was a particular way to place the wand back into its holder.

I wonder why there is no thermal fuse to be found, though.

@iuri.castro

5 жыл бұрын

Probably cost reduction

@JacGoudsmit

5 жыл бұрын

@@iuri.castro They could have done with fewer connectors on that PCB to reduce cost

@mattmoreira210

5 жыл бұрын

@Iuri Castro but those things cost 50 cents tops, even cheaper in volume. I don't see how having a thermal fuse could impact revenue significantly...

@phuang3

4 жыл бұрын

Well, the entire handle is the fuse. When it melts down you buy a new one. It's dirt cheap in China.

Isn't thermocouple just too far away from heating element? When no air is flowing, then I guess just part of heat will get to thermocouple. It would be great if there was some kind of pressure (air flow) sensor like in industrial gas burners - when fan fails, solenoid shuts off gas inlet.

More like a "Smol-dering Station", am I right?!?

I have the same Yihua board based station. I've seen some stations burned by the triac, that's why I never leave the handle on the holder when the hot air switch is on. When I turn the hot air switch off its cools down also, but the switch is turns off the heater physically, not through the triac, that's why I'm sure my station won't be burned like this. I was thinking to put some additional relay protection in the station, which can switch the heater off when the fan is stopped, but I don't think I really need this now.

I have an identical unit; like it a lot although I don't run it hard for hours. The temperature sensor wire in the handle detached and the unit failed safe - the fan kept running even though the heating element turned off. It just kept running long after I put it in the cradle (the magnetic switch tells the fan to keep running until it cools to 100 degrees, and also shuts the heater off). Not sure what happened to your unit. When mine had a sensor fault it kept the fan running. After I reattached the wire, everything went back to normal. Maybe your unit has older firmware?

It's obvious based on David's description. He said the fan cut off, but not the heater. The fan is not supposed to stop when placed in the holder. It only stops when the temperature drops below a level, like 100 degrees. This means the fan failed, or a fault in the circuit providing power to the fan. The reason it overheated is because the reed switch was not activated so the heater remained on. The temperature sensor position measures the hot air blowing over it. Without the air blowing, there would be a huge temperature difference between the heater and the sensor.

Just remember to put the heat gun fan face downwards when you put it in the the holder then it will air cool and turn off, if you put it in fan face upwards its still runs and at the temperature you set it at.