In this episode of EarthWiseTV Jerald Larson explains the correct way to prune a pear tree. See below for detailed instructions:
Pear Tree Pruning Guidelines
By: Jerald Larson, Retired CEA
FVSU Extension Program
East Central Georgia

1. Keep your tools clean and sharp for easier, cleaner cuts to promote stronger healing.
2. When choosing a hand pruner and lopper, the bypass blade design gives a closer and cleaner cut compared to the anvil blade.
3. Avoid leaving stubs, which heal poorly, by pruning close to the branch collar or bud.
4. Make each cut with less effort, by pushing the tool in all the way.
5. When sawing a branch, always undercut first.
6. Choose and flag the permanent branches, commonly called scaffold branches. Follow a spiral staircase pattern, starting about 36” off the ground and then moving up the truck about every 30”, while moving around the trunk 1/3 of the way, for the 2nd to the 6th scaffolds.
7. Cut back or remove each temporary branch during the first 5 years.
8. Prune each scaffold branch by starting at its terminal shoot and moving down to the right and to the left sides. Growth should be directed out, and up or down, by pruning to a specific shoot or bud.
9. To develop a pyramid tree shape for sun exposure, the lowest scaffold is maintained as the largest, and each succeeding one is kept proportionately smaller.
10. Pear and apple trees should be maintained at 12-15 ft., if possible, by using a pole pruner. Also use a pole picker to facilitate fruit harvesting.
11. Beginning in the first year, use branch spreaders made of dry bamboo, metal or wood, to get an ideal angle of 60 degrees from the trunk.
12. Summer pruning of strong suckers should be done at least during the first 5 years. At the same time do careful pruning for fireblight.